DIY eye engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself eye engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Very often they call or write us with a question - “on the site you showed so many modified engines, but do you do a standard overhaul?”
Answer - YES, we do!

But on the site earlier, somehow, reports with examples of major repairs were not laid out - we consider this work simple and did not write reports on it - it was taken for granted that we also carry out ordinary major repairs.

However, after the increased number of questions on this topic, we decided to show in detail the standard overhaul, so to speak, from the “chamber of weights and measures”.

What are the reasons for the standard overhaul, why not make tuning, forcing the engine? The answer is simple - not everyone needs tuning and not always. Often, the client is quite satisfied with the parameters of a serial engine, but its resource has been exhausted. The client needs a good and high-quality repair, the budget is often limited, and the resource needs a high one. We offer such clients typical engine overhaulhowever with some minor tweaks that dramatically affect the engine resource and have been tested by us for a long time on tuning projects.

Let's consider further such work in all details.

So, our client brings an Oka car, with a two-cylinder 11113 engine, a volume of 0.75 liters. The exact mileage is unknown, but about 100 thousand km. Symptoms - the candles are oily, there is also a strong oil throw through the crankcase ventilation into the air filter housing. Diagnosis - piston group.

Let's look at the car and the engine compartment. We discover that someone has already laid the fuel return line. We are also doing this kind of work. The line for draining the fuel into the tank on the Oka is also needed with a serial engine, especially in hot weather, in conditions of traffic jams.

Video (click to play).

Repair of the cylinder head is described in subsection 10.5.1.

keys "at 8", "at 10", "at 13", "at 17" and "at 19"
replaceable heads "for 10", "for 13", "for 17" and "for 19"
wrenches for screws with an internal hexagon "5" and "10"
crank
pliers
screwdriver
set of flat probes
micrometers (with measuring ranges 0-25, 25-50 and 75-100 mm)
bore gauge
dial indicator with indicator stand
torque wrench
oil filter remover

Remove the power unit from the car and the gearbox from the engine (see subsection 10.6.).

1. Unscrew the nut of the bolt of the lower fastening of the generator to the front engine support and.

2. ... remove the spring and flat washer from the bolt.

3. Loosen the nut securing the alternator to the tension bar.

4. Remove the nut securing the alternator tension bar to the cylinder head stud.

5. Remove the eyelet from the stud and the tension bar. Place the eye on the stud and screw on the nut (the eye is needed to remove the engine from the subframe).

6. Remove the alternator drive belt from the alternator pulleys and the engine crankshaft.

7. Remove the bolt of the lower fastening of the generator to the front engine support and remove the generator together with the tension bar.

8. Remove the dipstick from the cylinder block bore.

9. Loosen the crankcase ventilation hose clamps and remove the hose.

10. Loosen the clamp of the connecting hose on the outlet pipe of the cylinder head and.

11. ... remove the hose from the branch pipe together with the thermostat.

12. Remove the three nuts securing the spark moment sensor to the accessory drive housing.

13. Disconnect the hose from the vacuum ignition timing control and remove the spark moment sensor from the drive housing.

14. Loosen the tightening of the clamps and disconnect the vacuum booster hoses and from the inlet pipe.

15. ... heating the intake pipe.

16. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the small crankcase ventilation hose from the cylinder head cover fitting.

17. Loosen the fuel hose clamp (from the fuel pump to the carburetor) and.

18. ... remove it from the injection connection of the fuel pump.

19. Unscrew the two nuts securing the fuel pump and.

20. ... remove the fuel pump from the drive housing studs.

21. Remove the bolt securing the accessory drive housing and.

22. ... remove the drive housing from the cylinder head studs.

23. Unscrew the two bolts securing the bracket for the front exhaust pipe (spring washers are installed under the bolts).

24. Unscrew the four nuts securing the muffler front pipe flanges to the cylinder head studs (flat washers are installed under the nuts) and.

25. ... remove the front exhaust pipe with bracket and a hose for supplying warm air to the air filter.

26. Remove the two bolts securing the water pump inlet pipe flange.

27. Remove the bolt securing the bracket for the supply pipe to the cylinder block and.

28. ... remove the water pump inlet pipe with hoses and thermostat assembly.

29. Loosen the clamp and remove the heater outlet hose from the cylinder head outlet.

30. Disconnect the vacuum ignition timing regulator hose from the carburetor fitting.

31. Remove the three nuts securing the intake pipe to the cylinder head (flat washers are installed under the nuts) and.

32. ... remove the intake pipe assembly with the carburetor.

