In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the td 27 engine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Interested in the opinion of people who understand the question - is it really possible to master the TD27 capital yourself? We have a garage, a minimum of tools (necessary to buy), a hole, hands from the right place, existential, manual.
Do I need to remove the motor and how to get by with a little blood?
The reasons that give rise to such thoughts are tripping during warming up (and certainly gray smoke!) And abundant blow-by gases, which, in my opinion, throw oil wherever possible - into the dipstick, and into the intake tract and press from the oil seals. I cleaned and rinsed the ventilation system with diesel fuel “as best I could”, it does not help.
_________________ After the race, the judges call the pilots one by one and say nasty things; and the navigator are sitting in a group and are worried. North-Off-Road: off-road driving of the North
Interested in the opinion of people who understand the question - is it really possible to master the TD27 capital yourself? We have a garage, a minimum of tools (necessary to buy), a hole, hands from the right place, existential, manual.
Do I need to remove the motor and how to get by with a little blood?
The reasons that give rise to such thoughts are tripping during warming up (and certainly gray smoke!) And abundant blow-by gases, which, in my opinion, throw oil wherever possible - into the dipstick, and into the intake tract and press from the oil seals. I cleaned and rinsed the ventilation system with diesel fuel “as best I could”, it does not help.
Is quite real. When I needed this procedure myself (the crankshaft knocked) I did not believe that I would succeed. But in a couple of days I threw off the entire engine. Before starting the repair, so as not to remove the engine, I was offered to disassemble the entire front suspension in order to throw off the pallet, but it seemed to me very crap and I climbed onto the car from above. For some procedures, an assistant may be needed, but it is quite possible to do without him. So good luck!
Video (click to play).
_________________ 1994 TD27T LBYD21
_________________ After the race, the judges call the pilots one by one and say nasty things; and the navigator are sitting in a group and are worried. North-Off-Road: off-road driving of the North
_________________ don’t give a shot, Slavik. (With)
I will add a strip of tin, roll it into a glass around the piston with a slight overlap, then put rings on the piston and pull the rings from the outside with a clamp from the drive anther, and then install a piece of the shovel handle in place and on the piston and carefully with a hammer on it, the connecting rod is better to reorient as needed so that later from below not karyachitsya to unfold and even rest against the calender can. Good luck - the eyes are afraid the hands are doing.
_________________ "TERRASHA", 92, 5d, TD42, manual transmission, 35x12.5 MT, Come Up 19000, snork _____________________________________ Where the road ends, life begins.
_________________ Terrano '86 TD27
According to the moim, it is easier to unhook the box and two bolts of the engine support and pull out the engine, for this you need a loop on the ceiling and a manual winch. and then it's easier to work with the engine than jumping into a hole from a hole
_________________ "TERRASHA", 92, 5d, TD42, manual transmission, 35x12.5 MT, Come Up 19000, snork _____________________________________ Where the road ends, life begins.
"Do I need to remove the motor and how to get by with a little blood?" (WITH) “Maybe now I’ll ask stupidity)) how to“ stick ”a piston with new rings into it when you install it back into it?” (WITH)
"Do I need to remove the motor and how to get by with a little blood?" (WITH) “Maybe now I’ll ask stupidity)) how to“ stick ”a piston with new rings into it when you install it back into it?” (WITH)
I agree, but not in everything. When I was shooting and disassembling the engine, I did it for the first time and my assistant was a book "Nissan Terrano 1989-1994". only on rare occasions did I need help, but only physical. And I fully support you that you must first clearly define your capabilities (physical, financial) And all this IMHO.
_________________ 1994 TD27T LBYD21
According to the moim, it is easier to unhook the box and two bolts of the engine support and pull out the engine, for this you need a loop on the ceiling and a manual winch. and then it's easier to work with the engine than jumping into a hole from a hole
And with the engine removed, how to work? Hang it up or lay it on its side? Before this, the crankshaft pulley must be removed. On the removed engine, how to lock it to remove the pulley? honestly, I have no idea how to fix the removed engine so that it would be convenient to work with it. This is a mount for installing the engine on the branded service stations. (all of the above is not a statement, but thoughts aloud) To gain access to the crankcase, you need to remove the front differential and everything is not as scary as it seems.
Repair it yourself, but it is desirable that, as they say, a person is at hand, if something is not clear, he could advise on the spot and a good (detailed) manual (which is hard to find). The head of the block will still have to be given for grinding, and whoever grinds them to you and will sort it out (guides, valves, valve grinding, etc.), if you do not rummage yourself.
_________________ TERRANO, 1992, Z24, gaz, sold
_________________ After the race, the judges call the pilots one by one and say nasty things; and the navigator are sitting in a group and are worried. North-Off-Road: off-road driving of the North
“There are a lot of questions, while I was writing, I forgot half of them” (C)
Repair of piston and KV does not differ from gasoline. The main thing is to observe the tightening torques of the connecting rods and KV caps and correctly orient the pistons relative to the engine front, and not to confuse the KV and connecting rods caps. You can read how to make this part of the repair in any book on auto, even in Zhigulevskaya - everything is accessible and understandable there, and having gained knowledge, you can easily transfer it to your engine, given its specifics in the manual.
