DIY 3C engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself 3st engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]

Message Boykov Evgeniy »07 Oct 2015, 21:52

Message brembist »08 Oct 2015, 07:50

Message Bondina Sirje »08 Oct 2015, 10:52

Message brembist »08 Oct 2015, 11:09

Message Bondina Sirje »08 Oct 2015, 11:20

Message brembist »08 Oct 2015, 12:37

Message Bondina Sirje »08 Oct 2015, 15:43

Message kylibih »08 Oct 2015, 17:08

Message brembist »08 Oct 2015, 19:31

Message Boykov Evgeniy »08 Oct 2015, 23:09

Message Alex2009 »09 Oct 2015, 06:48

Message brembist »09 Oct 2015, 08:18

Message Bondina Sirje »09 Oct 2015, 11:47

Two is a piston group. The same two will be broken on the block. This does not concern you. This is when assembled at the factory. The collector sees what is punctured on the block and puts the piston of the same group into the cylinder. Groups can be distinguished by cylinders.
B is the finger group. For the collector. The identity no longer concerns you.

When repairing the engine, you will sharpen the cylinders under your pistons. And fingers or are included (as a rule). or you yourself will pick it up to your piston.

These groups are also punched for inserts. And if you put the original inserts, then it is better to order specifically for each neck. They are sold in pairs. But this is rarely done. And the non-original does not have groups and is sold as a set.

A page dedicated to car repair and operation

(Town Ace, Master Ace and Lite Ace, Hi Ace )

exhaust gas recirculation ( EGR )

It has long been known that our diesel fuel is far from world standards in many respects, nevertheless, our diesels have to feed what they have.

Video (click to play).

In this article, we will look at how to properly dismantle the afterburning and exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system so that through this pipe connecting the exhaust and intake manifolds through the valve in the actuator, soot is not thrown into the intake manifold, as well as residues from incompletely burnt fuel.

So, you can, of course, go in two ways, leave this tube, and come up with a metal asbestos gasket under the opening of the connection of the intake manifold with the actuator and pull it through the same bypass mechanism.

But the best thing is to abandon this thing, uprooting it as unnecessary and putting the manufactured or selected plugs on the hole in the exhaust manifold and inlet, putting a gasket of broomstick on the outlet and pulling it well with the same nuts through the studs, and on the intake manifold it will be enough paronite gasket, can be coated with a thin layer of sealant and a metal plug.

If you find on the disassembly of the intake and exhaust manifolds without these holes, then they can be twisted painlessly and that's it.

In more recent auto valve systems EGR will be automatically checked for the integrity of the coil and if you just leave the connector hanging unconnected, it can give out an error code of the recirculation system - here you can either leave the valve as a load, or select a resistance and load on the valve power circuit.

After such an alteration of the system, it will be easier for your diesel engine to breathe, somewhere there is an increased dynamics and a decrease in thrust dips, and there will be less shoe polish deposits in the intake manifold (from thickened oil with soot), which reduces the geometric parameters of the air manifold.

Added by (Dec 25, 2011 12:02 pm)
———————————————
Kolyamba, Something I did not find a topic about vacuum lines. Tomorrow I'll pick up the injection pump, put it on, see how it goes, and if anything, I'll try it with vacuum tubes.

no, he can not.
if the plunger pair is "covered" - then the engine would start very badly hot

and "worked loudly" - because the ignition was set early.

this crap is very simple:
when they “assembled” the high-pressure fuel pump, they “adjusted” it so that he began to blunt. small cyclic fuel supply.

PS
Did they take money for the work, repeated repair of this fuel pump or not?

Overhaul of an engine is a set of repair work of an internal combustion engine unit aimed at improving the condition of the entire engine as a whole. The word overhaul means that such a repair is serious, requiring good theoretical and practical knowledge. Also, work to improve the condition of the engine is called the internal combustion engine capital.

