DIY 6g72 engine repair 12 valves

In detail: do-it-yourself 6g72 12 valve engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

We bait the clutch basket. Then, when we center the disc, we will tighten it completely.

After that (though I missed a few photos), they put the engine in the car, so the clutch disc was centered, then carefully removed and tightened the clutch basket to the end. True, when they began to put it again, I had to suffer a little ...

In general, they put it and screwed it to the box. Then he “washed” one head, changed the valve seals.

Similarly, the second head ...

Well, then everything attached ...

Intake manifold, injectors, timing ...

Throttle valve and other small things ...

Then I got tired of the engine and passing by the shelf I saw old gas stops from the TAZ 2112. They have been lying around for a year now, I did not throw them away, I read about how they are put on the hood. I drove to the basement for a drill and a tap, 40 minutes and voila! Everything is drilled, sliced and twisted! Now let's see how they will hold the hood when I put it on.

I put the generator, coil, belts, wires, candles ...

The last step was: air filter, oil filter, starter, clutch slave cylinder, muffler, oil, antifreeze, some kind of wires ...

Well, the last one was the BATTERY!
URAAAAAAA! REALLY ?!
Pour!

Fortunately, there was no limit! Started up! Working!
I worked at idle, at low revs for 1.5 hours.
Naturally bored and wanted to ride. True, I got a little sick and did not go far, so side by side along the street.
I'll post the video a little later.

15 - 17000 ceiling, including spare parts. Let's take the maximum, 17000 rubles.
Let's see what happens.

There is no point in counting further, the repair for the master becomes unprofitable only for spare parts, and this is far from a complete list of what you have to buy - change! There are still no pistons here, if you sharpen it, there is no cost of shaft boring, cylinder head grinding.

Video (click to play).

Your maximum bar of 17,000 rubles with spare parts is nothing more than a brazen, deceitful and hypocritical troll of a scoundrel, who most likely has long been sent to fuck at all local service stations for scamming when calculating and dirty, far-fetched and speculative presentations.
Not a single self-respecting master will work for free, let alone at a loss, unless you are his son or daughter.

Just to remove and put the motor at my service station costs 12000 rubles. And this is the lowest price for our service stations, I am dumping.

This engine belongs to Mitsubishi's popular 6G series. There are two types of 6G72: 12-valve (one camshaft) and 24-valve (two camshafts). Both are 6-cylinder V-units with increased camber and overhead camshafts / valves in the cylinder head. The lightweight engine that replaced the 6G71 remained on the assembly line for exactly 22 years, until the arrival of the new 6G75.

ATTENTION! Tired of paying fines from cameras? A simple and reliable, and most importantly 100% legal, way has been found not to receive more “letters of happiness”. Read more"

Let's consider the main features of this engine.

The engine crankshaft is supported by 4 bearings, the covers of which are combined into a bed to increase the rigidity of the cylinder block.
The engine pistons are cast from an aluminum alloy, connected by a floating pin to the connecting rod.
Cast iron piston rings: one has a tapered surface with a bevel.
Composite oil scraper rings, scraper type, endowed with a spring expander.
In the cylinder head there are tent-type combustion chambers.
The engine valves are made of refractory steel.
Hydraulic lifters are provided for automatic adjustment of the clearance in the drive.

The differences between SOHC and DOHC schemes deserve special attention.

The camshaft of the SOHC version is cast, with 4 bearings, but the camshafts of the DOHC version have 5 bearings, fixed with special covers.
The engine timing belt with two camshafts is adjusted by an automatic tensioner. The rollers are cast from aluminum alloy, have a long service life.

Let's note other features.

The engine displacement is practically unchanged for various modifications - exactly 3 liters.
The aluminum pistons are protected with a graphite coating.
The combustion chambers are located inside the cylinder head, they are tent-shaped.
Installation of direct injection GDI (on the latest modifications 6G72).

The most powerful in the 6G72 engine modifications was the turbo version, which develops 320 hp. With. Such a motor was installed on the Dodge Stele and Mitsubishi 3000 GT.

It is noteworthy that before the appearance of the Cyclon family, the MMC company was completely satisfied with in-line "fours". But with the advent of large SUVs, minivans and crossovers, the need for more powerful installations has emerged. Therefore, in-line "fours" were replaced by V-shaped "sixes", and some modifications received two camshafts and a cylinder head.

