P.S. : Many thanks to our Vitaly from the club service station Kiev, for the valve and advice, and to the teammate Serega from Odessa for useful tips.
Believe Roma, this gasket, in my case, was the MAIN reason for the oil consumption! And in the fact that it is found not only in engines of the GA series, you are absolutely right!
And where did you find the expression “such a thing” in that post of mine? Or was it about me?
As far as I know, this small gasket is the problem due to which, in the description of Almer, you always hear “eating butter”. In Russia, this problem has long been gone, tk. they know about this gasket.
The Nissan ga16de engine is a striking representative of the popular line from the manufacturer Nissan, because it is this unit that has earned the trust of many motorists. An extensive, widespread range of engines has taken a leading position in the automotive market, as a result of which it has confirmed not only quality, but also efficiency.
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The units were manufactured by Yokohama Plant, a well-known Japanese company. When developing the GA 15 DE line, back in 1987, 1.6 liter versions of engines were produced in parallel, the main difference of which was an increase in the diameter of all cylinders, and in particular from 73.6 to 76 mm. The GA 16 DE units already had the new 9.5 compression pistons.
This motor is the first "bulky" version, the full production of which began in 1990. The carburetor types of engines from the GA 16 series were installed on European cars, and the vehicles of the Japanese manufacturer had GA 16 DE engines, which were distinguished by the presence of an electronic fuel injection system. A similar "division" of engines continued until the end of 1995, after which European cars were equipped with electronic fuel injection. Thus, since 1995, the GA 16 DE has been installed on all vehicles with certain characteristics. The power of the cars could be different, ranged from 102 - 110 horsepower. The production of units continued until the end of 2011.
Engines have proven themselves excellently for several years, because they are not demanding on fuel, as well as oil. Moreover, Nissan thought everything out so correctly that even the operation of the unit is unpretentious.
For an example of characteristics, it is worth considering all the data in a special table:
The design of the engines, regardless of their power and other indicators, does not differ: the cast-iron block has an aluminum head, as well as 2 timing chains.
The resource of the motor, depending on the operation, may be different. Although the units are unpretentious, when using low-quality fuel or oil, its resource is reduced to a total mileage of 300 thousand kilometers. With the right approach to the operation of the facility, its resource is 500 and more thousand kilometers. For proper operation, it is necessary to adjust the valve clearances every 50 thousand mileage, change the oil, candles, and filters in a timely manner.
Usually, the timing chain (there are two of them) will not disturb the driver until the run is about 250 thousand, but then replacing the chains is simply necessary.
The Nissan ga16de engine has its own identifying number, which can be seen on the engine itself from the side where the radiator is located.
As noted, the ga16de models feature larger bore sizes as well as the use of new types of pistons.But these are not all the advantages of the units, which maximize the period of operation, as well as reliability.
Many motorists, as well as those who are going to purchase a car with a ga16de engine, are interested in the maintainability of the product, because not only comfort, but also the economic side of the issue depends on this. Judging by the reviews, we can say that in the Nissan Almera (previous years of production) there were problems with contamination of the air flow sensor (dmrv). Similar problematic situations have arisen with contamination of the regulator that controls idle. Repair of this nature is simple, you can rinse the elements yourself.
The throttle valve is also subject to contamination. In situations where the camera is very dirty, the unit can automatically go into emergency mode, as a result of which the car does not start and does not move.
If you operate the vehicle for a long time and "give" it high loads, such a moment can overheat the engine, resulting in damage to the cylinder head.
If such phenomena have been noticed, you must immediately contact the specialists, since you will not be able to eliminate them with your own hands.
VIDEO
There are several reasons why oil consumption increases:
The gas evacuation valve is out of order
Piston rings worn
The valve stem seals are out of order
When using low-quality oil or long intervals between its replacements, a significant decrease in the total engine mileage is possible. In this case, the owner of the vehicle may not be saved by the overhaul, because if necessary, the piston group will need to be changed. This is not to say that the Nissan ga16de is an oil burner, but if used improperly, oil consumption can really increase, which will lead to serious consequences for the car.
For long-term operation of the Nissan ga16de engine, it is important to follow a number of simple rules that are necessary for the engine to work not only appropriate, but also safe.
