DIY VAZ 2105 engine repair

Overhaul of the engine, or the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing.

Background.
It all started, as you know, with the purchase of a "new" car in 2009. Car VAZ 21053 1997 color "safari" code 215 (for those who do not know - light beige). After the purchase, I skated no more than a couple of thousand kilometers and soon the move refused to pull normally. I checked the candles - relatively clean, adjusted the valves - it did not help. Having procured a homemade compression meter, and measured the compression, I was unpleasantly surprised.

The compression was as follows:
1 — 8;
2 — 8;
3 — 4,5;
4 — 8.
Here it is a no brainer that only an autopsy will save the patient. Like many brothers in misfortune, he began by calling the services, and, having learned the cost of the repair (15-17 thousand rubles only for work), he unanimously decided to make repairs with the forces of his limbs and gray matter.

And so, the age-old question, to which I did not find a detailed answer on the forums: "Capital of the engine, what and how to do?".

I'll start, perhaps, with a list of special tools that you may need for this ritual:
• set of heads;
• a mandrel for piston rings (about 260 rubles, but you can collect it yourself from a sheet of tin);
• mandrel for valve stem seals (20 rubles);
• valve desiccant (80-100 rubles);
• torque wrench (it is necessary to take such that the size of the square is the same as on the heads) (1300r);
• micrometer (500-600 rubles);
• mandrel of the clutch disc (50 rubles);

• a device for adjusting valves with a hour indicator (500-800 rubles);
• two- or three-legged stripper (400-500 rubles).

For spare parts:
• pistons;
• piston rings;
• main and connecting rod inserts;
• crankcase gasket;
• block laying;

Literature:
• Repair manual for your car;
• spare parts catalog (of course, rare in our days, but you can find it on the internet)

The engine capital has been completed. Now you need to drive the first 2500 km carefully without sudden accelerations, without overloading the engine. After driving 2500 km, change the engine oil. Look under the hood frequently to check the unit.

Advice for those who will disassemble the cylinder head.
As you know, a regular drying agent is not a very convenient thing and easily flies out of the engagement on a hairpin. I advise you to tighten two nuts on the hairpin and clamp the grip of the device between them, then the chance of getting the device on the forehead will be minimal.

VAZ 2105 is a well-known modification of the classic Zhiguli car. Produced from 1979 to 2010. In the VAZ 2105 engine, the gas distribution mechanism is driven by a belt, which has a positive effect on the reliability of the motor. Considering that there are still many cars with such an engine running around the CIS, many owners are interested in tuning the VAZ 2105 engine and the feasibility of its implementation.

In Russia, craftsmen are known who squeezed 200 liters from a VAZ 2105 engine on gasoline. With. and raised performance to record levels. But why not everyone decides on such tuning? Practice shows that such improvements do not make any sense, since spending a lot of money at the expense of your own safety is simply stupid. The most reasonable modernization of the VAZ 2105 engine should be reduced to a slight increase in power and a maximum increase in reliability. You can, for example, slightly increase the volume of the engine by squandering it under 82-mm pistons from the Niva. You can slightly increase the engine power by installing a different camshaft and bore the cylinder head. However, one must understand that the design of the VAZ 21053 is archaic, and there is little point in its radical modernization.

More serious modifications can lead to a sharp decrease in the service life of the machine. The brakes can still be improved, but the car's transmission is clearly not designed for high power. Therefore, remaining as a result of modernization with a pile of twisted iron, one should not wonder why such a result was obtained. Correctly making an overhaul of the engine, replacing parts in it with more reliable ones, you can achieve a much greater effect than a banal increase in speed by 10-20 km / h.

It is much more difficult to increase power in a VAZ 2105 with a belt motor than, for example, in a VAZ 21053. For example, when using a "humped" camshaft, it will be necessary to install a split drive gear. And it simply does not exist for the "five" engine with a belt, it will not be possible to set a mark. It is better then to replace the motor completely, for example, to supply a 2105 diesel engine or to purchase a conversion kit for an injector. Still, of all VAZ fuels, diesel is the cheapest. And the injector, although it is gasoline, will also reduce fuel consumption, because its device is such that the jets are controlled by electronics.

Deep tuning of the VAZ engine should be carried out only for some creative motivation. Light modifications of the VAZ 2105 with your own hands can be done without spending a lot of money. For example, if the VAZ 2105 engine is warming up, it is quite possible to modify the power system. And, in addition, to reduce fuel consumption at the VAZ.

