But on the site earlier, somehow, reports with examples of major repairs were not laid out - we consider this work simple and did not write reports on it - it was taken for granted that we also carry out ordinary major repairs.
However, after the increased number of questions on this topic, we decided to show in detail the standard overhaul, so to speak, from the “chamber of weights and measures”.
What are the reasons for the standard overhaul, why not make tuning, forcing the engine? The answer is simple - not everyone needs tuning and not always. Often, the client is quite satisfied with the parameters of a serial engine, but its resource has been exhausted. The client needs a good and high-quality repair, the budget is often limited, and the resource needs a high one. We offer such clients typical engine overhaul however with some minor tweaks that dramatically affect the engine resource and have been tested by us for a long time on tuning projects.
Let's consider further such work in all details.
So, our client brings an Oka car, with a two-cylinder 11113 engine, a volume of 0.75 liters. The exact mileage is unknown, but about 100 thousand km. Symptoms - the candles are oily, there is also a strong oil throw through the crankcase ventilation into the air filter housing. Diagnosis - piston group.
Let's look at the car and the engine compartment. We discover that someone has already laid the fuel return line. We are also doing this kind of work. The line for draining the fuel into the tank on the Oka is also needed with a serial engine, especially in hot weather, in conditions of traffic jams.
Oka's car began to be produced a long time ago and has earned considerable popularity among domestic motorists. Of course, the technical characteristics of the car in question are far from the requirements of a modern motorist. Despite this, at one time Oka enjoyed great popularity due to its inherent economy. Owners of an Oka car of the early years of production often encounter malfunctions of the engine system. This is easily explained by the service life and operating conditions of the vehicle. One of the most effective ways to return the vehicle to work is to overhaul the Oka or VAZ 11113 engine. It is quite difficult to carry out repairs yourself, since many processes will require expensive equipment. In order to save money, you can prepare the Oka for a major overhaul with your own hands.
The benefits of the overhaul are clear. Large-scale repair of the engine will allow: to increase the service life of the vehicle, to increase the resource of the engine and to increase its performance.
The first stage of the overhaul is a detailed diagnosis of the internal combustion engine. It is quite difficult to carry out a check in a garage. In order to determine the productivity of an engine, you will need computer equipment and related skills.
To perform a complete restoration of the engine, it is necessary to dismantle the vehicle device. It is not so easy to carry out this procedure with your own hands, despite the small dimensions of the motor. To avoid damage to the engine, it is necessary to use a number of specialized equipment: support frames, hydraulic puller, engine hanging device.
After the engine has been successfully dismantled, it is necessary to start disassembling it. It is necessary to disassemble the engine strictly in a certain order in order to prevent damage to its individual parts.
After disassembly, it is necessary to proceed to the most important stage of the overhaul, which consists in troubleshooting individual components of the internal combustion engine. The main purpose of the overhaul is to restore the original parameters of the vehicle elements. Therefore, the only correct manual for repairing the Oka is the original instructions of the manufacturer.
In the course of a large-scale restoration of the VAZ 11113 engine, the following procedures are mandatory:
Large-scale car repair requires appropriate skills and expensive equipment. Therefore, in order to perform the restoration, you will have to turn to professionals.
One of the most important stages of engine restoration is cylinder head processing. The vehicle manufacturer specifies the permissible head processing limit, which must be strictly adhered to when carrying out repairs. Before proceeding with a large-scale repair, it is necessary to study in detail the accompanying instructions of the manufacturer's plant. Also, it is imperative to check with the master to what depth the cylinder head will be processed. If the element is worn out above the permissible limit, further operation of the block head is prohibited. If processing and restoration of the cylinder head is possible, the work is accompanied by the obligatory replacement of the cylinder head gasket. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the processing depth of the element in order to give the block its original tightness.
To restore the VAZ 11113 internal combustion engine to the factory parameters, it is recommended to use the services of proven workshops. Overhaul is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure that must be carried out by qualified craftsmen. Before carrying out repairs, it is necessary to assess the cost of the restoration soundly. Some car enthusiasts forget to appreciate the difference between restoring an element and replacing it. With critical engine wear, repair costs may well exceed the primary cost of the internal combustion engine. If it is necessary to replace individual elements of the vehicle, it is worth using only original spare parts from the manufacturer.
