In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a dingo 125 snowmobile engine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
PREPARATION FOR OPERATION
Pre-trip check:
Check the snowmobile before riding. The points listed here take only a few minutes, but may result in
save time and ensure safety during your trip.
Check the fuel level. Brake - check, if necessary bleed the brake system (free play should
be 10-20 mm). Track - check for damage. Choke - check the throttle lever and cable attachment, and
free play of the throttle lever - if necessary, adjust or replace. Light - make sure it is working properly. Steering
mechanism - check the ease of turning and stability. Check the fuel line and make sure it is tight and
security. If the fuel line is old or cracked, replace it. When refueling, do not allow fuel to overfill the tank and
flow out of the neck. The electrical parts between the ignition coil and the spark plug must be tightly connected
avoidance of an accident.
Engine starting:
Never
do not run the engine in a closed
unventilated room. It is life-threatening.
Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to
position "ON". Press and hold the brake lever.
Move the engine shutdown button to position "
Check the position of the engine shut-off check
- it must be connected. Press the electric start button "
”And then lightly press down on the throttle lever to
fuel, the engine should start. The time for pressing the electric start button should not exceed 1-3 seconds. If
the engine does not start immediately, take a break of 30 seconds and try to start again, otherwise the battery
discharges too quickly. To start a cold engine, use the choke lever on the
carburetor. Before starting, it is necessary to move the lever up - close the air damper, after the engine
will begin to warm up, and the engine speed will fall, it is necessary to move the choke lever down - open
damper. If the engine speed drops when the throttle is opened, it means that it has not warmed up enough. On a warm engine
when the air damper is opened, the engine speed increases.
After the engine has started, the electric start button should be released immediately. When running
the engine, the electric start button must not be pressed, this will lead to damage. To extend the life of the engine,
after starting a cold engine, let it warm up. Do not force a cold engine.
Video (click to play). |
In my opinion, there should be engine protection from loose snow (it is the third ski), and a more powerful and most importantly quick-detachable battery should be in front. So that you can easily take the battery home for charging or at least in the warmth. Now, in order to remove it, you need to remove the seat, and unscrew the small screws-terminals in an uncomfortable position and in the cold, in the snow, and possibly in the dark, where these screws and nuts can easily get lost! I will replace this with plug-on clamps.
But in general, the first impression of the technology is not very bad in terms of the price / quality / efficiency ratio! As a motorcycle ski for fishermen-hunters, it is a very good solution and much more convenient than a motorcycle towing vehicle. And also for the owners of winter houses and summer cottages - as an assistant for trips, walks in the winter forest and just for fun - to ride the children.
On the internet, I also saw on sale a tracked unit for him, with an increased number of rollers, they write that it helps when driving over bumps, stumps and other off-road conditions. I do not see the need for such an upgrade for myself yet.
The next drawback came to light - after driving in wet snow, with snow and rain, something got wet (I suspect that some kind of relay), and froze in the morning. Result - the starter is not activated. The display is on, the electrician is working, but the starter itself is not. Warmed up with a hair dryer for 5 minutes - thawed out - started up immediately. Hence the recommendation - to cover the device with a cape when storing it outdoors.
In the T150 model, most of the identified shortcomings have already been corrected, a casing has appeared on the engine. But the price of the T150 is more than 2 times higher than the money for which I bought the T-125. I don't see any sense in exchanging one for the other.
- Insert the key into the ignition switch and turn it to the "ON" position.
- Press and hold the brake lever.
- Check the ignition off button on the steering wheel (right) it must be disabled.
- Check the position of the engine shut-off check - it must be connected.
- Press the electric start button -> press the fuel lever -> the engine should start. The time for pressing the button is no more than 1-3 seconds. If the engine does not work, take a break of 30 seconds and try again, otherwise the battery will quickly "drain".
Starting a cold engine snowmobile dingo t125:
- First, before starting the engine of the snowmobile, you must open the choke (lever down) on the dingo. Immediately after starting the snowmobile engine at idle speed, move the choke lever up.
- After starting the engine, the electric start button should be released immediately. When the engine is running, the electric start button must not be pressed, this will lead to damage.
