DIY Audi 80 B3 engine repair

Audi cars are of high quality, reliability and durability. However, over time, cars of this brand also need repair, not only body repairs, but also aggregate ones. Only if the engines of modern models are practically not amenable to repair, it is easier to simply change them in the event of any serious breakdowns, then the power plants of the Audi 80, regardless of modification, are repaired quite simply. And if you have the right tool and car mechanic skills, you can repair the engine yourself.

The Audi 80 car was produced from 1972 to 1996 and has always been popular among motorists. And today there are many admirers of this model among them, striving to maintain the "workhorse" in proper form. The most common problem of a million-dollar engine is the natural wear of the piston group. This is manifested by an extreme need for fuel and oil and a loss in performance. To repair an engine with this problem, you will need:

• a set of keys and heads, precision measuring instruments, a special puller for drying valves;

Attention! The set of tools may be standard, but the puller, which is usually used for a number of Vaz and Lad models, will not work, as it leaves unpleasant dents after it. And if there is no choice, then for such a puller it is necessary to come up with a cunning device that will help to avoid such a possibility. What kind of adaptation is required, you yourself will understand as you disassemble the engine.

• put the car in the pit and prepare a place for the installation of the power unit and its components;
• remove the engine and put it on the prepared place;
• free the crankcase from oil, remove the cylinder head, disconnect the pan and oil pump;
• now it is necessary to turn the motor in such a way as to displace the neck of the connecting rod of the first cylinder to the "dead center", that is, to the extreme lower position;
• further, using a perforator, mark the location of the connecting rod and its cap relative to the piston cylinder, after which you have the opportunity to unscrew the nuts and remove the lower cap of the connecting rod bearing;
• push the piston with the connecting rod through the top of the cylinder and mark its bearing cap so as not to be confused with other similar parts in the future;

Attention! It is most convenient to push out the connecting rod and piston with a hammer handle or other wooden rod of a suitable size.

• remove the rest of the connecting rods with pistons in the same way, each time noting the orientation of the connecting rods in relation to the front of the engine;
• to remove the connecting rods, remove the circlips in the piston pin bores and push them out.

Advice. If you are not going to change your fingers, then it is not recommended to push them out completely. By the way, to facilitate the process, you can heat the piston in hot water.

• further, free each piston from the rings, not forgetting to orient them correctly according to their location and noting which ring on the piston is the upper one;
• clean the removed rings and their grooves on the pistons from carbon deposits, this can be done with pieces of old rings. If they are in a tolerable condition, without obvious defects and damage, using precise instruments, measure the degree of wear of the piston group, as indicated in the manual for the repair and operation of your car;

_Attention! The wear rate must not exceed 4 mm. If the wear is greater, then replacing the piston rings will not be possible, it is necessary to bore the cylinders and install a new piston group. Even if only one piston needs to be bored, everything will have to be bored and all pistons will have to be replaced .___

To reassemble, you will need to do a hot water heating operation with each piston in order to insert the connecting rod back and push the finger in. Do not forget about the marks: the projections on the connecting rods and the marks on the piston heads must be facing the same direction, only then you can install the circlip!

Then we install the old ones, if they are in good condition or new rings, new rings are installed on new pistons (you should not use old parts on them). If during assembly you have doubts about the reliability of the connecting rod bearings, replace them with new ones. When assembling a piston group, old or new, do not forget to lubricate them abundantly, so you will make it easier for yourself to install pistons with connecting rods back into the cylinder head and save parts from wear when you first start the engine after repairs.

The reassembly of the cylinder head also begins with the first piston, and you also crank the engine so that its neck is in the lowest position. Lubricate the cylinder bore liberally and insert the first piston group (piston and connecting rod assembly) with an arrow to the front of the power unit. Lubricate the bearing shell liberally and close it with a lid. Lubricate the contact surfaces and tighten the nuts. We check again the correct orientation of the cover, turn the crankshaft, checking if there is free rotation. We repeat this procedure with each installed piston group, then install the pump, pallet and block head in place.

