Do-it-yourself detroit 14 engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself detroit 14 engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

This article appeared because the order we made is far from standard. Our longtime client contacted us with a request to help him understand the situation with a systematic (every 10-15 thousand km) breakdown of the cylinder head gasket. We tested the head twice. And the plane of the Detroit Diesel cylinder head was machined twice, removing only a small layer of material. When the situation repeated itself for the third time, there was no doubt about the quality of the work we had done earlier. It became clear that the problem lay elsewhere. Despite the fact that there are legends and even sagas about the reliability of Detroit engines, nothing lasts forever under the moon.
After several hours of deliberation, we put forward a version that the culprit of the problem are the sleeves or the block itself. A few days later, the customer completely disassembled the engine, and our assumptions were fully confirmed.

The culprit was the thrust collars in the Detroit Diesel cylinder block. Taking into account that this engine has already traveled more than a million kilometers, such corrosive destruction was not surprising. The question was different - how to fix this defect?

Armed with a Detroit engine repair manual and a variety of measuring tools, we tried to find a solution to the problem proposed by the manufacturer of this engine, but, unfortunately, it turned out that the manufacturer did not offer a ready-made solution. Now fans of contract engines will exclaim: “We must take a boo engine! (contract) or even contract block. "Well, well, - we will answer. - First, look in stock, and then be surprised at the price of this unit for a long time. " And the state of the block being sold will be impossible to predict - it may well turn out to be much worse than that of the existing one.

Video (click to play).

After some deliberation, we came up with an idea that the wonderful Caterpillar company uses in its repair technologies. It was this "caterpillar" that prompted us the direction of solving the problem.

First, we removed the corrosion damage to a "clean" material.

Then they made special inserts from a material similar to the original one to compensate for the removed one.

Then these inserts were installed in the block.

Re-machined in height and bore according to the manufacturer's requirements.

Here's what happened as a result!

The total time spent on the repair of this unit was no more than one working day. Problem solved! The cost of work - no more than 20% of the cost of the used block.

Torque the head bolts to 250-285 N m

read there. is the engine

I don’t know how here, but on the 60th series until 2001 the plant installed two-stroke connecting rods (the piston pin was fastened with bolts and the upper head was, as it were, half cut off (open), it so happened that these bolts broke off and then a hole in the block. We changed them on newer (traditional). Everything went happily ever after, unfortunately the weight of the rods did not bother. But this is about the 60 series. I think it's okay.

Such a question, I’m looking at the second motor capital, what is it, collective farmers pour m-10 oil into the HEUI system, or for another reason they don’t run?

takes place.
as well as hanging completely overweight units.
incorrect operating mode, which accordingly leads to overheating.
cold start with gasoline ethers.
and so on.

Guys, first I'll tell you what's what:
mileage 1,050,000, 2 months ago went antifreeze to oil, poured HI-Gear sealant into antifreeze, changed the oil, one nozzle everything became ok, drove for 2 months

Yesterday 25.07.12
mileage 1,070,000, antifreeze did not just go, it ran. For 120 km it took 10 liters of antifreeze, and it all ended up in oil

The chief phoned all the workshops and said that there was simply no money for repairs.

we will find for spare parts

... And we will do it ourselves.

In short, the engine breathes, for 1000 km 1 liter of oil, fuel consumption seems to be normal 30-32 empty 37-39 with 20k. A major overhaul is required, with your own hands, where to start, maybe just weld a hole somewhere or some gaskets to change, or something is rotten and just replace and get by at a minimum. If the motor needs to be disassembled what tools and wrenches are needed, tightening torques, manuals. Help pliz, mood 0 and this smoke from the burning taiga in the Tomsk region, there is nothing to breathe. The car is parked in the Novosibirsk region.

There is no oil in antifreeze, the opposite is true. In the morning, they unscrewed the plug from the pallet, first pure red antifreeze escaped, then the oil was reddish. The oil was changed 3000 back, Mobile 15W-40 is a mini-rake, the oil is excellent, the pressure at idle to hot 20, on the move 30-40 (10 and 9 gears and 90 km / h). On a cold 50 and above (we now have +27 + 30C, I think in winter and it would have been more).
Consider first checking the heat exchanger and the pump, or disassembling everything at once, I have such a premonition that the liners. Because where they bought this car, (they had 3 of them on sale), the liners were rotted on one of them, and they (the sellers) just capitalized the internal combustion engine on that other car. Maybe this is the same with this internal combustion engine?

