Message: №25 XoMbl4 »05 Feb 2013, 17:44
Think engine overhaul is a headache? You think correctly. But when you find out how much they take for work, your head will stop hurting and your hands will start to work. Because for that kind of money, three engines can be repaired. This means that we will save money and master the overhaul on our own.
As you drove along, the engine of your beloved iron horse suddenly knocked. Don't be in a hurry to immediately grab the "capital". We must first check everything.
First, let's immediately determine that this is not an engine bulkhead when it was disassembled, cleaned, gaskets changed and assembled. There are already more serious reasons. So, let's pay attention to the prerequisites:
How old is the car? How long has she already run? Foreign or domestic car? If the car is more than 10 years old, it is domestic, for example "Zhiguli" or "Moskvich", then its limit is 150 thousand kilometers. For a foreign car - up to 300. Perhaps, the resource of your car is exhausted, and for this reason the power has decreased.
Let's see what's wrong with the oil. Yeah, the pressure has dropped again, while the car is bursting oil shamelessly - another reason for repairs.
We check the compression, since this is the main parameter that influences the choice - whether a major overhaul is or is not needed. We take a compressometer from friends, take measurements. For example, in our case, out of four indicators in one, instead of eight, there is already five - which means that the time has come for a major overhaul.
Of course, with information. We take out a manual, in which it is reported in detail and with diagrams how to repair your particular brand of car.We find a catalog on the Internet that contains spare parts for this car in order to immediately determine the prices and, possibly, place an order in the online store.
keys - ratchet, torque;
mandrels for coupling pistons, caps;
desiccant for valves;
micrometer;
heads;
device for adjusting valves;
two-legged or three-legged puller;
stethoscope;
tweezers;
support stand;
hydraulic chain hoist;
a set of pullers.
We drive the car into the garage. We remove the battery. Disconnect the hood so that it does not interfere.
We carefully drain all liquids: antifreeze, oil. To do this, instead of bolts on the radiator and the cylinder block, we install faucets - they are sold in any auto shop - and drain them using hoses into the prepared container.
Considering the age of the car, we very carefully disconnect the wiring, connectors, tubes, hoses, etc., so that they do not crumble in our hands, nothing is damaged or cut off. And then some craftsmen still repair the wiring, the cooling system.
We remove without haste everything that can interfere with getting the engine: air filter, carburetor, gas pump - do not forget to screw the bolt, oil separator, distributor, cylinder block cover, camshaft, cylinder head studs, and then the head block, crankcase protection, generator with belt, fan, radiator. We unscrew the bolts that secure the engine. The engine can now be removed.
Before you get to the insides of the engine and start doing the overhaul, try to safely remove it from the car. Call an assistant - you can't do it alone.
Prepare four tires by stacking them on top of each other. Place two pieces of wood on top. Then lay the engine on them.
Now attach the talcum powder, i.e. the lift, to the ceiling beam, it can be attached to the tripod by positioning it above the hood.
Do you know how much the engine weighs? How do you like an aggregate of 140 kilograms? Serious thing? It is clear that you cannot lift it with your hands, and if it falls down, you cannot do without injury. To prevent this from happening, be extremely careful, check the attachment of the talcum powder, and only then start lifting.
Carefully, without too much fuss, pull the engine up, bring it to the stack of tires that have already been laid out in front of the car, lower it, turn it over so that the crankcase is on top, on wooden blocks.
When disassembling, remember or mark somewhere where you are shooting from and where the part was originally located, so that later there will not be superfluous ones, like some homemade ones.
Start gutting the flywheel: first remove the clutch, then get to the crankcase boot. Go to the oil filter. After unscrewing the fasteners, remove the bolts and remove the crankcase, being careful not to break the oil intake.
Now remove the front and rear covers of the block together with the oil seal. Take care of the piglet sprocket, remove it using a puller. Go to the chain stop and unscrew, remove the tensioner shoe, and then the chain, the crankshaft sprocket.
Go to the crankshaft. Remove the nuts from the connecting rod caps, then the caps, carefully pull out the pistons, remove the liners, carefully inspect them for reuse. If you can no longer use them, take a sample and buy new ones from a specialist store or the car market. Just first decide whether you need a groove for the necks, and only then fit the liners under them. Take out the crankshaft with persistent half rings.
Remove piglet, oil pump and its drive gear. Turn over, placing it sideways, remove the pistons with connecting rods from the cylinders. Buy a new piston system according to the old model. You still need to contact a car repair shop.
Take new pistons, let the block be bored under them, and also grind the crankshaft and press the piston pins. Measure with a micrometer the crankshaft journal, look in the manual for what size the earbuds should be, buy them. If you choose the correct liners, you will be able to rotate the crankshaft by hand - this will be the fit test.