Overhaul is a complex of repair work related to the replacement of parts that cannot be repaired (mainly pistons, rings, gaskets) and the repair of parts that can be restored to factory condition. After overhaul, the engine restores its power performance indicators (power, compression, noiselessness and smooth operation). Unlike the current or unscheduled (this, for example, the washer fuse blows out or the rear window heating 2107 does not work), overhaul involves the repair of the entire engine, and not individual parts. Therefore, this type of work costs decently, requires experience, time and, preferably, a warm, well-lit garage, if the driver wants to make capital with his own hands.

Since the motor is the heart of the vehicle, it must be repaired in compliance with all rules and regulations, accuracy and skill.

Both gasoline and diesel engines burn out their resource after passing their assigned resource in engine hours (if the engine worked for 1 hour, this is 1 engine hour) or after running in thousands of kilometers.

You have to top up the engine oil, it goes somewhere.
Mechanical damage to the engine (crack in the block).
The compression in the cylinders is below the permissible level.
Continuous smoke from the muffler is blue or gray (dark gray) thick in large quantities.
Knocks are heard (this could be the earbud twisted, etc.).
The car does not pull as before, especially uphill.
When checking the candles, they are constantly dirty, with carbon deposits, in oil.
Fuel consumption has become more than it was.
A lot of gases get into the crankcase.
Low oil pressure in the system.
The motor overheats under light loads.
The engine runs intermittently.

These reasons do not necessarily indicate the need for a major overhaul of the internal combustion engine. If there are many such signs and they are repetitive, then it's time to give the car for capital or do it yourself.

current or in-line repair (repair or replacement of individual parts, for example, painting a bumper);
technical repairs according to the schedule (repair or replacement of worn-out parts that have exhausted their resource);
unscheduled repair of the internal combustion engine (this is when the resource has not yet come out, but the engine for some reason has broken down);
overhaul or overhaul, or capital is done both on schedule after a given resource, and after a final breakdown.

The mileage resource for average cars is considered to be about 200 thousand km, after passing which its characteristics decrease and it is time to make capital. There are cars with a resource of 1 million km (they call engines million-strong), although now there are rumors that the resource of new expensive cars, which used to be million-strong, now have a much smaller resource. The more often a car is repaired, the more profitable is the finances of auto manufacturers and auto parts stores, but this spoils the reputation of a brand or a specific car model.

In some cases, with severe wear of the internal combustion engine or severe breakdowns, it is more advisable to swap the engine.

The manufacturer Avtovaz has set the average mileage for VAZ 2114 cars = 150 thousand km. On average, all Russian cars have the same indicators. But, if various problems are eliminated in time, the resource of the motors can easily withstand 250 thousand km. The resource of engines of foreign cars, on average, is 200,000 - 300,000 km before overhaul.

Overhaul of diesel and gasoline engines is done in stages:

Dismantling the internal combustion engine.
Parts washing and cleaning.
After cleaning, an experienced auto mechanic is able to determine how much worn out certain parts, whether they can be repaired or is it better to replace them. Troubleshooting is done, that is, after the cylinder head (cylinder head) has been removed, it and the cylinder block (cylinder head) are checked for chips and cracks; examine the cylinders for scuffs and scratches; determine the clearances of mating parts; inspect the condition of the pistons for chips, shells, carbon deposits; inspect the crankshaft connecting rods; internal combustion engine crankshaft research; fingers; bearings; parts of the gas distribution mechanism are also checked (valves, rocker arms, etc.). They also compare the dimensions of important parts with the factory ones.
After troubleshooting, it is necessary to assess the degree of wear of the entire engine: what to change, what to leave, what to repair.

If you have never had to completely disassemble the engine, then it would be more correct and better to invite a friend who understands.
Disassembly is desirable in a warm and well-lit garage.
During disassembly, put all bolts, washers and nuts in a box with partitions, do not throw everything into one bucket.
During disassembly, remember the sequence if you are doing this for the first time.
If you do not know what the parts are called, take the old parts to the store and show them to the seller.

