DIY 4d56t engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself 4d56t engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The high pressure fuel pump, in short - high pressure fuel pump is an integral part of modern diesel engines. The high-pressure fuel pump is designed to supply fuel to the cylinders in strictly defined quantities in certain cycles of the diesel engine.

Fuel pumps differ in the type of fuel injection:

direct injection of a diesel engine (the supply of a diesel engine and its injection into the cylinders take place simultaneously);
battery injection (pressurized fuel is accumulated in a special "accumulator" and then supplied to the injectors).

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Also, high pressure fuel pumps may differ among themselves in types, pumps can be of the following designs:

in-line;
multi-section;
distribution.

If you do not go into the "jungle" of design differences between pumps of different types, then you can simply identify certain differences between them. In in-line and multi-section pumps, each section supplies diesel to its "own" cylinder. In distribution pumps, one "block" is capable of supplying several cylinders with diesel.

Also, another difference between the injection pump is their "power" - how many cylinders the pump is designed for and its pressure. In general, these are all obvious differences between the pumps. In general, these are the main differences between the pumps.Now we will no longer torment our readers with theories about the operation of injection pumps and their primitive characteristics, which have long been described on the Internet in large quantities. Let's move on to the immediate specifics.

The engine manufacturer Mitsubishi is deliberately omitted here. This is due to the fact that at the moment there are several derivatives of this engine. Accordingly, they have a minimum of design differences, and the injection pump is suitable for both motors.

Video (click to play).

To be more specific, this is the same engine as the Hyundai D4BH, the pump for it has full compatibility with the 4D56T internal combustion engine (the differences between the 4D56 and 4D56T internal combustion engines are insignificant, the "T" index indicates a turbocharged engine).

The pump itself for the above engines, there is only one, produced by Zexel (aka Diezel Kiki), and now BOSCH. Yes, final suppliers and packaging may vary, but in the end, injection pumps for these motors can only be obtained from Zexel or BOSCH.

Basically, the accelerated output of the injection pump on these engines is caused by low quality fuel, as well as by the ingress of foreign elements into the system, which often occurs when loose connections and driving over rough terrain, fords, etc.

The main problems with the injection pump on these engines are as follows:

Damage (due to accelerated wear) of the internal parts of the pump - the plunger pair, bearings and other parts.
Contamination of the filter (protective mesh and element) due to the ingress of foreign elements into the system.
Increased or floating revolutions due to the so-called. "Airing" of the system - the ingress of air into the system due to loose connections and worn out gaskets and seals.
Poor engine start in cold weather, caused by a jammed or broken thermostat (located on the left side of the pump, injection advance mechanism).
Other breakdowns associated with the rest of the elements - spark plugs, automatic heating, fuel supply, diesel injection advance angle settings.

Until now, the debate about which injection pump for 4D56 / 4M40 / D4BH engines is better, electronic or mechanical, does not subside. How big are the differences in the injection pump themselves and the attachment electronics for the pumps. Is it relevant to replace an electronic injection pump with a mechanical one?Let's take a closer look.

So, the main difference in this moment is not the pump itself, but the equipment (electronics or mechanics) that activates the fuel supply system, depending on one or another mode of engine operation. In a mechanical injection pump, activation occurs due to the direct mechanical control of the injection pump. A cable runs from the gas pedal to the pump, which controls the system. In an electronic injection pump (EFI), the gas pedal is already electronic and the system is activated through the accompanying electronic units and sensors.

There is also a version about the existence of a cable drive for controlling an electronic injection pump (there is a control rheostat on the pump itself), but our editorial staff could not verify the reliability of this particular information.

Structural diagram of a mechanical pump:

The advantages of a mechanical injection pump:

ease of maintenance;
reliability (due to fewer electronic components and sensors, which often "love" fail);
cost, as a rule, mechanical pumps are cheaper than their electronic "counterparts".

Disadvantages of a mechanical injection pump:

the absence of any indication systems and the quality of the units;
the need to fine-tune the parameters and monitor the state of all related elements of the system (spark plugs, fuel pump, diesel injection timing device);
increased consumption compared to an electronic pump.
slightly worse traction performance at high rpm compared to an electronic pump.