After carrying out the repairs, it is worth starting to break in the car. During the running-in period, it is necessary to prevent an increased load on the propulsion system. Otherwise, the costs of restoring the engine will not pay off and the VAZ 11113 vehicle will again lose its performance.
VIDEO
Full restoration of engine performance is carried out by repairing:
Each stage has its own characteristics. For example, when dismantling, the main thing is to follow a certain sequence so as not to damage anything. Any measurements on a dirty engine will turn out to be incorrect.
Repair of the cylinder head is described in subsection 10.5.1.
keys "at 8", "at 10", "at 13", "at 17" and "at 19"
replaceable heads "for 10", "for 13", "for 17" and "for 19"
wrenches for screws with an internal hexagon "5" and "10"
crank
pliers
screwdriver
set of flat probes
micrometers (with measuring ranges 0-25, 25-50 and 75-100 mm)
bore gauge
dial indicator with indicator stand
torque wrench
oil filter remover
Remove the power unit from the car and the gearbox from the engine (see subsection 10.6.).
1. Unscrew the nut of the bolt of the lower fastening of the generator to the front engine support and.
2. ... remove the spring and flat washer from the bolt.
3. Loosen the nut securing the alternator to the tension bar.
4. Remove the nut securing the alternator tension bar to the cylinder head stud.
5. Remove the eyelet from the stud and the tension bar. Place the eye on the stud and screw on the nut (the eye is needed to remove the engine from the subframe).
6. Remove the alternator drive belt from the alternator pulleys and the engine crankshaft.
7. Remove the bolt of the lower fastening of the generator to the front engine support and remove the generator together with the tension bar.
8. Remove the dipstick from the cylinder block bore.
9. Loosen the crankcase ventilation hose clamps and remove the hose.
10. Loosen the clamp of the connecting hose on the outlet pipe of the cylinder head and.
11. ... remove the hose from the branch pipe together with the thermostat.
12. Remove the three nuts securing the spark moment sensor to the accessory drive housing.
13. Disconnect the hose from the vacuum ignition timing control and remove the spark moment sensor from the drive housing.
14. Loosen the tightening of the clamps and disconnect the vacuum booster hoses and from the inlet pipe.
15. ... heating the intake pipe.
16. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the small crankcase ventilation hose from the cylinder head cover fitting.
17. Loosen the fuel hose clamp (from the fuel pump to the carburetor) and.
18. ... remove it from the injection connection of the fuel pump.
19. Unscrew the two nuts securing the fuel pump and.
20. ... remove the fuel pump from the drive housing studs.
21. Remove the bolt securing the accessory drive housing and.
22. ... remove the drive housing from the cylinder head studs.
23. Unscrew the two bolts securing the bracket for the front exhaust pipe (spring washers are installed under the bolts).
24. Unscrew the four nuts securing the muffler front pipe flanges to the cylinder head studs (flat washers are installed under the nuts) and.
25. ... remove the front exhaust pipe with bracket and a hose for supplying warm air to the air filter.
26. Remove the two bolts securing the water pump inlet pipe flange.
27. Remove the bolt securing the bracket for the supply pipe to the cylinder block and.
28. ... remove the water pump inlet pipe with hoses and thermostat assembly.
29. Loosen the clamp and remove the heater outlet hose from the cylinder head outlet.
30. Disconnect the vacuum ignition timing regulator hose from the carburetor fitting.
31. Remove the three nuts securing the intake pipe to the cylinder head (flat washers are installed under the nuts) and.
32. ... remove the intake pipe assembly with the carburetor.
33. Hook the lifting straps to the engine frames. Raise the engine by tightening the straps. Remove the nut of the bolt securing the front engine mount to the subframe bracket.
34. ... remove the spring and flat washers and.
35. ... remove the bolt with flat washer.
36. Unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the rear engine support to the subframe, remove the spring and flat washers and.
37. ... remove the bolt with flat washer. Remove the engine from the subframe.
38. Place the engine on a stable stand or stand for disassembly and assembly. Remove the three bolts securing the front engine support to the cylinder block and remove the support.
39. Remove the oil filter from the engine (we recommend using a special remover).
40. Remove the three bolts securing the front camshaft belt cover and remove it.
41. Remove the tension roller nut.
42. Unscrew the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley from the crankshaft, fixing the flywheel from turning (rest the screwdriver against the bolt securing the clutch housing to the engine and against the flywheel ring gear). Remove the pulley bolt with flat washer.
