DIY ZMZ 4062 engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the ZMZ 4062 engine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The 406 engine replaces the outdated power unit ZMZ 402. This is a gasoline internal combustion engine. The engine of the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant was produced until 2008. At first, the power unit was produced for the purpose of installation on Gazelle 3302 class cars, but later the Gorky plant decided to mount the 406 engine on Volga vehicles.

Structurally simple and easy to maintain, the 406 engine was an excellent power unit. The increased power and reduced fuel consumption allowed the power unit to blend harmoniously into the cars. In addition to the vehicles of the Gorky Automobile Plant, the 406 engine was mounted on the UAZ.

The first generation of the 406 engine had a carburetor injection system, but with the massive arrival of the injector, it was decided to improve the engine and adapt it for distribution injection.

So, let's take a look at the technical characteristics of the 406 engine:

Also, the Volga region produced a forced engine - ZMZ 40620D. On many vehicles, the letter D means that the power unit belongs to the category of diesel engines, but in the case of our factories, the situation is different - this is the designation of power.

Consider the technical characteristics that the ZMZ 40620D engine has:

As you can see, the only difference is the horsepower. The rest of the indicators remain unchanged.

All cars were already equipped with a 5-speed manual transmission. The device of the ZMZ 406 engine is simple. Unlike its predecessor 402, this power unit had two camshafts and 16 valves. The ignition system has also been adapted. The resource of the engine has increased to 250,000 km, instead of 150,000 km.

Video (click to play).

In addition to the standard motor, there are also a number of modifications. Modified 406 engine and characteristics:

ZMZ 4061.10 - carburetor engine, SZh 8 for 76th gasoline. Used on Gazelles.
ZMZ 4062.10 - injection engine. The main modification is used on the Volga and Gazelles.
ZMZ 4063.10 - carburetor engine, SZh 9.3 for 92nd gasoline. Used on Gazelles.

The service scheme for ZMZ 406 is quite simple. Motor, unpretentious to consumables. The power unit holds 6 liters of engine oil, but only 5-5.5 liters are required for a change. The oil filter is suitable for both the Gazelle and the Volga. The recommended maintenance interval is 15,000 km. But, in order to increase the resource, it is recommended to carry out maintenance for 12,000 km if the vehicle is operated on gasoline, and after 10 thousand km for gas.

The maintenance chart is no different from the 406, and looks something like this:

1000-2500 km or TO-0: oil and oil filter change.
8000-10000 km - TO-1: replacement of oil, oil and air filter, spark plugs, high-voltage wires, fuel fuel.
25,000 km - TO-2: oil change, oil filter.
40,000 km - TO-3: oil change, oil and air filter, spark plugs, high-voltage wires, valve adjustment.
55,000 km - TO-4: changing the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, replacing the timing chain and alternator belt.
70,000 km - TO-5 and subsequent: oil and oil filter change. Every 20,000 km it changes - the fuel and air filter, the valves are adjusted. Every 50,000 km of run - replacement of the timing chain.

Routine maintenance involves replacing the lubricant and filters. Every 65-70 thousand km it is necessary to change the timing repair kit. A chain and a shoe are installed on the ZMZ 4062, as well as a drive and drive sprocket.

Every second maintenance requires checking systems such as the valve train, the state of the powertrain ECM, and the health of the sensors. The valve mechanism is adjusted after 50,000 km, or earlier, if necessary.

Often, by 70,000, hydraulic lifters fail, which need to be changed all together, since it is not known when the working ones will fail. The valve cover gasket is replaced every 40,000 km or when a leak forms from under it.

It is recommended to fill the engine with semi-synthetic oil marked 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-40. To change the oil, you need 5.4 liters, which are poured into the power unit. As practice shows, most motorists perform motor maintenance on their own.

It is recommended to repair the Gazelle 3302 (Volga) engine in a car service, but most motorists do this process on their own. The simplicity of the design allows you to carry out all the work related to the restoration of the 406 engine with your own hands.

