DIY umz 4213 engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself umz 4213 engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The UMZ 4213 injector engine was produced by the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant. This engine became the direct heir to the ZMZ 402, only an injection version. Disadvantages and breakdowns in it are familiar to the owners of the classic versions of Volgovskih motors.

The UMZ 4213 engine is automobile motors that were installed on off-road vehicles and UAZ and GAZ trucks. The motors have an environmental standard of use Euro-4 and a capacity of 117 liters. With.

UMP uses dry liners, unlike its older brother ZMZ 402. Another design difference is the displaced pins of the piston group, and the unreliable stuffing box of the crankshaft was replaced with a rubber oil seal. The designers did not think of the need to install hydraulic lifters and the owners of the power unit have to adjust the valve clearances every 10,000 km.

Consider the main technical characteristics that the UMZ 4213 power units have:

All engines were equipped with a 5-speed manual gearbox. The clutch is installed dry.

How is maintenance carried out on the UMZ 421 engine? According to the factory data and technical maps, we will describe how maintenance is carried out for 4213. Maintenance of the power unit is carried out every 10 thousand km of run for operation on gasoline, and 8-9 thousand km - if there is a gas installation:

TO-0. 1000 km: change oil and oil filter.
10,000 km: replacement of oil, oil and air filters, spark plugs, high-voltage wires, fine fuel filter, valve clearance adjustment.
20,000 km: change oil, oil filter, fuel filter.
30,000 km: replacement of oil, oil and air filters, spark plugs, high-voltage wires, fuel fine filter.
40,000 km: change oil, oil filter, fuel filter, and generator.
50,000 km and subsequent: oil and oil filter change. Every 20,000 km it changes - the fuel and air filter, valves are adjusted.

Video (click to play).

The problems and disadvantages of the UMP engine are the same as those of the 402 engine, on the basis of which it was created. The designers have optimized and adapted the motor at least a little, but some drawbacks still remain. So, during operation, vibration, twitching and tripping of the power unit appear.

By and large, this is due to injection deficiencies. A plaque appears on the nozzles, which is removed by cleaning. As the practice of motorists shows, native parts should be replaced with higher-quality elements of analog production.

Another serious drawback is the flaw in the cooling system. So, an outdated thermostat system leads to constant overheating. But, everything changes dramatically with the installation of a kit kit for the coolant system. Also, high fuel consumption can be attributed to the disadvantage, but with such a volume of the engine, this is not surprising.

The system can be upgraded by flashing the electronic control unit of the power unit, where you can reduce consumption, or sacrifice this function and increase power characteristics.

To improve engine performance, the vehicle owner is encouraged to install a turbine. So, we leave the standard shafts, the piston standard, modify the cylinder head, channels, combustion chambers, grind, buy, a small 17th Garrett with an intercooler, cook a manifold for it, buy Subaru 440 cc injectors, exhaust on 63 pipe is direct-flow, adjust and we get a tractor motor with low power, but with a good torque.

The UMZ 4213 engine is designed on the classic version of the ZMZ 402. The engine turned out to be quite good, if you do not take into account the nuance that all the disadvantages of the Volga power unit remained inevitable. But, in this case, the car enthusiast is offered the option of modernization and tuning.

We remove the engine from the car (see.Removing the engine) and clean it from the outside from dirt and oil.
Remove the oil filter and the right power unit support bracket.
We fix the engine on the stand by the studs of the right support bracket.
We take out the oil dipstick.

Remove the fan impeller, accessory drive belts, generator and starter.

Using the "24" wrench, weaken the tightening of the union and turn it with the tap up.

Turn off the oil cooler tap using the "19" key.

Finally, we unscrew the fitting with the valve.

… And remove the oil pressure gauge sensor.

The flare connection of the sensor is sealed with two washers.

We turn off the emergency oil pressure sensor (see Replacing the lubrication system sensors).
Remove the fine fuel filter (see Replacing the fine fuel filter).
Remove the fuel pump (see Removing and disassembling the fuel pump).
We remove the distributor sensor together with the drive and high-voltage wires (see Removing the distributor sensor).
In order not to lose bolts, nuts and washers, after removing the next part ...