43. Gently pry the alternator drive pulley with a screwdriver (or blade) and remove it from the front end of the crankshaft.
44. Remove the camshaft timing belt from the crankshaft pulley.
45. Remove the tension roller from the cylinder block stud.
46. Remove the idler pulley spacer ring.
47. Secure the camshaft pulley from turning by resting a screwdriver against the stud of the toothed belt guard and remove the pulley bolt.
48. Remove the camshaft toothed pulley, remove the pulley key if it does not fit snugly in the shaft groove.
50. ... four bolts of the rear cover (three of them attach the water pump to the cylinder block).
51. Remove the rear camshaft belt guard.
52. Insert a screwdriver between the pump casing flange and the block, slide the pump out of the seat.
53. Remove the pump and gasket (arrow).
54. Unscrew the two nuts securing the cylinder head cover, remove the flat washers and.
56. Remove the cylinder head cover.
57. Remove the six cylinder head bolts.
58. ... using an interchangeable head, a wrench for hexagon bolts and a torque wrench (since the tightening torque of the bolts is about 80 N / m or 8 kgf / m).
59. Use a screwdriver to separate the head from the block and.
60. ... remove the cylinder head.
61. Remove the cylinder head gasket.
62. Remove the eleven bolts securing the engine oil sump.
63. Use a screwdriver to separate the oil sump from the cylinder block and remove the crankcase and its gasket.
64. Remove the three bolts securing the oil pump receiver (spring washers are installed under the bolt heads) and remove the receiver.
65. Remove the O-ring from the oil pump receiver.
66. Remove the four connecting rod bottom cap nuts (two on each cap).
67. Remove the connecting rod bearing caps. If the cylinder numbers are not visible on them, apply marks (with punching or paint).
68. Remove the connecting rod bearing shells from the crankshaft journals. If you do not plan to replace the earbuds, mark them on the non-working side.
69. Carefully push the connecting rods into the cylinders so that the connecting rods do not hit the cylinder walls.
70. Remove the piston / connecting rod assembly from the cylinders. If the cylinder numbers are not visible on the connecting rods, mark them (with punching or paint).
71. Use screwdrivers to pry the crankshaft toothed pulley and.
72. ... remove it from the front end of the crankshaft.
73. Remove the toothed pulley retaining key from the groove in the front end of the crankshaft.
74. Remove the six bolts securing the oil pump.
75. ... pry it off with a screwdriver and separate the pump from the cylinder block.
76. Remove the oil pump assembly from the front end of the crankshaft.
77. Secure the flywheel from turning, unscrew the six bolts of its fastening and.
78. ... remove the bolt lock washer.
79. Remove the flywheel from the rear flange of the engine crankshaft.
80. Please note: if the dowel sleeve remains in the flywheel, immediately mark the hole in the crankshaft in which it was installed. Otherwise, an imbalance will appear.
81. Remove the five bolts and two nuts securing the crankshaft rear oil seal holder.
82. Pry off the holder with a screwdriver and.
83. ... remove it from the engine.
84. Secure the crankshaft from turning by inserting a metal rod or pin into the balancing hole of its counterweight, and unscrew the bolts securing the balance shafts gears.
85. Remove the bolts with flat washers.
86. Pry off the balance shaft gears with two screwdrivers and.
88. Remove the six bolts securing the crankshaft main bearing caps (two bolts on each cap) and.
89. ... remove the main bearing caps and lower shells.
90. Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block beds.
91. Remove the crankshaft thrust washers (on the middle crankshaft main bearing) and the upper main bearing shells.
92. If necessary, remove the keys from the rear ends of the balance shafts.
93. If it is necessary to replace the rear bearings of the balance shafts, unscrew the retaining bolts of the thrust plates and.
95. Knock the rear shaft bearings out of the cylinder block seats by hitting the balance shafts through a soft metal mandrel, and.
96. ... remove the rear balancer shaft bearings.
97. If it is necessary to replace the front bearings, remove the balance shafts. To do this, remove the rear bearing circlips using special pliers.
98. ... remove the balance shafts from the cylinder block through the rear bearing seats.
99. ... Knock out the plugs of the front ends of the balance shafts, remove the circlips and press out the front bearings using a drift (bit), applying force to the outer rings of the bearings.
