DIY engine repair zil 157

In detail: do-it-yourself Zil 157 engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

With the release of more and more new technologies, and the improvement of engines, many motorists forget about the old people who won the hearts of millions. So, the old ZIL power units have long been outdated and almost out of use. But, in the separated regions of the CIS countries, these motors continue to be used, over and over again undergoing major overhauls.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Before proceeding directly to the consideration of the issue of overhaul, it is worth considering for what reasons it is being carried out. So, why does the ZIL engine fail:

  • The wear of the main elements, such as the crankshaft or the cylinders of the power unit. This is related to work and resource development.
  • Burnout of the piston mechanism due to the influence of time, as well as the use of low-quality fuel.
  • Mechanical breakdowns of the cylinder head and block. The presence of cracks and wear on the oil seals.

The main reason is the wear of all parts during operation or breakdowns.

Overhaul of the ZIL engine is quite difficult and is not always a cost-effective solution. But, since buying a new car or a cylinder block will cost much more, practice shows that they are trying to repair the ZIL engine.

So, as in any case, a major overhaul begins with dismantling the motor. Since there are several options for engines, this is a purely individual process, moreover, the engine may not be located on a ZIL car, but for example on a GAZon. Therefore, we skip this procedure and immediately proceed to disassemble the power unit.

Video (click to play).

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

After the power unit is disassembled, you can proceed with the disassembly process. The first thing to remove is the carburetor. Since the fuel supply system was removed at the dismantling stage, only this element remained. To remove the carburetor, unscrew the 4 fastening nuts and lift the part up. After that, it is necessary to unscrew the studs from the intake manifold. If this cannot be done using standard methods, a stud and bolt puller will help.

The next step is to dismantle the collectors. In this case, everything is simple. To dismantle the elements, it is necessary to unscrew the fastening nuts and pull off the collectors from the mounting points. Further, it is necessary, as in the case of the carburetor, to unscrew the studs from the cylinder block.

Having unscrewed the fastening nuts, we remove the valve covers, of which the engine has two. Then, it is necessary to proceed to disassembling the auxiliary units. If during disassembly the generator and starter were not removed, then they must be dismantled, having previously dismantled the drive belt.

Next, you need to remove the fuel pump, centrifugal oil filter, drive belts and pulleys. If the engine oil has not been drained, then it must be drained. To do this, unscrew the drain bolt. After the power of the engine oil, unscrew the sump mount and dismantle the element.

Next will be the dismantling of the main elements of the engine. We dismantle the water pump. Having unscrewed the fastening of the block heads, the elements are dismantled from the engine. We turn the motor over and unscrew the yoke mounting bolts. After the yoke is removed, it is necessary to loosen the connecting rod journal bolts. The crankshaft is now removed from the cylinder block.

It is worth noting that as the connecting rods are unscrewed, the pistons are removed along with the second part of the connecting rod and oil scraper rings. In this case, you need to be careful that the heavy element does not fall to your feet, since the engine is inverted.

So, the main elements have been removed from the cylinder block, and you can begin to carry out repair and restoration operations.So, all structural elements and engine parts are washed with hot kerosene.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

As practice shows, the cylinder block is already liner, and therefore boring takes place directly on the engine itself. If the unit was under repair, then it may need to be sealed. It is recommended to entrust this operation to professionals at a car service for repairing engines. Consider the dimension of repairs and cylinder block boring using the example of the ZIL 130 engine:

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

This is a short story about the Soviet truck ZIL-157, which stood motionless on the street for more than 20 years and they just wanted to hand it over for scrap.

During the years of inactivity in the open air, the truck practically burrowed into the ground and began to be covered with rust and moss. He already had a direct road to second steel, at least so his owners thought. But there were craftsmen enthusiasts and decided to bring the legendary ZIL-157 back to lifeWhat came of this can be seen in these photos.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

This is the state of the car after more than two decades of inactivity.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Despite the long-term layer of dust, the cabin has been preserved in full completeness.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

The front end is exposed on wooden chocks.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

The crankshaft was turned by the handle.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Immediately we changed the candles to new ones, put in a battery, and connected a hose from a can of gasoline to the fuel pump.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

The engine started, despite twenty years of idle time.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

The tires were pumped up, water was poured into the radiator.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Hoses were changed from the tank to the fuel pump.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Apparently, before this wire was covered with insulation, the wire was removed.

They started the engine, turned on the first gear, and ZiL cheerfully began to roll out the track, freeing itself from the ground.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Despite so many years of inactivity, ZiL went on its own to the new owners, where a complete restoration and thousands of kilometers of road await him.

Comrades! Hivemind is required. What to do exactly? We have practically a new zil and, accordingly, a new motor. The mileage has not yet reached 3000 km from birth. Low-valve motor. What to do now? Sharpen your head? How much? Will the valves stick? And in general, how will he feel at 92m lutz?
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1907/0904/48/f26d72b816cct.jpg

Oleg, put on gas and more cylinders

1. You press your head (you grind by three to four mm).
2. You just put the ignition ahead of the curve without alterations (nothing will happen to the engine) of the engine itself and use the AI-92.
3. DO NOT THINK to dilute the fuel with diesel fuel! You cannot lower the octane number in this way, but the engine of such a mixture will certainly not be happy.
4. I heard about non-standard candles that lower the volume of the combustion chamber.
5. It is stupid to switch to gas.

: D: D: D Just grind the cylinder head will not work - not the same engine.
Just turning the distributor will not work - the compression ratio is 6.0 - 6.2
I haven’t heard about candles, but if they exist, they are unlikely to help with this engine.
Stupidly switch to gas = stupidly burned out the engine.

Can it be possible to weld luminescence in the combustion chamber and increase the compression ratio?

They tried to do something similar on the M-20, except for detonation they did not achieve anything.

In the neighboring village, I regularly observe the 157th on gas, the cylinders are installed between the body and the cab in two rows. So on it they constantly go to the forest for firewood. I haven’t seen them repair it yet, they are driving current.

It looks like a methane plant. I'm thinking about it now, but the price tag. Yes, and carb for methane needs a different one. :-( it is more expedient to think at the expense of the Nissan diesel engine :( Mlyat, dear guardians of the people.! They could not sleep in the presence of the 80th.
These are the options I am considering.



It looks like a methane plant. I'm thinking about it now, but the price tag. Yes, and carb for methane needs a different one. :-( it is more expedient to think at the expense of the Nissan diesel engine :( Mlyat, dear guardians of the people.! They could not sleep in the presence of the 80th.
These are the options I am considering.



Oleg. I don't know what the guys are saying, but I'll tell you the experience.
My father works in Biiskmezhraygaz. All their carbide equipment runs on liquefied gas. for five years my father had a gas 52 cage. these cars have never seen gasoline. they do not have tanks, there are no pumps, only the carburetor was standing because of the dampers))))
So nothing there burned and did not burn out. Breaking through the gaskets? well, it was normal because the lawn is always laden. There were pluses on gas.
1) worked silently, only the belts and the fan rustled
2) in the heat into the scorching heat, he drove and did not get up because of the overheating of the gas pump
well, many others related to gas.
Minuses)
1) there is such a PUMPING effect. there is no detonation and the drivers often even went uphill by 4 until it starts to twitch and this is already 20 km / h.
2) the equipment was not reliable then Lovato Italian
3) at -40 gas pressure dropped and the car barely moved ..
Until now, my father only works for GAZ-53 ... and all equipment for GAZ ..

They had one ZIL onboard flew, did not go .. The motorists tramblers adjusted as the lead angle of the native under the GAZ was not enough, therefore, they muddied the tama but sawed the ZIL fly like a torpedo.

So go for it. go to the GAZ service and you will see still crawling GAZons and ZILs on gas

We don't have gas lawns. There are zilas 130s. But with them everything is clear and so. It's just that the price tag for gas equipment, together with work, is approximately equal to the price tag for an iponic diesel. Only in the first case we have an unpredictable result in exploitation, and in the second, a commercial freight diesel engine. So now I'm toiling with a choice. I have a prejudice to gas, brought up by long experience with gazelles. But it's easier with them. Driven off 60t.km, and into the trash. And here. -) I have it for a long time. ;-)

Oleg.
Gazik rides on Lovatovsky equipment for the Volga as well as on the Cargo Factory))) Since in the Gas Sections the drivers are given these gearboxes)))) Gas equipment will cost you 15tyr. and a diesel engine with 80-100 sput. gearbox lovato and Polish lovantin go to repair a couple of three years. only the evaporator is supplied with a cargo volume.
And you got the ghazal gazelles.
Decide yourself.

I don’t understand one thing:
on the 92nd it is impossible, and why is it possible to use gas.
Why should a person be misled!

Let me explain:
_Octane number of gasoline - 92 units. This gasoline burns slowly at low compression ratios. From which it burns out already in the exhaust manifold, through the valves. The valves overheat from this and burn out.
_Octane number of gas - 110 units. That is, the gas burns even more slowly, with all the same "charms" as the 92nd.

Well, why the benz 92 is not allowed, but the gas is possible?

It is more logical to assume that gas is even worse! But, practice shows that they drive on gas. This thread is also a confirmation of this.

That is why - for the umpteenth time I repeat: the 92nd can be cast. (still it would be a commodity 92nd. in real life, if it scores 88 points - and that's good)
BUT. put the ignition on early - ONCE.
Increase the clearance in the exhaust valves by 0.1 mm - TWO.
Avoid running the engine at maximum speed for a long time - THREE.
If these three conditions are met, the engine will ride on the 92nd without any problems.

Separately for all conditions:
Ignition early - to increase the combustion time of the fuel in the compression stroke. In addition, the flame front of a high-octane benzene with a low compression ratio spreads more slowly, therefore it needs to be ignited a little earlier in order to burn effectively.
Putting the ignition by ear is useless. Detonation at 92 may not be achieved. Therefore, it is necessary to put on a hot engine, leading to the early, until, when the motor starts, the piston starts to burst into a flash. Then we return the distributor to minus by division-one and a half, and try the result on the road.

Valve clearance:
We increase again in order to thus delay the opening of the exhaust a little, and let the benzyl burn out. In addition, there is a certain margin for thermal expansion at elevated temperatures, which appear at 92.

Turnover:
Older engines have long strokes and slow speeds. This helps with normal use. While at a low speed of rotation of the KV, the piston goes through its entire stroke after the compression stroke, the gasoline has time to burn. But at maximum and long rpm, it is likely that the fuel will not burn out, the torch is ejected through the exhaust valves and their burnout. Therefore, it is not advisable to drive along the track at the maximum.

On Gazelles (from this topic) heads and valves fly out of those drivers who do not comply with the above, but drive on gas. A typical mistake of a typical driver: the ignition is put under benz (so as not to clatter), because sometimes you have to drive on gasoline, naturally the 80th benz (who will flood the 92nd in the service room ..)) and then they tumble on the gas, they are healthy! Here, two in one does not work. Either on benzene it is neat, without tightness and detonation, and on gas from the bottom of my heart, or vice versa - gasoline without problems, and gas neatly, without racing ambitions.
With proper operation, the same gazelle runs on gas until the driver turns gray.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

This is a short story about the Soviet truck ZIL-157, which stood motionless on the street for more than 20 years and they just wanted to hand it over for scrap.

During the years of inactivity in the open air, the truck practically burrowed into the ground and began to be covered with rust and moss. He already had a direct road to second steel, at least so his owners thought. But there were craftsmen enthusiasts and decided to bring the legendary ZIL-157 back to lifeWhat came of this can be seen in these photos.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

This is the state of the car after more than two decades of inactivity.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Despite the long-term layer of dust, the cabin has been preserved in full completeness.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

The front end is exposed on wooden chocks.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

The crankshaft was turned by the handle.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Immediately we changed the candles to new ones, put in a battery, and connected a hose from a can of gasoline to the fuel pump.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

The engine started, despite twenty years of idle time.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

The tires were pumped up, water was poured into the radiator.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Hoses were changed from the tank to the fuel pump.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Apparently, before this wire was covered with insulation, the wire was removed.

They started the engine, turned on the first gear, and ZiL cheerfully began to roll out the track, freeing itself from the ground.

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

Despite so many years of inactivity, ZiL went under its own power to the new owners, where a complete restoration and thousands of kilometers of road await it.

armored wires were torn out in the car, and the car stood in the garage for a very long time, but then they decided to do it, but there were no armored wires, I bought new wires, but how to install them in place, and not to confuse their location, there were no wires at all, and I don’t know what and some place to put each wire, tell me how to restore them to their old places ****

The order of the cylinders: 1-5-3-6-2-4 .. place the marks and forward

..Yes. Okay, in more detail.
1) Install the piston of the first cylinder at TDC so that the alignment marks on the pulley or flywheel coincide - there may be options;
2) Remove the cover from the distributor and determine which terminal corresponds to the position of the slider. Usually there is a mark on it, but what about you - H.Z. Return the distributor cover to its place.
3) Starting from the first (from the radiator) spark plug, spread the wires in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders:
1st output of the distributor - 1st cylinder; The 2nd output of the distributor is the 5th cylinder, then 3-6-2-4 ..

.. if the wires are connected correctly, it should start. For the first time, set the ignition timing late - it starts easier, then adjust the octane corrector.

PS: email look for the scheme yourself, I'm lazy ..

okay, I make wires, but there you need a simple battery, average or from Kamaz, and there is also a stick like the place of the starter in the engine is inserted and it can start the engine, you can try to start from it, and how this engine starts up well or tell me bad please

pahaa wrote:
... there is a stick-like place of the starter, inserted into the engine ..

Image - DIY engine repair zil 157

..this is a “curve starter” .. Image - DIY engine repair zil 157
..from habit, you can get it in the jaw if it starts up .. ..so better with a starter, safer.
Starting not only depends on the “spark”, the carburetor must have gasoline - do not be lazy, pump it manually (this is such a lever on a gas pump), or pour a hundred grams of gasoline into the carburetor's float chamber through a hose ..
You can try to start it with any battery, even with a Zhiguli one (the standard one was 80 Amperes / hour), but you will surely put it on while you start it for the first time.
IMHO, five times could not start - look for a jamb... suddenly the distributor was completely pulled out, together with the drive, they could have made a mistake during installation. Then the ignition will be either very early or very late: remove the distributor, reinstall it according to the factory marks ..
  1. Remove and send the flywheel - from 700 p.
  2. Replace the support bearing - from 500 p.
  3. Engine diagnostics - from 200 p.
  4. Capital repairs - from 11 000 p.
  5. Valve adjustment - 1000 p.
  6. Replacing the piston group - 14,000 p.
  7. Remove and send the radio - 1200 p.
  8. Change the water pump - 1500 p.
  9. DBC defect - 4400 p.

Do you know what is the matter? In this article, the most popular cases are considered, why so it happens and how to fix it.

Do you know how often and in what way to change it? Do you want to send a zero resistance filter? You don't know which brand to buy? The answers to these questions can be found in the article.

It is difficult to find a new one, but something happens always with it. Read the article and find out how to fix the 3 most common problems with this motor. It is also described here, with what frequency it is necessary to change the oil.

Is a child growing up in your family? Naturally, the kid enjoys decorating the flowers on the wallpaper, tearing them off the wall. You have to periodically wash the wall covering, glue the wallpaper. When the child grows up, you can repair the Zil 157 engine with your own hands, which will return the apartment to its original appearance. Modern materials make it possible to bring to life the most interesting solutions, to completely renovate the home.

Life goes by rapidly, one day is similar to the next. Do you want variety, a change of scenery? The continuous work schedule provides for constant employment in the service, you have to be at home only in the evenings. An excellent solution would be to renovate an auto-finished apartment, allowing you to bring a new note of pleasure into your life. You can contact a specialized company that offers a turnkey service.

How to renovate your apartment or house if there is no time at all? At the moment, the opportunity to contact professionals who are ready to completely revitalize your premises is quite popular. Qualified designers develop projects, companies offer the opportunity to repair multimeters in Ukraine on a turnkey basis. You don't have to buy materials yourself, hire workers, control the process.

  • Manufacturer: Moscow Automobile Plant named after I.A. Likhacheva (production association ZIL)

    Start of release: 1974 year

    General information:
    The engine is a four-stroke carburetor with a vertical in-line arrangement of cylinders and a lower arrangement of valves.
    Designed for installation on trucks ZIL-130AN, ZIL-43150, dump truck ZIL-MMZ-45021 and chassis ZIL-130K, ZIL-431452, -495850, as well as for delivery to spare parts for them

    Normal operating conditions:
    The engine is designed for operation at ambient temperatures from + 50 ° to -40 ° С, relative air humidity up to 98% at + 35 ° С
    Allowable engine roll angles:
    longitudinal: 30 °,
    transverse: 20 °

    Complete set:
    ZIL-157D Engine complete with equipment and gearbox
    ZIL-157D Engine complete with equipment, without gearbox (for spare parts)

    Main technical data:
    Number of cylinders 6
    Working volume of cylinders, l 5.38
    Cylinder diameter and piston stroke, mm 100x114.3
    Compression ratio 6.5
    Rated power at 2800 min -1, kW (hp) 81 (110)
    Maximum torque at 1100-1400 min -1, N.m (kgs.m) 343 (35)
    Minimum idle speed, min -1 400-500
    Maximum idle speed, min -1 3200
    Firing order of cylinders 1-5-3-6-2-4
    The direction of rotation of the engine crankshaft is right
    Weight without grease without clutch and gearbox, kg 465
    Resource up to the first cap. repair, km 125 000

    Specific indicators:
    Liter power, kW / l (hp / l) 15.05 (22.45)
    Minimum specific fuel consumption, g / kWh (g / hp h) 333 (245)
    Average piston speed, m / s 10.67
    Average effective pressure, kPa (kgf / cm 2) 802.1 (8.18)
    Specific weight of the engine, kg / kW (kg / h.p.) 5.74 (4.22)
    Liter engine weight, kg / l 86.4

    Performance data
    Fuel A-72
    Butter
    all-season М-8А; M-8B1; M-8V1 DV-ASZp-10V (M-6z / 10V)
    in winter ASZp-6 (M-4z / 6V1)
    Coolant antifreeze or water

    Main assemblies and details

    Cylinder block cast, made of gray iron, without liners

    Cylinder head cast aluminum alloy

    The combustion chamber in the cylinder head, L-shaped

    Pistons cast, from an aluminum alloy, with an oval-barrel-shaped tin-plated skirt

    Piston rings:
    compression: 3, made of alloy cast iron, with a given pressure profile: 2 upper chrome-plated
    oil scraper: 1, steel, composite, chrome-plated

    Piston pins steel, hollow, floating, fixed with two retaining rings, offset from the piston axis by 1.6 mm.

    Connecting rods steel, forged, I-section, with a rolled bronze bushing pressed into the top head

    Crankshaft steel, forged, 7-bearing, with channels for greasing connecting rod bearings and dirt traps. The diameter of the main journals - 66 mm, connecting rods - 62 mm

    Main and connecting rod bearings
    with replaceable thin-walled bimetallic inserts (base - St08kp, anti-friction layer - high-tin aluminum alloy AMO-1-20)
    Thickness, mm: root insert - 2.25; connecting rod bearing - 1.75; antifriction layer - 0.45

    Flywheel cast, made of gray cast iron, with a pressed-on toothed rim for starting the engine with a starter

    Camshaft 4-support, steel, forged, with a gear for the drive of the oil pump and ignition distributor

    Camshaft drive a pair of helical gears from the crankshaft

    Camshaft bushings bimetallic steel

    Valve lifters steel, mushroom-shaped, adjustable, with surfacing of the working end with special cast iron

    Valves poppet, located in the cylinder block in one row obliquely to the cylinder axis
    inlet made of heat-resistant steel. disc diameter 48.5 mm, seat chamfer angle 30 °, valve lift 10 mm
    outlet made of heat-resistant steel, disc diameter 44 mm, seat chamfer angle 45 °, valve lift 102 mm

    Gas distribution phases, hail:
    opening of the inlet valve to v.m.t. 12.5
    closing of the inlet valve after n.m.t. 59.5
    opening of the outlet valve to b.c. 44.5
    closing of the outlet valve after VMT. 27.5

    Valve guides from gray cast iron

    Clutch
    1 disc, dry, disc diameter 340 mm

    Optional equipment Brake compressor and power steering pump mounted at the front of the engine and driven by belts from the crankshaft

    Engine mount Elastic, with rubber cushions
    Number of supports 3
    front bracket with rubber cushion, mounted on the timing gear cover
    rear 2 paws of the clutch housing

    Lubrication system

    Lubrication system type combined under pressure and spray
    Units and parts with forced lubrication: bearings of the crankshaft and camshaft, support of the roller of the distributor and the roller of the drive of the oil pump
    Oil pump gear, 2-section, the upper section supplies oil through the filter to the system, the lower one to the oil cooler
    Oil filter full-flow, centrifuge
    Ventilation system closed crankcase forced

    Supply system

    Fuel pump B-10B diaphragm, with manual feed lever
    Carburetor К-88АЖ, 2-chamber, with a falling flow, has an accelerating pump and an economizer
    Air purifier VM-15A or VM-23, oil bath with 2-stage air purification
    Engine speed limiter centrifugal-vacuum, with a sensor driven by a camshaft and an actuator in the carburetor, starting at 2800 +150 min-1
    Fine fuel filter with ceramic filter element

    Cooling system

    Cooling system type: liquid, with forced circulation of liquid
    Water pump centrifugal mounted on the front end of the cylinder block, driven by a V-belt from the crankshaft
    Fan steel 6-blade, attached to the hub on the water pump shaft
    Thermostat with solid filler, installed in the upper outlet of the cylinder head, start of opening at 70 ° C, full opening at 83 ° C

    Electrical equipment

    Rated voltage 12 V
    Battery ignition system, contact-transistor
    Ignition coil B-114B
    Distributor of ignition 23.3706
    Transistor switch TK102-A
    Spark plugs A10
    Alternator 17.3701 with integrated voltage regulator
    Starter ST230-I

    Refueling tanks

    Engine lubrication system 9.5 l
    Cooling system without radiator 21 l
    Air purifier 0.8

    Basic data for control

    The gap between valves and pushers, mm 0.23-0.28

    Oil pressure in the lubrication system at an oil temperature in the crankcase + 80 ° С
    at 1200 rpm 2.2 kgf / cm 2
    Oil temperature in the crankcase 60-90 ° С
    Liquid temperature in the cooling system, deg 80-90 ° С
    Oil consumption for waste from fuel consumption, excluding lubricant change, no more than 0.9%

    Sources:
    Automotive, motorcycle and stationary engines. Part 1. Branch catalog NIINAVTOPROM 1982
    Automotive, motorcycle and stationary engines. Part 1. Industry catalog TSNIITEIAVTOPROM 1987

    Is a child growing up in your family? Naturally, the kid enjoys decorating the flowers on the wallpaper, tearing them off the wall. You have to periodically wash the wall covering, glue the wallpaper. When the child grows up, you can repair the Zil 157 engine with your own hands, which will return the apartment to its original appearance. Modern materials make it possible to bring to life the most interesting solutions, to completely renovate the home.

    Life goes by rapidly, one day is similar to another. Do you want variety, a change of scenery? The continuous work schedule provides for constant employment in the service, you have to be at home only in the evenings. An excellent solution would be to renovate an auto-finished apartment, allowing you to bring a new note of pleasure into your life. You can contact a specialized company that offers a turnkey service.

    How to renovate your apartment or house if there is no time at all? At the moment, the opportunity to contact professionals who are ready to completely revitalize your premises is quite popular. Qualified designers develop projects, companies offer the opportunity to repair multimeters in Ukraine on a turnkey basis. You do not have to buy materials yourself, hire workers, control the process.

    1. Remove and send the flywheel - from 700 p.
    2. Replace the support bearing - from 500 p.
    3. Engine diagnostics - from 200 p.
    4. Capital repairs - from 11 000 p.
    5. Valve adjustment - 1000 p.
    6. Replacing the piston group - 14,000 p.
    7. Remove and send the radio - 1200 p.
    8. Change the water pump - 1500 p.
    9. DBC defect - 4400 p.

    Do you know what is the matter? In this article, the most popular cases are considered, why so it happens and how to fix it.

    Do you know how often and in what way to change it? Do you want to send a zero resistance filter? You don't know which brand to buy? The answers to these questions can be found in the article.

    It is difficult to find a new one, but something happens always with it. Read the article and find out how to fix the 3 most common problems with this motor. It is also described here, with what frequency it is necessary to change the oil.

    The ZIL-157 truck, which has become a symbol of the era and has been produced for thirty years, traces its history back to the early fifties of the last century.

    It was then that work was underway at the Stalin plant in Moscow to create a three-axle all-wheel drive truck intended for the army. The chief designer of the project was A. M. Krieger.

    The impetus for the start of work on the novelty was the revealed shortcomings of the ZIS-151, the main car of this class at that time. This sample served as the basic platform that embodied all the design ideas that had not previously been used.

    ZIS-151 progenitor of ZIL-157

    First of all, this affected the use of all bridges with the same track and single wheels, which significantly increased the vehicle's cross-country ability and led to a reduction in mechanical losses. In addition, the reduction in the number of wheels made it possible to dispense with the presence of only one spare wheel (located under the platform) and make the car lighter and more compact.

    When developing a new model, the tire industry was required to develop new tires that would allow the vehicle to move under reduced pressure. The task was completed, and a tire appeared with increased elasticity, obtained by reducing the number of cord plies, increasing the profile width and using inner layers of soft rubber grades.

    Of course, the new tires at low pressure had a speed limit (up to 10 km / h) and reduced wear resistance, but a decrease in ground pressure gave a noticeable increase in the vehicle's cross-country ability.

    The centralized tire pressure change system was controlled from the driver's seat and allowed pressure control while the car was moving.

    Prototype ZIS-E157 with an installed external tire pressure monitoring system

    Another advantage of this system was that it allowed the truck to continue driving with a damaged individual tire, compensating for the loss of air in it by continuous pumping. Some time after the launch of the ZIL-157 into mass production, the pumping system was changed from an external circuit to a circuit on the inside of the wheel, thereby increasing the reliability of the car as a whole.

    During the operation of the ZIS-151 trucks, traction characteristics were insufficient for towing a trailer, the engines suffered from overheating, and the fuel consumption was increased. In addition, the motor did not have the reliability satisfying consumers. This was taken into account when developing a new car, and the truck received an improved power plant.

    The new aluminum alloy head, which was installed on an in-line six-cylinder block with a displacement of 5.55 liters, allowed an increase in the compression ratio by 0.2 units. Installation complete with a new head of a modified carburetor made it possible to obtain 104 horsepower and a torque of 334 N / m from the updated engine at 2600 rpm.

    A new radiator appeared in the cooling system, the air through which was driven by a six-blade fan, thus, the problem of overheating was solved. The lubrication system has been improved by introducing a new oil pump and new design crankshaft oil seals.

    In addition, the seals in the water pump were changed and a closed-cycle crankcase ventilation scheme was arranged, the power unit was installed on a new suspension. The work done contributed to an increase in the reliability of the car, and the fuel consumption of the ZIL-157 decreased, depending on the driving conditions, by 7 - 22%.

    During the entire production period of the car, its engine was upgraded two more times. So in 1961, the power was increased to 109 horsepower and a single-plate clutch was installed instead of a two-disc unit. In 1978, a car with a motor unified for some units with a ZIL-130 engine went into production.

    A five-speed gearbox was originally installed on the car, where the fifth gear was overdrive, but after 1961 it was removed. The transfer case from the Zis-151, taken as a basis, received wear-resistant gears, new oil seals and forced engagement. The cardan drive underwent a complete overhaul, an intermediate support for the rear axle cardan was fixed on the middle axle. The casings of the drive axles were significantly reinforced, new wheel hubs and brakes were installed, the wheels were mounted on eight studs.

    In the cab of the previous model, the driver could not count on comfortable work, the landing was uncomfortable, there was no heater, and the ventilation was poor. In addition, the driver's hands were exposed to perceptible impacts from the wheels. On the new truck, the designers tried, if not to get rid of the shortcomings completely, then at least partially to improve the ergonomics of the cab and steering.

    According to official data, the car was produced without a hydraulic booster, however, there are eyewitnesses who claim that in the mid-80s a batch of cars with a factory-installed amplifier was shipped to the troops.

    To do this, it turned out, it was enough to install a heater radiator with an impeller and an additional outlet for heated air on the windshield, make high-quality seals and equip the cabin with an adjustable seat.

    Tire pressure control levers are visible on the right.

    To improve the operation of the steering, the bipod was shortened and telescopic shock absorbers were introduced into the design.

    The car could carry up to 5 tons of cargo on roads with a hard surface, and half that when driving on dirt roads. The total mass of the car reached 10.23 tons, and the mass of the trailer was 3.6 tons. The length of the car was 6684, the width was 2090 and the height was 2360 millimeters, while the size of the loading platform was 3570x2090 mm.

    The wheelbase was 4225, and the ground clearance was 310 millimeters. The front wheel track was 1775 mm, and the rear wheel track was 1750 mm. The car could accelerate to 65 kilometers per hour and consume 42 liters of gasoline per 100 kilometers (the fuel supply was enough for 510 km).

    The depth of the ford to be overcome was 85 centimeters, and the maximum slope for movement was 28 degrees.

    There were a lot of options for the army version of the machine, designed for different types of troops. The most famous of them are modifications of ZIL for multiple launch rocket launchers of the “BM” series (BM -13NM, BM-14M and BM-24), which had insignificant differences among themselves.

    Engineering services were supplied with mobile drilling rigs PBU-50 and BGM, which were used by military water supply points to search for water and drill wells or wells about fifteen meters deep. In addition, the installations were used when performing other work on the engineering support of the troops. Installations based on ZIL were distinguished by a short time to put into working position and high reliability.

    In addition to drilling rigs, engineering and sapper units were supplied with a set of bridge-building equipment, also located on the ZIL-157 chassis, and a small road bridge system MARM. The carrying capacity of such a bridge was 50 tons, and it was located on a trailer towed by a truck tractor. In addition, the sappers had several more kits for building bridges and pontoon crossings transported by ZIL.

    BM-13M (Katyusha) based on ZIL-157

    Video (click to play).

    In general, the 157 was a very popular machine among the military and is still used in some places today, and how many of them still cost in the warehouses of the Ministry of Defense is difficult to count. This speaks to how successful and reliable the design of the machine was. No wonder she is considered a legend of the domestic auto industry.

    Image - Do-it-yourself Zil 157 engine repair photo-for-site
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