Do-it-yourself engine repair uaz 3303

Legendary Ulyanovsk plant

The Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant has produced many vehicles that have forever entered the history of the domestic automotive industry. "Loafs", patriots, "bobby" - most of the cars are intended for gas services, ambulance services, police, riot police, etc. UAZ Patriot is now popular as an all-wheel drive SUV capable of overcoming any obstacles. The plant released from under its wing a lot of minibuses, small trucks and cars with four-wheel drive.

The motors of these cars are powerful, strong and reliable. The main reason for their breakdown is usually the large age of the UAZ. In the most common UAZ 3303 models, the 417 engine is installed. In order to repair the UAZ 417 engine with your own hands or its bulkhead, you should not wait until all parts are completely worn out. The first signs of an imminent breakdown may be the following:

• oil consumption has increased significantly;
• the motor is smoking;
• fuel consumption has increased significantly;
• engine power has dropped;
• the motor makes various suspicious sounds: knocks, squeaks and noises.

Each UAZ car has its own engine. For the UAZ 469 engine, a modification of the UMZ-451MI was first created, later upgraded to the UMZ 417 engine.

UAZ 3303 is a cross-country vehicle. When overcoming various obstacles, the engine is overloaded the most. It is easy to buy spare parts for this car, both new and used ones.

Pistons and liners are destroyed due to frequent overheating of the engine when driving off-road. Many owners of UAZ 3303 change the entire engine, rather than subject it to repair. If the car owner undertakes to repair the engine with his own hands, he must understand that this requires some experience.

Reanimating the engine, returning it to its original agility and obedience will help changing unusable parts or restoring them. All parts must be of the correct size. Stores offer a wide variety of pistons, piston rings, intake and exhaust valve seats, and crankshaft connecting rod bearing inserts. The size of the detail can be checked with sales consultants.

Bulkhead uazovsky motor

Engine wear is significantly affected by the deterioration of lubrication of rubbing surfaces, which depends on an increase or decrease in clearances. To reassemble the motor with your own hands, you first need to dismantle it. This is done as follows:

• drain antifreeze and oil from the pan;
• separate the air intake filter and disconnect the muffler pipe from the engine;
• disconnect the pipes of the cooling system, oil cooler and heaters from the engine;
• remove the radiator of the cooling system;
• separate the throttle and air thrust rods from the carburetor;
• remove all wiring from the motor;
• unscrew the bolts of the lower and front cushions of the supports.

Now he removes the engine from the UAZ 3303. For this, a bracket specially designed for this is installed on the pins of the block head. The motor must be jacked up and the gearbox must be separated from it. The motor can be removed by lifting it up.

Other actions will lead to the fact that, along with the engine, you will have to get the transfer case and gearbox.

Before proceeding with the disassembly with your own hands, the motor should be carefully cleaned of fuel oil and slag. Dismantling requires special tool kits such as 2216-B and 2216-M.

All serviceable parts must be cleaned and replaced or marked with markers or stickers to avoid confusion in the future.In the event of any breakdown or malfunction, the connecting rods and caps should not be disconnected from them. When changing the crankcase, you need to measure the angle of connection of the crankshaft axis with the rear end of the crankcase. Next, remove the clutch and determine the indicator post on the edge of the crankshaft. The swing radius of the edge of the crankcase and the slot should be approximately 0.1 mm.

After cleaning, all parts of the motor must be degreased. Carbon deposits can be gently cleaned off with a knife or other hard object. There is another, easier and safer way. To clean aluminum parts, you need to prepare the following solution:

• 10 g of laundry or other alkaline soap;
• 18 g soda ash;
• 8 g of liquid glass;
• 1 liter of water heated to 90 ° C.

For cleaning steel parts, this solution is suitable:

• 25 g of caustic soda;
• 30 g of soda ash;
• 5 g of laundry or other alkaline soap;
• 1.5 g of liquid glass;
• 1 liter of pure water at a temperature of 90 ° C.

When the parts are clean, they must be rinsed in clean water and dried. When assembling the UAZ 3303 engine, certain rules should be followed:

• all parts subject to friction during operation must be lubricated with engine oil;
• all new threaded parts must be installed on the red lead;
• use nitro varnish with integral parts;
• a torque wrench should be used when tightening nuts and bolts.

