Do-it-yourself ant motor scooter engine repair

It's no secret that the engineers of the Tula plant have created equipment with which an ordinary owner has to feel like a mechanic. So to this day, having found another problem, the owner of the Ant has to pick up the tool, remembering the would-be engineers. One of the main problems is the motor scooter Ant, which is repaired in most cases of breakdowns.

However, not only the engine can make the motorcycle enthusiast visually see all the components of his motorcycle. The most common problem is dynastarter malfunctions... It, the engineers of the Tula plant, installed it in Ant, instead of the usual alternator.

Why is it so important? If you notice a red light on the dashboard while the moped is running, then you are running out of charging. This is because the generator is not producing alternating current. To begin with, in such a situation, it is necessary to check the integrity of the wires connected to the dynastarter and the relay-regulator. If everything is in order, then the problem lies directly with the dynastarter. It can have three main causes of problems:

• difficulty in the operation of the rotor (dirt or dust accumulation in the collector);
• hanging or wear of the brushes;
• violation of the integrity of electrical equipment.

Since in most cases the work of the dynastarter is difficult due to contamination of the collector, it is worth carrying out a simple disassembly according to the instructions described in the moped's manual. The main rules when working are neatness and cleanliness. After disassembly, be sure to thoroughly rinse all parts in gasoline and lubricate rubbing parts and in no case throw parts away.

Unlike the dynastarter, it is difficult to repair the motor scooter Ant with your own hands according to the operation book. Therefore, it is worth referring to the advice of experienced motorcycle owners. Most often, the engine has to be disassembled in case of malfunctions of the clutch mechanisms, the operation of the gearbox, as well as wear of the crankshaft, bearings or oil seals. The most important rule is not to be afraid to disassemble the engine yourself. Using these instructions, disassembly and assembly of the motor scooter Ant will not be difficult.

So, the procedure for disassembling the engine:

First, prepare your workplace. If you want to achieve correct and trouble-free operation, keep all parts clean and tidy. Remember and complete the disassembly procedure.

How to assemble the engine of the Ant motor scooter can be seen in more detail in the visual video at the end of the article. The essence of the assembly is in the reverse order, but it is important to tighten the parts with a certain effort and synchronize the parts with the marks. Under no circumstances should you assemble an engine without detailed instructions written by the manufacturer.

With frequent breakdowns, the owners think about what kind of engine can be put on the Ant motor scooter. Instead of a native motor, you can use chinese analog motors... Since the Ant has many copies in Asian countries, replacing the engine can be a great option to save money in the event of irreversible damage. True, you will have to make the fasteners yourself and, in some cases, remake the bridge for the left chain location. This is not very difficult, given that the Tula plant provided for the possibility of rearranging the bridge.

Almost before leaving for permanent residence in another collective farm, one old acquaintance, whom I had not seen for 15 years, turned to me and asked me to turn off the engine of his "Ant". To be honest, I did not have much desire to contact this Soviet rattler, to say the least ... But after thinking and playing in my head the situation that I would have to sit in a new place for a while without my favorite job, I agreed and immediately proceeded to repair it.

Especially, I will not delve into the essence of the disassembly within the framework of this article - I will outline only the main points and, based on my experience, I will try to describe the most common malfunctions and errors during repair.

The engine had the following symptoms before it was sent for repairs:

1. Bad start
2. Oil leak
3. Weak cravings
4. Increased noise during operation
5. The winder did not return to its place

1. Depressurization of the crank chamber, as well as wear of the oil seals
2. Poor build
3. Died piston
4. Bearing wear
5. Kickstarter return spring burst

Everything else, including the gearbox and the clutch, did not cause any complaints during operation. However, first things first.

Before a major overhaul, I don't wash the engines - I just drain the oil, pull it off the frame and get to work.

Remove the cylinder head (cylinder head).

The gasket under the cylinder head held well, as evidenced by the absence of oil leaks.

In the upper part of the cylinder, opposite the outlet window, we feel the development with our finger. If it gropes for a well-felt so-called "wave", "step" that is, a drop, then such a cylinder is no longer subject to further operation. It must either be bored to a repair size or buy a new one.

The development is well felt in the place where the piston rings do not reach the end of the cylinder. In the place where the piston rings do not work, the nominal factory size is preserved, and in the place where they work, the metal wears out. That is why a transition is formed at the border of these two sections, which is the greater, the greater the wear of the cylinder.

In my case, as expected - the development was well felt and the cylinder mirror was all in scuffs and scratches.

A bunch of hay, which blocked the flow of cooling air, as for me, did not add to the efficiency of the cooling system ... How is it possible to drive at all.

