DIY Renault Symbol engine repair

- plugs on the ends of the camshafts;

- hole plug of the TDC position lock.

2. Install the camshafts with the grooves down as shown in the figure below.

4. Rotate the engine crankshaft counterclockwise (from the timing side) until the crankshaft rests against the TDC pin.

The grooves on the ends of the camshafts must be horizontal and offset downward relative to the axis, as shown in the figure.

5. Fit the flywheel locking tool (Mot. 582-01).

- crankshaft pulley to drive auxiliary equipment;

- the middle cover of the gas distribution mechanism drive (1);

- the top cover of the timing mechanism drive (2).

7. Unscrew the nut (3) on the idler pulley.

8. Remove the idler using tool Mot. 1368.

- timing belt;

- the camshaft pulleys using tool Mot. 1490.

10. Remove the parts shown in Figures 1-12. - Undo the bolts securing the air filter housing and remove the air filter housing.

- Remove the two bolts securing the throttle body and remove the air intake manifold.

- Remove the ignition coils.

- Unscrew the 24 bolts securing the cylinder head cover and then, tapping with a copper hammer on the projections (1), remove the cylinder head cover vertically upwards.

- Remove the intake and exhaust camshafts.

- Remove the rocker arms and hydraulic pushers. Caution: Place the hydraulic pushers in a vertical position to prevent oil leakage from them.

- Remove the two catalytic converter brace mounting bolts and remove the catalytic converter brace (see Fig. 8).

- Using tool Mot. 1495 remove the oxygen sensor; remove the exhaust manifold heat shields and the inner timing case spacer (see Fig. 8).

Remove the detachable part of the cooling jacket at the end of the cylinder head.

Remove the gas distribution rail.

Unscrew the 10 cylinder head bolts evenly, in several passes in the sequence shown in the figure. Remove the cylinder head and cylinder head gasket.

11. Using a valve puller, compress the valve springs.

- upper plates of valve springs;

- valve guide valve stem seals using pliers Mot. 1335.

13. Remove the casing and clutch disc.

Caution: To avoid cracks in the connecting rods, do not use a center punch to mark the lower end caps relative to the connecting rods. Use a permanent marker for this purpose.

Remove the crankshaft bearing caps (numbered 1 through 5).

Note: It is very important to mark the position of the crankshaft bushings, as they may be in different size groups for each bearing.

Removing the nozzles for cooling the piston crowns

1. Reamer the piston crown cooling nozzles (1) with a 7 mm drill.

Attention: Do not remove the ball (3) in order to

no chips have entered the oil channel.

3. Remove metal filings with a brush.

4. Screw the tool (1) (Mot. 1485 or Mot. 1485-01) into the injectors using a 6 mm Allen key (the wrench must be inserted into the tool).

5. Screw the inertia puller (1) (Emb. 880) onto the tool (Mot. 1485 or Mot. 1485-01).

It is very important not to allow damage (scratches, scoring) on ​​the mating surfaces of aluminum parts.

Use Decapjoint's special solvent to remove old gasket residues from the surface.

Apply this solvent to the area to be cleaned, wait about 10 minutes, and then remove the remaining gasket with a wooden trowel.

1. The camshafts are identified by the markings (A).

Details of labeling (A): - labels (B) and (C) are for the supplier only;

- the label (D) serves to identify the camshafts:

AM - intake camshaft; EM is the exhaust camshaft.

Axial clearance. 0.08 - 0.178 mm

Intake valves. 40.661 ± 0.03 mm

Exhaust valves. 40.038 ± 0.03 mm

2. Identification by the position of the cams. - Intake camshaft. Position groove 3 on the end of the camshaft horizontally and downward. Cams 1 of cylinder 1 should be to the left of vertical axis 2.

- Exhaust camshaft. Position groove 3 at the end of the horizontal camshaft and with an offset downward. Cams 2 of cylinder # 1 must be to the right of vertical axis 1.

Table. Diameter of the camshaft bearings in the cylinder head.

Flywheel side

Checking the diameters of the camshaft bearings in the cylinder head.