- To increase the life of the engine snowmobile dingo, after a “cold start”, let it warm up. Do not force a cold engine.
P.S. This article about a snowmobile was provided before the winter of 2013-2014, and during this time a sufficient number of snowmobiles were sold in our store, and throughout the country their number has already exceeded tens of thousands of units. And they are all being exploited! But as in any technique, over the past winter some shortcomings were revealed that were corrected by the owners' own efforts, and future “dingovods” must know them! Explore!
So; disadvantages and ways to eliminate them on the Irbis Dingo T125 snowmobile. We will not look for the reasons for what, we will just try to cure it.
1. The most serious jamb in the T125 is the muffler. It burns out almost immediately, bursts during welding at the joints, and it happens that it just breaks. The surest and easiest way is to take it off and send it to a muffler repair shop. It is necessary to re-weld the seams or “wrap” and weld on a new “shirt”.
2. The ventilation system in the tank lid is faulty, therefore, gasoline does not enter the carburetor poorly (when the lid is opened, the sound of suction is heard). It's simple here; it is necessary to unbend two recessed antennae at the end of the lid itself or drill a small hole in it.
3. The windshield is frail and breaks during transportation. Conclusion; more accurate.
4. The instructions incorrectly describe the position of the petrol cock. The correct order is just the opposite; starting a cold engine - the faucet is up, after warming up - the faucet is lowered down.
5. A defect in the electronic instrument panel is possible. It is required to remove and remove the DZ8 Zener diode from the main board. Just evaporate, no jumpers.
6. Vibrations and unnecessary efforts will break off the gear shift shaft. Conclusion; neatly or cook by welding.
7. Rear brake frog freezes. As a rule, after 30 Celsius it is better to stay at home.
8. Small cracks in the skis. A trifle, it does not affect the speed, but it is better to treat it with a sealant or glue.
9. Poor contact in the handle heating button and the throttle cable freezes. Conclusion; we smear the cable VD-40, button contacts - lithol
10. The depth of snow for high-quality cross-country ability is 50 cm (knee-deep), then on "oneself" or next to it. Conclusion; we are looking for rolled tracks (buranka) or rivers.
11. Well, the caterpillar. If there is an incorrect tension and when driving with two “dense” passengers on a hard crust, it dies quickly enough.Periodic control or replacement at Rybinka is required.
And of course, irreplaceable advice; all threaded connections in the suspension and structure must be tightened with the help of engravers or poured with a thread lock (not fanatically, in order to unscrew later)
As you can see, there is nothing particularly criminal. The snowmobile is driven and chased by some “in the tail and in the mane” (up to 1500 km in a few months). You just need timely care and understanding that the equipment from the segment is an inexpensive snowmobile. Believe me, you will get much more pleasure from communicating with T125 and driving with your family on fresh snow and frozen rivers. And we note that the quality of the snowmobile is improving every year (amendments are made and shortcomings are eliminated) and, presumably, very soon a high-quality product will be provided with a minimum of attention and maximum pleasure.
And the winter of 2014-15 will be available to meet on a snowmobile Irbis Dingo; either the familiar T125, or the new T150 model with a more powerful engine, new suspension, lengthened track and automatic transmission (forward-neutral-backward), which means even easier handling, piloting convenience and resource. It's up to you to choose.
Information on the latest Dingo T150 snowmobile can be found here.
this one meant a stupid system. but better than nothing and no reverse.
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Attention, at the moment all the defects on the production T150 models have been fixed - everything is in perfect order with the new snowmobiles.