There were no particular malfunctions or problems due to engine operation. On some vehicle models, it was noticed that injectors quickly failed. This problem can be easily eliminated by replacing all injected elements. The chain of the gas distribution mechanism can last about 200 thousand km, but it happens that it does not take care of even 100 thousand km, as you are lucky.

Overhaul of the engine should be carried out after 250,000 km of run, but with proper operation and maintenance, it may happen that the engine will withstand 300,000 km. But if the driving style of "Alya" is a racer, then the resource of the power unit is significantly reduced.

Another problem is the native factory candles ZMZ 406. The way out of the situation is simple - to replace the candles with those produced by the Brisk company.

The capital of the engine takes place in several stages. The power unit is disassembled and diagnosed. Further, the process of purchasing spare parts takes place. Consider the main positions of the overhaul of the motor.

At this stage, work is being carried out to determine the hardness and thickness of the crankshaft journals, as well as its maintainability. So, if the part can be repaired, then the size of the necks is determined and the product is given for further processing. The same goes for the cylinder block. The liners are measured, and the repair size of the pistons is determined.

Pressing the cylinder head ZMZ 406 is the process of determining the presence of cracks in the housing. All openings on the head are closed, except for the coolant inlet, into which hot water or kerosene is supplied. Next, the specialist looks for leaks and cracks. If not, then the cylinder head is sent for repair, and if there is, then all defects must be welded.

Since the part is made of aluminum, argon welding is used. In garage conditions, motorists use cold welding to seal the holes in the housing of the power unit.

The cylinder block and crankshaft are bored. If the cylinders have already come out of the oversized size, then liners with a standard diameter of 92 mm are installed. Honing is becoming characteristic of a cylinder block - this is one of the processes of boring block cylinders using a special machine. The crankshaft is bored on a special unit, using high revolutions and a stone that polishes the journals.

The cylinder head also lends itself to a bulkhead. So, valves, seats, oil seals and cuffs often change. More than once, specialists have to replace the valve guides.

Today, replacement of the camshaft is quite common. This is due to the fact that the quality of the parts is not high and the camshaft journals wear out quickly. Therefore, when carrying out cylinder head repairs, this detail should be paid special attention to. If necessary, the working surface of the block head is sanded.

Assembly operations are carried out at a special stand.All parts are installed in the same sequence as they were dismantled. So, often the oil and water pump lends itself to replacement, a new set of gaskets is installed.

Thus, the resource of the motor is restored by 80%. If we count this in kilometer terms, then the power unit will be able to serve 180-200 thousand kilometers, with normal maintenance.

Some motorists are finalizing the ZMZ 406, that is, they are tuning it. There are two ways to upgrade. The first is mechanical revision, the second is software. In the second case, the electronic engine control unit is flashed to reduce consumption or increase power characteristics. In the first case, mechanical action is required to add power.

The car enthusiast will have to replace the camshafts, install T-valves, bore the combustion chamber, mount lightweight pistons, connecting rods and a crankshaft. Also, a complete adaptation of the cylinder head will be required. The power output will be about 200 horsepower, and the weight of the motor will decrease by 16 kg.

To mount the compressor, you will have to install a reinforced crankshaft and forged pistons. Garrett 28 turbine, manifold for it, piping, intercooler, 630cc injectors, 76mm exhaust, MAP + DTV, setting in January. Turbocharging the ZMZ 406 will allow the power unit to be fired up to an unrealistic 300-400 horsepower.

In this case, it is recommended for everyone to install a drain for cooling the motor. This will help to normalize the operating temperature of the turbo engine. The Brembo E317 kit, which is designed for installation on Russian Volga cars, is perfect.

Repair and tuning of the ZMZ 406 engine can be done by hand. The only nuance is boring and honing, which require special equipment. The motor itself has high technical characteristics and the required power, therefore it is suitable for installation both on a Gazelle and on Volga class light vehicles.

Repairing the engine of any car is an extremely responsible and serious operation that requires a qualified approach. Along with this, with a great desire and appropriate knowledge, it is quite possible to cope with the conduct of the event in question on your own.
After reviewing the information below, you will get a complete picture of self-repairing a ZMZ-406 engine for GAZ, including the preparatory stage, disassembling the engine and reassembling it. The information provided will allow you to save a lot on the services of specialized workshops and be completely confident in the quality of the work performed, because each stage will be controlled by you personally.
Preparation of tools for repairing 406 engine

First of all, prepare the site for further unfolding of all elements. There should be enough space so that you can conveniently arrange the parts in order - this will make reassembling the motor much faster and easier. If there is not enough space, label the items in any other suitable way. Mark and remove wires in the same way.
Remove the hood and disassemble the wiper panel (this will be more convenient). Cover these parts with suitable material to protect the front fenders from damage. You can disassemble in any sequence convenient for you. For example, to make the engine as easy as possible to remove from the engine compartment, you can remove almost all available attachments. Most craftsmen prefer to disassemble until only a block with a piston remains. There is no need to detach the power steering pump from the hoses - you just need to tie it up or put it somewhere.
After removing the motor, inspect the area under the hood for damage and dirt. Wash everything as thoroughly as possible with a metal brush and kerosene or gasoline.

Measure the clean block and crankshaft. Boring may be necessary.If you do not have the appropriate skills, it is better to take the items to the factory or to a specialized workshop - there they will check everything and waste it to the conscience. At the same time, you can give the flywheel and the clutch basket to the specialists. In the workshop, the flywheel will be checked for runout and, if necessary, will be trimmed at the place where the clutch disc fits, after which it will be balanced in combination with the basket and the crankshaft. For our beloved GAS, this service is very useful and necessary.
Buy connecting rod and main bearings, rings and pistons by size. After removing the parts from the bore, rinse and blow them again. Armed with a 14th hexagon, unscrew the plugs of the dirt traps, thoroughly clean everything there, and then put the plugs back. If it is not possible to unscrew the plugs of the block and the head (the 8th hexagon is suitable for them in size), do not try to do this with great efforts - you can damage the threads. In such a situation, it is enough to blow through the oil channels.

so that blind threaded holes are completely free of antifreeze, oil and various contaminants.
Be sure to check the cylinder head in relation to the peculiarities of its fit directly to the block, the condition of the guides and valves, replace the valve stem seals. To grind all the available valves (and there are already 16 of them here) is not the most fun task. To make things easier for yourself, you can take the head to the factory or to a specialized workshop.
After completing all the above activities, you can start assembling the 406 engine.

Important! Wash hands and tools thoroughly before assembling the engine. Carefully inspect the condition of the nuts, bolts and studs for edge and thread breakage or other damage. Be sure to replace suspicious fasteners with new ones - you will not spend a lot of money on this, but the consequences of using low-quality fasteners may not be the most pleasant.
When tightening the fasteners, do not apply too much force - the thread breaks off extremely easily, but it is extremely difficult to recover. For additional sealing of gaskets, a sealant, as well as shellac varnish, is excellent. Pre-degrease the mating surfaces for the gaskets with a solvent or acetone, then wipe them dry.
To some, the above preparatory measures may seem too long and useless, but as a result, the already assembled engine will remain clean, and you will generally forget about leaks.
The assembly process itself consists of several technological steps. Perform each of them sequentially, and the final result in quality will not be inferior to the work of a qualified master.

Step 1. Take the engine block and lay it upside down. The dipstick tube will most likely get in the way at this stage, so it is best to install the unit on some suitable and, most importantly, reliable stand. At the same stage, you need to install the main bearings equipped with holes (here they are upper) and lubricate the whole thing with oil. Install persistent half rings on the 3rd support Crankshaft... For work, half rings that do not have antennae are used. Installation is carried out so that the anti-friction layer "looks" outward.

Assemble all the elements under the hood of the car, observing the reverse order of disassembly.
Fill in your preferred butter... Don't forget about the coolant. Make sure there are no leaks of any kind. Free the relay from the block, crank the engine with a starter - this way you fill the oil system. In the process of performing this stage, be guided by the readings of the pressure sensor.
Finally, install and connect the rest of the elements and start the car. Check for leaks. Check oil pressure, temperature and other relevant parameters. Resolve any problems found immediately.You just have to let the engine idle for several hours, periodically checking its condition, after which the engine can be taken into permanent operation, following all the requirements for running in a new machine.
Happy work!

Tarakan161 06 Sep 2012

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sergey.62 06 Sep 2012

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Tarakan161 06 Sep 2012

The clutch is advised by LUK. You can put a Sachs, but it is tougher than the Luke. On the chains, if you find it, the gold series ZMZ. They come with a set. And they have single-row sprockets, like on diesel engines.

The set of gaskets for the top cover is from Herzog. Retains oil spills well enough.
On 2 machines personally checked!

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Tarakan161 06 Sep 2012

The set of gaskets for the top cover is from Herzog. Retains oil spills well enough.
On 2 machines personally checked!

Thank you. Now I have looked at the prices for the clutch, and so VALEO is more expensive than LUK by 200-300r.

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sergey.62 06 Sep 2012

[quote name = ’Vladison’ date = ’6.9.2012, 9:28 ′ post =’ 760881 ′

But now I took the clutch at 4063 - Valeo. According to my subjective indicators, it is also a worthy design.
In our store, it is even more expensive than LUK (5.15 rubles). But I bought it for 3.6 rubles, although I also planned Luke.
All other parts I took from ZMZ in boxes (Double resource).
[/ quote]
Currently, I do not recommend taking Valeo. It is now Chinese, this is not the same Valeo as before. In my native Valeo (I only installed it before), my car really covered about 150 thousand km, although after 50 thousand it began to twitch. Therefore, I have recently been riding Luke, so far I am satisfied with the choice.

The need for overhaul of the ZMZ-4062 engine usually occurs after a run of 200,000-250,000 kilometers, depending on the conditions of its operation. By this mileage, the gaps reach values that cause a drop in power, a decrease in oil pressure in the oil line, a sharp increase in oil consumption over 0.25 liters per 100 kilometers, excessive engine smoke, increased fuel consumption, and increased knocking.

When to overhaul the ZMZ-4062 engine, remove and disassemble the engine, flush and clean its assemblies and parts.

Roughly, the gaps in the interface of the main parts of the ZMZ-4062 engine due to wear should not exceed the following values in mm:

Skirt of the piston-cylinder block - 0.25
Piston ring-groove in the piston (height) - 0.15
Piston-piston pin - 0.015
Piston ring lock - 2.5
The upper head of the connecting rod-piston pin - 0.03
Connecting rod and main bearings-journals of the crankshaft - 0.15
Valve stem-sleeve - 0.20
Camshaft journals-support in the head - 0.20
Axial play of the crankshaft - 0.36

The performance of the ZMZ-4062 engine can be restored either by replacing worn-out parts with new standard sizes, or by restoring worn-out parts and using new oversized parts associated with them. For this purpose, the release of pistons, piston rings, liners for connecting rod and main bearings of the crankshaft, guide bushings for intake and exhaust valves and a number of other parts of oversized size is provided.

To remove the ZMZ-4062 engine, the car must be installed on an inspection pit or overpass with general and portable lighting.The workplace must be equipped with a hoist or other lifting device with a lifting capacity of at least 300 kg.

The ZMZ-4062 engine must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt before disassembly. Disassembly of the engine, as well as assembly, is recommended to be carried out on a stand that allows the engine to be installed in positions that provide free access to all parts during disassembly and assembly. Disassembly and assembly of the engine must be carried out with tools of the appropriate size (wrenches, pullers, accessories), the working surface of which must be in good condition.

With an individual repair method, parts suitable for further work must be installed in their original places. To do this, parts such as pistons, piston pins, piston rings, connecting rods, liners, valves, hydraulic pushers and others, when they are removed from the engine, must be marked in any way that does not damage parts (punching, inscribing, attaching tags), or lay them on racks with numbered compartments in the order corresponding to their location on the engine.

With the impersonal method of repairing the ZMZ-4062 engine, it must be remembered that the connecting rod caps with connecting rods, the main bearing caps with the cylinder block, the camshaft bearing caps with the cylinder head are processed assembled and therefore cannot be disassembled. The crankshaft, flywheel and clutch are balanced separately at the factory, so they are interchangeable. The clutch housing is machined separately from the cylinder block and is also interchangeable. In hydraulic tensioners, dismantling of the housing with a plunger is not allowed.

The valve springs are dismantled using the ZM7814-5119 tool. In order for the valve spring plate to come off the crackers, you need to lightly hit the clamp bracket with the hammer handle with the hammer handle after compressing the springs. Remove the valves and mark them according to their location. The crankshaft pulley is removed using special tool 6999-7697.

Using the puller 6999-7683, remove the crankshaft main bearing caps together with the liners and thrust washers, checking the correct marks on the caps (1, 2, 4, 5). Remove piston rings from pistons with special tool 6999-7675. Remove retaining rings from pistons and press piston pins out of pistons using special tool 6999-7678 and thrust piece 6999-7927.

After disassembling the ZMZ-4062 engine, it is necessary to rinse all its parts, clean them of carbon deposits and resinous deposits. Clean the sealing surfaces of the cylinder block, cylinder head and covers from gaskets and sealant adhered and torn during disassembly.

Parts made of aluminum alloys (cylinder heads, pistons, covers, etc.) must not be washed in alkaline solutions, as these solutions corrode aluminum. The following solutions are recommended for cleaning engine parts ZMZ-4062 from carbon deposits.

Soda (Na2CO3), g - 18.5
Green or laundry soap, g - 10.0
Liquid glass, g - 8.5
Water, l - 1

Caustic soda (NaOH), g - 25
Soda (Na2CO3), g - 33
Green or laundry soap, g - 8.5
Liquid glass, g - 1.5
Water, l - 1

Cross section of the engine

1 - oil pan;
2 - oil intake;
3 - oil pump;
4 - oil pump drive roller;
5 - crankshaft;
6 - connecting rod;
7, 9 - driven and driving gears;
8 - drive cover;
10 - piston pin;
11 - piston;
12 - cylinder head gasket;
13 - inlet valve;

14 - intake manifold;
15 - cylinder head;
16 - intake camshaft;
17 - hydraulic pusher;
18 - exhaust camshaft;
19 - cylinder head cover;
20 - oil indicator;
21 - exhaust manifold;
22 - outlet valve;
23 - cylinder block;
24 - oil drain plug.

Placement of the main components and assemblies of the engine

1 - air hose;
2 - expansion tank of the cooling system;
3 - spark plugs;
4 - plug of the oil filler neck;
5 - vacuum brake booster;
6 - storage battery;
7 - fan casing;
8 - radiator;
9 - radiator supply hose;
10 - mass air flow sensor;
11 - air filter;
12 - starter;
13 - air temperature sensor;
14 - receiver;
15 - idle speed regulator;
16 - throttle branch pipe with a camshaft position sensor;
17 - generator;

18 - oil filter;
19 - oil pan;
20 - engine support bracket;
21 - exhaust manifold;
22 - oil pressure indicator sensor;
23 - ignition coils;
24 - oil dipstick;
25 - clutch housing;
26 - intake manifold;
27 - cylinder head cover;
28 - front cover of the cylinder head;
29 - thermostat;
30 - coolant pump pulley;
31 - crankshaft pulley;
32 - tension roller;
33 - poly V-belt;
34 - alternator pulley.

In this video, the author, Travnikov Evgeny Alexandrovich, tells his viewers about the 406 engine repair. He divides the 406 engine repair video into several steps.

Stage 1 - Troubleshooting and disassembly. In this part, the author introduces us to the structure of the 406 engine, its components, the corresponding defects (leakage from the phase sensor, moisture in the front oil seal). This repair of the ZMZ 406 engine, the video of which was presented by E.A. Travnikov, could have happened earlier, but thanks to good car oil, its condition is simply excellent, you can’t say that this engine clocked more than 300 thousand km. The author also gives a vivid example of dismantling the engine, while talking about all the details, their specifics and the reasons for the breakdown. After removing the head, it turned out that the whole problem was in the gasket, or rather, in the fact that it was frayed and passed oil.

Eugene also tells his viewers about the most important structural element - about the drive of the secondary shaft, namely about its fastening features. Shows how the indicator can be used to determine the knocks in the crankshaft.

Stage 2 - Assembly of the block. On this cycle, the author talks about the fact that after some turning work, to increase the compression ratio, 2 mm were removed from the block surface, after which the surface was sanded. Shows how the crankshaft is installed, the cover with the oil seal is installed, how the connecting rods are checked for weight, how the connecting rods are weighed over the upper head, how the pistons are balanced.

Stage 3 - Cylinder head. The video shows us that an increase in the compression ratio of the piston protrudes 2 mm from the block (so that the piston does not meet with the head, a small groove is made). The author also showed how the gasket is installed and demonstrated the installation of the guides.

In general, this set of video tutorials helps a lot in automotive practice, because thanks to them we can independently find out the causes of engine breakdowns, and more importantly, eliminate them on our own.

Start the starter (do not press the accelerator pedal) for a few seconds. Remove the negative terminal of the battery to avoid accidental sparking. Now you can detach the items you want.
After completing the work, do not forget to replace the fuel pump fuse and the terminal. Turn on the ignition and wait a few seconds, the pump will pump fuel into the system. Start the engine and check for leaks.

This system receives information from various sensors installed on the engine; the normal operation of the power and ignition units depends on it. There is an opinion that it is possible to determine a malfunction in this system only in a technical center with the help of special devices. This is not entirely true, you can find the problem yourself.

The occurrence of a malfunction is indicated by the "Check Engine" indicator on the instrument panel, which is on continuously. Each malfunction has its own code, which the system writes into memory, the task is to obtain it and determine the cause using a special table.

To find the code, look for the diagnostic connector located in the engine compartment on the right. Remove the cover from it and close contacts 10 and 12 with a copper wire. Now the control unit is in the information output mode. Sit in the driver's seat and turn on the ignition, you will see the indicator flashes. Your task is to count them.
The fault code consists of two or three digits. The number of flashes of the signaling device is equal to a digit, then a pause and the next digit.

For example, DTC 26 will be shown like this:

2 short flashes, each lasting 0.5 seconds;
A pause of 1.5 seconds, which means the transition to the next digit;
6 short flashes;
Long pause of about 4 seconds, indicating the end of the code.

The control unit starts transmitting information with code 12, which is repeated three times. This shows the serviceability of the diagnostic system. Then a malfunction code, it is also repeated three times; then - go to the next problem, if any. After listing all the codes in memory, the unit will repeat all the information until you remove the jumper from the connector. So you can take your time and check again.

After determining the DTC, look at the table (you can print it and take it with you in the glove compartment). You will immediately see what exactly is not working. If the memory is empty, only code 12 is transmitted.

Diagram of the device of the ZMZ 406 motor

The centrifugal pump (pump) on the ZMZ-406 is driven by a poly V-belt. The thermostat operates in two modes: on a cold engine (up to 70-80 ° C), the coolant moves in a small circle, bypassing the radiator, with further heating, the main valve begins to open, the radiator turns on. When the 94 ° C mark is reached, the main valve opens completely, all the liquid passes through the radiator.

The system fan is switched on from the TM-108 92-87 sensor.

Diagram of the design of the engine cooling system ZMZ 406

It should be remembered that the interior heating radiator is permanently connected to the cooling system.

Radiator for engine cooling ZMZ 406

There are many reviews of 406 engines on the Web.Opinions are very different, some cannot get enough of such a reliable and powerful engine, they have already driven 80-90 thousand kilometers on it without any problems. But there are other opinions, which describe frequent breakdowns, oil leaks and other malfunctions.

In one of the reviews, the owner writes that he often has to tow other cars on his Volga, including the heavier Gazelles. The engine pulls perfectly, there is enough power.

Video (click to play).

But he also notes the frequent failure of the control system sensors, considers the reason for the low quality of manufacture of domestic devices and advises switching to imported ones. Many owners write about muffler shots and engine starting problems. Often there are expressions "it starts up, then it doesn't", but there are reviews in which they note a good start at temperatures of -30 ° C and below. Perhaps someone got a good engine, but someone did not. Proper use and care of the engine is certainly important.