... we bait them into place (but only where it will not interfere with further disassembly).

We remove the starter (see. Removing the starter).
Remove the intake manifold and exhaust manifold (see Removing the intake manifold and exhaust manifold).

... and "14" we unscrew the two mounting bolts of the amplifier and remove it.

We turn the engine over with the crankcase up. Remove the clutch release fork (see Removing the pressure and driven clutch discs). Remove the flywheel (see Replacing the rear crankshaft seal).

Using the "14" wrench, unscrew the two bolts of the upper fastening of the clutch housing ...

... and with the same wrench, two middle bolts.

With an open-end wrench "17", unscrew the two bolts of the lower crankcase mounting.

Remove the upper part of the crankcase.

Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the two lower bolts and three bolts of the upper cuff mounting plates and remove the plates.

We turn the engine to its original position and remove the cylinder head (see Removing the cylinder head).
We turn the engine with the front part up. Remove the crankshaft pulley with the bushing (see Replacing the front crankshaft seal).
Remove the coolant pump (see Replacing the coolant pump).

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the nut ...

... and remove the cover of the pusher box and its gasket.

Remove the second cover (with oil separator) in the same way.

On an engine with a working volume of 2.5 liters ...

... we take out the eight valve pushers and number them (or put them in order).

To prevent cylinder liners from falling out, ...

... we fix them with a device.

We turn the engine over with the pallet up.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the 18 pallet fixing nuts.

If some nuts are turned out together with the studs, degrease and lubricate the threads of the studs and the hole in the block with anaerobic sealant before screwing them in.
Shaped washers are installed under the corner nuts for securing the pallet.

We remove the front and rear parts of the gasket from the pallet, ...

... and from the block - the side parts of the pallet gasket.

Using the "13" key, unscrew the three remaining nuts securing the front cover of the cylinder block ...

... and with keys "12" and "14" a bolt with a nut for fastening the cover.

Remove the cover gasket by prying it off with a sharp tool.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the discharge pipe of the oil pump.

Using a 12 key, unscrew the two bolts securing the pump to the crankshaft main bearing cover.

Remove the oil pump.

A gasket is installed between the pipe and the block.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the pipe to the pump.

Remove the pipe and gasket.

Using the "12" wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the oil intake mesh ...

Use a screwdriver to bend the antennae of the locking plates ...

... and with the "10" head unscrew the four bolts connecting the cover to the pump casing.

We take out the bolts.

... and, having marked the relative position of the parts, remove the oil intake, taking care not to damage the gasket.

We take out the pressure reducing valve with a spring from the oil intake.

Remove the cover from the pump housing.

Shims are installed between the body and the cover.

We assemble the pump by lubricating its parts with engine oil and washing the oil intake mesh from deposits with a solvent.

Remove the crankshaft front end oil deflector.

We turn the engine crankshaft so that the holes in the camshaft gear are opposite the heads of the camshaft thrust flange bolts.

To replace the camshaft gear.

... with a key "17" unscrew the bolt securing the camshaft gear ...

... and remove it together with the washers.

With a long head "12" through the hole in the gear, we unscrew the two bolts securing the thrust flange.

We remove the camshaft together with the gear.

With a special puller, we remove the gear from the camshaft and press a new one through the mandrel (for example, with a head of a suitable diameter).

ATTENTION
When removing and installing the gear, do not strike or apply force to the plastic part, as it may be damaged.

In order not to confuse the pushers, we put them in order or put notes with a serial number in them.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew two nuts ...

The cover is seated on a sealant, so you should first swing it with pliers.

Using the "15" head, turn off the connecting rod cap nuts.

Lightly tapping on the sides of the cover, pull it off the bolts.

ATTENTION
Do not remove the cover by inserting a screwdriver or chisel into the gap between the cover and the connecting rod, as the seating planes will be damaged.

If necessary, knock out the connecting rod bolts through a thin soft metal bit.

Remove the connecting rod cover together with the liner.

We take out the piston with the connecting rod from the cylinder block.