In our do-it-yourself engine overhaul guide, here is the following sequence of actions:

Dismantling and disassembly.
Troubleshooting details.
Flushing disassembled parts.
Order and purchase of spare parts.
Block and crankshaft grinding.
Block head repair.
Verification work.
ICE assembly and installation.
Running in after capital.
Conclusion.

Depending on the make and model of the car (engine design, number of cylinders, type of gearbox), the process of dismantling the engine may differ. The arrangement of the engine on front-wheel drive and rear-wheel drive is also different.

Carburetor engines are much easier and faster to disassemble, since they are not crammed with electronic devices, in the presence of which, in order to get to the engine itself, you have to carefully dismantle them all.

So, if Kamaz has to make capital, for example, then its diesel engine from the Yaroslavl plant YaMZ-236 will take about 10 hours to dismantle. If you do the same work with heavy-duty analogs of Kamaz, it will take more than 30 hours.

And it takes about 3 hours to disassemble the VAZ engine. And the engines of foreign cars will take about 10 hours.

It is necessary to disassemble slowly, throwing bolts and nuts everywhere. With disassembly, diagnostics have already begun, so to speak.

Defect detection in this case is mechanical, that is, it is necessary to check visually and using measuring instruments the wear of parts.

inspect the crankshaft and measure its dimensions, check for bends and alignment;
inspect the cylinder block body (BC);
check the parts of the connecting rod-crank mechanism for backlash and the condition itself: pistons, cylinders, rings, fingers, connecting rods;
inspect the cylinder head housing (cylinder head);
parts of the gas distribution mechanism;
determine the maintainability of parts and assemblies.

Many people neglect such work as washing the motor. It is advisable to rinse each part and clean it of plaque so that the degree of wear can be determined, and also rinse the cylinder head and BC to detect macrocracks, if any.

After completing the troubleshooting procedure and screening out those fit for restoration and not fit, it is necessary to order new parts to replace the unusable ones. When you already know what parts are needed, there is no need to delay with their order and purchase, since new parts still need to be prepared for installation.

Liners (main and connecting rod).
Details of the piston group.
Crank pins.
Connecting rod bushings.
Valves (all, both intake and exhaust).
Oil scraper rings.
Gaskets (complete set).
Valve guides and seats.
Pump with a repair kit.
Oil filter and pump.
Other incidental details.

After the issue of spare parts has been resolved, they begin to repair and restore the block and the crankshaft of the internal combustion engine. On a milling and surface grinding machine, the layer of the seat of the cylinder head and the block itself is removed until there are no cavities and chips left. It so happens that there are several deep shells, because of which you have to remove layers in several passes. Usually, depending on the degree of damage, layers are cut off with a thickness of 1 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.25 mm, 0.1 mm, 0.05 mm. After that, they begin to grind the surface to a mirror finish.

There is a special table for grinding the crankshaft, which shows the values of thickness and efficiency after repair in comparison with a new factory one.

Think engine overhaul is a headache? You think correctly. But when you find out how much they take for work, your head will stop hurting and your hands will start to work. Because for that kind of money, three engines can be repaired. This means that we will save money and master the overhaul on our own.

As you drove along, the engine of your beloved iron horse suddenly knocked. Don't be in a hurry to immediately grab the "capital". We must first check everything.

First, let's immediately determine that this is not an engine bulkhead when it was disassembled, cleaned, gaskets changed and assembled. There are already more serious reasons. So, let's pay attention to the prerequisites:

How old is the car? How long has she already run? Foreign or domestic car? If the car is more than 10 years old, it is domestic, for example "Zhiguli" or "Moskvich", then its limit is 150 thousand kilometers. For a foreign car - up to 300. Perhaps, the resource of your car is exhausted, and for this reason the power has decreased.
Let's see what's wrong with the oil. Yeah, the pressure has dropped again, while the car is bursting oil shamelessly - another reason for repairs.
We check the compression, since this is the main parameter that influences the choice - whether a major overhaul is or is not needed. We take a compressometer from friends, take measurements. For example, in our case, out of four indicators in one, instead of eight, there is already five - which means that the time has come for a major overhaul.

