DIY 3c fe engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself 3c fe engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

12/30/08 00:11 AM Reply to the message, an approximate estimate of the overhaul of the 3S-FE user Champ

12/30/08 01:42 AM Reply to post Re: approximate estimate of 3S-FE user overhaul Konstantin_086

I do not regret anything
Donkey foundation, strong house

12/30/08 01:48 AM Reply to post Re: approximate estimate of 3S-FE user overhaul Fox

Mercedes-Benz
Das Beste Oder Nichts (c) Daimler

12/30/08 02:13 AM Reply to post Re: approximate estimate of 3S-FE user overhaul Board 247

I do not regret anything
Donkey foundation, strong house

12/30/08 02:18 AM Reply to post Re: approximate estimate of 3S-FE user overhaul Fox

Mercedes-Benz
Das Beste Oder Nichts (c) Daimler

12/30/08 01:50 PM Reply to post Re: approximate estimate of 3S-FE user overhaul Fox

Toyota Sprinter Carib AE111-Sold

30.12.08 16:00 Reply to message Re: approximate estimate of overhaul of 3S-FE user Melord

if I'm not mistaken, then 5S differs from 3S only in cubature and the presence of a balancing shaft.
Those. 35t.r. - is this the full cost of the issue?
Not much, in my opinion.

As for the contract, I have nothing against it, but I personally would not set a contract for myself and I do not advise the afftor:
1. It is necessary to issue
2. Lottery (albeit with a high chance of winning)

12/30/08 06:47 PM Reply to post Re: approximate estimate of 3S-FE user overhaul smythe

12/30/08 18:53 Reply to post Re: approximate estimate of 3S-FE overhaul of the user Board 247

12/30/08 07:10 PM Reply to message Re: approximate estimate of 3S-FE user overhaul smythe

Video (click to play).

August capital. year 2013.
It all started with the fact that it was decided in a circle to replace all the oil seals on the engine and box.
Accordingly, all this must be removed from the car.
Begin.

Dalle was followed by the removal of the engine directly with the box together. I decided to take it out through the bottom, because I don't have a winch in this garage.
Drain off antifreeze, dextron and oil.

well, slowly throwing off all attachments.

With the help of two jacks and securing with a sling, I gently lower the engine down. The technique is new for me, and has never been tested, came to mind by chance, but it worked.

After that, I opened the pan of the box to change the filter and quietly precipitated. The filter that was standing was broken, this was hinted at by a dent on the pallet, someone kissed them well. After opening the filter itself, it turned out that the mesh was also torn and the box was fed with dirty slurry. The magnets in the pan were ground into trash. Replaced with new original ones, the filter was naturally also replaced, the pallet was straightened and painted. For beauty)) and not him alone))

Let's continue.
Further description of the repair.

Types of magnets ground into the trash, the impact of the pallet on something was solid, the magnets smashed against the giblets of the box. Along the way, damaging the filter and breaking its mesh.

Of course, the filter was replaced, I also straightened the pan and painted it, replaced the ground magnets with new ones.

After that, I replaced all the oil seals with the original ones.

In general, the purpose of the repair was also to replace the thundering camshafts. To do this, I had one more engine in stock, but the 3S-FE, as it turned out later, its intake camshaft was not suitable for my 1.8, I had to assemble it on my own back.

Along the way, I decided to open the crankshaft journals and fell into a stupor for the second time. What a bastard drove before me! So ditch the engine and with all this it did not knock! The light didn't blink. And he was still not badly driven, the compression after decarbonization was 13-12.5-13-13.2.

Naturally, it was decided to sharpen and I attended to the search for normal taykhovsky inserts. As a result, all this made the repairs more difficult by 5,000 rubles.
The shaft was bored, the liners were hard to find. I also ordered the crankshaft half rings and replaced the pair, the longitudinal play of the crankshaft was eliminated.

Along the way, having suffered with washing the valve cover and intake manifold, I decided to paint them. Well, the engine sump to boot, since the paint and soil still remained))

Subsequently, I did not regret that I painted them, because earlier it was something to wipe off the sludge and dirt stuffed into the pores of aluminum, but now I wiped it clean with a cloth.The engine is much more pleasant to wash, and the view is better.