Before starting work, you should carefully read the recommendations, draw up an approximate tuning budget and an estimate for parts, familiarize yourself with what markings are on the parts and tags. It often turns out that the deferred funds are not enough. Why this happens - everyone probably guesses. When disassembling the car, it turns out that it is required not only to modify the engine, but also, for example, to overhaul the load-bearing body parts. Also, before work, you will need a diagram or a repair book. Despite the fact that the marking for different Zhiguli units is different, the literature can be used from different modifications.

In order for the VAZ 21053 to drive perfectly, you just need to monitor the air filter and clean the carburetor from time to time. However, the factory design can be slightly modified. Surely, when doing engine repairs, many noticed that pistons 2 and 3 of cylinders are black, and 1 and 4 are light. This indicates that some cylinders receive a rich mixture, while others - a poor one. This problem is solved by installing two carburetors, the jets of which will distribute the mixture in equal proportions.

It is best to use the Weber modifications, in this case, for each VAZ 2105 carburetor, adjusting the fuel consumption is not so difficult. And the reliability of "Weber" is better. To install it, you will need a set of locksmith tools, tees, hoses and manifolds from Oka, the marking of which is in the catalog. It is worth remembering that it can be very difficult to achieve synchronous operation of the carburetors. And why it happens is hard to say. Most likely, each VAZ 2105 carburetor is unique, and therefore the fuel consumption adjustment is not ideal. So having two carburetors is a pretty big risk. Although if everything can be configured synchronously, then the VAZ ICE will start working very smoothly. And the fuel consumption for the VAZ, although it will grow, but no more than 1 liter.

After installing two carburetors, air filters will also have to be made. They are usually made from improvised means. You can also install a zero resistance filter. If the FTS is installed on the VAZ 2105 carburetor, additional fuel consumption adjustment is required. True, here it is worth remembering that such a filtration device must be constantly maintained, otherwise the engine resource will significantly decrease due to the ingress of abrasive particles. If you forget about the VAZ 2105 carburetor, then adjusting the fuel consumption can lead to the mixture in the engine becoming lean.By the way, if it is not clear why the VAZ 2105 engine is heating up, then it is quite possible that because of the too lean mixture.

Considering the problematic VAZ 2105 carburetor, the fuel consumption adjustment of which takes a lot of time, it makes sense to switch to the injector. To do this, it is better to buy all spare parts at the official VAZ center. There is a special scheme for installation, all the work can be done in a couple of days in the garage. After that, you can forever forget about the VAZ 2105 carburetor, the fuel consumption adjustment of which was so exhausting. However, the injector may also require an initial setup.

So, the carburetor is installed, but the fuel consumption of the VAZ is still high, and the traction has weakened by the order. Then a radical modernization is needed. An overhaul of the engine will help restore the technical performance of the machine, and if you use good parts, then improve them. As already noted, it is possible to squander the engine somewhat, but it is better not to do this on the "five", where the cylinder head is driven by a belt. It is better to just put a high-quality piston, replace all gaskets with expensive and branded ones, install new bearings, modify the cylinder head. It is worth doing a major overhaul if an injector is installed on a 2105, the circuit of which is designed for a motor with normal compression.

For a complete repair, you will have to figure out how to remove the engine. To do this, you need a diagram explaining where which fasteners need to be unscrewed. Usually, the mounts have their own markings. The dismantled installation is easier to repair yourself. In addition, the engine can be sent to some auto repair plant, where not only all parts will be replaced, but also the fuel consumption adjustment is performed on the VAZ 2105 carburetor using a special stand.

If the motor moves on its own, you need to pay close attention to the marks. They are designed not only for standard operations such as adjusting valves, but also for the correct installation of individual parts. Again, you need an assembly and disassembly diagram, or a detailed video. Despite the simple device, the VAZ engine must be assembled with perfect accuracy. Of course, the motor needs to be repaired on a clean workbench so that particles do not get inside, which can accelerate wear.

It is worth remembering that sometimes the markings are applied to the parts incorrectly, therefore, even if the marks are matched, unstable engine operation is observed. In this case, you will have to change the part or contact specialists with good diagnostic equipment. You can also consult with the experienced owners of the VAZ 2105, they probably know well the device and features of the engine, so they will be able to determine if the tags or jets are to blame.