Rashid, thanks! I will do so tomorrow

Hello guys everyone! Need new advice.

Last year I created this topic, the problem turned out to be in the pump, changed to a new one and traveled for another year. As I ate oil with solarium, they left for another year, and went north to Nakyn, and there were no problems to the east and west, the car did not fail.

The other day we decided to shake up the SAMI motor. The oil ran from the camshaft oil seal, the radiator ran, and a bunch of other problems. We decided until summer, and while there is money to change the piston, to repair the head, to change all the payers. In short, prepare the Boeing for the winter, so that there is less hemorrhoids in the cold.

1. First question. How to pull out the sleeve (I already understood that it is being removed with a piston and connecting rod

) What is she sitting on there? Rubber ring or copper? They pressed on with a jack, the car rises together with the motor and the sleeve does not go in any way, maybe there is some kind of puller? Or maybe someone was shooting with a sledgehammer? Or somewhere to spray WD? A hundred way closed, the car is already headless.
2. Second question. He took off the cover from the connecting rod and was horrified, it was written “MADE IN UK” (the first consideration ran through that Ukraine, but later it came down that England, the United Kingdom) And the inserts are generally the inscription GERMANY and the plant's chikuha two arrows in a circle, this is from which German the inserts fit on the American ? Or was it machined under some kind of MAN size? And how is it with cranks from England? Is there a Detroit Diesel plant in England too? The indigenous have not yet unscrewed it, it is not yet known what?

For today, thanks to everyone who read and will answer or offer something, I will add questions until we let the smoke go.

Dude "Yandex" to help, why is there a problem for the topic's clogging, on the 14th there are a little more pistons and a little more piston stroke. Theoretically, they are the same (heads), the only difference is in the nozzles, as I heard, And it seems there are differences in DDEC-4 and DDEC-5 computers, too, in nozzles. 2l beer + internet + night = solution of the issue.

Moderators. Clean the topic to my previous post please.

Imported diesel engines such as Cummins, Caterpillar, Komatsu, Detroit Diesel, Perkins, Deutz etc., possess a great resource.Russian realities associated with harsh operating conditions, poor climatic conditions, poor fuel quality, untimely replacement of oil and filter elements, significantly accelerate the process of engine wear. There are times when a completely new engine requires repair after several weeks of operation. With proper operation, the engines work without repair for up to 20,000 operating hours. With an operating time of 20,000 hours, most manufacturers recommend a scheduled overhaul.

Ltd Detroit-ST Company carries out overhaul of engines Cummins, Caterpillar, Komatsu, Detroit Diesel, Perkins, Deutz using factory documentation, special tools and quality spare parts. We have at our disposal own large warehouse of parts for diesel engines of foreign production, therefore our engine repair time is minimal... In addition, we are ready to assemble any engine for you from our own repair fund in accordance with your specification.

Overhaul of Cummins and other brands of engines includes the following activities:

external engine wash;
disassembly of the engine;
troubleshooting;
cleaning parts;
grinding or polishing the crankshaft;
repair of the cylinder head;
checking or repairing the cylinder block;
check of fuel equipment;
engine assembly;
adjustment of valves and nozzles;
engine running-in;
engine painting.

External washing of a diesel engine before overhaul allows you to clean the engine from dirt and oil deposits. Allows to simplify the process of its disassembly, since access to bolted connections is simplified, and the cleanliness of the repair area is increased.

Disassembly is a responsible event. During the disassembly process, it is important to preserve all threaded connections, arrange the motor elements according to their accessories to the disassembled engine parts, mark the connecting rods, etc.

In the process of troubleshooting the engine, Detroit-ST Company specialists thoroughly inspect all engine elements, perform visual and instrumental checks of parts for reuse, determine the list of spare parts required for repair and a list of necessary repair operations. All detected defects are recorded and photographed. When carrying out troubleshooting, the presence of the customer's representatives is welcomed, who will be able to agree on the necessary work during the repair of Cummins, Komatsu, Perkins, Cat, etc.

