Do-it-yourself Lanos engine repair

The owner of this car, Chevrolet Lanos, turned to a car service with a complaint that blue smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, and an increased oil consumption occurs in the engine. However, before starting work, you need to make a more accurate diagnosis of the engine.

The fears of specialists were confirmed, the power unit really needs repair. First you need to dismantle the motor from its original place. To do this, you must first disconnect all adjacent wires and tubes. We drain the coolant and engine oil. After that, the engine mount from the bottom will be disconnected.

Where do you pull the engine out: top or bottom? It will be more convenient to do this from above, but you will have to remove the hood, it is held by two bolts, so there should be no problems with this. So, the power unit is removed, now it's time to disassemble it. Disassembly showed that the previous owner of the Chevrolet Lanos did not monitor the engine and brought it to a deplorable state. We thoroughly clean all the parts and elements and determine what needs to be completely changed and what will continue to serve. For example, the camshaft was covered with a lot of scratches and shells, it was decided to replace it.

It is very important to use high-quality spare parts here, otherwise the effect of the repair will not last long and soon it will have to be repeated again. Among other things, the cylinder block is calibrated. The pistons in our case must also be replaced. Additionally, we buy new gaskets. In order not to select each gasket separately, there are special repair kits for specific car models. As a result, liners, pistons, piston rings, a camshaft, hydraulic lifters, rocker arms were replaced.

In addition to the gaskets, the oil seals were also replaced. The assembly process takes place in reverse order. After the repair, new high-quality oil and coolant were poured into the engine. By the way, if we talk about the engine cooling system, then all the pipes were also changed, a new thermostat was installed. Overhaul has solved all the problems that the car had.

Some work was done with the suspension, but we will talk about this in the next article. The restoration procedure cost a tidy sum, and this price is due to the fact that for a long time the car was almost completely deprived of any maintenance. Naturally, after the repair, we cannot fully check the power characteristics of the remanufactured engine. Why? Because the motor must be run-in. Let's just note that he started to work cleaner, smoother.

The electronic engine control unit also did not stand aside, it was reflashed, as a result of which the car became more economical. At first, after repairs, the same gray smoke came out of the muffler as before, but experts convinced the owner of the car that this was absolutely normal. The fact is that the parts of the exhaust system are stained with oil and all this should burn out.

We carry out the work when it is necessary to repair the engine or replace it. We show engine dismantling operations on a car with power steering and air conditioning.

We relieve the pressure in the engine power system (see Replacing the Chevrolet Lanos fuel filter).

We remove the storage battery.

Disconnect the intermediate pipe from the catalytic converter of the exhaust system (see Removing the intermediate pipe ").

Disconnect the tips of the fuel pipes from the fuel rail fittings and the fuel pressure regulator (see.Removing the fuel rail and injectors).

Disconnect the tip of the throttle cable from the throttle assembly sector (see Replacing the throttle cable).

Remove the hose of the vacuum brake booster and the hose of the absolute air pressure sensor in the intake manifold from the intake manifold fittings (see Removing the intake manifold).

Remove the cooling system radiator complete with fans (see Removing the Chevrolet Lanos radiator).

Disconnect the expansion tank inlet hose and the heater radiator outlet hose from the coolant pump supply pipe, and the heater supply hose from the tee.

We dismantle the Chevrolet Lanos engine together with the engine wiring harness, without disconnecting the wiring harness pads from the generator, ignition coil, control system sensors located on the engine, adsorber purge and exhaust gas recirculation valves, idle speed regulator and injectors.

Disconnect two blocks of the engine wiring harness from the electronic engine control unit (see Removing the electronic control unit) and one block from the absolute air pressure sensor (see Removing the absolute air pressure sensor in the intake manifold).

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew and remove the piston securing the cover of the block of blocks of the wiring harness blocks ...

Disconnect the three pads of the engine wiring harness from the pads of the wiring harness attached to the bulkhead, and place the engine wiring harness on the engine.

Using the “10” head, unscrew the nut that secures the lugs of the two wires to the “positive” terminal of the storage battery.

Remove the wire ends from the terminal stud ...

... and disconnect the positive wires of the engine harness and the engine compartment mounting block.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the bolt securing the tip of the "mass" wire of the motor wiring harness.

