DIY nissan almera n16 internal combustion engine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a nissan almera n16 internal combustion engine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Nissan - Almera N16. Overhaul of the 1.6 liter engine. Piston rings, caps, chain tensioner. Throttle training.

The principle of operation with a piston group is practically the same for all engines, the only differences are in the design.

The car was purchased in Moscow, at a car dealership. It is unlikely that the mileage was true, it turned out after 300 km of run - the oil level dropped by 1 liter.

Initially, it was decided to confine itself to replacing the valve stem seals without removing the block head. Of course, the owner of the car was warned that with such a consumption of oil, this would not change anything, which was later revealed, but. “Whoever pays calls the tune.” All the more, it was initially known about the recall of cars by Nissan due to increased oil consumption due to a defect in the oil scraper rings.

The age-old question regarding spare parts: "Where to buy, which manufacturer to choose, how not to be mistaken in compatibility?" The first two questions are rhetorical, there are too many manufacturers on the market - choose the "golden" mean (not the cheapest - not the most expensive).

The third is more difficult, here in any case you will need the advice of a specialist, preferably the person who will deal with the bulkhead of the engine of your car. Either, if you are “familiar” with working on the Internet with electronic spare parts catalogs, as well as familiar with Autodata, or Vivid Workshop Data, there will be no difficulties. Based on personal experience, we recommend purchasing the original from trusted suppliers.

Spare parts for reasons of “economy” were bought in Moscow on the “Yuzhny Port” market - it turned out cheaper than in “Exist” one and a half times, or even two times. The lion's share of the costs fell on the piston group (nominal size): pistons with pins and retaining rings, and piston rings. Required: gaskets (valve cover, cylinder head (cylinder head); spark plug well seals; connecting rod bearings (standard). It is advisable to replace the chain tensioner, because relying on the experience of replacing the piston in the previous 2 Nissan (N15), the old tensioner installed could not stand even 200 km of run, the chain began to “rattle”, especially on an unheated engine.

Video (click to play).

A few words about the convenience of working with the QG engine, I will make a reservation right away, it is absent - there is very little space in the engine compartment, this is especially evident when removing the cylinder head, without pneumatics (end pneumatic ratchet 12 or 38) - it takes a lot of time. We drain all liquids (oil, antifreeze from the block). The cork is here.

We turn off the intake pipe. Few words. I do not advise trying to unscrew without a gas burner, otherwise prepare good drills and taps right away. But if the tap breaks off in the manifold, you have a direct path to a plant with a serious tool base. We have had such cases, it is better, as the saying goes: “to lose a day - then fly in five minutes”.

With the crankcase - nothing new (except for 2 cleverly hidden nuts behind the clutch housing cover) - we stupidly unscrew all the bolts.

If the chain does not need to be changed, we do not turn off the pump pulley, the side engine cushion, as well as the front chain cover, we focus on the mark of the crankshaft pulley of the ancillary unit drive. Replacing the chain on such motors is a question requiring separate consideration, not boring, to put it mildly, this is a matter. Chains came across not with yellow link plates, but dark blue, and the crankshaft had to be rotated 10 circles until all the marks on the knee and camshafts coincide (the yellow links on the camshafts should coincide with the transverse risk of the intake pulley, there is a paint mark on the exhaust pulley).

As per Vivid Workshop's guidance, the 2.5mm adjustable intake pulley should be locked.pin, and for this it must be turned against an hour. arrows until the holes in the pulley and camshaft coincide (see fig.). Provided the pressure is supplied - 3 atm. into the canal with a pneumatic gun.

One more point - in order to avoid "hitting" for cylinder head repairs - keeping the engine compartment clean (rags, dirt, small tools). There was a case in my practice when the notorious "Morse" chain slipped over the crankshaft pulley because of a piece of plastic, it is not known how it fell exactly under the chain. Moreover, the engine was first turned with a starter with the ignition modules turned off so that the oil pump would pump the hydraulic tensioner (7) for min. crankshaft speed, consulted with the marks - the norm. The motor lasted for several flashes in the cylinders, after which he "died". The result is deplorable: all 16 valves did not even bent, but broke + a broken camshaft. loss of a lot of time, and the client, everything happened in his presence (it was good to call an ambulance) ... .. Remove the chain tensioner.