The renovation cost a pretty penny, but it was worth it. One thing is insulting at that moment I did not have enough money for the full capital, but I had to, as it turned out, in six months.
Almost all repairs were made in one piece. Help was required only when installing the engine with the box back.
But now the engine is installed and the moment has come to start ... but the distribution shafts are standing from the kopeck piece and the engine does not even want to grab, and it was then that my mistake became clear. The intake camshaft from the kopeck piece with cams per centimeter is almost more than 1.8, although visually the same. In parallel, comparing the graduation, I found that he was a tooth behind mine. I had to put back my own, which are weakened by 0.19-0.22 ares and thunder very loudly. But there was no way out, after the replacement the car started up with half a kick.
Here's what happened in the end.

The car passed six months rattling with camshafts like a thin diesel engine. Only by February I found the money and the contract head, along the way I decided to change the rings.

Now about replacing rings and replacing the cylinder head.

In February, already in 2014, I decided to change the rings and the block head, as usual myself.
attaching photo.
To begin with, I audited the purchased "contract" head, in this regard, the legendary Japantrek once again legendarily fucked me up. The head, according to them, "statischnehodila" turned out to be with bent valves on the fourth release. To hell with him, valves in bulk at the very, but the attitude and frank shit turned away forever. Now I can't even buy bolts and nuts there, there are enough other suppliers that are sober, adequate and not greedy. To be honest, hell would have been led, but at that moment I could not find more heads, but it was necessary urgently.

Of course, I understood that I had not bought a new one, but the price of 4500 for such was too high. But there was no choice, at the moment everything is fine, two years later.
after he took his head off his engine and examined the piston

I did not manage to photograph everything, but the new original rings rose to the maximum gap in the lock.
I ground the head and changed the caps, also for the original ones. Now, two years later, I can say that everything is working fine.
By the way, I immediately replaced the Mitsuboshi timing belt with the original one, because the latter stretched out for six months of operation, the tensioner no longer pulled it. The original one still runs and raises no objections.

Immediately replaced the candles with the original Denso, waited with an auka, brought a friend. Second year without any complaints, let's see what happens this winter.

I immediately changed the clamps to the original, the antifreeze snot disappeared as if by magic, before that there was screw-Chinese crap.

well, the filter is also an analogue of the original, I put it on for the third time, the light goes out immediately after starting, which was not the case when installing any others up to VIC

Well, in the process of already six months of operation, I can note:
The machine has stopped eating oil. Applies to Mobile and Shell. Filled it by accident and I regret it Eneos 10W40, for 8000 mileage a level was eaten and 2 liters of topping up, and the liter is not mine, I found it in my brother's garage.
Now I flooded it again. It was 0W40 Pure Plus, the flight was normal, my wife went to the region, the level was in place.
Moreover, there was never any smoke, Eneos burns out by itself and cokes the engine, as I was convinced of a month ago when I washed the fuel system, a photo and a report later.
In general, it took me 35,000 for the entire overhaul of the engine, this includes all fluids, oil in the engine, in the box, in the power steering, in the cooling system and brake. Rosneft poured the best, Rosneft ran it in, then Mobil 2000, took it out to the ATF Type T-IV box normally, only TCL was used for cooling and brakes. The car is apparently grateful to this day, it does not break down at all. I love and respect her, she reciprocates.
Well, that's all for now, if something interests you, ask questions, I will answer if possible.

Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]

Message FISHKI »Apr 21, 2016 4:14 pm

I got the engine, mileage under 300 thousand. A friend set himself a contract soldier, and gave mine to me for experiments.at the beginning I had the idea to take off his head, give it to the office that deals with them, change the guides, valve seats, maybe the valves themselves, well, capitalize it and put it on myself. but yesterday I thought to take it off and put my head on, my engine will still be removed, maybe it’s easier to power up the entire engine and then transfer it to my car? at least it will be faster, in the sense: removed-put. there will be no need to remove the engine, throw your head over, put the engine on. our cars are absolutely the same, that is, the engines are 100% compatible. while the first problems. the primer incorrectly describes the procedure for removing the camshafts. and the first question is how to install them back correctly?