The manufacturer focused on the following during the manufacture of new motors:

trying to increase power, resorted to using a turbocharged version;
trying to reduce fuel consumption, he modernized the valve system.

6G72 oil consumption has been increased to 800 g / 1000 km, which is explained by some technical features. Overhaul can make itself known after 150-200 thousandth run.

Some experts explain the wide range of 6G72 modifications by the ability to vary the engine power. So, it can issue, depending on the version: 141-225 liters. With. (simple modification with 12 or 24 valves); 215-240 l. With. (version with direct fuel injection); 280-324 l. With. (turbocharged version). Torque values also differ: for conventional naturally aspirated versions - 232-304 Nm, for turbocharged versions - 415-427 Nm.

As for the use of two camshafts: despite the fact that the 24-valve design appeared earlier, the DOHC scheme was applied only from the beginning of the 90s of the last century. Previously produced 24-valve versions of the engine had only one camshaft. Some of them used direct injection GDI, which made it possible to increase the compression ratio.

The turbocharged version of the 6G72 is equipped with an MHI TD04-09B compressor. Two coolers function in tandem with it, since one intercooler is not able to provide the required air volume for six cylinders. In the new version of the 6G72 engine, modernized pistons, oil coolers, nozzles, and sensors were used.

Interestingly, for the European market, 6G72 turbo engines came with a TD04-13G compressor. This option allowed the power plant to reach a capacity of 286 liters. With. at a boost pressure of 0.5 bar.

In the Cyclone series of V-shaped 6-cylinder power units manufactured by Mitsubishi, the 6G72 engine is the second version. It is characterized by a description of the parameters of the internal combustion engine:

volume 3 l;
cylinder diameter 91.1 mm;
piston stroke 76 mm.

Mitsubishi's motors had 12 or 24 valves, a single-shaft SOHC or two-shaft DOHC valve timing system, and a GDI direct intake system. The weakest modification of 6G72 engines is a 12-valve SOHC for Chryslers with 141 hp. With. and 233 Nm.

The most powerful engine of the plant in this series was the turbo modification with the characteristics of 320 hp. With. and 427 Nm for Dodge Stealth, Mitsubishi 3000GT and Debonair vehicles.

Before the appearance of the Cyclone family, Mitsubishi was completely satisfied with the "in-line fours". However, further there was a need for an engine for SUVs, minivans, crossovers, and then SUVs, so the engine scheme became V-shaped 6-cylinder, the number of cylinder heads increased to two.

Since its inception, the management has installed these engines on 30 models of Mitsubishi, Chrysler, Hyundai, Plymouth and Dodge passenger cars. In this case, the manufacturer carried out an individual adjustment of the characteristics:

the turbocharged version maximized power;
single-shaft SOHC gas distribution system with 2 valves per cylinder, on the contrary, was used in derated engines;
Upgrade with 4 valves per cylinder provides lower fuel consumption.

In more detail, the technical characteristics of the 6G72 can be studied in the lower table:

125 - 136 kW (170 - 185 HP) 24V SOHC

145 - 165.5 kW (197 - 225 HP) 24V DOHC

158 - 176.5 kW (215 - 240 HP) GDI 24V DOHC

206 - 238 kW (280 - 324 HP) Turbo 24V DOHC

255 - 265 Nm / 4500 rpm 24V SOHC

265 - 278 Nm / 4500 rpm 24V DOHC

299 - 304 Nm / 3300 rpm GDI 24V DOHC

415 - 427 Nm / 2500 rpm Turbo 24V DOHC

for DOHC casting, 5 supports, fixing with caps

combined cycle 13.7 l / 100 km

bearing cover - 68 - 84 Nm (main) and 43 - 53 Nm (connecting rod)

cylinder head - 30 - 40 Nm

For each configuration of the power drive, there is a manual with step-by-step photos that allow you to overhaul the motor yourself.

Unlike previous Mitsubishi inline families, the 6G72 engine has a V-shaped design:

cylinders collapsed at an angle of 60 degrees;

attachments are concentrated on the left in the direction of travel, in front of it;

the volumes of combustion chambers inside individual modifications do not change - 3 liters;

the pump body and the cylinder head head are made of aluminum alloy;

the cylinder block and the exhaust manifold are cast from cast iron;

forged steel crankshaft, rests on 4 bearings with covers combined into a single bed;

aluminum pistons with graphite coating; mirrors, oil scraper and compression rings are made of cast iron;

the thermal clearance of the valves is regulated by hydraulic compensators;

cast camshaft of SOHC modifications rotates in 4 bearings, DOHC versions in 5 bearings;

bearing caps for 12-valve motors are combined into a common bed;

the camshaft of 24 valve versions is located inside the crankcase;

timing mechanism drive belt with toothed elements, automatic tensioner;

camshaft rocker arms, aluminum.