Structural diagram of an electronic pump:

The advantages of an electronic injection pump:

more stable operation of the engine, the absence of "floating" revolutions with serviceable accompanying elements (candles, injection advance mechanism, etc.), including electronic components and sensors;
reduced fuel consumption compared to a mechanical pump;
traction performance at high rpm is slightly better than that of vehicles equipped with mechanical pumps;
the ability to read errors through electronic control units.

Disadvantages of electronic injection pump:

a large number of sensors and other electronics, and this somewhat complicates car repair and increases the cost of maintenance;
difficulties in finding some electronic components;
difficulties in the selection of the pump itself and its components, since there are a large number of different variations with hinged electronics and they are different depending on the make and model of the car;
the reliability of electronic pump units is lower than that of mechanical ones, since electronic components and sensors can often fail.

Before proceeding with the description of the process of removing the pump from the car, it should be mentioned that this article is not a guide to work on a specific car!

Zexel injection pump (aka Diezel Kiki or BOSCH) is equipped with a large number of cars with 4D56, 4M40, D4BH engines. Moreover, this family of engines is installed on completely different cars in terms of their characteristics and arrangement of units, such as Pajero Sport and Hyundai Oldax, so the attachments will be different in most cases. We will just talk about the pump removal process in general terms, without delving into the design differences between cars of different brands equipped with these engines and pumps.

To remove the pump, you will need to do the following:

remove all electrical wiring from the pump itself;
remove the cooling pipes from the intercooler;
unscrew the high-pressure lines, for this use the key for "14";
after which it is necessary to remove the nozzles, this is done with a long head on "22";
then remove the washers (2 pcs.) from the wells for the nozzles;
after which it is necessary to clean the wells of dirt, etc. and close the nozzle seats with a clean rag or glue it tightly;

after the above actions, it is necessary to remove the timing mechanism (for more information about removing the timing mechanism, see the book on repairing a specific car);
as soon as the timing is removed, it is necessary to remove the fuel injection pump sprocket and be sure to set marks on the injection pump and the engine block, this is done so that later it would be easier to install the pump and perform its adjustment;
as soon as all the above steps are completed, you can unscrew the fastening bolts of the injection pump.

The pump is removed, now, depending on the problems, it can be sent to the service to the master. Well, or do it yourself if the breakdown is not very serious.

The installation of the injection pump is carried out in the reverse order: installation of bolts, connection of vacuum hoses and electricity, etc. However, it should be noted that when installing the pump, be sure to set the marks in the correct position! In addition, it should be remembered that the elements of the high pressure system must be installed using a torque wrench. We attach the tightening forces of each element during installation:

nozzles - 55-60Nm;
high pressure pipes - 30Nm;
return pipes - 25-30 Nm.

Once the assembly is completed, it is necessary to turn the crankshaft pulley with a wrench and make sure that there are no extraneous knocks and rattles. Then you should pump the fuel and only then start the car.

To repair a pump with your own hands is a responsible occupation that requires a large amount of knowledge, experience and the availability of your own equipment, therefore, before deciding on such a crucial step, we strongly recommend that you weigh your chances. Yes, such a simple maintenance as installing a repair kit for gaskets and cleaning the filter mesh is not so difficult to perform, and you can do it yourself. But more serious repairs should be trusted by professionals.

The test subject was a mechanical pump removed from a vehicle and washed. One of the simpler repairs is replacing the shaft seal.

To do this, it is necessary to remove the pump drive pulley with a pulley, then remove the old oil seal and install a new one. It is important to note that it is not necessary to press deeply a new oil seal, its adjustment and position should not differ from how the previous one was installed.

Next - cleaning the mesh in front of the plunger pair. To do this, unscrew 4 bolts on the pump body itself, remove the cover, along the way checking the mechanisms for backlash (there should not be any), and carefully remove the plungers and blow out the mesh. Then install everything in the reverse order.

The rest of the repair is more complicated and requires certain skills, even to replace a complete pump repair kit. With a simple repair, it remains to be content with the repairs of the above consumables and the replacement of gaskets.