The piston was burst and, moreover, according to the good old collective farm tradition, it was pretty sandpaper treated. This is indicated by the numerous risks on its surface.

After removing the clutch cover and removing the kickstarter shaft, the reason for the winding lever hanging was found - a return spring that had burst in half.

The motor chain turned out to be stretched, but not critical.

Unbend the lock washer, insert a tin bar or stick under the tooth of the motor transmission sprocket, and unscrew the nut on the crankshaft trunnion (right-hand thread).

Unbend the lock washer, fix the inner clutch drum with a puller, which is a clutch disc with a welded piece of tire, and unscrew the nut (left thread).

We remove the basket from the shaft together with the chain and the sprocket.

We remove the cooling jacket, then, if the engine is not converted to magneto, remove the ignition interrupter cam. We hold the dinostarter rotor by the fan and unscrew the nut. If in this way it is not possible to hold the rotor, we fix the crankshaft with something and unscrew the nut.

We pull off the rotor with a puller. The rotor can be pulled off both with a regular puller and with a homemade one. Depending on the situation, I use both a regular and a homemade one.

We remove the flange on which the stator is planted and carefully inspect the plane of the connector for the interference of "cool handles".

How many I repair "Ants" so much and come across the fact that all kinds of "awesome handles" cover the oil channel with sealant through which the oil flows to the main bearing of the crankshaft and the oil seal.Already tired, honestly - how much can you? Why cover it up then.

It makes no difference to me, but how do you think the bearing and the oil seal should work without lubrication? Marvel at what happens to the main bearing when it runs dry.

Unscrew the bolts and half the crankcase.

Take-away crankshaft - to say that it is worn out means to say nothing ... The gearbox bearings, as well as the indigenous ones, went to the same place - to the crankshaft: to the trash heap. The checkpoint, with the exception of one fork, did not cause any complaints. By the way, the clutch too.

Now the question is: what to do with all this junk? Buy a "plasticine" crankshaft, no one understands who made it and put it into the engine. I was initially against this idea. In general, we found a used engine for a ruble and removed the crankshaft from it. Of course I had to tinker with him. Since his thread was clogged, I turned it around and straightened it with a scraper.

After thread dressing, I checked the crankshaft for runout. In vain I was worried - the beatings of the pins did not exceed one hundredth of a millimeter with a tolerance of three hundred parts. By and large, it would have been necessary to replace the bushing of the upper connecting rod head, but time was running out and the bushing was not very worn out. In all other respects, the crankshaft did not disappoint and this purchase can be safely called successful.

Everything else: CPG, cylinder head, gaskets, oil seals, bearings, motor chain, etc. decided to buy in the store. Although, by and large, the cylinder could be squandered and this will be limited. But the owner did not want to wait, but in vain.

You will learn how to install a new Lifan engine on a Soviet cargo scooter Ant with your own hands from a detailed description, photo and video of replacing the standard T-200 engine with a Lifan 11 l / s ICE. Freight scooter "Muravei" is an excellent technique for running a private household, with its help you can transport goods with a total weight of up to 250 kg. Motor scooters made in the USSR today are often in a deplorable state and require major repairs, replacement of components and assemblies, but original spare parts are difficult to get. As an option, replacing the standard engine "Ant" with a Chinese internal combustion engine Lifan (see photo below) Actually, as Alexei Kochnev did, the author of the presented project.

Recorded from the words of the author.

I got an old motor scooter "Ant", 1981, with a T-200 engine, which did not want to start and work normally. Having suffered with it, it was decided to replace it with the Lifan engine. The choice fell on an 11 strong unit with a torque of 21 rpm, which is one and a half times more than on the native T-200

The installation of the new engine began with the dismantling of the old engine and its subsequent washing, cleaning and bulkheading, so in the future I planned to use it as a gearbox for the new engine.

Materials (edit)

1. motor scooter ant 1981 release
2. lifan engine 11 l / s petrol
3. belt
4. video VAZ
5. shaft
6. pulley 2 pcs
7. slab 10 mm

Tools

1. welding machine
2. LBM (Bulgarian)
3. set of wrenches
4. measuring and locksmith tools
5. drill

Further, the process of replacing the standard T-200 engine of a cargo scooter "Ant" with a Lifan 11 hp Chinese production is presented to your attention.

This is the condition the scooter was in before restoration and repair. The original 11 l / s Lifan engine was purchased.

We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the experience of Evgeny Sinitsin Installing a Lifan engine on an ant cargo scooter.

Constructive criticism is welcome, write your suggestions in the comments.