Do-it-yourself vaz 21214 engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 21214 engine injector from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Today you will see in the video how you can make a major overhaul of the VAZ 21214 Niva Taiga 1.7 (injector) engine with your own hands. A car with a range of 60 thousand km. Engine 1.7, is power steering. The problem due to which a major overhaul is being carried out, the engine began to tweak. They checked the compression, in one of the cylinders it showed 5. We connected the scanner and saw the errors: P0300 (random / multiple misfires were detected, P0301 misfires were detected in the 1st cylinder. It was in this cylinder that the compression showed a value of 5. At the same time, the check engine light not lit. We measured the output in the first cylinder 15 hectare, in the 4th cylinder 11 hectare.

Video overhaul of the VAZ 21214 Niva Taiga 1.7 engine:

The service life of this engine is in the region of 150 thousand km. run, he passed 65 thousand km. It is impossible to say exactly why the premature repairs were required. If you decide to do everything on your own, this guide will be very useful to you. The whole process is shown from start to finish, with detailed comments.

Before disassembling, clean the engine from dirt.

Using the "17" head, unscrew the three bolts attaching the front axle gearbox bracket to the cylinder block.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the four nuts securing the left support bracket of the power unit to the cylinder block.

... and remove the bracket assembly with the pillow.

After removing the brackets on their mounting pins and threaded holes in the cylinder block, we mount the dismantling stand plate and fix the engine on the stand. Remove the clutch (see here)

Video (click to play).

Remove the flywheel and clutch housing cover (see here).

Using the "13" head, unscrew the four nuts securing the bracket for the right support of the power unit to the cylinder block.

... and remove the bracket with the pillow.

Using the "17" head, unscrew the three bolts attaching the generator bracket to the cylinder block.

Using round-nose pliers, we loosen the clamp of attachment to the outlet pipe of the heater radiator of the coolant outlet hose from the throttle assembly (VAZ-21214 engine) or from the carburetor heating unit (VAZ-21213).

We remove the hose from the branch pipe of the outlet tube.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the flange of the heater radiator outlet pipe to the coolant pump housing.

After unscrewing the nut that secures the tube bracket to the exhaust manifold (see here).

... remove the heater radiator outlet pipe and its sealing gasket.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the three bolts securing the coolant pump to the cylinder block.

... and remove the coolant pump assembly and its gasket.

On an injection engine, dismantle the cylinder head assembly with a receiver, an intake pipe and an exhaust manifold (see here).

On a carburetor engine, remove the cylinder head assembly with the carburetor, intake pipe and exhaust manifold (see here).

Remove the oil separator of the crankcase ventilation system, the oil pan and the oil pump (see the relevant sections).

Using the "10" head, unscrew the six bolts securing the rear crankshaft oil seal holder to the cylinder block.

We pry the rear oil seal holder with a screwdriver for the tides.

... and remove the holder assembly with an oil seal.

From the grooves of the oil seal holder, remove two special bolts (with square heads) securing the clutch housing cover.

Remove the rear oil seal holder gasket.

Remove the camshaft drive cover, dismantle the chain, crankshaft sprocket, oil pump drive shaft, chain tensioner shoe (see the relevant sections).
Using a 10 spanner spanner, unscrew the bolt securing the bracket for the drain pipe of the oil separator of the crankcase ventilation system.

Using the "14" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the connecting rod cover (the piston should be in the BDC).

Knocking on the side surfaces of the lid with a hammer with a plastic striker.

We take out the lower shell of the connecting rod bearing from the cover.

Leaning on the ends of the rods of the connecting rod bolts, we move the lower head of the connecting rod from the connecting rod journal of the crankshaft.

Resting the wooden handle of the hammer on the connector of the lower connecting rod head, push the piston into the cylinder.

... and remove the piston with the connecting rod from the cylinder.

We take out the upper bearing shell from the connecting rod head.

In the same way, we remove the pistons with connecting rods from other cylinders.

We clamp the connecting rod in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.

With your fingers, gently (without applying great effort) unclench the lock of the upper compression ring.

... and remove the upper compression ring.

... lower compression ring.

... two discs of an oil ring.

Remove the oil scraper ring expander.

For removing the piston from the connecting rod.

... pry the piston pin retaining ring with a screwdriver.

... and remove it from the annular groove of the piston.

In the same way, we take out the second retaining ring of the finger.

... we remove it from the hole in the piston.

Remove the piston from the upper connecting rod head.