The cylinder block is the simplest component of the engine. Problems in its work arise due to wear and tear of the components. Therefore, you just need to replace the old worn out parts with new or repaired ones.

The sleeves need to be replaced more often than the rest of the parts. An erased part can be considered when the gap between the skirt and the sleeve increases to 1/3 mm. The height of the liner protrusion in the cylinder block should be no more than 0.05 mm and no less than 0.005 mm. If the protrusion is too small, then the antifreeze will definitely end up in the combustion chamber, which will be the result of a breakdown. The liner size is measured excluding the O-ring. Liners in the cylinder block are fixed with washers and bushings. It is better to replace too bored sleeves with new ones.

The cause of a cylinder block breakdown may be deformation of the abutment surface to the block, complete abrasion of the valve guides and seats. The distortion of the plane of the head should not exceed 0.5 mm. Otherwise, the head must be polished.

The condition of the piston rings should be monitored. It is better to change them every 80 thousand km of the rally. Each piston has 2 compression rings and 1 oil scraper. Due to the grooves on the inner surface of the ring, excess oil is removed from the system when the piston is lifted up.

When only the rings need to be replaced, but not the piston itself, carbon deposits must be cleaned from the annular scars in its piston head. It is important to do this with care to avoid damaging the side walls. A 3 mm drill can be used to remove carbon deposits from the oil drain holes. The speed limit should not exceed 50 km / h during the first 1000 km.

When the groove of the upper piston ring or the piston skirt is worn out, replace the piston itself. New parts to be installed in the cylinders must be of nominal size. The best option is when a new set of pistons is larger, this will close the gap with an incompletely worn cylinder. The pistons are sorted by the outer diameter of the skirt. The size can be found on the bottom of the piston.

Connecting rod repair consists of replacing and cleaning the bushing of the upper head. The repair sleeves are made of 1 mm thick bronze strip. When pressing another bushing into the connecting rod, it is necessary to ensure that the bores of the bushing and the upper connecting rod head are duplicated. The holes are there for the oil to flow to the piston pin. The inner surface of the pressed-in sleeve can be tamped with a flat plug. The original diameter should be 24 mm.

On the other hand, the sleeve needs to be designed for a repair gauge.When in the connecting rods the slots for the bushings in the lower head have more than 0.05 mm ovality, it will be easier to replace them.

The piston pins can be changed without pre-machining the piston bores. It is better to use parts with a larger diameter. The diameter of the fingers should not be more than 0.1 mm, otherwise the holes will have to be processed in advance.

Before pressing the gudgeon pin in, remove the pin circlips from the piston with pliers. In this situation, the piston must heat up to 70 ° C in a container with water. The restoration of the piston pins is carried out by grinding them to a slightly smaller size or chrome plating, and then polishing to the indicated parameters. If the piston pins are cracked or chipped, they cannot be repaired.

The gap between the piston pins and the connecting rod head is 0.007 mm. Lubricate the piston pin with a low viscosity oil. In practice, the piston is very easy to select. At room temperature, the finger should not fit into the piston from the force of the hand. But if the piston is heated to 70 ° C, then under slight pressure it easily enters there. If you press the pin at room temperature, there is a risk of damage to the bore and the piston itself.

All cleaned or replaced parts are reinstalled into place. When the engine is fully assembled, it must be balanced. Neither side with new pistons should outweigh the other by more than 8 g. The circlips must be tightly fitted in the grooves. To avoid complications, pistons can be purchased complete with finger and rings.

After a major overhaul, it is important not to overload the UAZ 3303 engine with intensive work for the first 1000 km. All new installed parts must be worn in and rubbed in.

Changing the oil in the engine and in the box is one of the important procedures to ensure the stable operation of the car. It is necessary to change the lubricant in a timely manner, use high-quality fuel and undergo a technical inspection on time.

Camshaft (new). Made of cast iron, these camshafts are available for ZMZ-402 engines. There are two reasons for using it. Bleached cast iron has a very high hardness and corresponding wear resistance. But the main reason is that the cams of this shaft are made with a steeper profile compared to the UAZ camshaft, and at the same time, naturally, the filling of the cylinders is improved.

Engine block. Apparently, “in search of pressure,” the nuts on the covers of the main bearing beds were tightened so that the covers were pressed into the block by a few tenths of a millimeter. And, as a result, the beds themselves were pushed through by inserts. And when, in all likelihood, they found that the shaft was not "tossing and turning", they put brackets under the covers. This, yes, plus, an oil pump worn out in the "trash" and is the explanation of the riddle with pressure.

