DIY fp engine repair

Mazda FP engines are modifications of FS engines with a reduction in their size. The technique is very similar to the FS in terms of design, but features an original cylinder block, crankshaft, as well as pistons and connecting rods.

FP engines are equipped with a 16-valve head with two camshafts located on top of the cylinder head. The gas distribution mechanism is driven by a toothed belt.

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The motors are equipped with hydraulic lifters. Engine ignition type is "distributor". There are two types of FP engines - a 100 or 90 horsepower model. The compression power of the latest model reaches 9.6: 1, it differs in the firmware and the diameter of the throttle valve.

The Mazda FP has excellent functionality and is robust enough. An engine can travel over 300,000 kilometers with regular maintenance and only good quality lubricants and fuels. In addition, the Mazda FP engine can be completely overhauled as it is subject to overhaul.

The four-stroke, 16-valve petrol engines are equipped with four cylinders and an electronically controlled fuel injection system. The engine has a longitudinal cylinder with pistons. The crankshaft is common, its camshafts are placed on top. The closed engine cooling system runs on a special fluid and maintains forced circulation. A combined engine lubrication system is suitable for FP.

• Change of oil. The interval of 15 thousand kilometers is the rate of oil change intensity for Mazda cars of the Capella, 626 and Premacy models. These cars have engines of the FP type, 1.8 liters in size. Dry engines can hold up to 3.7 liters of engine oil. If the oil filter changes during the replacement procedure, the oil needs to be poured exactly 3.5 liters. If the filter is not replaced, 3.3 liters of engine oil is added. API oil classification - SH, SG and SJ. Viscosity - SAE 10W-30, which means off-season oil.
• Replacing the timing belt. According to the maintenance regulations, this procedure must be carried out at an interval of once per 100,000 kilometers of the vehicle's run.
• Replacing spark plugs. The candles must also be replaced once every 30,000 kilometers. If platinum plugs are installed in the engine, they are replaced every 80,000 kilometers. For Mazda FP engines, Denso PKJ16CR8, NGK BKR5E-11 and Champion RC9YC spark plugs are recommended.
• Replacing the air filter. This part must be replaced every 40,000 kilometers the vehicle has traveled. The filter must be checked every 20,000 kilometers.
• Replacing the cooling system. The coolant is changed in the engine every two years and is filled into a special container with a capacity of 7.5 liters.

Ignat Aleksandrovich, 36 years old, Mazda 626, 1996: I received a used foreign car on order, the car has been perfectly preserved since the 90s. A good 1.8 - 16v engine was in average condition, I had to replace the spark plugs and go through it. It is easy to do it manually, you just need to memorize the fixing schemes for parts and fuel lines. I would like to note the good quality of the revised engine.

Dmitry Fedorovich, 50 years old, Mazda Capella, produced in 2000: I am generally satisfied with the FP engine. Taking a used car, I had to sort out the engine and change the fuel filters, as well as consumables. The main thing is to control the level of engine oil and use only high-quality fuel. Then a car with such an engine will be able to serve for a long time.

I am the owner of a 1999 Mazda 323BJ.with motor FP 1840cm 114 hp according to the passport, European. Mazda 323BJ Familia from Japan. There is exactly the same engine FP 1840cm, but 135 horses according to the passport. Asked the Question: Where is this 21 horse hiding? In the gland of the motor or in the ICE control unit? Studying ShopManual For hardware repair of internal combustion engines FP 1840, I did not find any difference at all between 323F BJ Europe and 323BJ Familia Japan. Even ECUs are the same by connector. From which I conclude that there are 21 horses hiding in the ICE control unit. And if they're hiding in the Famili ECU, how do I get these 21 horses into my 114hp ECU? Who can help with this and how? Prompt solutions or options, the price of the issue. Maybe someone has already passed this round of evolution. And the next question is about the iron of the engine, and we will talk about the cylinder head. Interchangeability of FP and FS cylinder heads. We are the owners of the above mentioned engine FP 1840cm standing on MAZD 323F BJ, we have in the bins of the Motherland the block head from the FS-ZE engine. Is it possible to install a cylinder head from an FS-ZE engine on an FP block? And will it all start on the existing brains ECU with 114 hp? ? What pitfalls can there be?

