DIY umz 414 engine repair

Legendary Ulyanovsk plant

The Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant has produced many vehicles that have forever entered the history of the domestic automotive industry. "Loafs", patriots, "bobby" - most of the cars are intended for gas services, ambulance services, police, riot police, etc. UAZ Patriot is now popular as an all-wheel drive SUV capable of overcoming any obstacles. The plant released from under its wing a lot of minibuses, small trucks and cars with four-wheel drive.

The motors of these cars are powerful, strong and reliable. The main reason for their breakdown is usually the large age of the UAZ. In the most common UAZ 3303 models, the 417 engine is installed. In order to repair the UAZ 417 engine with your own hands or its bulkhead, you should not wait until all parts are completely worn out. The first signs of an imminent breakdown may be the following:

• oil consumption has increased significantly;
• the motor is smoking;
• fuel consumption has increased significantly;
• engine power has dropped;
• the motor makes various suspicious sounds: knocks, squeaks and noises.

Each UAZ car has its own engine. For the UAZ 469 engine, a modification of the UMZ-451MI was first created, later upgraded to the UMZ 417 engine.

UAZ 3303 is a cross-country vehicle. When overcoming various obstacles, the engine is overloaded the most. It is easy to buy spare parts for this car, both new and used ones.

Pistons and liners are destroyed due to frequent overheating of the engine when driving off-road. Many owners of UAZ 3303 change the entire engine, rather than subject it to repair. If the car owner undertakes to repair the engine with his own hands, he must understand that this requires some experience.

Reanimating the engine, returning it to its original agility and obedience will help change unusable parts or restore them. All parts must be of the correct size. Stores offer a wide variety of pistons, piston rings, intake and exhaust valve seats, and crankshaft connecting rod bearing inserts. The size of the detail can be checked with sales consultants.

Bulkhead uazovsky motor

Engine wear is significantly affected by the deterioration of lubrication of rubbing surfaces, which depends on an increase or decrease in clearances. To reassemble the motor with your own hands, you first need to dismantle it. This is done as follows:

• drain antifreeze and oil from the pan;
• separate the air intake filter and disconnect the muffler pipe from the engine;
• disconnect the pipes of the cooling system, oil cooler and heaters from the engine;
• remove the radiator of the cooling system;
• separate the throttle and air thrust rods from the carburetor;
• remove all wiring from the motor;
• unscrew the bolts of the lower and front cushions of the supports.

Now he removes the engine from the UAZ 3303. For this, a bracket specially designed for this is installed on the pins of the block head. The motor must be jacked up and the gearbox must be separated from it. The motor can be removed by lifting it up.

Other actions will lead to the fact that, along with the engine, you will have to get the transfer case and gearbox.

Before proceeding with the disassembly with your own hands, the motor should be carefully cleaned of fuel oil and slag. Dismantling requires special tool kits such as 2216-B and 2216-M.

All serviceable parts must be cleaned and replaced or marked with markers or stickers to avoid confusion in the future.In the event of any breakdown or malfunction, the connecting rods and caps should not be disconnected from them. When changing the crankcase, you need to measure the angle of connection of the crankshaft axis with the rear end of the crankcase. Next, remove the clutch and determine the indicator post on the edge of the crankshaft. The swing radius of the edge of the crankcase and the slot should be approximately 0.1 mm.

After cleaning, all parts of the motor must be degreased. Carbon deposits can be gently cleaned off with a knife or other hard object. There is another, easier and safer way. To clean aluminum parts, you need to prepare the following solution:

• 10 g of laundry or other alkaline soap;
• 18 g soda ash;
• 8 g of liquid glass;
• 1 liter of water heated to 90 ° C.

For cleaning steel parts, this solution is suitable:

• 25 g of caustic soda;
• 30 g of soda ash;
• 5 g of laundry or other alkaline soap;
• 1.5 g of liquid glass;
• 1 liter of pure water at a temperature of 90 ° C.