I'll tell you a little about my car.

Mitsubishi Pajero 93 years old.

Diesel engine 4D56T simple as a felt boot, no electronics, everything is mechanical, pneumatic and hydraulic. The box is a mechanic (up to this point I drove exclusively on the machine, I learned how to drive normally in a week). Large wheels 265x70R16. You can go by car wherever there is a road and where there is no road. 🙂 In general, this is my first jeep.

I bought a Pajero on May 9, 2013, I drove for a year and was happy, pouring oil into the engine and filling the salar into the tank. Until recently.

Overhaul decision.

In winter, the engine started badly, oil flowed from all the cracks in the engine, and ate fuel as if not into itself. I went to the service station, measured the compression - 19-20 in all cylinders. And this is at a rate of 27 - 30 for a diesel engine! in general, the shopkeepers sentenced the motor to overhaul or replacement. There was no money to replace it: 78,000 rubles for a contract motor from Japan. It's expensive for me. Repairing the engine in the service is a little cheaper, but about the same.

After sitting with a friend and having drunk a couple of liters of diluted alcohol, we decided to capitalize the motor ourselves. 🙂

No sooner said than done. 2 weeks the engine was overhauled.

How to remove the motor.

Nothing really complicated. We take the car and take out the engine. 🙂

In fact, not everything is so simple.

First of all, we unscrew the hood so that it does not get in the way.

We remove everything that is under the hood and that one way or another will interfere with the removal of the motor.

- intercooler (air cooling radiator after the turbine).

- main radiator and cooling fan.

- all tubes: fuel, vacuum.

- wires. There are not many of them, the motor is without brains. 🙂 They go to the generator temperature sensor, oil pressure and to the valve in the fuel pump.

We unscrew all the bolts with which the engine is attached to the frame. There are 4 of them, 2 on each side. We remove the engine. Not removed? still would! He, such a dog, is still bolted to the gearbox!

Bolt holes are marked in red. And if the lower ones are very easy to unscrew, then the upper ones are still a problem. They are not visible either under the hood or underneath. Therefore, we take a meter-long extension cord to the ratchet wrench, get up under the car and try to unscrew one bolt for half an hour.

In general, the bolts are unscrewed, we are preparing to remove the motor.

Manual winch and a friend to help me. 🙂 We grab the motor by the ears from above and pull, pull, pull and pull it out.

We put the motor on the old tire. We push the car out of the garage until we no longer need it.

We disassemble the motor.

We begin to unscrew everything from the motor. Literally everything.

You need to disassemble it to the screw.

Removing the cylinder head (Cylinder head) This is such a thing on top of the engine, where the valves are.

We take out all the parts from the engine, leave one cast-iron cylinder block. We wash it from oil and dust. The procedure is the same, they washed near the garage with a Karcher high pressure washer, like in professional car washes. In general, in the process of washing you are like a Dolmatian in black spots. 🙂

We examine the pistons, looking for cracks. There is not? We saved a remarkable 9 thousand rubles. 🙂

Next, we look at the crankshaft, shiny necks should be free of scratches. No scratches - even better! But you need to measure them for wear, for this we take the crankshaft to the minders and they will already tell you what to do next. If the wear is within the normal range, then we buy standard size inserts in the store and assemble, we think that we are very lucky. If the crankshaft is worn out, then it is polished, and the inserts of the repair size are selected, how much the crankshaft was polished. They say on this motor the crankshaft breaks down after grinding, but thank God, everything is within the normal range. 🙂

Then the fun begins. We take the piston ring and insert it into the cylinder. First from above, then in the middle and look at the lock (gap). In the middle of the cylinder, where the piston moves, the lock is larger, i.e. the cylinder liner is worn out. Due to the large gap, the compression of the motor decreases, it loses power.

Grinding liners and buying new pistons for a new size is expensive! Our pistons are normal!
Replace the liners with new ones. Then we will insert our own pistons!

So let's do it. We go to the store and buy casings. This pleasure costs 2,500 rubles + 8,000 rubles for the installation of all four casings. You cannot install them yourself, you need to contact specialists.

