It is very difficult to visually distinguish the engine modification, since not the same intake manifolds are used, and resonators appear and disappear in the exhaust tract, one or two oxygen sensors are installed.
At the time of the creation of the B20B, the internal combustion engine was considered the best in the world. No engine of a serial civilian car had such a power index of 100 hp / 1000 cm3 of volume. Such powerful powertrains were installed either on sports cars or on motorcycles.
The disadvantage is the lack of hydraulic compensators, due to which the user has to adjust the thermal clearances of the valves with a frequency of 30-40 thousand kilometers. According to the drivers' ratings, the B20B motor has +5 points.
The B20B engine was designed for operation in the following models of the auto manufacturer Honda:
The unique characteristics of the engine make it possible to use it for swap (complete replacement) of vehicles of any other manufacturers.
Initially, the B20B engine is unpretentious in operation, however, maximum service life can be achieved by following the maintenance schedule:
After mechanical tuning, the maintenance periods are fully preserved, and when the turbine is installed, their frequency increases by at least 30%.
In addition to the fact that the B20B motor does not bend the valve, its design has no defects. Possible malfunctions occur only after 150 thousand kilometers:
The cost of a contract B20B is quite low, therefore, the power drive is often completely changed without overhaul.
Since the B20B engine is the only option without phase control in the Honda B series, tuning in 90% of cases consists in installing VTEC from a B18 or B16 engine. At the same time, there are nuances:
VIDEO
The output is guaranteed to get a little more than 200 liters. With. To further increase the characteristics of the engine, mechanical tuning is used:
replacement of standard pistons with Wiseco products to ensure a compression ratio of 12 units;
porting (channel grinding) of the cylinder head;
installation of lightweight valves and camshafts Skunk2 Stage2;
increasing the diameter of the damper, installing the Skunk2 receiver;
use of high-performance injectors, for example, 300cc;
installation of a Walbro fuel pump with a capacity of 255 l / h;
modernization of the exhaust tract by means of a 4/1 or 4/2/1 spider with a direct flow of 55 - 63 mm.
In this version, the tuning will provide more than 240 hp. with., but the budget for the modernization of the engine will sharply increase. Even with mechanical tuning, the B20B ICE outperforms motors of a similar class with a turbine or a different type of supercharger.
Thus, the B20B motor has parameters of 180 - 180 Nm of torque, 125 - 150 hp. With. power and 8.8 - 9.6 units of the compression ratio of the mixture. The manufacturer provides a capacity of up to 240 - 300 liters. With. for customization by the user. The engine is considered one of the best, despite its discontinuation back in 2002.
The car is equipped with a gasoline, four-stroke, four-cylinder, in-line, sixteen-valve liquid-cooled engine.
The technical condition of the engine depends on the vehicle mileage, the timeliness of periodic maintenance, the quality of the used operating materials, as well as the quality of the repair.
The condition of the engine should be monitored regularly during the operation of the vehicle. Signs of malfunctions can be: presence of oil droplets in the parking lot of the car; the warning lamp of the engine management system or the warning lamp of the emergency oil pressure comes on; the appearance of extraneous sound (noise, knocking) when the engine is running; smoky exhaust; moving the arrow of the temperature indicator to the red zone; increased oil consumption, noticeable loss of power. If at least one of the listed signs is detected, it is necessary to conduct a more detailed check. Checking the technical condition of various engine systems is shown in the corresponding sections of the chapter.
It is possible to assess the technical condition of the engine with sufficient accuracy by external signs and using the available equipment (compression gauge, pressure gauge to check the pressure in the engine lubrication system).
A compressometer is required to do the job.
Checking by external signs
Operating the vehicle with insufficient oil pressure in the lubrication system will result in serious engine damage.To avoid personal injury, when performing the following operation, do not touch the moving parts of the engine (pulleys, belt) and do not touch the hot parts of the engine.
4. After warming up the engine, listen to its work.
A clattering ringing sound under the cylinder head cover, as a rule, indicates increased gaps in the valve drive, uniform noise in the timing belt area may indicate wear on the tension roller or coolant pump bearing. The knocks in the lower part of the cylinder block and on the side of the oil pan, which increase with increasing crankshaft speed, are caused by a malfunction of the main bearings. At the same time, as a rule, the oil pressure in the lubrication system is low. At idle, this sound has a low tone, and as the rpm rises, its tone rises. When the gas pedal is pressed sharply, the engine emits something similar to a growl - like "gyr-rr". The ringing knocks in the middle of the cylinder block are caused by malfunctioning connecting rod bearings. The rhythmic metal knocking at the top of the cylinder block, which is audible in all engine operating modes and increases under load, is caused by a malfunction of the piston pins. A muffled knock at the top of the cylinder block on a cold engine, which dies down and disappears when warmed up, can be caused by worn pistons and cylinders. Operating the vehicle with faulty bearings and pins will damage the engine.