100. We recommend removing the piston rings with a special puller. If not, gently pry open the upper compression ring lock and remove it from the piston.
101. Remove the lower compression ring in the same way.
102. ... oil scraper rings (upper and lower) and.
103. ... expander oil scraper rings.
104. If necessary, press the pin out of the connecting rod using a special mandrel. Please note that to assemble a piston with a connecting rod, it is necessary to heat the upper connecting rod head to a temperature of 240 ° C and a special mandrel is needed to install the piston pin.
105. Press out the rear crankshaft oil seal from the holder, placing blocks under the holder to avoid damaging it. Clean the seating surface of the holder to the cylinder block from the remnants of the old sealant.
Install a clean cylinder block assembly with balance shafts on the stand and screw the missing studs into it.
Lubricate the bearing shells and the thrust half rings of the crankshaft, as well as the pistons and oil seals with engine oil. When assembling the engine after repairs, install new crankshaft oil seals.
Install the shells in the seats and caps of the main bearings, place the crankshaft assembly with the balance shaft drive gear in the main bearings and insert thrust half rings into the seats of the middle main bearing (Fig. 2-14).
Rice. 2-14. Installation of thrust half rings of the crankshaft in the seat of the middle main bearing
Caps are counted from the drive side of the camshaft
The half rings should face the grooves towards the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft (from the side of the grooves, an anti-friction layer is applied to the surface of the half ring).
Install the main bearing caps according to the markings on their outer surfaces (Figure 2-15). Unfold the covers so that the marks on each of them are on the side of the generator mounting. Tighten their fastening bolts.
Rice. 2-15. Marks on the main bearing caps.
Check the axial free play of the crankshaft. To do this, turn the cylinder block with the back side up and install a stand with an indicator on it so that the indicator leg rests against the crankshaft flange. Moving the shaft up and down (for example, with screwdrivers), measure the axial free movement of the shaft with an indicator, which should be within 0.06-0.26 mm. If the stroke is greater, then bring it back to normal by replacing the old half rings with new ones or installing half rings of increased thickness.
Install the gears on the balance shafts so that the timing marks on the gears are opposite the marks on the crankshaft drive gear (Figure 2-16). Place washers and bolt the gears.
Rice. 2-16.Marks for installing balance shafts gears: 1 - balance shaft gears; 2 - crankshaft gear; A - TDC mark on the crankshaft rear oil seal holder
Install the crankshaft rear oil seal in the holder 3 (Fig. 2-17), having previously lubricated it with engine oil. The inward displacement of the stuffing box relative to the outer surface “E” of the holder should be no more than 0.25 mm. The gland protrusion relative to surface “E” is not allowed.
Rice. 2-17. Crankshaft rear oil seal holder: 1 - oil seal; 2 - gearbox centering bushings; 3 - rear oil seal holder; A - cavity of crankcase gases; B - oil cavity; C - cavity of the cooling system; D - holder surfaces adjacent to the cylinder block; E - outer surface of the holder
Press two dowel sleeves 2 into the rear oil seal holder, ensuring the protrusion of the sleeves 6.5 + 0.2 mm from the side opposite to the cylinder block.
Clean the mating surfaces of the holder and the cylinder block from the remnants of the old gasket, dirt, oil and degrease. On the surface “D” of the holder, mating with the block of cylinders, apply KLT-75TM sealant or similar sealant type TV-1215 from “Three Bond”.
Place the holder with the oil seal on the mandrel 41.7853.4011 and slide it from the mandrel onto the crankshaft flange. Attach the holder to the cylinder block with bolts and nuts.
Install the flywheel on the crankshaft so that the mark (tapered hole) near the rim is against the axes of the crankshaft connecting rod journals. Install the flywheel washer and bolts, secure with the retainer (see Figure 2-13) and tighten the flywheel bolts.
Match the pistons of the same weight group to the cylinders by class and assemble the pistons with connecting rods as described below. Using the bushing from the set A. 60604, insert the pistons with connecting rods into the cylinders (Fig. 2-18).
Rice. 2-18. Installation of a piston with piston rings into a cylinder using a mounting sleeve from kit A. 60604
The set includes bushings of normal and repair sizes for pistons. Adjustable bushing 67.7854.9517 can also be used.