Gasoline that is used must have an octane of at least AI - 92
Change the oil not after 15,000, but after 10,000
Use quality oil from the classes indicated in the instructions
When replacing fuses, consumable fluids, filters, and spark plugs, use elements only with those characteristics that fully correspond to the parameters of the engine
Carry out a technical inspection of the vehicle, regularly contact the masters for a preventive car inspection
Make sure that the crankshaft position sensor shows
Nissan ga16de is designed for measured driving in one mode or another, therefore, subject to the general rules of operation, the engine will serve for a long time and correctly.
ICE reliability
Fuel requirements are moderate
Profitability
Supports tuning (from light, to replacing all injectors, as well as installing a special turbine)
Environmental friendliness
But, oddly enough, the ga16de internal combustion engine also has negative sides:
The design of the fuel pump is modular (includes a filter, dumpers, level). If at least one element fails, the entire assembly must be replaced.
Hydraulic lifters are not installed, which entails the need to adjust the valves from time to time
High price of oil pump, chains
Such disadvantages cannot be considered serious, but they do exist.
There are many companies that can test the distributor as well as the generator. Experienced craftsmen analyze as well as check the starter. There is not always experience, as well as the ability to check the engine with your own hands, so it is important to contact experienced craftsmen who can professionally replace or repair such units:
Piston rings
Shims
Idle sensor (requires regular cleaning)
Oil seals, camshaft, crankshaft
Mkpp (body)
Distributor oil seal
Injectors
Other
It is very important to check the breather, with which the pressure is equalized.
In order to use oil with the recommended viscosity, it is worth using the following fluid options:
The volume is 3.2 liters, and it is recommended to change the oil earlier than after 15,000 runs.
The contract engine is installed very conveniently - transversely in the front of the body, so changing the oil will not cause any inconvenience.
The engine does not differ in particular difficulties, therefore, problems of a minor nature can be solved independently, taking into account certain subtleties:
If the installation or replacement of a part requires its displacement, it is worth setting marks to return the element to its place
When installing the block head, the tightening torque plays an important role - it is 4.4 - 5.6 kgf
It is better to regulate the ignition by marks, as well as using a stroboscope (preferably in a service center)
You can change the bearing both at the service and on your own, but first you will get acquainted with the step-by-step replacement process. The swap must be done according to the rules.
You can check and adjust the clutch by pulling the clutch cable
In the absence of skills, you should not carry out repairs on your own, because even with the smallest actions, you can harm the car.
In one case or another, if you need to replace a kit or a separate part in a car, you can always find photos on the Internet pages that describe all the stages of the process.
Nissan Almera (from 1995 - 2000)
Nissan Lucino (1994 to 1999)
Nissan NX-Coupe (1999 to 2000)
Nissan Primera (P10 from 1990 to 1996; P11 from 1995 to 2002)
Nissan Pulsar (# 13 - from 1986 - 1990; # 14 from 1990-1995; # 15 from 1995 - 2000)
Nissan Serena (from 1995 - 1999)
Nissan Sunny (B13 from 1990 to 1993; B12 from 1985 to 1990; B14 from 1993 to 1998)
Nissan Vanette Serena (from 1996 - 2000)
Each car model, in a certain year of production, was distinguished by good performance indicators, unpretentiousness. Depending on the power of the vehicle, the engine performed its functions 100 percent, as a result of which it confirmed the expectations of car owners and motorists.
The motor is durable, has no "chronic diseases", except for problem situations of a periodic nature. When using good fuel, as well as oil, with regular maintenance, you can most confidently eliminate all risks from possible problems that happen with such units.
68 Place a new head gasket on the cylinder block and install the head.
69 Lubricate the threads and the underside of the cylinder head bolt heads with a thin layer of engine oil and let it drain.
70 Screw in the cylinder head bolts by hand until their heads are in contact, and then tighten them in several passes, in ascending bolt sequence (see illustration).
1- th passage. Tighten bolts 1-10 to 29 Im.
2- th passage. Tighten bolts 1-10 to 59 Nm.
3- th passage. Loosen bolts 1-10 completely.