Of course, with information. We take out a manual, in which it is reported in detail and with diagrams how to repair your particular brand of car. We find a catalog on the Internet that contains spare parts for this car in order to immediately determine the prices and, possibly, place an order in the online store.

keys - ratchet, torque;
mandrels for coupling pistons, caps;
desiccant for valves;
micrometer;
heads;
device for adjusting valves;
two-legged or three-legged puller;
stethoscope;
tweezers;
support stand;
hydraulic chain hoist;
a set of pullers.

We drive the car into the garage. We remove the battery. Disconnect the hood so that it does not interfere.

We carefully drain all liquids: antifreeze, oil. To do this, instead of bolts on the radiator and the cylinder block, we install faucets - they are sold in any auto shop - and drain them using hoses into the prepared container.

Considering the age of the car, we very carefully disconnect the wiring, connectors, tubes, hoses, etc., so that they do not crumble in our hands, nothing is damaged or cut off. And then some craftsmen still repair the wiring, the cooling system.

We remove without haste everything that can interfere with getting the engine: air filter, carburetor, gas pump - do not forget to screw the bolt, oil separator, distributor, cylinder block cover, camshaft, cylinder head studs, and then the head block, crankcase protection, generator with belt, fan, radiator. We unscrew the bolts that secure the engine. The engine can now be removed.

Before you get to the insides of the engine and start doing the overhaul, try to safely remove it from the car. Call an assistant - you can't do it alone.

Prepare four tires by stacking them on top of each other. Place two pieces of wood on top. Then lay the engine on them.

Now attach the talcum powder, i.e. the lift, to the ceiling beam, it can be attached to the tripod by positioning it above the hood.

Do you know how much the engine weighs? How do you like an aggregate of 140 kilograms? Serious thing? It is clear that you cannot lift it with your hands, and if it falls down, you cannot do without injury. To prevent this from happening, be extremely careful, check the attachment of the talcum powder, and only then start lifting.

Carefully, without too much fuss, pull the engine up, bring it to the stack of tires that have already been laid out in front of the car, lower it, turn it over so that the crankcase is on top, on wooden blocks.

When disassembling, remember or mark somewhere where you are shooting from and where the part was originally located, so that later there will not be superfluous ones, like some homemade ones.

Start gutting the flywheel: first remove the clutch, then get to the crankcase boot. Go to the oil filter. After unscrewing the fasteners, remove the bolts and remove the crankcase, being careful not to break the oil intake.

Now remove the front and rear covers of the block together with the oil seal. Take care of the piglet sprocket, remove it using a puller. Go to the chain stop and unscrew, remove the tensioner shoe, and then the chain, the crankshaft sprocket.

Go to the crankshaft. Remove the nuts from the connecting rod caps, then the caps, carefully pull out the pistons, remove the liners, carefully inspect them for reuse. If you can no longer use them, take a sample and buy new ones from a specialist store or the car market. Just first decide whether you need a groove for the necks, and only then fit the liners under them. Take out the crankshaft with persistent half rings.

Remove piglet, oil pump and its drive gear. Turn over, placing it sideways, remove the pistons with connecting rods from the cylinders. Buy a new piston system according to the old model. You still need to contact a car repair shop.

Take new pistons, let the block be bored under them, and also grind the crankshaft and press the piston pins. Measure with a micrometer the crankshaft journal, look in the manual for what size the earbuds should be, buy them. If you choose the correct liners, you will be able to rotate the crankshaft by hand - this will be the fit test.

Begin assembly by removing carbon deposits. Remove all metal shavings, rinse the beds, lubricate them and the liners with engine oil, and reinstall using the manual. On the rear wall of the block, place thrust half rings so that the grooves are turned on the plane of the crankshaft.