When the parts are clean, they must be rinsed in clean water and dried. When assembling the UAZ 3303 engine, certain rules should be followed:

• all parts subject to friction during operation must be lubricated with engine oil;
• all new threaded parts must be installed on the red lead;
• use nitro varnish with integral parts;
• a torque wrench should be used when tightening nuts and bolts.

The cylinder block is the simplest component of the engine. Problems in its work arise due to wear and tear of the components. Therefore, you just need to replace the old worn out parts with new or repaired ones.

The sleeves need to be replaced more often than the rest of the parts. An erased part can be considered when the gap between the skirt and the sleeve increases to 1/3 mm. The height of the liner protrusion in the cylinder block should be no more than 0.05 mm and no less than 0.005 mm. If the protrusion is too small, then the antifreeze will definitely end up in the combustion chamber, which will be the result of a breakdown. The liner size is measured excluding the O-ring. Liners in the cylinder block are fixed with washers and bushings. It is better to replace too bored sleeves with new ones.

The cause of a cylinder block breakdown may be deformation of the abutment surface to the block, complete abrasion of the valve guides and seats. The distortion of the plane of the head should not exceed 0.5 mm. Otherwise, the head must be polished.

The condition of the piston rings should be monitored. It is better to change them every 80 thousand km of the rally. Each piston has 2 compression rings and 1 oil scraper. Due to the grooves on the inner surface of the ring, excess oil is removed from the system when the piston is lifted up.

When only the rings need to be replaced, but not the piston itself, carbon deposits must be cleaned from the annular scars in its piston head. It is important to do this with care to avoid damaging the side walls. A 3 mm drill can be used to remove carbon deposits from the oil drain holes. The speed limit should not exceed 50 km / h during the first 1000 km.

When the groove of the upper piston ring or the piston skirt is worn out, replace the piston itself. New parts to be installed in the cylinders must be of nominal size. The best option is when a new set of pistons is larger, this will close the gap with an incompletely worn cylinder. The pistons are sorted by the outer diameter of the skirt. The size can be found on the bottom of the piston.

Connecting rod repair consists of replacing and cleaning the top head bushing. The repair sleeves are made from a 1 mm thick bronze strip. When pressing another bushing into the connecting rod, it is necessary to ensure duplication of the bore holes in the bushing and the upper connecting rod head. The holes are needed for the oil to flow to the piston pin. The inner surface of the pressed-in sleeve can be tamped with a flat plug. The original diameter should be 24 mm.

On the other hand, the sleeve needs to be designed for a repair gauge.When in the connecting rods the slots for the inserts in the lower head have more than 0.05 mm ovality, it will be easier to replace them.

The piston pins can be changed without pre-machining the piston bores. It is better to use parts with a larger diameter. The diameter of the fingers should not be more than 0.1 mm, otherwise the holes will have to be processed in advance.

Before pressing the gudgeon pin in, remove the pin circlips from the piston with pliers. In this situation, the piston must heat up to 70 ° C in a container with water. The restoration of the piston pins is carried out by grinding them to a slightly smaller size or chrome plating, and then polishing to the indicated parameters. If the piston pins are cracked or chipped, they cannot be repaired.

The gap between the piston pins and the connecting rod head is 0.007 mm. Lubricate the piston pin with a low viscosity oil. In practice, the piston is very easy to select. At room temperature, the finger should not fit into the piston from the force of the hand. But if the piston is heated to 70 ° C, then under slight pressure it easily enters there. If you press the pin at room temperature, there is a risk of damage to the bore and the piston itself.

All cleaned or replaced parts are reinstalled into place. When the engine is fully assembled, it must be balanced. Neither side with new pistons should outweigh the other by more than 8 g. The circlips must be tightly fitted in the grooves. To avoid complications, pistons can be purchased complete with finger and rings.

After a major overhaul, it is important not to overload the UAZ 3303 engine with intensive work for the first 1000 km. All new installed parts must be worn in and rubbed in.