Before assembly, all re-used motor parts are thoroughly cleaned, at this stage all contamination is removed. Parts are cleaned using modernized equipment, mechanically and chemically, which allows you to completely get rid of existing deposits.

In the course of constant engine operation, under the influence of a number of factors, the oil layer between the liners and the journals of the crankshaft is disrupted, which leads to wear of the journal surface. The crankshaft is a high-strength and expensive part, therefore, the engine designers provide for the availability of repair dimensions, due to which, after removing the damaged layer from the surface of the journals (shaft grinding) and subsequent polishing, the crankshaft can be reused.

During overhaul of engines Cummins, Deutz, Detroit Diesel, etc., a complete check of the cylinder head (cylinder head) is carried out: a check is carried out for the integrity and presence of cracks, the flatness of the surface adjacent to the block, the wear of valves, valve seats and guides, the subsidence of springs, etc. .d. All worn out elements are changed.

During a major overhaul, much attention is paid to the condition of the cylinder block. The condition of the main bearings, threaded holes, liner seats is checked, and repairs are carried out if necessary.

Proper operation of the fuel equipment is very important for the engine to work. The most accurate check of the operation of the injectors and the fuel pump is carried out at specialized stands.

Assembling the engine is carried out in strict accordance with the technical documentation of the engine manufacturer. The assembly area is clean and tidy. With a mechanic-mechanic, a process engineer is present during the assembly process, who checks the order of work, tightening torques, the use of special tools, etc. during the repair of Cummins, Komatsu, Perkins engines.

Adjustment of valves and nozzles... After assembling the motor, the valve clearance is adjusted and the unit injectors are adjusted.

Engine break-in. The assembled engine is connected to a radiator and filled with coolant and engine oil. The engine oil is pumped by a mechanical pump through the oil lines for their forced filling, after which a cold engine run-in is carried out using break-in starters. The oil pressure is checked. If everything is in order, then the engine is started. During the running-in process, the engine temperature, oil pressure, exhaust smoke, checking the operation of thermostats, checking the operation of engine sensors and the health of the electrical wiring are monitored. After the run-in is completed, the valve and unit injector adjustments are checked again.

Engine painting. After repair, the engine of Cummins, CAT, Komatsu and other brands is painted.

Motors that have undergone major overhaul at our enterprise are provided warranty for up to 1 year or 2000 hours.

More detailed information on the repair of Cummins, Detroit Diesel, CAT, Komatsu and other engine brands can be obtained from our specialists by multi-line telephone: 8-800-500-94-24

What spare parts do you use?

What engine is on your truck?

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Popular isn't always the best. But that's not the case when it comes to Detroit diesel engines. In this case, we are dealing with a quality American product that has made a name for itself among consumers around the world.

As a rule, this unit is used on tractors and buses. Detroit diesels are considered one of the best due to their sophisticated design. Specialists include the following strengths: reliability of engines, their durability, economical level of fuel consumption. At first glance, these are rather general advantages, which, nevertheless, the Detroit engine fully possesses. All these positive aspects are achieved due to a special, complex design, which in turn complicates the process of repairing this mechanism.

Only professional, experienced craftsmen can repair the Detroit engine. The peculiarities of the American assembly are that when working you need to strictly follow the instructions, since all the details of the mechanism are thought out to the millimeter. Truck Prime is ready to provide the services of such specialists. The algorithm of our work assumes:

Diagnostics and redecoration
Maintenance
Overhaul
Fuel system repair and maintenance

The first stage involves general diagnostics and replacement of worn parts. As a rule, this is an oil change, clogged filters, thermostats, as well as general issues such as replacing worn gaskets and some others. If necessary, our specialists check the adjustment of the valves, and if necessary, adjust them to the required parameters, and provide other services.

A more detailed analysis of the problems involves diagnosing the tightness of the engine block, thermal clearances, monitoring and adjusting the geometry of the engine and bolted connections. Also, the range of services of our company includes the replacement of pump-injectors, replacement of the positioner, restoration of the sprayer, repair of the detroit diesel series 60 engine, as well as a number of other services.

