In detail: Do-it-yourself repair of a chainsaw engine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
I bought a chainsaw Ural 2 Electron. The instruction manual for this instrument has been lost. Can anyone describe the procedure for adjusting idle speed, starting throttle position?
In my tool, I adjust the idle speed by changing the length of the damper cable. Those. coarse adjustment I unscrew the screw holding the cable and pull or loosen it with my hands; for fine adjustment there is a stop screw near the throttle grip.
I am repairing the Ural 2T Electron chainsaw (1988 onwards). I bought a magneto, put it on - do not start, sneezes and tugs the hand so well (gives it to the side opposite to the cranking motion by the starter). Well, I think the ignition timing needs to be adjusted. Results - he pulls the hand earlier, then later. I have a question. How does she start? Or am I doing something wrong?
In my practice, there was once a similar case. Only when the engine kicked back - cotton and smoke fell from all sides (both from the carburetor and from under the crankcase too). Although it happened and got started. It turned out that the pin on the piston, which keeps the ring from turning, has weakened, and since it is located opposite the bypass window, it has hollowed out a groove in this window with a length of about 6-8 mm. Yes, plus an underworked piston, as a result, the bypass window opened before the exhaust. Examine the inside of the cylinder, maybe that's the case. Insert a thick sheet of paper there (along the height of the cylinder) and circle all the windows with a piece of pencil - you will get a scan of the cylinder, then compare it with a piston. That's how I defined this problem then. And also look: the piston in the connecting rod does not play much? How do the rings feel there (especially the top one)? And try the compression just in case.
Video (click to play).
It is not necessary to move the magneto further than the grooves, all the more to make a new groove in the flywheel. Most likely, the magneto is buggy: either at the factory there is something with the control coil contrived (the wrong side, not the number of turns, the input-output is confused), or the thyristor burned out and opens ahead of time. In any case, it is advisable to check the magneto on a working chainsaw and decide whether it is magneto or not. You can also try to turn the wires of the control coil or itself, or by placing spacers under the magneto, try to move it along the flywheel axis (maybe the control magnets are overlapped there somehow by the power ones) Although this is just my thoughts. And also as an option: try to restore the old magneto.
Why does the Ural Electron chainsaw engine not provide the required power?
Perhaps the piston rings are burnt in the piston grooves or the ring is broken. There may also be leaks in the joints of the cylinder to the crankcase, the carburetor to the cylinder, wear and loss of elasticity of the rubber crankcase seals. And another reason - the holes of the carburetor nozzles are clogged.
Is the chain sharpened on the machine, or can it be corrected only by hand?
The Oregon chain for Ural-2T ("Druzhba") has the name 0.404 ″ 64 1.6mm 20 ″ / 50 (Ural, Druzhba) longitudinal and model ORG / 27R64E.
I have this tool in operation. There was such a problem: when the fuel tap is open, gasoline flows from the carburetor, I think, because of this, I can not adjust the carburetor. Maybe someone faced such a problem? Gasoline flows into the diffuser between the air valve and the throttle valve. The hose was changed. Started after washing the carburetor.
Disassemble it again, buy a repair kit, replace everything except the valve, it is not in the repair kit. There may be small chips in the orifice where the valve is inserted. Maybe because of it, the gasoline is leaking.
I am adjusting the carburetor on the Ural 2 Electron chainsaw. Unscrew the idle screw by more than 2.5 turns. This is fine? A situation arose: I adjusted it while everything was fine on the ground, as soon as I lift it, it starts to gain momentum, I will lower it to the ground again normally. Then he twisted it again, began to work normally. Most likely, the oil seals will have to be replaced. And how long do they serve on average?
This unpleasant situation arose from the fact that the clamp does not firmly grip the gearbox with the crankcase, and when you lift the saw, the tire and the gearbox move the crankshaft with their weight, resulting in air leakage. Is it necessary either to put rubber at least 5 mm in, or to buy a new clamp, just before these two options, check whether the clamp fastening bolt is fully clamped? If the screw is not tightened to the stop, then first release the clamp of the clamp, tighten the screw, then tighten the lock back. This is the problem.