Likewise, we take out the pistons of the remaining cylinders. The sequence of disassembly of the connecting rod-piston group - reverse assembly (see. Assembling the connecting rod-piston group).

Using the "22" head, unscrew the nuts of the main bearing caps.

ATTENTION
Be sure to mark the number of each cover and its position with a punch. When reassembling, all covers should only be installed in their original places.

Tapping lightly on the root covers, ...

… We remove them one by one together with the inserts.

With a puller, we press the gear together with the thrust washer.

When assembling, we install the washer in such a way that the chamfer of the hole is facing in the opposite direction from the gear.

Knock out the pinion key from the groove on the crankshaft.

Remove the thrust washers (liners) limiting the axial movement of the crankshaft.

After grinding the necks of the crankshaft with a hexagon "14" or a bolt with a head "14" and locked nuts, unscrew the plugs.

We thoroughly clean the channels for the passage of oil in the crankshaft from deposits and residues of abrasive (in case the crankshaft has undergone regrinding). We wash the channels of the crankshaft with kerosene, gasoline or diesel fuel and blow it off with compressed air.

We install in place the plugs of the oil channels.

With a beard, we cut out the edges of the plugs.

We carry out further assembly of the crankshaft in the reverse order of disassembly.

The Ulyanovsk Motor Plant began to produce high-power engines since 1997, the carburetor UMP 4215 became the first internal combustion engine with a cylinder diameter of 100 mm, and in 1998 Ulyanovsk residents developed a new 110-horsepower injection engine. sec., corresponding to Euro-2 standards. Gasoline engines UMZ 4216 in experimental batches began to be produced in 2003, and soon they were put into series.

Model 4216 is installed on GAZ vehicles; this power unit is used in commercial Gazelle vehicles. In 2008, the Ulyanovsk engine was improved, and it began to comply with the Euro 3 standards, and since 2012 it has been brought up to the Euro 4 standard.In 2013, hydraulic expansion joints began to be used on this engine, since 2014, the Ulyanovsk plant began assembling 2.7-liter EvoTech engines, which are installed on Gazelle Business and Gazelle Next commercial vehicles.

Read also: DIY usb modem repair

The prototype of the engine of the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant is the ZMZ-21 engine - it has essentially the same design:

aluminum block of cylinders;
upper arrangement of valves;
gear drive of the gas distribution mechanism;
aluminum rods;
the lower location of the camshaft;
two valves per cylinder.

Even the oil sump has a similar configuration - it is also steel, stamped, with recesses in the front and rear.

As in the ZMZ-21, on the Ulyanovsk engine, pistons with connecting rods are connected by means of "floating" piston pins - the pistons are seated on a "cold" one, copper (bronze) bushings are pressed into the upper connecting rod bushings.

On all UMP engines with a cylinder diameter of 92 mm, “wet” removable liners are installed in the cylinder block (BC). In a block with a piston diameter of 100 mm (models UMZ 4215, 4213 and 4216), the sleeves are pressed using special equipment, and during repairs it will not be possible to press them out, therefore, if the cylinders are significantly worn out, the BC needs to be replaced.

The 4216 engine consists of the following parts:

The gas distribution mechanism (camshaft) is driven from the crankshaft through a pair of gears. The camshaft cams, through the tappets and rods, raise and lower the rocker arms, which in turn push the intake and exhaust valves. Due to the valves, the cylinders are filled with a fuel-air mixture, and the engine's operating cycle occurs.

On a Gazelle Business car, the UMZ 4216 engine is equipped with an electronic control system, which includes:

control unit MIKAS;
ignition module;
high-voltage wires with lugs;
sensors - throttle valve, to / shaft and p / shaft, absolute pressure, detonation;
wiring;
idle speed regulator;
fuel injectors.

Motor 4216 - four-stroke, in-line four cylinders, 8-valve. The internal combustion engine is designed to run on AI-92 gasoline; it is allowed to use higher quality fuel, for example, AI-95 gasoline. The technical characteristics of the UMZ-42164 (Euro-4) modification engine are as follows:

volume - 2890 cm³;
diameter of standard pistons - 100 mm;
compression ratio (compression in cylinders) - 9.2;
piston stroke - 92 mm;
power - 107 liters. With.;
the engine cooling system is liquid (antifreeze or antifreeze is poured in).

