In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the td 27 engine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Interested in the opinion of people who understand the question - is it really possible to master the TD27 capital yourself? We have a garage, a minimum of tools (necessary to buy), a hole, hands from the right place, existential, manual.
Do I need to remove the motor and how to get by with a little blood?
The reasons that give rise to such thoughts are tripping during warming up (and certainly gray smoke!) And abundant blow-by gases, which, in my opinion, throw oil wherever possible - into the dipstick, and into the intake tract and press from the oil seals. I cleaned and rinsed the ventilation system with diesel fuel “as best I could”, it does not help.
_________________
After the race, the judges call the pilots one by one and say nasty things; and the navigator are sitting in a group and are worried.
North-Off-Road: off-road driving of the North
Interested in the opinion of people who understand the question - is it really possible to master the TD27 capital yourself? We have a garage, a minimum of tools (necessary to buy), a hole, hands from the right place, existential, manual.
Do I need to remove the motor and how to get by with a little blood?
The reasons that give rise to such thoughts are tripping during warming up (and certainly gray smoke!) And abundant blow-by gases, which, in my opinion, throw oil wherever possible - into the dipstick, and into the intake tract and press from the oil seals. I cleaned and rinsed the ventilation system with diesel fuel “as best I could”, it does not help.
Is quite real. When I needed this procedure myself (the crankshaft knocked) I did not believe that I would succeed. But in a couple of days I threw off the entire engine. Before starting the repair, so as not to remove the engine, I was offered to disassemble the entire front suspension in order to throw off the pallet, but it seemed to me very crap and I climbed onto the car from above.
For some procedures, an assistant may be needed, but it is quite possible to do without him.
So good luck!
Video (click to play). |
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1994 TD27T LBYD21
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After the race, the judges call the pilots one by one and say nasty things; and the navigator are sitting in a group and are worried.
North-Off-Road: off-road driving of the North
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don’t give a shot, Slavik. (With)
I will add a strip of tin, roll it into a glass around the piston with a slight overlap, then put rings on the piston and pull the rings from the outside with a clamp from the drive anther, and then install a piece of the shovel handle in place and on the piston and carefully with a hammer on it, the connecting rod is better to reorient as needed so that later from below not karyachitsya to unfold and even rest against the calender can. Good luck - the eyes are afraid the hands are doing.
_________________
"TERRASHA", 92, 5d, TD42, manual transmission,
35x12.5 MT, Come Up 19000, snork
_____________________________________
Where the road ends, life begins.
_________________
Terrano '86 TD27
According to the moim, it is easier to unhook the box and two bolts of the engine support and pull out the engine, for this you need a loop on the ceiling and a manual winch. and then it's easier to work with the engine than jumping into a hole from a hole
_________________
"TERRASHA", 92, 5d, TD42, manual transmission,
35x12.5 MT, Come Up 19000, snork
_____________________________________
Where the road ends, life begins.
"Do I need to remove the motor and how to get by with a little blood?" (WITH)
“Maybe now I’ll ask stupidity)) how to“ stick ”a piston with new rings into it when you install it back into it?” (WITH)
"Do I need to remove the motor and how to get by with a little blood?" (WITH)
“Maybe now I’ll ask stupidity)) how to“ stick ”a piston with new rings into it when you install it back into it?” (WITH)
I agree, but not in everything. When I was shooting and disassembling the engine, I did it for the first time and my assistant was a book
"Nissan Terrano 1989-1994". only on rare occasions did I need help, but only physical.
And I fully support you that you must first clearly define your capabilities (physical, financial) And all this IMHO.
_________________
1994 TD27T LBYD21
According to the moim, it is easier to unhook the box and two bolts of the engine support and pull out the engine, for this you need a loop on the ceiling and a manual winch. and then it's easier to work with the engine than jumping into a hole from a hole
And with the engine removed, how to work? Hang it up or lay it on its side? Before that, the crankshaft pulley must be removed. On the removed engine, how to lock it to remove the pulley?
honestly, I have no idea how to fix the removed engine so that it would be convenient to work with it. This is a mount for installing the engine on the branded service stations. (all of the above is not a statement, but thoughts aloud)
To gain access to the crankcase, you need to remove the front differential and everything is not as scary as it seems.
Repair it yourself, but it is desirable that, as they say, a person is at hand, if something is not clear, he could advise on the spot and a good (detailed) manual (which is hard to find). The head of the block will still have to be given for grinding, and whoever grinds them to you and will sort it out (guides, valves, valve grinding, etc.), if you do not rummage yourself.
