Do-it-yourself hovo engine repair

One of the core activities of SAS No. 1 is the repair of ICEs for HOWO trucks, as well as other brands of Chinese production. Only highly qualified craftsmen with specialized equipment and the necessary knowledge are capable of eliminating malfunctions of an imported motor. It is possible to avoid problems with the motor in the future only if repairs are carried out in a timely manner. This will also increase the life of the unit.

Diagnostics of engines of HOWO trucks should be carried out with the following frequency:

• For a car used in intercity transportation - once every six months or after 10 thousand km;
• For communal vehicles - at least once a year or after 15–20 thousand km;
• For transport used for local transportation - once every 12-18 months or after 10 thousand km;
• For trucks that are used in construction - every six months.

HOWO truck owners are required to contact a car service if the following signs begin to appear:

• Decreased acceleration dynamics or power. This indicates that the filters are clogged. If the problem is not corrected, the motor will wear out faster.
• The car began to consume more oil and fuel. Further operation of the engine will contribute to breakdowns of the crankshaft and cylinder blocks.
• Knocks and noises are heard. The problem requires urgent repair of hinged mechanisms. Ignoring will lead to the need to replace expensive components.
• The color of the exhaust gas has changed. In this case, there is a risk of serious damage to key parts of the internal combustion engine.
• The engine will not start. If nothing is done, then soon even a major overhaul will not help.

The range of services for the repair of HOWO diesel engines, which are provided by the company "SAS No. 1", includes:

• Adjustment, installation, dismantling and installation of the motor;
• Identification of faulty parts and their subsequent replacement;
• Computer diagnostics;
• Determination of the degree of deterioration of components.

It is also possible to overhaul the internal combustion engine, involving the implementation of the following work:

• Restoration, welding and pressure testing of the cylinder block, its head;
• Crankshaft boring and grinding;
• Elimination of malfunctions of hinged mechanisms;
• Cutting of block sleeves.

Forum → Technique Howo → howo wd 615 engine repair question

guys tell me after the overhaul of the engine

la. after running in. somewhere I drove 800 km threw oil through the breather. new piston ring liners. disassembled the engine not any signs only for 2 pistons rings in a row stood up. maybe someone faced such a problem dv wd 615.95 euros 2

asxab78:
threw out the oil through the breather Here, throw these words into the search engine of the forum, there were several topics on this issue.

Pictures of my coupling and work can be seen on the website (loader56.rf)

What liners did you buy?)
I know the reason)

The sleeves were 2500 each and there were 1500 each, I took 1500 silver

furious, well tell me the reason

asxab78:
furious, well tell me the reason

you did not measure the fit under the sleeves in any way.
You will measure, you will be surprised

furious:
furious:
asxab78:
furious, well tell me the reason

you did not measure the fit under the sleeves in any way.
You can measure it, you will be surprised [/ Q] in more detail, there is also such a problem, only we bought the block from our hands, there are no cracks, the bed was measured in the service, all the rules, but the machine throws oil through the sopun from time to time, we changed the piston kit, did not help

You take off the cylinder head.
You take an internal gauge, measure the sleeve in the block.
You come to the conclusion that a replacement is required.
You take out the sleeve for replacement, measure the landing sleeve with an internal gauge.
If everything is fine (within 0.02mm), then you put in new sleeves, after having measured it with an inside gauge and a micrometer (you will also be surprised).
If the liner is not very good in bed, then you throw out the block.
Well, or as an option, a repair sleeve or sleeve a block.
But the motor is already quite old, few people want to buy a batch of repair sleeves.

Ford Expedition, 98 Eddie Bauer

Repair of washing machines in Moscow

Ford Expedition, 98 Eddie Bauer

Repair of washing machines in Moscow

Ford Expedition, 98 Eddie Bauer

Repair of washing machines in Moscow

Like Donfeng, Fau, Shanxi-Man, Beifan motors and boxes are the same as on hovs
they are collected in the same factories

Watched Dongfengi and Shanxi man I liked it better

Ford Expedition, 98 Eddie Bauer

Repair of washing machines in Moscow

Chance - he even has quality control, and the Chinese themselves often lead the story to the final exploiter, in addition, when some acquaintances flew a node after 1.5 years of operation in the north, some Chinese arrived, took pictures, the node was changed under warranty.

but the price tag of the chance is almost like that of KAMAZ.
and, even on the Hovs, our electricians had a lot of work, a couple of times they completely rewired the wiring. but there is a possibility that this is due to the trucks assembled in a handicraft way.
for spare parts - that's for sure, there is generally everything.