Oil consumption has been increased to 800 g / 1000 km, overhaul is allowed several times after a run of 150-200 thousand km. An important feature is the installation of GDI direct injection on later versions.Since the 6G72 engine was used for different types of cars with some design changes, but keeping the marking and general scheme, conditionally, modifications of the power drive can be considered:

12 valves controlled by one camshaft according to the SOHC scheme;

24 valves controlled by one camshaft according to the SOHC scheme;

24 valves controlled by two DOHC camshafts;

24 valves, DOHC, plus GDI direct injection;

24 valves, DOHC scheme, plus an additional attachment for the intake tract - a turbocharger.

This allows you to vary the power in the range of 141 - 225 hp. With. under normal conditions, 215 - 240 liters. With. with direct fuel injection, or 280 - 324 liters. With. in a turbocharged version. At the same time, the torque of atmospheric modifications is 232 - 304 Nm, and for a turbocharged engine 415 - 427 Nm.The two-shaft DOHC system has been used only since 1990, but 24 valve heads of the cylinder head appeared earlier, some of them were used with direct injection GDI, allowing the compression ratio to be increased to 11 units.Under the MHI TD04-09B turbocharger, two intercoolers were installed at once, since one cooler could not cope with the air volume for 6 cylinders. In these engines, under a compression ratio of 8 units, other pistons, sensors, oil coolers and nozzles were used. The geometry of the ports, camshafts and intake manifold has changed.For the European market, the TD04-13G compressors were used, which made it possible to reach a capacity of 286 liters. With. at a boost pressure of 0.5 bar. In total, the 6G72 motor was installed on the conveyor for 22 years, then gave way to the 6G75 family.The main disadvantages of the V-shaped power drive are traditionally:

the cylinder head is divided into two parts, maintenance becomes more complicated, oil consumption increases for the correct operation of the hydraulic lifters;

powerful drive unit overheats in the urban cycle;

when the timing belt breaks or slips, the piston bends the valve.

The rest of the design is very reliable and highly durable. The owner is spared additional costs, he does not need to call in to the master every 15 thousand kilometers to adjust the valve clearances.Partly the disadvantage is the variety of designs of the 6G72 engine, since one or two camshafts, 12 or 24 valves, a direct injection system can be installed in it.First of all, the 6G72 engine was mounted on the cars of the manufacturer that created it - Mitsubishi:

GTO (3000GT, aka Dodge Stealth) - 1990 - 1999;

Sigma - 1988 - 1990;

Debonair - 1986-1992;

Galant - 1999 - 2003;

Eclipse - 2000 - 2005;

Space Gear / L400 - 1994 - 2007;

Magna - 1993 - 2001 (for the Australian market);

Verada - 1991 - 1996 (for the Australian market);

Diamante - 1990 - 2002;

L200 - 1990 - 2006;

Challenger / Montero Sport - 1997 - present v.;

Mighty Max - 1990 - 1996.

Then the Japanese recommended the use of these powertrains in Dodge pickups and SUVs:

Raider - 1988 - 1990;

Dynasty - 1988-1993;

Caravan / Plymouth Voyager - 1987 - 2000;

Ram 50 - 1990 - 1993;

Stealth - 1991 - 1996;

Daytona - 1990-1993;

Shadow - 1992 - 1994;

Shadow ES - 1992-1994;

Stratus - 1995 - 2005;

Sprint - 2002 - 2008.

Engine performance also matched Chrysler car models:

New Yorker - 1988 - 1989;

Town & Country - 1989 - 1990;

TC / Maserati - 1990 - 1991;

LeBaron - 1990-1995;

Sebring Coupe - 1995 - 2008;

Saratoga - 1889 - 1995.

Since the forcing of the basic engine modification is made for a specific car, Mitsubishi recommends motors of this series for other automakers:

Plymouth Acclaim (Dodge Sprint or Chrysler Saratoga) - 1989 - 1995;

Plymouth Voyager (Dodge Caravan) - 1987 - 2000;

Hyundai Sonata - 1990 - 1998.