The machine began to eat more and more oil. True, after a trip to Tula at a speed of under 200 it became less for 3000 km, but then the consumption gradually increased, although I twisted it the same way, 2 liters of synthetics 5 w 30 per 1000 km. But I did not observe gray smoke, periodically I observed a slight blue in the morning, but not a steam locomotive at the station. The last compression measurement before parsing and running 180120 km showed 12.8, 7.8, 12.5, 12.7. I measured it several times, but the result is +/- 0.1. Except for 2 cylinders, oil in the cylinder, compression 13, as if the rings lay down, I thought, but after parsing it turned out to be wear. At the same time, the engine worked smoothly, without failures, and accelerated under 200 km / h. So we begin to understand adult horses, in crowds of little ponies and other kinds of animals living, somewhere in cars.

Stage 1. search from a simple one.

I liked the trick, I accidentally discovered when the ABS, TCS, TCS off system was off, my cutoff became not 6500, but 7500. Who didn't check it? After the electrics everything was installed back. The ECU is only needed to control the work of the iron. You need to look for horses in the gland))))).

Armed with a flashlight, a barbell with a compass and a pocket tool, he asked to climb on racks with engines from Mazda on Starokaluzhskoe highway. And I found several motors there, what they call FS-ZE. He took off the valve covers from everyone, measured p, v. examined and chose the one on which it was written 52450km, the cleanest inside, with automatic transmission and 4WD. After unscrewing what I do not need (automatic transmission and 4 WD), it was bought, loaded into the trunk and taken to a den for further analysis and analysis. Yes, disassembled to the screw. I will not install a cat-in-a-poke motor or a lottery, and I was not going to install one for myself, I bought it for comparison. I took it apart quickly. Decomposed.

Since capital light is not my approach, and the engine consumes huge amounts of oil, I took it off the car for a complete overhaul and comparison of parts with FS-ZE. Disassembled and laid out everything side by side. I took a measuring tool, new spare parts, literature, a phone with a camera and started. Also photographed FS intake manifolds for information (black box below) and FP with variable intake manifold geometry

Stage 4. Valve inlet receivers and nozzles.

The FS-ZE has the largest receiver in terms of volume, it differs from my FP by almost a letter. There are dampers inside and there and there.
The nozzles for 1 minute of the experiment from FS-ZE (dark purple and dark green) poured a little more than from FP (brown and blue) by about 6-10 ml.
Fuel Valve FP 34 from FS-ZE I don't know yet how it differs from FP 47 on the FP engine except for the attachment point on the fuel rail. The book says the operation of the brie at higher speeds, we will check it in practice later.

Stage 5. Throttle valve
At the entrance to the FP 57mm, to the FS-ZE 58 mm, but I think this is not important, since the shutter of the FS-ZE and FP are the same 56 mm.

Both cylinder heads are identical as two peas, which disappointed me a little. R / v drive sprockets with marks, combustion chambers, valves, channels, inlet, outlet cooling system channels, mechanical pushers with shims, FSH9 castings, cylinder head fasteners are all the same on FP and FS-ZE. I was very pleased that it is possible, without modifications, to install valve hydraulic pushers instead of mechanical pushers with adjusting washers, there are oil channels for each pusher separately.

I will put the cylinder head from the FS-ZE engine so it is fresher and boded less hassle.The block head was washed disassembled, all the gaps were checked, everything turned out to be like new with a run of 52,000, the caps were replaced, the surface was milled and put back together, it lies wrapped up waiting in the wings.

Stage 7. Camshafts.

I hold the graduation in my hands and think if they are the same, then once again I will make sure myself that in the ECU on these motors it makes no sense at all to climb how the Japanese primitively reliably did the work of the ICE control unit without problems and self-adaptation (I passed industrial and road construction equipment with ECUs). Yes, the exhaust camshafts and the lift and cam width are the same. Cam lift on outlet 8.1 (cam height 43.2 minus base 35.1) on both FP and FS-ZE. Still no one is not ridiculous to pay tax for the mythical 170 little ponies, as for adult horses in Russian conditions)))) For me, this is called a divorce, do not be offended.