Now you can replace the crankshaft with liners and covers, checking the marking guide, the places where the locks are located. Make sure they are all on the same side. Take a torque wrench, tighten the bolts, turn the crankshaft - if it turns easily, then everything is in order. Otherwise, replace the earbuds with thinner ones.

Ask in the workshop to assemble the piston, because you yourself will not be able to heat the connecting rod heads to more than 100 degrees, but you need to heat them over 200. Check the process.

Now carefully lubricate the piston pins through the holes, throw in the piston rings without haste, make sure that the slots, holes are preserved, tighten the mandrel with a wrench. Lay the block on its side, insert the piston with the connecting rod, not forgetting the markings.

Take a wooden block and, gently knocking, push the piston into the cylinder. Flip the block over to its original position, but do it so that the crankshaft is at the top. Tighten the bolts.

Lightly begin to pull the connecting rods to the necks. Then rotate the crankshaft to make sure everything is set correctly and the liners do not need to be changed. Now you can tighten the bolts.

Put a new oil seal on the cover, install it on the block, pre-coat the joints with sealant. Proceed with installing the clutch boot and flywheel. Remember that the flywheel groove must be turned to the fourth knee of the crankshaft - this is important.

Now install the sprocket, piglet, tensioner shoe, front oil seal, oil pump, flywheel clutch.

Finally, you can install the engine and bolt it. Tighten carefully to avoid stripping threads or bursting parts. Return the pump, generator, radiator, fuel pump to their original places, connect the wires, hoses, terminals, check the fastening strength.

As soon as an overhaul of the engine is completed, it is imperative to carry out a cold run-in before installing it on the car. This is done so that the new parts rub against each other, and is carried out in passive, bench mode or in hard towing, when, due to the movement of the wheels, the crankshaft starts to spin and a cold break-in occurs.

So, in the garage, connect the hoses for the air filter, cooling system, oil supply, outlet to the engine. Install the plugs. Connect the unit to an electric motor.

Fill in the coolant that was drained during disassembly, heating it to 85 degrees, then oil heated to 80 degrees. At low revs, from 600 to 1000, let the engine run for 2 minutes, at high revs, from 1200 to 1400, for 5 minutes.

Before the car has run two and a half thousand kilometers, do not accelerate sharply, pick up speed gradually, do not overload the engine.
After the first run, drain the oil, replacing it with a clean one, but of the same brand (preferably).

Now you are convinced that a do-it-yourself engine overhaul is possible and profitable, because it costs three times cheaper. In addition, it will allow you to operate the car for several more years as a result of extending the resource, prevent unexpected breakdowns on the road, and help avoid an accident.

The following video will tell you what spare parts are needed for the overhaul of the VAZ 2103 engine:

Full restoration of all operational parameters of the internal combustion engine is a major overhaul of a diesel engine. This process is disliked by most drivers, but overhaul is required at the first signs of a car heart breakdown.

Symptoms indicating that a diesel engine overhaul is required include the following:

large carbon deposits form on the spark plugs;
increased oil and fuel consumption;
vapors and gas escape from the hose of the ventilation system with a clearly detectable pulsation of the flow;
the exhaust pipe "gives out" smoke of different colors (experienced craftsmen who know how to overhaul the engine, by the shade of the exhaust are able to determine the cause of the ICE breakdown);
decrease in engine power: this is evidenced by a decrease of 15 percent or more in the maximum speed indicator, as well as an increase in more than a quarter of the vehicle acceleration time to 100 km / h (from standstill);
the engine operates unevenly at idle;
overheating of the engine, its hard work (glow or early ignition, detonation) or interruptions in operation;
extraneous sounds in the carburetor and muffler (such signs of engine overhaul include "sneezing" and "shots");
knocks and extraneous noises in the internal combustion engine;
low oil pressure.

If you are unsure of when to overhaul your engine, pay attention to these symptoms. Just remember that serious malfunctions in the operation of the unit are evidenced by their complex, and not individual facts. In general, the need for overhaul, as practice shows, arises after 100-200 thousand kilometers.