Install the bushings in the connecting rods and the connecting rod caps. Install the connecting rods and covers on the crankshaft journals, tighten the connecting rod bolts. The connecting rod caps must be installed so that the cylinder number on the cover is opposite the cylinder number on the lower connecting rod head.
Using a mandrel 67.7853.9580, press the front crankshaft oil seal into the oil pump cover. Pour some engine oil into the oil pump and turn the pinion gear several times. Install the oil pump with the crankshaft front oil seal on the mandrel 67.7853.9580 and turn the drive gear so that it can be put on the front end of the crankshaft. Move the pump from the mandrel onto the shaft, place a gasket under the pump and attach it to the cylinder block.
The hole for the pin on the piston is offset from the axis by 1.2 mm, therefore, when installing the pistons in the cylinders, the arrow on the piston crown must point towards the camshaft drive.
For correct installation of the pump, two guide pins are pressed into its housing (Fig. 2-19), which must go into the corresponding holes in the cylinder block.
Rice. 2-19. Oil pump guide pins
Insert an oil receiver with an O-ring into the hole of the oil pump, attach it to the oil pump and the crankshaft center main bearing cap (see Fig. 2-12).
Install oil sump 5 with gasket 4 and secure it.
Install on the cylinder block and bolt the oil filter flange with gasket, Screw the oil pressure warning lamp sensor into the flange. Lubricate the oil filter O-ring with engine oil and screw the oil filter onto the flange fitting by hand.
Insert two centering sleeves into the cylinder block (Fig.2-20) and install the cylinder head gasket over them.
Rice. 2-20. Bushings for centering the head on the cylinder block
When assembling the engine, always install a new gasket under the cylinder head. The use of a used gasket is not permitted. Before installing the gasket, it is necessary to remove oil from the mating surfaces of the block and the cylinder head. The gasket must be clean and dry. Oil should not come into contact with the surface of the gasket. In case of oil ingress, degrease the gasket.
Turn the crankshaft so that the pistons are in the middle of the cylinders.
Place the cylinder head on the centering sleeves, assembled according to the instructions in the chapter “Special features of engine repair”. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in a specific sequence (Fig. 2-21). To ensure a reliable seal and prevent bolt tightening during vehicle maintenance, tighten the cylinder head bolts in four steps:
1 reception - tighten the bolts to a torque of 20 N m (2 kgf m);
2nd reception - tighten the bolts to a torque of 70.0-85.0 Nm (7.1-8.7 kgfm);
3rd reception - tighten the bolts 90 °;
Step 4 - Tighten all bolts 90 ° again.
Rice. 2-21. The order of tightening the cylinder head bolts
The cylinder head bolts may only be reused if they are extended to a maximum length of 135.5 mm (see Fig. 2-57). If the bolts are larger, replace them with new ones. Before assembling the engine, lubricate the threads and bolt heads by dipping them in engine oil. Then let the excess oil drain off. Remove oil from the bolt holes in the cylinder block.
Insert a coolant pump with a gasket into the cylinder block socket. Install the rear timing belt cover and attach it together with the pump cover to the cylinder block. Additionally secure the rear timing belt cover with a bolt to the block and a nut to the stud on the cylinder head.
Before installing the coolant pump, make sure that the pump pulley is securely connected to the roller by applying a torque of 24.5 Nm (2.5 kgfm) to the pulley. The pulley should not turn.
Insert the segmented keys into the slots on the front ends of the crankshaft and camshaft and install the toothed pulleys. Hold the camshaft pulley against turning with special tool 67.7811.9509 and secure it with a bolt and washer. Before installing, apply UT-6 sealant to the bolt thread.
It is forbidden to replace the flywheel mounting bolts with the camshaft pulley mounting bolt and vice versa due to their different coating. The flywheel bolts are phosphated and the camshaft pulley bolt is oxidized.
Using the tool 67.7811.9509, rotate the camshaft until the mark on the pulley aligns with the locating tab on the rear toothed belt guard (Fig. 2-22).
Rice. 2-22. Checking the coincidence of the timing marks on the camshaft pulley and the rear toothed belt guard
Turn the crankshaft towards a smaller angle of rotation until the alignment mark on the pulley aligns with the mark on the oil pump cover (Fig. 2-23). You can turn the crankshaft with a wrench using a bolt temporarily wrapped in the front end of the crankshaft.