We take the block after the sleeve and enjoy the new sleeves. Again we take the ring and insert it, we look. The clearance is equally small anywhere in the cylinder. Hooray!

We assemble the motor in the reverse order.

We put new rings in the pistons. New liners (crankshaft) and connecting rod (piston) we twist the crankshaft and turn it.

The main thing is that it rotates freely by hand, it should not be bitten anywhere. Pour everything abundantly with oil. In those places where something touches something and rubs it should be wet. 🙂

We put everything on the sealant and do not forget about the gaskets.

We fasten the head. We read in the book that you need to tighten the bolts with a torque of 120 Nm. In 3 stages and in a specific sequence. See the sequence in the book.

Now we collect everything in reverse order. During the week, while the motor was disassembled, a third of the bolts had disappeared somewhere. 🙂 But magic jars of bolt stocks saved the day. The main thing is not to forget to put gaskets and lubricate with sealant.

We put on the timing belt, set the pulleys according to the marks. We turn the crankshaft with a key and see that we have not made a mistake anywhere and that the valves do not meet with the pistons and nothing wedges. If we get sick, we disassemble and see what is wrong.

Unfortunately, there are no photos of how we installed the motor, but everything is extremely simple there. As well as pulled out - just the opposite.Do not forget about the bolts that attach the motor to the box. It is even more difficult to twist them than to unscrew them.

We connect all the wires and hoses. We put a radiator and a fan. Fill the engine oil and antifreeze in the radiator. We go to drink alcohol (beer, kvass, who loves what). After half an hour, we look under the car. If nothing drips - let's start!

Starts up for a long time, tk. the fuel pump is empty and while the fuel is being pumped up you will have to turn the starter for 10 seconds. The motor sneezes, shakes, spitting out black smoke, and finally starts up! Hooray! We won!

Now we listen, if nothing rattles and does not ring and there is no extraneous noise, we go to wash the successfully done work, and let the engine run for 8-10 hours at idle, so that everything will get used to it. 🙂

The total budget of the event is approximately 15,000 rubles.

These are spare parts, plus a set of gaskets, + oil, + antfirz, + sleeve.

2 weeks, 3-4 hours of work every day.

So the overhaul of the engine is not as bad as it seems. Even if you only saw the steering wheel and wheels in the car before.

In general, if briefly, I got to repair the engine.
Symptoms - leaked oil from the front, engine wedge.
146% cranked the inserts, then only the parsing of the shove will show.

Who faced? What time will the pleasure come out? Maybe someone will take it? Where can I get cheaper parts?

PS: do not offer a contract, it costs like the floor of a car 🙂

OSAGO for bikers and trucks - numbers on the site

In general, if briefly, I got to repair the engine.
Symptoms - leaked oil from the front, engine wedge.
146% cranked the inserts, then only the parsing of the shove will show.

Who faced? What time will the pleasure come out? Maybe someone will take it? Where can I get cheaper parts?

PS: do not offer a contract, it costs like the floor of a car 🙂

The 4D56 engine has been designed and refined over a long period of 10 years. The manufacturer Mitsubishi decided to experiment with the power drive of heavy cars - buses, trucks, frame pickups, cargo-passenger modifications, it was decided to equip with a diesel engine.

The manufacturer's design is based on an in-line four with a cast-iron block and an aluminum head, a high-pressure fuel pump and balancing shafts that reduce vibrations. The manufacturer recommends operating the internal combustion engine on high-quality diesel fuel to ensure the declared resource of 200,000 km.

The main task in the design of a diesel engine for the designers was to increase the power and service life, to ensure normal maintainability, therefore, the engine uses an in-line arrangement of 4 cylinders and a DOHC gas distribution scheme with two overhead camshafts. The turbocharged version uses the SOHC single camshaft engine layout.The table summarizes the technical characteristics of the 4D56 diesel engine:clutch bolt - 16 - 22 Nmbearing cover - 38 - 42 Nm (main) and 25 - 29 Nm (connecting rod)cylinder head - 4 stages 78 Nm, loosen, 30 Nm + 90 ° + 90 °For both atmospheric and inflatable modifications of the 4D56 engine, a potential of 50 liters is laid. With. minimum, therefore, it is allowed to force it on its own to improve the parameters of the internal combustion engine - torque and power.