After the tuning is completed, the engine is assembled and all the marks are set in the correct position, you can install it on the car and then proceed with the final adjustments.

If, after installing the unit on the car, it was not possible to start it, then it is necessary to tighten the VAZ 2105 carburetor, the fuel consumption adjustment of which does not give a normal mixture for a flash in the cylinder. It is also worth looking at the candles and making sure there is a spark. Sometimes, it is not clear why, immediately after installation, the jets get clogged. Everything is simple with them - it is enough to blow them out. Also, the jets can be cleaned with a special carburetor compound.

The second reason why the launch does not occur is that the camshaft marks are incorrectly set, the marking of which must correspond to the risks on the body. If the diagram shows that everything is set correctly, it could be a matter of fuel quality. You can try to start the car from the tug.

After starting the engine, it should be allowed to idle for some time. Why this is so necessary is explained simply: the details have not yet become accustomed to each other. Even cast iron cylinders marked with the highest hardness can fail due to improper running-in.If the VAZ 2105 engine is warming up, the fuel consumption for the VAZ should be increased.

After running-in, the fuel consumption of the VAZ must correspond to the passport data.

If there is a corburetor then Sergey Svetlov

Thanks for the video, P. S. you can link to Pokhomov's video exactly where you are watching

Good evening. Sergey, I have the same engine. mileage 135,000, at idle it shakes every time it feels like gaps. changed the gasket, since the gases went out, valve ground, distribution. the shaft has a little backlash, but bearable. collected, launched, shocks remained. there are no errors in computer diagnostics. rinsed the nozzles. during overclocking, too, a failure at the beginning, and then everything is fine. can tell me something. Thank you

Good evening. Sergey, I have the same engine. mileage 135,000, at idle it shakes every time it feels like gaps. changed the gasket, since the gases went out, valve ground, distribution. the shaft has a little backlash, but bearable. collected, launched, shocks remained. there are no errors in computer diagnostics. rinsed the nozzles. during overclocking, too, a failure at the beginning, and then everything is fine. can tell me something. Thank you

Thank you very much, a window to the truth, Thank God there are such people, the officers are hi: let them smoke on the sidelines, if we all do our cars like this, Europe and America will wash and beg for loans

yes the sealant abrd is good I myself use it never nothing has leaked

normal guy positive energy. no nigga

Hi What pressure should the fuel pump be? I connected the pump to the pressure gauge, applied voltage and 3, 8 BAR Is this good or a lot?

about oils. lukoil, which strangely I saw on sale in turkey, and in thailand, although thailand produces oils brands in the auto industry in japan. there was an opportunity to check the characteristics of lukoil and tnc oils in the laboratory, which is interesting in terms of the quality of the temperature runoff in tnc better. At one time, I poured aviation ms 20 for a penny, because there was nothing besides 8ki. I think all oils are not bad, as long as they are not fake. good luck.

What could be the reason for the oiling of the spark plug electrode in all 4 cylinders, the VAZ 21053 injector, it does not seem to eat oil, the exhaust is dry, washed the throttle so there is also an oil deposit in the receiver, maybe the breather is clogged, or what else happens to it? how much does it cost to replace the valve seals? And if it's about rings, how much money and time do you need?

this liquid is probably Nefras, we used it at the plant for washing and degreasing

Sergey Hello Tell me on this issue, I have a classic. When I did the overhaul of the motor, I did not measure the thermal gap on the rings, but set it simply as it is, is it very scary or not? Polish rings. Thank you

Mercedes e 220 is takoyzhezh finished that there are no spare parts on disassembly, well, nifigi and books otoy

Hello Sergey, a volkswagen Passat b3 car, there is a Solex carburetor 21083, constantly different idling rpm, rpm does not float, after load, I transfer to neutral, rpm 500, it almost stalls, you gasp, 800 you gasp 900 again 700 a then 1000, I can't understand why, maybe the damper is jamming, there is no air leak ..

Sdrastvuyte sergey, please tell me how much you beat for the work of a motor repair cap, and how much they charge for a hundred

Hello, Sergei, with the coming holidays, you pulled your head, and then 3 bolts were changed, when those 3 bolts were changed, the rest were unscrewed? I just want to find out if it can be such that I completely pulled the head, unscrewed three bolts, the head can go in a wave after all?