In addition to the aforementioned engines, Truck Prime works with popular models that are used in oversized equipment designed to work in non-standard conditions. This is another product of American mechanical engineering. In our case, these are cummins engines. They are used in mining equipment, all-terrain vehicles, excavators, snow groomers and much more. The cummins engine is most effective in extreme conditions - in arctic ice, impassable jungle, swamps... The downside to endurance is fatigue. No matter how reliable the engine is, sooner or later it will also have to be repaired. What do we mean by the words repair of Cummins engines:

Engine diagnostics;
Subsequent disassembly / assembly for troubleshooting;
Identification and replacement of worn-out parts;
Flushing, cleaning of worn out parts;
Cylinder bore;

For more detailed information on the work performed with American engines, please contact our specialists. Contacts are indicated in the corresponding section of the Truck Prime website. Our branches are located in St. Petersburg and Veliky Novgorod. The main areas of work of the company:

Maintenance of tractors;
Diagnostics and repair of American engines;
Culling, defect detection, replacement of parts;
Evacuation of cargo vehicles;

If a failure is found on the way, and you cannot solve the problem on the spot, call us, and our specialists will go to the scene of the accident as soon as possible and deliver your tractor to the workshop. The basic principles of Truck Prime are based on the use of modern diagnostic equipment. Highly qualified craftsmen, trained abroad, will give a detailed analysis of the problems of your unit in the shortest possible time. Truck Prime specialists are always ready to help you. We offer only mutually beneficial cooperation, real prices for services and highly qualified assistance.

codes Diagnostic errors DETROIT DIESEL

11.12 ——— —— malfunction of the gas pedal wires or connectors

13 ——————- malfunction of the coolant level sensor wires or connectors

14.15 ————— malfunction of the oil temperature sensor / coolant wires or connectors

16 ———- ——— malfunction of the coolant level sensor wires or connectors

21, 22—- ——— malfunction of the gas pedal wires or connectors

23, 24—- ——— malfunction of the fuel temperature sensor wires or connectors

26 ——————- active input signal of auxiliary engine cutoff # 1 or # 2 27,

31 ——————- open or short to ground in the engine brake input circuit

32 ——————- the pilot lamp circuit is faulty

33, 34 ————- malfunction of the turbocharger pressure sensor wires or connectors

35, 36 ————- malfunction of the oil pressure sensor wires or connectors

37, 38 ———- - malfunction of the fuel pressure sensor wires or connectors

39 ——————- egr system malfunction

41 ——————- exceeding the pulses on the synchronization sensor

42 ——————- skipping pulses on the synchronization sensor

44 ——————- high coolant temperature

46 ——————- low voltage in the on-board network

47 ——————- high fuel or intake air pressure

48 ———— ——- low fuel or intake air pressure

54 ——————- malfunction of the vehicle speed sensor wires or connectors

Read also: Candy aqua 1000t DIY repair

3. Computer diagnostics of the engine Detroit Diesel S40E dealer equipment. During diagnostics, our specialists will test all engine systems, establish the causes, malfunctions and eliminate them.

4. Repair of electronic control units Detroit Diesel S40E engine.

Electronic control unit 1833341С5

5. Replacing the gasket or cylinder head... The term for the completion of the work is 1-2 days.

Warranty for work performed 1 YEAR

Engine family production Detroit Diesel S40E started in 1991. There are currently over two million engines in the family. More than a million electronic fuel injection engines have been produced. Engine families Detroit Diesel S40E certified: Federal On-Highway, Euro II, MSHA, CANMET, Federal Non-Road & Euro II Non-Road.

Engine specifications International Detroit Diesel DTA 530E (I-308) / DDC S 40E

Theodolite specialists carry out a full cycle of maintenance and overhaul of engines Detroit Diesel 40E (Detroit Diesel 7.6 LTA, Detroit Diesel 8.7 LTA). For instance:

- Regular Maintenance of Detroit Diesel 40E engines (Detroit Diesel 7.6 LTA, Detroit Diesel 8.7 LTA)

- Dismantling / installation of Detroit Diesel engines on equipment

- Disassembly and defects in Detroit Diesel 40E engines (Detroit Diesel 7.6 LTA, Detroit Diesel 8.7 LTA)