If some parts of the connecting rod-piston group are not damaged and slightly worn, then they can be used again. Therefore, when disassembling, we mark the parts in order to install them in the old cylinder.

Using the "17" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the crankshaft main bearing cap.

Remove the main bearing cover.

We take out the lower main bearing shell from the cover.

In the same way, remove four more main bearing caps.

We take out the crankshaft from the cylinder block.

We take out persistent half rings from the grooves of the rear support of the cylinder block.

We take out the upper liners of the crankshaft main bearings from the cylinder block supports.

After disassembling the engine, rinse thoroughly with gasoline and clean the parts from carbon deposits to check their technical condition.

To determine cylinder wear.

... We measure the cylinder diameter in four belts and two planes (parallel and perpendicular to the crankshaft axis) with an internal gage.

Cylinder measurement scheme: A and B - measurement directions; 1,2, 3 and 4 - belt numbers

Main dimensions of the cylinder block

To determine the wear of the piston skirt.

... with a micrometer we measure the diameter in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the piston pin, at a distance of 55 mm from the piston crown.

We measure the diameters with a micrometer.

... and main journals of the crankshaft.

Permissible runout of the main surfaces of the crankshaft

We grind the crankshaft journals to the nearest repair size if their wear or ovality is greater than 0.03 mm, as well as if there are seizures and risks on the journals.
(read also the article "Crankshaft - Grinding or Repair")

After grinding the crankshaft journals.

... it is necessary to remove the plugs of the oil channels.

We assemble the engine in reverse order.

We install new crankshaft bearing shells of nominal or repair size (after grinding the journals).

In the first, second, fourth and fifth bearings of the cylinder block, we install the upper main bearing shells with grooves.

... and in the third support there is a liner without a groove on the inner surface (the same as in the main bearing caps).

Lubricate the main bearing shells with engine oil and put the crankshaft in the supports.

We insert persistent half rings lubricated with engine oil into the grooves of the fifth support.

On the front side of the fifth support, we install a steel-aluminum half-ring, and on the back side - a cermet (yellow).

The surfaces of the semi-rings with an anti-friction coating (grooves are made on them) must face the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft.

We install the main bearing caps in accordance with the marks on their outer surface (counting is carried out from the side of the camshaft drive).

In this case, the locks of the upper and lower shells of each main bearing must be located on one side.

We tighten the bolts of the main bearing caps to the prescribed torque (see here).

Pistons for cylinders are selected by classes.

Marking of the size class of the cylinders on the block

The cylinder diameter class, designated by letters, is stamped on the lower plane of the cylinder block (the plane of the oil pan attachment).

The diameter classes of the piston skirt and the bores for the piston pin are marked on the piston crown.

When installing the piston in the cylinder, the arrow on the piston crown must point towards the camshaft drive.

When assembling the connecting rod-piston group, it is necessary that the piston pin, lubricated with engine oil, enters the hole of the piston or connecting rod with the effort of the hand and does not fall out of them when the finger is vertical.

To check the clearance in the piston ring lock, insert the ring into the cylinder and align the ring with the piston bottom.

Using a set of flat feelers, we check the clearance in the piston ring lock.

Lubricate the grooves on the pistons with engine oil.

We install rings on the pistons.

Install the lower compression ring with the groove ("scraper") down.

If the “TOP” or “TOP” mark is applied to the ring near the lock, then set the ring with the mark up.
The rings should turn freely in the grooves without jamming.

We arrange the rings as follows:

the lock of the upper compression ring is oriented at an angle of 45 ° to the axis of the piston ring;
the lock of the lower compression ring - at an angle of 180 ° to the axis of the lock of the upper ring;
oil scraper ring lock - at an angle of 90 ° to the axis of the upper compression ring lock (the expander joint is located on the side opposite to the lock).

Before installing the ShPG parts, we lubricate the cylinders, pistons with rings and connecting rod bearings with engine oil.

Before installing the piston in the cylinder, we put an adjustable mandrel on the piston.

... and, tightening the mandrel, squeeze the piston rings.

Install the piston with the connecting rod into the cylinder.

Resting the hammer handle on the piston bottom, push it into the cylinder.

When installing the connecting rod cap, the number on the connecting rod and the cap must match and be on one side of the connecting rod.

Tighten the connecting rod nuts with the prescribed torque (see here).

Further assembly is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.

Replace gaskets and gaskets with new ones.

When installing the flywheel, we orient it so that the mounting (conical hole), located on the rear plane of the flywheel next to the ring gear, is located opposite the connecting rod journal of the fourth cylinder.