The block and cylinder head are cast from an aluminum alloy. The engine of the first completeness weighs 177 kg, the power unit itself is included in the complete set of the motor, and attachments are also installed on it:

starter;
generator;
intake manifold (receiver);
ignition module with wires and lugs;
drive belts;
water pump;
crankshaft pulley;
basket and clutch disc;
ECM sensors.

According to the factory standards, the fuel consumption of the Gazelle with the Ulyanovsk ICE is 10 l / 100 km on the highway outside the city, in mixed mode it is 11 l / 100 km. In practice, more gasoline is usually consumed, a lot depends:

from the congestion of the car;
speed limit;
the period of operation (in winter, more fuel is consumed for heating).

The engine of the UMZ 42164-80 modification is equipped with hydraulic compensators; this engine is used in the Sobol Business and Gazelle Business commercial cars. The 42164-80 model differs little from the standard 4216 motor - this engine is equipped with other, special stays, in the upper part of which the compensators themselves are attached.

Crankshaft 4216 consists of four connecting rod and five main connecting rod journals, has diameters:

root necks - 64 mm;
connecting rod journals - 58 mm.

All journals are equipped with two steel-babbit liners, the factory tolerance for the crankshaft dimensions is 0.013 mm.During the repair of the Ulyanovsk engine, the main and connecting rod journals are measured with a micrometer - if they are worn more than 0.05 mm, the shaft is subject to mandatory grinding. The diameter of the piston pins is 25 mm, the pins are installed in the bronze bushings of the connecting rods. Over time, both the fingers themselves and the bushings can wear out; in the event of backlash in the connection, the parts must be replaced.

The crankshaft in the cylinder block is mounted on supports with covers, which are tightened with bolts with a certain effort. Each cover has its own place - they should not be confused in places, moreover, picked up from another BC. Also, the covers must be locked to the lock - if they are installed incorrectly, the crankshaft may not turn (it will be clamped), and even if the shaft turns, the engine will quickly fail.

The resource of the 4216 engine, declared by the manufacturer, is 250 thousand km, but often the engines fail ahead of schedule. Frequent ICE problems:

leaking engine oil;
increased oil burnout through the piston rings:
knock of valves, which is sometimes difficult to eliminate;
overheat;
failure of various sensors.

Various breakdowns can occur prematurely for different reasons:

the driver violates the operating conditions - the motor overheats due to overload;
maintenance standards are not followed;
the car is operated in difficult road conditions.

Unfortunately, defects are often found in UMP engines, but ZMZ motors are not insured against this either. If the 4216 engine troit (jerks), the cause of the malfunction may be both the engine itself and a breakdown in the ECM. To determine the cause of the defect, it is necessary to diagnose the internal combustion engine.

There are the most controversial reviews about the UMZ 4216 engine - some owners of Gazelles praise UAZ engines and believe that they:

Indeed, the UMZ 4216 engine is very simple, especially since it has significant similarities with the ZMZ-402 internal combustion engine. The design of the power unit is familiar to many drivers, and such an engine can be repaired almost in the field. Some difficulty for car owners is the electronic equipment of the motor - after all, the injector is somewhat more complicated than the carburetor device.

You can also hear extremely negative responses from the owners of Gazelles with UAZ engines:

the engine is prone to overheating;
sensors often fail, so the motor starts to triple and does not go;
the engine consumes oil, it flows wherever possible.

Unfortunately, a lot of scrap comes from the Ulyanovsk plant, and basically those drivers who get a defective internal combustion engine complain about the Ulyanovsk motor. There are several typical factory "blunders" that are quite common on the UMP 4216:

the intake manifold cracks and begins to suck in air;
the pump does not provide the required oil pressure;
the electromagnetic cooling clutch refuses to work, and the motor begins to overheat.

Drivers of such unsuccessful "Gazelles" note that the engine often has to be "refined with a file." It was also noticed that if the motor is completely sorted out with our own hands, breakdowns in it occur much less often, the main thing is to assemble the engine using original parts of good quality.