4- th passage. Tighten bolts 1 - 10 with a torque of 29 Nm.
5- th passage. Tighten bolts 1-10 50-55. If it is not possible to perform such a turn due to the absence of an angle template, then tighten the bolts with a torque of 59 ± 4.9 Nm.
6- th passage. Tighten bolts 11-15 to 6.3-8.3 Nm.
Attention! The cylinder head bolts are fitted with washers.Place these washers over the bolts before screwing in the bolts.
6.70 Screw in the cylinder head bolts by hand until their heads are in contact, and then tighten them in several passes, in ascending bolt sequence. Gasoline engine GA16DE
71 Position the camshafts observing their installation position (see illustration).
6.71 Installation position of camshafts
A - intake camshaft
B - exhaust camshaft
Attention! The exhaust camshaft differs from the intake camshaft by the presence of a groove at the rear end, which is designed to secure the ignition distributor shaft (see illustration 6.71).
72 Install the camshaft bearing caps, referring to the marks made before removal and embossed on the caps designations (see illustration).
6.72 Install the camshaft bearing caps, guided by the marks and made before removal and embossed on the caps
3 - intake camshaft covers
4 - exhaust camshaft covers
6 - an ignition distributor bracket
73 Apply sealant to the sealing surfaces of the ignition distributor bracket 1 and also install it on the mounting place (see illustrations 6.73 and 6.72).
6.73 Apply sealant to the sealing surfaces of the ignition distributor bracket 1 and also install it on the mounting place
74 Lubricate the threads and the underside of the heads of the camshaft bearing caps and the ignition distributor bracket with clean engine oil and let it drain.
75 Screw in the bearing cap bolts by hand until their heads are in contact, and then tighten the bolts in several passes, proceeding in the following sequence:
1st pass. Tighten bolts 11 - 15 with a torque of 2 Nm;
2nd pass. Tighten bolts 1-10 with a torque of 2 Nm;
3rd pass. Tighten bolts 11 - 15 with a torque of 5.9 Nm;
4th pass. Tighten bolts 1-14 to 9.8-11.8 Nm;
5th pass. Tighten bolt 15 with a torque of 6.3-8.3 Nm (see illustration).
6.75 Tighten the bearing cap bolts in several passes
76 Install, if removed, the sprocket of the lower chain on the intermediate shaft and lay chain 1 on it, aligning the painted link with the notch (see illustration).
6.76 Install the sprocket of the lower chain on the intermediate shaft and lay target 1 on it, aligning the painted link with the notch
77 Install a sprocket 3 of a smaller diameter onto the intermediate shaft, slide the upper chain 2 onto it, also aligning the selected link with the notch (see illustration 6.76).
78 Place the upper chain on both camshaft sprockets, aligning the marked links with the notches (see illustration 6.76), install the sprockets together with the chain on the camshafts and fasten with bolts.
79 Reinstall the upper chain tensioner. Before installing the tensioner, press its plunger into the body and secure it with a pin of a suitable diameter, inserting it into the hole on the tensioner body (see illustration 3.41). After installing the tensioner, remove the thrust pin so that the plunger comes out of the body and tightens the chain.
80 Install the lower chain tensioner, securing its new gasket so that the notch aligns with the lubrication hole on the tensioner (see illustration 3.42).
Attention! After installing the lower chain tensioner, make sure that the engine turns freely and that the movement of the chains is not accompanied by noise,
81 After checking the engine stroke, set the # 1 piston to TDC.
82 Reinstall thermostat housing by applying 2.0-3.0 mm thick sealant to its sealing surfaces (see illustration).
6.82 Reinstall the thermostat housing by applying 2.0-3.0 mm thick sealant to its sealing surfaces.
83 Install the ignition distributor by aligning tab 2 on its shaft with groove 1 on the exhaust camshaft (see illustration).
Attention! Groove 7 on the end of the camshaft must be horizontal when installing the distributor (see illustration 6.83).
6.83 Install the ignition distributor by aligning the tab 2 on its shaft with the groove 1 on the exhaust camshaft
84 Install the upper part of the timing protection cover onto the cylinder head, applying sealant to its sealing surfaces, and then screw and tighten the cover bolts in the numbering sequence (see illustration).
