DIY f14d4 engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself f14d4 engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Production - GM DAT
Engine brand F14D4
Years of release - (2008 - present)
Cylinder block material - cast iron
Power system - injector
Type - in-line
Number of cylinders - 4
Valves per cylinder - 4
Piston stroke - 73.4 mm
Cylinder diameter - 77.9 mm
Compression ratio - 10.5
Engine displacement - 1399 cc.
Engine power - 101 HP / 6400 rpm
Torque - 131 Nm / 4200 rpm
Fuel - 92 (better than 95)
Environmental standards - Euro 4
Engine weight -
Fuel consumption - city 7.9 liters. | track 4.7 liters. | mixed 5.9 l / 100 km
Oil consumption - up to 0.6 l / 1000 km
What kind of oil to pour into F14D4:
10W-30
5W-30 (Low temperature areas)
How much oil is in the Aveo 1.4 engine: 4.5 liters.
When replacing, pour about 4-4.5 liters.
Oil change is carried out every 15,000 km
Resource Chevrolet Aveo 1.4:
1. According to the data of the plant - n.d.
2. In practice - 200-250 thousand km

TUNING
Potential - unknown
Without loss of resource

The engine was installed on:
Chevrolet aveo
ZAZ Chance

This motor, due to its small volume, is very poorly adapted for revision. If a conventional chip will increase the power, it will be no more than 110 hp. Sports shafts are not put on the engine and have not been seen on sale. You can change the exhaust to a 51mm pipe with a 4-2-1 spider, give the cylinder head for porting, put in large valves, adjust, the engine will show about 115-120 hp.

The compression ratio on the F14D4 has increased, in comparison with the old version of the engine and for pressurization it needs to be reduced, we will act according to the collective farm method - we will shove 2 cylinder head gaskets)). We put a compressor with a pressure of 0.5 bar, Bosch 107 injectors, exhaust spider 4-2-1, online tuning. Your 1.4 will give you about 140 hp. and good traction from idle, and this is the level of a modern Opel turbo engine 1.4.
Do not build illusions about the resource, it will decrease, so that the engine lives happily ever after, you need to reduce the compression ratio by installing a forged piston with grooves, this method entails unnecessary expenses and is applicable to building a turbo Aveo.

Video (click to play).

As it was written above, we need a forged piston with holes for lowering the coolant fluid, cook a manifold for a turbine, the turbine itself will be TD04L, oil supply to it, an intercooler, piping, custom-made camshafts with a phase of 260-270, you need to set up online. In the end, with the right approach, your engine will give out more than 180-200 hp, at the same time, financial investments will be almost equal to another Aveo or Lanos, the resource is near zero, and the stability of Valil is a big question. If you want to drive and have 3/4 of the car, consider buying a hot hatchback.

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I am the proud owner of a ZAZ Chance car with automatic transmission. The car has already covered 53,000 km. And for the last year she throws some problems at me. Since there is no experience of operating such a machine on our forum, I have problems with this. Which I have successfully solved.
I propose in this thread to share the experience of operating and repairing the engine of our beloved car.

So, we have ZAZ Chance 2-12 years. The first car in the former USSR with automatic transmission. It became possible thanks to the donor - Chevrolet Aveo.

We have - the model F14D4 is the South Korean interpretation of the Opelev Ecotechs.
- automatic transmission of the Zhdapan company Aisin Warner (AW), model 81-40LE, for Toyota it was called Toyota U441E
- brains for a Delphi engine, model MT80

The methodology for studying this entire economy is simple. There are forums of Aveovodov and Opelevodov, as well as Toyotovodov, because the automatic transmission was installed on Wits and Plats. There are nuances of clumsy Ukrainian engineering, but we are harsh Lanos breeders, we will not be intimidated by this.

The F14D4 engine has been installed on the Aveo since 2008, the ChevroletDeu counterparts are the F16D4 and F18D4, with the corresponding volume of 1.6 and 1.8 liters. On Opel, such motors have been installed since 20034 and they are called Z16XER and Z18XER.