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TERRANO, 1992, Z24, gaz, sold
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After the race, the judges call the pilots one by one and say nasty things; and the navigator are sitting in a group and are worried.
North-Off-Road: off-road driving of the North
“There are a lot of questions, while I was writing, I forgot half of them” (C)
Repair of piston and KV does not differ from gasoline. The main thing is to observe the tightening torques of the connecting rod and KV caps and correctly orient the pistons relative to the engine front, and not to confuse the caps of the KV and connecting rods. You can read how to make this part of the repair in any book on auto, even in Zhigulevskaya - everything is accessible and understandable there, and having gained knowledge you can easily transfer it to your engine, given its specifics in the manual.
I am not familiar with your diesel, but I have capitalized many others, both gasoline and diesel. If you have questions - write to the soap, than I can - I will help. They don't ask for money for demand
Message zhekm »25 Mar 2011, 12:57
VovaTV, I'm talking about "useful links" there with prices you can decide whether you are offered expensive spare parts or not
Added after 2 minutes 4 seconds:
Message VovaTV »25 Mar 2011, 17:14
Thank you for the link, I will definitely download it (count 150 rubles. I saved it), maybe I'll swing the Atlas one, if I find a link and it doesn't weigh much (expensive GPRS), if not, I'll buy it later.
At the prices for the piston principle, I realized that it is not cheap, but not expensive either, to study an alternative and you can take
By the way, can you tell me how to unscrew the bolt of the KV pulley on the removed block in the least hymoric way?
Message _sergeevich_ »27 Mar 2011, 18:23
I made capital to the engine 2 years ago, the situation was the same. I bought liners and pistons in the PRC, later they dissuaded me from installing Chinese liners, in the end I gave the block to the bore for the repair piston, but on the 2nd cylinder I still had to change the liner to China and bore it under the rem. piston because Before the repair, the retaining ring of the pin fell out and the pin created a ditch in the cylinder. One of these days I am going to take off my head, tk. one of the Chinese valves has ripped open (be it wrong) and I'll see how things are going there. Mileage after capital 25000 km
Added after 5 minutes 34 seconds:
VovaTV: Thank you for the link, I will definitely download it (count 150 rubles. I saved it), maybe I'll swing the Atlas one, if I find a link and doesn't weigh much (expensive GPRS), if not, I'll buy it later.
At the prices for the piston principle, I realized that it is not cheap, but not expensive either, to study an alternative and you can take
By the way, can you tell me how to unscrew the bolt of the KV pulley on the removed block in the least hymoric way?
Message VovaTV »28 Mar 2011, 13:27
_sergeevich_, Hey.
Be sure to write down what is there with the Chinese sleeve?
I have already unscrewed the nut and knocked out the sleeves. Now all the iron is mine (oh, and the trouble is the same.)
Message _sergeevich_ »28 March 2011, 15:22
VovaTV: _sergeevich_, Hey.
Be sure to write down what is there with the Chinese sleeve?
I have already unscrewed the nut and knocked out the sleeves. Now all the iron is mine (oh, and the trouble is the same.)
Message zhekm »28 Mar 2011, 15:54
Message VovaTV »28 Mar 2011, 15:56
In the sense of a manufacturer?
I think I can’t pull the original. Taiwan some sort.
Well, or experienced ones will prompt a company with an optimal price-quality ratio.
He removed the sleeves with destruction, sharpened the screwdriver well and took a small hammer
I walked around the block for a long time trying on, and then “closing my eyes” began to act. In principle, everything went pretty easily.
Without removing the block, I think it is possible, but the metal garbage is filled incredibly, it is all the same to throw off the knee and wash, wash, wash.
PS: Here they write in the prices for rings, liners and STD pistons - is this a type of standard size?
And on the sleeves they write FF and SF, how to understand it?
Message zhekm »28 Mar 2011, 16:09
Message _sergeevich_ »28 Mar 2011, 16:49
It will not work out in detail, tk. it has been a long time since that moment. And in short: I bought a book on repairing Legion Avtodata, a torque wrench, gave the block and the shaft to the bore to a competent borer, be sure to grind the plane of the cylinder head, wash everything with gasoline and blow it before assembly. All stages of repair and tightening torques are described in the book. If I was tormented by doubts before a particular assembly operation, I consulted with knowledgeable people. If you have any questions, ask. To be honest, there is nothing complicated about it, if you have even small skills in tightening nuts, accuracy and a great desire
Added after 12 minutes 18 seconds:
VovaTV: You mean a manufacturer?
