Restoration of the car GAZ-21 "Volga": photos of step-by-step works.
The GAZ-21 car was produced at the Gorky Automobile Plant from 956 to 1970; in total, more than half a million GAZ-21 cars were produced in several modifications.
In the 60s, it was the most popular car in the Soviet Union, in 1961, after the price denomination, GAZ-21 cost 5600 Soviet rubles, by 1970 it had risen in price to 9000 rubles.
In this article, we will just look at the process of restoring the legendary 21st Volga.
The result of the author's work, it took a year and a half to restore the GAZ-21 car.
Many Volga GAZ-21 models are no longer in the best condition, but it's a pity to write off such a car for scrap. And by the way, practically no one hands over the "twenty-first" according to the recycling program, everyone is trying to restore the car. But for the restoration of such rarities, they undertake mainly only in specialized services, and the prices there are very rather big.
Of course, no matter how strong the body is, it does not get better from time to time. Thresholds, wheel arches and the underside of the car have always been and will be problem areas. And if the body has succumbed to corrosion in several places at once, then in order to carry out a major overhaul of the body, the car will need to be completely disassembled. For this:
Having disassembled the entire car, it is necessary to inspect the body for defects and rust. Then:
It is not bad for the body to carry out anti-corrosion treatment (bottom bottom, wheel arches), as well as to make noise insulation.
Repair of the GAZ-21 interior begins with the seats. As a rule, their condition in the "Volga" leaves much to be desired. To preserve the native seats, they will have to be restored. Usually, in sofas (front and back), all the filling is changed and the seats are sheathed with new material. Foam rubber is usually used as a filling. On the frames, it is necessary to replace broken springs, clean the iron from rust, paint the frame. To carry out the work, the sofas will need to be removed.
The front seat of the GAZ-21 is solid, and it is one piece for the driver and passenger.
Such a sofa is somewhat easier to pull over than the front seats of modern cars - it has a simple shape without any tricky bends. The rear seat is not much different from the front in shape.
The owners of the 21st are aware that the stove in the passenger compartment of the car has a low performance. It's all about the heater radiator. The coolant pipes (inlet and outlet) are on one side (on the left tank).According to the conceived scheme, the coolant (or water) must completely fill the cavity of the radiator, passing through the tubes inside the system. But due to factory defects, water, barely getting into the radiator of the stove, immediately flows out. As a result, the water in the radiator does not circulate and does not warm up the interior.
The coolant now flows through the entire heater radiator and heats the air in the vehicle interior.
Often, to achieve a higher temperature in the cabin, an additional stove motor is often installed. The motor improves the circulation of fluid in the heating system - the air in the cabin warms up faster, and the temperature becomes higher. Also, craftsmen "introduce" an additional stove in the cabin from the VAZ 2106 car.
Most often, repairs on the Volga GAZ 21 are required for the engine, transmission and chassis. "Native" motors already have a considerable mileage, so the owners replace the power unit with another, more often from another model.
GAZ 21 was discontinued in 1970, and sometimes there is a "tension" with spare parts. But here the details come to the rescue, which are unified with the Volgovskiye.
Let's say you need to overhaul the ZMZ 21 engine. How can you replace the "native" parts? Here is some information you can take on board:
VIDEO
If the resource of the "native" internal combustion engine is exhausted, you can install an engine from another car model on the GAZ 21.
With minimal alterations, ZMZ 402 or UMP 417 are suitable, but such a rearrangement is not justified - the motors are also morally outdated and will practically not add power to the car.
It will be more interesting to consider the models ZMZ 406, ZMZ 405, UMZ 421. Least of all modifications will have to be done when installing the carburetor version of UMZ 421 - the internal combustion engine is best suited for the mountings.
Overview of the process of installing another engine on the Volga 21
The car stood in the garage for a long time, and it took 13 months to fully restore it. Now all this is in the past, and the car looks even better than the day it left the walls of the Gorky Automobile Plant.
At the time of purchase, the car was absolutely inoperable. Cracked block head, box removed. Almost nothing worked under the hood. And of course neither the brakes nor the clutch worked either. He wanted to restore it in due time, changed the wings, digested the thresholds and disassembled the muzzle a little, but something did not work out and so he abandoned it.