I like the engine, it is modern, it runs. But GM, as always, messed up, and this whole company of car owners Opel, Chevrolet, Daewoo dance with a tambourine around these engines as often as anyone is lucky. We are also no exception.
Well, the caring hands of the Ukrainians have stuffed many more Chinese spare parts there, and we will not be bored at all.

I give links on the engine: https: //my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/175/forum/index.php ”showforum = 132
For automatic transmission: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/175/forum/index.php?showtopic=29081

It must be understood that the correct and successful operation of an automatic transmission without an engine is not possible, it has been verified personally, and therefore I am writing about it in this thread.

Regulations
oil change - 15 t. km - recommend 10 t. km
replacing the timing belt - 160 t. km. - there were no bad precedents

My experience of the first kilometers is this - a persistent smell of fried pies.
The theory of oil leakage was confirmed by practice - it flowed from under the oil filter cover and from the automatic transmission pipes to the radiator.
With the pipes, I quickly figured out, it was only two hours. It is very inconvenient, but of course the most inconvenient clamp turned out to be defective.
But I took a long time to solve the rebus with the oil filter. And this and that - it flows, I tighten, the super duper sealant - does not help. The casket just opened. The filter itself is a liner. Its cover (plastic) - it contains a replaceable O-ring, it is changed with a filter. That's how old he was. ”It was flat and“ plastic ”. Identification of the new rubber ring in cross section took some time, well, where to put it.

Further, a surprise was thrown by the battery, no, not Chinese, Ridny Ukrainian, Oberon. It died instantly and unexpectedly.
Symptoms - well, it won't start. We lit a cigarette. Started up. Do not accelerate - you will get a banana, electronic pedal. Singles only.
Replacing the battery helped.

Read also: DIY tonometer cuff repair

If your battery is discharged, but you need to go, then we start the car from another car. Tarakhtim at idle for half an hour. We disconnect the battery - we throw off the terminal. We put it back on. Oops - everything works.

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I continue the story.
Automatic transmission. This was the next ambush. But it wasn't about her. As I wrote above, they are connected with the engine forever.
In order, thousands of that way to 25-30 thousand. run, a very unpleasant glitch appeared. On the rise, when accelerating in the region of 100-115 km / h, the box switches from 3rd to 4th gear. At this moment, it happens, I don't even know how to write, you can't swear. The motor does not pull, the gearbox freezes, the car rapidly loses speed, the steering wheel is heavy. Very dangerous. The first times I was just scared, once it almost came to an accident. At first, it was rare, then more often. If you smoothly accelerate or go up to 4, then this does not happen. Well, okay, the check is flashing, HOLD is flashing, everything is working in emergency mode, the automatic transmission freezes in 3rd gear. Kapets. Feelings are unbearable, you stand along the middle of the track and tell your wife and children that everything is nothing and now we will fix it.
Don't ask me how I got to the point of dropping this error - I'm a certified motorist with honors. It is easy to treat - you need to pull out the dipstick from the automatic transmission. Well, insert it back. ALL. Start and drive on.

I sinned that the box overheats and the overheating protection turns on. I even wanted to put an additional radiator. But it wasn’t about the “reel”. The engine was buggy, more on that later, but it washed out like that - the engine does not correctly transmit torque, the brains of the box precipitate. When I figured out the engine problem, the automatic transmission magically cured. Oy this later.

Further down the list of symptoms.
The automatic transmission began to fail at 25 t km. At 35 t. Km there was a sound at idle - spirit spirit spirit. Diesel - podmyaya me, the sound is like a diesel engine at idle. Since I was no longer surprised at anything, I climbed to the Aveovods.
And there - yes, this is garbage, some 20-30 thousand rubles and the problem is solved, they say the jamb is not yours but the manufacturer, and he even knows about it.

I read this, and I realized, a fluffy animal, he came. But there was no money and I raised my hand, waved it at her and said in my hearts - “And. with him!" And traveled up to 51 tons. Km.

