DIY umz 4213 engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself umz 4213 engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The UMZ 4213 injector engine was produced by the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant. This engine became the direct heir to the ZMZ 402, only an injection version. Disadvantages and breakdowns in it are familiar to the owners of classic versions of Volgovskih motors.

The UMZ 4213 engine is automobile motors that were installed on off-road vehicles and UAZ and GAZ trucks. The motors have an environmental standard of use Euro-4 and a capacity of 117 liters. With.

UMP uses dry liners, unlike its older brother ZMZ 402. Another design difference is the displaced pins of the piston group, and the unreliable stuffing box of the crankshaft was replaced with a rubber oil seal. The designers did not think of the need to install hydraulic lifters and the owners of the power unit have to adjust the valve clearances every 10,000 km.

Consider the main technical characteristics that the UMZ 4213 power units have:

All engines were equipped with a 5-speed manual gearbox. The clutch is installed dry.

How is maintenance carried out on the UMP 421 engine? According to the factory data and technical maps, we will describe how maintenance is carried out for 4213. Maintenance of the power unit is carried out every 10 thousand km of run for operation on gasoline, and 8-9 thousand km - if there is a gas installation:

  1. TO-0. 1000 km: change oil and oil filter.
  2. 10,000 km: replacement of oil, oil and air filters, spark plugs, high-voltage wires, fine fuel filter, valve clearance adjustment.
  3. 20,000 km: change oil, oil filter, fuel filter.
  4. 30,000 km: replacement of oil, oil and air filters, spark plugs, high-voltage wires, fuel fine filter.
  5. 40,000 km: change oil, oil filter, fuel filter, and generator.
  6. 50,000 km and subsequent: oil and oil filter change. Every 20,000 km it changes - the fuel and air filter, the valves are adjusted.
Video (click to play).

The problems and disadvantages of the UMP engine are the same as those of the 402 engine, on the basis of which it was created. The designers have optimized and adapted the motor at least a little, but some drawbacks still remain. So, during operation, vibration, twitching and tripping of the power unit appear.

By and large, this is due to injection deficiencies. A plaque appears on the nozzles, which is removed by cleaning. As the practice of motorists shows, native parts should be replaced with higher-quality elements of analog production.

Another serious drawback is the flaw in the cooling system. So, an outdated thermostat system leads to constant overheating. But, everything changes dramatically with the installation of a kit kit for the coolant system. Also, high fuel consumption can be attributed to the disadvantage, but with such a volume of the engine, this is not surprising.

The system can be upgraded by flashing the electronic control unit of the power unit, where you can reduce consumption, or sacrifice this function and increase power characteristics.

To improve engine performance, the vehicle owner is encouraged to install a turbine. So, we leave the standard shafts, the piston standard, modify the cylinder head, channels, combustion chambers, grind, buy, a small 17th Garrett with an intercooler, cook a manifold for it, buy Subaru 440 cc injectors, exhaust on 63 pipe is direct-flow, adjust and we get a tractor motor with low power, but with a good torque.

The UMZ 4213 engine is designed on the classic version of the ZMZ 402. The engine turned out to be quite good, if you do not take into account the nuance that all the disadvantages of the Volga power unit remained inevitable. But, in this case, the car enthusiast is offered the option of modernization and tuning.

We remove the engine from the car (see Removing the engine) and clean it from the outside from dirt and oil.
Remove the oil filter and the right power unit support bracket.
We fix the engine on the stand by the studs of the right support bracket.
We take out the oil dipstick.

Remove the fan impeller, accessory drive belts, generator and starter.

Using the "24" wrench, weaken the tightening of the union and turn it with the tap up.

Turn off the oil cooler tap using the "19" key.

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Finally, we unscrew the fitting with the valve.

… And remove the oil pressure gauge sensor.

The flush connection of the sensor is sealed with two washers.