like the marks were put with paint, but there is a feeling that the cams were not in this position.
while the task is to capitalize the head, and then the block.
I will be glad to any advice. what to do, where to look, what to look for?
p.s. head bolts 12-sided at 12. at the beginning they bought at 11, then at 13. by eye they determined

p.p.s I hope the topic will be useful to descendants

Message AndrSib »Apr 21, 2016 10:02 pm

Message FISHKI »Apr 21, 2016 10:40 pm

Message 38NOAH »Apr 22, 2016 02:03 am

Message Drozdov Vladimir »Apr 22, 2016 6:07 am

Message Qigan »Apr 22, 2016 08:39 am

Message FISHKI »Apr 22, 2016 10:14 am

well, just got the engine for free so to speak. I wanted to change my head on my own. there is a suspicion that there is a problem in it. the gas has already passed 140 thousand. and somewhere I heard that after 100 thousand, the valves burn out. maybe a myth, of course. but I have had a bad start for a long time after idle time. you have to turn the starter for a few seconds until it picks up. at first sinned on the fuel system. but the fuel pump, check valve, injectors have already been changed, nothing has changed. I even tried to turn on the gas pump at first in order to build up the pressure in advance, it does not help. I sin on my head. Well, if you really shoot and watch it, it seems to me easier to bring the already existing, removed head to mind and just throw it over.

I'm not an auto mechanic) I was very limited in time and in a budget) what I wanted I achieved. completely removed oil consumption and reduced fuel consumption by an order of magnitude. do not scold too much, I really wanted to shoot more material, it turned out the way it turned out)

Nice video helped. Thank you.

how to repair the oil pump

this one yes. a lot of work has been done, interesting and informative. I'm thinking whether or not to change the valve seals (oil eats, 3S), the compression seems to be normal. Previously, he himself changed the timing belt 6 hours, and this shoe near the timing belt is still the same crap. Thank you, I wish you success in everything.

Normas, I'm still not going to sort out my internal combustion engine.

Hello, I also disassembled such an internal combustion engine and also forgot the bolt on the cocked gear in the parking lot and tore my timing belt well, the old belt was

in vain did the grinder cut the pillow, it is from two parts the pillow itself and the aluminum crust combine the two parts as they should stand and it goes there like clockwork

The author of the video did not show how he compared old rings with new ones, because they are exactly the same, there is no wear. The gaps in the ring locks are measured by pushing the ring into the cylinder approximately in the middle of the working area.

As planned in the winter, it just got warmer, the bulkhead began to move. At the same time, I change all the racks, rubber bands on the hodovka, I plan to rummage and install music (all the equipment has been lying since the summer after my old ED-hu was broken for me). Anyway.

Symptoms for disassembly: a large zhor of oil (1L X 1000 km.), Noisy operation of the engine, the right half of the engine looking towards the passenger compartment is wet, and at the end of the monstrous frosts this winter, the hydrach drove out all the liquid from the expander tank :-( Now, when pouring new slurry , it whines a little when cornering, and in maximum mode it just rings so easily. Although it seems to be white. I will say right away, I changed the valve seals in the fall, they were still nothing and it did not affect the oil consumption. I tried LAVR at the same time, I did not notice much of the result. It’s a pity I didn’t measure the compression.

Opened my head yesterday. What did I not see there! By the way, now I know for sure that it is easier to poke around on Markoobraznye with an engine. I'm not because we have it across it, but they have it longitudinally. He himself disassembled and capitalized the engines for the TAZ-08,09,11113. And he took part in the diesel bulkhead on the Mark. It's just that this engine has so many bells and whistles screwed to the intake manifold, and all the bolts are so inconvenient. And the collector itself, until you take off your head, is even more inconvenient to remove. Anyway. It's all over.

Coke is of course in the engine! By the way, I can show you a photo of what happened under the valve paint in the fall after I drove the car and what is there now, after using synthetics. what the valve cover looked like in the fall, how much crap I pulled out from under the cover in the fall, etc. Those who want to see what happened and what happened, you are welcome. The first 5 photos are from autumn. The rest are fresh. Then I'll post a comment for each.

In short, when pouring kerosene to check the valves, it turned out that a pair of inlet and one outlet were not held as expected. I decided to remove everything, clean it and grind it in. I will repeat the oil seals, I changed them.

True, I did not get to the pistons yesterday, I decided to finish off the head first. Today I think I will not have time, but tomorrow I will probably take it off. So the photos on the rings and pistons, as well as the reports will only be on Monday. It would be possible to bring a laptop with you, and connect through a mobile phone, but I think because of it my performance will drop. By the way, there is no development by touch and by eye, neither on the cylinders, nor on the valves! They say that when using gas, the valves burn a little at the edges. In my case, this was not noticed.