33. Hook the lifting straps to the engine frames. Raise the engine by tightening the straps. Remove the nut of the bolt securing the front engine mount to the subframe bracket.

34. ... remove the spring and flat washers and.

35. ... remove the bolt with flat washer.

36. Unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the rear engine support to the subframe, remove the spring and flat washers and.

37. ... remove the bolt with flat washer. Remove the engine from the subframe.

38. Place the engine on a stable stand or stand for disassembly and assembly. Remove the three bolts securing the front engine support to the cylinder block and remove the support.

39. Remove the oil filter from the engine (we recommend using a special remover).

40. Remove the three bolts securing the front camshaft belt cover and remove it.

41. Remove the tension roller nut.

42. Unscrew the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley from the crankshaft, fixing the flywheel from turning (rest the screwdriver against the bolt securing the clutch housing to the engine and against the flywheel ring gear). Remove the pulley bolt with flat washer.

43. Gently pry the alternator drive pulley with a screwdriver (or blade) and remove it from the front end of the crankshaft.

44. Remove the camshaft timing belt from the crankshaft pulley.

45. Remove the tension roller from the cylinder block stud.

46. Remove the idler pulley spacer ring.

47. Secure the camshaft pulley from turning by resting a screwdriver against the stud of the toothed belt guard and remove the pulley bolt.

48. Remove the camshaft toothed pulley, remove the pulley key if it does not fit snugly in the shaft groove.

50. ... four bolts of the rear cover (three of them attach the water pump to the cylinder block).

51. Remove the rear camshaft belt guard.

52. Insert a screwdriver between the pump casing flange and the block, slide the pump out of the seat.

53. Remove the pump and gasket (arrow).

54. Unscrew the two nuts securing the cylinder head cover, remove the flat washers and.

56. Remove the cylinder head cover.

57. Remove the six cylinder head bolts.

58. ... using an interchangeable head, a wrench for hexagon bolts and a torque wrench (since the tightening torque of the bolts is about 80 N / m or 8 kgf / m).

59. Use a screwdriver to separate the head from the block and.

60. ... remove the cylinder head.

61. Remove the cylinder head gasket.

62. Remove the eleven bolts securing the engine oil sump.

63. Use a screwdriver to separate the oil sump from the cylinder block and remove the crankcase and its gasket.

64. Remove the three bolts securing the oil pump receiver (spring washers are installed under the bolt heads) and remove the receiver.

65. Remove the O-ring from the oil pump receiver.

66. Remove the four connecting rod bottom cap nuts (two on each cap).

67. Remove the connecting rod bearing caps. If the cylinder numbers are not visible on them, apply marks (with punching or paint).

68. Remove the connecting rod bearing shells from the crankshaft journals. If you do not plan to replace the earbuds, mark them on the non-working side.

69. Carefully push the connecting rods into the cylinders so that the connecting rods do not hit the cylinder walls.

70. Remove the piston / connecting rod assembly from the cylinders. If the cylinder numbers are not visible on the connecting rods, mark them (with punching or paint).

71. Use screwdrivers to pry the crankshaft toothed pulley and.

72. ... remove it from the front end of the crankshaft.

73. Remove the toothed pulley retaining key from the groove in the front end of the crankshaft.

74. Remove the six bolts securing the oil pump.

75. ... pry it off with a screwdriver and separate the pump from the cylinder block.

76. Remove the oil pump assembly from the front end of the crankshaft.

77. Secure the flywheel from turning, unscrew the six bolts of its fastening and.

78. ... remove the bolt lock washer.

79. Remove the flywheel from the rear flange of the engine crankshaft.

80. Please note: if the dowel sleeve remains in the flywheel, immediately mark the hole in the crankshaft in which it was installed. Otherwise, an imbalance will appear.

81. Remove the five bolts and two nuts securing the crankshaft rear oil seal holder.

82. Pry off the holder with a screwdriver and.

83. ... remove it from the engine.

84. Secure the crankshaft from turning by inserting a metal rod or pin into the balancing hole of its counterweight, and unscrew the bolts securing the balance shafts gears.

85. Remove the bolts with flat washers.

86. Pry off the balance shaft gears with two screwdrivers and.

88. Remove the six bolts securing the crankshaft main bearing caps (two bolts on each cap) and.

89. ... remove the main bearing caps and lower shells.

90. Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block beds.

91. Remove the crankshaft thrust washers (on the middle crankshaft main bearing) and the upper main bearing shells.

92. If necessary, remove the keys from the rear ends of the balance shafts.

93. If it is necessary to replace the rear bearings of the balance shafts, unscrew the retaining bolts of the thrust plates and.