Before disassembling, we clean the engine from dirt.

Using the "17" head, unscrew the three bolts attaching the front axle gearbox bracket to the cylinder block.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the four nuts securing the left support bracket of the power unit to the cylinder block.

... and remove the bracket assembly with the pillow.
After removing the brackets on their mounting pins and threaded holes in the cylinder block, we mount the dismantling stand plate and fix the engine on the stand. Remove the clutch (see Replacing the driven and driving clutch discs).
Remove the flywheel and clutch housing cover (see Replacing the rear crankshaft oil seal).

Using the "13" head, we unscrew the four nuts securing the bracket for the right support of the power unit to the cylinder block.

... and remove the bracket with a pillow.

Using the "17" head, unscrew the three bolts attaching the generator bracket to the cylinder block.

We remove the hose from the branch pipe of the outlet tube.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the flange of the heater radiator outlet pipe to the coolant pump housing.

... remove the heater radiator outlet pipe and its sealing gasket.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the three bolts securing the coolant pump to the cylinder block.

... and remove the coolant pump assembly and its gasket.

On an injection engine, dismantle the cylinder head assembly with a receiver, an intake pipe and an exhaust manifold (see Removing and disassembling the cylinder head of an injection engine).
On a carburetor engine, we remove the cylinder head assembly with the carburetor, intake pipe and exhaust manifold (see Removing and disassembling the cylinder head of a carburetor engine).
Remove the oil separator of the crankcase ventilation system, the oil pan and the oil pump (see the relevant sections).

Using the "10" head, unscrew the six bolts securing the rear crankshaft oil seal holder to the cylinder block.

We pry the rear oil seal holder with a screwdriver for the tides.

... and remove the holder assembly with an oil seal.

From the grooves of the oil seal holder, remove two special bolts (with square heads) securing the clutch housing cover.

Remove the rear oil seal holder gasket.

Using the "14" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the connecting rod cover (the piston should be in the BDC).

Knocking on the side surfaces of the lid with a hammer with a plastic striker.

We take out the lower shell of the connecting rod bearing from the cover.

Leaning on the ends of the rods of the connecting rod bolts, we move the lower head of the connecting rod from the connecting rod journal of the crankshaft.

Resting the wooden handle of the hammer on the connector of the lower connecting rod head, push the piston into the cylinder.

... and remove the piston with the connecting rod from the cylinder.

We take out the upper bearing shell from the connecting rod head.
In the same way, we remove the pistons with connecting rods from other cylinders.
We clamp the connecting rod in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.

With your fingers, gently (without applying great effort) unclench the lock of the upper compression ring.

... and remove the upper compression ring.

... lower compression ring.

... two discs of an oil ring.

Remove the oil scraper ring expander.

For removing the piston from the connecting rod.

... pry the piston pin retaining ring with a screwdriver.

... and remove it from the annular groove of the piston.

In the same way, we take out the second retaining ring of the finger.
By sliding the piston pin.

... we remove it from the hole in the piston.

Remove the piston from the upper connecting rod head.

Using the "17" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the crankshaft main bearing cap.

Remove the main bearing cover.

We take out the lower main bearing shell from the cover.

In the same way, remove four more main bearing caps.

We take out the crankshaft from the cylinder block.

We take out persistent half rings from the grooves of the rear support of the cylinder block.

We take out the upper liners of the crankshaft main bearings from the cylinder block supports.

After disassembling the engine, rinse thoroughly with gasoline and clean the parts from carbon deposits to check their technical condition.
To determine cylinder wear.

... We measure the cylinder diameter in four belts and two planes (parallel and perpendicular to the crankshaft axis) with an internal gage.

To determine the wear of the piston skirt.

... with a micrometer we measure the diameter in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the piston pin, at a distance of 55 mm from the piston crown.

We measure the diameters with a micrometer.

... and main journals of the crankshaft.

We grind the crankshaft journals to the nearest repair size if their wear or ovality is greater than 0.03 mm, as well as if there are seizures and risks on the journals.
After grinding the crankshaft journals.

... it is necessary to remove the plugs of the oil channels.

... Thoroughly rinse the channels to remove abrasive residues and blow with compressed air.
Grinding of the crankshaft journals, removal and installation of new plugs is carried out at the service station.
We assemble the engine in reverse order.
We install new crankshaft bearing shells of nominal or repair size (after grinding the journals).
In the first, second, fourth and fifth bearings of the cylinder block, we install the upper main bearing shells with grooves.