Rear axle (new), both axle shafts were set in the lathe, in the centers, the fender mating plane with the hub, on the left axle shaft, had practically no beats. And on the right one there were beats of 0.3 mm, by means of simple mathematical calculations, you can find out what beats will be at the end of the semi-axis, if its length is 650 mm, the diameter of the flange is 100 mm, and mentally imagine what stresses the semi-axis undergoes, rigidly fixed at both ends.
If these planes of the semiaxes are not corrected, then one of the "sores" of the UAZ will certainly appear; the tightening of the bolts and securing the axle shafts will be constantly loosened. In order to finally get away from this problem, on the hubs of the front and rear axles, in place of the standard bolts, we used studs with a standard thread on one side and with a thread with a pitch of 1.25 mm on the other.

Nuts with a thread with a pitch of 1.25 mm, had to be applied, on a 15 mm wrench, and then when tightening, the edges of the nuts must be oriented tangentially to the circumference of the hub, otherwise the wheel disks do not pass.
Differential bearings, had to be adjusted again, were overtightened, as well as on the front axle.
Two more brackets were welded to the rear axle for additional shock absorbers.

Gearbox (new) synchronized on all four gears. When, after the purchase, we opened the gearbox cover, we were pleasantly surprised, this is a fundamentally new unit, (our "Russians" can do "things").
By the standards of the old box, huge synchronizers, reinforced gears, and intuitively, I liked the box very much. But these are emotions, further operation will show how good it is, but for now, I enjoy driving a car, without overgasm.

Transfer case (new), the same as it was, there is nothing to choose from, although there is, the first "razdatka" that was purchased, had to be exchanged, a tooth, some kind of gear was not cut radially, hence there were jamming. And when the flange of the rear axle cardan was removed from the exchanged "hand-out", the oil seal spring was found inside the box, at first they thought that it had slipped off the oil seal, but when they opened the back cover, they saw that the spring at the oil seal was in place.
Apparently, the "caring" manufacturers put in a "spare". If it gets into the cavity of the box, there could be trouble.

Engine block (new)... It turned out that the unit was purchased the same without a flywheel casing, out of the four casing available, one was chosen, and then, for alignment, pins had to be made with an offset of 0.6 mm.
The threads were cut in the block, for the head mounting studs, with a diameter of 12 mm. With standard eleven-millimeter ones, with a step of 1 mm, it is impossible to normally stretch the block head. Washers for this interface were made of steel 40 XH, 5mm thick and 26mm outer diameter. Moreover, they are used without any preliminary heat treatment. The holes for the studs in the block head were bored to 13 mm.
Bolts with a diameter of 10 mm, with a standard thread, for fastening the flywheel casing and engine support legs, were made of bolts, fastening the block bed covers, VAZ cars. From under the standard ones, with 14 mm heads, when broaching, squeezes the grover washers. (I must say, this drawback manifests itself on all UAZ units, therefore, it was made for a dozen of such bolts.)

Engine suspension. Instead of the front, standard, engine mountings, pillows from the GAZ-3102 were used. The vibration transmitted from the engine to the frame has been drastically reduced. In the future, I'm going to remake the rear suspension units, but at the same time, I will have to install two longitudinal jet rods, so that, with sharp braking, the engine will not shift forward.

Pump (water pump). The housing, bored for the installation, of two 603 bearings, after boring it was put on a mandrel, and all the fender flats were corrected, especially this relates to the plane of interface with the oil seal, it must also be polished.
The impeller blades were welded in height and ground to a clearance between them and the cover plane, 0.5 mm.
The pump pulley was made anew, with a diameter of 100 mm and for two belts, the crankshaft pulley with a diameter of 160 mm was similarly made. The fact is that for the normal operation of the 1000 watt generator, which we used, one belt is not enough.

And one more goal that we pursued, changing the diameters of the pulleys, is to increase the speed of the pump and, accordingly, the fan, to increase the efficiency of the cooling and heating systems.

Brake system. What was modified in it was a vacuum amplifier was installed (it was not there before the repair) and instead of the standard working cylinders, self-diluting "Volgovskiye" were used.
As I mentioned earlier, the brake drums were machined. After this minimum of modifications, the brakes became just a "fairy tale".