That is, the mileage is 51 tons. Km, the car can be thrown into a landfill. The engine rumbles. It barely starts, stalls in the most interesting places, and then it barely starts again, the automatic transmission falls into a stupor all the time.
Nowhere to go. Let me study this topic very carefully. I ordered the iron and went to the craftsmen, of course everything is bad here. Let's explore self-replacement. Thanks to the kamarads from the Astra forum for the “bible”. And a clear description of the ambushes that await.

I mastered this business of kamarada, now I can do it and even sometimes make money on it. I spent on adaptations, tools, torque wrenches, but now I can do it. I change the timing, camshaft drive gears, oil seals.

My gears read -INA CHINA

The engine came to life. Began to blame, and not rattle.
I didn't stop there, I cut out the catalyst. I flashed the controller.
Eh. eh. knocks down, she knocks down.
The automatic transmission came to life.

Dear Kamarads. Since I have already seen a lot of Opel and Chevrolet owners with such a problem, I am writing - do not go there without adapting - you need to fix the gears and camshafts. Every second was screwed up in full.

Another nuance also came out. There are no hydraulic lifters on this engine. Valve adjustment every 100 tons km, with special glasses. Price from 10 t. Rub.

And what does this threaten us? Yes, HBO is a luxury, because the valves will burn out at times. In my opinion, this is the largest joint of these engines. I'll have to shoot my own.

In short, that's all for now, there will be questions, I will answer. I'll clean up the spelling, the slides will come later, thanks if you read to the end.
Yura

Post has been edited Yuri76 – 7.7.2014, 13:19

The F14D4 engine has been produced by GM DAT since 2008. It is an in-line 4-cylinder power unit with a cast iron cylinder block. The 1.4-liter engine develops 101 hp. With. at 6400 rpm. It is called the native engine of the Chevrolet Aveo.

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This is a modernized F14D3, but a system for changing the phases of the gas distribution station on both shafts is added here, individual ignition coils are installed, and an electronic choke is used. The resource of the timing belt has noticeably increased, which very soon broke off on its predecessor, which led to a major overhaul. If earlier it was necessary to monitor the belt and rollers every 50 thousand kilometers, then on the new F14D4 this can be done every 100 or even 150 thousand kilometers.

The designers removed the EGR system. There really was a lot of trouble from her, not benefit. Thanks to the elimination of this valve, it was possible to increase the engine power to 101 horses. For a subcompact engine, this figure is a record!

As for the disadvantages, there are still a lot of them from the predecessor. Certain problems are associated with the system for changing the regimes of the GDS, although it is seen as an innovation and an advantage. The fact is that the solenoid valves of the phase regulator quickly deteriorate. The car starts to run noisily like a diesel. Repair in this case means cleaning the valves or replacing them.

There are no hydraulic lifters on the F14D4, and it became possible to adjust the clearances by selecting calibrated glasses. On the one hand, no one canceled the advantages of the automated process, but in reality, the predecessor F14D3 (with hydraulic lifters) had much more problems. As a rule, the need to adjust the valves arises after a 100-thousandth run.

Another weak point of the new engine is the thermostat. Concern GM in this matter is in the first place among other manufacturers. He does not succeed in making thermostats normally, they do not withstand, and that's it! Already after 60-70 thousand km of run, it is necessary to check the part and change it if necessary.

This engine does not have the same tuning potential as the F14D3 due to its small displacement and other reasons.Increase the performance by more than 10-20 HP in the usual ways. with., is unlikely to work. The fact is that there is no way to install sports camshafts here, they are not even on sale.

As for the possible ways of alteration, there are three of them.

Any of the described methods of improving the engine's resource will not extend. On the contrary, installing a compressor will significantly shorten its life. True, there is a way to somewhat improve the situation by installing forged pistons with grooves. But it is expensive, and is only used to build a turbo version.

The F14D4 engine has many advantages. This is an improved timing belt, which runs for a long time, and a high-quality pump, and the absence of an EGR valve. The crankcase ventilation is well thought out, allowing gases to escape from the throttle zone. Therefore, the damper is rarely dirty, which is a great advantage for an electronic actuator. It is also easy to replace the oil filter on this motor - this is done from above, without a pit.