The intake camshafts are different, but not critical, and up to 170 forces in all parameters does not reach the wheel. The maximum, according to my calculations, is up to real wheel-mounted 140 hp. Intake cam lift on FP 8.0 engine (cam height 43.1 minus base 35.1). Intake cam lift on FS-ZE 8.5 engine (cam height 43.85 minus base 35.35). The intake cam profile is wider on the FS-ZE than on the FP.
In my opinion, you can easily put an intake shaft with a rise of up to 9.6 mm here without alterations, modifications and on hydrics. The question is where to get this good.

Stage 8. Cylinder head gasket

Please take a closer look at the photo with cylinder head gaskets. The thickness of the gaskets is the same, all the holes match perfectly, BUT on the FS-ZE engine, which, according to the manufacturer, has 170 ponies and a compression ratio of 10.5 and, accordingly, the heat transfer is higher into the cooling system, the channels in the gasket are small holes. And FP, which has 114 hp, 9.1 degree, less heat transfer, normal channels for cooling in the cylinder head gasket. In our operating conditions, I probably would put a cylinder head gasket from FP on the FS-ZE engine. It is unclear why the Japanese did this. As for the compression ratio, I had doubts, and it was not in vain, having measured and spilled my cylinder head and the piston, I got that in my FP the compression ratio is 9.7-9.8, although the book says 9.1. A typo or modification, I think the second, the head before me was definitely not milled and no one climbed into the motor. Also, all the chambers in the FS-ZE spill in the head of the block are the same in volume and received a compression ratio of 10.4-10.5, which, according to foreign books, is more consistent with reality when installing FP pistons in FS-ZE.

Step 9. Piston Rods & Cylinder Block Pump

The pumps are identical, the differences are with a rubber seal due to the different heights of the cylinder block. The oil pumps are identical. Cranks in different lengths, FS-ZE longer than FP. The cylinder block of different heights FS-ZE is higher than FP. K.V. are the same in all respects, they have a casting with a stamp which group and in which cylinder what is from the factory. FS-ZE was BGGB, and FP was BBBBB.

It was also nice to find original MAZDA parts three times cheaper, but in different boxes. For example, the inserts in the photo are all original with the MAZDA brand, on the left from the MAZDA box, in the middle of the used one. the connecting rod original, and AutoWelt. I also compared the piston AutoWelt and what was in the engine, the same thing. Some firewood, but in a different package. It is for information only. When boring a cylinder block and ordering spare parts, include in the list and there are no oil injectors in Moscow at a normal price. Maybe it's just a coincidence for me. What I found in Moscow for 2400 rubles for 1 piece did not suit me. I ordered through exist for 1200 rubles for a set of 4 pieces. But the delivery time is 2 weeks. Gaskets, oil seals, etc. A complete kit of gaskets was bought by AutoWelt for 2400 rubles, and the original for 8100. Compared AutoWelt oil seals liked it more than the original NOK. But I came to the conclusion, the conclusion was made by the m / s caps that everything was from one plant from Taiwan)))). Then he handed over the original back.

While everything is disassembled and waiting for spare parts, you can ask what is interesting. The assembly will begin in 2 weeks at the earliest.

170 h.p. with FS-ZE we can get it only on a flywheel without attachments, which is what Japanese tovarischi do in the automotive industry.
This motor can produce no more than 140 hp on the wheel. with attachments (generator, kondeya compressor, rollers, etc.) and transmission losses.
Therefore, owners of purely Japanese cars pay up to 40% insurance tax, etc. for air according to Russian and European standards.