Gas drive. In the engine power system, a K-151 carburetor was used, so it was decided to perform the drive with a cable. This made it possible to remove backlash in the gas drive and get rid of the "heap of unnecessary pieces of iron".

For this, a pulley was made with two rivulets, diameters of 45 and 115 mm, for the return spring cable and the cable for the drive of the carburetor flaps. A 90-degree segment was cut out of the pulley and attached to the accelerator pedal shaft, next to the tunnel wall, closer to the driver's side.
On the wall itself, a stop was fixed, under the bowden of the cable and an adjusting screw of the return spring.
On the carburetor mounting studs, a homemade bracket with an emphasis was installed, similar to the "Volgovsky".
The use of pulleys in the gas drive gave a linear relationship between the deflection of the gas pedal and the opening of the carburetor throttle valves, plus the smoothness and softness of the gas pedal stroke.

Air filter. The filter element, due to the very limited space of the engine compartment, used a flat, square shape. They are produced for injection engines, VAZ cars. Despite their compactness, they have high filtering properties and low resistance to air flow.
The filter housing was made with a common platform for the carburetor and the filter element, so that the filter element stood above the valve cover. The air flow into the filter is directed from the bottom along the engine, thereby solving the problem with heating the intake air. The only thing that had to be redone in this case was the engine bonnet hinges.

Control mechanism, gearbox.

The lower part of the intermediate levers has been cut and lengthened: the selector lever 40 mm, the selector lever 60 mm.
With a slightly increased effort on the gear lever, this gave a very noticeable decrease in its travel, and since the adjustment limits have not a bad range, it became possible to adjust the position of the lever so that the control of the gearbox becomes quite comfortable.
Of course, when you have to be behind the wheel of a car for a very long time, along with reliability and safety, the question of ease of use arises, and this question develops from a whole complex of conditions. Quite a large part of them, we were able to implement, based on our own experience, something, we simply could not foresee, and something remained unfulfilled due to a lack of finances and time. And so on, what we managed to bring to life.

Heating system. The van is heated by a heater, based on a four-row UAZ radiator, involved in two strokes, i.e. the air flow to the "suction" fan enters through one half, and from the "pressure" of the fan passes through the other. The cabin is warm enough, but in the future it is planned to heat the van, with an external air intake, in order to ventilate the cabin.
In the cab, a heater from a GAZ-3307 car is installed, made in a plastic case, based on a radiator similar to a heater radiator for VAZ cars of a classic layout. With two centrifugal fans, it cannot be compared with the standard heater of the UAZ, which, with its “deceptive” axial fan, can hardly be called anything else other than a mockery.

In order for the two heaters not to mutually interfere with each other's work, two separate radiator power loops were created. The direct branch of the cab heater power supply is connected as standard, i.e. from above, into the block head, above the fourth cylinder.

Return to the union located on the water pump housing.

The power supply for the radiator of the "stove" of the van is carried out somewhat differently. Straight branch, connected to a nipple screwed into a cover mounted on the back of the block head, instead of a metal plug. "Return", to the tee cut into the return branch of the cooling radiator.
Also, in the heating system, there are fittings for connecting an autonomous antifreeze heater, the heater itself is available and checked at the stand, but has not yet been installed.

Car suspension... As I mentioned earlier, brackets were additionally welded on the rear axle for attaching two more shock absorbers, since the cabin is heavy and subject to rocking, and 15 leaf springs are recruited for the rear suspension.
The front suspension has not undergone any changes, except that one more leaf has been added to the springs.
I must say that when the car was dismantled before being repaired, it was discovered that there were springs on the front suspension; on the left side 13 and on the right 14 sheets. The springs on the rear suspension were similarly, only for a turn; from the left 14 and from the right 13 sheets.
Shock absorbers for UAZ, it is better to use family, double-acting, they work much more efficiently single-acting shock absorbers, Gazelle cars and the like.

Steering. While it has remained unchanged, of course, there is a temptation to establish a power steering, but there is also a question of financial problems, in general, this question is still open.

Electrical equipment... If you describe what has been done and what else is planned, it will be a very large volume, since this topic concerns a lot, from mechanics to electronics.

Therefore, I will briefly describe the main change; in place of the standard one, a 90-ampere generator and two batteries were installed (one as a standard one for the operation of the car's electrical equipment, the second for ensuring the start-up and operation of the antifreeze heater and as a power source for country trips). The generator is larger than the standard one, so 1100 mm belts had to be used.