As you can see, with knowledge of some of the nuances, the presence of skills and tools, it is quite possible to repair the Audi 80 engine with your own hands. But if you doubt your capabilities, the specialists of the Stolitsa Automobile and Technical Center will help you in solving any problems with your favorite car.

1.What to start tuning Audi 80
2. How to increase power through tuning
3. Tuning the grille on the car
4. How to improve noise insulation
5. Tuning services
6. How to conduct economical tuning

If you are the owner of an Audi 80 and are thinking about how to increase the performance of the car and save money on repairs and maintenance of the car, then you need to familiarize yourself with the information on how the tuning of the Audi 80 is carried out and what basic features it provides. It should be noted right away that if you have the appropriate skills, you can carry out tuning work yourself, and if necessary, contact the service technicians for qualified support.

To perform some tuning work, special complex equipment and special devices are required, this should be taken into account when planning tuning work.

Before tuning the Audi 80, you need to bring the car to normal condition. For this, a high-quality visual inspection and regular technical inspection are carried out, aimed at timely identification of malfunctions and planning of car maintenance work. Visually inspecting the vehicle reveals that the engine is running low, the suspension requires maintenance, and the body needs to be protected from corrosion. All these problems can be solved before tuning the car. It is necessary to correct the main shortcomings, and only then proceed to tuning the car.

You should not resort to tuning when the suspension is about to fall apart, extra body kits will only put the suspension out of order before time. In this case, it is necessary to repair the suspension and only then proceed with tuning. By the way, at the stage of repair work, you can choose new wheels and tires for the car, which will significantly extend the service life of the wheelbase.

You can familiarize yourself with the video materials and photographic materials on the topic of tuning the Audi 80 in advance.

If you have been thinking about how to increase engine power for a long time, then it is worth considering that there are several tuning options that allow you to achieve high results. For example, tuning the Audi 80 and replacing the cylinder block with a more powerful one allows you to increase engine power. For replacement, you can take a cylinder block from a vehicle with a higher performance.Cylinders can be obtained from a Golf 2 9A, although they are more difficult to find than cylinder blocks from other cars.

If your plans include a serious increase in engine power, you can also convert the carburetor engine to an injection one. Despite the complexity of such work, the result will exceed expectations. To carry out high-quality tuning yourself, you will need a special lift, photos and videos on the topic of tuning. You can save a lot of time by seeking support from qualified technicians.

If you have a desire, you can include cylinder bore in tuning the Audi 80, which will also increase the power of the power unit. The total volume of the engine can eventually be increased to 2 liters. As a result, you can expect the engine power to rise to 150 hp. During this tuning process, you will need to replace the intake and exhaust system. However, for such work, you will need qualified support. As a result of the increase in the power of the power unit, you will need to measure the conventional disc brakes. This is also included in the tuning of the Audi 80 and allows for a better result.

Getting acquainted with the video materials on tuning the Audi 80, you can note that in the process of tuning, car owners also restore the front grille. If you also wish to tune the grille, you should cut out the entire interior of the grille and leave only the frame. It is recommended to use a suitable metal hacksaw. You can remove irregularities after this work if you put a special nozzle on the drill and walk over the irregularities. Paint prior to plastic must also be removed.

Further tuning of the Audi 80 continues with the purchase of a new radiator grill. You will also need to purchase degreasing wipes, black plastic paint, and putty. It is necessary to degrease the frame and putty it so that you end up with a flat surface. After the putty is dry, the frame needs to be sanded. It usually takes several hours for the putty to dry, depending on the ambient temperature. Then, in the upper part of the frame, on the remnants of the ribs of the middle part, it is necessary to make cuts, into which it is necessary to insert a new grating. You can paint the frame with two or three coats of new paint.