6. If the oil consumption has increased, but no traces of leakage are found, then:
Engine operation with a worn-out piston-cylinder group, faulty oil seals, or low-quality fuel leads to premature failure of the catalytic converter and oxygen concentration sensor.
Compression check
Measurements must be carried out with a fully charged battery, otherwise the reading will be incorrect. In a working engine, the compression in the cylinders must be at least 930 kPa, and the difference in compression between the cylinders must be no more than 200 kPa.
8. We memorize or write down the readings of the compressometer and reset the device.
You can try to eliminate the valves stuck with special preparations poured into the fuel tank or directly into the engine cylinders (see "Instructions" to the preparation).The tightness of the valves can be checked with compressed air at a pressure of 200-300 kPa, supplied through the spark plug holes. It is necessary to supply air with this position of the camshafts when all four valves of the cylinder under test are closed. Air will exit through the exhaust system if one of the exhaust valves is faulty, and if one of the intake valves is faulty, then through the throttle assembly. If the piston group is faulty, then the air will come out through the oil filler neck. Air bubbles escaping through the coolant in the expansion tank indicate a defective cylinder head gasket.
Checking the oil pressure
In a serviceable engine warmed up to operating temperature, the oil pressure at idle speed should be at least 70 kPa, and the oil pressure at a high crankshaft speed should be 340 kPa. The engine needs overhaul if the pressure is below normal. If the oil pressure is higher than normal at high engine speed, then the (pressure reducing) relief valve of the oil pump is probably faulty.
A cylinder head gasket (better in a set of gaskets), a pan gasket, connecting rod bushings (do not take the indigenous ones since you won’t remove the engine), oil seals and piston rings. Head bolts if possible. A box of beer and tools in hands.
Remove and drain everything that interferes, loosen the boss, unscrew the boss, clean the boss, disassemble the boss, grind the valve and change the caps.
Well, since you repair it yourself, then there will be no problems, if your hands are correct.
The B20B engine is the most popular and most voluminous representative of the Honda B series (B16, B17, B18), which is based on an aluminum cylinder block with steel liners. The B20B has a block height of 212 mm, a crankshaft of 89 mm, a connecting rod length of 137 mm and a piston height of 30 mm.
The motor is extremely simple, there is no VTEC variable valve timing system, but through simple manipulations this issue is resolved, more on that later.
The B20B engine had some variations, the very first ones came in a 128-strong performance, after 1998 the power increased to 147 hp, the Japanese women were more powerful - 145 hp, from 1998 - 150 hp.
The B20V engine was produced until 2001, then it was replaced by a more modern K20A.
The most common, rational and, indeed, driving type of tuning for the B20B is the installation of a VTEC cylinder head from the B16. Such transformations will significantly increase the efficiency of the engine and its power, without serious damage to the resource, reliability, etc. To do this, you need a head from B16 or B18 assembly. Also ARP studs, Hondata for tuning and various small things, we will get more than 200 hp at the output. To squeeze the motor to the end, we change the pistons to WISECO (or others) for a compression ratio of 12 (or more). We do head porting, Skunk2 Stage 2 camshafts, light valves, cold inlet with a large damper, Skunk2 receiver (or other). We purchase injectors with a capacity of 300-360 cc, a Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, 4-2-1 exhaust on a 63 pipe. As a result, we get about 240 atmospheric forces, on standard shafts smaller, on even more evil ones. But you shouldn't twist too much either.
For an even more hellish wallow, you can turbanut the above configuration. Pre-change the pistons to others, at a low degree (about 8.5). Buy Carrillo connecting rods, lighter shafts (standard or stage 1), 550 cc injectors (or more). On ebay, choose the turbo kit you like with an intercooler and all the accompanying ones, set it up, adjust it and inflate it for 300 hp. ... This should definitely be enough, but you need to remember, increasing the power, it is worth taking care of the rest of the car's components. The financial costs of building powerful cramps will not be childish. But if you still achieve this, then it's a sin not to use the full power of Japanese engineering off-road. But for this, find out how to increase the ground clearance of a Honda srv in simple ways here.