All camshaft bearing caps are numbered and not interchangeable.

All camshaft bearing caps are numbered and not interchangeable

In garage conditions, in the absence of a compressor and a universal valve dryer, the matter is problematic. firstly, very deep candle wells. It is almost impossible to support the valve, you can of course try with a soft wire with a nut tied at the end ... But it is better to pump 10 atm into the cylinder and calmly work with 4 valves regardless of the piston position (TDC or BDC), and it is not always convenient to turn the crankshaft with the chain removed from the camshafts. Secondly, the valve cracks are so small that it is impossible to use a desiccant “a la VAZ-2108”.

On the removed cylinder head the same problem. And in order not to waste time in search of "crackers" later, use a strong magnet when drying. If you are engaged in auto repair on a professional basis, I recommend a universal desiccant (an irreplaceable thing). When removing old caps, you should not rush, you will always have time to break the valve guide. Putting a new one and then restoring the geometry of the seat is also not a problem, the result is a lot of headaches ". First, squeeze the old cap from all sides, then turn it left and right, carefully, without scratching the surface of the well on which the valve pusher walks. the appearance of a characteristic metallic sound.

We remove the block head, unscrew and tighten the bolts in a certain sequence. Do not forget about the bolt 14 - it is not always noticeable under the dirt.

We estimate the degree of wear of the cylinders with a dial indicator in six different positions for the limit wear, ovality and taper. The limit wear is 0.2 mm. is determined by the difference between the diameter of the belt A and the diameter of the cylinder at the upper edge of the head of the block. Limit ovality (difference between X and Y): 0.015 mm. Limit taper (difference between A and C): 0.010 mm. If there is no indicator, then you need a person which has it. You can measure nothing at all, but in this case, the motor you assembled turns into a “lottery ticket.” We professionally assemble motors for customers who pay us, so we cannot afford a “lottery”.

Be sure to check with flat feelers the clearances in the piston grooves and ring locks. There were kits under the Goetze brand, where all four upper compression rings did not fit into the tolerances by an order of magnitude.

Before removing the pistons, we thoroughly clean the adjacent planes of the cylinder head and the block, and blow it with compressed air. We also control the flatness of the cylinder head: lengthwise, across and diagonally with a flat probe using a large millimeter ruler, or with a vernier caliper. Rotation of the head and cylinder block no more than 0.1 mm.Coming back, I note that the decision to overhaul the cylinder head is made based on the results of the previously measured compression. MSC (valve stem seals) are replaced in any case.

There should be no problems with assembling the pistons, the piston pins are fixed in the pistons with the help of retaining rings. The finger under its own weight should not fall out of the piston and enter it with light effort. Also, when removing them from the block, pay attention to the condition of the connecting rod bearings and crankshaft journals - there should be no seizures. Apply marks on the connecting rod caps in order, they are not interchangeable. The points on the piston crowns should be directed towards the generator drive.

The orientation of the rings on the piston is spelled out in the installation instructions that come with the kit. Before installing the pistons in the cylinders, be sure to grind the block edge with a round file so as not to damage them. Using a special mandrel (you can make it yourself from mm. Sheet of tin) push the piston into the wooden cylinders with a hammer handle, having installed new liners in the connecting rods and caps before that, tighten them to the set torque of 14-16 Nm and turn the nuts by 40 degrees. We clean the oil pan from the remnants of the sealant and the old gasket, and close the crankcase by tightening the bolts in a spiral.

We blow through the cylinder block and the head again with compressed air, especially paying attention to the cleanliness of the threaded holes for the cylinder head bolts (if there is liquid and dirt in them, the block may burst when tightened), put a gasket, and install the head on the block tightening the bolts, as indicated below.