Rice. 2-23. Checking the coincidence of the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the oil pump cover
Do not rotate the crankshaft and camshafts until the timing belt is installed. This will cause pistons to hit the valves and damage valves and pistons.
Install the idler roller with axle (or without axle if roller with plastic rim) and spacer ring. Secure it in the position of minimum belt tension.
Put the toothed belt on the crankshaft pulley and, pulling both branches, wind the left branch behind the tension roller and wrap it around the coolant pump pulley. Slide the lower part of the belt onto the crankshaft pulley.When installing the belt, avoid sharp bends (with radii less than 20 mm) so as not to damage the glass cord of the belt.
Tension the belt slightly with the idler pulley, turn the crankshaft two turns in the direction of rotation and check the alignment of the timing marks (see Figures 2-22 and 2-23).
If the marks do not match, repeat the operation to install the belt, correcting the position of the camshaft pulley. If the marks coincide, adjust the belt tension and clearances in the valve mechanism, as indicated in the chapter “Features of engine repair”. Install and bolt the front toothed belt cover.
Carefully fit the gasket into the groove of the cylinder head cover around the entire circumference. Install the cover on the cylinder head, put the rubber grommets on the studs and nuts with washers. If the bushings show signs of destruction, then replace them with new ones. Tighten the nuts evenly in several steps until the washer stops in the stud. Remember that the tightness of the cover depends on the carefulness of all operations on its installation.
Install the spark plugs and coolant temperature gauge gauge into the cylinder head.
Install the outlet pipe 2 (Fig. 2-10) of the cooling jacket with a gasket on the cylinder head and secure it with two nuts. Install the gasket and attach the coolant pump inlet pipe flange 3 to the cylinder block. Put the hoses going to the thermostat on the branch pipe and the inlet pipe, install the thermostat 4 and tighten the hoses with clamps.
Install the accessory housing with an O-ring on the cylinder head and secure it with a bolt. When installing the housing, pay special attention to the position of the O-ring in the groove, as when tightening the bolt, the ring may jump out of the groove and bite between the groove edges and the surface of the cylinder head. If the O-ring shows biting marks, it must be replaced with a new one.
Install the heat-insulating spacer with gaskets, the pusher and the fuel pump (see subsection “Installing the pump on the engine”).
Lubricate with engine oil and slide the O-ring onto the spark torque sensor flange. Attach the sensor to the accessory housing so that the middle mark on the sensor flange is against the locating tab on the accessory housing (Figure 2-24). The sensor shaft is connected to the camshaft shank only in one position when the camshaft clutch cams enter the grooves of the camshaft shank.
Rice. 2-24. Installation of the spark moment sensor. The arrow shows the locating protrusion on the housing of the auxiliary units
Attach the power unit front suspension bracket to the cylinder block. Fix the tensioning bar 2 (Fig. 2-25) of the generator with an eye on the cylinder head and install the generator by attaching it to the tensioning bar and to the bracket 4 of the front suspension support of the power unit.
Rice. 2-25. Generator installation: 1 - generator drive pulley; 2 - tension cap; 3 - generator; 4 - support bracket for the front suspension of the power unit; 5 - alternator drive belt
Slide the generator drive pulley onto the crankshaft and secure it with a bolt and washer. Place the belt on the crankshaft and alternator pulleys and adjust the tension.
Put a gasket on the cylinder head studs, install and secure the intake pipe with the carburetor intermediate lever bracket. Install the carburetor with the gasket, secure it with nuts and close the top with a process plug. Remember that tightening the nuts to the required torque should be done only on a cold carburetor (engine). The tightening torques of the carburetor mounting nuts are given in Appendix 1.
Install the throttle rod by connecting it to the carburetor and to the intermediate arm on the intake manifold.
Slide the crankcase ventilation hose onto the connections on the cylinder head cover and rear oil seal holder. Secure the hose with hose clamps. Install the oil level indicator.
The upper part of the oil level gauge must be in a vertical position, since the gauge is curved and does not fit into the cylinder block in another position.
Install the gasoline supply hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor and secure it with clamps. Install the spark moment sensor vacuum regulator hose and the crankcase ventilation hose from the cylinder head to the carburetor.