The whole process consists of several stages. This is how it is performed at all service stations, and this is how the engine overhaul should be done on your own.:

dismantling of the unit, its disassembly, subsequent washing and cleaning of elements and assemblies;

inspection of parts in order to establish excessive wear or damage on them;

carrying out their troubleshooting: analysis of the crankshaft, clearance values, the presence of cracks;

repair of the cylinder block (boring, liner, crankshaft repair) and its head.

Further, the overhaul of the diesel engine involves its assembly using torque wrenches to tighten all the elements of the unit, cold running. The latter is produced on the stand and is a forced rotation of the crankshaft. Please note that the internal combustion engine must be filled with coolant and oil.

The final stage of a diesel engine overhaul is adjusting the toxicity and the degree of gas emission and idling speed.

After repair work, it is recommended not to load the engine (towing trailers, other vehicles) and not to operate it at high revs. Such precautions are desirable in the first 150-300 km of run.

If you know when and how to overhaul the engine, you will have much less problems with car operation, since this procedure:

improves the overall quality of the machine;

increases the time of engine use without failures;

guarantees a reduction in the risk of failure of the internal combustion engine.

And in order to rarely make major engine overhauls on your own or take the car to the service, watch out for:

the quality of the poured oil;
condition and timely replacement of the air, fuel and oil filter;
correct operation of the motor at maximum loads;
competent regulation of the internal combustion engine.

These are the factors that most often cause the need for overhaul.

Many motorists have come across the concept of car engine repair. But not everyone understands what this process is. Not every car owner can repair his car, since many simply do not know what technology for repairing a car engine is. This article will tell you about the main processes of restoring the power unit.Repair of gasoline engines is a rather complex process of restoring worn out units and parts of a power unit to its original state or close to it. This process includes many operations and depends on the type and class of the motor.During the operation of a vehicle, many motorists do not pay attention to maintenance, which plays a very important role in the condition of the power unit, as well as its resource. Subsequently, it may happen that the repair of the gasoline engine will not be possible. Therefore, the restoration of the power unit is affected not only by physical wear, but also by how it is looked after.Consider in what cases it will be necessary to repair the engine:

Wear and production of parts over 80% of the resource.

The appearance of mechanical damage to the main components of the power unit.

Failure due to misconfiguration or maintenance.

Other reasons that could cause malfunctions.

How to classify the repair of gasoline engines:

Line repair. This is the repair of worn parts, which during operation have a resource lower than the main power unit.

Engine technical repair. It is carried out when carrying out in-line maintenance for the planned replacement of worn-out elements.

Unscheduled repair of car engines. This is an unexpected breakdown of the power unit, which is caused by poor-quality maintenance, spare parts or other reasons that entailed carrying out restoration operations on the motor.

Scheduled renovation. It is also called a major overhaul. It is usually carried out according to the mileage of the car when the resource of the power unit is exhausted.

Many motorists are wondering - where to start repairing gasoline engines? The answer is quite simple - it is necessary to determine the signs: is it generally necessary to repair the unit, or is the problem hidden in something else? To do this, you will have to carry out a number of diagnostic procedures. They are divided into 2 types: electronic and mechanical.Electronic diagnostics can show whether auto repair is necessary in terms of electronics and whether there are any problems at all. For this, the electronic engine control unit is checked, as well as the condition of all sensors and connections. If no problem is identified, then you should not go further, because you can create a problem that will have to be solved.Mechanical diagnostics will require a lot of time, effort and knowledge. There are instructions for carrying out this operation on the Internet, but in this article we will try to explain everything in a much more detailed and understandable way. If problems were found in the process of carrying out diagnostic operations, then gasoline engines will have to be disassembled and repaired.By the way, for this there is an engine repair manual, which is produced by the manufacturer, both in paper and in electronic form. So, we will consider the process of repairing a car, or rather its power unit in more detail.The first process is dismantling the power unit from the car and disassembling it. In each case, the engines are removed in different ways. This is influenced by the following indicators: drive, engine location, number of cylinders, body design features, gearbox type and others.For example, it is much easier to dismantle a power unit from a Zhiguli or a domestic-made truck than from other cars. They have fewer electronic devices, so dismantling is easy and simple.For example, diesel engines YaMZ-236 and YaMZ-238 are dismantled from a car in 10-12 hours, and their foreign counterparts - in more than 36 hours. The situation is the same with the disassembly process, which can take from 3 hours from Zhiguli and from 10 hours from foreign-made cars.The disassembly process should be treated carefully, since it is at this moment that the first diagnostic operations are carried out. A car enthusiast, if he repairs the engine with his own hands, must visually inspect the presence of damage, cracks and other defects on the power unit and its components.The next step will be troubleshooting, which will determine the symptoms of a malfunction, and also show the state of the mechanic. What is this procedure:

Measurement of the crankshaft for size, hardness, deflection and centering.

Diagnostics of the condition of the plane and the body of the cylinder block.

The state of the piston group.

Deterioration of elements and cylinder head housing.

Other indicators.

The feasibility of repairing the motor.

The engine, the repair of which is inevitable, needs washing of the block and its components. This process is carried out using hot kerosene or special means under pressure. This allows you to wash out all metal shavings, dirt and other unnecessary elements that have accumulated during operation.When diagnostics have been carried out and all the parts to be replaced have been identified, it is worth ordering the necessary spare parts, since preparation is required before installing them on the engine. Often, when a gasoline engine is being repaired, the following spare parts are changed:

Main and connecting rod bearings.

Piston group.

Crank pins.

Connecting rod bushings.

Oil filter and pump.

Pump or its repair kit.

Intake and exhaust valves.

Oil scraper rings.

Gasket set.

Valve guides and seats.

Other details.

The next stage of the repair and restoration work is the grinding of the crankshaft, as well as the planes of the block and the head.With the help of surface grinding and milling machines, the plane of the GBU and the block is brought into a mirror surface. As a rule, can be removed: 0.05mm, 0.1mm, 0.25mm, 0.5mm, 1mm and more thickness of the product.As for grinding the crankshaft, there are types of repairs for this unit:First of all, for a high-quality overhaul of the engine, an experienced and knowledgeable mechanic is needed. After all, overhaul, unlike current repairs, requires much more knowledge and skills.The most common reason for this costly operation is severe engine wear. As a rule, this happens after a long run or due to improper operation, usually an untimely oil change or a violation of the temperature regime. But there may be other reasons when an engine capital is needed. The so-called water hammer, when an abruptly large amount of liquid enters the air intake system or mechanical damage as a result of an accident. Image - DIY 3C engine repair

Only an experienced mechanic can determine the need for overhaul for the engine. If a water hammer or obvious mechanical damage has occurred, then everything is obvious. But in case of wear, diagnostics will be required. The first sign of such wear is overestimated oil consumption and increased exhaust smoke. These are clear signs of the need to check the compression in the cylinders - the degree of compression of the working mixture in the combustion chamber.

In the process of checking the condition of the motor, a special device is used - a compression meter. Also, a professional mechanic uses a special model of a stethoscope. The compressor is inserted into the plug hole, the ignition module is turned off and the starter turns on each cylinder several times until the maximum value is obtained. The normal value is from 8.5 MPa.

With a stethoscope, the master by ear determines the development of the crankshaft, liners and piston fingers. Based on the data received, he will issue a verdict on the need for an overhaul of the engine.

Overhaul of the engine affects almost all engine components. Here is a list of engine overhaul parts:

repair half rings;
7 large and 5 small. clamps;
set of spark plugs;
vacuum hose;
main and connecting rod bearings p 1 set;
a set of pistons and fingers;
set of rings;
a complete set of valves;
valve guide kit;
valve seals (valve stem seals) for all valves;
engine oil seals 3 pieces;
gaskets 3 pcs. (block head, pallet and valve cover);
oil filter;
6 liters of mineral oil for the engine (m6);
gear oil for the check point (4 l.);
for valve cover 2 rubber grommets;
set of block head bolts;
a complete set of paper spacers;
oil pump with intake;
10 liters of antifreeze;
air filter;
timing belt;
generator belt;
breather pipe;
special clamp for the muffler.