6.84 Install on the cylinder head the upper part of the protective cover of the timing gear, applying sealant to its sealing surfaces "and then screw in and tighten the cover bolts
85 Apply sealant to the cover and to the recesses of the cylinder head and install the cover (see illustration).
6.85 Apply sealant to the cover and to the recesses of the cylinder head and install the cover
86 Install the cylinder head cover bolts and tighten them to the specified torque, in ascending order of bolt numbers (see illustration).
6.86 Screw in the cylinder head cover retaining bolts and tighten them in ascending order of bolt numbers
87 Reconnect all other components in the reverse order of removal.
- Installing the cylinder head ... Installing the cylinder head. • Tighten the bolts in the order shown in the figure. The tightening procedure is described below. 1. Apply engine oil ... - Secondary timing chain. Checking ... Checking Check the chain link rollers for chips or signs of wear. Replace the chain if necessary. Installation 1. Install the secondary circuit ... - Installation of the fuel pump ... • There is no need to adjust the moment of fuel injection by changing the pump installation angle, as is done on conventional high pressure fuel pumps. The position of the pump is simple ... - Installing the camshafts 1. Install the valve lifters and shims. • Refit each part in its original place. • Install the shims with the mark facing down ... - The primary timing chain. Checking ... Checking Check the chain link rollers for chips and signs of wear. Replace the chain if necessary. Installation 1. Install the rear chain cover, ...
The GA16DE engine is a new powertrain that replaced the QG series in 1987. Structurally, the motor is quite simple, which is typical for power units of the late 80s.
The GA16DE motor replaces the well-known QG15DE. In essence, they are the same as the GA15DE sibling. The difference is in the technical specifications. This is a 1.6-liter power unit manufactured by Nissan.
Nissan Almera with GA16DE engine
Users love the simple design. The cylinder block is made of cast iron, covered with an aluminum head with one camshaft. Unlike the rest of the motors in the series, this power unit was equipped with twelve valves (8 - inlet and 4 - outlet).
The first engines were produced with a carburetor, but later multi-point injection was installed. In 1990, the power unit was equipped with a 16-valve head with two camshafts. This increased the power to 110 hp. The release of the engine continued until 2011.
Consider the main technical characteristics of the GA16DE engine:
123/3200 133/3200 150/4000 146/4000 150/4000 146/4000
Nissan almera Nissan primera Nissan NX1600 / 100NX Nissan Pulsar / Saber Nissan Sentra / Tsuru Nissan avenir Nissan exalta Nissan presea Nissan sunny Nissan Wingroad / Tsubame
Maintenance of the GA16DE power unit is quite simple, and is typical for engines produced in the 80s. It can be said that it is typical and almost does not show anything from the very "Zhiguli".
To service the power unit with your own hands, you will need to change the oil and oil filter. This requires a lift, pit or overpass. After the car is installed, it must be allowed to cool down.
GA16DE powertrain service process
We proceed directly to the process of changing the lubricant. To do this, it is necessary to dismantle the protection, if any. Then we put a container for used oil, and unscrew the drain plug. When the engine oil has come to an end, you can change the filter. Unscrewing is done using a special puller, but it is necessary to tighten it by hand so as not to overtighten or break the thread.
After tightening the drain plug through the filler hole, fill in new oil. To fill the engine, you will need 3.0 liters of new fluid. Recommended lubricants with markings are 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30 and 10W-40.
When the oil is filled, you can tighten the filler neck and start the car so that the oil flows through all the holes. It is recommended to drive 5-7 km so that the grease gets everywhere, and then add oil, if necessary, to the level.
The GA series motors are extremely reliable and durable, they do not have any common diseases, with the exception of periodic problems with KXX and DMRV. The resource of the engine without overhaul is 300 thousand km or more (depending on the operation).
Using good oil, gasoline and monitoring the condition of your GA16, you can protect yourself as much as possible from possible problems. It should also be understood that cars with this engine are old enough to travel 300-400-500 thousand km and, having bought such a car, you are unlikely to be able to enjoy trouble-free operation.
