Do-it-yourself Hyundai Getz engine repair

Repair of the Hyundai Getz 1.3 G4EA engine can be major, or it can be partial. The type of repair is determined only after diagnostics by a minder. Partial overhaul of the Hyundai Getz 1.3 G4EA engine may include replacing the GBK gasket, replacing valve stem seals, replacing valves. Partial repairs usually do not include removing the engine block, boring, grinding, liner, etc.

You should not decide to repair the Hyundai Getz 1.3 G4EA engine yourself. People often come to the service who say - “my neighbor told me that I need to change the cylinder head gasket and everything will go away”. Of course, we can listen to the client and go to a meeting, but if this does not help in solving the problem, all responsibility will fall on the client, and not on the service minder who diagnoses and is responsible for him.

Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
STO on Courage, 748-30-20, from 10 to 20, no days off.

WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33

When to repair the engine:
- increased consumption of engine oil in the internal combustion engine;
- smoke from the exhaust pipe;
- carbon deposits on spark plugs;
- uneven engine idling;
- increased consumption of gasoline;
- significant drop in engine power;
- knocking in the engine or extraneous sounds that were not there before;
- low oil pressure in the engine;
- the engine is overheated.

Warranty for work- 6 months no mileage limit.

Engine diagnostics during repair with us is free!

The final cost of an engine repair depends on many factors. Often, people disassemble the engine themselves, trying to make engine repairs with their own hands. When it comes to the understanding that they cannot assemble it themselves, they bring us a disassembled engine. When you call the service station, please specify the current condition of the engine and you will be told the exact cost of its repair.

If the car is not in motion, we can send a tow truck.

1. Remove the cylinder head bolts in 2-3 passes using a special tool in the sequence shown in the figure.

2. Using a special tool, squeeze the valve spring and remove the crackers from the valve stem. Slowly release the spring compression tool and remove the spring plate, valve spring, spring seat and valve from the cylinder head.

Note

Prepare numbered plastic bags or containers to store the valves.

3. Use pliers to remove the oil deflector cap.

Note

Do not reuse the oil seal.

Examination Cylinder head

1. Inspect the cylinder head for damage, cracks, oil and coolant leaks. Replace the cylinder head if necessary.

2. Remove scale, sealant and carbon deposits. Blow out the lubrication passages with compressed air. With a metal ruler and a feeler gauge in six directions A, B ... check the flatness of the cylinder head.

Re-grind the cylinder head if necessary.

Standard deviation from flatness: less than 0.03 mm Maximum permissible deviation from flatness: less than 0.20 mm

1. Use a wire brush to clean the valve.

2. Inspect each valve for wear, damage and deformation in area "B" and, if necessary, repair or replace it.

If the end “A” of the bar is pounded or worn out, repair the chamfers as necessary. This recovery should be limited to minimal metal removal. Also check the cylinder head thickness.

Nominal thickness of the cylindrical part of the valve head, mm - inlet valves: 1.1

— exhaust valves: 1.3 Minimum permissible thickness of the cylindrical part of the valve head, mm

— intake valves: 0.8

— exhaust valves: 1.0

Valve spring

1. Inspect each valve spring for cracks or damage. Measure the free length of the spring.

2. Place the spring on a flat horizontal surface and measure the deflection of the top of the spring from the vertical plane.

Spring length, unloaded: 44 mm Spring length, loaded 21.6 kg: 35.0 mm

Spring loaded length 41.5 kg: 27.2 mm

Deviation of the spring axis from the vertical plane: no more than 1.5 °

Maximum permissible reduction in spring length without load: -1 mm

Maximum permissible deviation of the spring axis from the vertical plane: no more than 4 °

Valve Guides

Check the clearance between the stem and the valve guide. If the clearance exceeds the limit, replace the valve guide with an oversized bushing.

Nominal clearance between the guide sleeve and the valve stem, mm:

— inlet valves: 0.03-0.06

— exhaust valves: 0.05–0.08 Maximum allowable clearance between the guide sleeve and the valve stem, mm:

— intake valves: 0.1

— exhaust valves: 0.15

Valve seat

Check the valve seat for overheating and an abnormal seating surface in contact with the valve poppet. Repair or replace the valve seat as necessary.

Check the wear of the valve guide before machining the valve seat. If the valve guide is worn, replace it and cut the valve seat with a milling cutter, while strictly maintaining the chamfer width and centering of the seat and valve guide. After grinding, rub the valve against the seat using lapping paste.

Replacing the valve seat

1. Any plug-in valve seat that is worn to the limit should be replaced at room temperature by cutting the wall as shown.

2. After removing the old valve seat, bore the seat to the larger valve seat. Dimensions for processing are shown in the table.

3. Heat the cylinder head to 250 ° C and press in a new oversized valve seat. When pressing in, the valve seat must be at room temperature. After a new valve seat has been installed, it must be chamfered.

