In detail: do-it-yourself Honda fit engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
I haven't updated the review for a long time, now it's time for a big MOT, in order.:
First of all, we paid attention to the gearbox, since:
- Depressurization of the boot on the gearbox was detected. - Replacement of the boot and, accordingly, new grease.
- replacement of fluid in the gearbox (every 40,000)
In the near future, it is planned to replace the fluid in the checkpoint.
In general, a trouble-free car, there were no malfunctions for the entire period of operation.
Except for the rear right pillar, it was decided to bleed both rear pillars.
The knock disappeared, the suspension became more assembled or something.
Yesterday I sold a car, this review was written half a year after buying a car, but for some reason it was not published.
After 4 years of operation, what can I say about the Honda fit.
Was in 1 hands, was operated every day, the runs in my opinion were very modest (for 4 years almost 80 thousand km).
After some time, I still decided on 16th sneakers, I came across an option about a good price. the profile 185/55/16 (factory) turned out to be tougher than the 14th, the consumption increased, the dynamics fell, but the handling became higher and the appearance.
During the computer diagnostics of the car, deviations in the fuel supply were detected, the specialists gave recommendations to check the fuel filter, fuel pump, injectors.
The fuel filter is located in the gas tank, together with the fuel pump, I decided to change them. You can get to them by removing the plastic between the front seats. As I will not tell, there is a detailed video on YouTube. A fine filter and a fuel pump with a coarse filter were purchased from the Automarket. When I disassembled and pulled out the filter, the filter was black as coal, and in the bath there was about a teaspoon of some kind of sand.
Video (click to play).
The day off and the sun is a wonderful day!
When the seller drove the car, looking under the hood, I saw that the engine was washed and simply filled with polish. To my question “why?”, I did not receive an intelligible answer. Naturally, in 1.5 years a lot of dust settled on it, and over time it still got dirty.
In short, I decided to wash the internal combustion engine. Having monitored this process, I came to the conclusion that it is better and safer to do it yourself. I bought a product for washing the engine, took a canister of water (because there is no access to water), an empty bottle of polish (for rinsing), and the process started.
I'll leave it here. Suddenly someone will come in handy.
In the garage of a familiar phyto-grower I found a tidy lying idle. I took it for experiments. The run unwinds easily. This is if suddenly someone starts to say that the run cannot be wound up)))
Zalyuftil right wheel bearing. At first I wanted to take a contract hub from a fit, but as it turned out, hubs from GD4 are rare and cost more than from GD1,2,3. Their difference is in the size of the drive splines. For this reason, instead of the native hub, I took a pair of front hubs from the Honda Mobilio Spyke GK1. They are very popular with phyto-growers, because the diameter of the brake disc is 261 mm versus 240 for the native one, which means that the pressure area of the brake pads is larger and, in theory, braking should improve. Otherwise, they bolt-on on the GD4. On the GD1,2,3 it is necessary to additionally change the drives.
It's time to re-adjust the valves. At the same time I took a picture of the condition of the valve cover and rockers after several changes of GOOD oil. Everything is as new - no coke, no varnish, no carbon deposits. Well, no oil consumption, of course. At the same time, I replaced the leaking VTEC valve gasket and cleaned the throttle and the dusty idle valve.
When stopping at traffic lights, jerks and kicks began to be felt. With such symptoms, the first step is to change the candles, check the coils and change the slurry in the variator. The fluid in the variator turned out to be sooo dirty, not naturally brown.Initially, I considered only the original replacement fluid, but its price is considerably overpriced. Therefore, I made a choice in favor of the non-original Idemistu CVTF, which is half the price of the original. The credibility of idemitsu is added by the fact that this office is engaged in the manufacture of ORGINAL lubricants for the Honda concern, which means that the quality is not worse.
From here you will learn how to remove the engine from a 2011 Honda Fit car. Removal is carried out together with the automatic transmission.
Do-it-yourself car repair of any complexity. The channel is based on real car repairs arriving at a car service for repairs "AvtoManual", located in the city of Seversk, Tomsk region. A visual aid for everyone who wants to renovate their car independently and free of charge.