Lubrication. After running-in, any high-quality oil, up to synthetic oil, can be poured into the engine lubrication system, depending on climatic conditions and material condition. But it must be remembered that the better the oil is used, the greater the engine "mileage" to the cap. repair, and these are already incommensurable costs in comparison with the price, even of the most expensive oil.
The same applies to the transmission, i.e. the better the oil is poured into the bridges and boxes, the more they "come out".
But for the lubrication of CV joints and wheel hubs, we used specially prepared oil mixtures. The knuckles were packed with a mixture of equal weight proportions; SHRUS grease, KONSOL firm and TC-p10 transmission oil.
In the wheel hubs, in the corner of the shoulder of the seats, under the brake drum, and the wheel disc, holes were drilled, with an inclination of about 45 degrees, and an M-6 thread was cut for the syringe fitting and the plug. After adjusting the bearings to dry, through these holes, inside the hub, a mixture of "Litola" and TC-p10 was pressed in, the same in equal proportions.

Body, Salon

Reutov Konstantin Borisovich aka [skdingo]
Russia, Krasnoyarsk kr.
Kansk

UAZ cars are very popular in Russia, and in Soviet times the UAZ was out of competition - foreign SUVs were extremely rare in the Soviet Union at that time. But since the machines are often operated in difficult conditions, it is necessary to regularly repair components and assemblies, and repairing the UAZ engine is a relevant topic that interests many.

• motors are not complex;
• spare parts are available and are in stock at many auto dealerships;
• engine parts are inexpensive.

The engines of the Ulyanovsk plant have their own characteristic "diseases", and not all car owners leave their "native" engine - they put internal combustion engines from other car models. In this article, we will consider the features of UAZ engine repair, typical engine malfunctions, as well as possible options for replacing UAZoav power units.

UMP begins its history in 1944, when a joint-stock company was created by the order of the People's Commissar. At first, the plant produced small-displacement engines for charging batteries and mobile power plants, and the first automobile internal combustion engine rolled off the assembly line in 1969.

The motor was named UMZ 451, and had a lot in common with the power unit of the Volga GAZ 21. Since 1971, the ICE 451 was modernized, and it received the 451M index, this engine was awarded the “Quality Mark”.In the late 70s and early 80s of the last century, the UMZ-414 ICE was installed on the UAZ 469 ("goat") and UAZ 452 ("loaf") cars, and since 1989, the UMP 417 with a capacity of 90 liters has been produced. With.

Until the mid-90s, all Ulyanovsk engines had a volume of 2.445 liters, as well as a cylinder diameter of 92 mm. In 1996, the production of the UMZ-421 ICE began, this power unit was distinguished by a cylinder diameter increased to 100 mm and a large volume (2.89 liters). Since 1997, the Ulyanovsk plant has been supplying power units for GAZ vehicles, and these are models:

• 4215;
• 4213;
• 4216 in various modifications;
• Evotech 2.7.

The engine of the Ulyanovsk plant, model 417, is produced in various modifications, has an aluminum block and a cylinder head, 4 cylinders in one row, 2 valves per cylinder. "417th" engines have a carburetor fuel system:

• a single-chamber carburetor is installed on modification 417;
• UMZ-4178 is equipped with a two-chamber carburetor.

The technical characteristics of the UMZ-417 are as follows:

• volume - 2445 cm³;
• power - 90 liters. With.;
• piston diameter - 92 mm;
• compression ratio (compression in cylinders) - 7.1;
• piston stroke - 92 mm;
• type of fuel used - gasoline A-76.

The UMZ-417 internal combustion engine, in addition to 4178, also has other modifications:

• 4175 - an engine designed to use AI-92 gasoline (98 hp, compression ratio - 8.2);
• 10-10 - ICE with a block head from model 421 and with a rubber rear oil seal.

The UMZ-421 engine has been produced since 1996, it is installed on Ulyanovsk models:

Instead of stuffing box packing, this motor uses a rubber oil seal as the rear crankshaft seal. This motor has the following characteristics:

• volume - 2890 cm³;
• power - 98 liters. With.;
• piston diameter - 100 mm;
• compression ratio (compression in cylinders) - 8.2;
• piston stroke - 92 mm;
• the type of fuel used is AI-92 gasoline.