We put the camshafts in such a way that the inlet and outlet cams of the first cylinder look in opposite directions (before disassembly, you can play it safe and mark with a marker on the inside of the camshaft stars, and the counterparts on the bearing caps). Of course, the pistons of 1 and 4 cylinders are at TDC.

We tighten the camshaft bearing caps, install the gears, put on the chain, put on the tensioner, controlling the marks. We pull the stopper out of the tensioner, turning the crankshaft, we achieve the coincidence of the marks (it takes about ten revolutions to turn).

We finish assembling the engine, close all the covers ... etc. We fill in all the fluids ... Before starting the engine, turn it with the starter until the oil pressure lamp on the panel goes out, with the ignition modules turned off.

The peculiarity of these engines is that after the ECU (ECU) is de-energized, or the connector of the electronic throttle valve is disconnected with the ignition on, the throttle valve needs to be taught to idle, the procedure will have to be repeated ten times. If the following learning process does not give ideal results (at idle speed), which is unlikely, you will either have to come to terms with the fact that the car will stall for a week when the gas pedal is reset. Or find LAUNCH and try to teach them.

Before teaching xx, the following conditions must be met:
- the engine and gearbox must be warmed up / The engine temperature must be 70-95 degrees, otherwise it will not learn (this is difficult to catch!)
- if the checkpoint is automatic, put it on R.
- light switch to OFF, if there is no “daylight” light; if there is a size.
- turn off the stove and rear window heating in front of directly
training.

Now the training procedure itself, it will require a watch with a stopwatch,
all the time intervals described below must be performed very precisely! So:
1) turn off the ignition (turn off the engine) after all warm-ups for at least 10 seconds.
2) after making sure that the gas pedal is released, turn on the ignition (the key is in the ON position, do not start the engine) and wait 3 seconds.
3) within 5 seconds, quickly press (all the way!) And release the gas pedal 5 times.
4) after 7 seconds, press all the way down and hold the accelerator pedal until the yellow CHECK ENGINE light starts blinking (

10sec) and will not light up continuously (

20 sec)
5) in 3 seconds after constant lighting of the lamp, release the gas pedal.
6) start the engine (if it stalls, repeat the start) and wait 20 seconds.
- throttle 2-3 times and make sure that the engine returns to normal
idle.
Steps 1-5 are performed with the ignition on and the engine off. Item 6 - start the engine

On pre-styling N16s, the training procedure is completely different. The success of its implementation depends very much on the contamination of the XX regulator, the parameters of the mass air flow sensor. loads from automatic transmission, who has it. In real life, you have to open the throttle with a stop screw with a corresponding movement of the throttle position sensor. Without relevant experience and the presence of CONSULTa, I would not recommend doing this on your own. However. the procedure itself is:
INITIAL CONDITIONS:
1. Battery voltage 12.9 at XX
2. Temperature from 70 to 99 degrees
3. Selector in P or N (automatic transmission)
4. Electrical loads are off (air conditioning, headlights, heated rear window, cars with "Euro-light" - turn on the dimensions)
5. The steering wheel is in the middle position - the wheels are straight.
6. Before training, drive a car for 10 minutes.
7. The radiator fan should not operate.
SELF LEARNING:
1. Turn on the ignition for 1 sec and then turn it off for 10 sec.
2. Start and warm up to 70-99 degrees
3. Mute and wait more than 9 seconds.
4. Start and hold at XX for more than 28 seconds.
5. Remove the brown connector of the throttle position sensor, then put it back on within 5 seconds.
6. Wait 20 sec.
7. Make sure. that XX is within the limits of the manual transmission standards 650-750; Automatic transmission 750-850.
8. “Gazanut” 2-3 times and make sure. that the speed of XX returns to the above norm.
7. Make sure that XX is within the normal range

And in conclusion, a few words.

The first indicator of a successful repair is that the engine stops "sweating" with oil. Oil consumption for waste drops sharply, and, accordingly, the dynamic performance of the internal combustion engine improves.

