The topic of Japanese cars and the quality of their workmanship is almost limitless. Today, models from Japan can compete with world-famous German cars.
Of course, more than one industry can do without drawbacks, but buying, for example, a model from Nissan, you don't have to worry about reliability and durability at all - these qualities are always high.
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A fairly popular power unit for some Nissan models is the well-known QG15DE engine, to which there is a lot of space on the network. The motor belongs to a whole series of motors, from QG13DE to QG18DEN.
Nissan QG15DE cannot be called a separate element of the engine series, for its creation was used the base of the more practical QG16DE, which was distinguished by increased consumption. The designers reduced the bore by 2.4 mm and installed a different piston system.
These design improvements have resulted in an increase in compression ratio to 9.9, as well as more economical fuel consumption. At the same time, the power increased, although not so noticeably - 109 hp. at 6000 rpm.
The engine was operated for a short period of time - only 6 years, in the period from 2000 to 2006, while constantly being refined and improved. For example, 2 years after the release of the first unit, the QG15DE engine received a variable valve timing system, and the mechanical throttle valve was also replaced with an electronic one. On the first models, the EGR system was installed, but in 2002 it was removed.
Like other Nissan engines, the QG15DE has an important design flaw - it lacks hydraulic lifters, which means that over time, valve adjustment will be required. Also, a timing chain is installed on these motors with a fairly long operating life, which ranges from 130,000 to 150,000 km.
As mentioned earlier, the QG15DE unit was produced for only 6 years. After that, his place was taken by HR15DE, with more improved technical characteristics and performance indicators.
To understand the capabilities of the engine, you should familiarize yourself with its characteristics in more detail. But it is necessary to clarify right away that this motor was not created in order to register new speed capabilities, the QG15DE engine is ideal for a calm and constant drive.
When choosing a car with a QG15DE engine, you should pay attention to the economical fuel consumption - 8.6 liters per 100 km when driving around the city. A good enough indicator for a working volume of 1498 cm3.
To determine the engine number, for example, when re-registering a car, just look at the right side of the engine block. There is a special area with an embossed number. Very often, the engine number is covered with a special varnish, otherwise a layer of rust may very soon form.
What is the expression of such a concept as the reliability of the power unit? Everything is very simple, it means whether the driver will be able to reach the destination with any sudden breakdown. Not to be confused with service life.
The engine resource was not indicated by the manufacturer, but from the reviews of motorists on the Internet, we can conclude that it is at least 250,000 km. With timely maintenance and non-aggressive driving, it can be extended up to 300,000 km, after which a major overhaul must be carried out.
The QG15DE power unit is absolutely not suitable as a basis for tuning. This motor has an average performance and is designed only for a calm and even ride.
There are the most frequent breakdowns in the QG15DE engine, but with quality and timely maintenance, they can be minimized or avoided.
It is very rare to find a broken timing chain, but a more frequent occurrence is its stretching. Wherein:
There is only one way out of the situation - to replace the timing chain. Now there are many high-quality analogues, the price of which is quite affordable, so there is no need to purchase an original, the resource of which is at least 150,000 km.
The problem is very common, and if the timing chain has nothing to do with it, then you should pay attention to such an element as the throttle valve. The engines, the production of which began in 2002 (Nissan Sunny), were equipped with electronic shutters, the cover of which requires periodic cleaning.
The second reason may be a clogged grid of the gasoline pump. If cleaning it did not help, then most likely the fuel pump itself is out of order. To replace it, the help of service station specialists is not always required, such a procedure is done by hand.
And as the last option - a failed ignition coil.
Most often occurs when operating at reduced speeds. The reason for this whistling is the alternator belt. You can check its integrity directly on the engine; a visual inspection is enough. If there are microcracks or abrasions, the alternator belt together with the rollers should be replaced.
The indicator of a worn-out alternator belt can be a battery discharge lamp. In this case, the belt simply slips around the pulley and the generator does not make the required number of revolutions. When carrying out repairs, you should also check the crankshaft sensor.
They are especially sensitive when starting a ride and when engaging first gear; the car also jerks when accelerating. The problem is not critical, it will quite allow you to get to the house or to the nearest service station, but the solution will require the involvement of an injector setup wizard. Most likely, you need to rewrite the ECU system or see how the main adjusting sensors work. This problem occurs both on models with mechanics and automatic transmissions.