Put on and fasten the heater hoses with clamps to the outlet pipe of the cylinder head and the inlet pipe of the coolant pump.
Fill the engine with oil through the filler neck on the cylinder head cover.
Oka was created as a people's car, designed to meet the demand not only of young people, but also to close the niche of vehicles and mobile vehicles for people with disabilities.
Based on the technical requirements and the task put forward by the designers, the entire car, and in particular the power unit, had to be made of widespread components, be able to carry out maintenance and repairs with our own hands without involving the qualified services of a certified service station.
The history of the development of the Oka family of cars saw the use of various power units. Initially, during the "prototyping", the original Daihatsu Cuore AB series engine was installed on the car, which had 2 cylinders and developed a power of 26-30 hp. The first few test vehicles were built.
Despite the fact that the design of the engine was completely worked out by Toyota designers, this engine was not copied by Soviet designers, since the analysis of the design revealed increased requirements for the quality of manufacturing of parts and assembly of the engine itself.
In addition, the installation of such a power unit would require completely creating the production of engines from "0", which would affect the final cost of the car and the timing of the car's release into series.
By the time the concept of a "youth" or "popular" car was approved, a VAZ 2108 car was delivered to the conveyor of the Togliatti automobile plant, which determined the fate of the power unit for the baby.
By 1979, the designers of the VAZ power units had fully worked out the 2108 engine and were already ready to move on to changing the line of the 1.1 liter VAZ 2108-1 export engines to the 1300 cc engine 2108, which went to the domestic market. Therefore, it was decided to develop its own 2-cylinder engine based on a new power unit, which formed the basis of the VAZ production line.
Oka engine with a volume of 650 cc. turned out from the half of the power unit 2108. The choice of exactly half of the already developed block and the engine itself was determined by the cost of developing equipment for the manufacture of a 2-cylinder engine. The design feature of this in-line gasoline twin is an overhead camshaft that controls the operation of four valves - 2 for each cylinder.
The working process in the engine takes place in two revolutions of the crankshaft, which causes the presence of vibrations during the operation of the internal combustion engine. To compensate for the imbalance, two vibration damping balance shafts are installed. Engine power is 29 hp. The maximum torque is 44.1 Nm, which is reached at 3400 rpm.
The fuel supply system is made according to the Euro-0 standard on the basis of a carburetor. The fuel pump is mechanically driven by the engine units.
The oil system is made similar to the original 2108 using a gear pump.The oil is taken from the crankcase and is directed through the internal channels directly to the rubbing pairs of the camshaft and crankshaft.
The cylinder walls are lubricated with oil mist generated by the rotation of the crankshaft. Valve stems and parts of the gas distribution mechanism, with the exception of the camshaft itself, are lubricated by gravity.
The Oka 11113 engine (VAZ 11113) appeared in the process of finalizing the VAZ 2108 power unit and bringing its working volume to 1500 hp. Again, a half-hearted solution was used. The engine blocks and 650 and 750 cubic meters were externally absolutely identical. The changes affected the piston diameter, which was increased from 76 to 81 mm. The engine block has been redesigned internally.
The baffles between the cylinders were thinned and the additional cooling circuit of the combustion chamber was eliminated. The power unit has become more highly loaded in the temperature part. This shortcoming in the early stages led to jamming of the pistons, the formation of scoring on the cylinder walls and other malfunctions due to insufficient cooling.
Due to the implementation of improvements, the 11113 engine became more powerful and already produced 35 hp. and 52 Nm of thrust. The engine remained carbureted and met the environmental requirements of Euro-0.
The main malfunctions of the first 650 cc engines and the 11113 motor include increased noise and vibration. Increased noise appears when the engine warms up and is caused by the presence of balancer shafts. Noise is considered normal, although it is a concern for car owners.
Increased valve clearances can cause additional noise. Eliminated by regulation. Vibration has a constructive reason and is due to the operation of only 2 pistons, which have a working stroke for only 2 revolutions of the KV, that is, in the process of operation, 1 piston turns the KV by 360 °.
Burnout of the cylinder head gasket. It is caused by inaccuracy in the manufacture of gaskets at the factories and improper tightening of the block head, which allows incomplete compression of the gasket. This sealing element must not be reused during repairs. Mandatory replacement is required, while it is worth paying attention to the surface of the gasket and in case of scoring, you should not use it.