Changing the oil in the engine and in the box is one of the important procedures to ensure the stable operation of the car. It is necessary to change the lubricant in a timely manner, use high-quality fuel and undergo a technical inspection on time.

The engine is a four-stroke carburetor with in-line cylinders and overhead valves. Designed for installation on cars and trucks of the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant.
Produced in export performance for countries with temperate and tropical climates.

The UMZ-414 engine was installed on the UAZ-469 and UAZ-452. It was a further development of the UMZ-451 motor. Like the 451st, the UMZ-414 engine block differs from its predecessors in its increased rigidity and a separate bracket for stuffing the rear end of the crankshaft oil seal, as well as a modified design of the front crankshaft oil seal - it has become external.

The engine uses: a new design intake pipe, a cylinder head with improved inlet and outlet channels, an increased performance oil pump, a closed crankcase ventilation system, parts and assemblies of increased reliability and wear resistance. The products were awarded the State Quality Mark.
UMZ-414 engines were produced until 1986.

In appearance, UMZ-414 practically does not differ from UMZ-417

1 - flywheel; 2 - mounting lug; 3 - heater tap; 4 - cylinder head cover; 5 - inlet pipeline; 6 - nuts of the cylinder head mounting studs; 7 - valve rocker; 8 - the axis of the rocker arms; 9 - crankcase ventilation pipe; 10 - cylinder head; 11 - valve springs; 12 - slinger cap; 13 - valve sleeve; 14 - oil filler cap; 15 - valve; 16 - cylinder head gasket; 17 - coolant pump; 18 - barbell; 19 - pusher; 20 - fan pulley; 21 - a camshaft; 22 - driven gear wheel of the camshaft drive; 23 - torsional vibration damper; 24 - pulley hub; 25 - pulley; 26 - pulley bolt; 27 - cuff; 28 - the driving gear of the camshaft drive; 29 - crankshaft; 30 - oil pan; 31 - cylinder liner; 32 - piston; 33 - oil drain plug; 34 - connecting rod; 35 - oil intake; 36 - oil pump; 37 - cylinder block; 38 - exhaust manifold; 39 - clutch housing.

We remove the engine from the car (see Removing the engine) and clean it from the outside from dirt and oil.
Remove the oil filter and the right power unit support bracket.
We fix the engine on the stand by the studs of the right support bracket.
We take out the oil dipstick.

Remove the fan impeller, accessory drive belts, generator and starter.

Using the "24" wrench, weaken the tightening of the union and turn it with the tap up.

Turn off the oil cooler tap using the "19" key.

Finally, we unscrew the fitting with the valve.

… And remove the oil pressure gauge sensor.

The flush connection of the sensor is sealed with two washers.

We turn off the emergency oil pressure sensor (see Replacing the lubrication system sensors).
Remove the fine fuel filter (see Replacing the fine fuel filter).
Remove the fuel pump (see Removing and disassembling the fuel pump).
We remove the distributor sensor together with the drive and high-voltage wires (see Removing the distributor sensor).
In order not to lose bolts, nuts and washers, after removing the next part ...

... we bait them into place (but only where it will not interfere with further disassembly).

We remove the starter (see. Removing the starter).
Remove the intake manifold and exhaust manifold (see Removing the intake manifold and exhaust manifold).

... and "14" we unscrew the two mounting bolts of the amplifier and remove it.

We turn the engine over with the crankcase up. Remove the clutch release fork (see Removing the pressure and driven clutch discs). Remove the flywheel (see Replacing the rear crankshaft seal).

Using the "14" wrench, unscrew the two bolts of the upper fastening of the clutch housing ...

... and with the same wrench, two middle bolts.

With an open-end wrench "17", unscrew the two bolts of the lower crankcase mounting.

Remove the upper part of the crankcase.

Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the two lower bolts and three bolts of the upper cuff mounting plates and remove the plates.