95. Knock the rear shaft bearings out of the cylinder block seats by hitting the balance shafts through a soft metal mandrel, and.

96. ... remove the rear balancer shaft bearings.

97. If it is necessary to replace the front bearings, remove the balance shafts. To do this, remove the rear bearing circlips using special pliers.

98. ... remove the balance shafts from the cylinder block through the rear bearing seats.

99. ... Knock out the plugs of the front ends of the balance shafts, remove the circlips and press out the front bearings using a drift (bit), applying force to the outer rings of the bearings.

100. We recommend removing the piston rings with a special puller. If not, gently pry open the upper compression ring lock and remove it from the piston.

101. Remove the lower compression ring in the same way.

102. ... oil scraper rings (upper and lower) and.

103. ... expander oil scraper rings.

104. If necessary, press the pin out of the connecting rod using a special mandrel. Please note that to assemble a piston with a connecting rod, it is necessary to heat the upper connecting rod head to a temperature of 240 ° C and a special mandrel is needed to install the piston pin.

105. Press out the rear crankshaft oil seal from the holder, placing blocks under the holder to avoid damaging it. Clean the seating surface of the holder to the cylinder block from the remnants of the old sealant.

I decided to overhaul after a complete disassembly of the motor and its inspection. But alas, not immediately after the purchase, but only after more than a year of its operation - there was no money and I finished it off (not on purpose, but because I did not pull at the bottom at all), often spinning up to 5-6 thousand rpm on the carburetor 21081 ...
A poor-quality repair was made on the car before the purchase (boring in the first repair without replacing it with the corresponding piston), as a result of which the engine also died very quickly, and a burned-out exhaust valve in the second cylinder was also found.
The overhaul was carried out in the city of Naberezhnye-Chelny in the KVAZAR Workshop.
What was done:
1. Boring up to 82.8
2. Connecting rods and pistons 2110 with floating pin
3. Piston cooling nozzles
4. Light valves
5. Bronze guides
6.RS pusher washers
7. Drilled channels for forced lubrication of pushers
8. Grinding the knee all gaskets, new cylinder head bolts, etc.
9. Craft clutch, flywheel groove and replacement of its crown.

You can see the finished motor in the photos. After running in 3000 km, I began to pull much harder, unlike the new state, not a drop of oil leaks anymore, the engine is dry and clean!))))

Checkpoint disassembled and washed. The gears turned out to be in good condition, and the whole row, apparently it was replaced simply in the collection sometime. Also installed a cardan from Kalina.
Summer ZIG oil in the engine, in the Shell checkpoint

Oka's car began to be produced a long time ago and has earned considerable popularity among domestic motorists. Of course, the technical characteristics of the car in question are far from the requirements of a modern motorist. Despite this, at one time Oka enjoyed great popularity due to its inherent economy. Owners of an Oka car of the early years of production often encounter malfunctions of the engine system. This is easily explained by the service life and operating conditions of the vehicle. One of the most effective ways to return the vehicle to work is to overhaul the Oka or VAZ 11113 engine. It is quite difficult to carry out repairs yourself, since many processes will require expensive equipment. In order to save money, you can prepare the Oka for a major overhaul with your own hands.

The benefits of the overhaul are clear. Large-scale repair of the engine will allow: to increase the service life of the vehicle, to increase the resource of the engine and to increase its performance.

The first stage of the overhaul is a detailed diagnosis of the internal combustion engine. It is quite difficult to carry out a check in a garage. In order to determine the productivity of an engine, you will need computer equipment and related skills.

To perform a complete restoration of the engine, it is necessary to dismantle the vehicle device. It is not so easy to carry out this procedure with your own hands, despite the small dimensions of the motor. To avoid damage to the engine, it is necessary to use a number of specialized equipment: support frames, hydraulic puller, engine hanging device.

After the engine has been successfully dismantled, it is necessary to start disassembling it.It is necessary to disassemble the engine strictly in a certain order in order to prevent damage to its individual parts.

After disassembly, it is necessary to proceed to the most important stage of the overhaul, which consists in troubleshooting individual components of the internal combustion engine. The main purpose of the overhaul is to restore the original parameters of the vehicle elements. Therefore, the only correct manual for repairing the Oka is the original instructions of the manufacturer.