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The article describes how to fix the identified defects on old modifications of the Dingo T150 snowmobile:
Heated handlebars. When assembling the wiring, the “HI” and “LOW” modes were reversed. This defect is eliminated by replacing the orange and yellow wires in the green chip as shown in the picture. (picture 1)
Enrichment needle. A voltage of + 6V is applied to the needle of the enrichment instead of + 12V, as a result of which unstable operation of the engine is observed when it warms up at idle speed. To eliminate the defect, it is necessary to find the red connector in the wiring harness, cut and insulate one end of the yellow wire. Remove the insulation from the other end of the yellow wire as shown in the picture. (picture 2)
Prepare a wire with a length of at least 400mm, clean one end of the wire from insulation and connect to the yellow wire by means of soldering, as shown in the picture, and carefully insulate. (picture 3)
Next, you need to find the red and white wire in the connector, which is connected to the light control unit and carefully, without damaging the wire itself, strip it from the insulation, as shown in the picture. (picture 4)
After the insulation of the red-white wire is stripped, it is necessary to connect the second end of the long wire with the red-white wire by means of soldering and carefully insulate. (picture 5)
Attention! No twisting of wires is allowed!
Material provided by ITX Group
Dear Readers! I myself am an ordinary motorist and have never even thought about buying myself such a thing as a snowmobile. It's not even about the money and the place of storage of the device, but the fact that by the nature of my work I never needed it and as a way of entertainment I was also of little interest to me. The other day, my friend told me that he bought a snowmobile and offered to dig deeper with it and take a test drive, after which my opinion changed a little
I warn you right away that this is my first review of such a technique, before I wrote a little about other things, so please do not throw heavily rotten vegetables. The material is divided into 2 parts, because only 20 photos can be placed in one post
Engine: 4 t, 1 cylinder, 125 cc, 7.5 hp (5.2 kW)
Cooling: oil
Transmission: semi-automatic, 3 forward and 1 reverse gear
Brake system: hydraulic disc
Suspension: independent pendulum
Supply system: carburetor
Launch system: Electric starter + manual start option
Fuel: AI-92, 5L
Dimensions (edit): 2.51 x 0.98 x 1.01 m
Weight: 110 kg
Maximum load: 150 kg
Additionally: emergency engine shutdown system, heated grips, electronic dashboard, adjustable windshield, 2 roof racks
For myself, I previously imagined a snowmobile exclusively as rather bulky and not mobile machines that take up space almost like a small car and for the transportation of which it is necessary to have a trailer or at least a small truck where the snowmobile would fit. but Dingo T125 breaks these stereotypes. The snowmobile was developed by Russian engineers and assembled in China at the facilities of BEIJING IRBIS TRADING CO., LTD on the development and order of Irbis Motors LLC from Russia and is sold under the Irbis Dingo trademark. This is not the first model of a snowmobile, the Irbis Dingo T110 was previously produced, and the T125 was released in 2013 as a replacement for the T110.
When we arrived, the snowmobile was already assembled, and we took it on our own from the courtyard of the house to the area nearby, where we could ride. Although the snowmobile weighs only 110kg and it is quite possible to carry it together for short distances
Outwardly, it looks more like a motorcycle with skis than a snowmobile. The usual models of snowmobiles are more "down to earth", do not have such a clearance and a high riding position. In width, the "carcass" is also not so massive. It may seem like a child's snowmobile, but it is not at all true. Although the child can cope with this device too
In our case, we have a color combination of yellow and black. On the Internet and on sale, I also met a blue snowmobile of this model and a blue camouflage one.
Although the "car" may seem quite small, it is a full-fledged two-seater snowmobile. The manufacturer allows up to 150 kg of load, which is approximately equal to two not fattened adults or one very fattened one. However, two people who slightly exceed the total weight of 150 kg, our device pulls without problems. And that's not all. There is a hitch on the rear of the trunk that will allow you to attach a small sled to the snowmobile, which can be very useful for a fisherman, hunter or just for transporting something in snowy areas
For safety reasons, there are reflectors yellow on the sides at the front and back and red at the back. There is also a red marker light behind the seat. The rear rack with reflectors is removable. It can be removed if you do not plan to travel with luggage or together. The rear passenger is invited to hold onto either the front passenger or the trunk. When the trunk is removed, we will lose the trailer and mudguard, but the snowmobile will become a little shorter.