Table. Diameter of the camshaft journals.

Flywheel side

A 4 -1 = Cylinder 4 intake valve and cam # 1. E 4 -1 = Cylinder 4 exhaust valve and cam # 1.

Checking the axial play of the camshaft

- camshafts in the correct position;

- cylinder head cover; tighten the bolts of its fastening (for the order and tightening torques, see the table “Tightening order of the cylinder head cover bolts”).

Check the axial play, which should be between 0.08 - 0.178 mm.

Checking the diameters of the bearing journals of the camshafts.

Table. The order of tightening the cylinder head cover bolts.

Bolt Tightening Sequence

Bolt Loose Sequence

1 to 12, 14 to 19, 21 to 24

Note: Use tool Mot. 588 and secure it with the oil sump mounting bolts (1) and bushings (2) with the following dimensions:

- diameter of the hole for the bolt (1) 9 mm;

Remove the cylinder head cover and camshafts again.

Cylinder head gasket

The thickness of the cylinder head gasket is measured at point (A).

Thickness of cylinder head gasket: Thickness of new

sealing gasket. 0.96 ± 0.06 mm

Crimped spacer thickness. 0.93 ± 0.06 mm

Height "H" of the cylinder head. 137 mm

Allowable non-flatness of the mating

cylinder head surface. 0.05mm

No regrinding of the mating surface is allowed.

Check the cylinder head for possible cracks.

Tightening torques for spark plugs. 25 - 30 Nm

Check the flatness of the mating plane with a straight edge and a set of feelers.

Permissible non-flatness of the cylinder block mating surface. 0.03 mm

No regrinding of the mating surface is allowed.

This engine is equipped with hydraulic lifters (A) and single-arm roller levers (B).

Rod diameter “d” (measured at distance “X1”):

X1 (intake valve). 75.14 ± 0.35 mm

Inlet valve. 5.484 ± 0.01 mm

X1 (exhaust valve). 77.5 ± 0.35 mm

Exhaust valve. 5.473 ± 0.01 mm

Inlet valve. 32.7 ± 0.12 mm

Exhaust valve. 27.96 ± 0.12 mm

Intake and exhaust valves. 90 ° 15 ′

Exhaust valve. 107.64 mm

Seat angle a:

Intake and exhaust valves. 89 °

Chamfer width X:

Inlet valve. 1.3 +1.4 ₀ mm

Exhaust valve. 1.4 * 1 '3 about mm

Inlet valve. 33.542 ± 0.006 mm

Exhaust valve. 28.792 ± 0.006 mm

Valve guides

Intake and exhaust valves. 40.5 ± 0.15 mm

Guide bush outer diameter:

Intake and exhaust valves. 11 +0.068 +0.05 mm

Guide bush inner diameter: Inlet and outlet valves:

Not processed. 5 +0, 075 ₀ mm

Processed *. 5.5 +0.018 0 mm

* The hole in the guide sleeve is deployed to the specified size after the sleeve is pressed into the cylinder head. Diameter of the seat for the guide sleeve in the cylinder head:

Intake and exhaust valves. 11 mm

Valve stem seals (valve stem seals) are installed on the guide bushings of the inlet and outlet valves, simultaneously serving as lower supports for the valve springs. Inlet and outlet valve guide slope: Inlet valve. 63 ° 30 ′

Protrusion “A” of the intake and exhaust valve guides. 11 ± 0.15 mm

Checking the clearance between the rods and valve guides

There are two ways to check the clearance between the rods and the guide bushings of the caps.

Nominal clearance between guide bush and valve stem:

Inlet valve. 0.015 ± 0.048 mm

Exhaust valve. 0.029 ± 0.062 mm

1. Lift the valve head 25 mm, then use the indicator to measure the valve movement in the direction of the arrows at an angle of 90 ° to the camshaft axis. Half of this will give the clearance between the stem and the valve guide.

2. Measure the diameter of the valve stem and the inner diameter of the guide bush.

To install the valve stem seals, use tool Mot. 1511.

Note: Do not lubricate valve stem seals with oil prior to installation.