Disconnect the air conditioning compressor wiring harness block.

We dismantle the air conditioner compressor from the engine without interrupting the refrigerant inlet and outlet lines.

Having removed the compressor, we lower it on the tubes and move it away from the engine.

Remove the gearbox (see Removing the gearbox). After removing the gearbox, the engine supports the stop from below.

Disconnecting the fluid supply pipes to the glass washer nozzles and unscrewing the four bolts securing the hood to the hinges ...

The engine has two eyelets for securing the hoist chain.

We fasten the chain of the lifting device to the eyelets. After tightening the chain of the lifting device, we remove the stop from under the engine. Remove the right support of the power unit. Before removing the engine from the engine compartment, it is necessary to check again whether all hoses, pipes, wires are disconnected from the engine and laid to the side.

We take out the engine from the engine compartment.

Install the engine on the car in reverse order.

In our lives, almost every driver is also a car mechanic, since periodically the "iron horse" needs to fix some small problems, or if there is a big breakdown, the driver will always be able to find out the cause of the breakdown. One and the most important thing to do for your friend on wheels is to do preventative maintenance.

Now on the road you can see some of the drivers behind the wheel of the well-known Chevrolet Lanos car and, of course, like any other car, it periodically needs technical inspection or do-it-yourself repairs.

Before it comes to a full-fledged car repair, it is advisable to carry out preventive maintenance of the car.

Preventive maintenance includes:

• Annual replacement of the oil filter and engine oil or after every ten thousand kilometers;
• Replacing the fuel and air filter at the same frequency;
• Checking the rear hub bearings (checking the clearance);
• After the mileage is 40 thousand kilometers, the coolant is replaced (before such a moment, the check is carried out regularly);
• Every two years you need to replace the spark plugs and timing belt;
• Checking and replacing brake fluid after running 20 thousand kilometers;
• Regular diagnostics of the condition of the engine, suspension, wheel alignment, brake system (brake discs) and relative instruments.

Of course, if you are not confident in yourself, then it is not worth doing preventive maintenance yourself.

One of the most frequently asked questions from drivers is the question of whether when to put your winter tire, which is also considered important. With all this, repairing a Chevrolet Lanos with your own hands will not be difficult, since today you can get good advice and experience.

Read about repairing a Chevrolet Niva with your own hands.
You may be interested in reading about the repair of Daewoo Nexia in another article.
Microwave repair at home:

• If driver's door won't open, this indicates a broken handle or lock. To do this, it is worth removing and checking the handle and door lock. If it is not working properly, then you will need to install a new one.

• At the appearance of a knock in the back of the car it is worth checking the rubber mount of the muffler to see if they are worn out. To replace the rubber mount of the muffler, you need to disconnect the mount itself from the bracket of the exhaust system, then remove the mount from the car body and replace it with a new mount for the muffler.

• If under the front of the car drops of oil appeared or the front of the engine is splashed with oil, this indicates that it is time to check the crankshaft oil seal, it may have broken. When replacing the oil seal, do not forget to adjust the tension of the belts.

• Hum when speed increases, play in the wheel, uneven wear of rubber, changes in noise when changing movement, all this indicates that the bearing of the front wheel hub of the front wheel is not working properly. When replacing bearings, be sure to check the wheel alignment angles.

• Overheating of the car, car engine boiling and an increase in noise under the hood, this is what indicates a breakdown of the water pump. After replacing the water pump, the main thing is not to forget to put on the timing belt.

If you are not an experienced auto technician, it is better to first carry out repairs over engines with the help of car services, if possible, it is desirable to learn from specialists.

In the future, if you are sure that you can accurately determine the engine breakdown, then the repair can be carried out on your own.

Any repair in a Chevrolet Lanos car, both inside the cabin and inside the four-wheeled friend itself, is a sheer pleasure, the main thing is to have the right approach and mind to everything, since do-it-yourself repairs are not a problem, because there are no faulty parts, unless of course they are final not worn out or cannot be repaired.

To save the manual to your computer, right-click on the link and select "Save Link As ..".