During the operation of the Gazelle with the UMZ 4216 engine, various breakdowns occur, one of the most common problems is engine overheating. If the cooling system "airs", antifreeze (antifreeze) starts to be thrown out of the expansion tank. As a result of overheating, it often breaks through the block head gasket - changing the PHBTs as a whole is not difficult, and often drivers make such repairs on their own.

But the problem in case of overheating is different - often from the high temperature on the pistons partitions burst, the piston rings "lie". To replace the pistons or rings, it is not necessary to remove the engine, it is enough just to throw off the block head and the oil pan.

UMP 4216 overhaul is necessary in cases when:

worn or damaged cylinder liners;
the crankshaft knocks (wears out);
low oil pressure in the system, and replacing the oil pump does not give positive results.

Often the Ulyanovsk engine is overheated, and drivers take various measures to get rid of this unpleasant and dangerous phenomenon for the internal combustion engine. Many Gazelle owners install a three-row copper radiator instead of the standard aluminum one - copper cools antifreeze more efficiently. Another method to combat overheating is to install an electric cooling fan with a toggle switch located in the driver's cab. At the moment when the sensor arrow on the dashboard begins to show the critical temperature of the coolant, the driver forcibly turns on the fan, and the temperature regime returns to normal.

In the case of purchasing a Gazelle with an unsuccessful engine, car owners seek to get rid of the power unit, replacing it with an internal combustion engine of another model. Many different options can be considered for replacement, but most often the owners of commercial cars install ZMZ-405 engines, this particular engine is chosen for a number of reasons:

The Zavolzhsky engine is not capricious - it “digests” Russian fuel well, it rarely breaks down;
relatively imported power units (Cummins, Toyota, Nissan) ZMZ-405 is inexpensive;
when installing ZMZ, a minimum of rework is required.

Recently, the Cummins turbodiesel has been regularly installed on Gazelle Business cars, but owners of cars with UMP-4216 almost never consider this engine as a replacement:

Cummins isn't cheap;
The American engine is very sensitive to the quality of fuel, and if the car is filled with bad diesel fuel, Cummins can quickly fail.

The advantage of the ZMZ-405 (or 406) also lies in the fact that a lot of used engines are sold in the secondary market in normal, working condition, and their price is several times lower than a new internal combustion engine. True, when buying a used unit, there are no serious guarantees - you have to take the seller's word for it. But even if the 405 requires minor repairs (replacement of chains or piston rings), it is still much cheaper to purchase it together with the repair than to purchase an expensive imported engine. Another minus of the imported internal combustion engine is that if it was not serially installed on the Gazelle, it will have to be purchased together with the gearbox or be puzzled by the fit of the Gazel gearbox to the new engine.

Ulyanovsk Motor Plant OJSC specializes in the production of automobile four-cylinder in-line gasoline engines.Since 1970, the enterprise began to produce automobile engines with a working volume of 2.445 liters, the main consumer of which was the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant.By the 90s, there was a need to increase the speed and traction-dynamic characteristics of manufactured cars, which required the creation of engines with increased torque and increased maximum power. In this regard, an engine of the UMZ-421 model with a working volume of 2.89 liters was developed and since 1996 began to be mass-produced.An increase in the working volume was obtained by increasing the cylinder diameter to 100 mm and the introduction of a new design of an aluminum cylinder block with cast iron liners. The engine of the UMZ-421 model is completely interchangeable with engines of the 2.445l family and was installed on cars of previous releases without alterations.Since 1998, UMP OJSC began supplying engines of the UMZ-4215 model with a working volume of 2.89 liters for completing a number of modifications of low-tonnage trucks for GAZ OJSC.