The new grate must be sized to fit the frame so that it can be inserted into the cuts and secured with wire. On the sides, you can cut off all unnecessary using the same hacksaw for metal. After such manipulations, the grille is ready for full installation in place. As you can see from this material, tuning the Audi 80 is great for transforming the look of an old car.

If while driving a car you hear how the body rattles and the engine works, then you should think about replacing the noise insulation. As the main materials used to improve the noise insulation characteristics of a car, vibration damper and noise absorber are most often used. Using these tuning materials, you will significantly improve your car and extend its service life. From the materials on the topic of tuning, you can judge that you can do anything you want with an old car. You can turn it into a convertible and completely change the doors, you can install new body kits and significantly improve the environmental class of the car.

If you are just planning on tuning your Audi 80, start with the following steps:

• find relevant materials on the topic;
• check the technical condition of the car and conduct an external inspection;
• eliminate the main faults and decide in which direction you will work;
• enlist the support of tuning professionals to provide the necessary advice on the topic.

After completing the preparatory work, it is necessary to determine the scope of work and choose a place for tuning. This can be your own garage or a professional workshop. In the first case, you must have a viewing hole or a special lift.In the second case, tuning is carried out by professionals, you need to tell about your preferences and choose the best tuning option. If you are concerned about the environmental friendliness of your car, you can upgrade your emission control system to a more advanced one. As a result, you can achieve a higher environmental class. After buying a car, you may notice that there is rust on the metal, which leads to corrosion. You can avoid this problem by polishing the body and external tuning.

Tuning Audi 80 provides ample opportunities to improve the operating parameters of the car. You can determine the scope of work and in a short time extend the service life of the main components, achieve higher power from the engine and solve problems, for example, increasing damping. It is recommended to start tuning the car with the simplest - with external tuning, which is carried out in relation to the headlights, body in order to mask the newly installed equipment on the car.

In addition to replacing the grille on the radiator, you can use such a tuning element as suspension reinforcement. Reinforced suspension stiffness extends the service life of the shock absorbers and eliminates squeaks and vibrations. These tuning works include disassembling the rear and front axles and installing new plates that will significantly improve the vehicle's damping characteristics.

You can tune the Audi 80 at no extra cost if you create a retro car based on your car, which will have an attractive appearance and a set of spare parts from other cars, which together will increase performance. In any case, when planning a tuning, you should calculate your budget. Full-fledged tuning is sometimes comparable to the price of a car overhaul. However, a tuned car has a number of advantages: an increased service life of the main components, an attractive appearance and the possibility of saving on scheduled repairs and maintenance of the car. For the modern driver, these factors are essential when planning tuning.

Economical tuning of the Audi 80 can be carried out if you use not new parts and consumable components, but previously used parts with better performance characteristics. You need to make sure that the new component to be installed on the vehicle is compatible. Often on the tuning forums, you can read recommendations from car service specialists on the topic of what equipment and parts are suitable for performing tuning work. The information provided will be useful to you if you want to achieve from tuning not only the improvement of the operating parameters of the car, but also the creation of conditions for high-quality and safe driving.

However, tuning the Audi 80 opens up ample opportunities to improve your car. It all depends on what tasks are set for these works, and in what conditions the car will be used in the future. The advantage of high-quality tuning is that the car owner manages to significantly increase the cost of the car and count on a higher cost of selling the car in the future. This applies when you are selling a used vehicle through a showroom or through the marketplace. Buyers are paying close attention to cars with manual tuning elements, which significantly increase the attractiveness of the car and improve performance.

One of the most attractive areas of tuning has recently been considered airbrushing, which involves the application of colorful drawings to various parts of the body. Airbrushing has several advantages.Firstly, it allows you to protect the car body from corrosion due to high-quality paints and varnishes that are used for drawing pictures. Secondly, airbrushing is used to hide minor defects in body finishing; you should not pay special attention to the fact that many auto sellers refuse to repair and paint and resort to airbrushing. Audi 80 tuning and airbrushing in particular is used to make the car's appearance more attractive. This is necessary for a car owner who wants to stand out from others with his unusual car.