Difficulties in starting a hot 750 cc engine are due to the fuel pump diaphragm and the layout of the engine compartment. Elevated operating temperatures of the engine block lead to the formation of fuel vapors in the pump cavities, and the unit is not designed for pumping gaseous media.
In the event of a malfunction on the track, it is enough to put a moistened rag on the pump housing. This will be enough to get to the base and replace the diaphragm.
Loss of spark. The sparking system in the cylinders is made in a contactless scheme using an ignition coil. The location of the coil allows water to enter when passing through puddles. This causes the voltage boosting element to fail and results in the inability to start the engine.
Cooling system. Has the same problems as all VAZ engines. The low quality of the pump leads to its failure, which in due time leads to overheating of the engine. The same applies to the reliability of the thermostat. If problems arise, replacement of the elements is required.
Failures of electronic sensors. They are caused by the poor-quality performance of electronics by Russian manufacturers, as well as by the low culture of the assembly of power units, which allow incomplete fixation of the sensors on the motor housing.
The OKA engine can be repaired in a garage if you have experience in servicing and repairing Russian-made ICEs. With the exception of specific elements, engine repair is carried out using components used to repair VAZ 21083 and VAZ 21093 engines.
The Oka engine of both the first and second generations is quite reliable.And subject to the factory requirements for the maintenance procedure, it has a resource of 120,000 km.
According to the vehicle passport, both the 11113 engine and the 1111 engine have a maintenance program every 15,000 km. The use of a fully synthetic engine oil is recommended for this maintenance interval. When using semi-synthetics, and even more so mineral motor oils, the Oka motor requires a lubricant change in accordance with the service life of the oil, that is, at least 10,000 km.
In this case, the oil system is flushed and the filter element replaced. The volume of oil in the Oka engine is 2.5 liters, but when replaced, 150-300 ml of lubricant remains on the walls of the motor, therefore the filling volume is controlled by the dipstick. Oil overflow is not allowed.
The cooling system of the OKA 11113 engine requires a fluid change when the operating time is 60,000 km. At the same time, the coolant retains its lubricating and anti-corrosion properties and prolongs the operation of the cooling system.
Every 30,000 km, a mandatory valve adjustment is required. But in fact, the clearances are adjusted according to the technical condition with control on a given run.
Additional work that is not relevant on modern cars includes the obligatory cleaning of the carburetor every 30,000 km with idle speed adjustment at each next maintenance.
At 60,000 km, regardless of the technical condition, the timing belt is being replaced. The design of the cylinder-piston group allows the valves to bend when the belt breaks, so this procedure should not be neglected.
Tuning the Oka engine does not make any practical sense in normal operating conditions. An increase in power and torque when flashing ECM units can give an increase of up to 10% horsepower, which with a power of about 30 hp. would not be particularly appropriate.
As a garage revision, the Oka engine is tuned by installing an injector from a VAZ 21083i, but the cost of revision can be comparable to the installation of a Chinese liter TJ376QE FAW (Daihatsu) engine, which was mounted on a Serpukhov-made SeAZ Oka 11116-02 car in 2007-08.
Serially, only the VAZ 1111 and VAZ 11113 engines were installed on the car. It was with such power units that the car was supplied to retail chains.
As options for saving production and ensuring environmental requirements, both SeAZ and KAMAZ tried to use power units from other manufacturers. This was due to the fact that AvtoVAZ refused to continue producing minicars and actually stopped supplying power units to complete the car.
So in 2004 a trial series of cars with the Korean Hyundai Atos engine was made. 15 cars were produced for trial tests, but the program did not go into series.
Also this year, small-scale tests were carried out at SeAZ of cars with engines of the Melitopol plant MeMZ 245. The car had the name OKA-Astro and was subsequently produced in small series on the basis of the Kamov car assembly plant. Another version of the Ukrainian power unit was the MeMZ 247.1 This motor, which met the Euro-2 requirements, was not supplied for mass production, although such a configuration is rarely found in the secondary market.
In 2007-2008, a Chinese three-cylinder injection engine was installed at the Serpukhov plant, which developed 53 hp.
The sports version of the Oka uses a Priora engine.
The tracked all-terrain vehicle based on the Oka uses a VAZ 2131 engine.
As an option for garage tuning, there are several examples of cars using three-cylinder Volkswagen diesels.
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