This section publishes copyright materials on the maintenance and repair of passenger cars of the brand Daewoo... On the pages of our blog you can find useful information on such models as - Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Matiz (Daewoo Matiz), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Daewoo Nubira (Daewoo Nubira)... In the future, the list of presented models will increase. All repair articles are supported by detailed photographs of the work done. I hope that the information you received on the pages of the blog will be useful for you and will help you to repair the car with your own hands.

At the moment, the section has already collected quite a few articles. for the repair and maintenance of cars Daewoo Lanos, Daewoo Nexia, Daewoo Matiz, Daewoo Sens, Daewoo Nubira... More precisely, several pages of thematic articles, leafing through which it is difficult to find the material you need at the moment.To avoid such difficulties and facilitate your search, I suggest you take a look at the section site `s map, where a list of all articles is presented in a more simplified and accessible form.

The photo below shows a picture typical for 10 year old Lanos and Senses - leak of the gas tank (fuel tank) in the area of ​​the right front corner... In this place, the designer installed a protective visor, which should protect the tank from physical damage. Very prudent, but not far-sighted. Since this decision has significantly reduced the life of the gas tank. On the one hand, the visor protects, and on the other, greedily picks up dirt, salt, moisture from the roads. This dirt and moisture has been doing its dirty work unnoticed and unhurriedly for several years! Namely, it destroys the metal.

The unchanging bestseller of the first ten years of the new century, the only sane competitor to AvtoVAZ, simple and reliable, inexpensive and moderately attractive. These are Chevrolet Lanos, Daewoo Lanos, ZAZ Chanse, Opel Cadet, after all. You can call it whatever you like, it won't make it worse. Better too. The star of European consumers with modest bank accounts, the Opel Cadet, shared the lead in sales, probably only with the Golf and Ford Escorts. It was a long time ago, in the 80s, nevertheless, the design of the car did not remain unclaimed after being discontinued.

In the photo, Chevrolet Lanos is an excellent competitor of VAZ and a bestseller of the early 2000s.

If we discard some factors that are irrelevant for our conditions, influencing the commercial success of the car, such as climate control and power windows, then the most replicated car of the late XX and early decades of the XXI century remains the Opel Cadet. It can be masked, glued to the lattice with butterflies from Chevrolet or shells from Daewoo, it will still remain the same Cadet who conquered Europe in the 70s and 80s. There is nothing wrong with that, because each product has its own buyer, but as it turned out, not everyone is delighted with VAZ cars. As a sensible alternative and as a car for every day, Lanos came to the court. At first, it was produced in Poland at the FSO plant, and after the company went bankrupt, Lanos were completely assembled in Ukraine at the Ilyichevsk car assembly plant. After that, the production was moved to AvtoZAZ.

And the Chevrolet Lanos appeared on our roads thanks to the General Motors Corporation. When Opel became part of the alliance, the company's managers suddenly remembered that the technical documentation for the Cadet was gathering dust on the shelves, which was immediately transferred to the Daewoo subsidiary in Korea. This is how the Daewoo Nexia appeared, in fact a clone of Opel, and then, in the late 90s, Lanos began to be sold as a more modern and environmentally friendly model.

Video review-acquaintance with the Chevrolet Lanos

GM Daweoo engineers are great, because they managed to create a completely modern car from an old Opel, which is still being successfully sold and is not going to lose its relevance. Lanos lacks stars from the sky, but for his money he does everything that is required from a reliable and unassuming car for the city. And like every normal technique, it needs repairs from time to time.

Routine repairs and scheduled maintenance, along with diagnostics, is the key to a long life of the car. Engines with an eight-valve block head installed on Lanos are quite reliable, but with high-quality care. First of all, you need to take into account the quality of the operating materials. They also affect the engine resource. The car power system includes two fuel filters - a fine filter and a coarse fuel filter. Replacing filters is not a panacea for clogged nozzles, but it should be done as often as possible. Moreover, the fine filter is located quite conveniently. It can be found under the hood near the brake servo.The plant recommends replacing the fuel filter according to the instructions every 10 thousand km, but it would be useful to play it safe and revise these terms downward.

Lanos were originally assembled at the FSO plant in Poland.