You can do airbrushing yourself if you have the appropriate skills or with the support of professionals who will perform all the work with high quality and provide the necessary guarantees. Therefore, if you have an Audi 80 in your garage, and you want to transform the appearance of the car and increase its reliability, then use the tuning tips and make your car unique. Today, hundreds of companies work on the tuning studio market, but you need to entrust your car to real professionals. Otherwise, the money invested will not pay off, and the result will forever make you doubt the need for tuning.

Quality tuning is a broad area that can achieve a wide variety of goals, from changing the appearance of a car to complex improvements.

Having set yourself the task of tuning, you can determine the scope of work and plan them in such a way as to achieve a high-quality final result.

And the resulting savings on maintenance and repairs will allow you to use new methods of tuning your car.

User

16 posts

Registration 11-December 12

• Audi Model: A80
• Body: B3
• Engine: SF
• Volume (V): 1.8
• Box: MKPP
• Drive type: front
• Year of issue: 1987
• City: Naberezhnye Chelny

I bought an Audi 80 a week ago, under restoration, so to speak, so that it would not be boring in winter. Having driven a little, I decided to spend kapitalku the engine because oil eats, smokes, does not keep the speed and a lot of things. At first I thought that the masseurs were the culprits, but most likely the matter is also in the rings. And in one case, clean the internal combustion engine from 25-year-old carbon deposits. For 260 thousand runs, not a single capital. I ask a question to the comrades who did this, how difficult is this thing? Hands do not grow out of w * py, engineering education behind you is why not? I would like to know incrementally:

1. Preparation.
2. Required tool.
3. Step-by-step analysis.
4. Subtleties and nuances so as not to mess up.
5. Replacement.

I say right away it's not about saving money on maintenance.

Audi 80 1987 onwards 75 h.p. 1781 cm 3

Post has been edited by Stanton: December 11, 2012 - 22:00

Indigenous

9802 posts

Registration 29-March 09

• Audi Model: Audi 80
• Body: B4
• Engine: ADA
• Volume (V): 1.6
• Box: MKPP
• Drive type: front
• Year of issue: 1994
• Moscow city

Stanton (Dec 11, 2012 - 21:54) wrote:

I bought an Audi 80 a week ago, under restoration, so to speak, so that it would not be boring in winter. Having driven a little, I decided to spend kapitalku the engine because oil eats, smokes, does not keep the speed and a lot of things. At first I thought that the masseurs were the culprits, but most likely the matter is also in the rings. And in one case, clean the internal combustion engine from 25-year-old carbon deposits. For 260 thousand runs, not a single capital. I ask a question to the comrades who did this, how difficult is this thing? Hands do not grow out of w * py, engineering education behind you is why not? I would like to know incrementally:

1. Preparation.
2. Required tool.
3. Step-by-step analysis.
4. Subtleties and nuances so as not to mess up.

Audi 80 1987 onwards 75 h.p. 1781 cm 3

User

16 posts

Registration 11-December 12

• Audi Model: A80
• Body: B3
• Engine: SF
• Volume (V): 1.8
• Box: MKPP
• Drive type: front
• Year of issue: 1987
• City: Naberezhnye Chelny

Post has been edited by Stanton: December 11, 2012 - 22:11

Indigenous

9802 posts

Registration 29-March 09

• Audi Model: Audi 80
• Body: B4
• Engine: ADA
• Volume (V): 1.6
• Box: MKPP
• Drive type: front
• Year of issue: 1994
• Moscow city

Stanton (Dec 11, 2012 - 22:08) wrote:

User

16 posts

Registration 11-December 12

• Audi Model: A80
• Body: B3
• Engine: SF
• Volume (V): 1.8
• Box: MKPP
• Drive type: front
• Year of issue: 1987
• City: Naberezhnye Chelny

normal compression

User

16 posts

Registration 11-December 12

• Audi Model: A80
• Body: B3
• Engine: SF
• Volume (V): 1.8
• Box: MKPP
• Drive type: front
• Year of issue: 1987
• City: Naberezhnye Chelny