If after the repair done by you everything is exactly like that, then you can do the repair of engines professionally.

Immediately I apologize for writing in this thread, but:
1. Didn't find a branch for Almer's
2. Almera almost = Bluebird Sylphy

I bought a Nissan Almera car, pleased with how an elephant had traveled for a month, when it suddenly turned out that the engine loves to eat oil (it took about 5-6 liters for the kilometers traveled after 4t). I thought about repairing, the service said that with such a zhor, a capital is already needed (15tr work + 20tr parts) or an engine replacement (25-35tr).

Friends, because I am just a novice car enthusiast, I would like to hear your opinion whether it is worth repairing or changing right away. If you change, then how and where to find the engine.

We carry out the work when it is necessary to repair the engine or replace it.

If the work is carried out on a viewing ditch or overpass, it is better to remove the engine from the engine compartment upwards using a lifting device, having previously dismantled the gearbox. In a garage equipped with a lift, it is more convenient to remove the entire power unit from the engine compartment downward, and then disconnect the engine and gearbox.

We describe the operations for dismantling the engine and power unit for a car with power steering and air conditioning.

Remove the storage battery (see "Removing the storage battery").

We drain the oil from the engine (see "Changing the oil and the engine oil filter 1.6 (16V)") and the coolant (see "Replacing the engine coolant 1.6 (16V)").

Remove the air filter housing (see "Removing the air filter housing").

Disconnect the front pipe of the exhaust system from the exhaust manifold (see "Removing the exhaust system").

Remove the fuel rail protection (see "Removing the fuel rail protection").

Disconnect the tip of the fuel pipe from the fuel rail union (see "Removing the fuel rail and injectors").

Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle lever and the receiver (see "Replacing the throttle cable").

Disconnect the tube of the vacuum brake booster check valve from the receiver union (see "Removing the vacuum brake booster check valve").

Squeezing the two clamps, disconnect the canister purge tube from the engine idle system hose fitting

Remove the power steering reservoir from the upper cross member of the radiator frame.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the bolt securing the bracket of the power steering tube to the cylinder block

The engine can be dismantled with or without a power steering pump without opening the power steering hydraulic drive.

In the first option, we unscrew the bolts securing the power steering pump to the engine bracket and, without disconnecting the tube and hose from the pump, tie the pump to the upper cross member of the radiator frame with a cord or wire so that it does not interfere with the dismantling of the engine. In the second option, we disconnect the tube and hose from the pump (see "Removing the power steering pump"), draining the working fluid from them into the container.

We remove the generator (see "Removing the generator, replacing the voltage regulator and the rectifier unit on the 1.6 (16V) engine").

Disconnect the wires from the starter (see "Removing and checking the starter").

We unscrew the bolts securing the air conditioner compressor to the bracket (see “Removing the air conditioner compressor”) and, without disconnecting the air conditioning system pipes, take the compressor to the side and tie it up so that it does not interfere with the removal of the engine.

Remove the radiator of the cooling system (see "Removing the radiator").

We disconnect the cooling system hoses from the cover and the thermostat housing, as well as from the inlet pipe of the coolant pump.

Disconnect the engine control system wiring harness pads from the ignition coils, idle speed control, fuel injectors, adsorber purge solenoid valve and sensors: oxygen concentration, detonation, absolute pressure and intake air temperature, insufficient oil pressure indicator, coolant temperature, crankshaft position , throttle position (see the corresponding chapters: "Engine 1.6 (16V)", "Engine power supply system 1.6 (16V)", "Engine management system 1.6 (16V)").

We remove the wiring harnesses from the engine to the side.

If the engine is supposed to be lifted out of the engine compartment upwards using a lifting device, then first it is necessary to remove the gearbox (see "Removing the gearbox").

Raise the hood and hold it upright. We fasten the chains of the lifting device by two eyelets located on the engine. Having tightened the chains, we remove the stop from under the engine, which supported it when removing the gearbox.

Remove the right support of the power unit (see "Replacing the support of the power unit").