I am not familiar with your diesel, but I have capitalized many others, both gasoline and diesel. If you have questions - write to the soap, than I can - I will help. They don't ask for money for demand
Message zhekm »25 Mar 2011, 12:57
VovaTV, I'm talking about "useful links" there with prices you can decide whether you are offered expensive spare parts or not
Added after 2 minutes 4 seconds:
Message VovaTV »25 Mar 2011, 17:14
Thanks for the link, I will definitely download it (count 150 rubles. I saved it), maybe I’ll rock the Atlas one, if I find a link and it doesn’t weigh much (expensive GPRS), if not, I’ll buy it later.
At the prices for the piston principle, I realized that it is not cheap, but not expensive either, to study an alternative and you can take
By the way, can you tell me how to unscrew the bolt of the KV pulley on the removed block in the least hymoric way?
Message _sergeevich_ »27 Mar 2011, 18:23
I made capital to the engine 2 years ago, the situation was the same. I bought liners and pistons in the PRC, later they dissuaded me from putting Chinese liners, in the end I gave the block to the bore for the repair piston, but on the 2nd cylinder I still had to change the liner to China and bore it under the rem. piston because Before the repair, the retaining ring of the pin fell out and the pin created a ditch in the cylinder. One of these days I am going to take off my head, tk. one of the Chinese valves has ripped open (be it wrong) and I'll see how things are going there. Mileage after capital 25000 km
Added after 5 minutes 34 seconds:
VovaTV: Thank you for the link, I will definitely download it (count 150 rubles. I saved it), maybe I'll swing the Atlas one, if I find a link and doesn't weigh much (expensive GPRS), if not, I'll buy it later.
At the prices for the piston principle, I realized that it is not cheap, but not expensive either, to study an alternative and you can take
By the way, can you tell me how to unscrew the bolt of the KV pulley on the removed block in the least hymoric way?
Message VovaTV »28 Mar 2011, 13:27
_sergeevich_, Hey. Be sure to write down what is there with the Chinese sleeve?
I unscrewed the nut and knocked out the sleeves. Now all the iron is mine (oh, and the same hassle.)
Message _sergeevich_ »28 March 2011, 15:22
VovaTV: _sergeevich_, Hey. Be sure to write down what is there with the Chinese sleeve?
I unscrewed the nut and knocked out the sleeves. Now all the iron is mine (oh, and the same hassle.)
Message zhekm »28 Mar 2011, 15:54
Message VovaTV »28 Mar 2011, 15:56
In the sense of a manufacturer? I think I can’t pull the original. Taiwan some sort. Well, or experienced ones will prompt a company with an optimal price-quality ratio.
He removed the sleeves with destruction, sharpened the screwdriver well and took a small hammer
I walked around the block for a long time trying on, and then “closing my eyes” began to act. In principle, everything went pretty easily.
Without removing the block, I think it is possible, but the metal garbage is filled incredibly, it is all the same to throw off the knee and wash, wash, wash.
PS: Here they write in the prices for rings, liners and STD pistons - is this a type of standard size? And on the sleeves they write FF and SF, how to understand it?
Message zhekm »28 Mar 2011, 16:09
Message _sergeevich_ »28 Mar 2011, 16:49
It will not work out in detail, tk. it has been a long time since that moment. And in short: I bought a book on repairing Legion Avtodata, a torque wrench, gave the block and the shaft to the bore to a competent borer, be sure to grind the plane of the cylinder head, wash everything with gasoline and blow it before assembly. All stages of repair and tightening torques are described in the book. If I was tormented by doubts before a particular assembly operation, I consulted with knowledgeable people. If you have any questions, ask. To be honest, there is nothing complicated about it, if you have even small skills in tightening nuts, accuracy and a great desire
Added after 12 minutes 18 seconds:
VovaTV: You mean a manufacturer? I think I can’t pull the original. Taiwan some sort. Well, or experienced ones will prompt a company with an optimal price-quality ratio.
He removed the sleeves with destruction, sharpened the screwdriver well and took a small hammer
I walked around the block for a long time trying on, and then “closing my eyes” began to act. In principle, everything went pretty easily.
Without removing the block, I think it is possible, but the metal garbage is filled incredibly, it is all the same to throw off the knee and wash, wash, wash.
PS: Here they write in the prices for rings, liners and STD pistons - is this a type of standard size? And on the sleeves they write FF and SF, how to understand it?