HOWO trucks are characterized by large carrying capacity, excellent maneuverability and maneuverability, they are safe and comfortable. Recently, a new model HOWO A7, a new generation Chinese truck, has appeared on the Russian market. It has already established itself as a reliable and efficient truck and dump truck for work in a wide variety of conditions. Creating the new HOWO A7, the manufacturer has seriously updated the design of the HOWO, which made it possible to bring its technical characteristics very close to the best world counterparts. But, like any technique, HOWO trucks and dump trucks need periodic maintenance and repairs.

Freight car service "Slavyanka" - your car is in good hands!

Before carrying out repair work, the masters of our Slavyanka car service will carry out a comprehensive diagnosis. Based on the experience of working with Chinese equipment, our specialists will help you to correctly select and carry out the necessary amount of repair work and give recommendations for further operation.

Service station "Slavyanka" will be able to advise as quickly as possible regarding the repair you are interested in, which is not reflected in the above list of works and the cost of spare parts. We have a system of discounts and bonuses, we provide our regular customers with special conditions.

If necessary, the service station "Slavyanka" has the opportunity to provide a service for the departure of an auto electrician-diagnostician to carry out computer diagnostics, remove errors and receive recommendations for further repairs. (within the city and the nearest suburb)

In the event of an accident, our specialists will be able to promptly go to the parking lot and make an inventory of damaged and out-of-order components and assemblies, followed by an assessment of the cost of work and spare parts for restoring the car.

Not so long ago, the Chinese truck manufacturer Howo entered the Russian market. Manufacturers have developed trucks with a modern design, high safety, convenient handling and economical use of fuel. But what kind of truck is not complete without breakdowns? Our car service carries out a whole range of works on technical diagnostics, maintenance and repair of trucks of all models.

• body repair (straightening, painting),
• repair of the cabin and frame,
• repair of gearbox and engine,
• clutch replacement,
• boring and replacement of pads,
• replacement of springs and bushings,
• repair of electrical equipment,
• balancing,
• toe adjustment and other services.

Why us? Here you will find highly qualified specialists, repair shops equipped with the latest diagnostic equipment, components and spare parts from the manufacturer, quality and speed of service.

When installing the fuel pump, it is necessary to set the ignition timing correctly. The ignition is installed on the hovo using a flange mounted on the compressor shaft.

In the position shown in the photograph, the piston of the first cylinder is approximately at top dead center when the fuel is compressed. To make sure it is necessary, open the valve cover, and when cranking the crankshaft, the rocker arms remain stationary. Now you need to accurately set the ignition timing, it is 9-11 degrees, in fact, 12 degrees is permissible. There is a viewing window at the bottom of the clutch housing through which you can see the degree scale on the flywheel.

We combine the mark on the casing with the line on the flywheel corresponding to the required value of degrees, usually 10.

Then we loosen the flange located on the compressor shaft

and combine the mark on the injection pump flange with the flag located on the injection pump housing.

He is absent in the photo. Since the flag is attached with a bolt of the front cover of the injection pump, so we focus in the middle of the bolt. Thus, the advance of the ignition angle is 10 degrees.

Think engine overhaul is a headache? You think correctly. But when you find out how much they take for work, your head will stop hurting and your hands will start to work. Because for that kind of money, three engines can be repaired. This means that we will save money and master the overhaul on our own.

As you drove along, the engine of your beloved iron horse suddenly knocked. Don't be in a hurry to immediately grab the "capital". We must first check everything.