Before removing the engine, it is necessary to check again whether all hoses, pipes, wires are disconnected from the engine and laid to the side.

Using a lifting device, lift and remove the engine from the engine compartment.

If the work is carried out on a lift and the power unit is removed downward, then it is not necessary to dismantle the generator - you just need to disconnect the wires from it.

When dismantling the power unit, instead of removing the gearbox, the following work must be performed.

Remove the front wheel drives (see "Removing the front wheel drives") and the subframe (see "Removing the subframe").

Disconnect the clutch release cable from the clutch release mechanism fork and the bracket on the gearbox (see "Replacing the clutch release cable"). Disconnect the transmission control rod from the gearshift rod (see "Removing the transmission control rod"). Disconnect the "ground" wires and the wiring harness from the gearbox (see "Removing the gearbox"). Remove the speed sensor (see "Removing the speed sensor"). Disconnect the wiring block from the reverse light switch (see "Removing the reverse light switch").

We install adjustable stops or a solid table under the engine and gearbox. Remove the right support of the power unit (see "Replacing the support of the power unit").

We unscrew the nut securing the left support of the power unit to the support bracket (see "Removing the transmission").

Raising the car on a lift or lowering the power unit on adjustable stops, remove the left support bracket pin from the hole in the support cushion.

We install the engine or power unit on the car in the reverse order.

alexio

Drives: Mitsubishi outlander
With us from 23.05.10
Total Posts: 386

In this article, I will describe in detail the process of replacing valve stem seals in a 1.8L Nissan Almera N16E engine. 2002 onwards In view of the almost identical design of engines for the N15 models and the like, the repair process applies to them.

What prompted me to make this rather difficult renovation? There are only two reasons:
1. Large oil consumption. Every thousand kilometers I poured 0.6 liters of Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 into the engine. Who owns this wonderful car knows that the consumption is 0.5 liters per 1000 km. even considered by the manufacturer itself (!) to be valid. This is especially true of cars with a 1.8 liter engine, of which I am the proud owner. This is explained by the experimental oil scraper rings used in this model. The rings do a pretty bad job, and the oil from the walls burns out in the cylinders. After this model, Nissan did not use these rings anywhere else. But still, for a long time I was amused by the thought that the reason for my increased oil consumption was not because of the rings, but because of those worn out over 116,000 km. valve stem seals. Although logic dictated that 600 gr. oils cannot just leak through these gum ... But nevertheless it was decided to change them, since there was no desire to capitalize the engine.

2. This repair is not quite cheap, and I did not want to trust the heart of my beloved car to "Uncle Petya from the garage". Fortunately, I have a brother who has experience in overhauling Japanese women and other products from the automotive industry. In addition, by this time I had acquired a large amount of information on the repair of Nissan Almera engines with photographs. Rembase in the form of a garage was available and a large set of tools was also available.

The renovation began with early preparation for it. The following accessories were ordered for> the necessary components and accessories were purchased on the market:

1. Oil scraper cap Corteco, article 12015361, 16 pcs. for 31.34 rubles. = 501.44 rubles.
2. Elring valve cover gasket, article 438.890, 1 pc. for 294.04 rubles.
3. Dryer for VAZ-2112 (with 16-valve engine). With the smallest diameter of the thrust washer, for 150 r.
4. A thin screwdriver with a long sting and a magnetized end, for 30 rubles.
5. Round nose pliers with curved long ends, for 150 rubles.
6. gray, high-temperature sealant, for 200 rubles. (not useful)
7. Tint for chips (like nail polish) with quick-drying paint. The color is white or another bright - I already had paint, it costs about 100 rubles.
8. Rags, household gloves - 30 rubles.

In total, about 1500 rubles. A little. Take the original caps the toad strangled me. In addition, the people put on the Corteco and the flight was normal.

So, in fact, the process itself.

We remove the battery, remove it so that it does not get in the way. We unscrew the expansion tank with the coolant, together with the hose we remove the battery in place. We jack the car, remove the right front wheel. Remove the plastic wheel arch liner to provide access to the lower pulley. Disconnect the contacts from the ignition coils, remove the coils. Do not unscrew the candles yet, so as not to pour dirt into the cylinders.