The consequence of a failed catalyst is black smoke from the exhaust pipe (these are not worn oil seals or rings, as well as a malfunction of the lambda probe), and an increase in the CO level. After the appearance of thick black smoke, the catalyst should be replaced immediately.
VIDEO
The cooling system for the QG15DE motor does not have a long service life. For example, replacing the thermostat, after a while you can find drops of coolant, especially in the place where the oil seal of the spark plug well is located.The pump or temperature sensor often fails.
Types of oils for the QG15DE engine are standard: from 5W-20 to 20W-20. It should be remembered that engine oil is a very important component of its proper operation and durability.
In order to maximize the vehicle's operational life, in addition to oil, fill only with fuel with the octane number specified in the operating instructions. For the QG15DE engine, as the manual indicates, this number is at least 95.
List of vehicles with QG15DE engine:
Samsung SM3
Nissan tiida
Nissan Sunny
Nissan Almera N16
Nissan Bluebird Sylphy
1 large oil consumption - for me it was 0.5 liters per thousand km.
2 engine sluggishness (in my opinion)
It was decided to replace the valve stem seals and install a new set of piston rings.
The following parts were ordered:
Rings 12033-5M370 Nissan 2 188,32 Cylinder head gasket Reinz 61-33130-00 761,00 Oil caps Corteco 12015361 17X29.83 = 507,11 Crankshaft oil seal front Nissan 13510-V720A 200,38
Valve cover gasket Nissan 13271-4M501 58,69 Valve cover gasket Nissan 13270-AU005 415,36
For every fireman ordered:
Valve retainer Nissan 13210-4F100 5x10.38 =51,90
Camshaft bolt 6 16 13058-53Y00 58,04
Connecting rod bolt 12109-77A00 64,52
Connecting rod nut 12112-42L00 2x40.85 = 81,70
Antifreeze 10 l. 700
Oil 5L. 1900
Oil filter 200
Sealant 200
Dis. fuel 3l. 85
Valve lapping paste 150
Engine cleaner spray 150
torque wrench from 19 to 110 Nm. 1600
the head with a hexagon by 10 (as for the head of the Vaz 10) 150
valve drying tool 150
piston ring compression tool 150
TOTAL: 9822,02
On Friday, I washed the car, drove it into the garage at work, and borrowed a working vehicle (no wheels in any way!).
All work was carried out in one person and with two hands (except for removing the head) began on Friday after work, drained antifreeze, oil. He removed the ground terminal, crankcase protection, coils, candles, valve cover, a pipe with a mass air flow sensor, unfastened all the connectors (having previously photographed it on the phone to know what it was). I dropped the division in the gas tank, removed two hoses from the throttle valve and plugged the incoming one with a candle so that gasoline would not flow.
He took off the right front wheel, tightened two nuts on one of the studs, put the 5th gear and set the TDC of the 1st cylinder with a key to 22, for fidelity, unscrewed the radio antenna and inserted it into the well of the 1st cylinder.
He took off the side cover of the head, measured the output of the chain tensioner rod and was taken aback by 16mm.
Also found a torn back cushion dvmgatel.
I fixed the chain with an elastic band with hooks on the hood cover.
If you follow the manuals, then the intake camshaft gear (I have variable valve timing) before dismantling must be moved to the extreme position and fixed with a 2.5 mm stopper, racked my brains for a long time, but after reading other reports I unscrewed it like this. He also unscrewed the exhaust camshaft gear, locking it with a 22 key.
We unscrew the camshaft necks in accordance with the manual, and in order to put them back as it grew, we photograph the location.
I put all the camshafts in the valve cover and went home at night it started raining, and my friend's garage (in which all the action took place) has an unsealed roof and since Saturday morning I found a small puddle of water in the valve cover. But everything worked out for the night, the camshaft necks did not have time to rust, and in the morning he wiped everything, abundantly oiled it and put it in a dry, safe place in the garage.
On Friday night I urgently ordered:
Camshaft timing chain Nissan 13028-4M51A 2 789,34
Exhaust camshaft gear Nissan 13024-4M510 971,90
Crankshaft crankshaft gear wheel Nissan13021-4M501 363,94
O-ring Nissan 21049-4M500 105,37
O-ring Nissan 15066-5E510 87,91
Engine mount rear Nissan 11320-4M400 1 538,18
O-ring Nissan 21049-4M510 104,86
O-ring Nissan 15066-5E510 87,98
TOTAL: 6050,00
On the good, it was necessary to order the intake gear and the chain tensioner, but the gear has a price tag (horse) approximately equal to the budget of the entire repair approx. 13t.r., and forgot to order the tensioner (he of course got used to it a little, but he won't be scared to walk).
