DIY engine repair Renault scenic

Renault Scenic 2 with an engine capacity of 1.6 liters is a fairly popular car brand among fans of family compact vans. This car largely repeated the basic design and technical features of the previous generation. The chassis was completely borrowed from the Scenic 1998 release. Designers and engineers have eliminated those shortcomings and miscalculations that took place in the first generation of this model. The frequency and nature of the breakdowns that occur do not fundamentally differ from other similar cars of the same brand. According to statistics, the models Scenic, Megan and Clio are among the most reliable vehicles of this brand, serious repairs of which are required in exceptional cases.

Renault Scenic engines of the second generation are traditionally reliable, however, when servicing and repairing power units, it is recommended to contact specialized specialists or service stations. For example, carrying out work on replacing the timing belt with a run of 50-60 thousand km with your own hands can lead to the fact that the position of the gear of the working shafts will be violated. Tightening the fastening bolts to secure it after an approximate eye adjustment is inappropriate, as the quality of such work will be of poor quality. In parallel with replacing the timing belt, experts recommend replacing the water pump. To ensure high quality of this type of repair and replacement of spare parts and consumables, special equipment, tools and appropriate conditions are required.

It should be noted that the Renault Scenic II 1.6 model, like other cars of this French brand, such as the Megan model, are very demanding on original consumables.

The use of products from other manufacturers significantly affects the operation of many components and mechanisms of these vehicles. Overhaul of the suspension of this Renault model may be required after 100,000 km.

Renault Scenic I with a 1.6-liter engine is also reliable, but some components have certain drawbacks, which were eliminated in the second generation of this model. Based on the operating experience of this car, we can conclude that an overhaul of the engine will be required with a mileage of about 500,000 km. Replacing the timing belt must also be carried out in special conditions by the hands of specialists.

Special attention should be paid to preventive maintenance of all units of the model of the first sample. Factory sealing defects appear rather quickly, and their elimination can be done with your own hands, having the skills to repair a car.

Also, often repair work requires stabilizer bushings. When replacing them, you will need the help of a specialist, and it will be difficult to do this work with your own hands even for a motorist with a certain experience. The rear suspension of the car has a torsion bar structure, and only a specialized specialist can understand it. Another common drawback is the rapid wear and tear of the front wheel bearings. The nature of such faults can be explained by the peculiarity of the front suspension, and the replacement of these parts can be done with your own hands in a garage.

If we compare the described Renault cars, then we can make a reasoned conclusion that the design of the second generation model takes into account most of the flaws on the part of engineers and designers. Disappeared such disadvantages as a low level of sealing, the quality of electrical wiring is an order of magnitude higher, in contrast to the previous model.The list of those works that can be performed by motorists on their own has been reduced.

For example, an operation such as flushing the injectors is required much more frequently in the second generation model, in contrast to the 1998 model. This is due to the more demanding fuel system of the updated car. While the work on changing the engine oil is easier to carry out on the new model due to the convenient location of the drain neck and many other factors.

According to the reviews of the masters at the branded service stations, the most problems arise with the cars of 1998 release. This is due not only to their age and high average total mileage, but also to the design features. The second-generation car is assembled with a better quality and unforeseen breakdowns or premature failure of one or another unit, assembly or part are much less common. As an additional example, experts cite an analogy with the evolution of Megan cars. The first models had a lot of shortcomings, but they were eliminated in the designs of the subsequent ones.

Towards the end of 1996, Renault showed off the Megane Scenic, a single-box based on the Megane golf-class hatchback. He was one of the "revolutionaries" of this class - like crossovers and off-road vehicles, that is, they have their own customers who do not need a heavy frame, a complex all-terrain transmission and super-large ground clearance, but only a "jeepar" look, and off-road capabilities a little better, or at the level of Zhiguli (that is, excellent for a passenger car, but not for a jeep), so similar minibuses immediately found customers! That is, customers who, although morally not ready for the "bus" size, heavy handling and similar "special effects", but who dream of having a lot of space in the back of a golf hatchback class, both for luggage, and above their heads and around. The hero of our review is ready to meet just such needs. By the way, for some reason, they did not come up with a new name for them, after all, there is an "SUV" and "crossover" / "SUV" ?! This comparison with jeeps is not without reason, because Renault made a double blow - having released not only the "Scenic" mega-wagon, but also the RX4 - a crossover based on it.