4. Rub the valve against the new seat using lapping paste.

Width of the working chamfer of the valve seat, mm: - inlet valves: 0.8-1.2 - exhaust valves: 1.3-1.7

Replacing the valve guide

1. Using a mandrel for pressing the guide bushings and using a press, push the valve bushing out of the cylinder head towards the cylinder block.

1. Using special tool 09221-22000 A / B, press the valve guide bushing out of the cylinder head towards the cylinder block.

2. Expand the hole in the cylinder head to accommodate the oversized bushing.

3. Using a tool for installing the valve guide sleeve 09221-22000 A / B, press in the sleeve from the upper side of the cylinder head.

4. After pressing in the valve guides, insert the new valves and check the gap between its stem and the guide bush.

5. After replacing the guide bush, check that the valve is seated correctly. Grind the valve seat if necessary.

Oversized valve guide

Note

1) Clean all parts before installation.

2) Apply a thin coat of engine oil to all sliding surfaces.

1. Install the spring support plates.
Press the valve stem seals onto the guide bushings with light hammer blows on the mandrel of special tool 09222-22001.

Note

• Do not reuse old valve stem seals.

• Improper installation of the oil valve seal adversely affects its working edge due to eccentricity and leads to leakage of engine oil through the valve guides.

2. Lubricate the valve stem with engine oil and install the valve. When installing the valve, do not use excessive force to avoid damaging the oil seal. Check that the valve moves smoothly.

3. Install the springs and spring plates. The springs must be installed with the enamel side towards the plate.

4. Compress the spring with the special tool 09222-28000.09222-28100. Install the crackers and remove the special spring compression tool.

Note

When compressing the spring, make sure that the valve stem is not pinched by the spring compressor.

Oversized plug-in valve seat

A Hyundai Getz with a 1.4 engine came to us with complaints about high oil consumption. The oil had to be topped up more often than visiting the gas station.

On the advice of garage masters, the car owner was initially focused on replacing oil seals and nothing more. But after dismantling the block head, the opinion of the car owner changed dramatically.

It should be noted that the method of replacing oil seals without dismantling the cylinder head is applicable only in two cases. The first is when the caps have a "bad reputation", that is, they wear out constructively in a very short period of time, as, for example, happens on some engines of the French car industry. The second case is applicable only for unscrupulous decisions, when the car is "painted with lips" before the sale, performing only superficial work to create the appearance of a working car. In all other cases, replacement of oil caps is carried out only with the removal of the block head. Indeed, in addition to the simplest operation to dismantle old and install new caps, such works will be carried out as: troubleshooting of valves, chamfering, grinding of valves, troubleshooting of the cylinder head mating surface and, if necessary, grinding it on special equipment, replacing camshaft oil seals, troubleshooting and, if necessary, replacing hydraulic compensators.

In our case, in addition to repairing the head of the block, a complete list of work on the engine is carried out, which is a major overhaul. But before the overhaul, we have to work hard and wash off all those positions that have accumulated in the engine.

Thick resinous deposits in the internal parts of the engine appear mainly due to a violation of the timing of the engine oil change. We will not talk about fake oil - it is more than obvious that a fake will not fulfill its tasks.
It has been said many times that engine oil is not eternal and at a certain point in its "life" it begins to thicken and create deposits on the inner surfaces of the engine. These deposits are sometimes so strongly adhered that they cannot be removed except by mechanical means.
The danger of tar and ash deposits is obvious - clogging of channels and, as a result, oil starvation, which leads to seizures both in the piston group and on the crankshaft and camshaft journals. And this is death to the motor. But before such dire consequences, deposits block the mobility of piston and oil scraper rings. This leads to a sharp increase in oil consumption and severe wear of the piston group.

In our case, the oil channels did not have time to be blocked by coke, but the piston group is under overhaul.
Getting Started

Valve cover immediately after removal Deposits in the pallet

Valve status They removed the camshafts from the block head. There are a lot of deposits. Surprising that the oil passages weren't clogged Oil pump for replacement. Despite the fact that it is practically impossible to fully test the pump, it is obvious that working in such extreme conditions could not but affect his health. With our hands, we managed to move the compression rings, when, like oil scraper, we did not even give in to a screwdriver

The cylinder block is bored to the overhaul size, a new piston and pump is installed We put the repaired and assembled unit in place. The block head will be installed next Cylinder head after overhaul

Well, then the assembly in the reverse order, installation of the attachment, filling with technical fluids, starting the engine and its continuous testing. The car is ready!

On the market there is a huge number of different kinds of chemical agents, each of which promises its own exceptional properties. Without begging for merits and without putting them under suspicion, we work according to the classic scheme - kerosene. Kerosene provides the necessary dissolution of deposits, does not wash off the oil film, unlike gasoline, is widely available and has an acceptable cost. But kerosene does not handle varnish deposits as well as acetone does. But acetone is no longer widely available and sometimes it is very problematic to buy it.

Car repair. Replacing the engine mount on a Hyundai Getz (Huyndai getz) 2009.

repair of the rear engine support. Hyundai getz