- Assembly with replacement of defective parts (current repair of Detroit Diesel 40E (Detroit Diesel 7.6 LTA, Detroit Diesel 8.7 LTA))

- Complete overhaul of Detroit Diesel 40E engines (Detroit Diesel 7.6 LTA, Detroit Diesel 8.7 LTA)

- Repair of the block of cylinders Detroit Diesel 40E (Detroit Diesel 7,6 LTA, Detroit Diesel 8,7 LTA)

with replacement of repair inserts

- Repair of cylinder heads for Detroit Diesel 40E (Detroit Diesel 7.6 LTA, Detroit Diesel 8.7 LTA)

- Repair and tuning of the fuel equipment of engines Detroit Diesel 40E (Detroit Diesel 7.6 LTA, Detroit Diesel 8.7 LTA) (fuel pumps and injectors)

- Repair of starters, alternators and other attachments Detroit Diesel 40E (Detroit Diesel 7.6 LTA, Detroit Diesel 8.7 LTA)

For all questions of repair and maintenance of Detroit Diesel 40E engines (Detroit Diesel 7.6 LTA, Detroit Diesel 8.7 LTA), as well as purchasing spare parts for these engines, you can contact our specialists:

Address: RF, Yekaterinburg, st. Blucher 28, of. 304

Phones: 8 (800) 555-24-19 (call within Russia is free);

Perhaps you will also be interested in other sections of our site:

about cars, auto repair, auto maintenance, driving, automatic transmission, engine, brakes, charging

The devil is not so terrible as he is painted. This proverb also applies to engine repair, moreover, repairs can be done by hand, without any special knowledge and experience, but in order for you to understand what you are doing, you will better get acquainted with the operation of the engine. In this article we will figure out how to repair an engine with your own hands... Also at the end of the article you will find a video on how not to run in the engine.

I immediately want to make a reservation, it is assumed that the engine has been removed from the machine, oil and antifreeze have been drained from there and it is disassembled. When disassembling the motor, no special skills are required, just unscrew the cylinder head, remove all attachments (starter, generator, etc.). We unscrew the connecting rods with pistons, the crankshaft, the oil pump. In general, we leave the completely disassembled cylinder block and the crankshaft separately.

I think that not everyone has a grinder at home, so the next step should be entrusted to a grinder.

Finding a grinder in your city will not be difficult. They need to go to him with their disassembled block of cylinders and crankshaft.

The master will make all the necessary measurements for which he will bore the block and the crankshaft, and will tell you these dimensions.

Now you need to go shopping. But you still have to go back to the piston master, because it will be better if the grinder grinds the cylinder block along the pistons and at the same time marks the pistons along the cylinders 1 2 3 4.

Necessary spare parts for engine repair.

So we already know the sizes of pistons, rings and crankshaft liners. Now we buy it all. It is also necessary to buy all the gaskets and oil seals for the engine. Do not reuse gaskets and seals, problems may arise due to oil and antifreeze leaks. For belt driven motors, idler and idler rollers and the belt itself. With the chain, you need to check the condition of the chain and sprockets. It is also recommended to change the temperature sensor and oil pressure sensor, regardless of whether they worked for you or not. It remains only to take filters, oil and antifreeze. Take the same sealant (always useful). Well, here's the whole list, I don't seem to have forgotten anything.

Cylinder head.

The cylinder head also needs to be viewed and prepared a little. It is necessary to re-grind the valve and change the valve seals. You can read about it here.

At the same time, look at the valve guides to see if the valve is dangling in them. Change them if necessary. Check the cams for wear, although hydraulic lifters are already installed on most cars.

Assembling the engine.

By far the most crucial stage. Be especially careful at this stage.... I often come across the fact that people re-repair the engine because of the stupidest mistakes, somewhere they fell short, forgot to lubricate, etc. There is no need to repeat their mistakes, it is easy to avoid if you constantly double-check everything. It will be slower but effective.

Before assembling the engine be sure to clean all channels in the cylinder block... All channels within the block must be perfect. Blockage of one of them will lead to oil starvation of the engine, and this is a repeated repair.

If a blockage occurs in the cooling jacket, the result is engine overheating and again, re-repair.

These checks are required, I emphasize, do not ignore them.