Most of these models are in operation to this day, confirming the reliability and long service life of the 6G72 series engines.In addition to replacing the belt after 90,000 km and oil with an oil filter every 10,000 km, the 6G72 engine must be serviced in the following order:

revision, cleaning as necessary of the fuel system and crankcase ventilation after 30,000 mileage;

recharging the battery in the fall and replacing it after 3 - 4 years;

installation of new fuel filters after 40,000 km and air cartridges twice as often;

change of coolant at the turn of 30,000 mileage and inspection of hoses, connections;

spark plugs are usually enough for 30,000 km, after which they need to be changed;

oxygen sensors must be replaced every 100,000 mileage;

the exhaust manifold burns out every 2 years.

A detailed ICE device is given in the operating instructions along with the timing for replacing consumables.The average service life 6G72 engine is most susceptible to the following "diseases": Brian "31 May 2013, 17:22There is a zhor of oil, more than 1 liter per 1000 km. 250t. km of run, probably the time has come.Actually. They have crazy thoughts. I went into existential and was surprised that there are piston repair kits on the 72nd engine. Image - DIY 6g72 engine repair 12 valves

There was no limit to my joy, rem kits 0.5mm and 1.0mm. You can sharpen a block TWICE, this is an eternal machine.

Googling the Internet gives the answer that the Japanese usually do not have any prior knowledge at all, i.e. it is possible that a repair kit is not needed, and you can get by with the piston STD by stupidly replacing the rings.

There is no desire to give the car to the services, they will not do well, what they will do is not known, it is impossible to be sure of such a motor. There is only one way out, to do it yourself. Carefully with the Internet, take your time.

My question concerns the following:
1. What do they do with capital? Could it be that there is a selection on the crankshaft and camshaft? They have a gun price.
2. It is necessary to identify the financial side of the issue. Pistons, rings, oil scraper valves = 25,000 rubles. If the pistons do not have any development, then minus 10tr. It turns out 15000r
3. All sorts of little things in the form of grease, oil, tools, sealant, accompanying rubber bands on the motor, the groove of the block itself will probably be about 10-15 tr.
4. Provided that you do the work yourself + help from the club with tools. We get the approximate cost of the capital 30t.r. Well, you can put in the shift unforeseen expenses of 20% for cocacolla. About 35t.r.

We get: Unforgettable memories, invaluable experience, “ideal” dvigun.
We lose: 35t rubles, 2-3 months of time, the risk of being left without a motor, given my zero qualifications in this matter.

Alternative:
1. Drive until thawed, fill in oil along with refueling benzyl. As soon as it hits, it’s going to the landfill or to the capital. Attachments 0 rubles.
2. Buying a contract pikhla whatever comes across, pour oil into it and install it in my place. And maybe he will start and eat somehow? But there is no such thing on sale yet, and the price will be there. well xs 35-40? There are a lot of risks, I can buy the same garbage.
3.Do not flog a fever and change stupidly the oil scraper valves on the valves continue to ride. Costs in the region 10t.r. subject to self-repair. Drive another winter, and then get this topic up?

Max PXT »31 May 2013, 21:52

The topic is relevant! I have almost 200 thousand mileage, soon to change the timing! Therefore, I want to know what it will be possible to change the trailer.

Added after 3 minutes 17 seconds:
To start with, I would advise you to try on the compression !! to find out whether it is piston or not !! then draw conclusions. well, perform an autopsy (if necessary). Something like this

Brian »31 May 2013, 23:40

This will give nothing at all. The mms has 3 rings, even with a completely seated oil scraper, the compression will work.

Apart from the oil seals and rollers, you can see the drips on the pump.

mr.maks »01 June 2013, 16:42

Polundra »01 June 2013, 23:12

Brian »02 June 2013, 21:47

And it pleases

This means that at 400 it will be possible to buy a set of 0.5, at 600 - 1.0. I love this motor

P.S. changed the name so that people would not get confused with Valeren's post)