In the course of a large-scale restoration of the VAZ 11113 engine, the following procedures are mandatory:

Restoring the parameters of the cylinder block VAZ 11113.
Repair of crankshaft and camshaft inlets.
Restoration of the bearing part of the crankshaft.
Processing the head of the VAZ 11113 cylinder block.
Restoring the tightness of the unit by welding.
Correction of the connecting rod geometry.
Replacement of all consumables and rubber seals.

Large-scale car repair requires appropriate skills and expensive equipment. Therefore, in order to perform the restoration, you will have to turn to professionals.

One of the most important stages of engine restoration is cylinder head processing. The vehicle manufacturer specifies the permissible head processing limit, which must be strictly adhered to when carrying out repairs. Before proceeding with a large-scale repair, it is necessary to study in detail the accompanying instructions of the manufacturer's plant. Also, it is imperative to check with the master to what depth the cylinder head will be processed. If the element is worn out above the permissible limit, further operation of the block head is prohibited. If processing and restoration of the cylinder head is possible, the work is accompanied by the obligatory replacement of the cylinder head gasket. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the processing depth of the element in order to give the block its original tightness.

To restore the VAZ 11113 internal combustion engine to the factory parameters, it is recommended to use the services of proven workshops. Overhaul is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure that must be carried out by qualified craftsmen. Before carrying out repairs, it is necessary to assess the cost of the restoration soundly. Some car enthusiasts forget to appreciate the difference between restoring an element and replacing it. With critical engine wear, repair costs may well exceed the primary cost of the internal combustion engine. If it is necessary to replace individual elements of the vehicle, it is worth using only original spare parts from the manufacturer.

After carrying out the repairs, it is worth starting to break in the car. During the running-in period, it is necessary to prevent an increased load on the propulsion system. Otherwise, the costs of restoring the engine will not pay off and the VAZ 11113 vehicle will again lose its performance.

Successful restoration of the VAZ 11113 car!

In general, the car "Oka" is a fairly reliable and unpretentious model: the car has low fuel consumption, high-quality chassis, which is perfectly adapted to our roads. However, during operation, certain technical problems appear with enviable regularity in various systems and mechanisms of the machine. We will tell you more about the most frequent breakdowns and malfunctions.

Starter problems
Probably, all owners of the VAZ-1111 are familiar with the situation when you turn the ignition key, but the car does not react in any way - the starter does not even try to turn the crankshaft. How to find out what the problem is and what to do in such a situation?
First, check the battery terminals: if they are securely clamped, if there is oxide on them. Perhaps the "plus" or "minus" just flew off.
Second, it is necessary to exclude jamming of the crankshaft. To do this, turn the coolant pump (pump) or generator shaft. If they do not rotate, you should contact the service station - this problem cannot be eliminated on the spot.
Third, inspect the ignition switch and starter - it is possible that any of the contacts are disconnected and therefore no electric current is supplied.
Fourth, if a crack is heard under the hood when the ignition key is turned, then, most likely, the starter traction relay has burned out. It needs to be replaced.
Fifth, it is not uncommon for the starter to make a loud noise during operation. Possible cause - improper installation of the starter or loose mounting. Tighten loose bolts or align the entire mechanism.
Sixth, loud noise is also possible due to wear on the bearing bushings. In this case, they should be replaced.

If the starter turns the crankshaft freely, but the engine still does not start, then do the following:
• check the capacity of the storage battery, possibly there is not enough voltage. Most often, in this case, a crackling sound is heard. If so, recharge the battery or replace it;
• check the Hall sensor with a voltmeter, if you need the device not at hand, then install a known good sensor (experienced motorists recommend always carrying a spare Hall sensor with you);
• the engine may not start due to a faulty commutator. It cannot be repaired - it should be changed immediately;
• check the correctness of setting the ignition timing;
• make sure that the marks on the crankshaft and camshafts match.

If after that the car still does not start, then we proceed to check the spark plugs:
• unscrew the candles and measure the gap (standard - 0.7-0.8 mm);
• if there are spare working candles - screw them in, it may be that the old ones have simply fallen into disrepair.

Carburetor malfunctions
The second mechanism that can cause the car not to start is the carburetor:
• the needle valve may be stuck closed - tap lightly on the carburetor cover. Replace the faulty valve as soon as possible;
• if there is no gasoline in the carburetor float chamber, check the filters and pipes of the fuel system. They may be clogged or pinched;
• in hot weather, especially after long periods of standing, gasoline can evaporate from the carburetor. Try manually pumping fuel;
• the pump may be faulty - unscrew the fuel hose from the carburetor, pinch it with your finger and manually pump the gasoline - a working pump will create a tangible pressure;
• check the jets (main fuel and idle), possibly dirt has got into them;
• tighten all bolts and carburetor mountings.