We start assembling the motor by installing the crankshaft.

To begin with, we will install the root liners in place. The locks on the liners must match perfectly. Everything is in place?

Lubricate and put the crankshaft in place (do not forget the axial displacement half rings). The axial displacement has a very small thermal clearance (backlash). It is barely felt by the hands.

Now that the crankshaft is laid down and lubricated, and the axial displacement is normal, we can tighten the yoke. After each twisted yoke, turn the crankshaft by hand, it should turn freely, otherwise something goes wrong, check what exactly (there is no lubrication, the liners are not the same size or the wrong size, there is no axial displacement play). If everything is in order, then the crankshaft rotates by hand with all the ties tightened.

Now it is the turn to install the pistons complete with rings and connecting rods.

We have already learned how to install the inserts, so we will not dwell on this, just put and lubricate.

In order for the piston assembly with rings to enter the cylinder, a mandrel is needed to compress the rings. It is not necessary to buy it, you can cut a strip from a tin can and squeeze it around the piston so that it grabs the edges with pliers. The mandrel is ready, we unfold the rings so that the gaps are at different angles and slowly push the porsches into their places (remember that the grinder marked them for us on the cylinders?). Next, we combine the connecting rod with the neck on the crankshaft and fasten the yoke.

We check and turn the crankshaft, now it will turn more difficult with each screwed piston, but you can no longer turn it with your hands. Our main task is not to squeeze and everything worked as it should. All pistons are installed.

Now we install the oil receiver, oil pump, rear cover with oil seal. The oil seals also need to be lubricated.

You do not need to immediately tighten the front and rear engine covers (on some engines, the oil pump plays the role of the front cover), just make money. After that, turn the crankshaft a few turns so that the oil seals are in the correct position, and you can already tighten to the end.

We close the engine from below (we fasten the pallet). Here, no special skills are required, just tighten the nuts in a circle with a moderate stretch.

Next, install the pulley. You can even screw on the flywheel.

It was the turn of the top of the engine. Let's start installing the cylinder head. There is nothing supernatural here either. Install the head on the block and start tightening the bolts. Here you need to remember the order of tightening the bolts. On absolutely any engine, we begin to tighten the bolts from the center of the head and gradually move away from the center to the edges of the head. It will be better if you tighten the bolts in several steps, at first with a slight tightening, and then increase the tightening. Three doses are enough, with a final result of about 10 kg.

Gas distribution mechanism (GRM).

This mechanism is quite accurate and you will have to work hard to assemble it. But mostly, to accurately set all the marks.

So let's not get scared, you just need to be careful.

First, turn the crankshaft to top dead center, for this there is a mark on the crankshaft pulley and on the flywheel. Next, let's figure out in what position the camshaft should stand (for this we put on the camshaft pulley and see the marks, they should also coincide with the mark on the engine). It is in this position that we begin to fasten the camshaft. Do not rush to immediately tighten the nuts (bolts) to the end. Do this procedure in several passes. On some cars, the camshaft is very fragile and if it goes crooked, there is a danger of breakage.

The whole camshaft is twisted, now we put the oil seal and fasten the pulley. We put on the belt, put the rollers, combine the marks and tighten the belt. When the belt is tensioned, the marks may "go away". There is nothing wrong with that, just repeat the procedure until the labels match. Then we will once again make sure that the marks are correct by turning the crankshaft a few turns. Did it match? Then it's all right. You can proceed with the final assembly of the engine (screw on the valve cover, hinged, timing cover, etc.). Hooray. The motor is assembled. It remains to pour oil into it, install it on the car, connect the wires, pour in antifreeze and get ready for the first start.

First start.

I would personally, before the first launch, drag the car in tow, with the gear engaged, but this will not work with the automatic transmission. So start the engine and listen for any noises. After repair, the engine will run hard and noisy. Do not panic. Then over time it will start to work softer.

It's time to take stock. We can make repairs with our own hands, and there is nothing complicated in this, and at the same time save a lot (after all, such work from a master is not cheap).

In this article I have tried to be brief and you may have additional questions. You can write about it in the comments, and I will supplement the article.

Well, if you liked the article and it was useful to you, share it on twitter, facebook or contact.

Video (click to play).