The fact that the fuel filter is clogged will be indicated by incorrect engine operation, poor mixture, increased noise of the fuel pump. When the first signs of a clogged filter appear, or better after every 5-7 thousand mileage, the filter needs to be changed. It is removed with bare hands, without the help of tools at all. The only thing to do is to depressurize the system before replacing it. You will have to tinker with the coarse filter, since it is installed in the same housing with the gas pump in the fuel tank. In general, it is worth tying some work to the recommended maintenance and repair times. Then not a single trifle will be missed, and the car will be well-groomed.

For example, when replacing a fuel filter, it is usually time for an oil change. The plant also indicates 10-12 thousand in the regulations, but if the mileage is reduced to 7, it will not get any worse. And you need to try to adhere to the recommendations for the brand of oil - 5W30 GM, this is what your Lanos wants. The same applies to replacing the oil filter, spark plugs and air filter. The disease of all Lanos, regardless of the place of assembly, the owners unanimously call a noisy gearbox. Oddly enough, if you shorten the procedure for replacing the transmission in the checkpoint and in the main gear, then the noise disappears completely or becomes much weaker. Moreover, the noise acts only on the nerves, and practically does not affect the operation of the box. Therefore, you should not wait for 60 thousand mileage, and if you replace the transmission earlier, the box will thankfully keep quiet until the next replacement. Also, sometimes the plastic bushings of the wings require replacement when the gears are not clearly engaged.

Many of these malfunctions can be called characteristic only when the owner forgets where the odometer is, and then sincerely wonders why the cylinder head timing belt suddenly broke. Of course, it will break if it reaches 80 thousand without replacement. This is not as expensive a consumable as the drive belts of the generator, hydraulic booster and air conditioning compressor, if installed. As for the engine, it is completely reliable, the only frequent trouble is leaks in the cooling system radiator and stove radiator. Here medicine is powerless, and in the event of a leak, it is better to look for a Korean radiator. He will last much longer than his own.

The front suspension, Lanos chassis are quite reliable, but in some cars crunches of wheel bearings were observed after 25 thousand run. The original bearing costs about 1,800 rubles, but those who want to save money can use eight bearings, which are a couple of hundred cheaper. Not the fact that they go out longer, but the option to save on four bearings for almost a thousand of many forces them to do just that. How leaking shock absorbers are characteristic of Lanos is a big question, because on our roads and not so will flow. Fortunately, if you have free funds, you can find other, more rigid shock absorbers, and if you don’t mind, then by installing adjustable struts, reliability will be added to the comfort of movement on any roads. The steering rack will require major repairs no earlier than 50 thousand mileage, and with appropriate care, many generally forget about its existence.

Lanos hodovka is quite reliable, although in isolated cases, after 25 thousand km of run, a crunch of wheel bearings was noticed

The braking system of a car is quite reliable, because its structure is extremely simple.If you do not forget to change every 30-40 thousand brake fluid, and the book "Repair and Operation Manual" speaks about changing the fluid in the clutch drive, then except for the brake pads nothing will overshadow the braking. But you need to choose the right pads. Rear drum brakes produce friction linings for 70 thousand, the front should be treated more carefully. Stock front pads will withstand 35-40 thousand if working conditions are close to normal and the calipers with working cylinders are in good condition. But if the driver preaches an active driving style, as far as Lanos can allow, then it is better to put the pads harder, in which the percentage of metal content is higher. They are noisier when braking, but more tenacious and do not wear out as quickly. But they eat up the brake disc faster. It can't be helped, we live in a world of compromise.

Many people point to a good factory anti-corrosion treatment. In general, the plant gives a 6-year guarantee for the protection of the body against rust. So far, there has been no reason not to trust the manufacturer, but additional processing never hurts. Moreover, if Lanos is used and its history is little known. The price of a full-fledged anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom with proprietary means and using the correct technology will be no more than 15 thousand, but for this money you can forever forget about the word "rust", unless the body is damaged in an accident. By the way, the plumage of the car and body parts are by no means cheap.

Replacing the hood will cost 20-22 thousand rubles, the cost of the front fender is about 7 thousand, and the bumper assembly will pull 20-21 thousand. An extra reason to do straightening work with your own hands, but it is better, of course, not to allow this. By the way, there is a very effective way to remove small dents. It works 90%, and it consists in the following: a small dent is heated with a household hairdryer to a decent temperature, after which it is sharply cooled with an air freshener spray from a can. The dent should shoot into place. It is enough to look at the price list of any body service station, and you already understand that you have saved on oil changes.