I think I can’t pull the original. Taiwan some sort.
Well, or experienced ones will prompt a company with an optimal price-quality ratio.
He removed the sleeves with destruction, sharpened the screwdriver well and took a small hammer
I walked around the block for a long time trying on, and then “closing my eyes” began to act. In principle, everything went pretty easily.
Without removing the block, I think it is possible, but the metal garbage is filled incredibly, it is all the same to throw off the knee and wash, wash, wash.
PS: Here they write in the prices for rings, liners and STD pistons - is this a type of standard size?
And on the sleeves they write FF and SF, how to understand it?
Now I looked at exist.ru, there are such price tags for the original:
piston 5400
sleeves of 3150 each
rings 3500
connecting rod bushing 150-200
in principle, normal, everything comes out about 20 tr. I think it's better than buying a contract engine for 50-60t.r. or assembled unit for 15-25t.r.
of course, provided that everything is OK with the rest of the units
After such a repair and with proper operation of the engine, it will be enough, if not until retirement, but for a long time
For myself, I put a sleeve from the kit in a red IZUMI box (most likely a fake) 300 yuan
A piston of a similar company and at the same price, TP rings are also for 300 yuan (according to which the Chinese assured that the company), although on average RIK rings cost 50-60 yuan
I was driving along the highway on my terrano and then it neatly died out. No knocking, nothing. It did not start. Later it turned out that the two middle cylinders were lifted up, which was explained by the lack of oil, but the sensor was silent, bastard! The car is 90 years old, to buy and change a dviglo - there are no funds. Attention is the question: will he live after the capital, what to look for during repairs and what nuances can there be?
Ride after renovation or tries to the market? Is it possible to find a used injection pump for such an old engine without electronics, so that it is fresher?
I bought it a couple of months ago, only took a new rubber and put a snorkel from RIF, I like the car madly, I don't want to lose!
No need to gloat, I'm not funny, but I looked at the probe the day before. Maybe 4500 rpm is too much for a diesel?
I immediately rejected comments on replacing it with a contract engine - there are no funds, a question on a loan is impossible. Only renovation.
No need to gloat, I'm not funny, but I looked at the probe the day before. Maybe 4500 rpm is too much for a diesel?
I immediately rejected comments on replacing it with a contract engine - there are no funds, a question on a loan is impossible. Only renovation.
This is some kind of scribe.
Firstly - 4500 for the old TD27 - death, even without convulsions.
Secondly, first calculate the overhaul and compare it with the price of the contract engine, and then draw conclusions.
I think the amounts will surprise you.
About the oil.
Tell me, why the hell did you pour synthetics into the ancient diesel engine? and synthetic bridges?
With you, it will simply disappear from the engine, and even at 4500 rpm.
Water will get into the bridges, sooner or later.
Therefore, synthetic nafig is not needed in a diesel engine, so there are only show-off.
Better a simple mineral and change more often.
At first, at high revs and under load, the TD27 engine began to pull poorly and smoke gray,
especially when you go up the hill ...
Then he began to smoke and on a flat road, then the revolutions began to float. Already, I barely made it to the service.
We examined the Nissan Atlas flatbed truck and decided to start with the high-pressure fuel pump mesh and clean the tank first.
So it turned out, the whole big problem is due to the small filter mesh.
We also installed a coarse fuel filter on the tank and changed the standard fuel filter,
which was also clogged with paraffin and dirt.
Voila, in two hours the faithful Nissan Atlas is ready to make money for the owner again! 🙂
Special thanks to the owner of the truck for their trust and gratitude!
Nissan Atlas '96, flatbed truck, carrying capacity - 1.5 tons; frame - P8F; Engine - TD27.
Need help fixing your truck or finding parts for it?
Car service "First" in Vladivostok works from 9:00 to 18:00 seven days a week.
You can find out the cost of work and spare parts right now.
Call 8-914-680-32-50. Our foreman will tell you the approximate price immediately by phone.
Do you want to call? Write a request for truck repair directly on our website here.
After repair, you will receive a 100% guarantee for all work carried out by our specialists. The warranty period for services is up to 1 year.
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Still in doubt.
Check out our customers' testimonials on how we repair trucks here.
Diagnostics and repair of trucks seven days a week.
Search for spare parts. Sending to the regions.
Freight car service "First". Vladivostok.
Prospect 100 years of Vladivostok 152a.
Tel .: 8-914-680-32-50
The TD27 engine was created for mid-size sea and river vessels, therefore it runs on diesel fuel, has a huge safety margin, rotation from the crankshaft to the camshaft is transmitted by a gear, and not by a belt. Nissan has decided to use the TD series on several minivan and SUV models.