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Group: Beginner
Posts: 21
Registration: 03.12.2013
From: Shakhty

Said thanks: 2 times
Auto: mazda 626 GE

Good afternoon to all members of the forum.
I am tormented by the question: to make capital with my own hands or to give it to others? The fact is that 5000 km ago he gave the car (mazda 626 ge, according to the passport, the fp 1.8 engine, but FS is written on his head) into the wrong hands for kapitalka light, changed the rings (TP), MSC, gaskets (VictorReunz). After changing the oil, the car started to smoke in the morning (see photo). Measured the compression: 14,14,14,13.5. There is a garage, a pit too, hands are growing from that place, but there is no experience in repairing engines. I read a lot of information on engine repair, there is a Manual for the repair and operation of this car, bought a torque wrench 5-25 Nm, took a 0-120 Nm switch from a friend. There is a great desire to make repairs yourself, but there are also fears.
Question: can I count on your help? or is it worth digging up some money and giving it to a good workshop or private hands?

Post has been edited BAV2102 - Dec 4 2013, 22:07

Group: MAZDAvod
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Name: Zheka

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Group: MAZDAvod
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From: Nikolaev

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Name: Kostya

Group: Beginner
Posts: 21
Registration: 03.12.2013
From: Shakhty

Said thanks: 2 times
Auto: mazda 626 GE

Today is the first day of disassembling the engine, I ran into the following problems: I can not unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. I unscrew it like this: I turn on the fifth gear and with the help of an assistant I press the brake pedal, I unscrew this bolt myself. Until it is unscrewed, the infection.
in this connection the question:
1) Is the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt unscrewed clockwise or not? Maybe you need to hit sharply?

Question 2: how to unscrew the 2 bolts (extreme) of the lower intake manifold, otherwise it is practically impossible to crawl to them?

Today is the first day of disassembling the engine, I ran into the following problems: I can not unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. I unscrew it like this: I turn on the fifth gear and with the help of an assistant I press the brake pedal, I unscrew this bolt myself. Until it is unscrewed, the infection.
in this connection the question:
1) Is the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt unscrewed clockwise or not? Maybe you need to hit sharply?

Question 2: how to unscrew the 2 bolts (extreme) of the lower intake manifold, otherwise it is practically impossible to crawl to them?

Group: MAZDAvod
Posts: 101
Registration: 06.10.2013
From: Melitopol

Thank you said: 1 time (s)
Auto: Mazda 626GE
Name: Nikolay

The crankshaft pulley retaining bolt is unscrewed AGAINST clockwise.

Take a big "Verlo", and when the thread it breaks all the same))) further will be hemorrhagic Pulley pull off.
Although I do not understand why you need to unscrew it, if you get the motor with a gamuz when you get it, then suffer. And the pulley will be easier to remove.

Group: MAZDAvod
Posts: 313
Registration: 26.07.2011
From: Volnovakha

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Name: Andrey

Group: Beginner
Posts: 21
Registration: 03.12.2013
From: Shakhty

Said thanks: 2 times
Auto: mazda 626 GE

And in a semi-disassembled state of the engine (see photo), can you try to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt with a starter? I haven't drained the oil yet. The antifreeze is drained.
I hope not to remove the motor block, I hope that it will be hon and there will be no need to bore the block.

And in a semi-disassembled state of the engine (see photo), can you try to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt with a starter? I haven't drained the oil yet. The antifreeze is drained.

Post has been edited BAV2102 - Dec 5 2013, 18:19

Group: MAZDAvod
Posts: 399
Registration: 16.07.2012
From: Odessa

Said thanks: 17 times
Auto: Mazda 626 GD 2.0d 1989
Name: Zheka

And in a semi-disassembled state of the engine (see photo), can you try to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt with a starter? I haven't drained the oil yet. The antifreeze is drained.
I hope not to remove the motor block, I hope that it will be hon and there will be no need to bore the block.

And in a semi-disassembled state of the engine (see photo), can you try to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt with a starter? I haven't drained the oil yet. The antifreeze is drained.

Group: MAZDAvod
Posts: 237
Registration: 31.10.2011
From: Nikolaev

Said thanks: 3 times
Auto: Mazda 626
Name: Kostya

Today is the first day of disassembling the engine, I ran into the following problems: I can not unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. I unscrew it like this: I turn on the fifth gear and with the help of an assistant I press the brake pedal, I unscrew this bolt myself. Until it is unscrewed, the infection.
in this connection the question:
1) Is the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt unscrewed clockwise or not? Maybe you need to hit sharply?