First, let's immediately determine that this is not an engine bulkhead when it was disassembled, cleaned, gaskets changed and assembled. There are already more serious reasons. So, let's pay attention to the prerequisites:

1. How old is the car? How long has she already run? Foreign or domestic car? If the car is more than 10 years old, it is domestic, for example "Zhiguli" or "Moskvich", then its limit is 150 thousand kilometers. For a foreign car - up to 300. Perhaps, the resource of your car is exhausted, and for this reason the power has decreased.
2. Let's see what's wrong with the oil. Yeah, the pressure has dropped again, while the car is bursting oil shamelessly - another reason for repairs.
3. We check the compression, since this is the main parameter that influences the choice - whether a major overhaul is or is not needed. We take a compressometer from friends, take measurements. For example, in our case, out of four indicators in one, instead of eight, there is already five - which means that the time has come for a major overhaul.

Of course, with information. We take out a manual, in which it is reported in detail and with diagrams how to repair your particular brand of car. We find a catalog on the Internet that contains spare parts for this car in order to immediately determine the prices and, possibly, place an order in the online store.

• keys - ratchet, torque;
• mandrels for coupling pistons, caps;
• desiccant for valves;
• micrometer;
• heads;
• device for adjusting valves;
• two-legged or three-legged puller;
• stethoscope;
• tweezers;
• support stand;
• hydraulic chain hoist;
• a set of pullers.

We drive the car into the garage. We remove the battery. Disconnect the hood so that it does not interfere.

We carefully drain all liquids: antifreeze, oil. To do this, instead of bolts on the radiator and the cylinder block, we install faucets - they are sold in any auto shop - and drain them using hoses into the prepared container.

Considering the age of the car, we very carefully disconnect the wiring, connectors, tubes, hoses, etc., so that they do not crumble in our hands, nothing is damaged or cut off. And then some craftsmen still repair the wiring, the cooling system.

We remove without haste everything that can interfere with getting the engine: air filter, carburetor, gas pump - do not forget to screw the bolt, oil separator, distributor, cylinder block cover, camshaft, cylinder head studs, and then the head block, crankcase protection, generator with belt, fan, radiator. We unscrew the bolts that secure the engine. The engine can now be removed.

Before you get to the insides of the engine and start doing the overhaul, try to safely remove it from the car. Call an assistant - you can't do it alone.

Prepare four tires by stacking them on top of each other. Place two pieces of wood on top. Then lay the engine on them.

Now attach the talcum powder, i.e. the lift, to the ceiling beam, it can be attached to the tripod by positioning it above the hood.

Do you know how much the engine weighs? How do you like an aggregate of 140 kilograms? Serious thing? It is clear that you cannot lift it with your hands, and if it falls down, you cannot do without injury. To prevent this from happening, be extremely careful, check the attachment of the talcum powder, and only then start lifting.

Carefully, without too much fuss, pull the engine up, bring it to the stack of tires that have already been laid out in front of the car, lower it, turn it over so that the crankcase is on top, on wooden blocks.

When disassembling, remember or mark somewhere where you are shooting from and where the part was originally located, so that later there will not be superfluous ones, like some homemade ones.

Start gutting the flywheel: first remove the clutch, then get to the crankcase boot. Go to the oil filter. After unscrewing the fasteners, remove the bolts and remove the crankcase, being careful not to break the oil intake.

Now remove the front and rear covers of the block together with the oil seal. Take care of the piglet sprocket, remove it using a puller. Go to the chain stop and unscrew, remove the tensioner shoe, and then the chain, the crankshaft sprocket.

Go to the crankshaft. Remove the nuts from the connecting rod caps, then the caps, carefully pull out the pistons, remove the liners, carefully inspect them for reuse. If you can no longer use them, take a sample and buy new ones from a specialist store or the car market. Just first decide whether you need a groove for the necks, and only then fit the liners under them. Take out the crankshaft with persistent half rings.

Remove piglet, oil pump and its drive gear. Turn over, placing it sideways, remove the pistons with connecting rods from the cylinders. Buy a new piston system according to the old model. You still need to contact a car repair shop.

Take new pistons, let the block be bored under them, and also grind the crankshaft and press the piston pins. Measure with a micrometer the crankshaft journal, look in the manual for what size the earbuds should be, buy them. If you choose the correct liners, you will be able to rotate the crankshaft by hand - this will be the fit test.

Begin assembly by removing carbon deposits. Remove all metal shavings, rinse the beds, lubricate them and the liners with engine oil, and reinstall using the manual. On the rear wall of the block, place thrust half rings so that the grooves are turned on the plane of the crankshaft.