Why on the Ural 2T chainsaw, the driven sprocket on the tire rotates tightly, with jamming?
Most likely, dirt, sawdust or tar got into the sprocket bearing. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse in gasoline or kerosene, lubricate with oil.
There was such a problem. I put a repair kit for the carburetor b / p Ural, replaced everything. Now, with great difficulty, it starts up and you gasp twice and stalls. What can be done?
Did you adjust the carburetor after installing new parts? - stalls with a ringing sound or deaf? After replacing the repair. kit, be sure to adjust the carburetor, "from scratch", when assembling the carburetor with a new rem. kit, the jet was replaced (if a complete repair kit), if so, then it was necessary to adjust the valve arm that closes and opens the jet (there is a spring under this valve). In theory, if the new jet, it now does not open normally during robots, in addition, check that this new jet is not clogged, or rather, you could get defective rubber in this jet, which softened a little from the fuel and closed the hole.
Saw Ural 2 electronic ignition. I stood for two or three years without work, yesterday I wanted to start it up, but with great difficulty worked for a few seconds, the same story died out when I started it again. Maybe someone will tell you what is wrong?
Maybe before putting it into the cylinder, oil was poured. Try to unscrew the candle, wipe clean it from carbon deposits. With the spark plug removed, the air and throttle valves open, turn the crankshaft with the starter several times. Maybe the carburetor was misaligned in the past, try adjusting it according to the instructions. when did you start smoking heavily or not? Old gasoline can be affected, so it is better to replace it, do not forget with oil.
Because of what the Ural 2T Electron chainsaw can fill in candles? The spark seems to be good.
It can be poured if: the gap in the candle is large (for a contact magneto it should be 0.5, for BSZ - 0.6-0.8); more oils than put in the mixture; cold candle (A17 instead of A11); the spark is weak. About the carburetor - even if it is incorrectly configured, it should start (at least KMP-100). This is if it is serviceable.
On my chainsaw, the saw chain does not stop idling. What could be the reason?
Either the idle speed has not been adjusted, or the clutch has not been adjusted.
I operate the Ural chainsaw. I poured fresh gasoline under the pumping with the air damper closed, turned the crankshaft with the starter, then opened the damper, it started up and while trying to adjust the carburetor it stalled for me four times and for the fifth time it stalled completely. Then I tried to start it and nothing happened with the shutter open and closed. After all this, I purely accidentally tilted the saw towards the muffler and gasoline poured out of there. What could be?
This is really weird. First of all, ventilate the engine, close the fuel valve, open the air and throttle valves, unscrew the spark plug, and turn the crankshaft several times, while it is imperative that a spark plug is installed on the high-voltage cable, which in turn is reliably connected to ground. How much to rotate the crankshaft? it's hard to say, since the overflow is huge, first, after 15-20 jerks, probably “drain” by tilting the saw off the muffler, when the fuel stops flowing out, move away from the place where it was drained, and after the same 15-20 jerks, burn the fuel in the muffler.If after the next portion (15-20 jerks) the fuel does not ignite in the muffler, you can try to start it again. The reason for such an overflow, I can assume, if the saw did not start for a long time, the oil could settle on the valve of the overlapping nozzle or on the nozzle itself, as a result there is no tight closure, in addition, due to a long idle time, the membrane could dry out in places, and after starting the engine it could crack , which could also lead to a leaky closure of the nozzle. I recommend checking the carburetor.
Oil leaks from the oil tank on the Ural 2 chainsaw. How can I fix it?
Put on one normal store gasket (like paronite), you can try a sealant. Regarding the increase-decrease in revs: I also toiled with this. Replaced the front oil seal and became normal. Try to remove the gearbox, you will immediately see if the oil seal passes everything black and wet there. Although if you removed the ignition, then changing both front and rear oil seals will not be superfluous for sure. The gasket between the carburetor and the cylinder may be worn out.
The tool cuts very hard. What could be the reasons and how to fix it?
There may be several reasons: The teeth of the chain are dull - you need to sharpen it. No lubrication to the chain - Check the presence of oil in the oil tank, clean the channels of the lubrication system. The chain is too tight. The chain tension needs to be adjusted. The bar may be bent or the chain is dirty. Wear of the tire blade along the working part. You need to flip the tire.