The atmospheric version was used very rarely, mainly on the Nissan Atlas, more often modifications of the turbo TD27T, TD27ET and TD27ETi were used.
Originally in a 2.7 L TD series engine from Nissan to achieve 85 hp. With. and 216 Nm technical solutions were used:
- in-line four-cylinder engine;
- cast iron cylinder head head and gear transmission from the crankshaft to the camshaft and injection pump;
- valve drive by rocker arms and rods according to the OHV gas distribution scheme;
- vortex combustion chamber.
Since there is no chain / belt drive, the TD27 diesel does not bend the valve. The result is a "loud" but very reliable atmospheric internal combustion engine for heavy vehicles operating in difficult conditions. Inside the TD series, the developers have been able to increase power due to the fact that the cylinder displacement has become larger.
For more detailed information, all technical characteristics of the TD27 are collected in the table:
combined cycle 12 l / 100 km
clutch bolt - 19 - 30 Nm
bearing cover - 68 - 84 Nm (main) and 43 - 53 (connecting rod)
cylinder head - three stages 20 Nm, 69 - 85 Nm + 90 ° + 90 °
Periodically, the owner serves the engine with his own hands or at a service station, less often overhaul is carried out, some motorists carry out modernization to improve the parameters of the internal combustion engine. All the information necessary for this - the timing of replacing antifreeze, oil and other consumables, step-by-step steps for disassembly and assembly - is collected in the manual.
Designed for the tough operating conditions of boats, the TD27 engine includes the following designs:
- nodular cast iron cylinder head;
- stamped steel cylinder head cover;
- cast iron cylinder block with liners made of the same structural material, which allows multiple overhauls;
- gas distribution system according to the OHV scheme with a lower camshaft, rocker arms and pushers;
- transmission of rotation from the crankshaft to the injection pump and the camshaft by gears.
An important feature of the ShPG is the presence of at least 5 variants of the piston groove for the external vortex combustion chamber. The user manual includes a description of the maintenance and repair of the diesel engine. It is possible to force the diesel engine on its own, but only by installing a turbocharger.
In addition to the basic version of the naturally aspirated TD27 diesel engine, there are turbocharged modifications:
- TD27T - turbine without air cooler, power 98.6 liters. sec., torque 230 Nm;
- TD27ti - additional attachments are used - intercooler, power and torque are 123 hp. With. and 242 Nm, respectively;
- TD27eti - the intercooler is electronically controlled, the torque is increased to 279 Nm, the power is 130 hp. with., consumption of diesel fuel within 11 liters and 14 liters (highway / city, respectively).
In turn, the TD27T modification has several options with different ECU firmware:
- Т1 - for Nissan Caravan and Homy, 100 HP With.;
- T2 - for Datsun Truck and Nisan Terrano, the power is the same, the torque is reduced to 216 Nm;
- T3 - for Nissan Mistral, 243 Nm;
- Т4 - for Nissan Terrano, power 113 hp. sec., torque 243 Nm.
In addition to Nissan cars - Homy, Mistral, Terrano II, the characteristics of the TD27eti engine fit the Isuzu Eargo.
Initially, the ICE device with a gear drive and a mechanical injection pump has a number of advantages:
- ultra-reliable design with a service life of 300,000 km after each overhaul;
- resistance to overheating due to the cast iron head;
- low quality requirements for diesel fuel and lubricants.
The main disadvantage is poorly configured attachments. For example, when you change the oil filter yourself, it is difficult to reach it and make significant effort to unscrew it. Other disadvantages include:
- overweight and large dimensions;
- the need for periodic adjustment of the thermal clearances of the valves;
- loud noise during the operation of the gear drive.
Designed for river / sea vessels, the TD27 diesel engine was ideal for heavy cars from the manufacturer Nissan:
- Urvan - for the Asian and European markets;
- Caravan - 3rd generation minivan;
- Patrol - full-size SUV;
- Safari - for the Japanese market;
- Pasfinder - 4 generations of full-size crossover;
- Terrano - for the CIS countries until 2013;
- Mistral - compact SUV
- Atlas / Cabstar - commercial truck 1 - 1.5 t.
Since 2013, the Nissan Terrano brand has been assigned to the more compact Renault Duster crossover, which brings confusion among the owners.