All engines are inline four-cylinder, with eight or sixteen valves, developed 64-140 hp. Gasoline engines had a 1.4-liter volume (75 hp or 95: eight or sixteen valves), 1.6 liter (75 or 90 hp with eight or 107-110 with sixteen valves), 2-liter (114 hp . or 138-140: eight or sixteen valves). And the diesel was all 1.9-liter and eight-valve - naturally aspirated versions produced 64 and 65 forces, and turbocharged 80, 95-98, 100-105 hp. As we can see, a wide range for such a car, which is more typical of the Germans, especially taking into account the all-wheel drive version of the PX4 - only the hot version is missing!

The stage was restyled in 1999. He got a different dashboard, new design headlights, and the front of the body. Also, the production of the all-wheel drive version of the RX4 (with a viscous coupling as the center differential) began with the ground clearance increased to 210 mm. And new versions of gasoline engines - sixteen-valve engines: 1.4-16v delivering 95 hp, and 1.6-16v with 107-110 hp.

New engines appeared on Scenic in 2000: a new version of a 2.0-liter gasoline engine with a return of 140 hp. (for RX4) and turbodiesel 1.9 L, 80 HP (dTi index) and 102 hp. (index dO).

And finally, in 2003, Renault Scenic II replaced the well-deserved Scenic First.

It should be noted that despite its friendliness and spaciousness, "Scenic" still does not match the comfort of middle-class sedans in terms of its comfort, so for long-distance travel you can find a car that is both quieter and softer (although, as anyone, comfort is a relative concept) ... well and in urban conditions it is just at its best: what its excellent review is worth.

The demand for the "Scenic" of the first generation, especially the restyled versions, today exceeds the supply, and in this regard, they do not stay on the market for a long time. For example, in Moscow, ten-year copies will cost 200-250 thousand rubles. With operating costs, how will it turn out: they often strictly depend on the literacy of the previous owner.

As mentioned above, the Scenic was equipped with a whole "near-German" range of motors ranging from 1.4-liter base to top-end two-liter, and almost all of them are found on the "secondary". We practically do not have diesel versions, and for good reason, since their restoration and maintenance require special qualifications, and even in the West there were "misunderstandings" and complaints about the reliability of later engines with direct injection of diesel fuel, which improves the efficiency and efficiency of the engine.

Attempts to replace the timing belt with your own hands under garage conditions on sixteen-valve engines often end in failure. The fact is that in these motors, the drive gears of the shafts are fixed in the required position exclusively due to friction, and the clamp is achieved by tightening the bolts. The bolt should be loosened, then the gear on the shaft begins to turn. It is pointless to expose it "by eye", since there is a set of special tools and devices. However, of course, only in a specialized service. This is exactly where you should contact, since it will cost much less than a potential overhaul of the motor if the experiment fails. Well, it is easier for the owners of "one-rolls", because these motors have the most common keyed fit. Changing the roller together with the belt is not only desirable, but also mandatory, as well as for prevention purposes and the pump, since this part is not too durable.

Another well-known "garage" trick is blowing out the valves with a hammer. The fact is, it is rarely possible to strike a blow strictly along the axis, and even a slight displacement is enough to leave a trace of a crack on the rod - a risk. This risk and then can "guarantee" a frantic consumption of oil for waste, namely every 1000 km over 1.5 liters.

Our tar-rich gasoline is capable of turning a pig on. It is necessary to keep the valve bushings under control, because they will accumulate a lot of thick ointment, then one day when the motor is started, the valve will not sit in the saddle, which threatens that the thin rod will bend from the impact of the piston. And in order to prevent this, it is periodically useful, every 30-45 tons. Km, to clean the carbon deposits by "flushing the injector". It is not recommended to fill the tank with any cleaning compounds. A sign that "raised mud" has reached the motor is the interruptions of the first nozzle, the fact is that it gets the largest amount of mud.

Further, one should not get carried away with washing the motor under pressure, especially the K4M sample, where the coils of the device are interconnected in pairs. A short circuit occurs due to moisture, which destroys them.

All gasoline engines start well, even in cold weather. They have few reasons for refusals. Sometimes the contact in the pads of the crankshaft position and engine temperature sensors disappears (here it is enough to squeeze the contacts), sometimes (on F3R motors) the wires of the latter can break off, and by 100 tons km the fuel pump, which is not separable, can probably clog with dirt.

