The structure consists of seven metal "rocker arms", lined up in a pyramidal manner. The largest arch holds two smaller ones, which in turn hold even smaller ones and are attached to a rubber blade. This design evenly distributes the downforce of the wiper. Slowly going out of fashion, these wipers are dropping lower in price every day, while performing their functionality very well in the warm season. The main enemy of such a janitor is snow. But it is impossible to say that in terms of their functionality these brushes are worse than frameless ones. The clamping effect of such a structure loses its properties over time. Therefore, it is better to change the frame of the brushes after a few years.
The "rocker arm" system of this type of wipers is replaced by a thin metal plate extending through the entire length of the brush. She is a frame, despite the so-called frameless classification. They tolerate snow better, but this design has a minus - the distribution of downforce is worse than that of the "rocker arms". In the cold, there is a shrinking effect. The advantages of these brushes over the previous ones can be called design. Although the taste and color as they say….
They repeat the classic summer design, but all of its moving parts are hidden under a rubber cover. But for the summer, these brushes are not very suitable, since the casing provokes too high windage. If the speed is above 90 km. per hour, the brushes begin to move away from the glass. As much as such brushes are good in winter precipitation, they are just as bad in summer.
These brushes are the latest development for today. Metal "rocker arms" here replace three plastic arches, they also act as a winter cover, thereby allowing these wipers to be called hybrid. Another distinctive feature of these wipers is their improved aerodynamics. The headwind increases the downforce. Although in such a design there is something to freeze.
In conclusion, we can say that in winter it is better to use winter wipers, and for summer, any, except winter ones, are suitable. It's up to you to choose. In any case, new wipers, no matter what design, are better than those that do not perform their functions at all.
VIDEO
4. Disconnect the wiper motor chip.
5. Then, using the "10" wrench, unscrew the nut of the left ... ... then the right attachment of the cleaner to the car, ...
6. Unscrew the bolt securing the wiper motor bracket.
7. Then remove the trapezoid from the studs and remove it from the duct housing.
8. Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the nut holding the crank.
9. Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the 3 bolts holding the engine on the bracket ... ... take it off.
Good evening everyone. Immediately to the point - from the moment of purchase, one way or another, the wiper did not really suit, which I did not do with it - I bought frameless brushes, changed 3 pairs of frame champions, changed the leashes (it turned out in vain - at speed these leashes scratched the glass with a spoiler - I had to bend it) , I drove the leashes from the viburnum (the passenger had to be shortened) - but do not care, even on wet glass, the brushes literally die on the way back. On the second car - Priora - even on dry glass it was as if the glass had been smeared with oil and didn't care what kind of brushes. After going through all the options - I began to sin on the trapezoid, calling the atom store - I found out there are trapeziums:
Old sample. - said not in stock and you are unlikely to find it. New sample. - available - 2 800r. Priorovsky. - also there - 2,000 rubles.
To the question of how to find out which one I got the answer - only by removing and for a long time explained about some 4 hairpins (old) and 2 hairpins (new). Today I decided to sort out the trapezoid and, using the advice from the forum (put it in the upper position), took off the trapezoid without any problems, brought it home - checked the motor, closed contacts 4 and 1 from this circuit https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ ext / 3205 / vaz / 2110-zhiguli / images / 19-08-07.jpg
The motor seemed to be spinning normally, there was a lot of grease in the reducer, but in the plastic bushings and bushings there were no shafts with splines and they moved a little stiffly - but when parsing, as they had been warned, I broke these fucking plastics.
T to ride without wipers is not an option, but finding a repair kit is difficult sobsno I am inclined to the option of replacing the trapezium with a prior's one. Questions:
1) What type of trapezoid do I have, old or new? number 2110 - 5205015-20 (493.5205100) 2003 car photo https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2729/i117/1006/5a/7165a4b17f38.jpg 2) Will the prior's fit? the seller said that there is a problem with the connector. if it's not difficult to explain what needs to be soldered there? If it is not difficult to explain according to the principle - 1 cantakt of a tenth one is 3 cantakts of a prior's, 2 tenths - 4 of a prior's, etc. Scheme 2110 - https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3205/vaz/2110-zhiguli/images/19-08-07.jpg Prior scheme - https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3205/vaz/2170-priora/images/2526.jpg 3) what other pitfalls during installation can there be?
Thanks in advance for your answers.
PS: while I was typing, I also created a topic about a trapezoid :))
UPD: promised photo report: One day in the morning I went to the store for a trapeze, there were 2 trapezoids - a tenth one for 2800 and a prior for 2000, the difference finally defeated the unwillingness to work on a collective farm with a connector.
Judging by the photo, and the absence of any pins and the need for a couple of sawing, I realized that I have a new trapezoid. Here is a comparison with Priorov's:
Differences - the diameter of the slots for the wipers is larger (the decimal ones stand up anyway without problems)
it seems like the radius of the crank of the motor is less (which did not please, and as it turned out later, the stroke of the wipers is less than a tenth - just like that of the priors)
Another connector (although I was scared in vain - the colors of the wires match, and I stupidly matched them in color) Photo of the connector
Another diameter of the hole for the shaft, although I think the old motor will easily fit on the prioro - trapezoid, photo:
Sobsno work: Removing the frill, and I lower the hemorrhage with the washer nozzle tube (unscrew more than 10 self-tapping screws to disconnect the tube from the tee - that’s still hemorrhagic). By the way, in my murzilka it was written - "Take the coolant reservoir and REMOVE the right soundproof pad" Fuck there, I had a stove hose going through it: Photo:
Installation - as you know, the most hemorrhagic place near the stove, you can squeeze it only in a certain position, to find this position I used 2 wiring and a small 12V battery (you can use a worker, but I was afraid to close 70 Ah Akum, because it is inconvenient to poke the wiring at the same time holding the trapezoid in the air, little Akum, all the same, I briefed a little)
It is necessary to catch the position by closing the MASS to the black wire, and PLUS to the blue wire of the motor block.
But all the same, the trapezoid did not fit in any position, swearing, I just pressed the trapezoid on the stove body and carefully put it there.
Photo of the hemorrhoid place itself:
How I solved the problem with the shoe: Ideally, you need to take the block from the old motor and re-solder the wiring, but there was little time and the seller said that if you cut off the block, we won't take it back if anything (which is logical). I TEMPORARILY decided to make the adapter wiring, photo:
And so I connected: I emphasize that this is a temporary measure, because this collective farm with wires is not very reliable, given that a lot of water gets there, but there was little time and everything changed in street conditions.
Having installed the whole thing, it is imperative to check - personally, I still confused the wiring and I had 2 speed instead of 1, rearranging the blue and gray wires in some places everything returned to normal.
Also, I already had Kalinovskie leashes (there were no prior leashes anywhere, but I wanted it exactly for a wide slot and with a massive part of the fastening, the driver's one, in principle, stood up normally, but the passenger had to be sawed off and riveted the fastener from Samara. And on the driver's leash of the viburnum there is a LARGE hook, and it is difficult to find a normal adapter under the nevo so that it does not dangle. Also, the sawed-off passenger leash IMHO has a strong pressure, apparently the spring was designed for a long leash, it will be necessary to put it loosely. And yet, if you put the passenger on a viburnum leash (and I think the priors too) on the old narrow splines, it will rest against the frill, even with the sealing rubber bands removed - you need to grind it down on emery - in short, it’s still a cut. In short, with leashes - the ideal of Priorovskie without a spoiler.
Result: The wipers move smoothly without jamming and backlash, and smart enough, the passenger leash slows down a little, but this is IMHO because of the spring. But the stroke, as expected, decreased and now either the wiper in the middle of the glass, or a dead zone of 10 cm (the owners of the Prior are familiar with this) - the assumption about the strongly curved crank was confirmed - it should be straightened ideally - until he found the middle position and put it off until the weekend in the country. Photo:
The design of the wiper on the VAZ 2110 is quite reliable and during normal operation the motor and the trapezium itself can safely retreat all 300,000 km, which has been proven by the personal experience of many owners. But there are also exceptions to the rule.
It often happens that the slots are bypassed or the structure of the trapezoid simply breaks down. If you have such problems, then the repair procedure will be discussed below.
To replace all parts of the wiper, we need the following tool:
flat and Phillips screwdriver
end head 10 mm
ratchet handle
To do this work, the first step is to complete some preparatory steps, namely:
Remove the windshield cover (frill)
Remove the insulation and seal under the hood
Disconnect one end of the expansion tank rubber and lay it to the side
The video guide below was recorded specifically for this site in order to visually demonstrate the entire repair. I hope that everything is shown in an accessible and understandable way, so that even a beginner can figure it out.
If you have any questions or problems while reviewing the video, you can contact me in the comments under the video on my YouTube channel. Well, below we will consider this repair in its usual form.
When all the preparatory points are done, then everything will look something like this. Above, the arrows show the attachment points of the two nuts:
It is necessary to unscrew them, of course.
After that, we disconnect the expansion tank fastening clamp and lifting it slightly upwards, move it to the side in order to gain access to the third trapezoid fastening nut.
After that, the nut can be unscrewed, it is practically at the very bottom:
After you have dealt with this, you can gently turn the trapezoid, remove it from the left side, slightly bending to the side the metal frame below the windshield ( very little effort is needed - it makes no sense to talk about any real bending! )
And we lift it almost to the end to take out:
And all that remains is to disconnect the power plug:
And now you can finally remove the entire structure of the trapezoid and the wiper motor from the bur. If it is necessary to disconnect and replace one motor, then, in principle, there will be no difficulties with this - it is enough to unscrew it and replace it.
Installation of all removed parts is carried out in the reverse order. It should be said about the prices of these spare parts. The cost of a trapezoid assembled with a motor on a VAZ 2110 is about 2000-3000 rubles from the manufacturer Avtovaz. Chinese counterparts are about 2,000 rubles.
Azamat Khagazheev, 26 years old I drive a Lada 2110 Shagdi Chegem, Russia
It all started from the moment of buying a car when I immediately noticed the defective work of the wipers: 1) barely barely trudged; 2) the intermittent mode did not work; 3) after turning off the wipers remained in place and did not return. The solution to the problem began with a search on the Internet for the causes and ways to eliminate them. In general, I will not go around the bush. The problem turned out to be complex and, accordingly, it was necessary to solve it in a complex way: 1) After reading in my favorite site lada2111.rf / tuning-kapota ... or-dvorniki-vaz-2110.html about the possibility of replacing the engine with VW, I decided to do so. I ordered a wiper motor on the Internet (cat.no. -1009550011). Price 1987r. Despite the fact that the stores offered a native 10-bit for 2000r.
2) Intermittent mode did not work because of the relay. This bastard clicked and because of this he was not included in the circle of suspects. I went to the store, bought it, put it on and voila - it worked, but ... he just twisted without a pause between strokes, and this is already 100% due to the motor (wear of the contact tracks, etc.). 3) After removing the trapezoid, it turned out that I had it of an old model (a lever with a large hole). I bought a new model of Priorovskie. Be sure to tell the seller when buying to give the latest model with a small hole in the lever. The motor is attached to it 180 ^. 4) Since the connection chips for the teal and the wows are different, it is necessary to stir up its connection. The dmitric1 entry helped. A separate "Thank you" to him. Fortunately, I found wires with “dads” in my garage, which kept the wires on the old motor.
But the connection in the new motor, I honestly turned out to be "collective farm", but until I find my own chip, let it go for a walk)
From myself: The manual says that when you remove the lever, you need to mark its location, but we put a new one))) The solution is very simple - after fixing the motor to the trapezium (without washers), we put the lever as it is convenient for him. Then we carry it, connect it to the machine, turn it on and watch how it turns. must scroll counterclockwise from the beginning (view from the passenger compartment). If not, then turn the lever 180 and look again. And yet ... in order to assemble this entire structure, it is necessary that the trapezium levers are in the most compact position possible. To do this, we connect to the car, turn on the wipers and turn off the ignition in the place where the levers look in the same plane. after installation, it will return to its original position by itself. As for the leashes, they are suitable, the only thing there is a nut for 13 (complete with a trapezoid). But it's not a problem). When I collected everything, I got into the car and turned on the wipers, I almost jumped ... well, they just became mad))) There is no downpour to the third speed) I'm happy as an elephant)
He is responsible for the rotation of the wipers with different intensities. A gearbox is located in the electric motor, and the motor itself operates by supplying direct current. In the anchor of the engine there are three built-in brushes that provide three modes of wiper operation - fast, slow and paused. Although it is believed that the VAZ 2110 has only two brush speeds
This is a steering column switch, a wiper relay, which allows you to activate the mode of movement of the brushes intermittently. Plus, don't forget about the switch. The entire electrical system is wired through a bimetallic, heat-resistant fuse. It is important to note that both relays and fuse F5 are in the mounting block, and the bimetallic fuse and switch are in the motor gearbox.
At the same time, the size of the wipers on the VAZ 2110 may be different, which we will talk about later. They differ in shape, material of manufacture, device
An important component, which, alas, often breaks down at the top ten
At some point, the car owner may notice that his wipers are not working. This can manifest itself in their complete stop or work with a creak.