Why does a chainsaw cut obliquely?
Most likely, the cutting teeth on one side of the chain are higher or lower than the other side. Sharpen the chain correctly or replace it with a new one.
Why doesn't the chain stop idling?
There are several reasons: Idle speed is not adjusted, the clutch is not adjusted.
Chainsaws "Ural" have been known for more than half a century: their production began in 1955 at the Perm plant, which had worked for the country's military-industrial complex for many years. Until now, their popularity has not faded: demand still remains high despite the abundance of new foreign brands. Some do not want to overpay: the purchase of the Ural chainsaw is more budgetary than similar devices from leading European manufacturers. The same applies to their maintenance, repairs, which save the family budget.
But most of the users of these chainsaws appreciate the traditional quality, which has been tested over decades of service by more than one generation of people.
We will get acquainted with the features of the legendary saws of this manufacturer, their structure and functionality, as well as the nuances of maintenance and repair, in this article.
Chainsaws "Ural" - the successors of another famous brand "Druzhba", which are considered its improved counterparts. Compared to Druzhba chainsaws, they have:
high power;
gear equipment;
removable container for chain lubrication - crankcase;
improved cylinder and starter;
easily removable cutting part of the saw;
upper handle composition;
Hydraulic wedge has been added to the construct.
While there are many advantages to this technique, it is not without its drawbacks. The main ones are:
a large amount of toxic exhaust;
frequent clogging of the air filter;
high gas mileage;
from here come frequent problems with the engine and gear part
Consider the range of gasoline saws from this manufacturer.
Gasoline hand tools designed specifically for tough working conditions and tasks of increased complexity.
The device of the Ural 2t Electron chainsaw is quite simple. The main working details are:
engine;
starter;
reducer;
switch;
cutting headset;
gas tank.
There is also a steering wheel and an element on which the structure can be supported.
Technical features of the chainsaw "Ural" 2t Electron
2-stroke engine that consumes 632 ml of fuel per hour;
high power - 3.68 kW;
46 cm tire with detachable chain;
heavy weight - 11.7 kg.
A productive model with improved functionality. The inertial chain brake and chain stroke in auto mode simplify the operator's tool maintenance tasks.
propulsion thrust - 3.9 kW;
capacious gas tank - 0.55 l;
volumetric oil sump - 265 ml;
maximum bus length - 0.45 m.
Sufficiently compact and lightweight chain chainsaw. Decent semi-professional unit, adapted for medium loads.
It differs from other modifications:
thrust of 3.8 kW;
large tanks for fuel and chain oil - 0.62 and 0.25 liters;
standard chain pitch - 3/8;
long bus - 35-45 cm;
light weight - 6.89 kg.
Professional-grade petrol power tool. Features improved grip, chain brake and power button lock function.
Users note that this model of the Ural chainsaw breaks down less often than others and requires repair.
Industrial grade chain saw. Forces of 5.1 hp enough for all woodworking.
Gasoline tank - 0.55 l;
Carter - 0.25 L;
Tire - 45 cm;
Weight - 7.8 kg.
It is advisable to begin acquaintance with such a technique with the instruction manual. Covers such issues:
the internal structure of chainsaws;
the nuances of refueling;
running-in and rules for starting the engine;
preparation of the device for sawing;
care and storage;
safety standards.
Let us dwell on some of them that can be encountered in the process of using Ural chainsaws.
Resourceful people have long figured out how to convert their outdated Ural models to 92 gasoline. To do this, you need to lower the octane number of AI-92 or AI-95 gasoline by adding 70 g of diesel fuel to one tank of the fuel mixture. The engine practically does not feel the difference with such an additive and operates normally.
The proportion for the gas-oil mixture should be as follows: 50 ml of engine oil (preferably not for mopeds) per 1 liter of gasoline.
A serviceable and filled instrument can be started. For this you need:
put the switch in the working position;
pump the fuel mixture into the carburetor;
pull the starter;
warm up the engine and get to work.
If the device is completely new or returned from repair, it must be run in, which we will talk about further.
