DIY ford transit engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself ford transit engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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Self-repair of a vehicle is possible only in cases that do not require special equipment. It is clear that Ford Transit engine repair is not a simple operation - this requires special equipment, including injector and high pressure testers, as well as a professional diagnostic device.

At the same time, drivers need a Ford Transit manual - if only to determine the possible reasons for the strange behavior of the car. It is clear that maintenance and repairs of the engine must be carried out by the user in a timely manner - this is both an engine oil change and thorough diagnostics.

Engines with a volume of 2 are installed on the Ford Transit; 2.2; 2.4 liters. The most dangerous malfunction for such devices is the timing chain jump. In this case, there is not only a violation of the marks, but also the destruction of the cylinder head. It is clear that in this case, repair of the engine head will be required, which should only be carried out by professionals. The most favorable option for the development of events is the difficult operation of the engine, because the synchronization of the crankshaft and camshaft will be violated. Motors with such a malfunction should not be started in tow, because most jumps happen at this moment. In order to avoid the danger of chain jumping, it is necessary to carry out the following preventive work in a timely manner:

  • timely replacement of the timing chain,
  • replacement of chain tensioners,
  • replacement of guide shoes.

According to the regulations, the frequency of replacement of such devices is one hundred and fifty thousand kilometers.

Video (click to play).

Using non-original fuel filters is also unsafe for your vehicle. Long driving with the "wrong" components can lead to the need to repair the engine block. The fuel system located on the Ford Transit is very demanding on the quality of the fuel. The proper level of fuel preparation can only be ensured by using original fuel filters. By the way, in most cases the installed original nozzles are repairable - it is clear that you should contact a specialist to carry out repairs. If the part cannot be repaired, it can be replaced, and you can choose between new and remanufactured parts. It is clear that the remanufactured injectors are installed in the engine control unit with a correction stroke - this approach can ensure the correct operation of the replaced part.

In addition, the engine may need to be repaired even if the pressure reducing valve (metering unit) is out of order due to heavy dirt. In this case, you will need to replace the unit with a new one. By the way, when repairing a Ford Transit engine, you need to know that it is not in all cases that it is advisable to repair existing parts. It is more expedient to completely change some components. Moreover, in order to save money, you can use not new, but restored units.

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It is clear that the engine is a complex system, and an illiterate intervention in its work can lead to the most unexpected and unpleasant consequences. Therefore, there is only one way out - any malfunctions in the operation of the car, one way or another associated with possible engine malfunctions, must be resolved together with specialists.

As for the selection of spare parts, it is also better to entrust this issue to professionals. All the more so when it comes to restored elements. By the way, most of the companies that sell remanufactured units provide a good warranty for them.

Often, oil leaks occur on Ford engines, especially those operated in harsh conditions. It is easy to diagnose this malfunction, but you still should not deal with it yourself. Moreover, finding a specialized service center is not difficult today. The advantage in contacting specialists is also that in authorized centers you can easily purchase the necessary spare part. You should also not forget to replace the crankshaft oil seal once every three years.

Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]

Message nafanya59 »03 Feb 2011, 20:31

Message vil64 »03 Feb 2011, 21:09

Message black_chuck »03 Feb 2011, 23:07

Message nafanya59 »10 Feb 2011, 21:48

Message Green_Wulf »10 Feb 2011, 22:22

Message nafanya59 »11 Feb 2011, 08:20

According to the passport, the 4CA engine, and on the 4BF engine

Added after 1 minute 54 seconds:
Judging by the fact that the pistons and liners were standard, then most likely they did not make repairs

Message Green_Wulf »11 Feb 2011, 09:24

Looks like the engine has already changed.
By WIN number, except for the release date, nothing breaks through. Yes, and here already it would be necessary to pick up parts more likely according to the year of manufacture of the engine, and not the car itself.
With rings, it is more or less clear (the surprising constancy of Ford Image - DIY ford transit engine repair

) for all 2.5D engines from 03/15/1984 to 08/15/2000
Ring set:
Standard (nominal) 6193382
Obsolete (standard) 6161779
Retired 0.65mm. 6161780 6193383
Retired 1.0mm. 6161781 6193384

But with pistons it is more difficult. According to the catalog, the original comes complete with fingers and rings and it is written that they should be used only in sets!
1st overhaul 1019713
2nd overhaul 1019781
3rd overhaul 1019831
4th overhaul 1019995
Retired with 0.65mm rings. 1020147
Obsolete 1st repair 6161758
Obsolete 2nd renovation 6161755
Obsolete 3rd renovation 6161760
Obsolete 4th renovation 6161757
Obsolete code (replaced with another one) with 1.0mm rings. 6730607 (the other one, as I understand it, is 1030541 and 1020195)

In general, it's somehow sad with this bunch of codes. Look at the codes for the parts you bought. Maybe at least it will be possible to compare this way, although given the fact that Ford codes are given for the piston in a set with rings, and as I understand you bought everything separately, it is very interesting what original codes will be indicated there. Unless, of course, will be indicated at all.

  • With the help of the stereoscope, listen to all the paring points, because it can make noise.
  • Remove the valve cover, wipe the engine and see if oil is on the crank shaft. It should be sprayed on all the fists. Unlubricated distributor shaft can also become a source of noise.

If you need to replace the stove, you do not have to go to the autoservice and give the mats about 2000 rubles. Better to spend them in your pleasure and replace the stove with yourself. You don't know how? Then read the article.

The engine can be removed from the vehicle either with the transmission or separately. If a Ford Transit automatic transmission is installed, it is recommended to remove the engine separately from it, since the automatic transmission is a heavy unit and sufficient lifting equipment is required to lift it.

The engine (or power unit assembly) is removed from the Ford Transit vehicle forward and upward, therefore, you must first remove the radiator and the front body panel.

Rice. 12. Wires that must be disconnected before removing the Ford Transit engine (naturally aspirated engine)

1. Coolant temperature sensor, 2. Engine ground wire, 3. Oil pressure sensor, 4. Fuel filter water separator, 5. High pressure fuel pump starting device, 6. High pressure pump starting device (accelerator), High pressure fuel pump (Bosch), 7. Solenoid valve shutdown (injection pump)

Fig. 13. Vacuum hoses to be disconnected before removing the Ford Transit engine (turbocharged engine)

1. Hose from vacuum regulator to vacuum pump, 2. Hose from throttle body to intake manifold pressure sensor, 3. Hose from turbocharger to vacuum regulator, 4. Hose from recirculation valve to vacuum regulator

The procedure for removing the Ford Transit engine:

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare a lifting device of sufficient lifting capacity and a reliable jack (preferably movable). It is most convenient to install the car on the inspection pit.

Disconnect the battery ground wire. Drain the engine oil and screw in the drain plug. Drain the coolant. Remove the air filter.

Remove the Ford Transit hood, grille and front bumper.

Loosen the clamps and disconnect the hoses from the thermostat housing, remove the lower radiator hose and disconnect the heater hoses at the bulkhead of the engine compartment.

Remove the expansion tank by disconnecting its hoses and unscrewing the two screws. Remove the radiator together with the upper cross member of the bulkhead.

If the Ford Transit (naturally aspirated) engine is equipped with a recirculation system, remove the intake manifold.

On turbocharged engines, remove the intake pipe by disconnecting it from the turbocharger flange and from the intake manifold. Remove the nuts and disconnect the front exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.

If you have a power steering (power steering) Ford Transit, remove the power steering pump drive belt. Disconnect the pump bracket from the cylinder block and move the pump to the side so it does not interfere.

If an air conditioner is installed, remove the air conditioner compressor from the engine WITHOUT DISCONNECTING the hoses from it. Move the compressor to the side so it does not get in the way.

On Ford Transit engines without turbocharging, disconnect the accelerator cable from the injection pump and the bracket on the engine.

On turbocharged engines (models from 1995), remove the recirculation heat exchanger.

Disconnect the fuel supply pipe from the tank from the fuel filter (if there is a fuel priming pump, from the pump).

Disconnect the fuel return line from the injection pump. If the hoses have quick-release couplings, squeeze the protruding tabs on the coupling together and carefully
pull the hose off the tube.

Be careful not to lose the washers (if any). Close the openings carefully.

Disconnect the wires from the generator. Depending on the type of generator, the wires can be connected using connectors or fastened with nuts located under the plastic cover. Remember the location of the wires.

Fig. 14. Wires to Disconnect Before Removing Ford Transit Engine (Turbocharged Engine)

1. Bracket for attaching the wiring harness to the intake manifold, 2. Multi-pin connector for the EPIC electronic system on the injection pump, 3. Coolant temperature gauge sensor, 4. Temperature sensor, 5. Oil pressure sensor, 6. Engine ground wire, 7. Water separator fuel filter, 8. Crankshaft position / speed sensor, 9. Flare plug connector (cold start system)

Unscrew the union nut and disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump located on the generator.

Disconnect the wires and vacuum tubes (hoses) shown in fig. 12, 13 and 14 (if equipped, depending on engine model).

Disconnect the wires from the starter, remembering their location. If the transmission (gearbox) remains on the vehicle, remove the bolts and remove the starter.

On Ford Transit models from 1995 equipped with a turbocharger, unscrew the two nuts and remove the bolts that secure the steering rack to the front suspension beam.

Move the steering gear forward as far as possible. Disconnect the front exhaust pipe from the front muffler flange and remove it from the vehicle. Be careful not to lose the gaskets.

On Ford Transit vehicles with a manual transmission, disconnect the clutch lever cover from the clutch housing and slide the cover along the cable.

Disconnect the clutch cable end from the lever and detach the cable sheath from the clutch housing. Remove the cover from the cable.

If the Ford Transit is removed with the engine, perform the following additional operations (manual transmission):

- Remove the bottom and side engine covers by releasing the catches (if any).

- Remove the lower clutch housing cover.

- Remove the gear lever.

- Disconnect the reversing light switch wire from the transmission. Disconnect the electronic tachograph wire (if equipped).

- If a type G or MT75 gearbox is installed, drain the oil from it into the container provided. Replace the drain plug.

- Remove the fixing bolt and disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox.

- Disconnect the fuel lines attached to the clip on the top of the clutch housing. If the engine ground wire is attached to the clutch housing, disconnect it.

- Place a jack under the Ford Transit transmission to support it after disconnecting the rear support of the power unit.

- It is advisable to have a movable jack (on rollers) so that it can be moved forward when removing the power unit.

- Unscrew one (N or G type gearbox) or two (MT75 type gearbox) bolts that secure the rear support to the gearbox housing.

- Remove the four bolts (two on each side) and remove the rear support cross member.

If the Ford Transit is removed with the engine, do the following in addition (automatic transmission):

- On naturally aspirated engines, completely remove the front muffler pipe by disconnecting it from the manifold and from the front muffler.

- Disconnect the speedometer cable and (if available) the electronic tachograph wires from the transmission.

- In the Ford Transit cab, set the transmission mode switch to the "N" position.

- Disconnect the cable end from the ball pin on the transmission selector lever (fig. 13).

- Unscrew the two bolts and remove the cable bracket together with the cable. Move the cable to the side so that it does not get in the way.

- Disconnect the wire from the starter interlock switch. Disconnect the connector for the wires going to the kickdown solenoid.

- Pull out the transmission oil dipstick, then unscrew the fixing bolt and remove the dipstick guide tube. Close the dipstick hole on the transmission.

- Clean the area around the heat exchanger-to-transmission tube connections.

- Unscrew the fittings and disconnect the heat exchanger tubes (on the right side of the transmission).

- Close the holes in the transmission and the open ends of the pipes. Tie the tubes to the side so that they do not interfere.

- Place a jack under the Ford Transit transmission and slightly raise it to relieve the rear support of the power unit.

- Remove the bolt with which the rear support is attached to the gearbox housing.

- Remove the four bolts (two on each side) and remove the rear support cross member.

On models with a manual transmission, remove the lower clutch housing cover.

If MT 75 gearbox is installed, disconnect the reversing light switch wire.

If the transmission remains on the vehicle, on models with automatic transmission, remove the bolts and remove the engine / transmission brace.

Through the hole for the starter, unscrew the four nuts securing the torque converter to the drive plate (to get to all the nuts, you need to turn the engine crankshaft using the pulley bolt with a wrench).

Unscrew the lower nuts and washers from the Ford Transit engine support pads. If the transmission remains on the vehicle, remove the lower bolts securing the transmission to the engine.

Attach lifting straps to lifting eyes located diagonally at the front and rear of the engine.

If there are no lugs, they can be made by yourself, but at the same time they must be reliable enough to support the weight of the engine.

Remember that the lifting capacity of the lifting equipment must be suitable for the weight of the unit to be removed.

Place a jack under the transmission (if it has not been done before) and slightly raise it to relieve the rear support of the power unit.

If the transmission remains on the vehicle, remove the remaining transmission-to-engine bolts.

On late model models, the upper bolts also hold the fuel line retaining bracket. Separate the fuel line holders from the clip.

If the Ford Transit engine is removed with the transmission, lift it slightly to relieve the support and remove the support brackets from the cylinder block.

Make sure nothing is supporting the engine on the vehicle - all parts, wires and hoses are disconnected and secured to the side.

With the help of a second person, lift the engine (or power unit assembly) while pulling it forward from the engine compartment.

If the engine is removed separately, do not allow its weight to press on the transmission input shaft and clutch disc.

On vehicles with automatic transmission, make sure that the oil-filled torque converter does not move relative to the transmission - otherwise it may fall out, causing damage to the oil seal and excessive oil loss.

With the engine removed, carefully inspect all parts that are normally difficult to access (engine mounts, clutch, clutch release bearing, front gearbox oil seal, various lines and hoses). If you have the slightest doubt about the functionality of these parts, replace them.

If the Ford Transit engine was removed with the transmission, separate the transmission from the engine in the following order:

- Remove the bolts and remove the starter (manual transmission)

- Remove the clutch housing lower cover (if equipped).

- Remove the bolts securing the engine to the gearbox.

- Disconnect the box from the Ford Transit engine, keeping it suspended and moving it strictly along the axis of the crankshaft so that it does not rest its weight on the clutch disc (automatic transmission).

- Remove the tie between the engine and transmission. Through the hole for the starter, unscrew the four nuts securing the torque converter to the drive disc (to get to all the nuts, you need to turn the engine crankshaft using the pulley bolt).

- Remove the bolts and disconnect the transmission from the Ford Transit engine. When separating the transmission, be careful not to move the torque converter off the gearbox shaft, otherwise it may fall out of the transmission, resulting in seal damage and extensive oil loss.

- To hold the torque converter, press it against the transmission with the lever.

Installation of a Ford Transit diesel engine

On Ford Transit models with a manual transmission, grease the input shaft splines with a refractory grease before connecting the transmission to the engine.

When connecting the engine to the gearbox, do not allow the load from the weight of the engine or gearbox to fall on the clutch disc - carefully align the gearbox with the engine, insert the splines of the input shaft into the clutch disc, install the gearbox on the guide pins and screw in the fastening bolts.

On Ford Transit models with automatic transmission, make sure that the distance between the front surface of the converter hub and the surface of the transmission case is at least 21 mm.

Make sure that the torque converter does not budge when attaching the transmission.

When attaching the transmission to a Ford Transit engine, insert the torque converter studs into the holes on the drive disc on the engine.

After connecting the transmission to the engine, check the torque converter for ease of rotation, and only then tighten the bolts.

After installing the engine on the legs, make sure that the clearances between the bottom edges of the rubber pads and the chassis brackets are the same on both sides.

Use a new gasket and new self-locking nuts when attaching the front exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold.

Tighten all fasteners while maintaining the required torque. Do not forget that one of the bolts holds the ground wire of the power unit - tighten this bolt after installing the engine on the vehicle and connecting the ground wire.

Be sure to remove the temporary plugs that cover the openings before connecting pipes and hoses. If the quality of the hoses and clamps of the cooling system is in doubt, replace them.

After completing the assembly, carefully check the correctness and reliability of the connection of wires, hoses, pipelines, etc. Remember to add oil and coolant to the engine.

Check the oil level in the power steering and automatic transmission (if equipped). Adjust the accelerator cable. Adjust the tension of the drive belt (s).

A short block costs 65-70 thousand rubles. Therefore, everyone decides the expediency of repair for himself. Anyway.

Problems and reliability of the Ford Transit 2.0 diesel engine (2.0 DI Duratorq). Where to buy a contract motor motor.

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  • Repair of diesel engines Ford Transit

The line of American Ford Transit vehicles produced in Europe is represented by cargo and microvans. The model was launched in 1965. The production of the most modern model in the series dates back to 2006. With thousands of kilometers of wind, a workhorse is arguably one of the most reliable vehicles in its class. Unfortunately, such practical machines have their weak points. One of them is the diesel engine.

The model is equipped with engines of the following types: Duratorg TDCi with a volume of 2.2; 2.4 and 3.2 liters, and Duratec, with a volume of 2.3 liters. Such motors are equipped with a turbocharging system to increase power. Diesel units are distinguished by their simple design and high maintainability.

Malfunctions arising from intensive use of the car cannot always be eliminated on your own. Many operations require the use of special equipment: diagnostic devices (IDS VCM, Bosch KTS), high pressure testers and injectors (Delphi). However, the ability to independently determine the reasons for the atypical operation of the engine has not stopped anyone yet. Moreover, the simplest maintenance operations - changing engine oil, diagnostics are the direct responsibility of every car owner.

Repair of diesel engines Ford Transit provided in case of occurrence:

· Increased fuel or oil consumption;

· Problems with starting the engine and its spontaneous stopping;

· Atypical odor and colored exhaust fumes;

Extraneous knocking when the motor is running under load;

The appearance of at least one of the listed signs is a reason for an early appeal to a car service. Timely maintenance repairs will cost much less than a forced overhaul.

Repair of diesel engines Ford Transit can be subdivided into current, medium and capital. Its main stages are:

· Stage of disassembly of the power unit;

· Troubleshooting of engine parts;

· Repair or replacement of defective parts (if necessary);

· Assembly of the repaired unit;

The main disadvantage of the Ford Transit diesel engine is the jump of the gas distribution chain, which entails the occurrence of problems with the cylinder head (destruction). As a rule, a damaged part cannot be restored and it must be replaced with a new one. The problem can be prevented only by timely replacement of the timing chain together with guide shoes and a chain tensioner.The technical regulations require periodic replacement of the unit after every 150 thousand km of run.

The Ford fuel system is also particularly sensitive. The minimum requirements for stable engine operation is the use of high-quality original fuel filters and fuel. Failure to comply with these requirements sooner or later leads to the need to clean the fuel line, expensive repair of the high pressure pump and fuel injectors. Original injectors are quite maintainable and only in extremely advanced cases are they replaced with new parts.

Severe contamination can lead to failure of the pressure reducing valve (dosing unit). Most likely, to solve the problem, you will need to replace the defective unit with a new or refurbished one. In order to save money in garages, remanufactured parts and assemblies of fairly good quality are often used.

Another problem with a Ford diesel is oil leakage. And if the diagnosis of this malfunction does not cause any difficulties, then it is better to entrust its elimination to the masters of the car service. Preventive replacement of crankshaft oil seals will prevent unexpected and costly repairs.

Recommended sequence repair of diesel engines Ford Transit.

  1. valve cover;
  2. the front cover of the unit;
  3. crankshaft position sensor;
  4. rocker axles;
  5. loosening, fixing and removing the chain tensioner and the timing belt damper;
  6. upper timing chain guide;
  7. sprockets for the drive of the shaft chain and timing chain;
  8. supports of camshafts and the camshafts themselves;
  1. preliminary cleaning of the contact surfaces of the camshaft and cylinder head;
  2. setting the crankshaft at top dead center and fixing the crankshaft position sensor;
  3. installation of camshafts and their supports;
  4. installation of the timing chain tensioner and damper;
  5. installation of chain drive sprockets and timing chain;
  6. fixing the chain drive sprockets;
  7. installation of the upper guide of the timing chain;
  8. loosening, adjustment and subsequent fixation of the fuel pump gear mounts;
  9. unlocking the timing chain tensioner;
  10. fixing the bolts of the camshaft chain sprocket and the fuel pump gear;
  11. removing the retainer from the crankshaft position sensor;
  12. installation of the axis of the rocker arms;
  13. turn the crankshaft two turns (clockwise);
  14. check valve timing;
  15. setting the ignition timing;
  16. installation of the crankshaft position sensor;
  17. installation of the engine front cover and valve cover.

It is best to entrust the selection of quality spare parts, both new and remanufactured, to professional service technicians.

Removal and installation of the motor.