We turn the engine to its original position and remove the cylinder head (see Removing the cylinder head).
We turn the engine with the front part up. Remove the crankshaft pulley with the bushing (see Replacing the front crankshaft seal).
Remove the coolant pump (see Replacing the coolant pump).

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the nut ...

... and remove the cover of the pusher box and its gasket.

Remove the second cover (with oil separator) in the same way.

On an engine with a working volume of 2.5 liters ...

... we take out the eight valve pushers and number them (or put them in order).

To prevent cylinder liners from falling out, ...

... we fix them with a device.

We turn the engine over with the pallet up.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the 18 pallet fixing nuts.

If some nuts are turned out together with the studs, before screwing them in, degrease and lubricate the threads of the studs and the hole in the block with an anaerobic sealant.
Shaped washers are installed under the corner nuts for securing the pallet.

We remove the front and rear parts of the gasket from the pallet, ...

... and from the block - the side parts of the pallet gasket.

Using the "13" key, unscrew the three remaining nuts securing the front cover of the cylinder block ...

... and with keys "12" and "14" a bolt with a nut for fastening the cover.

Remove the cover gasket by prying it off with a sharp tool.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the discharge pipe of the oil pump.

Using a 12 key, unscrew the two bolts securing the pump to the crankshaft main bearing cover.

We remove the oil pump.

A gasket is installed between the pipe and the block.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the pipe to the pump.

Remove the pipe and gasket.

Using the "12" wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the oil intake mesh ...

Use a screwdriver to bend the antennae of the locking plates ...

... and with the "10" head unscrew the four bolts connecting the cover to the pump casing.

We take out the bolts.

... and, having marked the relative position of the parts, remove the oil intake, taking care not to damage the gasket.

We take out the pressure reducing valve with a spring from the oil intake.

Remove the cover from the pump housing.

Shims are installed between the body and the cover.

We assemble the pump by lubricating its parts with engine oil and washing the oil intake mesh from deposits with a solvent.

Remove the crankshaft front end oil deflector.

We turn the engine crankshaft so that the holes in the camshaft gear are opposite the heads of the camshaft thrust flange bolts.

To replace the camshaft gear.

... with a key "17" unscrew the bolt securing the camshaft gear ...

... and remove it together with the washers.

With a long head "12" through the hole in the gear, we unscrew the two bolts securing the thrust flange.

We remove the camshaft together with the gear.

With a special puller, we remove the gear from the camshaft and press a new one through the mandrel (for example, with a head of a suitable diameter).

ATTENTION
When removing and installing the gear, do not strike or apply force to the plastic part, as it may be damaged.

In order not to confuse the pushers, we put them in order or put notes with a serial number in them.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew two nuts ...

The cover is seated on a sealant, so you should first swing it with pliers.

Using the "15" head, turn off the connecting rod cap nuts.

Lightly tapping on the sides of the cover, pull it off the bolts.

ATTENTION
Do not remove the cover by inserting a screwdriver or chisel into the gap between the cover and the connecting rod, as the seating planes will be damaged.

If necessary, knock out the connecting rod bolts through a thin soft metal bit.

Remove the connecting rod cover together with the liner.

We take out the piston with the connecting rod from the cylinder block.

Likewise, we take out the pistons of the remaining cylinders. The sequence of disassembly of the connecting rod-piston group - reverse assembly (see. Assembling the connecting rod-piston group).

Using the "22" head, unscrew the nuts of the main bearing caps.

ATTENTION
Be sure to mark the number of each cover and its position with a punch. When reassembling, all covers should only be installed in their original places.

Tapping lightly on the root covers, ...

… We remove them one by one together with the inserts.

With a puller, we press the gear together with the thrust washer.

When assembling, we install the washer in such a way that the chamfer of the hole is facing in the opposite direction from the gear.

Knock out the pinion key from the groove on the crankshaft.

Remove the thrust washers (liners) limiting the axial movement of the crankshaft.

After grinding the necks of the crankshaft with a hexagon "14" or a bolt with a head "14" and locked nuts, unscrew the plugs.