On the F3R engine, an unstable idle speed can sometimes be eliminated by lightly hitting the valve or idle speed regulator. However, such a valve will not last long, so it is worth preparing a replacement for it. On the 1.6-liter K7M, the plastic choke gradually wears out. If, when the accelerator is released, the engine speed begins to fall below the permissible, then it may be time to change the unit.

Now let's look at the suspension. She is not the “Scene's” weak point. Most often, stabilizer bushings wear out in the front suspension, which let you know by tapping the struts. These parts are inexpensive. And a knock in the rear suspension indicates that either the silent blocks are worn out, or the bearing inside the beam, where the torus passes, or shock absorbers - the latter here do not work in the most favorable position from the point of view of the load on this part - at an angle.Since bulkheading the rear suspension beam is an expensive operation, due to this, many drivers simply “reach” the suspension for years, because the torsion bars have enough safety and stiffness in order not to fall apart.

On Scenes, the clutch unit serves for a long time, up to 180 t. Km. The gearbox is also pleasing with its reliability, except for the problem of oil leakage through the shaft seal of the speed selection rod that arises over time. Although it is expensive to change seals using factory technology, it is reliable. As a "pre-sale option" - glue from pieces. Some owners can cut and then splice the stem with a coupling: here the result directly depends on the experience of the master.

Oil can also leave the box through the boot-seal of the left SHRUS - after 60-120 tons. Km. Changing it is an easy task. But the outer covers will have to be put on or changed in the drive assembly through the CV joint, which is an expensive pleasure. You need to take care of them and remember one truth: "Scenic", although it has quite easy handling, is not a rally car, even in the all-wheel drive version.

Consider a very interesting modification of the RX4. Although ErX4 looks very tempting, not only thanks to the impressive wheels and ground clearance, but also the plastic body kit, but behind the flashy name 4x4 is nothing more than a passenger car for outdoor activities, for which deep mud and serious ravines are contraindicated, as well as fast driving , with sharp accelerations and lane changes. In our conditions, the support bearing of the propeller shaft is enough for about 30,000 km, and the expensive shaft will have to be replaced as an assembly. In addition, when the stability control system stops working, for example, if the ABS sensor fails, there is a great risk of not coping with control under slippery road conditions! The fact is that due to the connection of the rear axle, the behavior of the car changes dramatically. And because of this, it is wiser to opt for the more common "passenger" mono-drive version.

The steering here is reliable, but what about knocking in this unit, it is usually a consequence of dirt and torn anthers. Moreover, as it happens, the left boot is damaged, but the right support knocks, which is more loaded, so you need to look both ways. If the power steering began to "sweat", then you should not rush to change the oil seal. For, most likely, the matter is both in the wear of the sleeve bearing and in the misalignment of the shaft. There is one way out - add liquid as it is consumed. And do not overtighten the belt, otherwise this will cause its early replacement. A few words about handling and dynamics. Scenic, of course, is still not Megan, on the bases of which it is made, in contrast to it, it rolls more when cornering, and the steering wheel does not react so instantly to the driver's actions. Although this is if we approach the assessment of handling from the point of view that when assessing the golf class. But adjusted for the origin and class of this car, it even has a very good reactive effect on the steering wheel and its "purity". And what about acceleration, thanks to the rally or cargo reception, although Scenic has a slightly reduced maximum speed on the track, but the acceleration is peppy. The fact is that there is a shortened row in the transmission, and when an unloaded or half-empty car, acceleration will please.

When choosing a car, you should take a closer look at the braking system: are the discs covered from the inside with brake shields? If not, then you will have to change the inner pads at each maintenance, and the discs may suffer from a sandblasting attack. To install the shields, you will also have to replace the steering knuckles with those with holes. Therefore, it will be easier to find the "right" car. And do not forget that, unlike the simple Scenic, disc brakes were found at the rear on the ErX4.

Renault Scenic II (JM0 / 1_) 2003 - until now time

Renault Scenic became an offshoot of the Megan model. Created on the basis of a famous car, this compact van realizes the whole set of excellent consumer qualities.Do-it-yourself Renault Scenic repair is very simple, knowing the features of the car.

The Scenic, produced since 1996, was updated in 1999 to the second version. What users got:

• enlarged headlights;
• glass on the rear door opens separately;
• ergonomic interior solutions in the form of an armrest and a movable container in one, which can be moved from the driver to the rear seats.