Think engine overhaul is a headache? You think correctly. But when you find out how much they take for work, your head will stop hurting and your hands will start to work. Because for that kind of money, three engines can be repaired. This means that we will save money and master the overhaul on our own.
As you drove along, the engine of your beloved iron horse suddenly knocked. Don't be in a hurry to immediately grab the "capital". We must first check everything.
First, let's immediately determine that this is not an engine bulkhead, when it was disassembled, cleaned, changed gaskets and assembled. There are already more serious reasons. So, let's pay attention to the prerequisites:
How old is the car? How long has she already run? Foreign or domestic car? If the car is more than 10 years old, it is domestic, for example "Zhiguli" or "Moskvich", then its limit is 150 thousand kilometers. For a foreign car - up to 300. Perhaps, the resource of your car is exhausted, and for this reason the power has decreased.
Let's see what's wrong with the oil. Yeah, the pressure has dropped again, while the car is bursting oil shamelessly - another reason for repairs.
We check the compression, since this is the main parameter that influences the choice - whether a major overhaul is or is not needed. We take a compressometer from friends, take measurements. For example, in our case, out of four indicators in one, instead of eight, there is already five - which means that the time has come for a major overhaul.
Of course, with information. We take out a manual, in which it is reported in detail and with diagrams how to repair your particular brand of car. We find on the Internet a catalog in which there are spare parts for this car, in order to immediately determine the prices and, possibly, place an order in the online store.
keys - ratchet, torque;
mandrels for coupling pistons, caps;
desiccant for valves;
micrometer;
heads;
device for adjusting valves;
two-legged or three-legged puller;
stethoscope;
tweezers;
support stand;
hydraulic chain hoist;
a set of pullers.
We drive the car into the garage. We remove the battery. Disconnect the hood so that it does not interfere.
We carefully drain all liquids: antifreeze, oil. To do this, instead of bolts on the radiator and the cylinder block, we install faucets - they are sold in any car dealership - and drain them using hoses into the prepared container.
Considering the age of the car, we very carefully disconnect the wiring, connectors, tubes, hoses, etc., so that they do not crumble in our hands, nothing is damaged or cut off. And then some craftsmen still repair the wiring, the cooling system.
We remove without haste everything that can interfere with getting the engine: air filter, carburetor, gas pump - do not forget to screw the bolt, oil separator, distributor, cylinder block cover, camshaft, cylinder head studs, and then the head block, crankcase protection, generator with belt, fan, radiator. We unscrew the bolts that secure the engine. The engine can now be removed.
Before you get to the insides of the engine and start doing the overhaul, try to safely remove it from the car. Call an assistant - you can't do it alone.
Prepare four tires by stacking them on top of each other. Place two pieces of wood on top. Then lay the engine on them.
Now fix the talcum powder, i.e. the lift, to the ceiling beam, it can be attached to the tripod by positioning it above the hood.
Do you know how much the engine weighs? How do you like an aggregate of 140 kilograms? Serious thing? It is clear that you cannot lift it with your hands, and if it falls down, you cannot do without injury. To prevent this from happening, be extremely careful, check the attachment of the talcum powder, and only then start lifting.
Carefully, without too much fuss, pull the engine up, bring it to the stack of tires that have already been laid out in front of the car, lower it, turn it over so that the crankcase is on top, on wooden blocks.
When disassembling, remember or mark somewhere where you are shooting from and where the part was originally located, so that later there will not be superfluous ones, like some homemade ones.
Start gutting the flywheel: first remove the clutch, then get to the crankcase boot. Go to the oil filter. After unscrewing the fasteners, remove the bolts and remove the crankcase, being careful not to break the oil intake.
Now remove the front and rear covers of the block together with the oil seal. Take care of the piglet sprocket, remove it using a puller. Go to the chain stop and unscrew, remove the tensioner shoe, and then the chain, the crankshaft sprocket.
Go to the crankshaft. Remove the nuts from the connecting rod caps, then the caps, carefully pull out the pistons, remove the liners, carefully inspect them for reuse. If you can no longer use them, take a sample and buy new ones from a specialist store or from the car market. Just first decide whether you need a groove for the necks, and only then fit the liners under them. Take out the crankshaft with persistent half rings.