Vinni58 (December 11, 2012 - 22:30) wrote:

Now about what was bought and for how much:
1. Used exhaust valve 1pc. - 200 rubles.
2. Oil scraper seals (set) - 100 rubles.
3. Cylinder head gasket - 550 rubles.
4. Valve cover gasket - 350 rubles.
5. Knee oil seals. shaft, junction box shaft, intermediate. shaft (4 pcs.) - 700 rubles.
6. Spark plugs (set) - 200 rubles.
7. Inserts connecting rod (set) - 700 rubles.
8. Clutch disc Luk - 2000 rubles.
9. Oil pressure sensor - 100 rubles.
10. Oil filter 2 pcs. - 200 rubles.
11. Semi-synthetic motor oil 5 liters - 900 rubles.
12. Piston rings (set) - 1200 rubles.
13. Valve guides 4 pcs. - 200 rubles.
Total: 7400 rubles.

The cost of the above works can range from 9,000 rubles. up to 12,000 rubles, depending on the "severity" of the case. Of course, making repairs yourself can save up to 60% of costs.

* The device of the hydraulic compensator and its work.

Photo 1 shows the external view of the expansion joint and the expansion joint in section.

Photo1

Rice. one

The main parts of the hydraulic compensator (Fig. 1) are: body, plunger pair, plunger spring and check valve.
The body can be (depending on the design of the valve drive) a cylindrical pusher, a rocker arm or part of the cylinder head.
The plunger pair consists of:
1. Bushings that ensure the movement of the plunger in a strictly specified direction. The gap between them is 5-8 microns to ensure tightness.
2. Plunger - a steel cylinder, in the lower part of which there is a hole connecting the cavities inside the plunger and below it. Some single-arm lever designs use a plunger without an internal cavity, and the top of the plunger is shaped like a spherical head and serves as a support.
The plunger spring is located between it and the sleeve (in the cavity under the plunger).
The check valve is in most cases a steel spring-loaded ball.
The work of the hydraulic compensator.
The scheme of operation of the hydraulic compensator, the body of which is the pusher, is shown in Fig. 2.

Distribution cam the shaft, turned to the pusher by the back side, does not transfer force to it and the plunger spring pushes the plunger out of the bushing, choosing a gap. Oil from the lubrication system enters the increased volume of the cavity under the plunger through the ball valve. After filling it, the ball valve closes under the action of its spring.
Turning the convex side to the follower, the cam begins to move it down. At this moment, the hydraulic compensator transmits the force to the timing valve as a “rigid” element, since the ball valve is closed, and the oil in the closed cavity under the plunger is practically not compressed.
When the pusher and, accordingly, the plunger pair move downward, a small part of the oil is squeezed out through the gaps from the cavity under the plunger. The length of the hydraulic compensator is slightly reduced and a gap h is formed between the cam and the follower. Leaks are compensated for by an additional portion of oil from the engine lubrication system.
Expansion of parts during heating leads to a change in the volume of the “replenishing” portion of oil and the length of the hydraulic compensator, ie, it automatically “selects” the gap both from thermal expansion and from wear of timing parts.

A story about how we “emptied” the hydraulic lifter.

We take the hydraulic compensator in our hand so that the oil supply hole is located at the bottom. In the other hand we take a syringe with a needle, filled with air. We insert the needle into the oil supply hole of the hydraulic compensator and press on the syringe. Engine oil is leaking from the hole. This frees the oil from the supra-plunger area.Next, you need to "squeeze" the hydraulic compensator, ie remove oil from the sub-plunger space. To do this, we clamp the compensator in a vice with the oil inlet opening downwards, after placing an 11 mm head from the 3/8 'or 1/2' set under the plunger sleeve. We squeeze the vice. Oil flows out of the hole, which is squeezed out by a vice from the sub-plunger space through the ball valve. Letting go of the vice. We repeat the procedure 2-3 more times until the oil stops flowing through the hole. After that, we take out the compensator from the vice. The plunger should easily, effortlessly move in the body of the hydraulic lifter when pressed with the thumb. That's it, now the hydraulic lifter is “empty”.
The same actions must be carried out with the rest of the hydraulic lifters.