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The main causes of engine breakdowns and malfunctioning are dust and dirt that inevitably gets into it. Poor quality fuel is also detrimental to the unit. Most often, there are breakdowns of motors that are actively used in urban conditions, where it is often necessary to change the operating mode. In many cases, the harsh Russian climate is also to blame - starting the unit in the cold does not go without consequences.
Repair of the Honda Fit engine may be necessary if low-quality consumables are used during the operation of the car and regular maintenance of the vehicle is not carried out. Engine failure can be caused by overheating caused by a leaky cooling system or fan failure.
Statistics indicate that fifty percent of units that have been repaired have been improperly operated or not serviced frequently enough. The rest of the mechanisms become unusable due to the natural wear and tear of parts. A modern power plant is usually designed for three hundred thousand kilometers. After depleting its resource, the internal combustion engine begins to consume a lot of oil, knocks appear, uncharacteristic noise, power drops, or it stops starting altogether.
Repair of a Honda Fit engine in the technical centers of the JapAuto company always begins with its visual diagnostics. Inspection allows you to identify some malfunctions and narrow the search for defects. After visual diagnostics, it is the turn of mechanical diagnostics, which allows you to make an accurate diagnosis and proceed directly to the repair.
Most often, the breakdown is the so-called "oil starvation", when the oil pressure in the internal combustion engine is at a very low level or none at all. In this case, after a few seconds of engine operation, a strong heating of the liners - sliding bearings occurs, immediately after that the oil film between the crankshaft journals and the liners breaks, the antifriction layer of the liners begins to melt, the liners are welded to the journals, sometimes they turn.
This leads to deformation of the shaft, connecting rods, often even the cylinder block bed breaks down. The camshaft and its beds can also be damaged.If the valve train is equipped with hydraulic pushers or hydraulic lifters, wear products together with oil sometimes get into this hydraulic equipment, which leads to their seizure.
"Oil starvation" occurs either when low-quality oil is used, or when the vehicle is operated at low temperatures, when the oil thickens. In both cases, deposits are formed, which subsequently thicken even more. Such a consistency that is destructive to the mechanism is especially often acquired by grease in the engines of Japanese and American cars during short trips in winter.
Damage to parts, as well as their accelerated wear, can be caused by another fairly common defect - the ingress of coolant into the oil system. This can happen both in the event of overheating or damage to the cooling system, and in the case of insufficient tightness of the cylinder head gasket. Fuel can also get into the oil; this situation sometimes occurs in mechanisms with direct fuel injection and in carburetor engines.
Another common cause of engine failure is overheating, which occurs as a result of defects in the engine cooling system. Cooling problems are usually caused by problems with the coolant pump or by leaks. When overheating, the temperature of the unit parts increases sharply, pistons begin to knock in the cylinders, and the cylinder head is deformed.
Repair of the Honda Fit engine can consist in both correcting the geometry of parts and in overhauling entire units - the gas distribution mechanism, filters, candles, and the coolant pump. Ultrasonic cleaning of the nozzles is often carried out.
After the repair, the unit is run-in. Typically, the test period is eight hundred kilometers, during the break-in, you must carefully monitor the engine operating mode - the number of revolutions should not exceed three thousand per minute. After running-in, the oil filter is changed, new oil is poured. If the technology was violated during the repair and assembly of the structure, defects will make themselves felt already in the first five hundred kilometers. For the next two thousand kilometers, the motor is operated in a gentle mode.
The Honda Fit first appeared on the Japanese market in 2001 in a 5-door version. Later, its sales began in the United States and other countries. In the European market, it is better known as the Honda Jazz. Several times the auto of the year was recognized by prestigious publications. It is completed with engines of various powers, including a hybrid installation. Since the beginning of sales, constant changes and improvements have been made to the design of the car. At the end of 2007, the 2nd generation of this model is released. The new version differs from the previous one not only in a modified body, but also in a complete set.
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HondaFit 2011 - engine repair # 3
In the third part, we put contract spare parts on the engine, assemble the engine and install it.
Honda Fit engine replacement
Replacement of the L13A engine with a contract one.