There is also a version of the internal combustion engine designed for A-76 gasoline fuel, the power of such a power unit is 91 liters. With. (respectively, the compression ratio is 7.0). UMZ-421 motors are equipped with K-151E carburetors.

The UAZ Patriot, which is widely popular in Russia, has been produced since 2005, but unlike all other Ulyanovsk-made cars, this model has no "native" engines - the SUV is equipped with ZMZ and Iveco engines. Only one type of gasoline engines is installed on the Patriot as standard - 3MZ 409.10 with a volume of 2.7 liters and a capacity of 128 liters. With. This engine has taken root so well on the UAZ that it is sometimes called the UAZ 409.

The engines of the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant are distinguished by their simplicity of design and high maintainability, and since UMP engines are simple, many drivers repair UAZ engines with their own hands. Overhaul is always carried out with the removal and installation of the power unit, disassembly and assembly of the internal combustion engine, so that the engine works for a long time after repair, it is necessary to correctly troubleshoot.

What to consider when doing self-repair:

We disassemble the removed engine as follows (consider the example of the UMZ-417 engine):

• disconnect the manifold assembly with the carburetor from the block head. The two inner nuts are most difficult to crawl, so you should use a socket wrench (standard nuts are usually 14 mm);
• remove the valve cover (6 screws or bolts);
• dismantle the distributor drive, remove the two side covers of the pushers;
• unscrew the nuts securing the rocker arm axle (4 pcs.), remove the axle. We take out the rods (there are 8 of them), and then the pushers (also 8 pcs.);
• we unscrew the cylinder head fastening nuts, dismantle the block head. The head can sit tightly, but you do not need to apply much effort to remove it, and when removing it, you should try not to damage the surface of the cylinder head;
• why do we remove the crankshaft pulley, turn off the ratchet. It can be unscrewed with sharp hammer blows in a counterclockwise direction;
• then the hub should be dismantled; to remove it, you must use a special factory or homemade puller.When dismantling, it is necessary to secure the crankshaft from rotation;
• the next step is to remove the pallet (oil sump). After unscrewing all the nuts, gently knock on the pallet with a hammer, and if the crankcase does not come off, you can pry it with a screwdriver, pushing it between the block and the plane of the pallet. You should not regret the gasket (it is still a replacement), the main thing is not to damage the surfaces of the parts;
• remove the oil pump, it is supported by four nuts;
• dismantle the camshaft cover (unscrew 7 nuts);
• we turn off the connecting rod nuts, dismantle the connecting rod caps, take out the pistons together with the connecting rods. It is necessary to dismantle one connecting rod at a time and immediately bait the covers in place - the covers should not be confused with each other, they are not interchangeable;
• we unscrew the nuts of the main covers, dismantle the covers, take out the crankshaft assembly with the gear, flywheel and clutch;
• we turn the camshaft so that bolts appear under the holes in the camshaft. With a socket wrench, unscrew the two bolts by 12, dismantle the camshaft together with the gear.

Now it remains to disassemble the details:

• disconnect the manifold from the block head;
• dry up the valve;
• remove the clutch, gear and flywheel from the crankshaft;
• dismantle the gear from the camshaft;
• disconnect the pistons from the connecting rods.

Disassembly is complete, you can start troubleshooting parts.

Often on the old "UAZ" the engine completely depletes its resource, and then the car owners have a very reasonable question - how to replace the old engine. Installing an engine on the UAZ 402 is the most reasonable solution:

• the ZMZ-402 engine is more reliable than the "UAZ" one, and many such used engines in good enough condition are sold by hand;
• a minimum of alterations will be required for replacement - the Zavolzhsky ICE fits all mountings.

The "four hundred and second" engine has another very big plus - it will be the cheapest of all the proposed options that may exist when replacing the engine with a UAZ.

The installation of the ZMZ 406/405/409 engine on the UAZ will be somewhat more expensive. These motors are also suitable for mountings, but you will have to:

• deal with electrical wiring;
• adjust the front exhaust pipe.

In general, there are not many alterations either, but the 406 motors themselves are a little more expensive. There are UAZ car owners who install imported diesel engines on the car, but here you have to make a lot of changes to the design:

• remodel the exhaust system;
• digest motor and gearbox mounts;
• completely throw the wires;
• adjust the water connections in places.