The machine turned out to be strong. There is no rust outside. Bottom slightly rusty bottom. Bumpers in very good condition. Well, in fact, it took almost a month to start and leave the garage. And after that, for almost a year and a half, the machine was being restored almost daily. During this time, she was moved to the last nut.
Immediately after the purchase of the car, they began to restore it. Almost everything on the machine went out of order after 10 years of inactivity. To start it, the following were replaced: candles and wires, a generator, a starter, a relay-regulator, both oil filters, a pump. In addition, the carburetor and GTZ were moved. Neither the brakes nor the clutch worked either. We also sorted out the head and ground the valves.
After the car began to move independently, we started to restore it. Unfortunately, in the summer of 2008, there was no electricity in the garage for a month and a half, which slowed down the process a little. During this time (in the light of a torch), all steel pipes were changed to copper ones, and all the brake cylinders and clutch were sorted out.
Well, actually, when the electricity appeared, they began to cook. 90 percent of all welding work on the body was occupied by the replacement of both thresholds, which were once upon a time very poorly and crookedly digested with gas. And although the thresholds were completely new, they had to be removed and others welded.
Gas tank restoration. It was cleaned of dirt and rust, treated with a converter, painted with primer, black acrylic and treated with anti-gravel.
As a result of all these manipulations, he became almost like new.
The engine, which had worked very badly before, finally shut down.
Therefore, the engine was removed, the engine compartment was disassembled and the entire car was finally disassembled. At the same time, they began to sort out the engine and prepare the body for painting.
Completed body painting (in two colors) and engine compartment. Settled before bad weather
They started the engine. More than 4 months have passed since the last plant (September 19). The engine started up cheerfully, there were no troubles.
Final assembly and first exit photos.
It's always nice to watch when old people are given a second life.
And these oldies have cool sofas. convenient for romance.
Yes, there is so much space in them that you can triple the disco.
Triple disco - under a triple cologne. Alain Delon is not admitted.
Fuh, I thought I couldn't speak French.
And I am pleased to see that not all auto makers are like me.
We are also restoring. There are two cars. We drive one. We do another. But expensive pleasure is contagion.
Recovery is generally not a cheap process.
I have restored a BMW E39 practically from a bare body - almost two years and a lot of money. There are still some minor flaws in the form of jambs on paintwork, and even some little things.
In the form of jambs on paintwork
Without undue modesty - absolutely everything.
Starting from the rear cam levers and ending with replacing the engine with a more powerful and reliable one.
Well, I was stupid.
As twice E39-waters, I express all sorts of respect) Can you tell us more about the upgrade? And the body was also cooked? And then I have a couple of questions)
If anything, there is all this construction on camera.
Some of the things are also taken after filming.
I have the first Volga with a star for restoration, if you are interested, write =)
Moscow region Protvino
How can I contact you?
hmm, I would not want to write personal data.
after the VK site write “/ Leron665” (Leonid Alekseev)
If they played a wedding somewhere in the southern regions (Krasnodar, Sochi, Crimea), it is quite possible that you would be able to collect a whole motorcade, and you yourself would go to Victory. When I was small, my neighbor, an elderly man, had Pobeda, and he drove it every weekend, when we moved from there, I lost contact with this car. However, when he was learning to drive on the road to the Alsou camp, the whole street was lined twenty-first in his native blue and beige paint. Victories leave their garages on May 9 very often and through the owners you can go to the club of retro / vintage cars of your city and district (it often happens that the heirs keep the horses of the deceased grandfathers in proper condition in the garage in the village and in the city or on the highway you will not see them). The scene I described is the city of Sevastopol and its surroundings
Last fall, a perfectly working and streamlined engine started converting butter into coffee with milk. replacing the cylinder head gasket did not work, so the car left for the winter unrepaired. Arriving in May, as usual with a half-kick started the car, drove out - again the emulsion: ((
this time he took the head to the grinder. he, having rolled it on a pebble, said that the skew was as much as 0.36 mm%) in May it was a curve, but as it turned out later, the problem was not even that. flowed directly into the crankcase from the block.