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Posted by aac23 on 12.24.2016 10:03 in Engine

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All-Ukrainian club LANOS KLAN was created with the aim of establishing communication between motorists, organizing a club community for thematic communication, meetings and other events.

All-Ukrainian club LANOS KLAN is a club that has united absolutely different people from absolutely different parts of Ukraine, and even Russia and Belarus.

All-Ukrainian club LANOS KLAN was founded on March 1, 2005 by a small group of people who made a huge contribution to its development.

High mileage is not a sufficient indicator of the need for overhaul, on the other hand, low mileage does not exclude overhaul. The most important metric appears to be the timeliness of routine engine maintenance. With a timely oil and air filter change, as well as with all other necessary maintenance work, the engine will serve reliably for many thousands of kilometers. Conversely, insufficient maintenance can lead to a dramatic reduction in resource. Increased oil consumption indicates worn piston rings or valve guides. Make sure that leaks do not cause increased oil consumption, and only then conclude that the piston rings and guide bushings are unsuitable. To determine the amount of work to be done, measure the compression in the cylinders, or check the tightness of the combustion chamber, for which it is recommended to contact an experienced specialist.

If an increased noise or knocks are heard during engine operation, then the likely cause of them may be the wear of the connecting rod or main bearings.

Unscrew the standard sensor and measure the oil pressure with a pressure gauge, compare the obtained value with that indicated in the manual. If the pressure is low, wear on the thrust bearings or oil pump may be the cause.

Loss of power, “dips” in engine operation, increased noise from the gas distribution mechanism, increased fuel consumption indicate the need for overhaul, especially if all these factors appear at the same time. If making all adjustments does not result in improvement, repair is the most appropriate remedy.

Overhaul consists of restoring engine parts to the condition specified in the technical data for a new engine. When carrying out a major overhaul, the piston rings are replaced, and the cylinder walls are bored to the repair size (or honed).

After repairing the cylinders, the installation of new pistons will be required. The connecting rod and main bearings must also be replaced; if necessary, the crankshaft must be ground until the clearances with the connecting rod and main bearings are restored. As a rule, the valve mechanism does not change, since its condition at the time of repair is usually quite satisfactory. During an engine overhaul, such units as the carburetor, ignition distributor, starter and generator are also repaired. As a result, the engine should have the qualities of an almost new unit and will operate reliably for a long time.

Before starting an engine overhaul, review the appropriate procedures to get an impression of the scope and requirements of the work ahead. Overhaul is simple, but time-consuming. Roughly it will take at least two weeks, especially if you have to contact a specialized workshop to repair and restore parts (grinding, boring). Check the availability of spare parts and arrange for the necessary special tools and equipment to be purchased in advance.

Almost all work can be done with a standard set of tools, although accurate measuring instruments will be needed to check and determine the suitability of certain parts. Often, the condition of parts is checked in specialized workshops, in which they receive recommendations for replacing or restoring parts.

You should contact car service workshops only after completely disassembling the engine and checking all parts, especially the cylinder block, in order to decide which maintenance and repair operations will be performed in the workshops.

Since the condition of the cylinder block is a determining factor in deciding whether to repair it further or to buy a new repair cylinder block, it is necessary to buy spare parts or carry out machining operations on parts only after thoroughly checking its technical condition. As a rule of thumb, the true cost of a repair is time, so you don't have to pay to install worn or repair parts.

In conclusion, we note that the assembly of any units should be carried out with great care in a clean room to avoid further failures of the repaired engine.

The manufacturer recommends removing the power unit (engine with clutch and gearbox) downwards. This requires a lift to raise the front of the vehicle higher.

In garage conditions, in the absence of a lift, you will need a jack, as well as strong and high enough supports to install the raised front of the car on them, which will make it possible to remove the engine from under it, lowered to the garage floor.

The engine is very heavy, so we recommend removing it with an assistant using special equipment (lift, telpher, etc.)

When removing and installing a power unit assembly with a large mass, use only fully serviceable lifting mechanisms designed for the appropriate load, and especially carefully monitor the correctness and reliability of the connection of cables, traverses, etc. to the transport eyes of the engine.