The TD27 naturally aspirated diesel engine must be serviced within the specified times:
- it is recommended to adjust the thermal clearances of the valves after passing 25,000 mileage;
- crankcase ventilation cleaning is provided every 2 years;
- the manufacturer recommends replacing the engine oil and oil filter after 1000 km;
- the fuel filter needs to be replaced after 60,000 mileage;
- according to the manufacturer, the air filter should be updated after 35,000 km;
- the manufacturer recommended changing the antifreeze after 90,000 mileage for the first time, then every 60,000 km;
- engine spark plug resource is 20,000 mileage;
- the appearance of burnout of the walls of the exhaust manifold is possible after 120,000 km.
In severe operating conditions, the terms are reduced by 10% (mileage less than 30 thousand km) or 15% (mileage more than 30,000 km).
Thanks to the gear drive, the pistons cannot hit the valves, the TD27 motor never bends the valve. However, even the most reliable diesel engine from the factory has a number of faults that are characteristic exclusively of its design:
The use of oil of poor quality or not corresponding to API / SAE and temperature conditions (winter, summer, all-season) leads to an avalanche-like increase in problems:
- the piston and the cylinder mirror are worn out, seizures appear;
- the amount of gases escaping into the crankcase increases, excess pressure arises;
- the diesel engine becomes noisy and shaky, the consumption of lubricant and fuel increases.
After that, the owner begins to fill in the cheapest lubricant, exacerbating the situation.
The naturally aspirated TD27 diesel engine is not initially suitable for mechanical tuning. On the other hand, the manufacturer himself performs the tuning by installing a turbocharger in the TD27T version separately or in combination with an intercooler. For the owner of the Nissan Atlas, in which the atmospheric basic version of the TD27 diesel is most often installed, an inflatable tuning is available:
- installation of the turbine 14411-7T600 or 14411-7F411 from the Korean manufacturer Nomparts;
- installation of an air-to-air or water-to-air intercooler.
Exactly the same turbine, but already by the American manufacturer Garrett, costs twice as much. On auto-parsing, air-type coolers cost from 1000 rubles, water-air type from 2000 rubles. When installing the intercooler, it is important to understand that tuning will not bring results without an external air intake. The increased volume of air will require more diesel fuel, so you will have to change the fuel supply to the mixture.
Thus, the TD27 diesel engine, created for boats, has a resource of 400 - 500 thousand kilometers on Nissan SUVs and minibuses. Due to the gear drive, it is considered quite noisy, but very reliable.
The 2nd and 3rd connecting rod bent. 3rd and 4th are normal. In general, I changed two bent connecting rods complete with pistons. Changed the earbuds. Gaskets, in short, everything was assembled as expected. I left the old rings, because literally before I fell into the water, the engine was overhauled, and the rings seemed to be in good condition. Filled in oil ZIK semi-synthetics 10w40.
In short, we made the first start of the car for 3-4 minutes sausage, the revolutions are small and white smoke (it hurts your eyes). Then the revolutions returned to normal, there was no smoke. The car drives briskly, everything is CLASS,
Then it stood for 3 hours and again, when starting up, white smoke. Then again all the rules. In short, white smoke goes to the cold one. Only this is not steam, but clearly smoke.
1. Drain the coolant.
It's a lot of fun, described here.
2. Remove the radiator.
For this:
- disconnect the upper pipe (the lower one has already been removed when draining the coolant);
- remove the “apron” (in Fig. No. 21476) around the fan. First, we climb up from below and disconnect the lower semicircle of the apron (in Fig. No. 21477). It just snaps off. Then we unscrew the two bolts from above and take the apron up;
- unscrew the two upper bolts securing the radiator to the top of the “TV”. The radiator does not hold on to anything else: from below it is simply inserted into the corresponding holes. We take it out up;
3. Remove the fan from the viscous coupling.
4. Remove all belts.
A great opportunity to conduct an inspection 😉
5. Unscrew the assembly of the viscous coupling with a pump from the cylinder block.
Next is the assembly process. Everything is in reverse order.
I will note that according to the manual the pump does not need to be smeared with any sealant... Because there is a paper pad included. Here at KA24 there is no gasket, it is made with a sealant.
Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]
Message Buyn 26 Feb 2012, 22:53
Message Oleg Z »09 Mar 2012, 13:41
Message RANGER »09 Mar 2012, 13:50
Message Oleg Z »09 Mar 2012, 16:35
Message Valday »10 Mar 2012, 00:15
Message RANGER »10 Mar 2012, 15:01
Message Oleg Z »10 Mar 2012, 18:02
Message igor-omsk »10 Mar 2012, 19:06
Message nikolay-urup »10 Mar 2012, 20:38
Message Valday »11 Mar 2012, 07:40
Oleg Z, you'd better buy the basic parts and put them in the drawer. s / h will not become cheaper, but even now there is no reason to arrange a bulkhead. Of course, provided that you drive the car all the way
igor-omsk, infa is very cloudy. someone saw TD42 in real life, but not the 27th. I also heard about the 4M40, like they were also put on boats, but it also has the upper part of the cylinders either covered with ceramics, or something especially hardened, which provides a large resource, while the TD27 has ordinary cylinders.
A million kilometers without a capital, in theory, is probably achievable under ideal conditions, but in real life such were not met.
Manual for the repair, maintenance and operation of Nissan. Engines TD27Ti, TD27ETi.
With the help of this guide, you will quickly find any malfunctions in your vehicle, their causes and remedies.
Perform DIY repairs on any part of your car: Engine, Gearbox, Power System, Exhaust System, Transmission, Suspension, Steering, Brake System, etc.
Recommendations for Tech. maintenance and diagnostics of electronic control systems.
At the beginning of the week, we received the missing parts of the kit and this weekend began the process of installing the TD27T. A little about the extant parts.
Redesigned flywheel. Herzog clutch disc and Sachs basket:
True, the guys did not work a little. The groove in the crankshaft was made, but the flywheel was not bored out under the standard crankshaft bearing. Native flywheel inner diameter 38 mm.And our bearing has an outer diameter of 40mm. But we managed to find an experienced turner nearby (the "familiar turner" is a very important element in the construction of a UAZ with a large machine tool, he brought the diameter to the required size and pressed in a regular bearing. In general, there is a silver lining. Now we know a place near our village where you can to pierce, boil, etc. And on weekends they work.
And also two sets of supports came. One standard from TD27T and one specially made set of horizontal supports. We will decide which option to install locally:
An adapter plate is made for the TD27T to dock with the Daimos box. This is how it looks on the engine:
The supports have not yet been installed, but the flywheel with the clutch basket has been installed. For centering and checking the authenticity, the same caprolon mandrel was used as when centering the clutch disc on the ZMZ-514:
With a “light movement of the hand,” according to the already worked out scheme, the 514 was again removed from the engine compartment and set to a hitch until better times. The engine is complete and in good working order. Will be like a spare:
The engine compartment was freed for installation. Removed all unnecessary. The photo clearly shows the new VUT from ADS and the steering shaft shifted to the right:
The steering shaft was shifted in advance in order to fit the turbine of the 27th. As an added bonus, the steering wheel is now smoother than before. True, the pedal assembly had to be slightly altered. Here you can see more closely how the steering shaft support moved:
Ahead is the process of adjusting the supports and, in fact, installing the unit in the engine compartment.
It will also be necessary to resolve the issue with the design of the intake pipe and the exhaust tract as a whole.
First, a little about the adapter plate. We ourselves certainly could not have done it ourselves. Here are just our dowel pins:
Adapter plate for Daimos
The slab was removed specifically to modify the bell of the box. We'll talk about these improvements a little later.
The clutch basket and disc were nevertheless decided to be left by the family from the 514th. Our clutch disc turned out to be almost new (Luk with a damper) and, according to reviews, is better than the one that came with the 27th. A new basket with a disc will go to stock. As a standard, we took a self-made mandrel and centered the disc on the engine:
Save to Album Clutch from 514 to TD27-T
With the help of a crane, they removed the 27th from Zobrik and prepared for installation in the engine compartment:
The engine was tried on four times. Every time something prevented him from getting into place normally. As a result, after all the modifications, the engine compartment looked like this:
Modification of the engine compartment
In the box, with a drill with an end mill, 4 grooves for the head of the bolts that attach the adapter plate to the TD27T block and the fifth milling for the normal exit of the starter bendix gear were modified. After the milling cut, some places had to be finished with a file. On the right side in the engine shield, a grinder cut a hole for the turbine protrusion. On the left side, the engine shield had to be tapped a little under the adapter plate in the starter area and the intake manifold protrusion at the SROG connection (the SROG itself, of course, is absent):
After all these “dances with a tambourine,” the TD27 normally climbed into the engine compartment:
True, so far the diesel is not only in the engine compartment, but also partially in the cabin 🙂:
The turbine is certainly good, but it requires the work of a grinder and a serious alteration of the gas pedal. So far, we have simply dismantled the pedal and will come up with a new design.