Until recently, I did not want to overhaul the engine, but I had to%) 20k, prepared for bodywork as it was gone%) after disassembling the engine, I was horrified - with all the perfect work and sufficient cleanliness inside (I skated 3 km on good oil),the block was killed by corrosion (aluminum rotted .. thanks to some water) and, most importantly, it burst in as many as three places! the beds of the indigenous necks were cracked, as well as everything above him. the cracks, as you could see, were all long-standing. how did you go? ZMZ drives! %)
- ZMZ-21 block, spare, universal
- piston 92.0mm new, motor part
- inserts round the GAZ-24 steel-aluminum (0.75)
- new camshaft UMZ-417, with bushings
- generator 65A UAZ, old-new%)
- distributor R-119B old, contact
despite the fact that during the assembly I repeatedly turned the tightened crankshaft and connecting rods, for running-in; there was already a tight engine on the car. because of the stuffing) for some reason we were not able to spin the car in tow, imagine - I was being dragged by the UAZ in the literal sense of the drag! the car throws in different directions, and the engine costs itself and that's it. and then calmly scrolled with a starter%) some kind of mysticism, or thanks to the bridge without a self-block? 😀
for a whole month after that, I could not get the car to start and work normally! at first, it turned out that the ignition was wrong - turned it over with the shaft by 180, it became correct. but at that very moment, I managed to buy a new R-119B distributor for a whole mower%) on it the car went through a hot run-in, worked for 3 hours at different idle modes. but when I went it was all over. you step on the gas, the engine chokes. these symptoms tore me mosk 2 or 3 weeks, and all this time I went through fucking carburetors. % even began to understand them)
in the end, it was all the fault of the fucking distributor, NEW fucking distributor! 11!
as soon as I put the old one, I forgot about the problems.
since then 2 thousand km have passed.
- do it for ages, but be ready to remove the engine once again
- have a good gas wrench
- DO NOT SPREAD TOOLS! %)))))))))
- if the ZMZ engine asked him to take it off, you can't manage with little blood
- earn the engine in the course of the assembly, scrolling by hand
- when assembling the pallet - LAY SEALANT IN ALL GORPS, without exception!
- if you are going to the garage in a bad mood, it is better to sit there and not work. it will affect!
- if the car does not start, the ignition is 90% to blame, the carburetor and the fuel pump are to blame for 10%! DO NOT TRUST NEW SPARE PARTS!
- don't be cool - don't hesitate to go for advice at the right moment
from the experience of the bulkhead, I can say - there is nothing impossible in the repair of the GAZ-21 engine, as you can see - I bought everything at the nearest UAZ store. the budget for the construction of an actually new motor is in the region of 20 thousand, including spare parts! you can get by and cheaper, depending on your specific requirements, and the condition of the motor. All the work, except for turning, was carried out by my dad and I - humanities to the bone marrow, who know nothing about mechanics. all the knowledge necessary for the bulkhead - gave me the Internet%)))
I hope the post will help if someone wants to do the repair himself, but not sure about the possibilities - do not be afraid to start, if you have a desire - there is a result!
Old motor, standard ZMZ-21A - it is possible that it is native to this car
ready to be removed and placed on the table
once the ring burst and crumpled the combustion chamber. the valves are usually red, I traveled with a suction before taking off)
crankshaft - severe scratches, the result of water leakage into the crankcase. the iron rusts and scratches when the crankshaft is scrolled.
the piston was in good enough condition, only the connecting rod bushings were worn out. decided to change everything. the liners were 0.25 and did not wear out%))) apparently changed recently. left so
cracks in the block - you can see the corrosion that has been collected over the years along the crack. the engine whispered! and once punished forika%))))
New block, unnumbered spare part, made by UMP. VERY rough casting!
new bushings r / shaft, did very well, nothing jammed or dangled
crankshaft ground, third size
tightened the yoke at different moments, lubricated, alternately scrolled
assembly of pistons. correct positioning of jambs possible! %))))
crankshaft and camshaft assembled, new camshaft 🙂
the sleeves are seated in place.they are joined to the block from below through rubber rings, BE CAREFUL and attentive in installation - otherwise the coolant on the new engine will flow and you will have to remove it
Russian stud runner%))) these studs were new, there was not enough on the block, I bought it in addition. so EVERYTHING twisted while tightening! bought in three different stores! DO NOT BELIEVE NEW! %))) had to be removed from the old block tightly - but I am sure that they will not let you down
pushers - a mixture of old and donor, fit ideally
made a conclusion on the mechanical pressure gauge, I still don't believe in the electric one%))
after a bunch of unsuccessful attempts - got it! smoke with a rocker! %))) (as it should be)
the car worked for 3 hours at idle, at different speeds
and finally, probably two months later. after replacing the new distributor with the old one. first trip to the city!
immediately put in new wheels%)))
Music: Buddy Holly - That’ll be the day
Entrust car repairs to professionals!