Installing new valve stem seals

Insert the valve into the cylinder head.

Put on the tip Mot. 1511 on the valve stem (the inside diameter of the tip must be the same as the stem diameter).

Keep the valve pressed against the seat. Install the valve stem oil seal (not lubricated with oil) onto the tip

Press down on the valve stem seal until it comes off the tip, then remove the tip.

Install the tappet (1) onto the valve stem valve stem seal.

Note: The inside diameter of the tappet must match the diameter of the valve stem. In addition, the bottom of the tappet should partially rest against the valve stem valve stem seal, which serves as the bottom seat washer for the valve spring.

Replace the oil seal by tapping the top of the tappet with your palm until the valve stem contacts the cylinder head.

Repeat the above steps for all valves.

Check spring calibration.

Free length. 41.30 mm

Fully compressed length. 23.20 mm

Repair of the K4J engine on Renault Symbol (3rd part)
Installing the timing belt

There is a good instruction here: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2629/html/sborka-dvigatelya.html

Original part numbers:
Pump - 7700274330
Timing kit - 7701471974
Exhaust valves - 7701473354
Valve seals - 7700103938
Cylinder head gasket kit - 7701471886
Exhaust manifold gasket - 8200365915
Cylinder head bolt kit - 7701471373

The design feature of the motors is that there are difficulties in self-service and repair of engines. The car operating instructions recommend changing only the engine oil yourself. Other work requires special equipment, tools and experience. However, it is possible to carry out some types of repair work on your own, and that's what we'll talk about.

Engine parts such as timing belts and auxiliary units, valve seals, pistons and piston rings have a certain resource. Spark plugs, fuel injectors, crankshaft oil seals and other powertrain parts. Any engine repair will require replacement of the head gaskets, oil pan and valve cover.

Power units with a volume of more than 2.5 liters are afraid of overheating of the motors, after which, in some cases, it will be necessary to change not only the gaskets, but also the deformed parts of the power unit. In order to fully develop the resource of the engine, you must carefully observe all the requirements for servicing the motors.

Not all car filling stations in the regions of the Russian Federation and many CIS countries are distinguished by the high quality of the fuel sold. Its poor quality leads to rapid coking of the piston rings, which leads to a loss of power and dynamic performance, so it will be useful to know how to decarbonize them.

De-carbonization means cleaning the combustion chamber from carbon deposits. This can be done in two ways:

1. Mechanical removal requiring disassembly of the motor.
2. Chemical cleaning of the combustion chamber.

The mechanical method is very laborious, since it will require a complete disassembly of the engine, chemical treatment of the combustion chamber is quite available for independent execution. It is usually carried out on the eve of an engine oil change. With gentle cleaning, the liquid is poured into the engine oil and after a run of about 200 km, the oil and filter are changed.

Rigid cleaning involves pouring cleaning fluid into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole. After 12 hours, it is thrown away by turning the crankshaft with the starter. Changing the engine oil in this case is also required.

The car may have other breakdowns, however, we will talk about them on occasion.

Repair of the K4J engine on Renault Symbol (1st part)
Lapping new valves.
There is a good instruction here: my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2629/html/sborka-dvigatelya.html

Original part numbers:
Pump - 7700274330
Timing kit - 7701471974
Exhaust valves - 7701473354
Valve seals - 7700103938
Cylinder head gasket kit - 7701471886
Exhaust manifold gasket - 8200365915
Cylinder head bolt kit - 7701471373

My timing belt broke, and the valves bent because of this.
Then the head has not yet been disassembled, it is not clear what is with the seats / guides and in what condition the pistons.
I am tormented by the question, if everything is slightly broken there, restrict myself only to replacing the valves, timing and pump, or is it better to look for a used head entirely ?!
Renault Simbol 2006 16 cl.

It's been a year since the bulkhead. I have driven 50 thousand since that time. The engine runs like clockwork.

Yes, this is understandable, some people just tell me that after the engine bulkhead and the cap. repair, it may not work correctly and fly again, and more than once. And that it is better to change the head entirely.