The list of spare parts is quite long, but it directly depends on the amount of future work. At the cost of spare parts, you can never say something unequivocally. It all depends on the manufacturer, and on the shopping center or auto shop.

This amount of work on the overhaul of the engine requires so many spare parts:

removing the engine;
engine wash;
disassembly of the engine;
flaw detection of engine parts;
repair of the cylinder head;
boring and honing of the cylinder block;
replacement of oil pump drive shaft liners;
crankshaft grinding;
crankshaft polishing;
removing and installing plugs, cleaning the crankshaft channels;
replacement of the input shaft bearing;
grinding the surface for the crankshaft oil seal;
repressing of pistons;
engine assembly;
engine installation.

All this also requires a huge number of tools. The mechanic locksmith uses almost all of his arsenal.Not only a standard set of wrenches, but also special tools, pullers, grips, drifts and other tricks.

A separate item is the engine running-in after overhaul. This is a separate and very important process worthy of special consideration.

How much an engine overhaul costs depends, as already mentioned, on many factors. This is the region where the work will be carried out, and the cost of parts, and the contractual potential of the car owner. But in general, you can focus on the figure of 20-30,000 rubles for a 16-valve VAZ engine.

You need to know that even after being sent for repairs, some additional difficulties may arise in the process of work. Not a single master, with any diagnostics, will determine the degree of wear of the cylinder liner walls. The basic version takes into account the work on the cylinder bore for the new piston. However, after disassembly, direct inspection may indicate the need for replacement of the cylinder liners themselves. In this case, you will have to buy a set of cylinders and repress them. It's the same with the engine crankshaft. A complete and reliable wear pattern will only be shown by complete disassembly.

It is worth noting that this replacement of work will not greatly affect the total cost.

In case of mechanical damage to the cylinder block itself or its head, the master will send the part for argon welding processing. This is welding of cracks, chips, faults. The head may be deformed and will have to be sanded. But all this, as they say, will only show an autopsy.

It is recommended when carrying out overhaul work, to defect and, if necessary, replace the clutch parts. Defect the gearbox and change the oil in it. This is very convenient when the engine is completely removed.

The repair is over. Now the engine is cold running. At different repair stations, it is made in different ways. The best option, however, is a bench run-in. The removed engine is installed on a special stand, oil is poured at the rate and turning on the stand, it starts rotating at a given speed. However, it is quite difficult to find a stand now. Most often, only at large service centers with exorbitant prices. Small service stations also get out of the situation. There are homemade devices from an electric motor from a 220V network, a reduction gear and attachments for the crankshaft pulley bolt. This system handles cold break-in just as well. The advantage of this device is that it can be used on an already installed engine that is not connected to the power supply and ignition system.

Both cold and hot running-in must be carried out with mineral oil. This is a prerequisite. Only mineral oil will provide a high-quality lapping of parts.

A cold run-in lasts approximately 15 minutes. After that, the master looks at the condition of the oil with a dipstick and sometimes removes the valve cover for control. Then it starts up for another 25-30 minutes. That's it, now the engine can be fully connected to the car system.

After the cold break-in and engine start-up check, the hot break-in period begins. It consists in operating the machine in a gentle way. That is, it is advisable not to overclock the engine over 5000 rpm, not to load the car with excessive weight and not to heat up too much. Otherwise, operate as usual. This mode must be kept 3500 kilometers. After that, you need to drain the used oil. It is advisable to fill in the flush, and run at idle for several minutes. Drain the flush. Now you can fill in fresh.

From that moment on, the usual semisynthetics are poured. The break-in period is over and you can use the machine as usual. Only then can we say that the overhaul has been successfully completed. Below is a helpful informational video:

Video (click to play).