Our address: Novosibirsk, st. Wide 2B
Car service "G-ENERGY" Novosibirsk at a high level produces all types of repair and maintenance of cars and commercial vehicles.
On the basis of the car service is the racing team "G-ENERGY", which took 1st place in the championship of Siberia and the Far East in 2015 in automobile circuit races. High awards at the all-Russian championships reflect the professionalism of the workers and pilots of the “G-ENERGY” team.
Video Overhaul of the engine Volga GAZ 21 channel Avtosport154 - A professional in his field
The car is for sale!
+79015438580 Dmitriy
Car before leaving from the seller.
Rear view of the car. The car is in its own color. Nobody ever took it apart. Good!
The car drove in for disassembly and troubleshooting.
The car was in very good condition. Not touched by alterations.
Inside, the ceiling and door edges have been removed. The front and rear seats have been removed.
Everything is ready for removing the front panel.
The doors were removed and disassembled from the car. Rear window and front fender removed.
Disassembled front end TV. The skirt is removed. The bumper is removed.
Removed the left front fender, stove, intake and exhaust manifolds, brake master cylinder.
The engine, gearbox, front suspension and rear axle were removed.
The shifters are bolted to the car. The car was in the garage for a long time.
The car is disassembled to a screw. Ready for sandblasting.
The left threshold is intact. The right one is slightly bent at the back. What will happen after sandblasting?
The vehicle is tilted at an angle of 45 degrees. It is convenient to sandblast the bottom and closed cavities.
Car body after sandblasting. All metal is covered with acidic soil.
Through centers of corrosion. To my delight, there are very few of them.
"Virgin" underbody of the car. Everything has been preserved as after the slipway at the factory.
The metal was "sharpened" by the Colorado potato beetle. Apparently they were carrying potatoes in the trunk.
Before sandblasting, I had to rip off all the bitumen mastic in the trunk. It's scary to remember.
The rear arches are in excellent condition. Everything is flooded with acidic soil.
Trunk bottom condition. Like new. I made gas in the 60s.
The doors were in surprisingly good condition.
Front fenders as good as new. After sandblasting.
The rear fenders are in good condition after sandblasting.
Hood and TV after cleaning. The sand has recaptured everything.
The body was transported for welding. Seryoga is already ready to work in a new place.
It's good when everything is on time. Then the work goes well.
Started disassembling, repairing and painting the interior. Seats before disassembly.
Door cards and door edges before disassembly. Dust gets in my nose and because of this I sneeze.
Now we figured it out ourselves.Be healthy.
The seats are disassembled. Ahead is the replacement of broken springs, tightening the staples, cleaning and painting.
Took all the parts after sandblasting. I’m counting. Now there is more than enough work.
Assembling the upper and lower front suspension arms.
Front suspension assembly, before installation on the vehicle.
The interior of the car and the openings have been prepared and painted.
Car after painting. Ready for front and rear suspension.
The gaps in the car were 5 mm. Better than factory ones. Accidentally! ! !
Hooray ! ! ! ! ! First exit of "Swallow".
The entire luggage compartment was painted over. The glare on the sidewalls of the car was obtained without distortion.
The car has undergone anti-corrosion treatment on the underbody, arches, thresholds.
Front suspension attached but not adjusted. It is necessary to load the entire car, and then adjust.
The entire underbody of the vehicle is treated with anti-corrosion primer and covered with STP vibroplast.
The entire luggage compartment is also processed and covered with vibroplast. There will be good soundproofing.
The rear arches are also glued with vibroplast STP. Condensation will not form between the car body and the carpet.
The swingarm and tie rods are disassembled, repaired, painted and small parts are galvanized. Ready to install.
The exhaust system is disassembled, sandblasted and painted with high temperature paint. Connection parts are galvanized. Ready to install.
The steering linkage is installed on the vehicle. All threaded connections are coated with Dinitrol 77 B conservative. Cool stuff.
A repaired steering column is installed on the car, the reservoir is washed and the platform for the battery.
Cardan drive before disassembly and troubleshooting.
Cardan drive after disassembly. Two crosses will have to be changed.
Hooray. For 100 USD found a new gas tank. Old as a sieve.
Details of the gas tank before installation.
Gearbox after repair and painting. All elements of the parking brake are prepared for installation.
The engine is installed in the engine compartment. The engine was overhauled and painted.
View of the installed engine from below. The clutch release bearing and clutch disc have been replaced. Flywheel and clutch basket in excellent condition after 58,000 km. mileage.
Installation of the gearbox. Fitting the exhaust system.
The connection of the gearbox and the rear axle by means of a cardan transmission.
Installation of internal sealing edges.
Installation of the ceiling in the car.
Fitting door sills. Will there be enough room for the door upholstery?
Hooray! The first start of the engine. It wound up the first time.
Rear seat and backrest manufactured and installed. Trying on the rear shelf.
The front seat is made and almost assembled. Gray edging, in my opinion, to the very point.
Front seat rear view. The ashtray is missing - it is in the painting.
I make and try on foot protection and door cards from non-combustible and non-hygroscopic material.
Prepared for installation (cleaning, galvanizing, lubrication) parts and door mechanisms.
I laid out and prepared for assembly and installation decorative elements of the Volga doors.
I bought and installed a new brake and fuel pipe. Collected and bleed all the brakes - ONE. Very convenient in the Volga with a pump.
Retained all exhaust system mountings in the original. Simple and reliable enough.
Installed the front seat in the salon. Coolly unfolds - you get a spacious 2-3-seater sofa, like in the movie * 3 + 2 *.
Brake and fuel pipes are factory-secured. The gas pump pumps like in an airplane.
Well, now the * muzzle * is already assembled completely. I tried to do everything symmetrically.
The taillights are in place. When assembling, I scratched the varnish on the car (my hand jumped off). Serega polished everything.
The rear booms and piercing were very difficult.
Petersburg trunk seal did not fit, I had to thin it by 2-3 mm. The hind bird is similar to a seagull - rear view of the bird. Just paint on the legs.
Assembling the chrome of the rear window - let whoever did it drink UZO vodka (150 grams) with me at once.
Well, here the numbers have already been hung. Time to say good-bye.
Put it all together. The rugs are a good match for the color of the car interior.
The doors were very hard. The seals were new and the glass did not want to ride in the velvet doors.
The front seat worked wonderfully well. You unfold it and lie looking at the ceiling.
When assembling, I fitted all the door sills well. Do not interfere with door cards when closed.
When doing camber - toe-in of the wheels, I removed and put the steering wheel with the signal rim several times.
In my opinion, it's good that the gray edging did. They highlight the dimensions of the seats. Front panel - leather color matched the color of the handles and steering wheel.
Well, here's another step of YOUR life passed. Photo for a long memory.
GOOD * gray neck *. Wheels give a chic to the car undoubtedly.
It's always a little sad these minutes. A piece of you remained in it.
Good rubber - oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo I didn’t buy - the OWNER.
Well, let’s fly to your native land. THERE please people and children. Bring joy to the owner.
Maybe when we'll meet. And now I am getting down to my SWALLOW BORN 1968. It will be difficult in a crisis.
The car is for sale!
+79015438580 Dmitriy
Hi all.