The GA16DE engine is a simple and reliable power unit. It is quite simple to service and repair the engine with your own hands, since the design is simple. Those who repaired the "Zhigul" will quickly figure out the problems that have arisen and eliminate them.
VIDEO
There are some questions about the GA16i 12V. I decided to start repairing the engine. I bought 12 new wetsuits on existential. Now I want to try to make the engine with my own hands.
1) If the compression in all cylinders is different - change the rings? Is this a capital? 2) If you take off your head - what parts will you need to buy? (valves, caps, etc.)? 3) How to measure (find out) if there is a barrel in the cylinders? Do I need to bore? What rings to take? 4) I do not have my own engine with power steering, but a steering column without power steering. Should I take it off? Need a different belt and pulley?
If there is a manual or a similar topic, please share. Since in a week or two I am ripe for repairs, and I would like to arm myself with theory.
Thank you who responded to my questions.
So, starting tomorrow, I start disassembling the engine. Today I was at the service station. The craftsmen looked, listened, removed the valve cover. They said that you need to open your head and make a diagnosis. Previously, they told me that the knocks are due to the pistons and valves. Apparently there is a gap in the cylinders and the pistons are playing. That is, replacement of pistons, rings, cylinder bore, head grinding, seats, valve grinding. This is still the beginning. The cost I was told for work 6000 UAH + spare parts + delivery time of spare parts (about 7-14 days).
Waving his shoulders
, conceived to do it on his own, and with the help of his father (he had experience with BMW engines). Having watched the video and photo reports on the bulkheads of similar engines, I gave myself confidence in the commission of my act.
So, today I'm taking the car to the garage. Starting tomorrow, I start dismantling the head. And also in parallel I will look for firms that grind and bore heads and cylinders.
I hope for your help in advice, as two, three, etc. heads are power. I'm just afraid to make mistakes.
Of course I will post photo reports every evening.
I understand that repairing the GA16I 12V engine is the first one to do. As on the Internet, no one has yet exhibited (at least not found) reports on the repair of just such an engine.
Of course, I will purchase spare parts as needed. From what is already there: - hydraulic compensators; - head gasket.
———- Post added at 17:35 ———- Previous post posted at 17:32 ———-
And, by the way, the compression was measured today 8/8 / 8.5 / 7
This is my first day of repairing the engine. The day was sunny and warm today. The mood is excellent for the time being. ) So.I disassembled the entire engine, tomorrow I will finish removing the block. And take the block and head for repair on Monday.
For more details: Now I will describe what happened and how it was, and then a photo.
After removing the head - I saw carbon deposits on the pistons, and like in the oil inlet and outlet valves are dry. When I shake the piston in different directions, clicks are heard, that is, the piston beats against the cylinder wall. Here is the video itself:
VIDEO
Who will say what about this?
———- Post added at 17:35 ———- Previous post posted at 17:18 ———-
So: He took off the mono-injector. All vacuum tubes, wires. Leaked antifreeze, oil. He took off the exhaust manifold. But there is one "but" here. the nuts were chewed. The gasket is not even squeezed out. I twisted it with my fingers. Apparently the master in the village, forgot to tighten the graduation
. Then he removed the camshaft sprocket. Shaft with rockers (hydraulic compensators) Disconnected all coolant hoses from the bottom of the intake manifold. When unscrewing the small head bolts - the bolt that goes to the front cover of the block - tore off. - but it's not scary - I'll twist it. He took off his head. Here it starts here. The valves, as I said, are wet in oil (intake). There is carbon deposits on the pistons, and there is a noticeable beating play along the cylinder wall. Then he removed the pallet cover. He unscrewed the rods. As will be seen in the photo, they seemed to be rubbing. From the first cylinder - the upper liner just fell off. From the second too. When I removed the pistons, all rings are not coked. Clean. Since there was no internal gauge. I measured it in the cylinders with chips, inserting a number into each cylinder and in 4 places measured the gap of the ring lock. Here's what happened 1- cylinder 0.45 / 0.40 / 0.40 / 0.40 2- cylinder 0.50 / 0.40 / 0.40 / 0.40 3rd cylinder 0.55 / 0.40 / 0.40 / 0.40 4th cylinder 0.55 / 0.45 / 0.40 / 0.40
———- Post added at 17:39 ———- Previous post posted at 17:35 ———-
Now what I think: Head: Grind the valve (replace the valve guides as necessary). Grind the head as needed. Check the camshaft for runout.