About phlegm. The photo shows that the right half of the intake manifold is wet, where a couple of pipes coming from the power steering pump fit. I have not yet figured out what kind of tubes they are and what their purpose is, but it seems to me that phlegm begins with them. Maybe I am mistaken. By the way, the gasket of the first nozzle has not yet been held, sputum was also found at the junction and further down the head. And it is very wet in the area of the power pump and the steering valve. It is difficult to understand what and where flowed from there. It is necessary to clean and wash everything.

About the catalyst. Look at the photo and tell me your opinion.

About the inlet pipe. The photo shows how much the ring covers the channel. Because of this, after all, the air does not get enough. How the computer fights against it. Perhaps because of this, my candles are black and the exhaust is soot?

Yesterday I cleaned the exhaust valves for a very long time. If I removed the carbon deposits on the inlet almost painlessly, then I had to suffer with the graduation. The carbon on them looked like a stone and was VERY difficult to cut off. More than once I had to sharpen my boot knife, I was dull. Now it remains to grind them. One started yesterday, I thought I would correct it a little, but there are barely noticeable ruts on the graduation bevels, I had to tinker a bit more. There are no such problems with inlet.

I could not make out the piston. I'll be there today. But with the head you need to think, antifreeze does not flow there, it's just that when removing the head, he ran anywhere. I plan to change it anyway, so I didn’t bother to drain it from the block. He did not run away anywhere during the period of exploitation. I haven’t tried the liquid on my tongue, but it’s normal, not “dry”. After all, in the winter and 54 endured without problems. And her density is normal. And to grind or not,. thought, this should be looked for where? And is it really necessary? Something inactive tips go in the branch.

In short, the valve was primed, put in place, immediately removed all the washers and rewrote their sizes (it will come in handy for future adjustments). I cleaned the pump of the hydrach. On disassembly, they advised against taking another, it is not known which one they will slip. If I will take it, it will be contractual. After we will see, maybe I will order.

When the pistons were removed, everything happened as expected. Namely, the compression rings were normal, but the oil scraper rings were stuck. Although, of course, when the rings were removed, the oil coke was under everyone.

By the way, I measured the old rings in the cylinders, and the annular gap was still within tolerance, i.e. about 0.90mm. But, we already have new ones! And in general, of course, coke was and is everywhere.Wherever I meet him, I fight him fiercely. Because of this, a lot of time is of course wasted. Wash, clean, scrub. But I will be sure of gratitude from the engine!

I went to the market on Saturday, bought a valve cover gasket, the old one broke when removed (hardened), new hydrach and generator belts. Tired of installing a new fuel filter! The previous filter (by the way, not the original, the previous owners saved, damn it on everything!) Also barely unscrewed. The carving is all broken, etc., in short a place for 10-15 minutes, it took almost 3 hours with it. By the way, I measured the head and there was absolutely no gap anywhere, therefore I will not sharpen it. It's the same with the block.

I continue to collect. Today I figured out the costs, they are impressive! Then the truth will have to be added, wheels, disks, although this somehow does not apply to repairs.

Alternator belt 500,00 rub.
Power steering belt 350,00 rub.
Valve cover gasket 450,00 rub.
Head gasket 1 400,00 rub.
Fuel filter 350,00 rub.
Oil filter 250,00 rub.
Compression rings 2 600,00 rub.
Crimping rings 265,00 rub.
Sealant 160,00 rub.
CV JOINT 1 200,00 rub.
Anthers racks 400,00 rub.
Probe 55,00 rub.
Front struts 3 780,00 rub.
Rear struts 5 144,00 rub.
Front brake pads 932,00 rub.
Rear brake pads 755,00 rub.
Oil in a box 920,00 rub.
Engine oil 680,00 rub.
total 20 191,00 rub.

So, yesterday, or rather tonight, I threw off the engine and started it at half past twelve! All is good, the gidrach does not make noise (although this is probably due to the fact that the car is still without wheels), the engine rustles, oil does not drive anywhere, antifreeze does not flow, BUT. Second injector leaks 🙁 At the junction with the fuel rail. Even when I put it, I noticed that somehow it was not tight that she stood up. He took it out, smeared it with sealant, waited until it dries up and put it on. I thought it would help. It did not help 🙁 Well, in order to avoid a rumble during work (as someone advised that this could be due to a loose belt), I pulled the strap. So today you will have to throw off the valve cover and deal with the injectors. And loosen the belt.