... and in the third support there is a liner without a groove on the inner surface (the same as in the main bearing caps).

Lubricate the main bearing shells with engine oil and put the crankshaft in the supports.

We insert persistent half rings lubricated with engine oil into the grooves of the fifth support.

On the front side of the fifth support, we install a steel-aluminum half-ring, and on the back side - a cermet (yellow).

The surfaces of the semi-rings with an anti-friction coating (grooves are made on them) must face the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft.

We install the main bearing caps in accordance with the marks on their outer surface (counting is carried out from the side of the camshaft drive).

In this case, the locks of the upper and lower shells of each main bearing must be located on one side.

Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the specified torque (see Tightening torques for threaded connections).

Pistons for cylinders are selected by classes.

The cylinder diameter class, designated by letters, is stamped on the lower plane of the cylinder block (the plane of the oil pan attachment).

The diameter classes of the piston skirt and the bores for the piston pin are marked on the piston crown.

When installing the piston in the cylinder, the arrow on the piston crown must point towards the camshaft drive.
When assembling the connecting rod-piston group, it is necessary that the piston pin, lubricated with engine oil, enters the hole of the piston or connecting rod with the effort of the hand and does not fall out of them when the finger is vertical.
To check the clearance in the piston ring lock, insert the ring into the cylinder and align the ring with the piston bottom.

Using a set of flat feelers, we check the clearance in the piston ring lock.

Lubricate the grooves on the pistons with engine oil.
We install rings on the pistons.

Install the lower compression ring with the groove ("scraper") down.

If the “TOP” or “TOP” mark is applied to the ring near the lock, then set the ring with the mark up.
The rings should turn freely in the grooves without jamming.
We arrange the rings as follows:
the lock of the upper compression ring is oriented at an angle of 45 ° to the axis of the piston ring;
the lock of the lower compression ring - at an angle of 180 ° to the axis of the lock of the upper ring;
oil scraper ring lock - at an angle of 90 ° to the axis of the upper compression ring lock (the expander joint is located on the side opposite to the lock).
Before installing the ShPG parts, we lubricate the cylinders, pistons with rings and connecting rod bearings with engine oil.

Before installing the piston in the cylinder, we put an adjustable mandrel on the piston.

... and, tightening the mandrel, squeeze the piston rings.
Install the piston with the connecting rod into the cylinder.

Resting the hammer handle on the piston bottom, push it into the cylinder.

When installing the connecting rod cap, the number on the connecting rod and the cap must match and be on one side of the connecting rod.

Tighten the connecting rod nuts with the prescribed torque (see Tightening torques for threaded connections). Further assembly is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly. Replace gaskets and gaskets with new ones.

Years of release - (1994 - present)
Cylinder block material - cast iron
Power system - carburetor (21213) / injector (21214)
Type - in-line
Number of cylinders - 4
Valves per cylinder - 2
Piston stroke - 80mm
Cylinder diameter - 82mm
Compression ratio - 9.4
The volume of the Niva 21213 engine is 1690 cc.
Engine power Niva 21213 - 81 hp / 5200 rpm
Torque - 125Nm / 3000 rpm
Fuel - AI93
Fuel consumption - city 11.5l. | track 8.3 l. | mixed 10.5 l / 100 km
Oil consumption - 700 g per 1000 km
Niva engine weight - 117 kg
Overall dimensions of the Niva 21213 engine (LxWxH), mm -
Oil in the Niva 21213 engine:
5W-30
5W-40
10W-40
15W-40
How much oil is in the Niva 21213/21214 engine: 3.75 liters.
When replacing, fill in about 3.5 liters.

Niva engine resource:
1. According to the data of the plant - 80 thousand km
2. In practice - up to 150 thousand km

TUNING
Potential - 200 HP
Without loss of resource - 90 hp.

Engine VAZ 21213 1.7 liters. carburetor / injection (21214) inline 4-cylinder with an overhead camshaft, the Niva timing belt has a chain drive. On the basis of 214 motors, a VAZ 2123 engine is produced for a Chevy Niva, the differences in the adaptation of the unit for installation in the engine compartment of shnivy and attachments of attachments are technically almost identical.
The main differences between the VAZ 21213 engine and 2106 with a cylinder diameter of 82 mm., The cylinder head, the Niva 21213 engine block from 2106 differs in lower height. Of the advantages of 213 motors, it is worth noting the presence of a chain tensioner (no need to tighten) and hydraulic compensators (no need to adjust the valve). Disadvantages of the Niva engine - noisy, eating oil, prone to overheating to vibrations, low resource.
The motor has all the problems of the classic series, all the same, the 21213 niva engine heats up, troit, knocks, etc., what are the problems, for each case, is described in detail HERE, in the section of problems and malfunctions.