1. For convenience, remove the hood (see. "Removing and installing the hood", p. 250) 2. Decrease the pressure in the power supply system (see "Decreasing the pressure in the power supply system", p.120) 3. Remove the battery ( see "Removing and installing the battery" p. 208)

4. Remove the right engine mudguard (see "Removing and installing engine mudguards", page 75) 5. Drain the cooling system (see "Replacing the coolant", page 67) 6. If you remove the engine for repair, drain oil from the oil sump (see.

"Changing the engine oil and oil filter", p. 48)

7. Remove the A / C compressor drive belt (see "Replacing the A / C compressor drive belt", page 64)

8. Remove the front wheel drives (see "Removing and installing front wheel drives", p. 159)

The front wheel drives do not need to be disconnected from the transmission. In this case, secure the drives disconnected from the hubs to the power unit in any way possible (for example, tie with a wire).

9. Remove the front pipe of the exhaust system (see "Replacing the front pipe", page 116)

10. Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the bracket (see "Replacing the clutch slave cylinder", page 137) without disconnecting the hose from it, and move the cylinder to the side.

11. For convenience, remove the air filter (see "Removing and installing the air filter, intake silencer and air duct", p. 120) ...

12.… use side cutters (or cut with a knife) on the cable-to-hose clamp and move the cable harness aside so that it does not interfere with your work.

The clamp is disposable. When reassembling, be sure to replace it with a new clamp so that the wire is always secured.

13. Disconnect the oxygen concentration sensor harness connector,

14. Disconnect from thermostat.

15. . and radiator supply hose of the cooling system and remove it.

16. Disconnect the outlet hose from the water distribution pipe and radiator in the same way, and then remove it.

17. Loosen the fluid hose clamp ...

eighteen. . and remove the hose from the expansion tank connection.

19. Loosen the fastening clamps.

20.… and disconnect the heater hoses from the heater radiator pipes on the front panel.

21. Loosen a bolt of a terminal clamp of a drive of a control mechanism of a gear shifting and disconnect a rod and a tip of a gear lever.

22. Disconnect the engine wiring harness pads from the idle speed control.

23. ... and the throttle position sensor.

24. Disconnect the hose to the absolute pressure sensor from the branch pipes of the throttle assembly ...

25. ... coolant supply and drain hoses.

26. ... as well as the canister purge hose.

27. Disconnect the throttle actuator cable tip from the throttle assembly sector.

28.. and from the bracket on the intake pipe, the cable sheath (see "Adjusting and replacing the throttle cable", p. 128)

29. Disconnect the engine harness pads from the speed sensor.

30.… and a reversing light switch.

31. Disconnect the harness block from the sensor 1 of the coolant temperature gauge and disconnect the holder 2 of the engine harness from the bracket.

32. Disconnect the injector harness blocks from the injectors and move the injector harness to the side.

33. Disconnect the harness connectors from the ECT sensor.

34.. EGR solenoid valve.

36. and from the air conditioning compressor clutch.

37. Remove the drive belt for the generator and power steering pump (see "Replacing the drive belt for the generator and power steering pump" p. 63)

38.Remove the three bolts securing the power steering pump pulley, keeping the pulley from turning with a screwdriver.

40. While holding the union from turning, use the second wrench to unscrew the nut of the power steering system pipe.

41.. and remove the pipeline from the power steering pump union.

The pipe connection to the pump is sealed with a rubber ring, which must be replaced every time it is disconnected.

42. Squeeze the bent tendrils of the clamp with pliers, move the clamp towards the pump ...

43.. and remove the hose from the power steering pump tube.

Take measures against the leakage of hydraulic fluid from the pipelines by plugging them, for example, with wooden plugs.

44. Remove the clamp from the tube.

45. Disconnect the generator harness connector.

46. ​​Unscrew the nut securing the wire to the "BAT" terminal of the generator.

47. ... and remove the wire from the output.

48. Unscrew the nuts securing the wires to the starter terminals and remove the wires from the terminals.

49. Disconnect the harness connector from the oil pressure drop warning light sensor.

50. Disconnect the CKP sensor harness connector.

51. Disconnect the drain hose from the fuel pressure regulator union.

52.,… the discharge hose from the fuel filter, squeezing the locking elements of the hose ends.