"Shots" from the exhaust pipe
Each of us has heard more than once how cannonade literally sounds from the exhaust pipe. The VAZ-1111 car is also susceptible to a similar disease. The reasons for this are as follows:
• incorrectly set angle of ignition moment;
• the switch is faulty;
• the valve timing is knocked down - the marks on the crankshaft and camshafts do not match;
• broken ignition coil;
• installed candles with an inappropriate glow number

Gasoline smell
Often, domestically produced cars "delight" the driver and passengers with a persistent smell of gasoline. If this situation is familiar to you, then proceed according to the following algorithm:
• check the threaded fasteners and clamps on the fuel system hoses;
• inspect the oil dipstick, if there are traces of gasoline on it, it is possible that gasoline will get into the crankcase through the faulty diaphragm of the fuel pump. A diaphragm or a pump follows, if a lot of fuel gets in, then oil;
• adjust the carburetor starting device;
• check the level of gasoline in the float chamber;
• screw the fuel jets tightly;
• adjust the ignition timing;
• inspect the throttle valve, it may be stuck;
• use a compressor to check the pressure in the cylinders. Gasoline odor can be caused by worn valves, rings, seats and other parts.

Increased fuel consumption
If the car has an increased fuel consumption, then it is necessary to check the following components and mechanisms:
• the diaphragm of the fuel pump - its damage leads to the ingress of gasoline into the crankcase;
• tighten all clamps and threaded connections of the fuel system, possibly at some joint there is a leak;
• Quite often, increased resistance to movement of the car causes unnecessary fuel consumption. VAZ-1111 at a speed of 50 km / h should have a run-down (i.e., the distance that the car will travel when the neutral gear is engaged) more than 500 m, if this does not happen, then check the pressure in the wheels, the angles of the front wheels and the operation of the brake system (possibly wedging it up);
• adjust the carburetor, check the throttle valve, jets, needle valve;
• Sometimes increased fuel consumption is a sign of wear or damage to valves and piston rings.

Increased oil consumption
Increased oil consumption is considered to be 500 g per 1000 km of run, i.e. if you have to add oil to the engine every few hundred kilometers. The reasons for this malfunction are as follows:
• wear of sealing lips, hardening of gaskets. In this case, wash the engine and find the leak after a short trip;
• clogged crankcase ventilation system;
• wear or loss of elasticity of the valve stem seals (valve seals), valve stems or guide bushings. It will be necessary to partially disassemble the cylinder head and replace the broken parts;
• wear or breakage of piston cylinders and their rings. It is difficult to replace cylinders on your own without special equipment, so it is better to contact a service station.

The oil pressure indicator light is on
If while driving your oil pressure indicator light comes on, you should stop immediately. Further driving may result in serious engine damage. After stopping, carry out the following diagnostics:
• check the oil level on the dipstick;
• it is possible that the oil of the wrong viscosity has been filled in - change it;
• remove the oil pan and check the oil receiver mesh (may be clogged) and the pressure reducing valve for skewing, clogging or weakening of the spring;
• inspect the diaphragm of the fuel pump - if it is damaged, gasoline gets into the oil, thereby thinning it;
• check the oil pump - due to wear of the gears, it may be defective;
• make sure that the emergency oil pressure sensor is in good working order and the terminal is connected to it (maybe the contact has fallen asleep).

Overheating of the engine
Severe overheating of the engine may be due to malfunctions in the cooling system:
faulty thermostat;
• plugs in the cooling system resulting from leaks in the expansion tank cap. To check, apply soapy foam to the lid and press your hands on the cooling system hoses, if soap bubbles go out, replace the tank or lid;
• limescale in the cooling system - flush the entire system with special means and do not use hard water in the future (it is best to fill in antifreeze);
• excessive contamination of the radiator cells - wash the radiator with a jet of water;
• check the electric fan - close its contacts, if it works, then the sensor is faulty, if not, then check the electrical circuit or the fan motor;
• adjust the ignition timing.

Extraneous noise when driving
If during movement there are extraneous noises or tapping, then the following mechanisms must be checked:
• wheel bearings - their wear causes noise;
• tires - possibly uneven tread wear, rubber peeling;
• the wheel touches the wheel arch liner - adjust the wheel alignment angles, do not overload the car and use only standard wheel disks;
• tighten the wheel nuts;
• faulty shock absorber strut;
• worn suspension spring;
• check the silent blocks, ball joints, tie rods, anti-roll bars, strut mountings.