It makes no sense to write about this for a long time, because the Niva chip is useless, the atmospheric engine cannot be stirred up with the chip, and all the rave reviews are nothing more than an attempt to justify the waste of money, we go further.

The question on the agenda: how to increase the engine power of the cornfield without any special tweaks? The first stage is to increase the piston stroke to 84 mm using a crankshaft from a VAZ 2130, 82mm pistons with a 2mm displacement of the piston pin and we already have 1.8 liters. The second stage is to bore the cylinders under the 84 mm piston, thus assembling the 1.9 engine on the field. To fully boost the VAZ 21213 engine, you need to add a more efficient carburetor, bore the cylinder head channels (as described in HERE), an inlet diameter of 33 mm and an outlet of 31 mm, it is advisable to use light connecting rods, as a result we get about 100 hp.
The third stage - we are building a 2 liter engine. We buy on the market a tuning crankshaft with a stroke of 88mm and pistons 84mm with a 4mm pin offset. A full-fledged revision of the VAZ 21213 engine will be completed after installing the Nuzhdin camshaft (or equivalent) with a rise of 11.2, a light flywheel, light connecting rods and a modified carburetor, all this in total will give about 110 hp.

- piston of standard diameter, extended stroke
1.8 l. 82x84

85 h.p.
Maximum torque

135Nm at 3000rpm
- a piston with a larger diameter, increased stroke
1.9 l. 84x84
- a piston with a larger diameter, increased stroke
2.0 l. 84x88

Periodically, the forums raise the issue of installing a 2112 motor in a cornfield, this is a rather difficult and meaningless task, due to the fact that 16V motors love revs and are not well suited for an SUV. If you want speed, sell your car and buy a Priora. The Niva is not adapted for high speeds and its tuning should be aimed, first of all, at increasing traction at the bottom.

The pros and cons are described HERE in the Turbo Classic section.

We use kit kits based on the PK-23-1 supercharger or analogs with a pressure of 0.5 bar, injectors from the 406th Volgovskiy engine, the piston remains factory-made, the output is more than 100hp. The resource will be reduced, but not critical.
It is not recommended to install more efficient superchargers, the factory piston will not withstand and the motor will require significant costly changes.

The VAZ 21214 engine was conceived as the first injection engine for a domestic SUV. Niva was not very popular in the USSR, but it was exported to Asia, Great Britain, Europe, Latin America and the USA. Since 1994, there have been several modifications and modifications of the internal combustion engine from Euro-0 to Euro-5 (export).

It is believed that the basis of the ICE 21214 was the previous version 21213. In fact, ¾ parts in the engine

the engine circuit has changed - an injector instead of a carburetor;
additional attachments appeared - DPKV, DHX sensor, Bosch MP 7.0 controller;
a crankshaft with a long crank radius of 40 mm, not used in previous AvtoVAZ engines;
Cylinder head with holes for the phase sensor and receiver pins, hydraulic supports for valve levers instead of adjusting bolts.

Since the base model bends the valve, the 21214 engine did not escape this fate, therefore, not only a description of the engines was added to the manual, but also a maintenance schedule to ensure at least the minimum declared resource of 80,000 km, which was promised by the manufacturer's representatives.

The design of the 21214 power drive provides it with the following technical characteristics:

combined cycle 10.5 l / 100 km

clutch bolt - 19 - 30 Nm

bearing cover - 68 - 84 Nm (main) and 43 - 53 (connecting rod)

cylinder head - three stages 20 Nm, 69 - 85 Nm + 90 ° + 90 °

With the advent of thermal valve clearance hydraulic compensators, it is recommended to use exclusively high-quality oil in the engine.

Initially, the 21214 engine was developed for distributed injection, that is, for an injector. It was planned to ensure the environmental friendliness standard, which was successfully completed - in the process of finalizing the internal combustion engines, they had Euro-2 - Euro-4, and for the export versions of Niva and Nadezhda, even Euro-5.Factory forcing became the main feature of 21214:

an injector instead of a carburetor;

modified cylinder head (hydraulic pushers);

In turn, this required the improvement of other structures:

the volume of engine oil increased, the pump sprocket began to have 30 teeth to increase its performance;

the double-row chain has been replaced by a single-row roller modification to drive the attachments and the timing camshaft;

the camshaft cams have changed shape.