Administrator's addition: 8-valve Opel engines (or maybe 16-valve ones - I did not disassemble it myself) are equipped with hydraulic lifters of the “g” type (see Fig. 1). When compressing such a hydraulic compensator, it is enough to push a wire or an awl into the upper hole and squeeze the valve ball down.

(The article uses the material of the reference book "Useful pages", issue 8, 2001, publishing house "Za Rulem").

From the site administrator: this article was posted on the opelevsky resource, because most of Us drive cars with internal combustion engines, and many internal combustion engines are equipped with hydraulic lifters and gas equipment. and in general all people are brothers :-)))).

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Crankshaft and block of cylinders Warning

Tighten with a torque wrench only. Using a ratchet wrench may cause damage.

Cylinder block assembly (4-cylinder models)

1. Bolts
2. Liners of the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th main bearing
are installed in the caps 1, 2 and 5 of the main bearings without an oil groove, and in the cap of the 4th bearing with a meat groove
3. Gasket
must be replaced
4. Front oil seal holder
5. Oil seal
6.20 N.m
7. O-ring
if damaged, replace
8.25 N.m.
9. Oil seal
remove the oil seal from the body with a 10-203 puller
Before installation, lightly lubricate the working and outer edges of the gland
10. Oil seal housing
11. Intermediate shaft
first remove the ignition distributor

Crankshaft dimensions (1.6 liter engine)

Crankshaft dimensions (1.8 liter engine)

Crankshaft dimensions (2.0 liter engine)

Camshaft drive belt, installation Warning

It is not allowed to turn the crankshaft and camshaft with the toothed belt removed, as the pistons could be damaged by the valve heads.

Installation of the crankshaft in the TDC position is not allowed.

Timing Belt Assembly (4-Cylinder Models)

When replacing the engine, cylinder head, head gasket, engine radiator and heater, do not refill the drained coolant.

Gaskets and seals must be replaced.

If metal chips are found in the oil from wear of engine parts, thoroughly clean the oil channels, replace the oil cooler and oil filter.

Incomplete cylinder blocks are shipped with the crankshaft pilot bearing installed. Remove the pilot bearing when mounting the engine on an automatic transmission model.

Replacement of worn out liners is not allowed. Cylinder head assembly

install shim 2 if necessary

Tighten with a torque wrench with a dial gauge. Tightening with a ratchet wrench may break. replace bolts. The threads of the new bolts are pre-lubricated with an anti-loosening compound

Application of the timing mark of the ignition timing

When replacing the clutch flywheel / drive plate, it is necessary to apply a timing mark for the ignition timing. The new flywheel only has a TDC mark (0 degrees).

Removal / installation of a flywheel / torque converter

Removing the pilot bearing

Installing the pilot bearing using impact puller VW 207 or 3176

Despite the fact that the last "eighty" Audi rolled off the assembly line almost two decades ago, or rather, in 1996, you can still find many cars of this family on our roads. Of course, very ancient rare copies, produced in the seventies, have long been used only as exhibits of technical museums and private auto collections. However, cars with the index B3, B4 are still quite intensively operated by many domestic motorists.

Taking into account advanced age Audi 80 b3 repair this favorite of summer residents and fans of life on wheels is gaining special relevance. The simplicity of the design of the car is one of its main advantages, thanks to which it has gained popularity among millions of motorists in various countries.

The mechanic, who is familiar with the front-wheel drive Togliatti models, will easily understand the structure of the "barrel", as the people call the "eighty". There are also enough spare parts for cars of this family, both branded and not quite. In extreme cases, when repairing, maintaining or modernizing the "eighties", you can use parts from the products of the domestic auto industry.