We thoroughly clean the channels for the passage of oil in the crankshaft from deposits and residues of abrasive (in case the crankshaft has undergone regrinding). We wash the channels of the crankshaft with kerosene, gasoline or diesel fuel and blow it off with compressed air.

We install in place the plugs of the oil channels.

With a beard, we cut out the edges of the plugs.

We carry out further assembly of the crankshaft in the reverse order of disassembly.

UAZ cars are very popular in Russia, and in Soviet times the UAZ was out of competition - foreign SUVs were extremely rare in the Soviet Union at that time. But since the machines are often operated in difficult conditions, it is necessary to regularly repair components and assemblies, and repairing the UAZ engine is a relevant topic that interests many.

• motors are not complex;
• spare parts are available and are in stock at many auto dealerships;
• engine parts are inexpensive.

The engines of the Ulyanovsk plant have their own characteristic "diseases", and not all car owners leave their "native" engine - they put internal combustion engines from other car models. In this article, we will consider the features of UAZ engine repair, typical engine malfunctions, as well as possible options for replacing UAZoav power units.

UMP begins its history in 1944, when a joint-stock company was created by the order of the People's Commissar.At first, the plant produced small-displacement engines for charging batteries and mobile power plants, and the first automobile internal combustion engine rolled off the assembly line in 1969.

The motor was named UMZ 451, and had a lot in common with the power unit of the Volga GAZ 21. Since 1971, the ICE 451 was modernized, and it received the 451M index, this engine was awarded the “Quality Mark”. In the late 70s and early 80s of the last century, the UMZ-414 ICE was installed on the UAZ 469 ("goat") and UAZ 452 ("loaf") cars, and since 1989, the UMP 417 with a capacity of 90 liters has been produced. With.

Until the mid-90s, all Ulyanovsk engines had a volume of 2.445 liters and a cylinder diameter of 92 mm. In 1996, the production of the UMZ-421 ICE began, this power unit was distinguished by a cylinder diameter increased to 100 mm and a large volume (2.89 liters). Since 1997, the Ulyanovsk plant has been supplying power units for GAZ vehicles, and these are models:

• 4215;
• 4213;
• 4216 in various modifications;
• Evotech 2.7.

The engine of the Ulyanovsk plant, model 417, is produced in various modifications, has an aluminum block and a cylinder head, 4 cylinders in one row, 2 valves per cylinder. "417th" engines have a carburetor fuel system:

• a single-chamber carburetor is installed on modification 417;
• UMZ-4178 is equipped with a two-chamber carburetor.

The technical characteristics of the UMZ-417 are as follows:

• volume - 2445 cm³;
• power - 90 liters. With.;
• piston diameter - 92 mm;
• compression ratio (compression in cylinders) - 7.1;
• piston stroke - 92 mm;
• type of fuel used - gasoline A-76.

The UMZ-417 internal combustion engine, in addition to 4178, also has other modifications:

• 4175 - an engine designed to use AI-92 gasoline (98 hp, compression ratio - 8.2);
• 10-10 - ICE with a block head from model 421 and with a rubber rear oil seal.

The UMZ-421 engine has been produced since 1996, it is installed on Ulyanovsk models:

Instead of stuffing box packing, this motor uses a rubber oil seal as the rear crankshaft seal. This motor has the following characteristics:

• volume - 2890 cm³;
• power - 98 liters. With.;
• piston diameter - 100 mm;
• compression ratio (compression in cylinders) - 8.2;
• piston stroke - 92 mm;
• the type of fuel used is AI-92 gasoline.

There is also a version of the internal combustion engine designed for A-76 gasoline fuel, the power of such a power unit is 91 liters. With. (respectively, the compression ratio is 7.0). UMZ-421 motors are equipped with K-151E carburetors.