Multifunctionality in this car is realized by increasing the wheelbase and track, as well as the volume of the luggage compartment.

The salon (by the way, here are the instructions for replacing the cabin filter) is spacious and has a lot of light, which is achieved by the presence of large windows and a sunroof.

The driver's seat became even more comfortable. The cushion is reduced and the gear lever is slightly closer than in previous models. Reno Scenic repair and operation implies that the seat has now become even higher, due to which good visibility is achieved.

Engines are borrowed from Renault Megane. Gasoline units with 16 valves and a volume of 1.4-2.0 liters are installed. Diesel version is also possible. Transmission - mechanical or automatic (5 and 4 steps, respectively).

The MacPherson strut front suspension and the four-torsion rear suspension give more stability to the car.

The scenic is considered one of the safest cars in this class:

In this way, DIY Renault Scenic repair will become a simple matter for you (for example, replacing the air filter) if you go to our website and look at the literature we have.

Removal and installation of a gasoline engine and a manual transmission

MODELS WITH ENGINES 1.4 AND 1.6 L

The engine together with the gearbox is removed from the engine compartment upwards, and then they are separated.

1. Disconnect the weight cable from the battery.

If the car radio in your car is coded, make sure you know the code before disconnecting the battery.

2. Remove the radiator as described in the Head Cooling, heating system. Also disconnect the upper hose from the thermostat shroud and the lower hose from the coolant pipe (refer to the accompanying illustration).

3. Drain the transmission oil as described in the Chapter Transmission (refer to the accompanying illustration).

4. If necessary, drain the engine oil as described in the Maintenance chapter.
5. Remove the hood as described in the Head Body.
6. Where applicable, unscrew the reinforcement bar between the front suspension strut domes.
7. Remove the air filter assembly as described in the Head of the Power supply system, release.
8. Cock the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and install it on the axle supports. Remove the front wheels and wheel arch liners. Where available, remove the engine undershield.

9. Unscrew the nut from the left tie rod end and disconnect it from the steering knuckle arm (refer to the accompanying illustration).

10. Remove the three bolts securing the left drive shaft inner rubber boot and metal ring to the transmission.

11a. Remove the two retaining bolts securing the left brake caliper to the steering knuckle.

11b. Remove the left brake caliper.

11c. Disconnect the wiring from the pad wear sensor. Tie the caliper to the suspension spring (refer to the illustrations).

12. Unscrew and remove the pinch bolt securing the left lower arm ball joint to the steering knuckle (refer to the accompanying illustration).

13a. Unscrew the nuts (note that the nuts are on the back of the casing).

13b. Unscrew and remove both bolts securing the left suspension strut to the steering knuckle (refer to illustrations).

14. Lower the lower suspension arm down, then separate the drive shaft from the differential drive wheel and remove it with the steering knuckle (refer to the accompanying illustration).

15a.Pin that secures the right drive shaft to the differential drive wheel shaft.

15b. Working under the vehicle, drive out the pin (refer to illustrations).

16. Unscrew the nut from the right end of the tie rod and disconnect it from the steering knuckle arm.
17. Unscrew and remove the upper bolt securing the RH strut to the steering knuckle (note the nut is at the rear). Then loosen (but do not remove) the bottom bolt.
18. Pull the drive shaft towards you and disconnect its inner end from the grooves on the differential drive wheel shaft. Hook the drive shaft to the steering gear.
19. Remove the front pipe and the catalytic converter as described in the Head of the Power supply system and release.

20a. Unscrew the screws and remove the plastic cover from the transmission base.

20b. Then mark the position of the selector shaft on the forks in the transmission.

20s. Then loosen the pinch bolt and split the stem (refer to illustrations).

21. Where equipped, separate the power steering hydraulic pipes from the transmission.

22a. Pull out the spring clip.

22b. Remove the vehicle speed sensor from the rear of the transmission (refer to illustrations).

23. Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch on the transmission (refer to the accompanying illustration).

24. On models without air conditioner, remove the pump and the reservoir of the power steering from the engine as described in the chapter Suspension and steering, but do not disconnect the hydraulic lines. Move the pump to the side (refer to the accompanying illustration).

25. On A / C models, remove the power steering pump pulley and move the A / C pump and compressor to the side, leaving the hoses attached.
26. Disconnect the gas pedal cable from the throttle body (refer to the Head of the Power supply system and release).
27. Disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission as described in the Head Coupling.