Kiruxin »07 Jun 2013, 01:17

Brian »07 June 2013, 07:45

Kiruxin »07 June 2013, 15:40

Krav »25 Aug 2013, 18:42

Advertising »01 Jan 0000, 00:00

Users browsing this forum: no registered users and 1 guests

In parallel with atmospheric versions, the 6G72TT version was also produced with two MHI TD04-09B turbochargers and two intercoolers. Such engines differed from the usual 6G72 in other intake, exhaust camshafts, ports, pistons for compression ratio 8, oil nozzles, oil cooler, pan, sensors. The connecting rods on the 6G72 are the same, the injectors are 360 cc. There are 1G and 2G versions, the second is more modern and slightly strengthened. Stock pressure 6G72TT - 0.5 bar, power - 280 HP. at 6000 rpm. European models were equipped with TD04-13G turbochargers, boost pressure - 0.5 bar, power 286 hp. The fastest versions of the Mitsubishi GTO / 3000GT VR-4 and Dodge Stealth R / T twin-turbo had 324 hp and a boost pressure of 0.8 bar.
A belt is used in the gas distribution mechanism; replacement of the 6G72 timing belt, as well as the roller and pump, is carried out every 90 thousand km. In the event of a belt break, 6G72 bends the valve.

Production of the 6G72 continued for 22 years, after which the engine was replaced by the larger 6G75.

1. High oil consumption. Given the age of the engine, the problem is most likely in the valve stem rings and seals. You need to check, buy new rings and caps and carry out repairs.
2. Engine knocking. Often the problem is associated with hydraulic lifters. Buy new hydraulic lifters, remove the valve cover and replace. Sometimes 6G72 knocking problems are caused by cranking the connecting rod bearings. In this case, it is very likely to get an engine overhaul. Check and monitor the oil level.
3. The speed of XX is floating. Check the idle speed regulator, most often the problem is in it. Then inspect the condition of the throttle valve, it may need cleaning.

In addition, once every 100 thousand km, you need to replace the candles with 6G72. This procedure is difficult due to the need to remove the intake manifold. Along with this, it is necessary to inspect the intake manifold flange, perhaps grinding is needed.
To protect yourself as much as possible from possible problems, oil for 6G72 should only be of high quality. Do not save on gasoline either, get regular maintenance and your engine will run for a long time and without problems. The resource of the 6G72 engine is on average 400 thousand km or more, with normal maintenance.

To start increasing the power of the 6G72 TT, we need to buy a front intercooler, blow-off, AEM or Mines ECUs, boost controller, fuel pump from Toyota Supra US, Aeromotive fuel regulator, exhaust all 3 ″. With this configuration, you can get a power of about 400 hp. at a pressure of 1 bar and go much faster than the drain. This will be the golden mean.
Next, modify the turbines or buy a Garrett GT28 (or TD04-19T), buy a forged piston, ARP studs, 750 cc injectors or better, modify the cylinder head, replace the fuel line with a reinforced one, buy another thick radiator, another oil cooler. After all this, your 6G72TT will go as it should.

There are several ways to increase the displacement of the 6G72 engine. The easiest way is to buy a ready-made stroker kit, usually they increase the volume to 3.4 liters. The second way, in short: buy a 6G74 cylinder block, buy 93 mm forged pistons for a compression ratio of 8.5 or bore a piston under 95 mm (which will give 3.6 liters). At the same time, buy Pauter connecting rods and cover with a 6G72 TT head on top, buy ARP studs, modify the pallet.

Tuning the naturally aspirated versions of the 6G72 (SOHC / DOHC / GDI) isn't worth the expense. Much more forward-thinking would be to buy a Mitsubishi 6G72 TT.

repair, information for maintenance, car news, reviews, diagnostics, forum

Mitsubishi Pajero, in the third body, bought in Japan at auction in 2007. 6G72 engine V73W body. Machine made in 2003. I bought it with 55,000 km mileage, the car was in perfect condition, they even gave it a year of warranty. Pajero has established itself from the best side, despite the solid trips: from Irkutsk to the Black Sea coast (about 6000 km), through the mountains of Mongolia, annually trips to Baikal, fishing trips on mud, snow and gravel roads. At the same time, not a single failure, super reliable car. I poured oil into the engine and pour "Mobil" either semi-synthetic or synthetics, in winter the car is parked. In 2012, with a mileage of 111,000, two hydraulic lifters knocked, one on the right, one on the left.