Brake system problems
A squeal when braking is the first sign of a problem with the braking system. The most common causes of screeching are the following malfunctions:
• wear of brake linings (pads) - replace both pads;
• dirt trapped in the pads - clean the pad surface with a metal brush;
• corrosion of the brake disc - sharpen or replace it;
• Weakened or broken rear brake pad return spring.

This is not a complete list of possible malfunctions. Any technique breaks down sooner or later, but if we cannot predict when exactly this will happen, then it is within our power to prepare:
1. Always carry a tow rope with you.
2. it is desirable to have wires for lighting in the car (especially important in winter);
3. Spare switch and Hall sensor;
4. a set of fuses;
5. a piece of fuel hose and clamp;
6. spare spark plugs;
7. belts for the generator and pump;
8. clutch cable;
9. solenoid valve for idling.
This simple list will help you cope with some breakdowns and get to the service station. Do not forget to grab some politeness - motorists, despite the general bitterness, are quite close-knit and sympathetic people. It is unlikely that you will be left alone in trouble.

Full restoration of engine performance is carried out by repairing:
Cylinder head; cylinder block; crank mechanism; crankshaft. Complete replacement of all these parts is also possible. Stages of engine overhaul Dismantling of the power unit; Washing; Troubleshooting; Engine repair; Cold running; Engine installation.Each stage has its own characteristics. For example, when dismantling, the main thing is to follow a certain sequence so as not to damage anything. Any measurements on a dirty engine will turn out to be incorrect.Install a clean cylinder block assembly with balance shafts on the stand and screw the missing studs into it.Lubricate the bearing shells and the thrust half rings of the crankshaft, as well as the pistons and oil seals with engine oil. When assembling the engine after repairs, install new crankshaft oil seals.Install the shells in the seats and caps of the main bearings, place the crankshaft assembly with the balance shaft drive gear in the main bearings and insert thrust half rings into the seats of the middle main bearing (Fig. 2-14).Rice. 2-14. Installation of thrust half rings of the crankshaft in the seat of the middle main bearing