Also, high pressure fuel pumps may differ among themselves in types, pumps can be of the following designs:

in-line;
multi-section;
distribution.

The main problems with the injection pump on these engines are as follows:

Damage (due to accelerated wear) of the internal parts of the pump - the plunger pair, bearings and other parts.
Contamination of the filter (protective mesh and element) due to the ingress of foreign elements into the system.
Increased or floating revolutions due to the so-called. "Airing" of the system - the ingress of air into the system due to loose connections and worn out gaskets and seals.
Poor engine start in cold weather, caused by a jammed or broken thermostat (located on the left side of the pump, injection advance mechanism).
Other breakdowns associated with the rest of the elements - spark plugs, automatic heating, fuel supply, diesel injection advance angle settings.

Until now, the debate about which injection pump for 4D56 / 4M40 / D4BH engines is better, electronic or mechanical, does not subside. How big are the differences in the injection pump themselves and the attachment electronics for the pumps. Is it relevant to replace an electronic fuel pump with a mechanical one? Let's take a closer look.

Structural diagram of a mechanical pump:

The advantages of a mechanical injection pump:

ease of maintenance;
reliability (due to fewer electronic components and sensors, which often "love" fail);
cost, as a rule, mechanical pumps are cheaper than their electronic "counterparts".

Disadvantages of a mechanical injection pump:

the absence of any indication systems and the quality of the units;
the need to fine-tune the parameters and monitor the state of all related elements of the system (spark plugs, fuel pump, diesel injection timing device);
increased consumption compared to an electronic pump.
slightly worse traction performance at high rpm compared to an electronic pump.

Structural diagram of an electronic pump:

The advantages of an electronic injection pump:

more stable operation of the engine, the absence of "floating" revolutions with serviceable accompanying elements (candles, injection advance mechanism, etc.), including electronic components and sensors;
reduced fuel consumption compared to a mechanical pump;
traction performance at high rpm is slightly better than that of vehicles equipped with mechanical pumps;
the ability to read errors through electronic control units.

Disadvantages of electronic injection pump:

a large number of sensors and other electronics, and this complicates vehicle repairs and increases the cost of maintenance;
difficulties in finding some electronic components;
difficulties in the selection of the pump itself and its components, since there are a large number of different variations with hinged electronics and they are different depending on the make and model of the car;
the reliability of electronic pump units is lower than that of mechanical ones, since electronic components and sensors can often fail.

Before proceeding with the description of the process of removing the pump from the car, it should be mentioned that this article is not a guide to work on a specific car!

To remove the pump, you will need to do the following:

remove all electrical wiring from the pump itself;
remove the cooling pipes from the intercooler;
unscrew the high-pressure lines, for this use the key for "14";
after which it is necessary to remove the nozzles, this is done with a long head on "22";
then remove the washers (2 pcs.) from the wells for the nozzles;
after which it is necessary to clean the wells from dirt, etc. and close the nozzle seats with a clean rag or glue it tightly;

after the above steps, it is necessary to remove the timing mechanism (for more information about removing the timing mechanism, see the book on repairing a specific car);
as soon as the timing is removed, it is necessary to remove the fuel injection pump sprocket and be sure to set marks on the injection pump and the engine block, this is done so that later it would be easier to install the pump and perform its adjustment;
as soon as all the above steps are completed, you can unscrew the fastening bolts of the injection pump.

The pump is removed, now, depending on the problems, it can be sent to the service to the master. Well, or do it yourself if the breakdown is not very serious.

The installation of the injection pump is carried out in the reverse order: installation of bolts, connection of vacuum hoses and electricity, etc.However, it should be noted that when installing the pump, be sure to set the marks in the correct position! In addition, it should be remembered that the elements of the high pressure system must be installed using a torque wrench. We attach the tightening forces of each element during installation:

nozzles - 55-60Nm;
high pressure pipes - 30Nm;
return pipes - 25-30 Nm.