Upgraded chain tensioning system:

the spring creates a pre-tension when the motor is off;

after starting, pressure is created in the system, the tension is regulated by the hydraulics.

The manufacturer provided additional tuning with his own hands due to the potential of +50 hp incorporated in the design. With. Overhaul of the simplest ICE design, including in the garage on its own, does not cause problems.

Bosch nozzles 0280158110 were first installed on the fuel rail, then yellow Siemens VAZ 20734. The ignition has a modular design with controllers Bosch MP 7.9.7 and January 7.2. pair-parallel injection provides Euro-2, phased injection - Euro-3.

The specified characteristics of the engine and its design have disadvantages:

high noise during operation;
very low service life;
significant vibrations on the machine body;
overheating of the motor in the urban cycle;
high engine oil consumption.

As a result, frequent overhauls and an increased operating budget. The main advantages are:

automatic chain tensioner;
valve hydraulic pushers;

All the problems of the classic series remain, however, with timely maintenance, the motor does not deliver any special problems to the owner.

The 21214 engine was used to complete several cars of the AvtoVAZ manufacturer:

Lada Niva 4x4 (VAZ-21214) - three-door SUV;
Lada 4x4 M - a modernized version with power steering and ABS;
Lada 4x4 5D (VAZ-213100) - an extended modification of a five-door SUV;
"Ambulance" (VAZ-213145) - Euro-2/3 in small series;
Lada Nadezhda (VAZ-2120) is a seven-seater four-wheel drive minivan.

The management did not consider it necessary to put it on the seven-seater minivan Largus. But in all modifications of the Niva 3-door and 5-door (Bronto, Cedar, Pickup, River, Bys and armored vehicle collection) he was present.

Since 1994, the manufacturer has adjusted the parameters of the 21214 motor several times:

21214-10 (2002) - Euro 0, the first version had central gasoline injection;
21214-20 (2006) - Euro-2 controller Bosch MR 7.0, pair-variable injection;
21214-30 (2008) - Euro 3, without power steering;
21214-41 (2011) - Euro-4 for the Russian Federation and Euro-5 for export, power steering, welded manifold;
21214-22 - Euro-2, valve arm hydraulic supports appeared;
21214-31 - Euro-3, welded steel manifold, power steering pump;
21214-32 - Euro-3, power steering, cast iron manifold, flywheel for 215 mm clutch diameter;
21214-33 - Euro-3, cast iron manifold, hydraulic booster;
21214-34 - Euro-3, cast manifold without power steering.

All versions from the factory had INA hydromounts, with the exception of version 21214-41, which was equipped with YaZTA hydromounts.

Modification 21214-28 had a volume of 1.8 liters due to the larger piston stroke of 84 mm. Internal combustion engine power reached 92 liters. with., and a torque of 159 Nm. In total, a little more than 69 engines of this type were produced.

The manufacturer AvtoVAZ recommends servicing the 21214 engine on its own or at a service station according to the following schedule:

oil and filter are renewed annually or after 7.5 - 10 thousand mileage;
the chain has a high resource of 200 thousand, but the tension / tension is monitored regularly;
the fuel and air filter becomes unusable after 20-30 thousand mileage;
candles and batteries are usually enough for 60 - 70 thousand km;
It is recommended that the cabin filter be renewed annually, regardless of the vehicle's mileage.

Initially, the ICE device was simpler, but it was necessary to periodically adjust the confusing settings of the thermal clearances of the valves. Then the upgrade added hydraulic pushers to the timing design, saving the user from this operation and monthly costs.

Initially, the 21214 engine has a characteristic breakdown - failure of 1 - 2 cylinders due to a breakdown of the ignition module from overheating. The coils and the control switch burn out, the electrical equipment needs to be replaced. The rest of the breakdowns are typical for most VAZ engines:3) failure of the valve timing2) adjustment of the interelectrode gap, cleaning from carbon deposits3) installation according to shaft marks4) lapping valves, cylinder repair1) replacement of the idle speed sensor2) kinked hose or tube3) the drain line is out of order4) plug from steam in the supply system2) inspection and correction of geometryHydraulic lifters eliminate the planned adjustment of valve clearances after 5-15 thousand kilometers.The manufacturer used only one technique to increase the engine power - increasing the piston stroke. Self-tuning will help to modify the 21214 engine to use all its potential (about 90 hp):

cylinder bore in the block - scheme 84/84 or 84/88 to obtain 1.9 liters and 2.0 liters (cylinder diameter / piston stroke, respectively);

revision of the cylinder head - boring channels up to 31 mm (outlet) and 33 mm (inlet), installation of a light ShPG flywheel, Nuzhdin camshaft.