Until the spare parts come to lose time, I did not continue to disassemble the engine.
I took plastic bags at home, took out the valve adjusting washers (I have them in the form of a glass), wrote down where I took the washer and put it in a separate bag with a note.
He took off the ski, unscrewed two bolts with exhaust springs and a catalyst from the block (two bolts).
He unscrewed the two supporting struts of the intake manifold, removed all the remaining chips from the sensors and the generator.
He called a friend and threw off his head together, it’s not hard to lift one really without problems, but the branch pipes of the braid wires get in the way so that without a partner this moment can’t be done (he took off his head assembled with an intake manifold and a catalyst).
We unscrew the pallet, insert a knife between the pallet and the block and cut off the sealant around the perimeter, this is a dreary business.
We unscrew the nuts of the connecting rods of the 2nd and 3rd cylinders (they are in BDC) and gently push up with the hammer handle. After removing the pistons, we connect the connecting rods so as not to lose or confuse the liners. We take off the old rings and start scrubbing them. Soft meth helped a lot in this matter. brush for a screwdriver (brushes are different here you need to carefully try if the piston does not scratch then go), and clean the grooves from carbon deposits with a piece of an old ring (the old-fashioned way).
The condition of the cylinders is good there are no steps at TDC at all (to the touch), the hon is visible. With the rings, the situation was worse; the compression gap was approx.0.5 mm., The oil scraper valves were coked and their stroke was minimal, the gap of the new rings was within the normal range closer to the minimum value.
After washing, the piston is abundantly lubricated with oil, we put new rings according to the manual, tighten it with a mandrel and install it in the cylinder (having previously liberally anointed with oil).
On the connecting rod, so as not to be confused, the cylinder numbers are knocked out on the upper and lower parts, directed towards the passenger compartment. He tightened the connecting rods with a torque wrench at first 15 Nm., And then turned it 40 degrees (with a marker I marked the head at 20 degrees).
Putting back the pistons of the 2nd and 3rd cylinders, we turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the pistons of the 1st and 4th cylinders are in BDC, and we perform the same manipulations with the pistons.
Then he took up his head. there was too little space in the garage, he put his head on a work vehicle and took him to work.
He was drying the head on the 1st cylinder so as not to confuse anything (he used a tool to dry the head of a VAZ 2112 16-valve). The condition of the exhaust valves is deplorable, again, helped by a screwdriver only with a small rigid nozzle. We clean each valve, rub it lightly only so that a matte silver ring appears on the valve, clean the chamber behind the seat from carbon deposits. We dismantle the old valve stem seals and install new ones (set the head to 10 just rests against the metal part of the cap). The rubber part of the old caps was almost as soft as on the new ones, but the diameter of the hole in which the valve moves is almost 1mm larger.
The chain and the remaining parts arrived by the weekend of next week, the head was ready for installation and covered with a rag, the pistons were already in place.
I put in a new rear engine mount and put back the ski. We remove the drive belts of the kondeya and the pump (after installing the 1st and 4th pistons, we set the 1st piston to TDC), the right engine mount, both tensioners, the crankshaft pulley (stopped the crankshaft for unscrewing with a wooden block).
We unscrew the side cover - it is very inconvenient, it is advisable to calculate how many bolts it holds and where they are located before removing it (there were cases when the cover broke for a reason - we did not see all the bolts). Like the pallet, the lid is held on to the native hemorrhoids, ugh, I wanted to say the sealant, carefully cut off with a clerical knife.
Accordingly, the pallet, both side covers and the block seats for them, are cleaned of sealant and degreased, we change the gaskets, the knee star, the crankshaft oil seal, we put the chain according to the marks.Although it is written in the manual that the chain does not come off if there is a side cover and it seems like there is some kind of influx on the side cover, he did not risk it and fixed it with rubber bands with hooks.
Ordered by mistake twice O-ring Nissan 15066-5E510 87,98
and put both gaskets, it seems like one hole is not used and is plugged with a side cover, but everything is more reliable.