28. Disconnect the remaining hoses from the thermostat shroud and / or coolant pipe (where equipped) on the left side of the engine (expansion tank hose and heater hoses) (refer to accompanying illustration).

29. Unscrew the expansion tank and tie it to the left side of the engine compartment.

30a. Remove the top and side covers from the relay box on the left side of the engine compartment.

30b. Then loosen the relay board and wiring ties and place the wiring harness on the motor (refer to illustrations).

44a. Disconnect the starter wiring.

44b. Disconnect the earth cable from the cylinder block.

44s. Disconnect the cable holder from the transmission.

44d. Remove the front bottom nut.

44e. Remove the top bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Mark the position of the cable holder.

44f. Substitute supports and remove the upper transmission-to-engine bolts.

44g. Remove the nuts securing the transmission to the engine.

MODELS WITH ENGINES 2.0L

The engine, together with the gearbox, is lowered down from the engine compartment, and then they are separated.

On models with a driver's airbag, it is important not to damage the air bag rotary switch below the steering wheel. Before removing the steering column, the steering wheel must be locked with a special tool.

1.4L AND 1.6L PETROL ENGINES

1.6 l models:
With manual transmission
With automatic transmission

K7M 702, K7M 720, K7M 790 or K7M 791
K7M 703

E7J engines
K7M engines

E7J engines
K7M engines

E7J engines
K7M engines

1390 cm 3
1598 cm 3 Valve clearances (cold)
E7J engines K7M engines
Inlet valve 0.10mm 0.10 - 0.15mm
Outlet valve 0.25 mm 0.25 - 0.30 mm
(after installing new valves 0.20 - 0.25 mm)

E7J engines
Engines K7M 702 and K7M 703
Engines K7M 720 9.0 or
Engines K7M 790 and K7M 791

1-3-4-2 (# 1 cylinder flywheel / drive disk side)

Direction of rotation of the crankshaft

Clockwise as viewed from the pulley side

The power plant of RENAULT MEGANE vehicles is a liquid-cooled four-cylinder in-line engine mounted across the engine compartment. All engines have a gray cast iron cylinder block and a light metal alloy head. A five-bearing crankshaft is installed in the cylinder block. The advantages of a light metal cylinder head over a cast iron cylinder head are better thermal conductivity and reduced weight.

RENAULT MEGANE cars are equipped with three types of engines.

Type E engine (1.4 liter E7J petrol engine
This engine was put into operation in 1988 and received the designation "Energie-Motor" (E-engine) from the developers of RENAULT. The intake and exhaust valves on these engines are V-shaped relative to each other and are driven by rocker arms from the camshaft.

The design of the cylinder head is based on the so-called transverse principle, when the air-fuel mixture is injected from one side, and the exhaust gases are discharged from the opposite side into the exhaust manifold. This ensures fast gas exchange.

Steel sleeves washed with coolant are inserted into the piston channels of the cast-iron cylinder block. In this regard, these liners received the designation "wet". Liners can be replaced with new liners in the event of wear or grooves in the cylinder walls. In this case, however, it will be necessary to replace the pistons with new ones. In the lower part of the cylinder block, the crankshaft is located on the main bearings. The connection with the pistons is provided by connecting rods mounted on the connecting rod journals with liners. The crankcase of the cylinder block is an oil bath, which contains the engine oil necessary for lubrication and cooling of rubbing engine parts. The cylinder head is bolted to the cylinder block.

The engine is lubricated by a gear oil pump built into the cylinder block. The oil pump is driven from the crankshaft by means of a roller chain. The engine oil taken from the oil pan is fed through the oil holes to the crankshaft and camshaft bearings, as well as to the cylinder liners and rocker arm bearings.

The water pump is also located on the cylinder block and is driven by a toothed belt from the camshaft. It must be remembered that the cooling system must have a coolant all year round, which is a mixture of antifreeze, anti-corrosion additives and distilled water. The high voltage distributor for the maintenance-free electronic ignition system is fixed to the cylinder head flange and is driven by the camshaft.

Type F engine (F3R / F3R 2 liter petrol engine, 1.9 liter F8Q / F9Q diesel engine)
Different models of RENAULT cars have been equipped with an engine of this type since 1983. The cylinder block for this type of engine is made of gray cast iron with non-removable cylinder liners. In this case, when they are worn out or grooved in a specialized workshop, honing can be performed with the subsequent installation of pistons with an oversized repair size.