Thus, the injection version 21214 is superior to the basic modification of the carburetor engine. It has increased torque and power, bends valves with pistons when a single-row chain is worn.Whatever the critics of the domestic auto industry may say, the Niva has long taken a deservedly honorable place in the pantheon of Russian know-how - along with spaceships and cabbage pickle as a hangover cure.High cross-country ability, reliability, maintainability and unpretentiousness - these are the qualities that explain the amazing vitality of the brand. After light styling and serious constructive interventions, this car becomes a favorite vehicle for anglers, hunters, villagers and outdoor enthusiasts.The most significant difference between the Niva 21214 and the 21213 model is an injection engine with a distributed injection system.Thanks to the useful improvement, the appetite of the updated Russian mini-jeep has noticeably decreased, and the dynamic characteristics have become prettier.Anyone who drives an injection "Niva" does not know what manual idle adjustment, bending-bending of the carburetor float and other manipulations that take time and thin the nerves of the owners of carburetor machines are.The search for a reasonable compromise in improving the VAZ 21214 should be carried out in three directions - unless the plans include a complete "bulkhead" of the engine. The first is chip tuning, that is, reprogramming the engine ECU. The second is to improve the operational parameters of the running gear (we wrote about this in the article "Do-it-yourself Chevrolet Niva tuning").The third area of effort is to improve the comfort of the passenger compartment. Having engaged in such a radical transformation of the "Niva", it is not superfluous to think about increasing its cross-country ability, since the main purpose of this car was and remains off-road overcoming.Despite all the advantages of factory settings, many owners of the NIVA 21214 do not want to put up with the initial firmware of the electronic engine control unit, and turn to chip tuning specialists for the additional agility of their leisurely iron "horse".These two desires can be realized at the same time. But only if you don’t do chip tuning VAZ 21214 do it yourself, but entrust it to people who are professionally engaged in flashing automotive electronics.The market for Niva chip tuning software has its own recognized leaders who are trusted not only by beginners, but also by experienced drivers. Therefore, we advise you to use deeply and comprehensively tested firmware developed by authors working under the nickname Ledokol, Adakt or Paylus, and presenting their own software.Before driving the car in a chip-tuning studio, do not forget to put the engine in order: none of the electronics engineers will work with a faulty engine, it is simply pointless.In advance, choose one of the several most common variants of the VAZ 21214 chipset. In any more or less worthwhile workshop you will be offered dynamic, economical, urban types of firmware, as well as off-road and highway modes.Good craftsmen guarantee: flashing allows you to switch from 95 to 92 gasoline without significant loss of power and increase in fuel consumption. However, do not flatter yourself excessively: the difference is still noticeable. The energy consumption of AI-95 is higher than that of AI-92, and even a particularly successful chip tuning does not cancel the laws of physics.The benefits of cooperation with advanced craftsmen are undeniable: for Niv owners who have not expired the factory warranty, reputable chip-tuning ateliers offer flashing the electronic control unit without changing the identifiers.If you operate a car in the city and on highways, rarely going off-road, it is better to stay on the universal single-mode city-highway firmware. This chip tuning option is statistically the most in demand. It gives the following results:- improving the dynamics of acceleration in all ranges of each of the five gears;- increase in torque at any crankshaft speed. At the same time, a confident pick-up begins with lower speeds;- reduction of fuel consumption at low and medium loads by 10-15%;- elimination of the instability of the cold engine, the disappearance of twitching at low speeds;- the ability to use both 95th and 92nd gasoline.The "city-highway" type firmware allows you to get away from the problem with the capricious oxygen sensor and catalyst. The physical removal of these devices and the transfer of the engine to the Euro 2 environmental standards mode will not be approved by every nivovod, but. this method is quite popular in our country.The most versatile option for Niva 21214 chip tuning is loading dual-mode software into the ECU. Providing good vehicle performance in the city, on the highway and off-road, this tuning option is implemented by installing a special switch that works along the oxygen sensor channel. You can switch from one mode to another while driving!When using the "city-highway" mode, the behavior of the car corresponds to the parameters mentioned above. But the integration into the set of control programs of the second mode, "off-road", gives the driver a number of important advantages. This:- simultaneous switching on of two fans long before the critical temperature is reached. Allows to avoid overheating of the motor;- an increase in idle speed. Improves engine cooling and increases pressure in the