Question 2: how to unscrew the 2 bolts (extreme) of the lower intake manifold, otherwise it is practically impossible to crawl to them?

Today is the first day of disassembling the engine, I ran into the following problems: I can not unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. I unscrew it like this: I turn on the fifth gear and with the help of an assistant I press the brake pedal, I unscrew this bolt myself. Until it is unscrewed, the infection.
in this connection the question:
1) Is the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt unscrewed clockwise or not? Maybe you need to hit sharply?

Question 2: how to unscrew the 2 bolts (extreme) of the lower intake manifold, otherwise it is practically impossible to crawl to them?

Group: Beginner
Posts: 21
Registration: 03.12.2013
From: Shakhty

Said thanks: 2 times
Auto: mazda 626 GE

Thank you all for your help (who helped).
I unscrewed the crankshaft pulley bolt, removed my head.
I have not removed the piston yet, I have not taken measurements (so far there is nothing). I really do not want to remove the block.
Now advise:
1) there is no hone on the walls of the cylinder, does this mean what should be given for boring and honing or not?
2) if you pay for boring and honing (we have it for 1,500 rubles), then first you need to buy a piston or buy a piston after boring?
3) I looked at the existe pistons +0.25 there are not even analogues, where can I buy them?
4) I want to give my head to a car workshop to replace MSCs, lapping valves, what do you think is the right decision or do it yourself?
5) the better to dissolve, remove carbon deposits from the valves?
6) how to determine the condition of the camshafts?
7) when removing the block, are there any pitfalls? Or just unscrew all the bolts and it comes off?

I climbed on an Internet, the original piston is 6000 rubles, rings are 5000 rubles, I think it might get confused with a contract engine, for example, and not really take a steam bath. In fact, I have an FS head, an FP unit, if I buy this engine (FS), will it fit into my gearbox? in my car? Who thinks about the contract engine?

Post has been edited BAV2102 - Dec 6 2013, 19:43

Group: MAZDAvod
Posts: 417
Registration: 02.02.2012
From: Ukraine

Said thanks: 38 times
Auto: Kia Ked

Thank you all for your help (who helped).
I unscrewed the crankshaft pulley bolt, removed my head.
I have not removed the piston yet, I have not taken measurements (so far there is nothing). I really do not want to remove the block.
Now advise:
1) there is no hone on the walls of the cylinder, does this mean what should be given for boring and honing or not?
2) if you pay for boring and honing (we have it for 1,500 rubles), then first you need to buy a piston or buy a piston after boring?
3) I looked at the existe pistons +0.25 there are not even analogues, where can I buy them?
4) I want to give my head to a car workshop to replace MSCs, lapping valves, what do you think is the right decision or do it yourself?
5) what is the best way to remove carbon deposits from valves?
6) how to determine the condition of the camshafts?
7) when removing the block, are there any pitfalls? Or just unscrew all the bolts and it comes off?

I climbed on an Internet, the original piston is 6000 rubles, rings are 5000 rubles, I think it might get confused with a contract engine, for example; main_engine = FS and not take a steam bath, although who knows what will come?

1. Hon is not an indicator, it is necessary to measure the wear.
2.measure wear, determine the required size of pistons, buy a piston, bore for them.
4. It is better to entrust the head to specialists, only those who have been engaged in this type of work for at least 5 years. be sure to check the plane to the block (milling if necessary), if necessary replace the valve / valve bushings, check the valve seats and grind the valves.
5.Clean the valve from the nagarakapana at least manually with a knife from a metal saw, at least in a lathe with stones. the chamfer of the valve disc is leveled on a special machine, or do not touch it at all.
6.measuring tool, micrometer bore gauge
7cm manual

there is such a strong wear that the next repair does not work. as an economical option if the old pistons look like for a long time, then you can plug the block and bore it to the size of your old pistons

contract "pig in a poke", but also an option if the office is serious.

Perhaps I'll start, In the subject I ask you not to crap, only on the case. I will supplement in the course of the repair.
To begin with, thanks to Sergey (osja73) for kindly providing his motor for the experiments.