Caps are counted from the drive side of the camshaftThe half rings should face the grooves towards the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft (from the side of the grooves, an anti-friction layer is applied to the surface of the half ring).Install the main bearing caps according to the markings on their outer surfaces (Figure 2-15). Unfold the covers so that the marks on each of them are on the side of the generator mounting. Tighten their fastening bolts.Rice. 2-15. Marks on the main bearing caps.Check the axial free play of the crankshaft. To do this, turn the cylinder block with the back side up and install a stand with an indicator on it so that the indicator leg rests against the crankshaft flange. Moving the shaft up and down (for example, with screwdrivers), measure the axial free movement of the shaft with an indicator, which should be within 0.06-0.26 mm. If the stroke is greater, then bring it back to normal by replacing the old half rings with new ones or installing half rings of increased thickness.Install the gears on the balance shafts so that the timing marks on the gears are opposite the marks on the crankshaft drive gear (Figure 2-16). Place washers and bolt the gears.Rice. 2-16.Marks for installing balance shafts gears: 1 - balance shaft gears; 2 - crankshaft gear; A - TDC mark on the crankshaft rear oil seal holderInstall the crankshaft rear oil seal in the holder 3 (Fig. 2-17), having previously lubricated it with engine oil. The inward displacement of the stuffing box relative to the outer surface “E” of the holder should be no more than 0.25 mm. The gland protrusion relative to surface “E” is not allowed.Rice. 2-17. Crankshaft rear oil seal holder: 1 - oil seal; 2 - gearbox centering bushings; 3 - rear oil seal holder; A - cavity of crankcase gases; B - oil cavity; C - cavity of the cooling system; D - holder surfaces adjacent to the cylinder block; E - outer surface of the holderPress two dowel sleeves 2 into the rear oil seal holder, ensuring the protrusion of the sleeves 6.5 + 0.2 mm from the side opposite to the cylinder block.Clean the mating surfaces of the holder and the cylinder block from the remnants of the old gasket, dirt, oil and degrease. On the surface “D” of the holder, mating with the block of cylinders, apply KLT-75TM sealant or similar sealant type TV-1215 from “Three Bond”.Place the holder with the oil seal on the mandrel 41.7853.4011 and slide it from the mandrel onto the crankshaft flange. Attach the holder to the cylinder block with bolts and nuts.Install the flywheel on the crankshaft so that the mark (tapered hole) near the rim is against the axes of the crankshaft connecting rod journals. Install the flywheel washer and bolts, secure with the retainer (see Figure 2-13) and tighten the flywheel bolts.Match the pistons of the same weight group to the cylinders by class and assemble the pistons with connecting rods as described below. Using the bushing from the set A. 60604, insert the pistons with connecting rods into the cylinders (Fig. 2-18).Rice. 2-18. Installation of a piston with piston rings into a cylinder using a mounting sleeve from kit A. 60604The set includes bushings of normal and repair sizes for pistons. Adjustable bushing 67.7854.9517 can also be used.Install the bushings in the connecting rods and the connecting rod caps. Install the connecting rods and covers on the crankshaft journals, tighten the connecting rod bolts. The connecting rod caps must be installed so that the cylinder number on the cover is opposite the cylinder number on the lower connecting rod head.Using a mandrel 67.7853.9580, press the front crankshaft oil seal into the oil pump cover. Pour some engine oil into the oil pump and turn the pinion gear several times. Install the oil pump with the crankshaft front oil seal on the mandrel 67.7853.9580 and turn the drive gear so that it can be put on the front end of the crankshaft. Move the pump from the mandrel onto the shaft, place a gasket under the pump and attach it to the cylinder block.The hole for the pin on the piston is offset from the axis by 1.2 mm, therefore, when installing the pistons in the cylinders, the arrow on the piston crown must point towards the camshaft drive.For correct installation of the pump, two guide pins are pressed into its housing (Fig. 2-19), which must go into the corresponding holes in the cylinder block.Rice. 2-19. Oil pump guide pinsInsert an oil receiver with an O-ring into the hole of the oil pump, attach it to the oil pump and the crankshaft center main bearing cap (see Fig. 2-12).Install oil sump 5 with gasket 4 and secure it.Install on the cylinder block and bolt the oil filter flange with gasket, Screw the oil pressure warning lamp sensor into the flange. Lubricate the oil filter O-ring with engine oil and screw the oil filter onto the flange fitting by hand.Insert the two centering sleeves into the cylinder block (Figure 2-20) and position the cylinder head gasket over them.Rice. 2-20.Bushings for centering the head on the cylinder blockWhen assembling the engine, always install a new gasket under the cylinder head. The use of a used gasket is not permitted. Before installing the gasket, it is necessary to remove oil from the mating surfaces of the block and the cylinder head. The gasket must be clean and dry. Oil should not come into contact with the surface of the gasket. In case of oil ingress, degrease the gasket.Turn the crankshaft so that the pistons are in the middle of the cylinders.Place the cylinder head on the centering sleeves, assembled according to the instructions in the chapter “Special features of engine repair”. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in a specific sequence (Fig. 2-21). To ensure a reliable seal and prevent bolt tightening during vehicle maintenance, tighten the cylinder head bolts in four steps:1 reception - tighten the bolts to a torque of 20 N m (2 kgf m);2nd reception - tighten the bolts to a torque of 70.0-85.0 Nm (7.1-8.7 kgfm);3rd reception - tighten the bolts 90 °;Step 4 - Tighten all bolts 90 ° again.Rice. 2-21. The order of tightening the cylinder head boltsThe cylinder head bolts may only be reused if they are extended to a maximum length of 135.5 mm (see Fig. 2-57). If the bolts are larger, replace them with new ones. Before assembling the engine, lubricate the threads and bolt heads by dipping them in engine oil. Then let the excess oil drain off. Remove oil from the bolt holes in the cylinder block.Insert a coolant pump with a gasket into the cylinder block socket. Install the rear timing belt cover and attach it together with the pump cover to the cylinder block. Additionally secure the rear timing belt cover with a bolt to the block and a nut to the stud on the cylinder head.Before installing the coolant pump, make sure that the pump pulley is securely connected to the roller by applying a torque of 24.5 Nm (2.5 kgfm) to the pulley. The pulley should not turn.