HondaFit 2011 - engine repair # 2
In the second part you will see the disassembly of the engine, namely: removing the box from the engine, Removing the attachment.
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Honda Fit 2011 - engine repair # 1
From here you will learn how to remove the engine from a 2011 Honda Fit car. Removal is carried out together with the automatic transmission.
Improving Honda Fit does not require expensive accessories and special knowledge in the field of tuning. As practice shows, to increase power and improve handling, it is quite enough to replace some parts of the suspension and motor. Let's take a look at the principles of Honda refinement using the 2002 model as an example.
There is some disagreement among experienced Japanese car tuning specialists about the need to replace the throttle with a Fit. Some say that such an operation does not bring significant results. Others firmly believe that replacing the damper will add power to the powertrain and reduce Honda's acceleration. The main reason for this controversy is the fact that the enlarged damper has practically no effect on cars manufactured before 2002. Regular flushing of the throttle with a high-quality cleaner will help such a car more.
However, newer Honda vehicles are equipped with naturally aspirated direct injection engines, which, after increasing the throttle, deliver a more air-saturated fuel mixture. Hence, an increase in engine power by about 15% and an increase in dynamics by 10%. Ultimately, the car accelerates faster, with acceleration becoming more stable over the entire length of time until the Fit's top speed is reached.
The first thing to do for tuning is to choose the right part. There are various dampers on the market with diameters ranging from 52 to 56 mm. As practice shows, parts with a large diameter are in the greatest demand. But, as we know, the diameter of the air inlet of the standard Honda receiver is 53 mm. Therefore, a damper with a diameter of 52 mm is sufficient for him. The air that passes through such a part will fully enter the receiver, and after it, to the Fit motor. As for the manufacturer, this factor is not of fundamental importance. The main thing is not to take a choke without marking, since it will not bring any result.
Having decided on the part, you can start preparing the tools. For tuning a 2002 car. we will need:
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers;
set of wrenches;
new bolts for fastening;
pliers;
cleaner type Wynn's or from another manufacturer.
First, you need to disconnect the corrugation of the air duct and disconnect the wiring from the idle speed controller and throttle position sensor. The latter will need to be removed and cleaned of engine oil that clogs it when the Honda engine is running. Next, we disconnect the hoses that are connected to the damper. Remove the mechanical drive cable and unscrew the fasteners holding the Fit flap.
The next step is to clean the throttle. To do this, a new part must be treated with a cleaner, then wipe its surface with a clean rag. Next, we install the finished damper in a regular place near the Honda engine and collect all the removed parts in the reverse order.
Experienced craftsmen advise to supplement the replacement of the throttle with the installation of a zero filter. This allows even more air to enter the engine, making it more powerful and more dynamic. Tuning of this kind does not require a lot of experience, but you should be very careful when choosing a replacement part. As practice shows, in the case of the Fit model, the best option would be to buy a zero. Specter HPR 0351, costing about 2 thousand rubles. This filter has blades of the optimal size, which completely removes dust from the air.
Another good model for a 2002 Honda is the 76mm filters from K&N... When buying products from this company, you should pay attention to the price. If it is more than 2.5 thousand rubles, then this is an original part. If the cost is less, then most likely it is a fake.
After purchasing the item, you can proceed to tuning the car. From the tools we need a flat and Phillips screwdriver, a set of wrenches and pliers. First, we disconnect the wiring from the standard DFID Fit.Using a flat screwdriver, remove the rubber plug from the sensor pipe. We unscrew the DFID fasteners holding the latter over the standard Honda filter. Carefully remove the air filter and use the pliers to pry out the rubber plugs from the body of the part.
Next, you need to unscrew the ground wire fastening screws from the standard Honda cylinder head. We assemble the mounting bracket of the new filter and screw in 2 bolts from the mounting of the fuel flow sensor into it. We install a zero filter under the DMRV and slightly tighten the clamp. We connect both elements with the remaining fasteners and continue to use the Fit. After tuning the car in 2002, it will become much more agile. Plus, the Fit's motor won't heat up that much. In addition, the car will start to consume a little less fuel.