It is my own fault - I had to change the oil on time, but I drove about 15,000 on old oil. You can find out in detail the problem of hydraulic lifters knocking in the previous article “why do hydraulic lifters knock»I have not seen the book on repair of Mitsubishi Pajero in the third body, in nature in Russian, but there was a book on Mitsubishi Pajero Sport, there is something there, but not enough. I found some information on the Internet. It was recommended to change the oil, after changing the oil - it is good to gas. It was recommended to perform 30-40 cycles (change the engine speed from idle to 6000 rpm). This did not help, although I did this procedure several times. It is difficult to get to the hydraulic lifters on the 6G72 engine, a lot of work has to be done.

At the same time, for 100,000 km of run, it is necessary to change:

Timing belt (OEM codes: MD358557, A608YU32, MD376561, 193YU32, TB61363, A608YU32MM, 193XY32MB, T1363, AY440MT031, V9152M017);
Spark plug(OEM codes: IFR6E11, NGK, MD372588, MD373645, 0948200548, 96307562, BKR6EIX11P, IK20, S25, PK20PRL11, 6741, P15, SK20PRA11, SK20PRA114, BY481BKR6E, VK20, BKR6EIX11);
Generator belt (OEM codes: MD366490, MN155725, AD07R2415, 1YR715241DA, 7PK2415, 7PK2418, 7PK2420, 7PK2419, 7PK2417, AY14072415, 7PK2416);

It’s bad, of course, because of laziness to risk the car, but it’s better to do it right later. I bought a timing belt, a set of candles, a generator belt (it is one and turns everything), as well as 4 hydraulic lifters (OEM codes: MD377560, MD151382, MD377561, MD072177, MD093714, MD339767, OP5001, OEMD377561, 420020010). Replacing all 24 hydraulic lifters is expensive - one costs 700 rubles, so it was decided to work according to the principle - an autopsy will show.

Everyone knows that Mitsubishi Pajero is a difficult car to be repaired, therefore, given the lack of a book, I decided to take a photo of the disassembly process and record the actions in detail. I will not describe the sequence of work in detail here.

drain the coolant;
disconnect the radiator;
remove the radiator fan;
battery;
air filter housing;
generator;
power steering;
air conditioner (very inconvenient operation);
remove the front engine front;
cooling system pump (pump);
tension rollers for belts;
belts;
throttle control unit;
remove the crankshaft pulley;
different tubes and wiring harnesses;
upper and lower housing of the receiver (very laborious operation);
unscrew the candles;
remove the cylinder head covers;
4 camshafts with rocker arms;

By the way, to replace the candles, you still need to do this amount of work.

The camshafts must be pulled out carefully so that the hydraulic lifters do not fall out, it is better to do it this way: lifting the already unscrewed camshaft, turn the rocker arm around its axis by 180 degrees, then fix each hydraulic lifter in its socket with an elastic band or tape. It is advisable that the hydraulic lifters remain in their places, since they are worn in in their place.

Further, removing them one by one, we are convinced of their performance, in addition, each hydraulic compensator of 24 must be rinsed with fresh oil. To do this, I bought a medical syringe, 20 cubes. The needle must be thick (the oil must pass through it), in addition, I grinded the sharp edge of the needle with a file to a flat surface. Two hydraulic lifters, which apparently knocked, were jammed. You draw engine oil into the syringe, put the hydraulic compensator up with the hole, easily press the ball with the needle of the syringe, inside the hydraulic compensator, oil is pressed in parallel with the syringe. Initially, dirty oil comes out of the hydraulic compensator, gradually becoming cleaner.
I did this operation several times, until absolutely pure oil appeared at the exit. I read somewhere that you can soak them in diesel fuel, but you still need to pump them with oil.The rocker arms must also be put in their original places (on the familiar ones).

One more point: when installing the camshafts on the engine, there is a danger of the hydraulic lifters falling out of the rocker arm seats. To prevent this, it is necessary to wrap each hydraulic compensator with smooth paper, and put a bandage on top with ordinary electrical insulating tape. When installing the camshafts, you can not be afraid for the fate of the hydraulic lifters, and after installing the camshafts in place, carefully cut and pull out these bandages. By the way, it is necessary to install hydraulic lifters filled with oil.

The assembly of the engine is carried out in the reverse order, I will not describe it. But I would like to note one point. When removing the crankshaft pulley, a three-petal plate (TDC sensor) turned, which is responsible for the timing of the spark. I installed it with an error of 180 degrees. Therefore, after the completion of the work, I could not understand why the engine would not start? I had to disassemble and assemble again.