We apply the sealant to the side cover (along the trajectory indicated in the manual) and screw back our favorite cover.
We put on belt tensioners, belts, a pillow, unscrew the ski. Apply sealant to the pallet (thickness, sealant trajectory, bolt tightening order and torques - manual) and screw it into place. We put the ski in place.
We put the cylinder head gasket on the cleaned surface of the block and call a friend's help to mount the head in its rightful place. We stretch out the head (sequence, moments - manual. Bolts left the old ones, turn at an angle like connecting rods).
We wash the tensioner with gasoline and put it back. We put valve washers, camshafts, camshaft gears (attention to the risks of camshafts and chains) and lubricate everything with abundant oil.
Apply sealant and screw on the side cover of the head. We change the gaskets of the valve cover, not forgetting to drip with sealant, we screw the valve cover in the right places.
We connect back all the pipes, fuel and air hoses, chips, candles, coils, connect the sensors from the bottom, from the top, check the integrity of the seals ... ...
And on this the second weekend ended (it was not too late to start, and the sealant probably did not gain the necessary strength) Monday began and terrible torment was twisted or still forgot some tensioner bolt, camshaft gear nuts ....
In the evening I put on the oil filter, fill in oil, antifreeze, turn the engine without candles and here it is the moment X — the mustache of norms started up, drove it up, pulled up my face, pumped antifreeze into the radiator of the stove. I taught the revolutions the next day by pedaling, drove 150 km, the machine became faster, but more than 3 thousand. I do not give revolutions, the oil is kept at the same level there, time will tell.
Hello everyone! The other day I changed the caps, tk. Zhor tortured the oil, from the upper to the lower level the oil leaves at the speed of the fuel tank, that is, about 400 km and there is no 0.5-0.7 liters. By the way, the current smokes at rpm from 5000 - and up to cutoff, and immediately clouds of gray smoke from the chimney ... As you know, the 2 main reasons for zhora are caps and rings, I decided to go from a simpler one. The service asked for this service 8t.r. to work.
Started up immediately, no extraneous noise is present, the engine works as before.
It seems that I have not forgotten anything, if you correct anything or make your suggestions and comments.
Tool used: torque wrenches from 5 to 25 and from 20 to 110 N * m puller msk zhigulevsky The Zhigulevsky rassuharivatl (from which model I don’t know) fits perfectly!
spare parts: MSK Ajusa 57017900
Saved 8t.r.))) I did one, you can catch it in a day. There is nothing to catch without a tool IMHO.
By the way, who can tell you about the double camshaft bracket, what to do with it? Wait until the end dies and change the head in the collection, probably? Why it worked so well is incomprehensible….
And it is strange that such a large development on sprockets and a chain, passed after replacing a chain with sprockets about 15t.km. what's the catch.
Hello everyone! The previous replacement of the caps did not lead to anything, so I decided to change the rings. The procedure is not complicated, for me it’s easier than changing the caps, less petty dreary work in which you can confuse a lot
this is the end of the preparatory work)) there is no need to remove anything else from the top of the attachment
12.further remove the valve cover, set the first piston to TDC how to remove camshafts, sprockets, tensioner, look here so that I don't repeat myself Photo report on replacing MSCs with QG15DE
13. after removing the camshafts, unscrew the cylinder head mounting bolts (10 pieces, a hexagon for 10 and 4 small bolts on the left side), do not forget that you need to find a head with a hexagon for tightening then with a torque wrench
I took off the talya, here whoever wants it, many take it off with their hands, but it was more convenient for me
here you can see scratches of a copper-brass color, this is probably from the reducing additive which he poured
then we clean the valve and take it off next to it, cleaned it with a drill brush, there are such-looking brass-colored small wires, the photo will be below. gently cleaned with a drill, then with a professional 1000, washes very well
do not forget to cover the block and the head from above from dust and debris
the surface of the old gasket with fine sandpaper can be pulled
finished with the head, proceed to the pistons
there is a double metal gasket, when I took off the head I did not immediately pay attention, I took off one, then when I began to pull out the pistons I found the second one, I immediately thought that there was something wrong, most likely they had already climbed into the engine once 2 pieces were worth, and 2 probably because one does not hold and the head behaved due to overheating. but then when I took out a new one it immediately became easier))))
23. We clean the place for the gasket on the block with a fine sandpaper, mine was almost clean, it is desirable that nothing poured into the channels. 24. Apply sealant to the place of the block where there is a step on the left, the manual indicates where and how much to apply, we do as it is written. Do not forget to remove the old sealant
do not forget to turn the crankshaft clockwise back to TDC of the first piston 25. We put the cylinder head, tighten the bolts in several stages, there is a description in the manual 26. We put the camshafts, sprockets and everything else attached in the reverse order, and here is a little Photo-report on replacing MSCs with QG15DE 27. Cut off the old sealant from the oil pan, apply a new one and tighten it. 28. Collecting the rest 29. Fill liquid 30. Do not forget to turn the engine by hand to make sure that the timing is correctly assembled I twisted first by hand, then with a starter (without spark plugs), then put on the connectors on the forces and coils
by the way, do not forget that the removed cylinder head does not need to be tilted and turned over much, otherwise the valve pushers with adjusting washers will fall out, then it will be fun to put it all back together.