Now I looked at exist.ru, there are such price tags for the original: piston 5400 sleeves of 3150 each rings 3500 connecting rod bushing 150-200
in principle, normal, everything comes out about 20 tr. I think it's better than buying a contract engine for 50-60t.r. or assembled unit for 15-25t.r. of course, provided that everything is OK with the rest of the units After such a repair and with proper operation of the engine, it will be enough, if not until retirement, but for a long time
For myself, I put a sleeve from the kit in a red IZUMI box (most likely a fake) 300 yuan A piston of a similar company and at the same price, TP rings are also for 300 yuan (according to which the Chinese assured that the company), although on average RIK rings cost 50-60 yuan
I was driving along the highway on my terrano and then it neatly died out. No knocking, nothing. It did not start. Later it turned out that the two middle cylinders were lifted up, which was explained by the lack of oil, but the sensor was silent, bastard! The car is 90 years old, there is no money to buy and change a dviglo. Attention is the question: will he live after the capital, what to look for during repairs and what nuances can there be? Ride after renovation or tries to the market? Is it possible to find a used injection pump for such an old engine without electronics, so that it is fresher?
I bought it a couple of months ago, only took a new rubber and put a snorkel from RIF, I like the car madly, I don't want to lose!
No need to gloat, I'm not funny, but I looked at the probe the day before. Maybe 4500 rpm is too much for a diesel?
I immediately rejected comments on replacing it with a contract engine - there are no funds, a question on a loan is impossible. Only renovation.
No need to gloat, I'm not funny, but I looked at the probe the day before. Maybe 4500 rpm is too much for a diesel?
I immediately rejected comments on replacing it with a contract engine - there are no funds, a question on a loan is impossible. Only renovation.
This is some kind of scribe. Firstly - 4500 for the old TD27 - death, even without convulsions. Secondly, first calculate the overhaul and compare it with the price of the contract engine, and then draw conclusions. I think the amounts will surprise you.
About the oil. Tell me, why the hell did you pour synthetics into the ancient diesel engine? and synthetic bridges? With you, it will simply disappear from the engine, and even at 4500 rpm. Water will get into the bridges, sooner or later. Therefore, synthetic nafig is not needed in a diesel engine, so there are only show-off. Better a simple mineral and change more often.
At first, at high revs and under load, the TD27 engine began to pull poorly and smoke gray, especially when you go up the hill ... Then he began to smoke and on a flat road, then the revolutions began to float. Already, I barely made it to the service.
We examined the Nissan Atlas flatbed truck and decided to start with the high-pressure fuel pump mesh and clean the tank first.
So it turned out, the whole big problem is due to the small filter mesh.
We also installed a coarse fuel filter on the tank and changed the standard fuel filter, which was also clogged with paraffin and mud.
Voila, in two hours the faithful Nissan Atlas is ready to make money for the owner again! 🙂
Special thanks to the owner of the truck for their trust and gratitude!
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The TD27 engine was created for mid-size sea and river vessels, therefore it runs on diesel fuel, has a huge safety margin, rotation from the crankshaft to the camshaft is transmitted by a gear, and not by a belt. Nissan has decided to use the TD series on several minivan and SUV models.
The atmospheric version was used very rarely, mainly on Nissan Atlas, more often modifications of the turbo TD27T, TD27ET and TD27ETi were used.
Originally in a 2.7 L TD series engine from Nissan to achieve 85 hp. With. and 216 Nm technical solutions were used:
in-line four-cylinder engine;
cast iron cylinder head head and gear transmission from the crankshaft to the camshaft and injection pump;
valve drive by rocker arms and rods according to the OHV gas distribution scheme;
vortex combustion chamber.
Since there is no chain / belt drive, the TD27 diesel does not bend the valve. The result is a "loud" but very reliable atmospheric internal combustion engine for heavy vehicles operating in difficult conditions. Inside the TD series, the developers have been able to increase power due to the fact that the cylinder displacement has become larger.
For more detailed information, all technical characteristics of the TD27 are collected in the table:
cylinder head - three stages 20 Nm, 69 - 85 Nm + 90 ° + 90 °
Periodically, the owner serves the engine with his own hands or at a service station, less often overhaul is carried out, some motorists carry out modernization to improve the parameters of the internal combustion engine. All the information necessary for this - the timing of replacing antifreeze, oil and other consumables, step-by-step steps for disassembly and assembly - is collected in the manual.
Designed for the harsh operating conditions of boats, the TD27 engine includes the following designs:
nodular cast iron cylinder head;
stamped steel cylinder head cover;
cast iron cylinder block with liners made of the same structural material, which allows multiple overhauls;
gas distribution system according to the OHV scheme with a lower camshaft, rocker arms and pushers;
transmission of rotation from the crankshaft to the injection pump and the camshaft by gears.
An important feature of the ShPG is the presence of at least 5 variants of the piston groove under the external vortex combustion chamber. The user manual includes a description of the maintenance and repair of the diesel engine. It is possible to force the diesel engine on its own, but only by installing a turbocharger.
In addition to the basic version of the naturally aspirated TD27 diesel engine, there are turbocharged modifications:
TD27T - turbine without air cooler, power 98.6 liters. sec., torque 230 Nm;
TD27ti - additional attachments are used - intercooler, power and torque are 123 hp. With. and 242 Nm, respectively;
TD27eti - the intercooler is electronically controlled, the torque is increased to 279 Nm, the power is 130 hp. with., consumption of diesel fuel within 11 liters and 14 liters (highway / city, respectively).