ATTENTION! I do all the work with my Volga myself. and what I am talking about here, I am not in any way claiming that it is necessary to do exactly this way and that way, I just offer my own version. and even if my version is wrong, God forbid you to think up and do better.
about my car:
First of all, I will say that, before scribbling here any information about the repair and work with Gas 21 - you need to ride at least some time on this machine, if possible, in order to understand what can be left in it as it is and what to modify.
about the engine.
installed electronic ignition, after a week of pokatushek capacity, it was decided to otkapitalit which was done. the oil filter was replaced with a Zhigulevsky one. especially while there is nothing more to tell, since it has not yet had time to go through the break-in was completely removed and placed in the corner of the garage while the body is being repaired.
since the fotik is not always at hand, here's a little bit about what's in the photo:
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frame 6
frame 1
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Comrades! The series of New Year holidays continues, but the soul asks for something light, kind, eternal - that is, I want to do something with my hands. There is no warm garage yet, so the thought arose to bring dvigun home and start sorting it out, the main thing is to convince relatives of this need
Having smoked the corresponding thematic forums (here, here and here) and asked Yandex with Google, I came to the following conclusions. The GAZ21A engine allows you to slightly change the power parameters by replacing the modified GB, intake / exhaust, carburetors, etc., namely:
here is an approximate list of engine alterations. Well, of course, overhaul: grinding the crankshaft, repair liners, piston, cylinder head capital, etc.
What are your views / objections / suggestions in this regard?
since sometimes this kind of alterations in terms of financial and labor costs overshadow the installation of a ready-made new 421st engine, which in the “base” is superior to the 21st engine in terms of parameters.
Any thing (as well as the 21st engine) has not only disadvantages but also advantages.
Good afternoon, the topic of today's article is the restoration of a gas 21 steering wheel with your own hands.
For owners of gas 21 and for fans of autoretro, it is known that plastic in those years was rather imperfect and capricious.
In fact, plastic of those years is a mixture of bone meal with epoxy - obviously, these are not modern polymers that take 300 years to decompose! Under the influence of microbes, the sun and atmospheric moisture, the steering wheel gas 21 cracks, blisters, changes color.
As a result, it will look something like this:
Cracks to cut yourself, unpleasant to the touch swelling and discoloration are evident!
straight arms 2 pieces (we will work with them)
bumper repair kit Novol with fiberglass 1-3 pieces (depending on the neglect of the steering wheel)
universal putty (for leveling irregularities)
tinting spatulas (for applying putty)
2-component primer 4 + 1 (for adhesion of paint and epoxy and insulation of layers)
brushes No. 1 2-3 pieces (for applying epoxy and primer)
sandpaper with numbers 80-180-360-500
solvent 646 MOZHHIM (1 liter for cleaning tools and diluting materials)
silicone remover (we will degrease it)
airbrush / spray gun with a compressor (we will paint / prime with this tool)
paint in color, a mixture of 50/50 235 and 040 colors (we will paint it)
- We wash off coarse dirt from the steering wheel with a silicone remover.
- degrease large cracks with a silicone remover and fill them with epoxy from a bumper repair kit:
If the steering wheel is in very poor condition, we form a base of epoxy mixed with glass cloth, but in this example there is no such damage.
With a high degree of probability, it will not work to remove all the cracks at once. It's okay if you can't remove all the cracks at once, it is permissible to repeat the procedure several times.
I warn you to use epoxy "from the factory" or from households. goods because it dries for a long time and every time with a dubious result ... ..
- degrease small cracks and sinks with a brush and silicone remover.
- use the same brush to spill small cracks and sinks with epoxy. but we slightly dilute the epoxy with 646 solvent, otherwise the resin will not get inside, and will remain on the surface as a drop.
- we dry the epoxy until it is completely dry and mat the steering wheel with sandpaper with number 80
- degrease the steering wheel with a silicone remover.
- apply epoxy with a brush to the entire surface of the steering wheel, this is necessary to reliably isolate the remains of the steering wheel from air and atmospheric moisture (this way it will last longer)
- after the epoxy has dried, mat the steering wheel with 80-180 sandpaper
- we bring small irregularities with the help of a universal putty, not forgetting to degrease before applying the putty.
- we grind the filler with 180-360 sandpaper and bring the steering wheel to its "final shape".
- degrease and prime. It can be primed either with a spray gun or with a brush. This particular steering wheel was primed with a brush.
- we wait until the soil dries up and we cover the soil with sandpaper sequentially numbered 360-500
- we paint with a spray gun or airbrush. It is rather problematic to buy ivory paint, more or less the color will be a mixture of paints 040 and 235 (but the ratio "by eye")
- we dry and enjoy the result:
The result of the restoration is the steering wheel installed on the car, but not yet assembled and glued:
Video (click to play).
That's all for today. Good luck restoring gas 21 rudders.