Disassembled again a little what was collected. It turns out to be not so much time to remove the injectors from the 3S-FE and it takes time. Maximum 20 minutes. Well, okay. In short, rubber bands from 2112 did not fit for any price. I have already tried to grind them with a sandpaper, and lubricate them with grease - not in any! Then he simply put them on top in front of the safety rubber bands, inserted the old ones and put everything in place. As a result, they removed that little gap between the rubber bands and the fuel rail, and the leak stopped!

I also loosened the strap. As I also found out as a result of a thorough examination, it can be weakened without removing the support and everything else. True, you still have to unscrew the top cover mounting bolts. Otherwise, the tension cannot be controlled. In short, I don't know about everyone else, but I have a hole above the bolt that clamps the tension roller. Here kill me I do not remember on the other ED-he was it or not. So, we dive there with a ring key and slightly loosen the bolt, press with our finger on the strap between the camshaft pulley and the pump. Pressing it a little, clamped the bolt, and joyful threw everything back. And then came that wonderful and slightly exciting moment of the first (though we can say that for me already the second) launch.

HOORAY! Mustache is in perfect order, chief! The engine rustles, from warming up to idle it falls so nicely, it takes your breath away! Previously, this process was more lengthy and, accordingly, annoying. The engine was already warming up, but he was somehow reluctant to throw off the revs. And now! It keeps the revs ideally 800, and not a cent more or less. (By the way, I adjusted the throttle body, the gap was not set there, and the valve of the XX frequency control system was just in the mud. Because of it, it did not block the air channel as expected)

Es-s-s-s-s-s! Nothing runs, knocks, rattles. The shaking of the engine also became noticeably less, and at idle it does not move at all. I drove the engine for about 3 hours, checked and refilled all oils and fluids. So it was drawn to the street, to ride. But, I already decided to do music. On which two more full days and nights were spent between them.On Friday I managed to bungle a subwoofer at work, I had already prepared the speakers in advance. True, this is a completely different story. There are also photographs, if someone is interested.

True, I never installed the gas ring. I decided to do something else and try to ride with a new one. While I will go on gasoline. The topic is described nearby, if anyone did not understand anything.

So gentlemen, my advice to you: do not worry about all sorts of decarbonization! If the engine eats oil in serious quantities, then surgery is indispensable. Moreover, you will understand not only the rings, but also with all the oil seals, rubber bands and gaskets. The engine will thank you very much for this! And it will delight you with quiet and reliable work.

P.S. I was very glad to all the interlocutors for their support and advice, I shake hands with everyone. Great respect to everyone! If I decide to add something, then don't scold me if this thread pops up again.

Below is the cost of all spare parts. Some were purchased through Exist, some locally. Some in advance, because if all at once, then it would significantly hit the family budget.
Alternator belt - 500,00 rub.
Power steering belt - 350,00 rub.
Valve cover gasket - 450.00 rub.
Head gasket - 1,400.00 rub.
Fuel filter - 350,00 rub.
Oil filter - 250,00 rub.
Compression rings - 2 600,00 rub.
Crimping rings - 265,00 rub.
Sealant - 160,00 rub.
CV JOINT - 1 200,00 rub.
Anthers of racks - 400,00 rub.
Probe - 55,00 rub.
Front stands (cartridges) - 3 780,00 rub.
Rear struts - 5 144,00 rub.
Front brake pads - 932,00 rub.
Rear brake pads - 755,00 rub.
Oil in a box - 1 380,00 rub.
Engine oil - 680,00 rub.
Valve grinding paste - 60,00 rub.
Antifreeze - 460,00 rub.
Oil pump gasket - 120.00 rub.
Distilled water - 40,00 rub.
Rubber bands for injectors (from VAZ 2112) - 20.00 rub.
Timing belt, 2 rollers - RUB 2,700.00
total: 24 051,00 rub.

I have 3Sfe and 3SGE
Well, at the autopsy, I found the following bully on the second cylinder in the printsepi, not very deep, I can barely feel it with a fingernail, so I thought maybe the piston could be taken from a gesh motor or would it not work?

What can be mixed up from two motors so as not to change the brains and the power was more and not 140 hp

Here is 3sfe with 183 seliki bodies with docks already registered
a 3sge with 202 bodies + yamaha without docks

the piston seems to have a little more
Ge's knee is different
other town halls?