Well, I think that a service station or not a service station, and the car should be serviced on time, regardless of the place of birth of the car. Otherwise, you can grab a problem somewhere in the wrong place and at the wrong time. As for the video, I liked it very much. Thank you. I am one of those who do it with their own hands and there is never enough useful advice. I learned a lot for myself, thanks. I drive VW PASSAT B3. By the way, I advise you this car. German Zhiguli Wait, repair, spare parts are cheaper than VAZ ones.The truth is a bit old already. But with good hands, not a kill AUTO. Thanks, good luck.

Stop the car on a lift or use an observation ditch or pit. Place shoes under the front wheels and hang the rear axle on one or both sides.

For convenience, remove the hood, disconnect the wires from the battery and from the electrical components installed on the car engine. Remove the battery and the engine compartment lamp.

Drain the radiator. Drain the fluid from the cylinder block and the heater, for which unscrew the plugs on the left side of the cylinder block and in the lower part of the radiator, move the upper heater control lever to the right (it opens the heater tap) and remove the plugs from the expansion tank and radiator.

WARNING

In order not to damage the radiator, while unscrewing the drain plug, use the second key to hold the plug fitting soldered into the radiator. Unscrew the plug with a socket or spanner wrench so as not to rip off the edges of the plug.

Remove the fan shroud. Disconnect the coolant inlet and outlet hoses from the engine and remove the radiator together with the thermostat and hoses.

Remove the air filter by first disconnecting the hoses from it, removing the cover and the filter element. Close the carburetor with the process plug.

Remove the nuts securing the front pipe of the mufflers and the exhaust manifold.

Remove the gearbox, proceeding as described in the article "Gearbox".

Disconnect the carburetor throttle rod from the engine and the choke control cable.

Disconnect the fuel supply hose and hoses to the heater from the engine.

Hang the traverse ТСО-3/379 on the hoist and tie the engine on the right side by the bracket installed on the front stud of the exhaust manifold fastening, and on the left side - by the hole for fastening the clutch cover.

Tension the hoist chain slightly, unscrew the nuts securing the cushions 9 of the front engine mount to the cross member of the front mount and lift the engine out of the compartment.

Remove the starter heat shield, starter and hot air intake together with the supply hose. Remove the two front engine mount side brackets with cushions from the cylinder block.

Unscrew the clutch mounting bolts and remove it.

Install the engine on the car in the reverse order to removal. Pay particular attention to the connection between the engine and the gearbox: the input shaft must fit exactly into the splines of the clutch disc.

Clean and wash the engine in a washer, place it on a disassembly stand and drain the oil from the crankcase.

Remove the carburetor by disconnecting the hoses and throttle linkage from it.

Remove the fuel pump, ignition distributor, use a key 67.7812.9514 to unscrew the spark plugs and the coolant temperature gauge sensor.

Remove the alternator and coolant pump drive belt, remove the alternator and alternator bracket.

Remove the coolant pump by disconnecting the heater fluid supply line from it and the exhaust manifold.

Remove the coolant outlet pipe from the cylinder head and the coolant return pipe to the heater.

Using the A.6O312 tool, unscrew and remove the oil filter with a gasket.

Unscrew the oil pressure control lamp sensor, remove the crankcase breather cap, crankcase and oil pump. Remove the oil separator drain tube retainer and remove the crankcase ventilation oil separator.

Remove the crankshaft pulley, securing the flywheel with a lock A .60330 / R (see Fig.) And unscrewing the nut with an A.50121 wrench.

Remove the protective covers 1, 10 and 11 (fig.) Of the camshaft belt drive. Loosen the camshaft pulleys and oil pump drive shaft bolts. Remove the spring 3 of the tension roller bracket. Remove the bolts and remove the tension roller bracket. Remove the camshaft drive belt.

Remove the toothed belt pulley 9 from the crankshaft.Remove the bolts and remove the camshaft pulleys and oil pump drive shaft.

Remove the camshaft drive cover 5. Remove the thrust flange 7 of the oil pump drive shaft and remove the shaft 6 from the cylinder block.

Remove the cover 1 (Fig.) Of the cylinder head. Loosen the nuts securing the camshaft oil seal holder 6 and remove the camshaft bearing housing. Unscrew the nuts and remove the oil seal holder and the camshaft thrust flange 4.

Remove the cylinder head bolts and remove it together with the exhaust manifold and intake manifold.