Remove piglet, oil pump and its drive gear. Turn over, placing it sideways, remove the pistons with connecting rods from the cylinders. Buy a new piston system according to the old model. You still need to contact a car repair shop.
Take new pistons, let the block be bored under them, and also grind the crankshaft and press the piston pins. Measure with a micrometer the crankshaft journal, look in the manual for what size the earbuds should be, buy them. If you choose the correct liners, you will be able to rotate the crankshaft by hand - this will be the fit test.
Begin assembly by removing carbon deposits. Remove all metal shavings, rinse the beds, lubricate them and the liners with engine oil, reinstall, referring to the manual. On the rear wall of the block, place thrust half rings so that the grooves are turned on the plane of the crankshaft.
Now you can replace the crankshaft with liners and covers, checking the marking guide, the places where the locks are located. Make sure they are all on the same side. Take a torque wrench, tighten the bolts, turn the crankshaft - if it turns easily, then everything is in order. Otherwise, replace the earbuds with thinner ones.
Ask in the workshop to assemble the piston, because you yourself will not be able to heat the connecting rod heads to more than 100 degrees, but you need to heat up over 200.Check the process.
Now carefully lubricate the piston pins through the holes, throw in the piston rings without haste, make sure that the slots, holes are preserved, tighten the mandrel with a wrench. Lay the block on its side, insert the piston with the connecting rod, not forgetting the markings.
Take a wooden block and, gently knocking, push the piston into the cylinder. Flip the block over to its original position, but do it so that the crankshaft is at the top. Tighten the bolts.
Lightly begin to pull the connecting rods to the necks. Then rotate the crankshaft to make sure everything is set correctly and the liners do not need to be changed. Now you can tighten the bolts.
Put a new oil seal on the cover, install it on the block, pre-coat the joints with sealant. Proceed with installing the clutch boot and flywheel. Remember that the flywheel groove must be turned to the fourth knee of the crankshaft - this is important.
Now install the sprocket, piglet, tensioner shoe, front oil seal, oil pump, flywheel clutch.
Finally, you can install the engine and bolt it. Tighten carefully to avoid stripping threads or bursting parts. Return the pump, generator, radiator, fuel pump to their original places, connect the wires, hoses, terminals, check the fastening strength.
As soon as an overhaul of the engine is completed, it is imperative to carry out a cold run-in before installing it on the car. This is done so that the new parts rub against each other, and is carried out in passive, bench mode or in hard towing, when, due to the movement of the wheels, the crankshaft starts to spin and a cold break-in occurs.
So, in the garage, connect the hoses for the air filter, cooling system, oil supply, outlet to the engine. Install the plugs. Connect the unit to an electric motor.
Fill in the coolant that was drained during disassembly, heating it to 85 degrees, then oil heated to 80 degrees. At low revs, from 600 to 1000, let the engine run for 2 minutes, at high revs, from 1200 to 1400, for 5 minutes.
Before the car has run two and a half thousand kilometers, do not accelerate sharply, pick up speed gradually, do not overload the engine.
After the first run, drain the oil, replacing it with a clean one, but of the same brand (preferably).
Now you are convinced that a do-it-yourself engine overhaul is possible and profitable, because it costs three times cheaper. In addition, it will allow you to operate the car for several more years as a result of extending the resource, prevent unexpected breakdowns on the road, and help avoid an accident.
The following video will tell you what spare parts are needed for the overhaul of the VAZ 2103 engine:
VIDEO
One of the most common powertrains that were installed in Honda cars at the turn of the millennium are the twin-shaft B family, and the B20B engine is generally considered one of the most reliable in the company's history. It was they who equipped most of the models, which include such masterpieces of the Japanese car industry as the CR-V and StepWGN, as well as Orthia and S-MX.
In-line four-cylinder internal combustion engines of the "B" family were introduced to the world in 1988. Unlike D-engines, which had, first of all, one camshaft and were mainly intended for more economical use, gasoline B-engines were performed in two versions - both with one and with two camshafts.
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In general, B20A, B20B, B20Z1 are quite ordinary DONS units, without any special bells and whistles. They even lack the famous VTEC system. The motors were modified many times, which led to the appearance of several modifications.
* Engine numbers are located to the left of the exhaust manifold.