Disconnect the two rubber tubes from the valve cover. Loosen all the valve cover screws and unscrew them. I put everything in one jar so that they would not get lost in the bottomless bowels of the garage. With a little effort, we remove the valve cover along with two gaskets - which is around the entire perimeter and under the crankcase gas outlet (small, rectangular). The Elring kit contains both of these gaskets, we will install new ones. We see the camshafts:

The absence of carbon deposits, according to one connoisseur, suggests that it is not the caps and rings that are to blame for the oil consumption, but the clogged catalyst and the PCV valve (crankcase exhaust). I checked the valve - it works, but there was a suspiciously large amount of oil in it, which indicated that the rectangular gasket was leaking. This amount of oil could easily go into the tube. I do not plan to disassemble the catalyst yet. But if the consumption does not decrease, I will climb into it too, let it not worry. By the way, the air passages of the lid were also full of oil - probably changing the gasket will help a lot - do not throw it off the account. The old one was very stiff. But back to the purpose of the repair - the caps.

It is recommended to wipe the oil a little - it will interfere with further analysis, and you can take it out “up to the neck” instead of “up to the elbow”. Now comes the fun part. In all repair tips and guides, people have always removed the side cylinder head cover. This is the one that covers the sprockets and camshaft chain and sits on the gray sealant. This is understandable - the cover interferes with the removal of shafts and sprockets. But we didn't want to take off the lid, because what was planted once well - let it sit like that. Who knows how it will sit on the new sealant. And to shoot it is long and tedious. We decided to try to take the sprockets all the way into the cover and take out the shafts and them.

We started with the first cylinder. For this, they took out a candle. IMPORTANT: To avoid the valves falling into the cylinder, the piston must be raised to the highest position. To do this, insert the dipstick into the plug hole so that the end rests on the piston. Next, you need to twist the pulley (by the belt or with a wrench with a head thrown over the bolt of the lower pulley in the area of the removed wheel) until the shup stops rising and freezes before lowering. Next (IMPORTANT) put paint marks (from a tube for chips) on the chain and sprockets, fixing the position of the teeth in the chain.

When assembling, you will need to put on the chain as it was - on the same sprocket teeth. We mark the top of the shafts with paint. The idea is the same - to put them in the same position when assembling. My camshafts were already marked with paint (red and yellow) so as not to confuse the intake and exhaust shaft.

With an open-end wrench or a ring wrench with a ratchet, not without effort, we unscrew the bolts of the sprockets. At the same time, in order to prevent the rotation of the cylinders, from the bottom under the wheel, we fix the large pulley with a key with a head.

The bolts are not completely removed. We begin to remove the yoke - the shaft mountings. First, the first one is near the asterisks, then the rest, I follow the correct order of weakening. We remove the yoke and put all this economy on a clean cloth prepared in advance in the same order as it was established.

Next, remove the asterisks from the seats. The first comes out within the side cover quite easily if you remove the shaft position sensor (it looks like a cut off cylinder) - it can be seen in Fig. 5. It is fastened with one bolt and can be removed without problems. The shafts freed from the yokes should be lifted with something like a screwdriver, because they sit firmly in their seats. After that, you can try to remove them from the sprockets.

When the shafts are removed, you need to remove the near sprocket and fix the chain in a slight tension so that it does not fly off at the bottom.

Next, you need to remove the shiny cups from the valves.

They are not secured by anything, but they are not easy to remove, tk. stick inside. We found a good way to remove them with a magnet. Everything was removed in a minute.

Now you need to remove the springs. For this it is necessary to dry out the valve. We do this only on the first and fourth cylinders! Because it is in them that the piston is in the upper position. This is what a desiccant is.

We fasten the extreme bracket with a bolt to a suitable hole in the cylinder head. And the second press on the washer with a small jerk until it stops. At the same time, the crackers are released and they can be neatly taken out with a thin magnetic screwdriver. You should be extremely careful in this, so as not to lose them.

We carefully take out the springs with the washer at the top. We lay out on the table in the correct order.

Everything. We got to the caps.

Using round nose pliers with bent ends, we take out the old caps with great effort. Do not be shy and clamp them tightly to deformation - they are no longer needed. Here we have killed a lot of time and effort.

We put on new caps and press them to the end with a suitable tube or washer, using the same desiccant. With the pipe we got it much easier and faster.

We change the caps on two cylinders at once - 1m and 4m. Next, insert the springs into place and dry them. Easier said than done. Most of the repair time was spent on this ... Crackers don't just sit in their places, you can't stick your fingers in, a magnetic screwdriver hurts more than helps. In this process, a spring jumped out once and crackers were found only thanks to some providence…. Moreover, in the worst place - near the chain, in the depths ... So here you have to be very careful and it is better to cover the engine with rags. After the valves of two cylinders dry out, it is necessary to move the pistons of the 2nd and 3rd also to the upper position. To do this, scrolling a large pulley under the wheel and holding the removed chain in tension, we monitor the position of the probe stuck into the candle well (the candles have already been unscrewed).

Further, the actions are repeated. After the last valve has dried out, we assemble the engine in the reverse order. We insert the cups, put the shafts in place (not without difficulty) and insert them into the asterisks. Having previously returned the chain to the same teeth, according to the marks. We fasten everything that we unscrewed. We wash the valve cover to remove carbon deposits and oil with gasoline. We put new gaskets and fasten in place. After collecting, making sure that no screwdriver is forgotten in the engine compartment, we start and enjoy the new caps

The perfection of the technical equipment of Almera is beyond doubt, and not every motorist decides to repair the Nissan Almera H16 engine with his own hands. The emergence of a new generation of 16-valve power units is a completely natural process, but some not very difficult types of repairing these motors are quite within the power of any car owner who can use a screwdriver and wrench.

When the Nissan Almera N16 engine begins to overheat and antifreeze and oil leak from under the block head is noticed, it is necessary to remove it and replace the gasket. Due to high temperatures, the head may warp, and then grinding of the place of its connection with the cylinder block will be required.

It is recommended to release the head from hoses, attachments and other components in the following sequence:

We turn off the minus of the battery and drain the antifreeze.
Disconnect the fastening of the ignition coils and remove them.
We remove the exhaust manifold, having previously unscrewed the nuts from the mounting studs.
We squeeze the tendrils of the clamps to remove the hoses for air supply to the throttle, crankcase ventilation and intake manifold.
Disconnect the brake vacuum cleaner.
We unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the wires connecting the total mass to the block head.
Disconnect the connectors of the throttle, temperature sensor and injectors wires.
We dismantle the electrical connector of the adsorber valve and remove the hose from it.
Disconnect the petrol supply from the fuel rail.
We unscrew the bolt securing the generator bracket, and take it to the side together with the generator.
We turn off the camshafts and carefully remove them.
Unscrew the mounting bolts from the intake manifold that secure the engine mount.
We disconnect the bolts securing the head in the sequence given in the instructions for repairing the Almera car, take out the cylinder head and place it on the desktop.

Do not try to dismantle the head on a hot engine, in this case, deformation of the contacting plane of the cylinder head at the junction with the cylinder block is possible.

On the removed head and cylinder block, we clean the contacting surfaces, after which we check the geometry of this part for warpage.To do this, with the edge of an iron ruler, we check the plane along the length, then across and from corner to corner, measuring the resulting gap with a feeler gauge. If the gap is less than 0.1 mm, the head can be put back, with a larger value of the cylinder head, it must be sent to a specialized workshop for grinding.

Before putting the head in place, remove dirt and oil from the holes for the mounting bolts, put a new gasket on the engine block and lubricate the mounting bolts with engine oil.

Further installation and assembly is carried out in accordance with the manual in order, the tightening torques of the cylinder head bolts and camshafts.

If you notice extraneous noise under the valve cover of your Almera's engine, then it's time to check the clearances in the valve mechanism. It is recommended to measure the clearances only on a cold engine, otherwise they will change as they cool down, and each time their value will be different.

The size of the gaps on the inlet valves should be within 0.25–0.33 mm, on the outlet valves - 0.32–0.40. After removing the top cover, armed with a feeler gauge, measure the clearances, adhering to the following sequence:

Turning the crankshaft, we bring it to the TDC of the first cylinder.
In this position, we measure the clearances on the intake camshaft of the first and second cylinders, and on the camshaft - exhaust from the first and third cylinders, and record the measurement results.
We make a full turn of the crankshaft.
In this position, we measure the clearances of the third and fourth cylinders on the intake camshaft, and the second and fourth cylinders on the exhaust camshaft and also record the results.

If the measurement results differ from the nominal value, remove the adjusting washer and replace it with another one from the repair kit.

All washers have their thickness marked on the back. For example, the number 235 means that the thickness of this shim is 2.35 mm. The repair kits contain 73 washers for the Nissan Almera H16 engine of various sizes. We put the selected washers in place and close the valve cover.

This is the most difficult work that you can do yourself, and maintenance and replacement of some consumables on a Nissan is not particularly difficult and is within the power of any car enthusiast. As for other types of repairs on the Nissan Almera H16 engine, it is better to entrust their implementation to the professionals working in the relevant services.

2. This repair is not quite cheap, and I did not want to trust the heart of my beloved car to "Uncle Petya from the garage". Fortunately, I have a brother who has experience in overhauling Japanese women and other products from the automotive industry. In addition, by this time I had acquired a large amount of information on the repair of Nissan Almera engines with photographs.Rembase in the form of a garage was available and a large set of tools was also available.

The renovation began with early preparation for it. The following accessories were ordered for> the necessary components and accessories were purchased on the market:

Oil scraper cap Corteco, article 12015361, 16 pcs. for 31.34 rubles. = 501.44 rubles.
Valve cover gasket Elring, article 438.890, 1 PC. for 294.04 rubles.
Dryer for VAZ-2112 (with 16-valve engine). With the smallest diameter of the thrust washer, for 150 r.
A thin screwdriver with a long sting and a magnetized end, for 30 rubles.
Round nose pliers with curved long ends, for 150 r.
gray, high-temperature sealant, for 200 r. (not useful)
Tint for chips (like nail polish) with quick-drying paint. The color is white or another bright - I already had paint, it costs about 100 rubles.
Rags, household gloves - 30 rubles.

Total about 1500r... A little. Take the original caps the toad strangled me. Besides, people put on C orteco and the flight was normal.

So, in fact, the process itself.

When assembling, you will need to put on the chain as it was - on the same sprocket teeth. We mark the top of the shafts with paint. The idea is the same - to put them in the same position when assembling.My camshafts were already marked with paint (red and yellow) so as not to confuse the intake and exhaust shaft.

When the shafts are removed, you need to remove the near sprocket and fix the chain in a slight tension so that it does not fly off at the bottom.

Next, you need to remove the shiny cups from the valves.

They are not secured by anything, but they are not easy to remove, tk. stick inside. We found a good way to remove them with a magnet. Everything was removed in a minute.

We carefully take out the springs with the washer at the top. We lay out on the table in the correct order.

Everything. We got to the caps.

We put on new caps and press them to the end with a suitable tube or washer, using the same desiccant. With the pipe we got it much easier and faster.

Video (click to play).

Further, the actions are repeated. After the last valve has dried out, we assemble the engine in the reverse order. We insert the cups, put the shafts in place (not without difficulty) and insert them into the asterisks. Having previously returned the chain to the same teeth, according to the marks. We fasten everything that we unscrewed. We wash the valve cover to remove carbon deposits and oil with gasoline. We put new gaskets and fasten in place. After collecting, making sure that no screwdriver is left in the engine compartment, start and enjoy the new caps 🙂.