This is where the merits end. A fragile intake manifold that can break easily. Poor low traction. The performance of the oil heat exchanger under the exhaust manifold is not impressive. On it, the seal often breaks through, and antifreeze gets into the oil. Low-grade fuel easily breaks down the catalyst - it is made in one piece with the exhaust manifold.

Definitely, the manufacturer has eliminated some of the previous errors of the F-series engine, but new ones have been added.

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I immediately ask you to excuse for the possible offtopic, but I want to clarify.

Mileage 62,000.
Engine F14D4 , 101 l,

I was going to change the timing belt on my own and everything connected with it. According to TO4.
I climbed many branches of the forum, and just found it for the F14D4 engine

Belt - 24422964
Tension roller - 55570289 or 55562217
Roller bypass - 24436052

1. Are these codes correct?
2. Do I need to change the pump. If yes, I will be glad to the code too.
3. What consumables are required during the repair process?

Thanks in advance for your answers.

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Car: Aveo 1.4 V16 F14D4 101hp sedan manual transmission ABS condo
Location: Bryansk
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Car: Aveo 1.4 V16 F14D4 101hp sedan manual transmission ABS condo
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Car: Aveo 1.4 V16 F14D4 101hp sedan manual transmission ABS condo
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Here is an extract from the Opel forum to help you. Our F14D4 engine is the same Z18XER or Z16XER, one to one. There my comments are in blue.

“If the engine is Z18XER, then according to the regulations, the timing belt is replaced by 150,000 km. I replaced it yesterday with 104,000. I can sell the old belt as new. There are no cracks or scuffs. I didn't change the videos at all. Whistle-replace. There is nothing difficult in replacing it. In order:
1. Remove the right front wheel, right front protection and boot.
2. Remove the alternator belt
3. Remove the generator roller and crankshaft pulley. (It is necessary to stop the engine. If it is an automatic machine, then you can stop it through a plug in the box).
4. Remove the right engine mount
5. remove the anthers (this is what he calls the plastic belt covers) of the lower and upper timing belt. The middle one just snaps off.
6. take out the candles (to make the engine spin easier). I was lazy, I didn't take out
7.we expose everything by marks (on the camshaft gears and on the crankshaft gear)
8. We stop the gears with something suitable (I did not stop it, but then after removing the belt they can go away) (I think that it is necessary to stop it, ties from furniture with a long bolt will do)
9. With a marker and chalk, draw marks on the belt and gears (preferably in the area of the tooth)
10. Squeeze the tension roller (Torx T40 fits) and remove the belt
11. We transfer the marks to the new belt.
12. We put on a new belt by combining it with the tags.
13. Putting everything together in the reverse order.

Everything about everything takes about 2 hours (In principle, everything is so, but. Everything is so simple that it seems more difficult to go to the toilet. He would have to drink honey with his lips.)

The problem is typical only for engines with an automatic variable valve timing mechanism, namely, these are only F14D4 engines, all other Aveo engines, at the moment, do not have automatic valve timing, and therefore this problem is not inherent in them. GM has now corrected the design error, and the F14D4 engines are now being produced with new redesigned gears and phase regulator valves that are not affected by such an outrage, so that the problem is narrowed to the F14D4 engines from 2008-2009. How the automatic phase adjustment mechanism works and how it works can be found here

The essence of the problem lies in the unsuccessful design development of the camshaft gears, which contain a mechanism for automatically changing the valve timing. Inside such a gear are partitions made of thin stamped steel, which are destroyed from oil starvation at the time of starting a cold engine. The destruction occurs due to the delicate flimsy of these very stamped partitions, and the oil starvation itself is due to an incorrect design solution of the solenoid valves of the phase-regulating mechanism, which redistribute oil along the channels of the gears. BUT. The stated cause of the problem is presumptive and most reliable today, since it is adhered to by the overwhelming majority of experts and service providers. The exact reason, if known to GM, has not yet been announced anywhere.