The need to disconnect the hose from the fuel filter, and not from the rail, is due to the fact that to disconnect it from the rail, a special tool is required (see "Removing and installing the fuel rail", p. 125), which is advisable only when replacing the hose.

53. Loosen the clamp of the vacuum brake booster hose by squeezing its bent ears with pliers, slide the clamp along the hose ...

54.. and disconnect the hose from the inlet pipe.

55. Remove the two lower bolts securing the A / C compressor to the bracket on the engine.

56.… then the two upper bolts and take the compressor aside without disconnecting the piping from it.

57. Attach the lifting straps to the front.

58.. and rear transport eyes, tighten straps to relieve power unit mounts.

59.. and install a secure support under the gearbox housing for belay.

60. Remove the two bolts securing the right power unit suspension support bracket to the support.

61.. three bolts securing the bracket to the engine and remove the bracket.

62. Remove the two bolts securing the left support of the power unit suspension to the side member of the body.

63. Unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the rear suspension support of the power unit to the bracket on the gearbox and remove the bolt from the holes in the support and bracket.

64. Check again that all wires, hoses and attachments are disconnected from the engine.

65. Raise the power unit slightly, remove the support from under the gearbox and lower the power unit down to the floor.

66. Suspend the front part of the car (lift the car on a lift) to a height sufficient to remove the power unit from under the car, and place reliable supports under the body.

67. Install the engine and all removed assemblies and parts in the reverse order to removal, taking into account the following:

- before installing the power unit, clean the threaded holes of fastening its supports from rust with a tap;
- apply a fixing compound to the threads of the support bolts;
- it is more convenient to fix the power unit supports in the following order: back, front left, front right;
- be sure to replace the front pipe gaskets with new ones;
- when connecting wires and pipelines, carefully monitor their correct location in the engine compartment, do not allow contact with heating and moving elements of the power unit.

After installing the engine, proceed as follows.

1. Fill with oil (see "Changing the engine oil and oil filter", page 48) 2. Fill with coolant (see "Replacing the coolant", page 67) 3.Adjust the tension of the alternator and power steering pump drive belt (see "Checking and adjusting the tension of the alternator and power steering pump drive belt", p. 47), as well as the air conditioning compressor drive belt (see.

"Checking and adjusting the tension of the air conditioning compressor drive belt", p. 48).

4. Adjust the throttle valve actuator (see "Adjusting and replacing the throttle valve actuator", page 128).

5. Adjust the gearshift control drive (see "Adjusting the gearbox control drive", page 158) 6. Start the engine and check for fuel, oil and coolant leaks. Check oil pressure. Listen to the engine, it should run smoothly, without extraneous noise and knocking.

Repair of the Chevrolet Lanos 1.5 A15SMS engine can be major, or it can be partial. The type of repair is determined only after diagnostics by a minder. Partial overhaul of the Chevrolet Lanos 1.5 A15SMS engine may include replacing the GBK gasket, replacing valve stem seals, replacing valves. Partial repairs usually do not include removing the engine block, boring, grinding, liner, etc.

You should not decide to repair the Chevrolet Lanos 1.5 A15SMS engine yourself. People often come to the service who say - “my neighbor told me that I need to change the cylinder head gasket and everything will go away”. Of course, we can listen to the client and go to a meeting, but if this does not help in solving the problem, all responsibility will fall on the client, and not on the service minder who diagnoses and is responsible for him.

Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
STO on Courage, 748-30-20, from 10 to 20, no days off.

WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33

When to repair the engine:
- increased consumption of engine oil in the internal combustion engine;
- smoke from the exhaust pipe;
- carbon deposits on spark plugs;
- uneven engine idling;
- increased consumption of gasoline;
- significant drop in engine power;
- knocking in the engine or extraneous sounds that were not there before;
- low oil pressure in the engine;
- the engine is overheated.

Warranty for work- 6 months no mileage limit.

Engine diagnostics during repair with us is free!

The final cost of an engine repair depends on many factors. Often, people disassemble the engine themselves, trying to make engine repairs with their own hands. When it comes to the understanding that they cannot assemble it themselves, they bring us a disassembled engine. When you call the service station, please specify the current condition of the engine and you will be told the exact cost of its repair.

If the car is not in motion, we can send a tow truck.