Now you can replace the crankshaft with liners and covers, checking the marking guide, the places where the locks are located. Make sure they are all on the same side. Take a torque wrench, tighten the bolts, turn the crankshaft - if it turns easily, then everything is in order. Otherwise, replace the earbuds with thinner ones.

Ask in the workshop to assemble the piston, because you yourself will not be able to heat the connecting rod heads to more than 100 degrees, but you need to heat them over 200. Check the process.

Now carefully lubricate the piston pins through the holes, throw in the piston rings without haste, make sure that the slots, holes are preserved, tighten the mandrel with a wrench. Lay the block on its side, insert the piston with the connecting rod, not forgetting the markings.

Take a wooden block and, gently knocking, push the piston into the cylinder. Flip the block over to its original position, but do it so that the crankshaft is at the top. Tighten the bolts.

Lightly begin to pull the connecting rods to the necks. Then rotate the crankshaft to make sure everything is set correctly and the liners do not need to be changed. Now you can tighten the bolts.

Put a new oil seal on the cover, install it on the block, pre-coat the joints with sealant. Proceed with installing the clutch boot and flywheel. Remember that the flywheel groove must be turned to the fourth knee of the crankshaft - this is important.

Now install the sprocket, piglet, tensioner shoe, front oil seal, oil pump, flywheel clutch.

Finally, you can install the engine and bolt it. Tighten carefully to avoid stripping threads or bursting parts. Return the pump, generator, radiator, fuel pump to their original places, connect the wires, hoses, terminals, check the fastening strength.

As soon as an overhaul of the engine is completed, it is imperative to carry out a cold run-in before installing it on the car. This is done so that the new parts rub against each other, and is carried out in passive, bench mode or in hard towing, when, due to the movement of the wheels, the crankshaft starts to spin and a cold break-in occurs.

So, in the garage, connect the hoses for the air filter, cooling system, oil supply, outlet to the engine. Install the plugs. Connect the unit to an electric motor.

Fill in the coolant that was drained during disassembly, heating it to 85 degrees, then oil heated to 80 degrees. At low revs, from 600 to 1000, let the engine run for 2 minutes, at high revs, from 1200 to 1400, for 5 minutes.

1. Before the car has run two and a half thousand kilometers, do not accelerate sharply, pick up speed gradually, do not overload the engine.
2. After the first run, drain the oil, replacing it with a clean one, but of the same brand (preferably).

Now you are convinced that a do-it-yourself engine overhaul is possible and profitable, because it costs three times cheaper. In addition, it will allow you to operate the car for several more years as a result of extending the resource, prevent unexpected breakdowns on the road, and help avoid an accident.

The following video will tell you what spare parts are needed for the overhaul of the VAZ 2103 engine:

By the way, at idle, it will work exactly on 3 cylinders out of six (a feature of Euro-3 electronics, even on 2, it will work, just not very smoothly), but if you gas it, then the sausage is already very noticeable even on 5 -ty pots. In the case of an increased valve clearance, there will be no other external signs other than knocking. With the connecting rod turned, by the way, too (but only for a short time, until everything is completely turned into trash there).

[Message modified by user 10/17/2012 11:01 PM]

[Message modified by user 10/18/2012 00:15 AM]

In fact, the motor is not the worst part there, and if you do not take into account the main consumable - rubber, then most often the chassis flies there due to overload (pivots, balance beams, jet thrust). The motor has a kind of constructive flaw - a low-lying pallet, and (especially when working in quarries) if you hit a rock with a pallet on a loaded car, it often tears off the oil receiver along with a piece of the oil pump, and if the motor does not instantly drown, then without pressure, the knee under load wraps in a matter of seconds. On Euro-3 engines, there is sometimes a leakage of the solarium sump through the return pipes of the injectors under the valve covers, which leads to oil dilution and a drop in pressure (this is not as scary as tearing off the oil pump, but if you do not monitor the pressure and oil level, the motor will also grunt ).

This section provides guidance on repairing diesel engines and repairing fuel equipment.

Repair and subsequent assembly of the WD615 diesel engine of the HOWO truck.