By the way, what pleased me was that there would be no need to dismantle the viscous coupling, which means that if the need arises, it will be possible to return the standard impeller to its place. We moved the radiator a little forward and the gap between the viscous coupling and the electric Carlsons looks quite satisfactory, plus there is still a margin:
The gap between the viscous coupling and the electric Carlsons.
The engine is not yet secured to the frame (but in the correct position), supports will be made later.
This weekend was a very important milestone - the supports for the TD27T in Zöbrik, i.e. the actual installation of the engine.
The main goal is not to alter anything on the frame (not to cut or cook), so that the frame remains suitable for installing a standard engine and you can easily swap TD27T and ZMZ-514 places.
Since, wherever the situation permits, we try to act not by welding, but by means of engineering structures, many options have been changed and tried. Therefore, we will only talk about the final result.
Right forward support.
It was not possible to use the completely native bracket of the 514th and the silent block - the fastening of the injection pump of the 27th and the body of the injection pump itself interferes. As a result, the middle option was chosen - a silent block from the 514th and a homemade bracket for the engine. For this, a corner was removed from grandfather's stocks and, with the help of a grinder and a sweeping machine, a product was cached from it to build up a standard support platform:
Platform for the right support.
Then, from the left support of the GAZelle engine (40524.1001014), by drilling, cutting and welding, a counterpart was made on the 27th:
Right counterpart of the support
The silent block is shifted to the engine shield on the body (one of the standard holes was used) and, as a result, the structure in place looks like this:
All work with pieces of iron, and not only, we do in our small workshop on the terrace. This is how she is with us. From left to right: A sharpening machine for dressing a tool, a Grundig is applied above it, to the right is a vertical mill (a gift for February 23rd from mom and wife), a lathe and a drill:
Initially, the machines were purchased for the construction of a custom from the remains of a donor for the restoration of the 1949 K-125 motorcycle (this is another story), but they are very useful to this day when you need to make some non-standard part or modify a standard one.
On the drill lies the blank of the adapter plate for the left support. They made it from three layers of 8-mm soveian duralumin (grandfather's reserves). The layers of duralumin were pulled together tightly with bolts (it turned out to be a "pie") and passed along the ends with a milling cutter.
Left forward support
Everything was better with the left support. It was possible to use not only the silent block, but also the bracket from the left along the support of the 514th. Here's a set for the left support:
The duralumin "pie" is screwed into place of the standard support on the 27th, and a bracket with a silent block from the 514th is already screwed to it, and this is how the whole economy looks in place:
True, to install it, the oil filter had to be removed (otherwise it is possible, but very inconvenient).
Another innovation has been added - a new FTOT. To be honest, I'm tired of pumping the solarium using a foot pump (such a scheme for 514 is to pump it into the pressure system through the fuel tank breather and unscrew the bolt on the filter to release the air) and decided to put a FTOT with a frog (from Hyundai Porter):
By the way, there is a frog on FTOT ZMZ-514 Euro-2 (and an electric pump, in addition), but apparently they decided to save money on Euro-3, although a frog or another manual pump built into the fuel system is a necessary thing, in our opinion.
Well, of course, they could not resist, they poured oil, connected a starter and other necessary snot (including a bottle for a return flow with a high-pressure fuel pump, it is small in diameter at the 27th) and tried to start (for which everything was actually started):
We made a mistake with the comments on the video (we were worried, however). It is not the turbine that buzzes, but the vacuum pump on the generator, which is not connected to the vacuum consumers. We figured it out later, after carefully watching the video.
We continue the process of connecting the TD27T to the on-board network and controls. As usual, we try to use design solutions using ready-made available parts and a minimum of a complex one-time collective farm (i.e. welding).
Oil, pressure sensors.
The TD27T has only one oil pressure sensor - emergency. It is screwed directly into the block under the intake manifold (to be precise, into the liquid-oil heat exchanger on the block wall behind the starter). Thread 10x1. And in the UAZ there is both a lamp and an oil pressure device (display meter) - that is, you need two sensors.There is a tee for them, but it was not very convenient to put the sensors at the bottom, since there is very little space between the starter and the nozzle pipes. Therefore, we decided to use a brake hose from the UAZ. We made an adapter on a lathe and screwed the hose into the block:
On top of the intake manifold, an aluminum corner was screwed into the standard holes, the second end of the hose to it. A corner from the Volga fuel rail was screwed into the hose and already a tee and sensors into it:
The sensors are working. The emergency lamp goes out and the device shows 4 atm. cold at idle.