Tool used: torque wrenches from 5 to 25 and from 20 to 110 N * m ring compression mandrel
spare parts: Nissan 12111-4M50A Connecting rod bearing 8x134.03r = 1072r Nissan 12033-4M510 Piston ring kit 2 078.61р Nissan 13271-4M501 Valve cover gasket 67,18r Nissan 11044-4M51A Block head gasket 821.88р Nissan 13270-4M500 Valve cover gasket 273,40r
right now I remembered that I forgot to replace the gasket in the valve cover, which is used for ventilation of crankcase gases. though I changed it, or a year or 2 ago, I haven’t completely grown stiff.
drove 170 km, the oil on the dipstick is the same, even after such a flow it seems that it is being added)))) right now, while at work, the car is temporarily frozen. I will write about further mileage and consumption later
if you forgot something or did something wrong, correct it)))
QG15DE engine starting | AK0020 NISSAN SUNNY (NISSAN SUNNY). Year of manufacture: 2003, Body type (vin): FB15 View auto parts for this vehicle:
The Nissan QG15DE engine was developed from the 1.6 liter QG16DE and was intended to replace the GA15DE. In the QG16DE cylinder block, the bore has been reduced from 76 mm to 73.6 mm. Accordingly, other pistons were used, and the compression ratio increased to 9.9. Otherwise, it is the same QG16DE. To reduce the toxicity of the exhaust, the EGR system is used here, and a mechanical throttle valve is also used.
Since 2002, after some update, the engines have received a variable valve timing system on the CVTC intake shaft, an electronic throttle valve, and the EGR valve has been removed.
QG15DE motors were equipped with a timing chain, replacement is carried out approximately every 150 thousand km, sometimes earlier. The QG15DE was not equipped with hydraulic lifters, so the valves need to be adjusted every 40-50 thousand km.
The engine was not produced for too long and for some time, the QG15DE was removed from the hoods of Nissan cars, and was replaced by the newer HR15DE.
The QG16 and QG18 motors are similar in design to the QG15, so their problems are the same: it won't start, high fuel consumption, noise, whistling, etc. Details can be found here.
Your best bet is to buy a QG18DE engine and swap it. Tuning a 1.5 liter vegetable engine is not a good idea. However, if you have nothing to do, you can buy a 4-2-1 exhaust system and do some chip tuning. This will give about 10 hp. and aggressive sound, the rest is superfluous.
Car diagnostics using USB Autoscope
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Message »15 Jul 2018, 08:42
The meticulous client asked for a long time on the phone how much should be condensate in winter in crankcase ventilation tubes. I calmed him down by saying that condensation is possible, within reasonable limits, and invited for diagnostics.
During my work, I was already accustomed not to be surprised at various anomalies, and this motor is no exception. The owner of the car said that he was worried about spontaneous stops motor and swimming rpm. Sometimes loss of power. Vehicle operation usual. And an ice slide constantly appears on the air filter.
After inspections and comprehensive diagnostics of the engine, it became clear that the forced line did not work in the motor. ventilation of crankcase gases. The channel is clogged. Crankcase ventilation on the engine organized by two air lines. In the first line, through the hole a small cross-section with a diameter of 5 mm, there is a constant suction of air from under valve cover through the pressure valve diode. Second line with large diameter works when the throttle valve opens.