Begin assembly by removing carbon deposits.Remove all metal shavings, rinse the beds, lubricate them and the liners with engine oil, and reinstall using the manual. On the rear wall of the block, place thrust half rings so that the grooves are turned on the plane of the crankshaft.
Now you can replace the crankshaft with liners and covers, checking the marking guide, the places where the locks are located. Make sure they are all on the same side. Take a torque wrench, tighten the bolts, turn the crankshaft - if it turns easily, then everything is in order. Otherwise, replace the earbuds with thinner ones.
Ask in the workshop to assemble the piston, because you yourself will not be able to heat the connecting rod heads to more than 100 degrees, but you need to heat them over 200. Check the process.
Now carefully lubricate the piston pins through the holes, throw in the piston rings without haste, make sure that the slots, holes are preserved, tighten the mandrel with a wrench. Lay the block on its side, insert the piston with the connecting rod, not forgetting the markings.
Take a wooden block and, gently knocking, push the piston into the cylinder. Flip the block over to its original position, but do it so that the crankshaft is at the top. Tighten the bolts.
Lightly begin to pull the connecting rods to the necks. Then rotate the crankshaft to make sure everything is set correctly and the liners do not need to be changed. Now you can tighten the bolts.
Put a new oil seal on the cover, install it on the block, pre-coat the joints with sealant. Proceed with installing the clutch boot and flywheel. Remember that the flywheel groove must be turned to the fourth knee of the crankshaft - this is important.
Now install the sprocket, piglet, tensioner shoe, front oil seal, oil pump, flywheel clutch.
Finally, you can install the engine and bolt it. Tighten carefully to avoid stripping threads or bursting parts. Return the pump, generator, radiator, fuel pump to their original places, connect the wires, hoses, terminals, check the fastening strength.
As soon as an overhaul of the engine is completed, it is imperative to carry out a cold run-in before installing it on the car. This is done so that the new parts rub against each other, and is carried out in passive, bench mode or in hard towing, when, due to the movement of the wheels, the crankshaft starts to spin and a cold break-in occurs.
So, in the garage, connect the hoses for the air filter, cooling system, oil supply, outlet to the engine. Install the plugs. Connect the unit to an electric motor.
Fill in the coolant that was drained during disassembly, heating it to 85 degrees, then oil heated to 80 degrees. At low revs, from 600 to 1000, let the engine run for 2 minutes, at high revs, from 1200 to 1400, for 5 minutes.
Before the car has run two and a half thousand kilometers, do not accelerate sharply, pick up speed gradually, do not overload the engine.
After the first run, drain the oil, replacing it with a clean one, but of the same brand (preferably).
Now you are convinced that a do-it-yourself engine overhaul is possible and profitable, because it costs three times cheaper. In addition, it will allow you to operate the car for several more years as a result of extending the resource, prevent unexpected breakdowns on the road, and help avoid an accident.
The following video will tell you what spare parts are needed for the overhaul of the VAZ 2103 engine:
VIDEO
Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]
Message vano365 »17 June 2012, 13:40
Message Alexandr »17 June 2012, 19:21
Message cherepokk »24 June 2012, 20:06
Message Cthulhu »24 June 2012, 22:06
Message fansports »25 June 2012, 19:20
Message cherepokk »27 June 2012, 22:29
Message VictorAlexeevich »28 Jun 2012, 06:54
Message brembist »28 Jun 2012, 08:10
In theory, if the author of the topic had an HONEST capital, and not a stick with rings tossed (which most likely was done), then the breather has little effect, because the engine after repair does not breathe at all, and nothing is left through these meshes in the breather labyrinths blowing. But the toss of rings into crooked cylinders, this is most likely the reason for this hemorrhoid.
One thing is interesting, what was the oil consumption before this very "capital"? Because 2 liters per 400-500 km is generally ogogo.
Message Cthulhu »28 June 2012, 08:59
Message brembist »28 June 2012, 09:02
Message Cthulhu »28 Jun 2012, 09:22
Message VictorAlexeevich »28 Jun 2012, 09:42
Message Cthulhu »28 Jun 2012, 09:55
Message brembist »28 June 2012, 12:21
Message Alexandr »28 June 2012, 19:36
The cylinders must be honed! This is an axiom. The term “cylinder mirror”, which came into use in mechanical engineering back in the 19th century, should not be taken literally now. In those days, indeed, it was believed that an ideal cylinder should be polished like a mirror (somewhat paradoxical, but now such a cylinder is considered completely dead). The resource of those "mirror" motors rarely exceeded 20-30 thousand kilometers. The word “mirror” can now be safely replaced with the word “honing”. As it turned out, applying scratches to the friction surface of a microscopic mesh to retain lubricant can increase the engine resource tenfold, honing technologies are still the subject of a huge amount of scientific and technical research all over the world (I'm not sure about Russia, our engineering idea has been almost completely destroyed ). If I am not mistaken, in the USSR, cylinder honing was first used in ZIL-130 engines in the 60s, and these motors, according to the stories of old drivers, stood out sharply from the general mass for their reliability and great resource for those times.