Really on my block to put the cost of ge without wiring, but with the replacement of brains
Do the brains of the 202 body have different connectors?
do you need a flow rate? since I don't have it

The topic is open to what I want to do so that everything works and at a minimum cost
if you have any ideas, please write how you would do in this situation

Please do not flood and write all sorts of replicas tries it is also inappropriate.

Mega thank you all
Post has been edited by Spilberd: 04 December 2007 - 23:58

Yamaha separate from the motor? Do you just have a GE + separate head beams?

Heads for GE motors have always been made by Yamaha

What can be mixed up from two motors so as not to change the brains and the power was more and not 140 hp
Here is 3sfe with 183 seliki bodies with docks already registered
a 3sge with 202 bodies + yamaha without docks
the piston seems to have a little more
Ge's knee is different
other town halls?

Really on my block to put the cost of ge without wiring, but with the replacement of brains
Do the brains of the 202 body have different connectors?
do you need a flow rate? since I don't have it

who has a book on the 3sfe and 3sge engine, you can scan the sheets with the characteristics of the pistons of the rings in general of all sizes of KShM and timing
KShM crank mechanism
Timing gear gas distribution mechanism
The topic is open to what I want to do so that everything works and at a minimum cost
if you have any ideas, please write how you would do in this situation
Please do not flood and write all sorts of replicas tries it is also inappropriate.
Mega thank you all

Powder the whole business

Hello, are you going to leave the condo for yourself with the GE motor? If not, then share the compressor, otherwise mine is already coming to an end. Noises and the car does not go with him.

I will not sell within a month, since I have Kaldina and my swallow, first I find out in what state I have it all, and then I’ll think about selling, otherwise I’ll give it up and then I’ll look for it myself

Powder the whole business

let's leave the powder in that topic ok?

I know. That is why I clarify the head off a separate beams or not. bosses are different

the engine assembled with the Yamaha boss, by extreme measure, is written on the timing cover and the previous owner told me and there xs is not written on it itself, I would not be surprised that there is not a yamaha but something like xs or no name

What is it? Do you have suggestions?

there are only two engines, those that have everything for 3sfe attachments on the hot keys,
How can I solve the problem with lambda probes as I want to increase the output even without resonator catalysts, and so on, but with a can so that it is not very noisy
Post has been edited by Spilberd: 05 December 2007 - 22:49

a question of this kind do they have the same blocks? just on one block there is an oil filter on the bottom and on the second under the collector, I looked at Ge's shielding filter on the pallet and at the FE on the block and where I have a filter there is a metal round crap it is like nafg it is there

I can stick everything from GE into my block from FE

The second question is how to make everything work well for me at a minimum cost of two motors, I want everything to work without interruptions and there were about 180 forces, and then 140 is not enough for such a beautiful car, in general, as I understood, the people here are all in the form of riders and can help only one

such a question, can I put Bosko from Yamaha on my block? will the oil and water channels coincide?
Post has been edited by Spilberd: 07 December 2007 - 00:00

People, we decided to put the 3S-GE on the 202nd selik, on which the 3S-FE stood, to throw the towers - roughly speaking, and the collector.
The box is a handle, the usual one will remain, from the FE series engine - 54th memory does not change.
A question to the craftsmen or to strategists who have already suffered from such garbage - is it real? What is fraught with? And will there be serious problems? Will it give the same power as GE's brains, Has anyone already done this?

PS: the piston itself, at the same time, we want to refresh and delight with the pistons of the second repair, slightly squeezing the old cast iron from the walls
ZZY: I understand that GE's brains are intended for GE, and FE's are for FE, as well as that: a hammer is intended for driving in nails, and a sledgehammer is for driving stakes. But still, the question is - will it work, giving out normal power and does it not shine with something unpleasant for the engine itself?
Post has been editedimpish: 14 June 2011 - 03:01

Get over it. In addition to the head, there are still a lot of differences. JUST take off the FE head and put the SAME head off - it will not work))). Although if there is time for both PU and SAME vsebore - you can get perverted.
Putting on the SAME brains from PU with corresponding re-routing is quite realistic.we have the SAME with brains from PU. upon arrival with a phraseological unit - goes like a phraseological unit)).

For money, it is more expedient to put the SAME collection than to collect a kuynyu that will not go)))