Today it was finally disassembled and measured, however, not everything is just liners and HF.

From the measurements it can be seen that the clearance in the liners is the maximum allowable, despite the fact that both the liners and the KB necks are in excellent condition.
To summarize, all liners for replacement without grinding KV necks. I left a notebook with the results of measurements at work, so I write only the conclusions made for myself. If anyone needs these numbers, I will post them next time.

When inspecting the piston on all pistons, the oil scraper rings are located, on the 1st and 3rd pistons, the second compression ring was also coked. There is abundant carbon deposits on the piston heads, in 1 and 3 pistons, traces of carbon contact with the valves are visible.

Hello everyone. First, I want to write an anamnesis. To make it clearer.

In the spring of 2008, I noticed that the car started to smoke on a cold one. This smoke is white and does not smell anything criminal. Appears a few seconds after starting the internal combustion engine (15-20 sec) and disappears after about a minute. The mileage at that time was about 200 thousand. Oil poured only shell synthetics, then I tried dexelia, in the end I settled on an elf.

The first spring thaws ended and with them the smoke disappeared. It seems to have calmed down. But in the fall, when the temperature dropped to 0, the situation repeated itself. I started smoking forums and fakies trying to find out the reasons. In the same period of time, oil began to slowly eat up from a liter for 2000-3000-5000 km, up to a liter for 1000. Depending on the city / intercity driving.

I was morally preparing for the capital, as I found out that only the capital helped 100%.

And then in February 2009 there was an accident in which the entire front part of the car was damaged. And since the car is still waiting for payments and spare parts, it was decided to open the internal combustion engine and see what is there? I must say right away that the radiators, the bumper, the headlights and many parts of the TV, the hood were removed from me, awaiting replacement. Therefore, I had direct and hemorrhoid-free access to all sites. It is better to remove the internal combustion engine radiator, since there is not very much space left there, and the antifreeze will still be drained. Focus on removing the intake, radiators, draining the coolant. fluid, timing I will not, since all this is in the fake, this is the second time if the simple removal of the power steering pump is annoying, then it is not necessary to climb into the internal combustion engine at all. There won't be a lot of photos either.

Spare parts that are needed (minimum):

Intake manifold gasket

Exhaust manifold gasket

The pump, since I have never changed it yet.

I took with a margin of 10 pieces, why I myself do not know.

Valve cover gasket

1. Removing the camshafts.
It is practically impossible to mix up parts during removal. Each camshaft mount is numbered. I made only a general plan of the situation so as not to forget. And it is advisable to do this too. For example 10 the lid was first put on the contrary. The camshaft sprockets do not need to be removed. If you have a tool with a thin wrench, it can be unscrewed like that. We begin to shoot from the edges to the center in several passes. At first I pulled the puff on everyone. Then he slowly turned it out with his hands.Do not unscrew immediately! The shafts bend quite noticeably - the load on them is not small, there is a risk of bending it. (Maybe not, I was oozing about it). I will add that almost all fasteners need only to be ripped off - after that they can be easily twisted by hand. The camshafts themselves are also difficult to confuse - they are signed accordingly. In and EX i.e. inlet and outlet. Since the shafts are seriously skewed during removal and the covers wedge during removal, sometimes you have to tap with a mallet. In the photo, the order of unscrewing is numbered (in red. And the numbering of the Covers (in green).

3. Bottom
Now we move under the car. We remove the protection. We see the oil pan. (For some reason, some pictures were lost :(, the roofing felts were removed or disappeared. It was discovered after assembly. into the gap between the pallet and the lower part of the block. Only after passing 30% around the perimeter did it move away. Then, when inspecting the pallet, I realized that Japanese engineers are not stupid. But it is better to walk with a thin knife IMHO it will be more whole. Somewhere I read in our conference about removing the pallet - but for some reason I was sure that there was a gasket, but it turned out to be wrong. Having removed the pallet, we see the amplifier of the pallet and the oil intake pipe. tube, it is held by three easily accessible bolts. We begin to unscrew the reinforcement of the pallet. Having unscrewed all the visible bolts, we remove two rubber plugs (arrows),

we take a long crank, and look for two more fasteners under them. They can be blocked by the nuts on the toothed flywheel, so just turn it by hand and everything will be ok. Strengthening the pallet is also missed conscientiously with factory sealant, so it is difficult to remove it. however, there is also a nuance here. We insert the assembly into the slot here and ...