Read also: DIY 4d33 engine repair

In order to meet the increasing requirements in terms of increasing energy performance, improving fuel efficiency and environmental characteristics (reducing toxicity and noise), models of engines UMZ-4213 ("UAZ") and UMZ-4216 ("GAZelle") were developed on the basis of the UMZ-421 engine with integrated microprocessor-based fuel injection control system andignition.Since 1999, industrial batches of such engines began to roll off the assembly line of the enterprise.In 2006, the UMZ-4213 and UMZ-4216 engines received a certificate of compliance with the Euro-2 standards and have been serially produced since the official introduction of the standards.This publication is dedicated to the UMZ-4213 and UMZ-4216 engines that meet the requirements of Euro-3 standards as part of UAZ and GAZelle vehicles.In order to ensure the Euro-3 environmental standards and improve the technical and economic indicators, UMP OJSC in 2007 made a number of changes to the engine design:

the compression ratio was increased from 8.2 to 8.8, allowing to increase the rated power and maximum torque, to reduce the minimum specific fuel consumption;

the design of the crankshaft damper has been changed, which ensures the reliability of the readout of the crankshaft position signal;

used sleeves with an outlet to the upper plane of the block, increasing the reliability of the gas joint "cylinder block cylinder head";

the oil sump ventilation system has been improved to minimize oil carryover with crankcase gases;

new components (ignition coils, temperature sensor) were used to ensure the reliability of electrical connections;

spark plugs with a long threaded part were introduced, which made it possible to increase their reliability in the engine configuration, reduce the thermal load on the plug, improve the seal, expand the range of spark plugs used, both domestic and foreign;

an absolute air pressure sensor with a built-in temperature sensor in the engine control system was used instead of a mass flow sensor, which made it possible to simplify the accounting of air entering the engine, including in the event of a leak in the intake system.

JSC "UMP" is constantly improving the design of engine units and parts, so they may slightly differ from those described in this publication.At the request of our client, to whom we have capitalized the Oka engine for gas fuel, we have taken into operation an engine from an UAZ. The machine is a “loaf” that the owner uses in the Ryazan region. He removed the engine assembled on his own and brought it to our Workshop.So, the UMZ 4218 engine, with a working volume of 2.89 liters, with a piston diameter of 100 mm. The car is operated only on gas. The reason for the repair is unrecoverable oil leaks, as well as high oil consumption for waste. The design of the motor is bottom-shaft, the valve drive is by rods. The cylinder block is aluminum, with cast iron liners. Progress made its way to this ancient engine - the crankshaft acquired full-fledged oil seals, and later received an injection injection system. But we got a carburetor engine.We begin to disassemble this miracle of technology. Under the valve cover lies the rocker axle. All this is removed quite easily. The engine flowed with oil from almost everywhere. According to the owner, the pallet pad alone was changed several times.After removing the clutch housing and flywheel, it was time to remove the cylinder head. It is not difficult to unscrew it, but they took it off for about an hour - she was so attached to the hairpins! It is very difficult to pick up something, everything is made of aluminum. We suffered, but did. The head was already repaired in a well-known company in Moscow - valves, guides, saddles were changed, the plane was milled. The plane is milled by 3.90 mm, the owner also replaced the valve drive rods with shorter ones. All this is for raising the compression ratio for gas fuel.There are no longer any traces of hone in the cylinders. The head was disassembled, everything was defective - the valve guides are worn out (30 thousand km mileage after repair!), The valves are loose. The saddles sagged slightly due to the gas.The head has undergone a standard repair procedure. The saddles were replaced. The inlet ones were installed as usual, and on the outlet - steel, made of a special alloy. This option has a greater resource for working on gas fuel. The saddle effect is still there, but not as great as with a cast iron saddle.The guide sleeves are set in bronze, of their own manufacture. The bronze grade has been tested on foreign cars and has a high resource. But, for the valve mechanism to work properly, the valve stems must necessarily be hardened with either chromium or nitriding. In our case, we bought and installed ZMZ “Double Resource” valves, with chrome-plated rods. The valve stem seals were installed by domestic ones - there is no point in taking risks with Chinese products. The plane was milled “as clean”, the head was washed and assembled.We bore the block to the 1st oversize of 100.5 mm, buy pistons from the factory UMP, piston rings, at the customer's request, we complete from two sets - compression ZMZ (Buzuluk), oil scraper - type-setting Stapri.The cylinders were plate honed on the Sunnen machine, the crankshaft was in perfect condition and did not require grinding. The camshaft bed is also in excellent condition - no wear and tear.
For several days in the machining shops there were jokes about the street racing loaf, which is prepared in the “K-POWER Workshop”, mercilessly forcing the ancient engine. The jokes, of course, were ignored.
Well, we continue to assemble the engine. No afterburner, of course - just a quality repair. The parts of the oil pump are in good condition, nothing needed to be changed. We update liners and oil seals. The rear oil seal here is from the 2108 engine, and the front oil seal is original.The camshaft was also left at the factory, the textolite gear was in excellent condition (it was changed 30 thousand km ago, when the engine was being repaired). The camshaft gear is combined with the crankshaft in a simple way - according to the factory label.
The owner of the car asked to replace the front cover with a cover from the UMZ injection engine from the Gazelle - it has a drill for the hairpin of the poly V-belt roller, which the owner was going to install.
Installing the head is not difficult, we use a new Fritex gasket with sealant, put the brackets on the studs as they stood before disassembly and tighten all the nuts.