I also asked this question when the trouble happened, but only the "autopsy" will show the truth. In any case, the machine is still real estate, and in any case it needs to be disassembled, either for repair or for head replacement. And when you figure it out, then it will already be clear which is easier and which is cheaper.

hi, please tell me how you removed the valve stem seals.

I kept putting on new caps, so I didn’t regret the old ones. I picked out what I have to do :))

The grooves (counterbores) on the pistons are needed to bypass the valves during operation; when they are cut off, there is little sense from them.

Thank you, great video. Well done for telling the theory. Very helpful. Class. Thank you.

And why does the engine start worse each time? I changed the spark plugs, changed the fuel filter, checked the mesh filter for the fuel pump - clean, gasoline filled with 95, new oil, oil filter changed. It remains only to rinse the nozzles. Are there any other reasons why the engine is difficult to start?

Aleksey McOurin, my annual insurance has not ended yet.

I found the reason. Clogged throttle clearance. Washed. Now it starts up quietly and immediately. After being sealed with a red gasoline-resistant sealant, the tank no longer flows. For the cover, a puller was assembled from fasteners.

Den A sell it and buy another.

I'll try when I have spent the floor of the tank, it is already normal to seal it for a day without turning on the gas pump.

Somewhere from under the cover of the fuel pump pours. Replaced the cover with a sealing rubber. At the same time, I went through the thread with a sealant, just in case. After half an hour of torment, the lid finally twisted along the thread, and did not jump off it. You can tell from her when she spun to the end. I waited until the sealant dries up a little and drove to my yard. And I have an entrance to the courtyard at a 45-degree slope and parking at an angle. I decided to see if it was dry there or not.It leaked around the lid and squeezed out the sealant. I pumped it out and tightened it almost one more turn. The lid does not go further, but it seems to have stopped flowing (perhaps the gasoline level is already lower).

Excellent, but in too much detail, those who will change the valves themselves and so know it. And those who don't know watch more academic videos. What is the mileage? And the reason for the belt break?

Mileage 170 thousand. And the reason for the belt rupture is burned parts. I bought the original timing kit, the tension roller turned out to be with an imperceptible defect, the belt began to pull to the side, because of this it frayed and broke. Traveled a little over a week.

The instructions say “tightened to 20 Nm, then turn all bolts by 240 ° ± 6 ° in the same order” and you did 60 Nm. meter. Where is it written.? I also bent the valve and I don't know how to tighten the cylinder head

I did so at first, but 20 Nm is a very small effort. And when it reached 240 degrees, it felt like there was still twisting and turning, and almost by hand. According to the second instruction, when I was pulling 60 Nm, I made more than one full rotation of 360 degrees. I had new hairpins. So, see how it feels. In my case, 60 Nm was just right. Less was definitely not an option. And if you do it too little, it will be very bad. The oil and antifreeze will start to mix, and worse, they will start to get into the cylinders. Plus, the cylinder head gasket may burn out. So, as the saying goes, “it's better to overbid than to underboot")))

Read about the parsing of the Renault Symbol - see here. Videos and reviews on the maintenance and repair of a car with your own hands.

How to repair a car with your own hands at home. We will help ourselves to repair and repair the car ourselves. We know how to restore a car with minimal investment. I attach a video instruction.

Category: DIY repair

Posted by Admin: at Axel's request

Review of the car owner: - Excellent value for money. A practical car, no show-off, but at the same time its face is not as terrible as that of Logan. - good basic equipment, full-size spare wheel - large trunk - starts up well in cold weather (very good for Siberia) - comfortable driver's seat, instruments and the switches are all at hand, the legs are not cramped, there is nothing to rest against them.

Renault Clio Symbol / Symbol with petrol engines: К4J 1.4 l 16V (1390 cm³) 98 hp / 72 kW and K7J 1.4 l 8V (1390 cm³) 75 hp / 55 kW; Operation manual, maintenance and repair, complete technical specifications, wiring diagrams, body control dimensions, diagnostics, repair. Renault Symbol Clio of the first generation with sedan bodies from 2000 to 2008 (before and after restyling)

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