Replacing the timing belt is not difficult, but if you do the job alone, you need to buy staples. Because it is not possible to hold the belt on two camshaft pulleys with your hand at the same time, and so you fasten the belt on each pulley, and you can set marks without any problems. After reassembly, the engine started without problems, it works quietly, hydraulic lifters have been working without question for 10,000 km. Why change all 24 as suggested by the car service?

Hello. I was looking for information on the examination of motors and found this forum.
you may have to contact AB-engineering, but perhaps they will help on the forum.
MMC Pajero 1995 engine 6G72 12 valve. V-pattern, 6 cylinders. Automatic transmission
mileage as if declared 200-250 t.km What they did before is problematic to find out.
compression 9.8-10.5 - norm 11-12
stood for 1.5 years without moving. the client bought a car and drove about 1000 km.
1.on rpm 1200 -2500 dips
2.leaky crankshaft and camshaft oil seals
3.Knock on the valve mechanism
4.Oil carbon deposits on the lid
5. when draining the oil, small clots of "something"
6.Oil consumption is increased

work was carried out and problems were partially eliminated
1.1. replacement of the fuel pump, spark plugs, ignition coils - the cause was corrected.
2.1.-5.1 - removed the engine. removed the cylinder head, camshafts,
the crankshaft with pistons and block was taken for inspection. the output on the inner cylinders is minimal.
within tolerance. I will not tell you the figure. hone - normal. I write normally, because no boring was needed.
there is no imbalance on the crankshaft. The cylinder head was checked, without distortions.
valves were cleaned of carbon deposits, sat down on the wells. hydraulic compensators. valve adjustment - no.
the glands (elring) were replaced due to the old ones that had become hardened.
oil change removable.
assembled the engine, started.
all OK. working. there are no strangers knocking. stood at the check with breaks for 8-10 hours (worked without load).
we hand over the car to the client. in 1.5-2 hours happy posts on the forum how wonderful everything is, how the car “flies”, racing with Porsche cars and X5, etc. then race through the woods in the mud. (client posts on the forum)

after 2 weeks, problems began to creep out (or jambs during assembly) have not yet been found out.
mileage 500-600 km.
all oil seals leaked - 5w40 valvoline syn power oil (the client insisted on this)
knock of valves -
since sometimes the quality of elring oil seals is not always optimistic, replaced.
there is no blue or white smoke from the breather (they have no valve). pressure - approx.
those. there is no pressure inside the motor. crush the oil seals due to the pressure in the engine due to the gases. nothing. a pressure gauge was put on the breather. not believing the pressure gauge. checked by old-fashioned methods, the ball on the breather, the mirror .. there is no pressure.
there is no exhaust smoke. neither white, nor blue, nor gray-brown ..
the pressure in the oil line is normal. 0.8 / 2/4 - 750/2000/3500
replaced the oil valve. valvoline oil 5-40.
the only thing that was missed is the compression measurement. I repent. which is possible and would lead to a clue.
brought in. the machine worked for 4 hours. tested under load no more than 2000-2500 rpm.
all OK. we give it to the client.

three days pass - the crankshaft oil seal is leaking.
the client goes to another hundred.
conclusion one hundred
one.engine is not breathing -. there must be pressure from the breather
2.wrong cylinder head gaskets (no holes for oil channels)
3. killed piston. upon opening, the obligatory replacement of the liner rings.

alleged problems
1.seed on the crankshaft in the oil seal area (there is no depletion and carbon deposits)
2. incorrectly seated pulley, which gives imbalance to the crankshaft.
3. oil
4.defective oil filter (third in a row)
5. somewhere we made a mistake during assembly.
6. to sin on the company that checked the cylinder head, etc. recheck again?

I ask for advice and help. it is possible that we are working in old-fashioned ways.
but for now we are contacting specialized firms for checking clearances, etc.
no problems were observed.

BASIC REMOVAL OPERATIONS

1. REMOVAL OF BY-PASS BOLTS

Attention
Hold the welded oil cooler tube nut while
loosening the bypass bolt.

Check that there is no foreign material between the plates
oil cooler.

Check oil cooler plates for bending or damage.

Check oil cooler tubes for cracks,
damage, clogging or wear.