B20A with a volume of 2.0 liters, with a capacity of up to 160 hp.(at 6300 rpm) and a maximum torque of 186 Nm (at 5000 rpm), installed on the Accord, Prelude and Vigor.
The Honda B20A four-cylinder in-line engine was produced in several versions from 1985 to 1990. Both carburetor and injection power systems were installed on the engine.
The architecture of the B20A unit is significantly different from the rest of Honda's B-engines, and has practically no parts interchangeable with them.
B20B with a volume of 2.0 liters, with a capacity of up to 150 hp. (at 6300 rpm) and a maximum torque of 186 Nm (at 4200 rpm), installed on Orthia, CR-V, S-MX and Stepwgn.
Perhaps the most popular engine from the entire “B” family is considered to be the two-liter twin-shaft unit B20B, which was installed in the model for the middle class - CR-V and Orthia. As a rule, this engine was paired with an automatic transmission, which, of course, significantly reduced its capabilities, which could have been simply perfect at that time.
Many fans of cars from the Honda brand are still tormented by the question: "Why didn't the company decide on its VTEC for the B20B?" This is still one of the mysteries of the Japanese concern. A stock B20B with VTEC would make it one of the most advanced in its class. Unfortunately for many, this never happened.
B20Z1 with a volume of 2.0 liters, with a capacity of up to 147 hp. (at 6300 rpm) and a maximum torque of 182 Nm (at 4500 rpm), it was installed on the Honda CR-V.
The power of the B20Z1 engine was increased to 147 hp. c., and everything else, including the torque, has not changed.
The motors of the B20 series do not have any special nuances and their reliability is clearly traced in the modes in which they operate. With "civilian" engines installed in CR-V or StepWGN, everything is quite simple - problems in them appear after a run of 150 thousand km, and as a rule, they are not serious at all.
VIDEO
Periodic maintenance is reduced to the timely replacement of technical fluids and consumables. If there are more reliable twin-shaft engines than the entire B-family from Honda, they probably haven't been built yet.
Reliability.
The ratio of torque and power.
Maintainability.
Cylinder head gasket.
Camshaft oil seals.
Pump and thermostat.
The only really weak point of the "civil" B20A / B / Z1 engines is the cylinder head gasket, which usually "breaks through" to 200 thousand km, but is this a mileage for such a breakdown ?! After all, sooner or later, even the most reliable motor must have something to wear out.
You can also note problems with the pump and thermostat and the fragility of the camshaft oil seals. Otherwise, the B20A / B / Z1, as already mentioned, are quite reliable engines, and in the case of timely maintenance they work without any complaints.
It is the ability of B-motors for tuning that is highly valued and so loved by Honda drivers all over the world. Even today, these engines are of great interest and a good basis for any modifications to the Honda power plant. Almost everything is possible with the engines of this family, even the deepest forcing of these units can be done indefinitely, so let's take a little look at the most popular "light" tuning in recent years using the B20B as an example.
To assemble a hybrid B20B motor with VTEC, you will need a cylinder head with an intake and a distributor from the B16A or B18C engines, which are most often found, as well as an ECU and, ideally, wiring. The end result after the assembly of such a hybrid is a two-liter power plant with a capacity of 200 hp or more. and with a grassroots torque from 200 Nm. And all this without replacing the engine block and, as a result, preserving the numbered unit. A car with a similar engine will have very few competitors even among modern HONDA models.
VIDEO
Also, on any of the B20A / B / Z1 engines, an adequate installation of a turbo kit is possible. A sufficient power reserve allows you to experiment and increase the technical characteristics many times more.
The creation of the twin-shaft B20 engine series is one of the best Honda has ever done for its mid-range cars. All elements of the motors are made with a huge margin of safety, which is why representatives of this line are rightfully recognized as perhaps the most reliable engines from Honda.
The simplicity with which the B20A / B / Z1 powertrains are made deserve special praise. Minor repairs can be carried out even in "field" conditions, as evidenced by numerous real cases when it was possible to replace a broken valve right on the street and in just a few hours.
Video (click to play).
The uniqueness of the entire B20 range lies in the fact that Honda has managed to combine the performance of its civilian engines with the sporting prowess of the B16 and B18 series. In addition, within their lines, all B-motors (apart from the B20A) have interchangeable units and parts, which gives amazing end results, which many tuners are happy to use, creating hybrids with characteristics that surpass even turbocharged motors. Perhaps nothing more tunable than the B20 has yet to be made by Honda.