The second line took over the entire flow of gases. In the summer, this problem would not be It was. In winter, hot gases cooled sharply in the air duct (the engine is not insulated, but the radiator is not closed), and the resulting trickle of drops gradually rolled onto the air filter, where it froze. The problem arose when drops fell on the MAF sensor (air flow meter) and therefore floated revolutions, and power was lost. I had to tinker with the pipe - the 90-degree knee did not give in to the fast cleanup. The restoration of ventilation eliminated the problem - the client was satisfied. But I understood that we only eliminated the consequence of another problem - the pipe clogged, like a cork, not from scratch. The owner is still waiting for a global purge oil system (the result of mixing different engine oil). But that's a completely different story.
Vladimir Bekrenev, Khabarovsk.
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Stage 1. Remove the sensors and injectors. You do not need to take off a lot; we take out everything on the valve cover + the ignition coils.
Stage 2. Remove the crankcase protection. It is necessary to remove the pallet. To further unscrew the connecting rods. Option 1.Remove the ski with pillows at the bottom + unscrew the exhaust pipe. Option 2. unscrew the pallet like this. Without removal (you need a flexible key with a socket head for 10) Note that then you will have to unscrew the small intake from the inside. He will not let you remove the pallet. You need dexterity and a tool. The first time we filmed everything. That the oil should be drained first, I think there is no need to remind.
Nuances The pallet cannot be removed just like that. He is dead set on a hertmetic. A construction knife into the gap and from all sides with a hammer the wooden handle was tapped. Only there it will be possible to remove it carefully and not bend the pallet. It's okay to bend - easily bends back on a flat board with a hammer.
Step 3: Remove the valve cover. (when installing back, grease the round rubber gasket in the middle of the cover with oil) Remove the side cover covering the camshaft sprockets. Remove the tensioner. Weaken the stars. We remove the right wheel + protection. Insert the key 27 on the crankshaft pulley and set the TDC of the cylinder. To do this, you can unscrew the candle and insert an oil dipstick into the first cylinder (if you look at the headlights of the car, it is the leftmost one). We look at TDC on the dipstick. Remove the chain tensioner. Under the intake camshaft sprocket. We first measure the valve clearances (until we removed the camshafts.) Clearances are normal. Outdoor +8 Inlet 0.2 mm Outlet 0.3 mm Norm.
Nuances Pay attention to the chain. At TDC, the camshaft sprocket marks will become as they should. But the marks on the chain (yellow ones will be in vain) Rotate the crankshaft until the yellow marks coincide with the risks on the camshaft sprockets. You need to twist about 5-12 turns. We got 7-8 times.
How the Japanese under-engineers wanted to cheat the Russian Ivan and how nothing came of it or the nuances of the chain Every turn of the crankshaft. the yellow marks will move relative to the stars. Do not be alarmed. It is just that non-Hyponian engineers used an unbalanced circuit marking circuit. This means that the number of teeth on the camshafts and the crankshaft sprocket is DIFFERENT and is most likely not divisible by the number 2. Therefore, the marks move gradually. We agreed with a friend jokingly that the Japs are morons. It just took a finite amount of time to understand this scheme. And about this in the book, no gu-gu. We do not disassemble the engines. And we are not professionals to know this and guess about everything.
After setting the marks as needed (see Option 1 below), remove the camshaft sprockets and the camshafts themselves. Since the engine subsequently turns
The location of the labels is also 2. Option number 1 99% probability.The yellow mark on the chain is ONE chain link BEFORE (INLET) camshaft sprocket mark. The yellow mark on the chain and at the risk of the CAMSHAFT EXHAUST sprocket matches.
Option 1% The yellow marks on the chain with risks on the camshaft sprockets are the same here and there. But this means that the phase distribution sensor (which is built into the valve cover) does not work for you.
You don't need to blow anywhere. This does not make any sense. All the same, after all the procedures for blowing, fixing and so on (read the book) and aligning the yellow marks with the risks, this will turn over and the yellow mark on the chain will be BEFORE risks on ONE link. (It is not written directly about this in the book, but you can understand it if you think about it.)
Stage 4 It was decided to remove the cylinder head with the intake + throttle assembly and the exhaust manifold and catalyst. Since there is no money for extra pads. Inlet - disconnect only the branch pipe from the air filter. Exhaust (protection can not be removed) - disconnect from the exhaust pipe and from the clips at the edges. antifreeze pipes. (drain antifreeze) Using a 10 hexagon, unscrew the head bolts. We remove the head. An assistant is required - or a heavy one.