BASIC INSTALLATION

12. INSTALLING THE OIL SUPPLY HOSE

/eleven. INSTALLING THE OIL DRAIN HOSE
/9. INSTALLING BYPASS BOLTS (WITH
ENGINE SIDE)

(1) Temporarily tighten the bypass bolts, and install the clamp so that

so that it touches the collars of the hoses.

(2) Fully tighten the bypass bolt on the oil drain

(3) Position the oil supply hose against the retainer, and

fully tighten the bypass bolt on the oil supply
hose.

Installing the radiator grill

Filling and checking engine oil

Withdrawal sequence
1. Overflow bolts
2. Gaskets
3. Oil cooler
4. Stand
5. Bracket
6. Oil cooler tube connections

7. Oil discharge pipe
8. Oil supply pipe
9. Overflow bolts
10. Gaskets
11. Oil drain hose
12. Oil supply hose

A small introductory video about repairing a V6 6g72 engine with your own strengths and skills. A small review of the Mitsubishi Pajero car.

My mail:

Music Austin Howard-Heaven Knows

I had three suction ports on 6G72 12 valves.

Damn, you better shoot and do not comment. you cannot connect two words.

And what happened to the oil system and what kind of oil you pour I switched to lukoil 5 w40 6 pumpkins walk without problems and before poured 10w60 well, very expensive mobile and lukoil affordable.

Natalya Shukhtueva pour idemitsu 5v40, tell me for a long time what and how, in other videos I showed it, but in general the oil burned down to shoe polish, the expansion joints, the pump died, it coked up. The sound was like a diesel engine, and 3 more valves got sick with dead compensators. Accordingly, there was a replacement for all this + belts and rollers, gaskets.

I had a belt break at a speed of 85-90 km, I did not even immediately understand what happened, but when I stopped I saw the timing belt protection on the right cylinder head that the belt ordered to live a long time for six hours everything worked, it's good when friends brought everything to the track what is needed, and in the field, everything was fixed and thanks to those who came up with an awesome Internet help. after drove in for diagnostics, they checked the compression all ok, so the dviglo is healthy, do not worry what is wrong. I am writing from my wife's computer.

Natalya Shukhtueva at the moment has already run off about 4 thousand and there are no problems 🙂 of course, I had to change the oil, which is not cheap, about 5 times so that the system was washed, but what to do. It's easier than capital.

We don't need female pussy, we bought Mitsubishi!

If the hydraulic lifters are knocking, is it better not to buy yourself such a podzhero?

IMHO, if the body and frame are intact and the documents are in order, then 200 is a gift, even if the engine is thrown away. A friend has the same diesel only, I took it for 250 a couple of years ago. As a result, the whole body is in holes, the frame is cooked, the number on the frame is rotten. You can ride, but not sell to anyone.

so it is elementary to insert new wetsuits and look at the bumpiness, it should not be there. To make them wear out to a bump, how should you not like a car? It is also possible that the book even has a footprint size, I cannot see now.

QWEMBO but what do you think to change the hydrics, but here I also looked at one review and the person says that if you change the hydrics, there will be wear on the rocker. In punishment can there be wear and tear?

If the motor pulls, as you write, it may be such that the wetsuits just welled up. This is a penny deal, of course. But I repeat, do the minimum that I wrote - God protects those who are careful. Checking the DHX as an additional option, it is still ringing out with a multimeter.

Well, in the worst case, if you have to change the motor 6g72 12v, then the contract costs about 50-80, depending on the greed (it happens with a box, there is also a Hyundai analogue).

As I said, the knock goes away after replacing and pumping all the compensators, low speed is DHH - a disease of these motors, because of low speed, it takes longer to warm up.

If you check for sure, then screw in the DXX obviously working, see the rpm, check the oil pressure, bubbles in the expansion tank during operation, compression - this is the minimum that will give the overall picture whether the engine is alive or not.

Wetsuits are also not the most stable thing on this motor, so they are often changed :) it's not scary. What else can be done, unscrew the old DXX carefully disassemble, blow through, rinse the WD-40 stock, maybe it still looks like it, it also fucks my brain, I need to change it :)

If the frame and body are on the docks and the condition is normal, the numbers are readable, then it is not the most difficult thing with the engine. I had a knock like real on a tractor, took it off, pumped new ones, and it died down. In the last videos, I voiced the conclusion.

Video (click to play).

Follow the minimum that I have voiced, and perhaps you will do without unnecessary hemorrhoids.

Rate the article:

Grade 3.2 who voted: 85