Block: bore cylinders to first oversize. Buy the first repair pistons and rings. Check the crankshaft for runout.
I would be glad to advice. Maybe I missed something.
———- Post added at 17:53 ———- Previous post posted at 17:39 ———-
For such a time it's time to knock a thread. Better in his capital, or oil is thicker in the MARKET.
Maybe a finger under the clutch and nips when transferring? I didn’t pay attention when I changed rings. How does the piston rotate on a finger without wedging?
kind of like on top. I shot a video first - morning start the second - 2 minutes after starting with gas filling the third - 6 minutes after starting
Damn, I drove another 10-12 thousand, as it knocked and knocking. I just noticed that it knocks louder on HBO. And even on gasoline, when the 4th nozzle is turned off, it also becomes louder
In short, soon my nerves will probably not stand it, I will order repair pistons, sort out the cylinder head and sharpen the shaft
nope, not easier
GA16 was for the European market, and for the Japanese GA15. A correspondingly cheap and good motor cannot be bought in Europe. And in order to deliver GA15 from Japan, it is necessary to take automatic transmission, CV joints and brains to the motor. Easier to make your own
Damn, I drove another 10-12 thousand, as it knocked and knocking. I just noticed it knocks louder on HBO. And even on gasoline, when the 4th nozzle is turned off, it also becomes louder
This fact shows that the reason for the knocking is in the 4th cylinder and most likely in the broken groove under the upper piston ring, which is a concomitant disease when switching to HBO.
Damn, I drove another 10-12 thousand, as it knocked and knocking. I just noticed it knocks louder on HBO. And even on gasoline, when the 4th nozzle is turned off, it also becomes louder
This fact shows that the reason for the knocking is in the 4th cylinder and most likely in the broken groove under the upper piston ring, which is a concomitant disease when switching to HBO.
Come on, HBO was installed only 5000-7000 km ago, and knocks from the moment the rings were replaced, i.e. about 30,000 km those.initially HBO could not affect the cause of the knock in any way
Damn, I drove another 10-12 thousand, as it knocked and knocking. I just noticed it knocks louder on HBO. And even on gasoline, when the 4th nozzle is turned off, it also becomes louder
This fact shows that the reason for the knocking is in the 4th cylinder and most likely in the broken groove under the upper piston ring, which is a concomitant disease when switching to HBO.
Come on, HBO was installed only 5000-7000 km ago, and knocks from the moment the rings were replaced, i.e. about 30,000 km those. initially HBO could not affect the cause of the knock in any way
LPG increased the wear in the entom unit and, of course, revealed the problem and it became much clearer.
ps about what he wrote: which is a concomitant disease when switching to HBO , means that HBO affects the entot node and even if there is NO problem, then it will definitely WILL, and if it was there or IS, it will definitely INCREASE.
Group: NISMO-CLUB Posts: 79 Registration: 4.2.2011 User #: 20216 Car: Ford Focus, I choose the second
In general, I also encountered the Nissan, and in particular with the Nissan Pulsar FNN15, which has a GA15DE on board. I got the car in a very poor condition, but its price justified the investment (in my opinion). The car was purchased, a complete troubleshooting of the car and engine diagnostics, in particular, was carried out, which showed that the motor needs repair or replacement. T.K. there is a production base where you can safely engage in repairs, spare parts for the engine cost reasonable money and are quite affordable, then the first scenario was chosen.
Now the essence of the topic - after deciding on the capital, I looked for similar topics on the forum and was surprised that there was not a single topic where the repair of this motor was fully covered. And I decided to fill this gap on my own. According to the first estimates, the budget should be 8-12 thousand for spare parts + machine tools, work on the engine, on disassembly and assembly, troubleshooting - free of charge. will be done independently.