Unscrew the connecting rod bolt nuts, remove the connecting rod caps and carefully remove the pistons with connecting rods through the cylinders.

Note. When removing the pistons, mark the piston, connecting rod and its cover so that they can be installed in their original place during assembly.

Install the retainer 5, unscrew the bolts 3, remove the washer 4 and the flywheel from the crankshaft. Remove the front cover 6 of the clutch housing

With a pusher A. 40006, remove the bearing of the input shaft of the gearbox from the seat in the crankshaft.

Remove the crankshaft rear oil seal holder.

Loosen the bolts of the main bearing caps, remove them together with the lower shells, remove the crankshaft, upper shells and thrust half rings on the rear support.

Install the washed and cleaned cylinder block on the stand and tighten the missing studs.

Place the bush without the groove on the inner surface in the seat of the middle bearing, and in the rest of the seats. liners with a groove. Place the bearing shells without a groove in the bearing caps.

Lubricate the cylinders of the VAZ 2105 engine, as well as pistons and oil seals, bearing shells and thrust half rings of the crankshaft before installation, lubricate with engine oil.

Place the bushings without a groove on the inner surface in the middle bearing seat and in its cover, and in the rest of the seats and corresponding covers, with grooved bushings *.

Installation of thrust half rings on the rear support

Labels on the main bearing caps (the bearings are counted from the front of the engine) and the conditional cylinder block number

Put the crankshaft in the main bearings and insert two thrust half rings, matched in thickness according to the instructions in the chapter "Crankshaft and flywheel VAZ 2107", into the seats of the rear support. Install the main bearing caps according to the marks.

Install the main bearing caps in the old block. For this, the cylinder block and the covers belonging to it are marked with the same conditional number. Install the thrust half rings with grooves to the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft, and place a steel-aluminum half ring on the front side of the rear support, and a cermet (yellow) one on the back.

• Crankshaft rear oil seal holder.
• Arrows indicate projections for centering the holder relative to the crankshaft flange

On the crankshaft flange, the gasket of the oil seal holder, and in the holder nests put the bolts securing the front cover of the clutch housing. Put the holder with the oil seal on the mandrel 41.7853.4011 and, moving it from the mandrel onto the crankshaft flange, attach it to the cylinder block.

• Removing the flywheel
• 1 key
• 2 - flywheel
• 3 - flywheel mounting bolt
• 4 - washer
• 5 - clamp A.60330 / R to keep the flywheel from turning
• 6 - the front cover of the clutch housing

Fit the front cover 6 of the clutch housing along the two centering sleeves.

Install the flywheel on the crankshaft so that the mark (tapered hole) near the rim is opposite the axis of the connecting rod journal of the fourth cylinder, block the flywheel with a lock A.60330 / R and bolt it to the crankshaft flange.

• Installation of a piston with piston rings into a cylinder using a mounting sleeve from the set A.60604. Arrows indicate bushings for centering the head on the cylinder block

Using the sleeve from the set A.60604, insert the pistons with connecting rods of the classic fret into the cylinders. The set contains bushings of nominal and overhaul sizes of pistons.

The pin hole on the piston is offset by 2 mm, so when installing the pistons in the cylinders, the “P” mark on the pistons must face the front of the engine.

Therefore, a bushing should be selected that is suitable for the size of the piston to be installed. Adjustable bushing 67.7854.9517 can also be used.

Insert the bushings into the connecting rods and the connecting rod caps. Connect the connecting rods to the crankshaft journals, fit the caps and tighten the connecting rod bolts.

Install the sprocket on the crankshaft. Install the VAZ 2104 oil pump drive shaft and secure with a thrust flange.

• Tightening the cylinder head bolts

Install the cylinder head with gasket, exhaust manifold and intake manifold over the two centering sleeves on the block. Tighten the fastening bolts in a certain sequence in two steps:

• - preliminary torque 33.3–41.16 N · m (3.4–4.2 kgf · m) bolts 1–10;
• - finally with a torque of 95.94–118.38 Nm (9.79–12.08 kgf · m) bolts 1–10 and a moment of 30.67–39.1 Nm (3.13–3.99 kgf M) bolt 11

• Checking the alignment of the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the mark on the cylinder block

Turn the flywheel so that the mark on the crankshaft sprocket of the VAZ 2105 coincides with the mark on the cylinder block.