A clogged breather manifests itself in a completely different way. The oil will really pour out of all the cracks, it can turn out some kind of oil seal. The breather is important enough on an ideal engine, try to pinch the breather hose and open it after 10 seconds, and it will go well from there. The author of the topic can simply pull out the oil dipstick or open the oil filler neck on a running engine, if there is noticeable smoke and blowing from there, then the motor can be safely capitalized again.
Volodya, after all, this is a 4M40 engine, I have a 4D56 engine, is it the same thing?
no. But the prices are about the same plus or minus.
Well, I will definitely unsubscribe about the autopsy ... just maybe there is still someone on the forum who has already made the capital of the same engine, who can share their experience, otherwise it’s easier and cheaper to take a contract engine and not torture ..
well, the contract is about 1200-1500 without attachments and repairs are about 200-300 more expensive.
I called for the sake of interest in a couple of three offices that give ads in wheels, they have 4D56 without attachments from 2000 to 2200, the price is pretty biting.
Good day to all! Faced with a problem .. I get to the capital dvigla, who has already encountered a similar question on the dviglom indicated in the topic, where and at what price did you get the spare parts? how much did the capital cost? I created the topic for a reason, because I was put in a queue for the capital, I will do it for my love and unsubscribe what for what and where, how, and who did it .. but I would like to hear the opinions of those who already have experience on this issue, what to pay when checking after the capital Attention? which spare parts are better to take (original or duplicate) because it happens that the duplicate runs longer than the original .. and I also wonder if there are any programs for the repair of our machines. in order to consider in detail where what goes in the engine and where it is worth ... in the manuals the engine is not shown in such detail, we can of course looked at the wrong manual, advise me to tell ... I did not find the topic about the capital of this engine, so leave the moderators at their discretion or combine (transfer)!
And you have not thought about installing another model of engines instead of 4d56 and how much it costs, because I also had a problem with oil consumption, who can tell me, for example, 1kz or something else that does not have similar power. After all, a lot of money comes out all the same, so it can already be taken specifically. By the way, I consulted with the master on the former BOSCHE, he said that it seems like it’s worthwhile to do a thorough overhaul, it’s better to order the engine, or as the respected gray did with the seats from Pajero - I ordered them indiscriminately in Kyrgyzstan, maybe the engines are cheaper to take there, and they themselves will privatize Post has been edited by lokasso: 04 April 2012 - 10:00
I asked several specialists (including Sasha from Alatau)
I recommend you to put a contract, Post has been editedSONVLAD: 04 April 2012 - 10:24
8 seven hundred and seven 202 22 6 seven Anatoly, he is from Delikovodov, STO is located on Bauman,
I, too, from Delikovodov advised one master to grind very sensible and these engines have been sorted out more than once, and he takes for work for his 55,000, so I'll drive after the 10th what he will tell me from there and I will dance, maybe it will really be easier to take either a contractor or a completely different engine, but it's a different engine and the system is different (I think so) and will this engine replace the old one ?!
Yesterday I was cooking with my familiar minder. not so long ago he ran through 4d56. and so with work and spare parts, the repair got out in 1900 ye. as he said. that everything was changed there. only the block of cylinders remained native. for the work he took 90,000 tenge. the rest is spare parts.
Thank you for the info, did the spare parts come from the original or duplicates?
10 days of work, 1 year of warranty
10 days to change the engine.
Thank you for the info, did the spare parts come from the original or duplicates?
50/50 like he said. he took all the parts himself. some of the duplicates, some of the original. as they say)))). he just already has his own channels for spare parts. he just orders and they bring him. and the owner of the car is already making the budget. ))))
I, too, from Delikovodov advised one master to grind very sensible and these engines have been sorted out more than once, and he takes for work for his 55,000, so I'll drive after the 10th what he will tell me from there and I will dance, maybe it will really be easier to take either a contractor or a completely different engine, but it's a different engine and the system is different (I think so) and will this engine replace the old one ?!
Don't even think about another engine, there are a lot of bugs.
Don't even think about another engine, there are a lot of bugs.
Video (click to play).
Thanks for the advice! I am also inclined to think that capitalizing on a normal basis and following a “diet” like it’s afterwards, unfortunately, there is no reliable source for contract engines ..