and press harder, realizing that it was not in vain that they removed the radiator. And that's all - the pallet amplifier can be easily removed. You can stick it in deeper, there is 1-2 cm depth. With his hands, take off anril full, and even after walking with a knife, it is unlikely that it will work. The sealant is very good and the places are hard to reach. Another obstacle has been removed and we see the crankshaft. Fastening the connecting rods with multi-faceted bolts of this kind.

The hex head does not fit 10, 11 is large. Either look for a multifaceted head of 10. Or unscrew this one.

We lower the pistons down in turn and unscrew the connecting rods, carefully folding the parts into the signed boxes. The connecting rod caps must remain in the caps! By the way, this is another guarantee that you will not mix it up when you put it. At the same time, we assess the condition of the connecting rod bearings - mine are normal. No scratches, nothing, clean mirror finish. But it's better to change all the same. 😉 We take out the pistons by gently knocking out through the bottom with a wooden stick or a long thick screwdriver with tape wound on the tip. We see the stuck oil rings, although the compression ones are well done. I read that the pistons need to be cleaned with soft strips from aluminum, all kinds of scrapers, but this is not our method. We are waiting until the wife is at home. We sign with a stroke or a marker of the piston in the area of ​​the connecting rod and boil the piston in a saucepan with powder. We take them out, rinse them under distilled water, spray with WD and wrap them in an oil rag. Nothing will happen to them until tomorrow. I boiled for about an hour, after which they became like in the photo, which satisfied me.
Piston DO

In progress ... 🙂

pistons after

Nikolay38 »Wed Feb 10, 2010 20:13

onix »Wed Feb 10, 2010 20:21

Everything is possible, the question is whether it is necessary.

In connection with what you want to replace the motor?

Nagornaya: 8 (495) 234-72-83, 8 (495) 737-99-39
Tushino: 8 (495) 669-57-43, 8 (495) 669-55-40
Body: 8-926-112-67-67

Nikolay38 »Thu Feb 11, 2010 17:28

onix »Thu Feb 11, 2010 18:40

FPDE and FP are the same for iron, so, by itself, the motor will stand up without problems, the differences are in the control system for the operation of the internal combustion engine, therefore, either change the control unit and wiring, or, if you want to keep the native wiring and control unit, change all attachments, in including the cylinder head.
By the way, with the same success you can install FS or FSDE, installation problems are absolutely the same, but you will get a real increase in power.
The truth is that now it is probably difficult to find a live FS.

Nagornaya: 8 (495) 234-72-83, 8 (495) 737-99-39
Tushino: 8 (495) 669-57-43, 8 (495) 669-55-40
Body: 8-926-112-67-67

Nikolay38 »Thu Feb 11, 2010 19:29

onix »Thu Feb 11, 2010 21:21

I repeat once again, you can take any engine: FP, FS, FPDE, FSDE.
Any of these engines can be installed in your car without any problems; the whole question is how to connect the control system.
Therefore, if you need a DE engine, you need a harness and a control unit (the unit is located in the cabin behind the radio), or rearrange all attachments from your old engine and then you can connect to the standard control system.

Nagornaya: 8 (495) 234-72-83, 8 (495) 737-99-39
Tushino: 8 (495) 669-57-43, 8 (495) 669-55-40
Body: 8-926-112-67-67

Nikolay38 »Fri Feb 12, 2010 20:40

onix »Mon Feb 15, 2010 12:28 pm

Yes, just reposition the flywheel.

Nagornaya: 8 (495) 234-72-83, 8 (495) 737-99-39
Tushino: 8 (495) 669-57-43, 8 (495) 669-55-40
Body: 8-926-112-67-67

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Author Topic: Capital "light" or symbiosis FP vs FS (Read 15633 times)

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Part 1. Introduction.