The UAZ Patriot, which is widely popular in Russia, has been produced since 2005, but unlike all other Ulyanovsk-made cars, this model has no "native" engines - the SUV is equipped with ZMZ and Iveco engines. Only one type of gasoline engines is installed on the Patriot as standard - 3MZ 409.10 with a volume of 2.7 liters and a capacity of 128 liters. With. This engine has taken root so well on the UAZ that it is sometimes called the UAZ 409.

The engines of the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant are distinguished by their simplicity of design and high maintainability, and since UMP engines are simple, many drivers repair UAZ engines with their own hands. Overhaul is always carried out with the removal and installation of the power unit, disassembly and assembly of the internal combustion engine, so that the engine works for a long time after repair, it is necessary to correctly troubleshoot.

What to consider when doing self-repair:

We disassemble the removed engine as follows (consider the example of the UMZ-417 engine):

• disconnect the manifold assembly with the carburetor from the block head. The two inner nuts are most difficult to crawl, so you should use a socket wrench (standard nuts are usually 14 mm);
• remove the valve cover (6 screws or bolts);
• dismantle the distributor drive, remove the two side covers of the pushers;
• unscrew the nuts securing the rocker arm axle (4 pcs.), remove the axle. We take out the rods (there are 8 of them), and then the pushers (also 8 pcs.);
• we unscrew the cylinder head fastening nuts, dismantle the block head. The head can sit tightly, but you do not need to apply much effort to remove it, and when removing it, you should try not to damage the surface of the cylinder head;
• why do we remove the crankshaft pulley, turn off the ratchet. It can be unscrewed with sharp hammer blows in a counterclockwise direction;
• then the hub should be dismantled; to remove it, you must use a special factory or homemade puller. When dismantling, it is necessary to secure the crankshaft from rotation;
• the next step is to remove the pallet (oil sump). After unscrewing all the nuts, gently knock on the pallet with a hammer, and if the crankcase does not come off, you can pry it with a screwdriver, pushing it between the block and the plane of the pallet. You should not regret the gasket (it is still a replacement), the main thing is not to damage the surfaces of the parts;
• remove the oil pump, it is supported by four nuts;
• dismantle the camshaft cover (unscrew 7 nuts);
• we turn off the connecting rod nuts, dismantle the connecting rod caps, take out the pistons together with the connecting rods. It is necessary to dismantle one connecting rod at a time and immediately bait the covers in place - the covers should not be confused with each other, they are not interchangeable;
• we unscrew the nuts of the main covers, dismantle the covers, take out the crankshaft assembly with the gear, flywheel and clutch;
• we turn the camshaft so that bolts appear under the holes in the camshaft. With a socket wrench, unscrew the two bolts by 12, dismantle the camshaft together with the gear.

Now it remains to disassemble the details:

• disconnect the manifold from the block head;
• dry up the valve;
• remove the clutch, gear and flywheel from the crankshaft;
• dismantle the gear from the camshaft;
• disconnect the pistons from the connecting rods.

Disassembly is complete, you can start troubleshooting parts.

Often on the old "UAZ" the engine completely depletes its resource, and then the car owners have a very reasonable question - how to replace the old engine. Installing an engine on the UAZ 402 is the most reasonable solution:

• the ZMZ-402 engine is more reliable than the "UAZ" one, and many such used engines in good enough condition are sold by hand;
• a minimum of alterations will be required for replacement - the Zavolzhsky ICE fits all mountings.

The "four hundred and second" engine has another very big plus - it will be the cheapest of all the proposed options that may exist when replacing the engine with a UAZ.

Installation of the ZMZ 406/405/409 engine on the UAZ will be somewhat more expensive. These motors are also suitable for mountings, but you will have to:

• deal with electrical wiring;
• adjust the front exhaust pipe.

In general, there are not very many alterations, but the 406 motors themselves are a little more expensive. There are UAZ car owners who install imported diesel engines on the car, but here you have to make a lot of changes to the design:

• remodel the exhaust system;
• digest motor and gearbox mountings;
• completely throw the wires;
• adjust the water connections in places.