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We turn off the emergency oil pressure sensor (see Replacing the lubrication system sensors).
Remove the fine fuel filter (see Replacing the fine fuel filter).
Remove the fuel pump (see Removing and disassembling the fuel pump).
We remove the distributor sensor together with the drive and high-voltage wires (see Removing the distributor sensor).
In order not to lose bolts, nuts and washers, after removing the next part ...

... we bait them into place (but only where it will not interfere with further disassembly).

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We remove the starter (see. Removing the starter).
Remove the intake manifold and exhaust manifold (see Removing the intake manifold and exhaust manifold).

... and "14" we unscrew the two mounting bolts of the amplifier and remove it.

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We turn the engine over with the crankcase up. Remove the clutch release fork (see Removing the pressure and driven clutch discs). Remove the flywheel (see Replacing the rear crankshaft seal).

Using the "14" wrench, unscrew the two bolts of the upper fastening of the clutch housing ...

... and with the same wrench, two middle bolts.

With an open-end wrench "17", unscrew the two bolts of the lower crankcase mounting.

Remove the upper part of the crankcase.

Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the two lower bolts and three bolts of the upper cuff mounting plates and remove the plates.

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We turn the engine to its original position and remove the cylinder head (see Removing the cylinder head).
We turn the engine with the front part up. Remove the crankshaft pulley with the bushing (see Replacing the front crankshaft seal).
Remove the coolant pump (see Replacing the coolant pump).

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the nut ...

... and remove the cover of the pusher box and its gasket.

Remove the second cover (with oil separator) in the same way.

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On an engine with a working volume of 2.5 liters ...

... we take out the eight valve pushers and number them (or put them in order).

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To prevent cylinder liners from falling out, ...

... we fix them with a device.

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We turn the engine over with the pallet up.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the 18 pallet fixing nuts.

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If some nuts are turned out together with the studs, before screwing them in, degrease and lubricate the threads of the studs and the hole in the block with an anaerobic sealant.
Shaped washers are installed under the corner nuts for securing the pallet.

We remove the front and rear parts of the gasket from the pallet, ...

... and from the block - the side parts of the pallet gasket.

Using the "13" key, unscrew the three remaining nuts securing the front cover of the cylinder block ...

... and with keys "12" and "14" a bolt with a nut for fastening the cover.

Remove the cover gasket by prying it off with a sharp tool.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the discharge pipe of the oil pump.

Using a 12 key, unscrew the two bolts securing the pump to the crankshaft main bearing cover.

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We remove the oil pump.

A gasket is installed between the pipe and the block.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the pipe to the pump.

Remove the pipe and gasket.

Using the "12" wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the oil intake mesh ...

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Use a screwdriver to bend the antennae of the locking plates ...

... and with the "10" head unscrew the four bolts connecting the cover to the pump casing.

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We take out the bolts.

... and, having marked the relative position of the parts, remove the oil intake, taking care not to damage the gasket.

We take out the pressure reducing valve with a spring from the oil intake.

Remove the cover from the pump housing.

Shims are installed between the body and the cover.

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We assemble the pump by lubricating its parts with engine oil and washing the oil intake mesh from deposits with a solvent.

Remove the oil deflector at the front end of the crankshaft.

We turn the engine crankshaft so that the holes in the camshaft gear are opposite the heads of the camshaft thrust flange bolts.

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To replace the camshaft gear.

... with a key "17" unscrew the bolt securing the camshaft gear ...

... and remove it together with the washers.

With a long head "12" through the hole in the gear, we unscrew the two bolts securing the thrust flange.

We remove the camshaft together with the gear.

With a special puller, we remove the gear from the camshaft and press a new one through the mandrel (for example, with a head of a suitable diameter).

ATTENTION
When removing and installing the gear, do not strike or apply force to the plastic part, as it may be damaged.

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In order not to confuse the pushers, we arrange them in order or put notes with a serial number in them.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew two nuts ...

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The cover is seated on a sealant, so you should first swing it with pliers.

Using the "15" head, turn off the connecting rod cap nuts.

Lightly tapping on the sides of the cover, pull it off the bolts.