The camshaft is located in a light metal cylinder head and is driven by a toothed belt from the crankshaft. The camshaft, in turn, drives the vertically positioned intake and exhaust valves via poppet tappets. The valve clearance is adjusted using appropriately sized insert washers that fit into the poppet tappets.

Engines with 16 valves are equipped with two camshafts, respectively, for the intake and exhaust valves.There are 4 valves per cylinder - 2 inlet and 2 outlet. The valves are installed in a V-shape and are actuated by hydraulic tappets. In this case, the valve clearance is automatically adjusted. The exhaust valves are filled with sodium for increased durability.

The oil pump in the crankcase is driven from the intermediate shaft by means of a toothed belt, which is also mounted on the camshaft.

The water pump is located on the block of cylinders and is driven by a V-belt, which simultaneously rotates the generator.

The ignition and fuel systems are completely electronic and service consists of changing spark plugs and filter.

Type K engine (gasoline engine K4J / K4M / K7M with a displacement of 1.6 liters)
This engine is a modification of the E engine and entered service in 1995. However, unlike the E engine, this engine has non-removable cylinder liners, which made it possible to reduce the distance between the cylinders and increase the diameter of the piston bore. This, in turn, provided an increase in displacement from 1.4 liters to 1.6 liters without changing the size of the engine.

The change in the preparation of the air-fuel mixture in combination with its multipoint injection using an ignition system without a distributor provided an increase in the power characteristics of the engine.

The 1.4 and 1.6 liter petrol engines with the designation K4J and K4M represent the latest development for the second generation of MEGANE. Both models of these engines are 16-valve. The valves are driven by two overhead distribution pads. The camshafts are driven by a toothed belt.

The ignition system of these engines is completely electronic and requires no maintenance. Each cylinder has a separate ignition coil located directly on the corresponding spark plug. The wire that usually connects the spark plug and the ignition coil is missing in this case.

DCi 1.9 liter engine (diesel engine with direct injection from main line)
The fuel pump for this type of engine takes diesel fuel from the tank and, even at low engine speeds, pumps it with a constant pressure of approximately 1350 bar.

From the fuel pump there is a main fuel line connected to each cylinder. The main fuel line is at the same time an accumulator that maintains a constant fuel pressure and supplies it under this pressure to the fuel injectors.

The amount of fuel required for injection is set by the engine control unit and is injected by electromagnetic injectors into each cylinder. As soon as the microprocessor of the control unit closes the injectors, the fuel supply is stopped. In other words, pressure build-up and fuel injection are performed independently of each other, thereby optimizing fuel consumption and CO content in the exhaust gases, regardless of engine speed.

Fuel injection is carried out in two stages using multi-jet nozzles. First, a small amount of fuel is pre-injected, the combustion of which creates better conditions for igniting the main portion of the mixture. Thus, a soft and quiet combustion process is achieved, identical to the process that occurs when fuel is injected into the vortex chamber. Unlike other types of engines with direct injection of fuel with cam distribution, the fuel supply to the combustion chambers of dCi engines can be changed in accordance with the needs at a particular moment of travel.

Engine identification
To identify the engine, a rectangular plate is attached to the front of the engine next to the oil dipstick.

The top line of this plate shows the type of engine, the bottom line shows the identification number, which is the current production number.

The engine designation is made in the form of a combination of two letters and one number, for example, F3R.

Renault Scenic belongs to the golf class one-volume minivan. It combines the functionality of a minivan and the comfort of a sedan. In the Russian automotive market, only Renault Scenic is sold in a five-seater version. This model is equipped with two petrol engines: 1.6 liter (100 HP) or 2.9 liter (140 HP). The first type of engine is aggregated with a manual 6-speed gearbox, and the second type - with a CVT variator.

Front wheel drive implies certain difficulties when carrying out renovation Renault Scenic and other front wheel drive models. The interior can be chosen depending on the configuration: Authentique, Expression or Privilege. The stage differs from other minivans in an innovative approach to comfort indicators: good illumination, which is provided by a panoramic sunroof (1.61 square meters) during the day, and 17 light sources at night; spaciousness, which is achieved due to the increased width of the cabin and the high roof; the convenience of the location of the main buttons, main devices, liquid crystal screens.