It turned out to be convenient to adjust the valve clearances with the engine sump removed, observing the position of the camshaft cams. Then we close the valve cover by installing a new gasket.
I had to tinker with the installation of the pallet. The plant offers to assemble a pallet on a gasket consisting of 4 pieces of cork rubber. After examining all this, a verdict was made - THIS will not work - oil leakage is ensured. It should be noted that for one and a half years we have been collecting all pallets only for sealant, without gaskets. This fully justifies itself - the engines are dry. However, this method requires thorough cleaning and degreasing of all surfaces. In this case, our engine was washed with chemistry and there are no traces of oil. But how do you apply a sealant to those monstrous crevices that a finger can crawl into ?! And yet they did. Layer by layer, on both planes. It took two people to work. After installing the pallet and tightening all the hardware, all the cracks were additionally missed and leveled with sealant. Almost two tubes of sealant went to the pallet.The camshaft plug was also smeared with a special sealant, oil also flowed from it. The gasket for the manifolds was installed from an injection engine, steel. It is completely suitable instead of paronite and is more reliable.After assembling the engine, the owner took it to the Ryazan region for further installation in the engine compartment of the “loaf”.Posted on January 2, 2014
The author of the article, photo-video materials: hello please tell me. after repairing the cylinder head 402 of the engine, its height became 9.2 what can 2 gaskets be put on

And about the inserts, it's funny, probably a million will run now: D

Get rid of the guys from such engines, this stuffing is still a disease, it is better to take it with an oil seal. And with a padded engine you will always be in shit

about the liners, there is a cut, but there is no type of lubrication and no, but isn’t there is oil replenishment from these well, how is it where the pillows are placed.

Hello, tell me, I disassembled the engine and there is no mark on the crankshaft gears. what can be done. there is still a gap on the camshaft gears by mm

handsome so that you live happily ever after and in abundance. Thanks for the explanation about the crankshaft key

I don't know if the author is doing everything right, but there is definitely a benefit from such videos. At least now I know the device of my motor. So thanks for the hard work

It would be a good idea to lubricate the working edge of the front oil seal with oil before pressing the flange.

Why bother so much with hammering the flywheel bolts, risking damaging the surface under the oil seal, if you can SIMPLY screw on the nut from the back side and press the bolt by screwing on this nut

I'll give you this our cat. smiled

in my life I would not go to such a master, I have never seen such a collective farm anywhere

the camshaft is normal means the pump?

Hello, I made a capital, I bought two sets of an insert I assembled I started the same at idle, the light bulb lights up, the pump did not change what could be?

Yes, the inserts are of course a perversion. any owner would drive, and buy 2 set of lizhs, it would be wrong not to collective farms. as well as a cool video for ordinary garage owners and motorists. and the most interesting thing is that all this will go golgo and fast

Hello Sergey, can I change the camshaft gear? I don’t remove the motor on the Volga?

BOJE SAFE FROM SUCH A MASTER WITH A HAMMER

Good day. The following question arose: when installing the cover of the distribution gears, part of the excess sealant can be squeezed inward to the gears, is it worth it to be afraid? And will the sealant get into the lubrication system in this way?