Step 5 Loosen the connecting rod bolts. There is an ordinary nut for 12 (and barely twisted) We push the pistons up. Nuances Mark the pistons with a marker. We mark the sides of the pistons with a marker. We mark the rocker arms from the connecting rods with a marker.
NUANCES Fix the chain so that the crankshaft turns, but it doesn’t, so that later you don’t have to suffer with the marks. IT needs to be lowered down a little. then it will disengage.
We look at the piston rings. Compression is normal, but oil-filled. They lay down so that they are not even identified with a finger as protrusions. I even had to pick them out of the grooves because they got used to it. In general, there are simply no masloemnye.
We clean the grooves of the pistons. We rinse. We put TP rings (also Japan by the way). In appearance, the oil is the same. each ring has an upward mark. T (TOP) With this mark towards the top edge of the piston. There is a picture on the package - you can't go wrong. We use a special clamp for pistons from the market for 350 rubles. (for ten) Clamp the pistons and put them back. We fasten the connecting rods using a torque wrench. 200 p. on the market.
Nuances. Tightening torques. You can see it in the book. Use the RUS ENG book which is in PDF (laid out here - even the bolt lengths are indicated there). Other books are full of slag. do not use.
Meanwhile, the assistant washes the pallet, cleans everything he sees of the old gray sealant. I do not know where they get it at the factory, but hard and strong - just too much
We put a new gasket. We put everything back - tighten the head bolts by N * m according to the book.
Nuances when installing a chain. Secure the chain tensioner with wire. Then put it back in place. And pull out the wire and everything will fall into place. Reassemble in reverse order. If anything, read the book and this forum. ask questions.
Conclusions: Our garage amateurs are better than the Japanese temple engineer
The total expenditure of money is 3000 rubles. spare parts Tool 620 р. The devil is not so terrible as he is painted. Time spent 3 full days
Oh yes, 2 thousand km have been covered. Oil does not eat. How long will it take? good luck everyone on replacing the piston rings.
I also use info from Vinogradov, I quote
Replacing the timing chain, sprockets and hydraulic tensioner on the QG engine
THANKS TO USER Andruxa (Tomsk)
Replacing the timing chain, sprockets and hydraulic tensioner on the QG engine. ": March 24, 2008, 21:58:42" it's time to change the chain "check" zadolbal! BOUGHT on existential: stars - 3pcs, chain, tensioner bar, damper bar, crankshaft oil seal (!), By the way, whoever needs it, take the belts right away. in question - tensioner pusher, wear is possible. replacement price on a serves 3-5 thousand. TOAD! decided to do it myself :)
Re: Replacing the timing chain, sprockets and hydraulic tensioner on the QG engine. Reply # 1: March 25, 2008 7:28:05 pm Nissan 13024-4M510 (- must be 2 pieces) Camshaft timing gear 13024-5M000 Camshaft timing gear Nissan 13021-4M501 Crankshaft timing gear Nissan 13028-4M512 (4m511,4m51a, 4m500 etc.) Timing chain Nissan 13091-5M000 Chain tensioner bar Nissan 13085-4M511 Chain damper (upper) Nissan 13085-4M500 Timing chain damper 13085-5M010. as everyone guessed - the first 5 digits are the part number, 2e are probably car models with QG-13,15,16,18 engines. to find the lowest price - you need to punch any car model with these engines, of any production. in short, break through the existential, otherwise the prices there are constantly "walking", sometimes unsuitable)))
Re: Replacing the timing chain, sprockets and hydraulic tensioner on the QG engine. "Reply # 4: May 12, 2008 00:58:22" Collected my car. started, everything is OK!)) what has changed (immediately noticed): 1.the sound of the engine became much quieter 2. Vibration has almost completely decreased when stopping at "D" 3. at a speed of 50 and higher (with a smooth ride), when the throttle is weakened, the car stops twitching, it evenly and clearly reacts to the throttle. I haven’t squeezed much and didn’t heat it up - after all, running in)) conclusion: . did everything right. (WITH)
Work for 3 days, but this is with teas and smoke breaks, scratching turnips and reasoning (we did it together))) but in general: about 6-8 hours for disassembly, about the same for assembly, but this is ideally, with the condition of having all the necessary keys and a second person as assistants, otherwise you will be tortured to jump from the pit and back, support yourself, etc.) )))) but. let's not forget about the fact that the sealant needs to dry, and the manufacturers of this recommend some 4h, some 24h.
Ricco - it's better not to take unconditions yourself.if I didn’t have the conditions and experience of "digging" in imported engines (albeit small) - I WOULD NOT USE)) and if there were 3 rubles extra - the identity did not get dirty))) and finally -3t.r.- this is very pobozheski!
Re: Replacing the timing chain, sprockets and hydraulic tensioner on the QG engine. "Reply # 5: August 11, 2008 18:35:43" Alex_khv on May 25, 2008, 14:33:53 1, crankshaft oil seal necessarily 120-140 rubles orig. 2, belts - as per condition. 3, if it is not possible to unscrew the side cover without removing the pump, then be sure to have a new gasket under the pump! since it is iron-disposable, and a new one costs only 66 rubles 4, valve cover gasket - as of 100-130r MORE: do not miss 4 rubber rings under the side cover! and it is advisable to thoroughly rinse the lid (the breather channels were clogged) at the same time, pay attention to the condition of the engine cushions - you will take a good look at pr. side and 2 on the ski Yes, stock up on the head for 10 with a super-thin wall!
P.S .: According to the user Ricco, there is a ready-made repair kit from AUTOWELT TK-33006. Spoiler: open
Added after 17 days 17 hours 22 minutes 5 seconds: Here is the timing chain replacement report provided by user dimfo: Replacing the chain in the field. Description of the procedure, can someone help. BOTTOM. 1. Drain the oil by twisting the drain plug on the pallet. (Carefully, do not lose the gasket) 2. Disconnect the lower radiator pipe after opening the cap of the radiator and expansion tank. We drain the antifreeze. 3. We remove the ski, first by jacking the box. 4. Remove the automatic transmission cover (from the bottom between the engine and the automatic transmission), two bolts. Loosen the tie bolts on both sides of the engine. 5. Unscrew 12 bolts and two nuts on the pallet. Pry slightly around the perimeter with a screwdriver. You can do without removing the intake pipe. In this case, lowering the pan on the front pipe, unscrew the two oil receiver bolts and remove the pan. (Be careful not to lose the oil receiver gasket.) 6. We put all the bolts and nuts for each part separately, they are all of different lengths, if you mix them up, they may not fit.
ABOVE 7. Remove the coils, unscrew the candles, disconnect the tubes from the valve cover. 8. Remove the valve cover. If the candle wells are oily, definitely kirdyk to the oil seals of the well. They just got jittery for me, apparently the winter start-up with the help of aerosols affects. 9. Unscrew the bolts and nuts of the upper front cover. You can immediately see the state of the tensioner, chains and sprockets, whether it makes sense to disassemble further. If the chain sags noticeably, with the tensioner rod extended to the maximum, and the guides are cut into the sprockets, then the final verdict is changed.
BOTTOM. 10. We fasten the ski in place. 11. Slightly jack up in front of the engine.
ABOVE. 12. Unscrew the front airbag, remove the bracket from the front engine cover.
BOTTOM. 13. We tear off the crankshaft pulley bolt.In the manual they write that it is necessary to fix the flywheel. But in my case, no suitable tool was found. Therefore, I fixed the camshaft with a key for 22 and with an impact screwdriver to the head for 27, tore off the bolt. 14. Remove the pulley. Yes, I completely forgot: of course, you must first remove both belts. 15. Remove the roller tensioner bracket - two bolts. (That would not interfere with removing and installing the front cover.)
Video (click to play).
LIST of materials and tools. 1. Chain - 1 2. Asterisks - 3 3. Sealing rings -3 4. Tensioner - as required. 5. Carbo-Cleaner - 1 6. WD40 - 1 7. Engine oil - 4L. 8. Oil filter - 1 9. Antifreeze - 1L. Topping up. 10. Gasket - sealant - any suitable, I have used, BODY black, 11. Phillips and flat screwdriver. 12. Open-end wrenches - 22 two pieces. 27 - one piece. Heads 10 - thin-walled, 8,12, 14, 17. extension. 13. Jack, preferably two. 14. Friend and beer optional. Hands sharpened correctly is a must.