The 16-valve gasoline engines of this model are reliable and durable. They are capable of passing 450-500 thousand km without major repairs. The main attention should be paid to the timely replacement of the timing belt after 60 thousand kilometers. Moreover, it is imperative to change all the videos at the same time. Scenic engines have one feature - the absence of marks on the pulleys and body. Therefore, for the correct adjustment of the valve timing, the use of special devices is required: crankshaft and camshaft clamps; a set of socket and ring wrenches, a 6 mm hexagon, screwdrivers and other tools.

And incorrect positions of the crankshaft and camshaft, after replacing the belt, will instantly lead to costly renovation Renault Scenic due to breakage of parts of the gas distribution mechanism. Work can only be carried out on a hydraulic lift, as it will require a slight lifting of the engine. Often, the Scenic engine requires repair of the water pump, which is very capricious to the quality of antifreeze or antifreeze. Our experience shows that its most frequent failures are observed with a mileage of 80-100 thousand km. To prevent serious damage, it is advisable to change it together with the timing belt. Agree that the fulfillment of such requirements is within the power of only a specialized Renault car service.

The transmission is also quite reliable, therefore Renault Scenic repair, which requires intervention in its operation, consists in monitoring the oil level in the manual transmission, timely replacement of filters and elimination of oil seal leaks. If you do everything on time, a long-term manual transmission service is guaranteed. Automation is also reliable, but sometimes problems arise with electronics that cannot withstand the influence of our climate.

But Renault car service specialists are familiar with the methods of restoring the operating characteristics of the electronic unit of the Renault Scenic automatic transmission. Serious repairs to the running gear of this model may only be required after 100,000 km. Car owners who stick to a measured ride also achieve better results.

Turning to the Renault Repair technical center, you have the right to hope for the quick help of experienced specialists, as well as an individual approach to each Renault Scenic car owner.

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Including fast drying with CarFon hairdryer.Read More

Diagnostics of the condition of the machine before buyingRead More

We recommend it every time you go through the service.

The work will be much easier if the motor is mounted on a special portable bed. Remove the flywheel / drive plate before installing the engine on the bed so that the page bolts can be screwed into the cylinder block.
If the bed is not available, the engine can be disassembled on a sturdy work bench or on the floor. Be extremely careful not to topple or drop the engine when working without a bed.
Before disassembling the engine or replacing it with an already remanufactured unit, remove all external components:

a) Alternator and brackets.
b) Distributor (where applicable), high voltage wires and spark plugs (see Chapters Maintenance).
c) Thermostat and cover (refer to the Head Cooling, heating system).
d) Fuel injection system equipment.
e) Intake pipe and exhaust manifold.
f) Oil filter.

g) Engine mounts, lifting eyes and hose brackets (refer to accompanying illustration).

h) Accessory brackets (power steering pump, air conditioning compressor (refer to accompanying illustration).

i) Unscrew the bolt on the K7M engine.

j) Oil filler pipe and dipstick (refer to illustrations).

k) Remove the O-ring.

l) Coolant pipes and hoses (refer to illustrations).

a) Alternator bracket.
b) Fuel injection pump and its bracket, fuel injectors and glow plugs.
c) Thermostat and cover (refer to the Head Cooling, heating system).
d) Turbocharger (where applicable - refer to the Head of the Power supply system and release).
e) The inlet pipeline and the exhaust manifold (refer to the Head of the Power supply system and release).
f) Oil cooler.
g) Engine mounts, lifting eyes and hose brackets.
h) Auxiliary brackets (power steering pump, air conditioning compressor).
i) The switch of the control lamp of pressure of oil and the sensor of level of oil (where applicable) (Address to the Head the Electric equipment of the engine).
j) Coolant temperature sensors (refer to the Head Cooling system, heating).
k) Wire harnesses and their brackets.
l) Pipes and hoses of the cooling system (refer to the Head Cooling system, heating).
m) Oil filler pipe and dipstick.
n) Coupling (refer to the Head Coupling) .

When removing external components from the engine, pay particular attention to parts that may be useful or important during installation. Notice the correct location of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins, washers, bolts and other small components.

If an “incomplete” engine was purchased for replacement (ie, an assembly of the cylinder block, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods), it is necessary to remove the cylinder head, oil pan, oil pump and toothed drive belt from the old engine.
If you are planning a complete overhaul, the engine can be disassembled and internal components removed in the following order: