The Gazelle 405 engine is an improved ZMZ-40522.10 engine, which mainly reduced the Euro 3 toxicity and increased reliability and service life.
The ZMZ-405 was also installed on trucks weighing up to 3500 kg.
The motors are designed for operation in climatic version "U2" in a temperate climate, i.e. at temperatures from -45 to + 40 degrees and humidity up to 100% at + 25 degrees.
Repair of the gazelle 405 engine begins with the removal of the engine from the car and its further disassembly.
If, while repairing the 405 gazelle engine, holes were found on the cylinder head on the cylinder walls, with cracks on the upper surface and on the ribs that support the main bearings, with holes on the jacket and crankcase, everything must be replaced with new ones.
As a result of wear, the cylinders in the cylinder head become along the length of an irregular cone, and around the circumference - an oval. The greatest wear occurs in the upper part of the cylinders against the upper compression ring, when the piston is in TDC, and the least wear occurs in the lower part, when the piston is in BDC.
When repairing the gazelle 405 engine, all cylinders in one block are adjusted to one repair size with a tolerance of + 0.036 ... + 0.072 mm from the norm. An exception is when it is necessary to remove shallow scratches on the cylinder mirror (by 0.10 mm), here only defective cylinders can be corrected.
In cases where only a limited number of pistons are available, it is recommended to calculate the nominal diameter for each cylinder based on the actual size of the piston skirt diameter intended for the given cylinder, and to machine the cylinders with the machining tolerance specified below.
Deviations from the geometrically correct shape of the cylinders should be located in the tolerance field of the dimensional group for the cylinder diameter.
Often, repairs include replacing the bushings of the countershaft bearings with standard or repair ones, of increased thickness, depending on the wear of the bore holes in the cylinder block, and subsequent boring of the inner bore of the bushings to a standard or overhaul size, depending on the wear of the countershaft bearing journals. The repair sleeves are made of an antifriction alloy (see Figure 7).
Replace standard bushings with repair ones also when they are loose or turned.
Remove the tube before installing the intermediate shaft supports. When installing the repair sleeves, make sure that the holes of the oil channels are aligned. To make boring of intermediate shaft supports in one installation. Press in the tube with anaerobic sealant.
If the intermediate shaft journals are worn out, then "grind" them under the repair size.
If the holes for the oil pump drive are worn out more than the allowable one, then the holes must be bored to the repair size for the repair bushings. The repair sleeves are made of gray cast iron with an outer diameter of 21 mm and a length: lower - 17 mm, upper - 30 mm.
Press in the repair sleeves, drill through the hole with tapered thread in the upper sleeve a through hole for the oil supply Ø 3.5 mm, entering the oil line of the cylinder block, and machine the holes in the sleeves to the nominal size. The machining of the cylinder block bore holes for bushings and bushing bores should be performed in one installation.
Before proceeding with disassembly, you should determine the modification and diagnose the engine. It will scan the electronic system of control units and show what defects and malfunctions are present.If it is not possible to determine the cause of the malfunction using diagnostics, then you cannot do without disassembling the engine.
Repair begins with the removal and subsequent disassembly of the engine. In order to remove the jerking of the motor, you need to set a certain clearance in the valves. Replacing spark plugs is indispensable.
If, in the process of disassembling the engine, scuffs, cracks or dents on the walls of the engine cylinders are found, then they will have to be replaced with new ones. It should be taken into account, that all cylinders of one block should be fitted to the same size ... The permissible size deviation should be no more than 0.036 - 0.072 from the norm.
Very often, repairing the ZMZ-405 engine involves replacing the intermediate shaft bushings with increased thickness. If the journals of the intermediate shaft of the engine are worn out, then they can be slightly sanded to the repair size. The holes for the pump drive can be repaired by boring them to repair size.
To increase the reliability and dynamism, you can tune the ZMZ-405 engine. To do this, replace the bushing on the upper head with a thicker one, for example from a Mercedes. You will feel the difference immediately.
An important and very responsible one is the repair of the 405 cylinder head of the engine. Correctly repaired head means 70% of accurate and well-coordinated engine performance ... That is why the head repair is of great importance.
After disassembling the head, be sure to rinse all parts in gasoline. Remove carbon deposits from the combustion chamber. Examine the head carefully. If there are cracks on the bridges or on the walls of the combustion chamber, then the head should be replaced with a new one.
Using a metal ruler and probes, check the integrity of the surface of the head that adjoins the block. Putting the ruler edge on the surface of the head, then across, along, measure the size of the gap. If it exceeds 0.1 mm, the head should be replaced.
Also, be sure to check the clearances between the valve pushers and the channels for the hydraulic pushers. In this case, the size of the gap should be determined as the difference between the diameters of the channel and the hydraulic pusher. The maximum allowable gap size should be 0.15 mm.
VIDEO
The ZMZ-405 engine is a powerful and reliable power unit. That is why the frequency of repairs and malfunctions is much less than that of other engine modifications. By carrying out regular preventive maintenance, timely oil change and technical inspection, you can significantly increase the resource of the ZMZ-405.
Dear specialists, we need your help in consultation! I have a gazelle engine 405 euros 2 2006. There were pistons B, I put D and the repair rings were set, adjusted the gap. I went to the minder, the car began to twitch and pull badly. He found out about the rings he had put on and said that the engine block now needs to be bored. Is this true or does he want to earn extra money? Give advice!
ring clearance should always be checked. go to another mechanic. fill out the profile and teammates will respond
Yes, there is a special here, so he considers himself no longer going to him. He said that if we set the standard, then the gap will be large and therefore he put the repair rings, though he adjusted the gap to a minimum almost all day. Does it mean only capital now? A month ago, I measured the compression was 10 everywhere.
And how much did you drive after measuring the compression? What is she like now?
And how much did you drive after measuring the compression? What is she like now?
Approximately 5000 km of compression has not yet been measured, it seems to be running normally, although it does not accelerate more than 105. What should I do in his queue, I’ll call otkazyvalsya or don’t even know! I will try to measure and write not all of us measure compression. Post has been editedlex-69: 04 September 2012 - 15:38
The guys took block 40522 for renovation, I want to put myself.
Post has been editedSplav61: 01 January 2014 - 18:02
The guys took block 40522 for renovation, I want to put myself.
From the factory, sometimes I came across such that there were separate groups. If you sweep the honing, measure it with an internal gage and put group B. And I wonder how you were going to grind the hundredths?
From the factory, sometimes I came across such that there were separate groups.
Well, I don’t know what kind of workers, there were cars from the store,
That's just what I wanted to hear advice on whether the blocks are sharpened for groups or only for repair sizes.
They tell me that before boring you need to provide them with a piston and they will already grind the block under them. (In mechanics, so.)
I wanted to hear advice whether the blocks are sharpened for groups or only for repair sizes.
And such a question I can measure the cylinder with a vernier caliper, should it show 95.5 mm?
Measurement is made on the un-worn part of the cylinder, in the area of the upper edge of the block.
Clean all mating surfaces of the block from gaskets adhered and torn during disassembly.
Fasten the cylinder block to the stand, carefully inspect the cylinder mirror, if necessary, remove the unworn belt over the upper compression ring with a scraper. Metal should be removed flush with the worn surface of the cylinder.
Unscrew oil plugs and blow out all oil passages with compressed air. Screw the plugs back into place.
Assemble the crankshaft To do this, unscrew the plugs of the dirt traps of the connecting rod journals and remove deposits from them, rinse and blow out with air, put the plugs in place, tighten them to a torque of 37.51 Nm (3.8.5.2 kgcm). For reliable locking on the threads of the plugs, apply an anaerobic sealant "Stopper-9".
Check the condition of the working surfaces of the crankshaft. No nicks, scuffs or other external defects are allowed.
Wipe the bed with a napkin under the liners in the block and in the main bearing caps.
Install the upper main bearing shells (with grooves and holes) in the block bed, and the lower ones in the cap bed (without grooves), wipe the shells with a napkin and lubricate them with engine oil.
Wipe the crankshaft main and connecting rod journals with a napkin, lubricate them with clean oil and install the crankshaft in the cylinder block.
Lubricate and install the thrust bearing half washers:
- upper - in the grooves of the third bed with an antifriction layer with grooves to the crankshaft cheek;
- the lower ones - together with the third main bearing cover.The protrusions of the lower half washers must fit into the grooves of the cover;
Install the caps of the remaining bearings on the corresponding main journals, screw in and tighten the bolts securing the main bearing caps to a torque of 98. 107.9 Nm (10.11 kgcm).
On the lower surfaces 1, 2 and 4 of the main covers, their serial numbers are engraved. On the lower surface of the cover of the third main bearing there is a threaded hole for fastening the holder of the oil pump, and on the side surfaces there are grooves and grooves for installing the half washers. The main bearing caps are installed according to their numbering, orienting themselves so that the grooves for the insert mustache in the cap and the block are located on one side.
Turn the crankshaft, turning it should be free with little effort.
Check the axial clearance of the crankshaft (Figure 1), which should be no more than 0.36 mm. For a worn crankshaft and thrust bearing half washers, the clearance is 0.06 ... 0.27 mm. If the axial clearance of the maximum permissible value is exceeded, replace the thrust washers with new ones and measure the axial clearance again. If, when measured, it turns out to be more than 0.36 mm, replace the crankshaft.
Take an oil seal holder with an oil seal of the rear end of the crankshaft, check the suitability of the oil seal for further work. If the oil seal has worn lips or loosely covers the crankshaft flange, replace it with a new one. It is recommended to press the stuffing box into the stuffing box using a mandrel. The oil seal should be installed with the boot outward of the engine, the working edge, covered by the spring, inward. Before pressing, apply Litol-24 grease to the outer surface of the gland to facilitate pressing.
Fill the ⅔ cavity between the working edge and the boot of the rubber cuff with CIATIM-221 grease, install and fix the oil seal holder with the gasket to the cylinder block.
Install the flywheel to the rear end of the crankshaft, aligning the flywheel pin hole with the dowel pin pressed into the crankshaft flange.
Install the flywheel bolt washer, screw in and tighten the bolts to 70.6. 78.4 Nm (7.2-8.0 kgcm).
Press spacer sleeve and bearing into flywheel seat. Press in the bearing by applying force to the outer ring. Pressing on the inner ring will damage the bearing.
Next, we collect the connecting rod-piston group - article "Subassembly of the connecting rod-piston group of the engine".
Fasten the holder to the oil pump.
Place the oil pump with gasket on the cylinder block mating face and secure.
Cut off the protruding ends of the chain cover gaskets and the gland seal gaskets protruding above the plane of the block, chain cover and gland holder.
Install and secure the oil sump with gasket and clutch crankcase booster.
Lubricate the intermediate shaft bushings with engine oil, install the key in the groove at the end of the intermediate shaft and install the intermediate shaft in the cylinder block.
Screw the two bolts into the front intermediate shaft flange. Install the gear with the nut on the rear end of the shaft, aligning the keyway of the gear with the key, and rotating the intermediate shaft using two bolts, tighten the gear nut until it stops.
Install and secure the intermediate shaft flange.
Lubricate the oil pump drive shaft and gear teeth with engine oil and insert the shaft into the hole of the block until the gear wheels of the oil pump drive and the intermediate shaft engage. Insert the hexagonal shaft of the oil pump drive into the hole of the bushing of the drive shaft, so that it fits into the hexagonal hole of the oil pump shaft.
Install and secure the oil pump drive cover with gasket.
Check the ease of rotation of the intermediate shaft. The shaft should rotate freely without binding.
Once the Gorky Automobile Plant equipped its cars with engines of its own production, but since the beginning of the 60s of the last century, the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant has been mainly engaged in the production of engines for GAZ cars.
All engines installed on Gazelle cars are quite reliable, although flaws can be found in any car engine. Each ICE model has its own specific resource, and after a certain number of kilometers traveled, the engine has to be repaired. What are the features in the repair of this or that engine, we will consider in this article, at the same time we will pay attention to the weaknesses inherent in each engine model.
The 8-valve four-cylinder ZMZ 402 engine is the "oldest" of the entire line of engines ever installed on a commercial vehicle. At first, this power unit was completed with the Volga GAZ-2410, and the prototype of the internal combustion engine is the ZMZ 24d engine; it was installed on the very first GAZ 24 cars in 1970.
On the Volga, the ZMZ 402 proved to be very good, before the overhaul, on average, the engine took care of from 180 to 250 thousand km under the condition of normal operation. On "Gazelles" the resource of such an engine is less, and the not fully thought out cooling system of the internal combustion engine is largely to blame.
oil leak from the rear crankshaft oil seal;
occurrence of piston rings, as a result, increased oil consumption;
burnout of the block head gasket.
There is another very unpleasant defect inherent in 402 motors - seats fall out from under the valves in the block head. As a rule, a depressed seat is shattered by a valve, and debris is scattered across all cylinders. As a result, it is necessary to change not only the cylinder head, but also the piston group itself.
Due to frequent overheating on the engine, it is necessary to change the head gasket, while the surface of the cylinder head is deformed, which has to be milled. After one or two milling, the block head becomes too thin and has to be replaced.
A stuffing box is installed on the rear main gland of the ZMZ 402, it starts to let oil through quickly enough, on some engines oil leaks even on new engines. Oil consumption occurs for unknown reasons - even if it does not flow, and the internal combustion engine does not smoke, the oil still disappears somewhere. But the engines of the 402 series have undeniable advantages - ICEs are very easy to repair, spare parts for them are inexpensive and are always available in stores.
Engines ZMZ 406 on "Gazelle" - carburetor, with an electronic ignition system. Compared to the ZMZ 402, these engines "got accustomed" to a commercial vehicle better, but the problem with the cooling system has not been solved here either. Gazelle drivers are trying to take all measures to avoid overheating, one of such solutions is the installation of a more voluminous three-row cooling radiator.
The ZMZ 4063.10 engine has a long resource, before overhaul during normal operation (without overheating), the motor can easily travel 250-300 thousand km. Current repair of the internal combustion engine is also required, basically it is necessary to change:
timing chains, they are usually enough for 70-80 thousand km, change as a set - two chains, shoes, dampers, sprockets;
piston rings, replacement is often required for about 150 thousand km.
Engine repair on a Gazelle with a 406th power unit is often done in car services, not all drivers can do the work with their own hands - the internal combustion engine has a more complex design.
Structurally, the ZMZ 405 motor is very similar to the 406th, its main differences are:
fuel system with distributed injection instead of the carburetor on the ZMZ 406;
increased cylinder diameter (95.5 mm instead of 92 mm on the 406th internal combustion engine).
Since the motors are structurally similar to each other, all the disadvantages of the ZMZ 406 passed to the 405th "injector".Also, one of the weakest points is the timing chain, and oil also leaks from the valve cover. It should be noted that instead of aluminum steel, plastic valve covers are installed at ZMZ 405, so another problem has been added - plastic cracks from time to time.
The Ulyanovsk motor UMZ 4216 in the entire model range of "Gazel" engines is considered one of the most unsuccessful - it has many different "diseases", moreover, it does not shine with good technical characteristics. The basis of this engine is the GAZ 21 internal combustion engine, it has the same design:
aluminum block;
the lower location of the camshaft;
gear drive of the gas distribution mechanism;
it has a rocker shaft and aluminum rods.
Structurally, the UMZ 4216 and ZMZ 402 engines are very similar, therefore the Ulyanovsk ICE as a whole is an outdated design, the only innovation is a fuel system with distributed injection. Despite all the efforts of the Ulyanovsk residents to make the engine more powerful, the Gazelle with the UMZ-4216 does not drive properly, and the engine itself does not differ in reliability.
The manufacturer declared the UMP-4216 resource of 250 thousand km, but some Gazelists often have to repair the 4216 engine on the Gazelle with a mileage of 100 thousand km. The main "diseases" of the Ulyanovsk motor are approximately the same as those of the ZMZ 402, but it should be noted that oil rarely flows from the rear root seal of the UMZ 4216 internal combustion engine - instead of the stuffing box packing, a standard round rubber seal is now installed.
A common problem for all domestic engines on the Gazelle is the "throwing out" of antifreeze from the expansion tank, and as a result, boiling and overheating. First of all, to fix the problem, you should try to remove the airlock if it has formed. In order to prevent the engine from overheating, a more capacious radiator (three-row) is installed on the Gazelles, the electromagnetic clutch is changed to an electric fan, and a toggle switch for manual airflow is installed in the cab.
American turbodiesels Cummins 2.8 liters on the Gazelle began to be installed in 2010, these engines are assembled in China. Cummins has excellent technical characteristics:
good dynamics, due to the torque, the motor runs without overload;
long service life, the manufacturer declared a resource of 500 thousand km;
economical fuel consumption.
In general, the engines are really very good, but they require careful operation and proper care. First of all, Cummins does not tolerate bad fuel; low-quality diesel fuel fails injectors, which are not cheap. In the event of an oil leak, the turbine breaks down, such a breakdown also significantly "hits" the pocket of the owner of the Gazelle. Despite the declared resource, some commercial car drivers have to repair the Cummins diesel engine for 120-150 thousand km. mileage. The main reason for premature repairs is tough operation, non-compliance with the maintenance schedule.
Car owners make engine repairs on Gazelles in different ways - someone gives the car to be repaired at a car service, someone "capitalizes" the internal combustion engine with their own hands. The price of repairing a Gazelle engine largely depends on the cost of spare parts, so the amount may be different.
Of all the engines installed on the Gazelle, the most expensive to repair is Cummins - the work is more expensive, and it also has expensive spare parts. The ZMZ 402 overhaul is the cheapest cost - the parts are relatively inexpensive, the motor is very simple in design, so car owners often repair it with their own hands. The cost of repairing the ZMZ 406 and ZMZ 405 is average, and these motors have the least complaints among all the power units installed on the Gazelle.
VIDEO
The engine must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt before disassembly.It is recommended to disassemble and assemble the engine on a stand that allows the engine to be installed in positions that provide free access to all parts during disassembly and assembly.
Disassembly and assembly of motors must be done with tools of the appropriate size (wrenches, pullers, accessories), the working surface of which must be in good condition.
With an individual repair method, parts suitable for further work must be installed in their original places. To do this, parts such as pistons, piston pins, piston rings, connecting rods, liners, valves, hydraulic pushers, etc. , or stack them on racks with numbered compartments, in the order corresponding to their location on the engine.
With an impersonal method of repairing engines, it must be remembered that the connecting rod caps with connecting rods, the main bearing caps with the cylinder block, the camshaft bearing caps with the cylinder head are processed assembled, and therefore cannot be dismantled. The crankshaft, flywheel and clutch are balanced separately at the factory, so they are interchangeable. The clutch housing is machined separately from the cylinder block and is also interchangeable. In hydraulic tensioners, dismantling of the housing with a plunger is not allowed.
It is recommended to disassemble the engine in the following order:
- remove the clutch release plug;
- remove the gearbox from the engine;
- remove the fan; - remove the clutch housing and starter;
- install the engine on a stand for disassembly;
- loosen the bolts of the coolant pump pulley;
- loosen the tension roller mounting bolt;
- loosen the belt tension by unscrewing the tension roller movement bolt, remove the belt;
- unscrew the bolts securing the coolant pump pulley, remove the pulley, the pulley reflector;
- remove the wires with lugs from the spark plugs, unscrew the plugs;
- disconnect the high voltage wires from the connectors of the ignition coils, remove the wires complete with lugs;
- unscrew the union nuts from the fittings of the inlet pipe and the exhaust manifold, remove the recirculation pipe;
- unscrew the valve cover fastening bolts, remove the valve cover assembly with ignition coils, bolts, brackets and washers;
- remove the fuel line from the fuel pump to the fuel fine filter;
- remove the front cover of the cylinder head;
- remove the upper and middle chain dampers;
- remove the cover with the gasket of the upper hydraulic chain tensioner;
- unscrew the bolt securing the intake camshaft sprocket, remove the eccentric and sprocket;
- remove the drive chain from the camshaft sprockets;
- remove the sprocket from the exhaust camshaft;
- unscrew the bolts securing the camshaft covers, remove the covers, thrust flanges;
- remove the camshafts;
- remove the hydraulic pushers using a suction cup or a magnet, arrange them in the order of the cylinder numbering;
- loosen the screws of the hose clamps for the heating of the intake tract, remove the hoses from the fittings;
- loosen the clamping bolt of the generator upper bracket;
- unscrew the nut of the bolt fastening the generator to the upper bracket, remove the bolt, bushing; - unscrew the nut of the bolt fastening the generator to the lower bracket, remove the generator;
- remove the hoses of the recirculation system from the fittings of the carburetor, thermal vacuum switch, recirculation valve;
- loosen the screw of the fuel line pipe clamp on the carburetor union, remove the hose from the union;
- unscrew the nuts securing the carburetor, remove the washers, carburetor, gaskets, spacer;
- unscrew the nuts securing the recirculation valve, remove the washers, valve, gasket;
- unscrew the bolt securing the fine fuel filter, remove the filter assembly with fuel pipes;
- unscrew the thermal vacuum switch;
- unscrew the nuts securing the inlet pipe, remove the washers of the inlet pipe, the gasket;
- unscrew the nuts securing the exhaust manifold, remove the washers, exhaust manifold, gaskets;
- loosen the clamps of the thermostat housing hose;
- unscrew the screws securing the thermostat housing, remove the housing, the gasket;
- unscrew the fitting of the oil pressure sensors;
- unscrew the bolts securing the cylinder head, remove the bolts with washers; - remove the cylinder head;
- using the tool, dismantle the valve springs. In order for the valve spring plate to come off the crackers, you need to lightly hit the device plate with the hammer handle after compressing the springs; - remove the valves, arrange them in the order of the cylinder numbering;
- remove the slinger caps from the guide bushings with a puller. Removing the valves is recommended when repairing the cylinder head;
- turn the engine over with the oil sump up; - unscrew the bolts securing the clutch crankcase amplifier to the block, remove the washers, amplifier;
- unscrew the bolts and nuts securing the oil sump, remove the washers, oil sump, gasket;
- unscrew the bolt securing the oil pump holder on the third main bearing cap;
- unscrew the bolts of the oil pump, remove the oil pump, the gasket, the hexagonal shaft of the oil pump drive;
- unscrew the crankshaft clamping bolt, remove the bolt, spring washer;
- using the tool, remove the crankshaft pulley;
- unscrew the bolts securing the coolant pump to the chain cover, remove the bolts with washers, coolant pump, gasket;
- unscrew the tension roller mounting bolt, remove the tension roller;
- remove the cover and gasket of the hydraulic tensioner of the first stage, remove the hydraulic tensioner;
- unscrew the synchronization sensor mounting bolt, remove the sensor;
- unscrew the screws securing the chain cover, remove the cover, lower generator bracket;
- remove the chain of the second stage of the camshaft drive from the drive sprocket of the intermediate shaft;
- loosen the bolts of the intermediate shaft sprockets, remove the sprockets, the chain;
- unscrew the bolts securing the intermediate shaft flange, remove the bolts with washers, flange;
- unscrew the bolts securing the cover of the oil pump drive, remove the cover, the gasket;
- unscrew the nut of the drive gear of the oil pump drive, remove the gear assembly with the nut;
- press out the key from the intermediate shaft;
- using a puller, remove the bushing and sprocket from the crankshaft;
- unscrew the bolt securing the shoe of the chain tensioner of the first stage of the camshaft drive, remove the shoe;
- unscrew the bolt securing the shoe of the chain tensioner of the second stage of the camshaft drive, remove the shoe;
- unscrew the extension of the shoe bolt, remove the extension;
- unscrew the bolts securing the lower chain damper, remove the damper;
- unscrew the nuts securing the caps of the first and fourth connecting rods, remove the caps of the connecting rods with inserts, remove the liners from the beds of the connecting rods;
- remove the pistons with connecting rods assembled from the first and fourth cylinders;
- install the crankshaft so that the second and third connecting rod journals are in the upper position, unscrew the nuts securing the covers of the second and third connecting rods, remove the connecting rod covers with inserts, remove the liners from the connecting rod cover beds;
- remove the pistons with connecting rods from the second and third cylinders;
- insert a slotted mandrel into the splines of the driven disk;
- unscrew in turn, in several steps, the clutch pressure plate mounting bolts, remove the disc;
- remove the clutch disc with a splined mandrel;
- loosen the flywheel mounting bolts, remove the flywheel from the pin;
- unscrew the bolts securing the back cover, remove the back cover assembly with a rubber collar;
- unscrew the bolts securing the main bearing caps, remove the bolts;
- remove the main bearing caps with a puller, the crankshaft thrust bearing half washers are upper;
- remove the crankshaft, lower half washers of the crankshaft thrust bearing;
- remove the main bearing shells from the cylinder block beds and from the main bearing caps;
- install the main bearing caps in the block according to the numbering;
- fix the main bearing caps with bolts;
- unscrew the knock sensor mounting nut, remove the washer, sensor;
- unscrew the oil filter;
- unscrew the drain cock from the cylinder block; - remove the connecting rod bearings from the connecting rods; - install the connecting rod caps on the mounting bolts, screw on the nuts;
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DAILY
ZMZ 405 and ZMZ 406 are the most common types of power units on cars of the Gazelle family. Based on operating experience, most owners speak of them as fairly reliable engines.
Nevertheless, it is worth noting that the reliability and unpretentiousness of these units are manifested only with appropriate careful operation, timely diagnostics and maintenance. The ZMZ 405 engine is a more improved version of the ZMZ 406, and since they are largely identical, their repair and maintenance, as well as typical operating faults, have much in common.
overheating of the engine (in the ZMZ 405 model, engineers partially eliminated this problem by using a thinner gasket and refining the bts channels)
wear of the hydraulic chain tensioners, a characteristic feature of which is noise in the front of the engine (we recommend not to start this problem, as it can lead to the chain breakage and its jump to the tooth)
wear of hydraulic lifters, a sign of which is a characteristic knock
The main reasons for the occurrence of malfunctions in the ZMZ 405 and ZMZ 406 engines include: factory defect, unsatisfactory quality of parts and high intensity of operation.
increased oil consumption (in cases where replacing the piston rings does not eliminate the problem and it is necessary to bore the block)
crankshaft wear characterized by a corresponding knock
low oil pressure in the system
The cost of overhaul of power units ZMZ 405 and ZMZ 406 will consist of the cost of spare parts and the cost of carrying out the corresponding work. The most common set of measures is the replacement of spare parts in the head of the block and in the engine block itself, as well as boring and honing of the block.
We recommend that you make a full range of measures for the overhaul of the power unit, but the final decision on replacement of certain spare parts and other work on overhaul of the engine after disassembly and assessment of the condition of the unit is yours. Based on the economic feasibility, it is possible to optionally approve the required amount of future work, without losses in the quality of major repairs.
Specialists of STO "OMM78-SERVICE" will ensure the quality and efficiency of the entire range of work performed on the overhaul of engines ZMZ 405 and ZMZ 406, providing a guarantee both for the repair itself and for spare parts purchased in our service.
The ZMZ 405 engine was produced by the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant. The power unit replaced the 406th motor. By and large, there is not much difference between the 405 and 406 engines. The first, in turn, was modernized and the designers took into account the shortcomings of its predecessor.
The successor to the 406th engine was the ZMZ 405 and its modifications. ZMZ 405 has high performance. This is a clean injection engine with increased power. Compared to its predecessor, the 406 had less power and a larger engine displacement. The motor received an environmental standard - Euro-3, which made it possible to sell cars abroad.
At the same time, the designers were able to eliminate a number of flaws that were found in the ZMZ 405. In the process of developing the new engine, there was an upgraded valve cover, a gas distribution mechanism, and a two-layer metal cylinder head gasket installed.
The ZMZ 405 engine has technical characteristics:
The 405 engine was equipped with a 5-speed manual transmission. The clutch was installed dry. With smudges from under the rear crankshaft oil seal, the disc usually got wet, and the unit worked malfunctioning.
In many cases, because of this, it was necessary to change the clutch disc together with the crankshaft collar.
ZMZ 4052.10 is the main motor. Used on Volga and Gazelle cars.
ZMZ 40522.10 is an analogue of 4052.10, complies with Euro-2 environmental standards. Used on Gazelle and Volga cars.
ZMZ 40524.10 is an analogue of 40522.10, complies with Euro-3 environmental standards. Used on Volga cars.
ZMZ 40525.10 is an analogue of 40522.10, complies with Euro-3 environmental standards. Used on Gazelle trucks.
ZMZ 4054.10 - turbo version 405, steel crankshaft, forged piston, intercooler, SZH 7.4, power 195 hp / 4500 rpm, torque 343 Nm / rpm. It was produced in small series, cost inadequately expensive, so the tuners preferred to install the proven Toyota 1JZ / 2JZ.
Maintenance of ZMZ 405 engines began with TO-0, which is done after a run of 2500 km. Each subsequent maintenance must be carried out every 15,000 km for petrol operation and 12,000 km for gas.
Every second maintenance requires checking systems such as the valve train, the state of the powertrain ECM, and the health of the sensors. The valve mechanism is adjusted after 50,000 km, or earlier, if necessary. Often, by 70,000, hydraulic lifters fail, which need to be changed all together, since it is not known when the working ones will fail.
The valve cover gasket is replaced every 40,000 km or when a leak forms from under it.
Many car enthusiasts ask themselves the eternal question - how much oil to pour into the engine? It is recommended to fill the 405 motor with semi-synthetic oil marked 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-40. To change the oil, you need 5.4 liters, which are poured into the power unit. As practice shows, most motorists perform motor maintenance on their own.
Since the new power unit was based on the old 406, the problems and repairs remained the same. So, the main malfunctions that occur in the internal combustion engine 405 include: frequent breakdowns of the cooling system associated with poor performance of the thermostat, triplet, floating speed and poor start-up.
It is recommended that for ZMZ 405, repairs should be carried out in the conditions of a car service, since it is not always possible to determine a breakdown. This is due to a malfunction when the ZMZ 405 starts up and stalls. In this case, the problem may be hidden in the spark plugs or the electronic engine control unit. If the malfunction is of a mechanical nature, then it is easy to fix it yourself, but if the problem is in the ECU or sensors, then you have to make a trip to the car service.
The ZMZ 405 engine turned out to be structurally simple enough, and at the same time reliable. So, the power unit is unpretentious in consumables. Car owners prefer to repair the ZMZ 405 engine on their own with their own hands. The worst modification of the power unit is the ZMZ 4054 version.
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