There is a small warning on the rear seat for those who do not read the manuals. Quite "captain's" warnings, which a more or less experienced driver already knows. Although some category of citizens do not say what the consequences do not frighten - just give a reason to "drive" drunk or stubborn. Well, at least since 2014, for these vehicles, you must have a VU. Previously taken for "blueprint" drivers bought themselves scooters and continued to be perfectly legal to be road users
For a person who has ridden a motorcycle before, it will be unusual to use a lever as an accelerator, which must be pressed with his thumb. At first, I just want to turn the right handlebar on myself. There is a speed limiter next to the accelerator that can be used for safety purposes.
On the left is the brake lever, the red engine ignition switch, and even below the red ignition button. Also on the left side of the steering wheel there is a light control switch and a grip heating switch. The latter function is quite useful for snowmobiles because in severe frosts, even good gloves do not always save you. The handles on the snowmobile fry great. Thin knitted gloves feel warm
The windshield can be removed or adjusted to suit your height. This is done with the key included in the kit.
The dashboard is not located in the gas tank. You can read more about all its capabilities in leadership... By the way, about the leadership. It is very detailed with pictures. Such "warm and lamp", so it is highly recommended for familiarization. The gear currently in use is shown above the panel display, there are only five positions - R (reverse gear), N (neutral) and 3 main gears. The exclamation point is a warning indicator that the engine is overheated and needs to "rest"
All the "stuffing" is located in one section, which in disassembled form can be transported in the trunk or even in the car. As mentioned above, our Dingo T125 sled is powered by a 4-stroke, 7 horsepower, 125cc engine. Someone might say that such an engine will be at the time of a children's snowmobile and will be right. Nevertheless, this engine is sufficient for our compact adult snowmobile, because the snowmobile itself is quite light and there is no need for excess power spent on compensating for its own weight.
Above the engine, closer to the seat, is a 12-volt, 9-amp-hour gel battery. Using this type of battery is a very rational solution. It will allow you to start in the most severe frost, and also will not lose its own in the event of an overturn, because the snowmobile still has a chance to "drop", but for a conventional lead-acid battery it is like death. It is these batteries that are installed on cars and motorcycles participating in various rallies and cross-country competitions.
Under the engine, you can see the exhaust manifold, which immediately goes into the muffler. From below he is defenseless, but before he can “catch” something, the frame must take the blow. On the right side of the photo you can see the same protective metal casing behind which the chain is located.
The legs for the legs are foldable, to change their position you need to press the button. The legs themselves are quite comfortable and the legs do not slip off them. I, as the owner of a foot of size 44, felt comfortable. But for the rear passenger there are no steps and he needs to put his feet on a galvanized surface, which protrudes slightly behind the seat.
The shocks are in body color for a more attractive appearance. There are also side reflectors at the front. In the photo below, you can also see one of the "lambs", thanks to which almost all the main components of the snowmobile are secured. In order to disassemble the snowmobile into its component parts for transportation, it is almost not necessary to use keys, 90% of the work is done by hand. A very detailed description of assembling and disassembling the snowmobile is described in the manual.
The headlamp is quite large, there is one 12v 55W lamp for low and high beam, a fairly common H4 socket.
The caterpillar is rubber-fabric, reinforced with brackets, which prevent its wear when rubbing with gears. The length of the caterpillar is more than 2 meters, the width is 0.38 m. Very decent width, just like a full size snowmobile. Given that the snowmobile itself is lightweight, this width should definitely not allow the snowmobile to fall anywhere. The snowmobile will pass where any other large snowmobile will pass. The tensioning mechanism is screw.
The size and width of the skis at 0.15m is encouraging. With these "snowshoes" the snowmobile should go anywhere
In the photo above, the snowmobile is standing on the snow that has fallen the other day;to the full height of the shoe, and the snowmobile, which weighs more than me, stands on soft snow as if on hard ground. All due to the correct weight distribution, which is provided by a wide track and skis
The snowmobile has another nice bonus - a saddle-rack. To open it, you need to slightly open the pocket on the left side and pull the lever.
There is a lot of space inside, you can put everything you need for the road. Even two 5L bottles will fit. For a long trip, it will be useful to take 2 of these "bubbles" with gasoline. The "glove compartment" itself is a metal folding structure covered with fabric, which protects the contents from the penetration of snow and dirt. Trunk folds down when dismantling the snowmobile