In this thread, I will try to reflect in detail all aspects of the repair, at the same time draw up a detailed estimate for the necessary spare parts, well, and highlight the nuances that may seem important and interesting to me. In terms of tuning, I understand that this is not the engine from which miracles should be expected, but after the repair I do not exclude that there will be a little tuning (most likely I will limit myself to a more productive release).
To begin with, the results of troubleshooting are compression 12-11-13-12, in the 3 and 4 cylinders there are traces of oil combustion on the candles, the nozzles of the 2 and 4 cylinders are leaking, which complicates the engine start after a long stay. Plus a lot of leaks through oil seals and gaskets. When starting the oil can on the dashboard, it goes out after 3-4 seconds of the starter operation, which brings up thoughts about the serviceability of the oil pump and the condition of the crankshaft bearings. The motor does not knock, drives, smokes blue smoke when accelerating. In general, a typical motor requiring overhaul.
I plan to start disassembling in 2-3 days, when a replacement car appears and the pulsar can be put for repair.
What time can the capital of the engine come out now?
The campaign begins to eat up oil, and the year 91st, I think it's time to save money for repairs.
It depends on what time the capital can get out =)
In principle, the car is in good condition, after all, the service life strongly depends on how you care 😉
I mean this Speaking to the deputies of the State Duma of the Russian Federation, Deputy Minister of the Ministry of Industry and Trade Stanislav Naumov said that his department is considering the possibility of banning the operation of cars over 25 years old, starting in 2012. The lifespan of trucks is planned to be reduced to 20 years, and of buses to 15 years.
To achieve the set goals, the ministry plans to make appropriate amendments to the law "On road safety".These and some other measures should stimulate the development of the domestic auto industry in the long term.
For such a time it's time to knock a thread. Better in his capital, or oil is thicker in the MARKET.
Maybe a finger under the clutch and nips when transferring? I didn’t pay attention when I changed rings. How does the piston rotate on a finger without wedging?
kind of like on top. I shot a video first - morning start the second - 2 minutes after starting with gas filling the third - 6 minutes after starting
Damn, I drove another 10-12 thousand, as it knocked and knocking. I just noticed it knocks louder on HBO. And even on gasoline, when the 4th nozzle is turned off, it also becomes louder
In short, soon my nerves will probably not stand it, I will order repair pistons, sort out the cylinder head and sharpen the shaft
nope, not easier
GA16 was for the European market, and for the Japanese GA15. A correspondingly cheap and good motor cannot be bought in Europe. And in order to deliver GA15 from Japan, it is necessary to take automatic transmission, CV joints and brains to the motor. Easier to make your own
Damn, I drove another 10-12 thousand, as it knocked and knocking. I just noticed it knocks louder on HBO. And even on gasoline, when the 4th nozzle is turned off, it also becomes louder
This fact shows that the reason for the knocking is in the 4th cylinder and most likely in the broken groove under the upper piston ring, which is a concomitant disease when switching to HBO.
Damn, I drove another 10-12 thousand, as it knocked and knocking. I just noticed it knocks louder on HBO. And even on gasoline, when the 4th nozzle is turned off, it also becomes louder
This fact shows that the reason for the knocking is in the 4th cylinder and most likely in the broken groove under the upper piston ring, which is a concomitant disease when switching to HBO.
Come on, HBO was installed only 5000-7000 km ago, and knocks from the moment the rings were replaced, i.e. about 30,000 km those. initially HBO could not affect the cause of the knock in any way
Damn, I drove another 10-12 thousand, as it knocked and knocking. I just noticed it knocks louder on HBO. And even on gasoline, when the 4th nozzle is turned off, it also becomes louder
This fact shows that the reason for the knocking is in the 4th cylinder and most likely in the broken groove under the upper piston ring, which is a concomitant disease when switching to HBO.
Come on, HBO was installed only 5000-7000 km ago, and knocks from the moment the rings were replaced, i.e. about 30,000 km those. initially HBO could not affect the cause of the knock in any way
LPG increased the wear in the entom unit and, of course, revealed the problem and it became much clearer.
Video (click to play).
ps about what he wrote: which is a concomitant disease when switching to HBO , means that HBO affects the entot node and even if there is NO problem, then it will definitely WILL, and if it was there or IS, it will definitely INCREASE.