A lot is suitable. For example, the rims are exactly the same as those of the Moskvich-2141, the suspension and clutch elements are perfect from VAZ cars. Thus, it is appropriate to talk about the high degree of maintainability of the "eighty" as one of its main trump cards. Armed with the necessary arsenal of wrenches, screwdrivers of various sizes and configurations of the working part, it will not be difficult to independently disassemble the entire nose of the car.

The doors also open freely into a pair of independent segments with a few light movements of the screwdriver. And lighting fixtures can be replaced on their own in a few minutes. It all does repair and maintenance of Audi 80 b3 business simple and even somewhat pleasant. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why this model has not yet ended up in the dustbin of history.

As for the list of the most common malfunctions, then it is rather short:

• Possible problems of heating and ventilation systems
• Broken steering gear
• Ignition malfunctions due to a sufficiently old age of the car
• Malfunctions of the brake system
• And the most vulnerable place of the "eighties" is the suspension

According to experienced craftsmen, the "barrel" is devoid of any purely individual, characteristic exclusively for this model of breakdowns and defects. Of course, German engines, like all other powertrains, are afraid of overheating, the use of low-grade fuel and lubricants, underfilling and irregular maintenance.

The cooling system requires constant monitoring of the level and chemical purity of antifreeze. Although many, in order to save money, pour Tosol into the car, it is not recommended to do this in order to avoid the failure of the unit and, accordingly, the need repairing his iron friend Audi 80 b3.

Electrical equipment and even more so electronics in the "barrel" is much less than in modern high-tech cars. In addition, all the electrics of the "eighties" are distinguished by excellent operational reliability and durability.

Increased attention is required mainly to the fuel supply system. Since the "barrel" is a car of the carburetor type, it is usually equipped with complex aggregates of two types:

These carburetors, having swallowed low-grade "dirty" fuel, show their capricious character, causing functional failures and arrhythmias in the operation of the power unit. A system of nozzles and a fuel pump "barrels" equipped with a KE-Jetronic fuel injection mechanism have the unpleasant property of being clogged with solid deposits contained in low-quality combustible substances.

Therefore, it is necessary to strictly monitor the quality of the used fuel and lubricants and other process fluids. This is the key to the operational durability of the machine.According to the masters, most of the problems in the operation of reliable German engines, which are equipped with "eighties" with the B3 index, are associated with the fact that some careless drivers, in order to "match" economy, fill the tank of their car with outright rubbish.

Basically, the suspension is the weak point of all Audi cars. However, this is due not so much to any structural defects of German cars, but to the frank uselessness of most domestic roads. "Barrel" is a car of a rather old age, so problems with the suspension are extremely common for it.

The very design of this mechanism allows you to carry out all repair work in parts and replace parts separately. If any element breaks down, it will need to be replaced. In no case should you resort to editing and restoration of a broken part. The main functional part of the suspension is the shock absorber strut. Therefore, all repairs, as a rule, consist in her dismantling and replacement.

This procedure is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. The vehicle is parked on a level horizontal surface, and then the fastener (bolt or nut) located in the center of the hub is unscrewed
2. The remaining wheel bolts are methodically loosened
3. The car is jacked up to the same height on both sides
4. Then the stabilizer post is disconnected from the transverse suspension arm
5. The brake caliper is removed
6. The clamping bolt of the hinge device located at the bottom of the stabilizer bar is removed.
7. The steering linkage articulated drive is disconnected
8. The pry bar is used to remove the suspension rod from the shock absorber strut
9. Next, a puller is installed, with which the drive shaft is removed from the hub
10. And finally, in the engine compartment, the cap is removed from the dome of the shock absorber

Such work on repair of the suspension on the Audi 80 b3 can be carried out by one person in a garage. In general, the old "eighties" are surprisingly strong, hardy, maintainable and friendly machines.