• The order of tightening the nuts of the camshaft bearing housing

• Checking the coincidence of the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket with the mark on the bearing housing: 1 — mark on the sprocket; 2 - mark on the bearing housing

Install the sprocket on the camshaft, assembled with the bearing housing, and rotate the shaft so that the mark on the sprocket is against the mark on the bearing housing. Remove the sprocket and, without changing the position of the shaft, install the bearing housing on the cylinder head of the VAZ 2107 and secure by tightening the nuts in a specific sequence.

• - Install a chain damper on the cylinder head.
• - Install the camshaft drive chain in the following order:
• - put the chain on the camshaft sprocket and insert it into the drive cavity, setting the sprocket so that the mark on it coincides with the mark on the bearing housing. Do not tighten the sprocket bolt until it stops;
• - install the sprocket on the oil pump drive shaft, also without finally tightening the mounting bolt;
• - install the chain tensioner shoe and the tensioner without tightening the cap nut so that the tensioner spring can press the shoe; screw the chain stop pin into the cylinder block;
• - turn the crankshaft two turns in the direction of rotation, which will provide the required chain tension; check the coincidence of the marks on the sprockets with the marks on the cylinder block and on the bearing housing;
• - if the marks match, then after blocking the flywheel with the lock A.60330 / R, finally tighten the sprocket bolts, the chain tensioner cap nut and bend the sprocket bolt lock washers; if the marks do not match, then repeat the chain installation operations.

Adjust the clearance between the camshaft cams and the valve levers

• Camshaft drive cover.
• The arrows show the projections for centering the cover relative to the crankshaft pulley hub

Pour oil into the neck on the cylinder head cover of the VAZ 2104.

Years of issue - (1979 - 2006)
Cylinder block material - cast iron
Power system - carburetor / injector
Type - in-line
Number of cylinders - 4
Valves per cylinder - 2
Piston stroke - 66 mm
Cylinder diameter - 79 mm
Compression ratio - 8.8
The volume of the motor is 1294 cm3.
The engine power of the VAZ 2105 is 64 hp. / 5600 rpm
Torque - 94 Nm / 3400 rpm
Fuel - AI93
Fuel consumption - city 11l. | track 8 liters. | mixed 9.5 l / 100 km
Oil consumption - 700 g per 1000 km
Engine weight 2105 - 104kg.
Oil in the VAZ 2105 engine:
5W-30
5W-40
10W-40
15W-40
How much oil is in the engine 2105: 3.75 liters.
When replacing, fill in about 3.5 liters.

Resource 2105:
1.According to the plant - 125 thousand km
2. In practice - 200 thousand km

Tuning
Potential - 200 HP
Without loss of resource - 80 hp.

How to increase the engine power in 2105 .. yes, just like on 21011, the bore for the piston is 82mm, otherwise all movements are described in the article "Tuning the engine 2101", the motors repeat each other 1 in 1, the revision of the VAZ 2105 engine is the same.

"Five" engine - this expression is still in use among the owners of the old VAZ classics. Some consider this motor quite progressive for its time. Others are harshly critical of him. Where is the truth? As always, she is somewhere in between.

It will not hurt to remind readers of some information about the engine that was installed on the VAZ 2105 - "a box for tomatoes", as it was called for its rectangular shape.

Two sedans: VAZ 2105, -07 and station wagon -04 represented a new line of VAZ classics, which replaced the “kopeck” generation (2101, -02, -03, -06). The firstborn of this family, the 5th model was equipped with three power units:

The 2105 engine was conceived as a base engine. The weakest was not particularly popular. The other two units have their supporters and opponents. Some technical characteristics of the "five" engine:

• The cylinder block is cast iron, non-liner.
• The arrangement of 4 cylinders is in-line.
• Boring diameter - 79 mm.
• Piston movement - 66 mm.
• Power * - 64 hp With. (note - at the beginning of the issue, the number 68 was indicated). Since there were no constructive alterations, obviously, this was caused by a change in the determination method.
• The torque is 9.5 kgm at 3400 rpm.
• Volumetric compression - 8.8.
• Gasoline consumption AI-92: city - 10.2; track - 6.2; mixed cycle - 7.9.

The 2105 engine was based on the 1.3 liter 21011 engine. The new engine unit has embodied promising design solutions. One can argue - how successful it turned out. Nevertheless, the Togliatti car builders cannot be denied technical courage.