ATTENTION
Do not remove the cover by inserting a screwdriver or chisel into the gap between the cover and the connecting rod, as the seating planes will be damaged.

If necessary, knock out the connecting rod bolts through a thin soft metal bit.

Remove the connecting rod cover together with the liner.

We take out the piston with the connecting rod from the cylinder block.

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Likewise, we take out the pistons of the remaining cylinders. The sequence of disassembly of the connecting rod-piston group - reverse assembly (see. Assembling the connecting rod-piston group).

Using the "22" head, unscrew the nuts of the main bearing caps.

ATTENTION
Be sure to mark the number of each cover and its position with a punch. When reassembling, all covers should only be installed in their original places.

Tapping lightly on the root covers, ...

… We remove them one by one together with the inserts.

With a puller, we press the gear together with the thrust washer.

When assembling, we install the washer in such a way that the chamfer of the hole faces in the opposite direction from the gear.

Knock out the pinion key from the groove on the crankshaft.

Remove the thrust washers (liners) limiting the axial movement of the crankshaft.

After grinding the necks of the crankshaft with a hexagon "14" or a bolt with a head "14" and locked nuts, unscrew the plugs.

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We thoroughly clean the channels for the passage of oil in the crankshaft from deposits and residues of abrasive (in case the crankshaft has undergone regrinding). We wash the channels of the crankshaft with kerosene, gasoline or diesel fuel and blow it off with compressed air.

We install in place the plugs of the oil channels.

With a beard, we cut out the edges of the plugs.

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We carry out further assembly of the crankshaft in the reverse order of disassembly.

The Ulyanovsk Motor Plant began to produce engines of increased power since 1997, the carburetor UMP 4215 became the first internal combustion engine with a cylinder diameter of 100 mm, and in 1998 Ulyanovsk residents developed a new 110 hp injection engine. sec., corresponding to Euro-2 standards. Gasoline engines UMZ 4216 in pilot batches began to be produced in 2003, and soon they were put into series.Image - DIY umz 4213 engine repair

Model 4216 is installed on GAZ vehicles; this power unit is used in Gazelle commercial vehicles. In 2008, the Ulyanovsk engine was improved, and it began to comply with Euro 3 standards, and since 2012 it has been brought up to the Euro 4 standard.In 2013, hydraulic expansion joints began to be used on this engine, since 2014, the Ulyanovsk plant began assembling 2.7-liter EvoTech engines, which are installed on Gazelle Business and Gazelle Next commercial vehicles.

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The prototype of the engine of the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant is the ZMZ-21 engine - it has essentially the same design:

  • aluminum block of cylinders;
  • upper arrangement of valves;
  • gear drive of the gas distribution mechanism;
  • aluminum rods;
  • the lower location of the camshaft;
  • two valves per cylinder.

Even the oil sump has a similar configuration - it is also steel, stamped, with recesses at the front and rear.Image - DIY umz 4213 engine repair

As in the ZMZ-21, on the Ulyanovsk engine, pistons with connecting rods are connected by means of "floating" piston pins - the pistons are seated on a "cold" one, copper (bronze) bushings are pressed into the upper connecting rod bushings.

On all UMP engines with a cylinder diameter of 92 mm, “wet” removable liners are installed in the cylinder block (BC). In a block with a piston diameter of 100 mm (models UMZ 4215, 4213 and 4216), the sleeves are pressed using special equipment, and during repairs it will not be possible to press them out, therefore, if the cylinders are significantly worn out, the BC needs to be replaced.

The 4216 engine consists of the following parts:

    an aluminum cylinder block into which four cast iron liners are pressed; Image - DIY umz 4213 engine repair

The gas distribution mechanism (camshaft) is driven from the crankshaft through a pair of gears. The camshaft cams, through the tappets and rods, raise and lower the rocker arms, which in turn push the intake and exhaust valves. Due to the valves, the cylinders are filled with a fuel-air mixture, and the engine's operating cycle occurs.