First of all, look for the reason in the electric motor. But remember that there are also mechanical problems.
The most popular mechanical wipers failures:
When the cleaners are turned on, the sound of the motor can be heard, but the brushes do not move or twitch slightly. Probably, the crank nut to the gearbox axle lost its grip or was completely unscrewed.
Asynchronous operation of the wipers indicates a problem with the leash. Again, check the lock nut. When tightening the nut, do not forget to put the brushes in the correct position.
As for the problems with the electrical component, they manifest themselves as follows:
The janitor moves very slowly, stops, then starts working again, does not stubbornly go to the lower position. Check the limit switch. By bending the contacts, it is adjusted in this way. If such a measure has not borne fruit, replace the entire VAZ 2110 wiper motor assembly, since the gearbox is built-in;
You have switched on intermittent operation, but the brushes are running non-stop. Here the problem lies in the relay, which must be replaced. If, when you turn on the device, you do not hear the sound from the rotation of the motor armature, then the relay is 100% to blame. If not, then check for burning and oxidation on the contacts;
When choosing any mode, only the clicking of the thermal fuse is heard. In this case, the anchor and brushes are in place. Check if the brushes are frozen because of the frost, so they do not move. Either fuse F5 has blown, or the anchor has burned out;
The electric motor does not turn on, although the fuses are OK. Check the quality of your contacts. This is often the cause of a hanging brush or a burnt out anchor.
In practice, repairing wipers on a VAZ 2110 is not at all difficult if you have at least elementary experience in working with a car and its electrical component.
Unscrew the fixing nut
First, let's figure out how to remove the wipers on the VAZ 2110. The design provides for several fasteners, by unscrewing which, you can easily remove the brushes themselves.
But with the disassembly of the wiper assembly, everything is a little more complicated. It is disassembled as follows.
Remove the dashboard.
On the left side, find the relay that is attached to the body. If it is broken, there is no point in repairing it. Just install a new relay.
Next, check the condition of the fuse, which is responsible for the operation of the wiper drive.
Disassemble the steering column to inspect the switch status. If it has damaged insulation or other damage, replace the unit.
Unscrew the electric motor from the body, test it in action. If the breakdown is not serious, it can be repaired. It is better to just replace it together with the relay.
Check the drive. It is not uncommon for a pulley to break on it, because of which the device has to be changed to a new one.
Make sure the trapezoid is working properly. It may be necessary to replace the trapezoid of the wipers with a VAZ 2110, if during the operation of the car the lubrication of the device has deteriorated, all kinds of debris and water have got there. If the lubrication does not work properly, the plastic bushings of the hinges will wear out, hence backlash will arise and the resistance will increase during the operation of the device. The very same trapezium serves to transfer the force from the electric motor to the wiper arms.
Most of the car owners of the domestic “ten” are used to changing worn-out and out-of-order windshield wipers for similar ones.
This often happens because they do not see alternatives, are not familiar with them.
For all VAZ 2110 models, regardless of the year of manufacture, the installation of wipers for the driver's and passenger's sides of the same size - 20 inches - is provided. The length of the brush is 508 millimeters.
But this size can be increased to 530 mm ... It is not recommended to put it anymore, because this way the wiper will not be able to work efficiently, and the drive will simply not be able to cope with the load. As a result, too long brushes cause creaking and jerky work. Plus, do not count on the long service life of the wiper mechanisms.
Native windshield wipers for the "dozen" are pretty good. But there are more expensive, but also more highly efficient, quality devices.
Today it is fashionable to use frameless wipers, especially from Bosch. Their advantages are compactness and a special, reliable leash mechanism.
But as practice shows, on the windshield of the VAZ 2110, like other VAZ models, they do not look very beautiful, because the fasteners on the leash are massive. Although if you refine them a little, you get a very good result.
It is easy to modify or replace the wipers. To do this, you need to take several sequential steps:
Disconnect the negative wire from the battery;
Pull the wiper towards you;
Remove the existing brushes;
If there is a decorative overlay, remove it;
Unscrew the mounting bolt, thereby dismantling the old wiper;
Compare the sizes of the old and new cleaner;
Ideally, the new device should not exceed the old one by more than 20 millimeters;
Reverse the assembly procedure.
Video (click to play).
As you can see, changing the wipers is not difficult. But with the repair procedure, everything is somewhat different. But following the instructions, even an inexperienced owner of a VAZ 2110 can do everything with his own hands.