To repair a pump with your own hands is a responsible occupation that requires a large amount of knowledge, experience and the availability of your own equipment, therefore, before deciding on such a crucial step, we strongly recommend that you weigh your chances. Yes, such simple maintenance as installing a repair kit for gaskets and cleaning the filter mesh is not so difficult to perform, and you can do it yourself. But more serious repairs should be trusted by professionals.

The test subject was a mechanical pump removed from a vehicle and washed. One of the simpler repairs is replacing the shaft seal.

To do this, it is necessary to remove the pump drive pulley with a pulley, then remove the old oil seal and install a new one. It is important to note that it is not necessary to press deeply the new oil seal, its adjustment and position should not differ from how the previous one was installed.

The rest of the repair is more complicated and requires certain skills, even to replace a complete pump repair kit. With a simple repair, it remains to be content with repairing the above consumables and replacing gaskets.

The fact that at the factory the accuracy class for the assembly is higher, I do not argue, but the monogo depends on the specialist who makes this engine. I checked the clearances, dimensions and parameters of the parts - KV, block, shaft and timing bed, I agree everywhere there is wear and tear, but judging by the talmus, it is within the permissible range. It is clearly spelled out: “if the gap or size is from and to, then put in place, but if these frames are not included, then change to new ones”, the degree of tightening in talmuts is also indicated, I took a dynamo key for this purpose! the spare parts are not factory-made and not the original, they have a price tag just space, if all the spare parts are the original, then I don't see the point in repairing - the price tag will be cosmic! The accuracy of grinding depends on the people who are engaged in this, of course, if the borers have equipment from the time of the First World War, then the quality of grinding is out of the question. we have a small town and they are sharpening in one place EVERYONE goes to them, they don’t spoil, the work is done with high quality and the equipment is appropriate!

I apologize, but what exactly is your malfunction? on the question of spare parts, you can come to a store and ask what part you need for your engine, they look in the catalog by engine number, body number and year of manufacture and say specifically what, how and how much, well, then you decide. regarding the timing shaft bolt, check the bolt for the quality of the ribbing, if you have doubts, change it, it is not expensive, if the bolt suits you before tightening it, wipe it off the oil, etc. smear with a sealant-gasket, let it dry for 5-10 minutes and wrap it, I also smear the bolt on the KV with a sealant, with this practice, the bolts have never been unscrewed spontaneously!

I apologize, but what exactly is your malfunction? on the question of spare parts, you can come to a store and ask what part you need for your engine, they look in the catalog by engine number, body number and year of manufacture and say specifically what, how and how much, well, then you decide.regarding the timing shaft bolt, check the bolt for the quality of the ribbing, if you have doubts, change it, it is not expensive, if the bolt suits you before tightening it, wipe it off the oil, etc. smear with a sealant-gasket, let it dry for 5-10 minutes and wrap it, I also smear the bolt on the KV with a sealant, with this practice, the bolts have never been unscrewed spontaneously!

thanks for the advice on the sealant, really simple and practical. I have such a malfunction, it requires replacing the cylinder head, at the moment I am confused with which fit of saddles I should buy and how to properly check my own for the same fit (from what and where to measure). through the fault of the exist, it issues MD 185925 without analogues. like that, I got entangled in “three pines” and I just can't get out.

I'm not a guru on this, but searching can work wonders sometimes!

look at what can you find out for yourself

I will say this, there is some truth in those words, but here a lot depends on the build quality, i.e. where does the master's hands grow from, during assembly everything must be observed, and gaps, and tightening torques, etc.,

It can be said more simply .. There is a major overhaul, but there is a hack directly affecting the post-repair run

The engine that I turned off (not a diesel engine, and not a Mitsubishi) ran 160,000 and was safely sold along with the car, in a cheerful and cheerful state (I didn't even change the MC caps for 160tyk!)
There are manuals with sizes, there is a measuring tool (if you are capital yourself, then you should not save on it). And then only your desire not to deceive yourself.