On a Gazelle Business car, the UMZ 4216 engine is equipped with an electronic control system, which includes:

  • control unit MIKAS;
  • ignition module;
  • high-voltage wires with lugs;
  • sensors - throttle valve, to / shaft and p / shaft, absolute pressure, detonation;
  • wiring;
  • idle speed regulator;
  • fuel injectors.

Motor 4216 - four-stroke, in-line four cylinders, 8-valve. The internal combustion engine is designed to run on AI-92 gasoline; it is allowed to use higher quality fuel, for example, AI-95 gasoline. The technical characteristics of the UMZ-42164 (Euro-4) modification engine are as follows:

  • volume - 2890 cm³;
  • diameter of standard pistons - 100 mm;
  • compression ratio (compression in cylinders) - 9.2;
  • piston stroke - 92 mm;
  • power - 107 liters. With.;
  • the engine cooling system is liquid (antifreeze or antifreeze is poured in).

The block and cylinder head are cast from an aluminum alloy. The engine of the first completeness weighs 177 kg, the power unit itself is included in the complete set of the motor, and attachments are also installed on it:

  • starter;
  • generator;
  • intake manifold (receiver);
  • ignition module with wires and lugs;
  • drive belts;
  • water pump;
  • crankshaft pulley;
  • basket and clutch disc;
  • ECM sensors.

According to the factory standards, the fuel consumption of the Gazelle with the Ulyanovsk ICE is 10 l / 100 km on the highway outside the city, in mixed mode it is 11 l / 100 km. In practice, more gasoline is usually consumed, a lot depends:

  • from the congestion of the car;
  • speed limit;
  • the period of operation (in winter, more fuel is consumed to warm up the fuel).

The engine of the UMZ 42164-80 modification is equipped with hydraulic compensators; this engine is used in the Sobol Business and Gazelle Business commercial cars. The 42164-80 model differs little from the standard 4216 motor - this engine is equipped with other, special stays, in the upper part of which the compensators themselves are attached.Image - DIY umz 4213 engine repair

Crankshaft 4216 consists of four connecting rod and five main connecting rod journals, has diameters:

  • root necks - 64 mm;
  • connecting rod journals - 58 mm.

All journals are equipped with two steel-babbit liners, the factory tolerance for the crankshaft dimensions is 0.013 mm.During the repair of the Ulyanovsk engine, the main and connecting rod journals are measured with a micrometer - if they are worn more than 0.05 mm, the shaft is subject to mandatory grinding. The diameter of the piston pins is 25 mm, the pins are installed in the bronze bushings of the connecting rods. Over time, both the fingers themselves and the bushings can wear out; in the event of backlash in the connection, the parts must be replaced.

The crankshaft in the cylinder block is mounted on supports with covers, which are tightened with bolts with a certain effort. Each cover has its own place - they should not be confused in places, moreover, picked up from another BC. Also, the covers must be locked to the lock - if they are installed incorrectly, the crankshaft may not turn (it will be clamped), and even if the shaft turns, the engine will quickly fail.

The resource of the 4216 engine, declared by the manufacturer, is 250 thousand km, but often the engines fail ahead of schedule. Frequent ICE problems:

  • leaking engine oil;
  • increased oil burnout through the piston rings:
  • knock of valves, which is sometimes difficult to eliminate;
  • overheat;
  • failure of various sensors.

Various breakdowns can occur prematurely for various reasons:

  • the driver violates the operating conditions - the motor overheats due to overload;
  • maintenance standards are not followed;
  • the car is operated in difficult road conditions.

Unfortunately, defects are often found in UMP engines, but ZMZ motors are not insured against this either. If the 4216 engine troit (jerks), the cause of the malfunction may be both the engine itself and a breakdown in the ECM. To determine the cause of the defect, it is necessary to diagnose the internal combustion engine.Image - DIY umz 4213 engine repair

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There are the most controversial reviews about the UMZ 4216 engine - some owners of Gazelles praise UAZ engines and believe that they:

Indeed, the UMZ 4216 engine is very simple, especially since it has significant similarities with the ZMZ-402 internal combustion engine. The design of the power unit is familiar to many drivers, and such an engine can be repaired almost in the field. Some difficulty for car owners is the electronic equipment of the motor - after all, the injector is somewhat more complicated than the carburetor device.