Insert the segmented keys into the slots on the front ends of the crankshaft and camshaft and install the toothed pulleys. Hold the camshaft pulley against turning with special tool 67.7811.9509 and secure it with a bolt and washer. Before installing, apply UT-6 sealant to the bolt thread.It is forbidden to replace the flywheel mounting bolts with the camshaft pulley mounting bolt and vice versa due to their different coating. The flywheel bolts are phosphated and the camshaft pulley bolt is oxidized.Using the tool 67.7811.9509, rotate the camshaft until the mark on the pulley aligns with the locating tab on the rear toothed belt guard (Fig. 2-22).Rice. 2-22. Checking the coincidence of the timing marks on the camshaft pulley and the rear toothed belt guardTurn the crankshaft towards a smaller angle of rotation until the alignment mark on the pulley aligns with the mark on the oil pump cover (Fig. 2-23). You can turn the crankshaft with a wrench using a bolt temporarily wrapped in the front end of the crankshaft.Rice. 2-23. Checking the coincidence of the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the oil pump coverDo not rotate the crankshaft and camshafts until the timing belt is installed. This will cause pistons to hit the valves and damage valves and pistons.Install the idler roller with axle (or without axle if roller with plastic rim) and spacer ring. Secure it in the position of minimum belt tension.Put the toothed belt on the crankshaft pulley and, pulling both branches, wind the left branch behind the tension roller and wrap it around the coolant pump pulley. Slide the lower part of the belt onto the crankshaft pulley.When installing the belt, avoid sharp bends (with radii less than 20 mm) so as not to damage the glass cord of the belt.Tension the belt slightly with the idler pulley, turn the crankshaft two turns in the direction of rotation and check the alignment of the timing marks (see Figures 2-22 and 2-23).If the marks do not match, repeat the operation to install the belt, correcting the position of the camshaft pulley. If the marks coincide, adjust the belt tension and clearances in the valve mechanism, as indicated in the chapter “Features of engine repair”. Install and bolt the front toothed belt cover.Carefully fit the gasket into the groove of the cylinder head cover around the entire circumference. Install the cover on the cylinder head, put the rubber grommets on the studs and nuts with washers. If the bushings show signs of destruction, then replace them with new ones. Tighten the nuts evenly in several steps until the washer stops in the stud. Remember that the tightness of the cover depends on the carefulness of all operations on its installation.Install the spark plugs and coolant temperature gauge gauge into the cylinder head.Install the outlet pipe 2 (Fig. 2-10) of the cooling jacket with a gasket on the cylinder head and secure it with two nuts. Install the gasket and attach the coolant pump inlet pipe flange 3 to the cylinder block. Put the hoses going to the thermostat on the branch pipe and the inlet pipe, install the thermostat 4 and tighten the hoses with clamps.Install the accessory housing with an O-ring on the cylinder head and secure it with a bolt. When installing the housing, pay special attention to the position of the O-ring in the groove, as when tightening the bolt, the ring may jump out of the groove and bite between the groove edges and the surface of the cylinder head. If the O-ring shows biting marks, it must be replaced with a new one.Install the heat-insulating spacer with gaskets, the pusher and the fuel pump (see subsection “Installing the pump on the engine”).Lubricate with engine oil and slide the O-ring onto the spark torque sensor flange. Attach the sensor to the accessory housing so that the middle mark on the sensor flange is against the locating tab on the accessory housing (Figure 2-24). The sensor shaft is connected to the camshaft shank only in one position when the camshaft clutch cams enter the grooves of the camshaft shank.Rice. 2-24. Installation of the spark moment sensor. The arrow shows the locating protrusion on the housing of the auxiliary unitsAttach the power unit front suspension bracket to the cylinder block. Fix the tensioning bar 2 (Fig. 2-25) of the generator with an eye on the cylinder head and install the generator by attaching it to the tensioning bar and to the bracket 4 of the front suspension support of the power unit.Rice. 2-25. Generator installation: 1 - generator drive pulley; 2 - tension cap; 3 - generator; 4 - support bracket for the front suspension of the power unit; 5 - alternator drive beltSlide the generator drive pulley onto the crankshaft and secure it with a bolt and washer. Place the belt on the crankshaft and alternator pulleys and adjust the tension.Put a gasket on the cylinder head studs, install and secure the intake pipe with the carburetor intermediate lever bracket. Install the carburetor with the gasket, secure it with nuts and close the top with a process plug. Remember that tightening the nuts to the required torque should be done only on a cold carburetor (engine). The tightening torques of the carburetor mounting nuts are given in Appendix 1.Install the throttle rod by connecting it to the carburetor and to the intermediate arm on the intake manifold.Slide the crankcase ventilation hose onto the connections on the cylinder head cover and rear oil seal holder. Secure the hose with hose clamps. Install the oil level indicator.The upper part of the oil level gauge must be in a vertical position, since the gauge is curved and does not fit into the cylinder block in another position.Install the gasoline supply hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor and secure it with clamps. Install the spark moment sensor vacuum regulator hose and the crankcase ventilation hose from the cylinder head to the carburetor.Put on and fasten the heater hoses with clamps to the outlet pipe of the cylinder head and the inlet pipe of the coolant pump.