Gas pedal
When installing the TD27T, I had to cut out a part of the engine shield for the turbine outlet (see the photo from the link at the beginning), but the gas pedal was attached to this part, so I had to come up with a new bracket for it. At first there was an idea to move the mount to the left and make a new pedal, but then the idea arose of how to use a standard pedal. They cut off the pedal bracket support and screwed it to a welded aluminum box, which was installed in place of the cutout of the engine shield:
The gas pedal was in place and the throttle cable was connected to it in the standard hole. Perhaps the pedal bar will need to be bent, but these are trifles, the main thing is that the pedal works:
Flywheel and starter protectors
During installation, due to the difference in the docking dimensions of the TD27T and the Daimos box, it turned out that it was impossible to use the standard flywheel protection. The protection was welded from the remnants of the corrugated aluminum sheathing. Fastened to the lower bolts securing the box to the adapter plate:
Flywheel protection plate.
A plate for the starter was made of the same material, since it was not completely covered by the bell of the box. Attached to the lower elongated starter mounting bolt:
We made new wiring for the generator and candles (fortunately, the candle relay was already from the 514th). The candles are working, the charging device shows 14 volts at idle.
Our diesel with Nissan Caravan is equipped with a vacuum suction pump. Checked by connecting directly to a vacuum pump - it works. We will use an electrovalve from the SROG 514 to electrically control the suction from the passenger compartment.
Since the TD27T connected "on snot" normally and rather rumbled, then this weekend they started tidying up the engine compartment. In general, fashionable feng shui. 🙂
First, in Planet Zhelezyak, they made us a high-pressure hose for the power steering pump. On the steering wheel of the UAZ, the diameter is 14 mm, and on the pump, 16 mm. Return hose -16 mm both on the tank and on the pump. The pump was left with its own outlet hose, since it has a very good bend with an outlet towards the radiator. Therefore, they took a 16 by 16 mm fitting and already connected a hose from the power steering reservoir to it. The hoses were laid along the frame beam (in front of the radiator) Both hoses turned out to be more than 1.5 meters long, so a lot of ATF was required (more than a liter).
We also fitted the radiator and stove pipes (TD27T allows you to keep the entire antifreeze system up and in sight).
They also zagolhozi in the 27th the coolant temperature sensor from the UAZ, connected the stove together with the booster pump, inserted a self-made oil separator, fitted the new FTOT to the standard bracket, removed the extra wires from the old brains, connected the accelerator pneumatic pump, modified the gas cable and fixed the hoses and wires more cultured ... This is how the engine compartment looks like now:
Now a little more detail in parts:
The self-made oil separator is made according to the well-known scheme - with the help of metal sponges for dishes, a tank for a spray gun is used as a body.
Here you can see his "explosive scheme" in nature:
Disassembled oil separator
The sieve is placed on the bottom, on top of the sponge. Oil from the crankcase settles on the jaws and flows down into the conical part of the reservoir. At the bottom, you can unscrew the plug (homemade from caprolon) and drain the oil - the tank is translucent, and the oil in the diesel is black, so it's easy to control. In addition, the case is plastic, so moisture from the crankcase gases will not condense on it in frost and then freeze.To connect it to the air duct, the intake manifold pipe from the figure eight was used (one end fits in diameter to the turbine inlet, and the other to the air filter pipes) - in this pipe there is an inlet for the fitting onto which the outgoing hose of the oil separator clings.
For the oil separator, a special bracket was welded from the remnants of the aluminum cladding. Below is an oil separator in the photo, and a pneumatic valve from the SROG ZMZ-514 is suspended on the top of the intake manifold. We used it as a suction valve:
The temperature sensor was screwed into the stove outlet. With some difficulty they unscrewed the fitting from the thermostat, inserted it into the lathe, drilled it, cut the thread and put the sensor on the sealant. Everything seems to work and does not drip. The readings are adequate - the thermostat keeps 78 degrees and the fans do not turn on (514 was hotter). The hole of the standard sensor was plugged (it was not on the thermostat). This is how this node looks closer:
Since now the suction is controlled by electricity, and not by a cable, the issue with the control panel above the “beard” has finally been resolved. On the left is the suction toggle switch, and on the right is the stove tap control knob. In general, a complete design.
Since we connected everything we needed, we naturally decided to take a ride. The sensations are excellent - Zebrik rides easily and naturally from the very bottom, and when you press the sneaker he breaks from the spot (they did not accelerate much, it is necessary to go to the track), much better than the “brooding” 514 diesel.
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Video (click to play). |
We are all techies, our hands are in place, we are trained in drawing, so we took, and removed the template from our adapter plate. By pattern