You can also hear extremely negative responses from the owners of Gazelles with UAZ engines:

  • the engine is prone to overheating;
  • sensors often fail, so the motor starts to triple and does not go;
  • the engine consumes oil, it flows wherever possible.

Unfortunately, a lot of rejects come from the Ulyanovsk plant, and basically those drivers who get a defective internal combustion engine complain about the Ulyanovsk motor. There are several typical factory "blunders" that are quite common on the UMP 4216:

  • the intake manifold cracks and begins to suck in air;
  • the pump does not provide the required oil pressure;
  • the electromagnetic cooling clutch refuses to work, and the motor begins to overheat.

Drivers of such unsuccessful "Gazelles" note that the engine often has to be "refined with a file." It was also noticed that if the motor is completely sorted out with our own hands, breakdowns in it occur much less often, the main thing is to assemble the engine using original parts of good quality.

During the operation of the Gazelle with the UMZ 4216 engine, various breakdowns occur, one of the most common problems is engine overheating. If the cooling system "airs", antifreeze (antifreeze) starts to be thrown out of the expansion tank. As a result of overheating, it often breaks through the block head gasket - it is generally easy to change the PHBTs, and often drivers make such repairs on their own.

But the problem in case of overheating is different - often from the high temperature on the pistons partitions burst, the piston rings "lie". To replace the pistons or rings, it is not necessary to remove the engine, it is enough just to throw off the block head and the oil pan.

UMP 4216 overhaul is necessary in cases when:

  • worn or damaged cylinder liners;
  • the crankshaft knocks (wears out);
  • low oil pressure in the system, and replacing the oil pump does not give positive results.

Often the Ulyanovsk engine is overheated, and drivers take various measures to get rid of this unpleasant and dangerous phenomenon for the internal combustion engine. Many Gazelle owners install a three-row copper radiator instead of the standard aluminum one - copper cools antifreeze more efficiently. Another method to combat overheating is to install an electric cooling fan with a toggle switch located in the driver's cab. At the moment when the sensor arrow on the instrument panel begins to show the critical temperature of the coolant, the driver forcibly turns on the fan, and the temperature regime returns to normal.

In the case of purchasing a Gazelle with an unsuccessful engine, car owners seek to get rid of the power unit, replacing it with an internal combustion engine of another model. Many different options can be considered for replacement, but most often the owners of commercial cars install ZMZ-405 engines, this particular engine is chosen for a number of reasons:

  • The Zavolzhsky engine is not capricious - it “digests” Russian fuel well, it rarely breaks down;
  • relatively imported power units (Cummins, Toyota, Nissan) ZMZ-405 is inexpensive;
  • when installing ZMZ, a minimum of alterations are required.

Recently, the Cummins turbodiesel has been regularly installed on Gazelle Business cars, but owners of cars with UMP-4216 almost never consider this engine as a replacement:

  • Cummins isn't cheap;
  • The American engine is very sensitive to the quality of fuel, and if the car is filled with bad diesel fuel, Cummins can quickly fail.Image - DIY umz 4213 engine repair

The advantage of the ZMZ-405 (or 406) also lies in the fact that a lot of used engines are sold in the secondary market in normal, working condition, and their price is several times lower than a new internal combustion engine. True, when buying a used unit, there are no serious guarantees - you have to take the seller's word for it. But even if the 405 requires minor repairs (replacement of chains or piston rings), it is still much cheaper to purchase it together with the repair than to purchase an expensive imported engine. Another minus of the imported internal combustion engine is that if it was not serially installed on the Gazelle, it will have to be purchased together with the gearbox or be puzzled by the fit of the Gazel gearbox to the new engine.