lubrication system;- ensuring a significant increase in traction "at the bottom";- improvement of the engine response to the operation of the gas pedal at low and medium speeds;- disabling the oxygen sensor control;- general optimization of the ignition system;- intensification of fuel supply when the engine is running under high load.The last point requires clarification. Gasoline consumption in off-road tuning mode is about 15% higher than when the Niva 21214 engine is running on standard firmware.Despite its official off-road status, VAZ 21214 gratefully responds to such useful improvements as the independent fastening of the front axle gearbox and the installation of off-road rubber.The front gearbox mounted directly on the engine housing is the main source of vibration during acceleration. Therefore, its "decoupling" from the power unit has a positive effect on driving comfort. An important point: instead of a serial RPM shank cover made of silumin (for Chevrolet-Niva), it is better to take a tuning steel model with a three-point mount.Standard Niva wheels are good for driving on a dirt road, but not sufficient for real off-road conditions. Therefore, many owners - avid tourists, hunters and motor sportsmen - use larger diameter tires (from 29 to 32 inches) instead of standard 27-inch tires.To achieve success in this work, you will have to lift the suspension (the details of this process are discussed in the article "Increasing the clearance of the Niva as a way of self-expression"), as well as expanding the wheel arches. Increased mechanical loads on the moving parts of the undercarriage may require replacing ball pins, bearings and other critical parts with stronger ones.It is possible to increase the ground clearance with "little blood", without installing an elevator kit. To do this, some craftsmen put on 15-inch wheels "mud" tires I-192 from UAZ... After the completion of the revision, the vehicle's ground clearance increases by almost 45 mm, which allows you to confidently move over rough terrain. By lowering the pressure in such tires to 0.8-0.4 atmospheres, you will not get stuck in deep sand. Low-profile tires, worn on large (19-20 inches) discs, look strange and work unpredictably on the Niva. Fashion is fashion, but practicality must not be forgotten. Low-profile tires are only really suitable for high-speed cars.By replacing the rear drum brakes with a set of disc brakes, you will feel more confident and safer when driving at any speed. Disc brakes respond faster and distribute braking forces more accurately. They heat up less during active driving, and are also more reliable and easier to maintain. The main thing is that they are much less afraid of drums than liquid dirt.Useful off-road devices – a powerful "kenguryatnik" and a power bumper with an adapter for a removable electric winch not only decorate the "Niva", but also help to independently get out of the dangerous slabs.Having equipped the car with a winch, do not forget to take on the road a second battery with a capacity of at least 50 ampere hours (better - more), since the staff member after working with the winch may not have enough strength even to start the motor.To reduce the vibration amplitude and the noise level transmitted by the transfer case to the body, as well as to protect the fragile aluminum body of this unit from damage, a special subframe must be installed. It's inexpensive, easy to install, and extremely useful!Since the VAZ 21214 has a very cramped luggage compartment, a full-size expedition roof rack must be installed on the roof for trips to nature with a "full load". The streamlined forms of plastic "cases" mounted on the roof of a car are fashionable. However, closed plastic containers are heavy, fragile and small. A lightweight tubular trunk with a fine metal mesh at the bottom is really convenient.The minimalism of the Niva's interior design, inherited from the limited possibilities of the past, needs to be eradicated. Do-it-yourself creation of comfort and coziness in Niva is a creative task for the owner. Its solution is a duty, and the ability to "outperform" industrial designers is an honor!The choice of decorative overlays, LED lighting and finishing materials for the Niva salon is incredibly wide today. Following the successful examples of the tuning already done, you without much effort and expense (blessed are those who believe) will be able to unrecognizably transform the internal space of the Niva, making it as functional, comfortable and aesthetic as possible.Most owners of VAZ 21214 begin the process of tuning the salon from the seats, without regret throwing away the old seats and installing comfortable sports ones instead. Following the seats is the turn of the steering wheel. After replacing the most important vehicle control, you can start updating the dashboard and front panel.Weak standard interior lighting requires surgical intervention. The best option is to install a bright LED lamp powered by built-in batteries.Simplicity and ease of installation and power supply of the LED strip makes it possible to supply light to the dark compartments of the car. No special knowledge required! Light DIY tuning - this is reality!

Video (click to play).

The LED chain of the trunk turns on through the alarm switch (on the left in the photo), and the power for it is taken from the side lights. The lighting of the engine compartment is organized in a similar way.