The VAZ 2105 engine with a belt began to run quieter. This is due to two points. The use of a timing belt in the timing belt instead of a metal chain, which is not very quiet, especially when pulled out. At the same time, the tension of the belt drive became automatic, and in terms of reliability it turned out to be even better than that of the Ford Pinto, chosen as a prototype. And the extra lubrication point has disappeared, which has reduced the loss of engine oil.

The disadvantage of the "classic" VAZ engines was the chatter of the valve drive - there were no hydraulic compensators at that time. The use of a cast aluminum cover on the "fifth" engine, covering the gas distribution mechanism, significantly reduced the noise level.

The new engine of the VAZ 2105 car literally rustled, unlike its chain brother. The belt drive arrangement did not require removing the drive pulley from the crankshaft, as was the case on the Ford Pinto. For safety reasons in the event of a belt break, the pistons are equipped with end counterbores, which exclude "meeting" the valves.

Another advantage was the modular valve drive design. On the American prototype, the latter were located in the cylinder head (cylinder head). VAZ employees used a separate valve box with a camshaft bed, which greatly facilitated engine repair and timing maintenance.

The Ozone carburetor, which received a forced idle solenoid valve (EPHK), contributed to an increase in environmental performance and fuel efficiency.

The only drawback of the new engine was the short toothed belt life. It was recommended to change it after 60 thousand km. In fact, the belts "died" even earlier than this date. In this case, no catastrophe occurred, apart from the fact that the car got up where the break occurred. Experienced drivers carried a spare copy in the trunk, since replacing the VAZ 2105 timing belt was not too difficult.

Another reason why engines were considered problematic was the shortage of parts that were common at the time.VAZ 2105 pistons were interchangeable with 21011 parts that do not have counterbores. Sometimes unscrupulous mechanics, either deliberately or for lack of staff, installed the wrong components.

Naturally, when the belt broke, the valve plates and piston heads entered a hard clinch, and the driver was forced to overhaul the engine.

A common drawback of all "classic" engines was the need for periodic valve adjustment, and in the first thousand of the run, also tightening the cylinder head bolts. In addition, attachments (water pump, starter, generator, distributor) were distinguished by a small resource. The latter, however, was absent in recent years, due to the use of injection injection.

One of Murphy's laws says: if there is a detail in the device that can be put on the contrary, there will always be a person who will do it. This part turned out to be a plastic spacer for the fuel pump drive. Signs of its incorrect installation: the engine stalls during acceleration, in heat, when driving with a side roll.

The mounting holes on the spacer flange are asymmetrically positioned, and the difference is almost imperceptible to the eye. This "joint" was present on all "classic" engines, and migrated, possibly, even from the FIAT 124. It happened that the spacer was installed upside down at the factory. At the same time, the engine worked, however, the stroke of the fuel pump pusher decreased, which led to a decrease in its performance.

After a certain mileage, the level of gasoline in the float chamber barely covered the fuel supply jet, and the engine began to stall. Since the cause is quite unexpected, it can sometimes be difficult to determine it.

Young owners of VAZ "classics" sometimes make tuning of their devices. Of course, a new body kit, direct-flow exhaust or deafening music is not always enough. Therefore, they also resort to modernizing the power unit.

The easiest way to make the 2105 engine tuning is to install the next generation Solex DAAZ 21053 carburetor. The increase, of course, will be insignificant.

Higher power gain is provided by cylinder bore and increased piston stroke. Possible options:

• Boring 82 mm cylinder bores increases the volume to 1400 cm³.
• Using the same pistons, but a longer elbow (2103 shaft with 80mm crank) and 7mm shortened connecting rods gives 1600 cubes.
• When both options are combined, the working volume becomes equal to 1700 cm³. Such tuning of the VAZ 2105 engine allows you to achieve a power of 100 liters. With.

A more radical way to improve technical characteristics is to replace the standard motor with a rotary power unit (VAZ 413 Wankel engine), produced at VAZ in small batches. Despite its small size, the tuning drive produces 140 "horses". Of course, getting it is very problematic.

The engine with the VAZ 2105 index was underestimated because it was ahead of its time. It became the first domestic engine with a toothed belt instead of a traditional chain. Time has shown the viability of this solution. On modern cars (especially small and middle class) belts are found more often than chains. To a large extent, this was facilitated by the increase in the resource of these products.