In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2108 internal combustion engine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Pressing the pin into the upper connecting rod head 1 - mandrel; 2 - an adjusting nut; 3 - piston; 4 - piston pin; 5 - guide sleeve; 6 - connecting rod; 7 - screw.
After dismantling, install the engine on a dismantling stand. Remove the generator, the cylinder head (see Removing and disassembling the cylinder head), the upper clutch housing cover, the flywheel (see Replacing the rear crankshaft oil seal) and the oil pump (see Removing and disassembling the oil pump).
In the same way, we remove the pistons with connecting rods from other cylinders. We clamp the connecting rod in a vice with soft metal pads. With the fingers of our hands, carefully (without applying much effort) we open the locks of the piston rings and alternately remove them from the piston ...
On the VAZ-21083 engine, the piston pin is inserted into the upper connecting rod head with an interference fit.
On the VAZ-2111 engine, floating-type piston rings are used, freely rotating in the piston bosses and the connecting rod bushing. To disassemble the piston with the connecting rod, we clamp the connecting rod in a vice with soft metal linings.
Remove the second retaining ring in the same way.
We assemble the engine in reverse order. We install liners in the main bearing caps without a groove on the inner surface.
Lubricate the liners with engine oil and place the crankshaft in the support. We insert thrust half rings lubricated with engine oil into the grooves of the third main bearing support. The surfaces of the half rings with an anti-friction coating (grooves are made on them) should face the crankshaft cheeks.
We tighten the cover bolts. Pistons for cylinders are selected by class.
Video (click to play).
When assembling the connecting rod-piston group, it is necessary that the piston pin, lubricated with engine oil, enters the piston hole with the pressure of the thumb and does not fall out of the piston when the finger is in the vertical position. To press the finger into the upper head of the connecting rod of the VAZ-21083 engine, we mount the finger on a universal mandrel (see figure). Size A is calculated by the formula:
A = 0.5 x (D - B - C + E) mm, where D is the piston diameter, B - finger length, C is the distance between the bosses, E - the width of the connecting rod head. We do not tighten the screw 7, because when heated from the connecting rod, the finger lengthens and the screw can jam. To assemble pistons with connecting rods, we heat the connecting rod on an electric stove or in a muffle furnace (up to 240 ° C). We clamp the heated connecting rod in a vice.
We put the piston on the connecting rod, ensuring the coincidence of the holes in the upper connecting rod head and the piston bosses. We insert a mandrel with a finger into the hole in the piston boss and push it into the connecting rod head. In this case, the piston should be pressed by the boss against the connecting rod head in the direction of pressing the pin. We install rings on the pistons and arrange them as follows: the lock of the upper compression ring is oriented at an angle of about 45 ° to the axis of the piston pin; the lock of the lower compression ring - at an angle of 180 ° to the axis of the lock of the upper ring; oil scraper ring lock - at an angle of 90 ° to the axis of the upper compression ring lock. Install the lower compression ring with the groove ("scraper") down. If the ring is marked "TOP" or "TOP", place the ring with the mark up. When installing the oil scraper ring, place the expander lock on the side opposite to the ring lock. Before installing the parts, we lubricate the cylinders, pistons with rings and connecting rod bearings with engine oil.
Before installing the piston with connecting rod into the cylinder ...
Model 2108 is considered one of the most popular models of the domestic auto industry.Like the VAZ 2108 engine, the other components of the car are made with high quality and thoroughness.
However, at the moment we are interested in the engine of the car, which has undergone several changes over the long history of the VAZ 2108 brand. During the entire production period, there were several modifications of the "eight", which were completed mainly with the following engines:
with a capacity of 65 h.p. and a volume of 1.3 liters;
carburetor, with a working volume of 1.5 liters, power reached 78 hp. (VAZ 21083);
injection engine with a working volume of 1.5 liters (VAZ 21083i)
A few more nuances should be noted on the subject of the VAZ 2108 engine. A properly tuned "engine" should have a soft, even exhaust. There should be no jerks or various extraneous sounds. The exhaust must be colorless. If you hear interruptions in the sound, then the cylinder is junk. To eliminate this malfunction, you need to check the high-voltage wires and candles. If necessary, replace them.
To find out the condition of the engine, you can submit it to a special diagnosis. This will require a diagnostic wire for the "family" VAZ. Next, you need to connect it under the glove compartment. Then we connect it to the computer and scan the injector for errors. Next, we look at the list of errors and, if possible, fix them with our own hands.
During operations such as replacing the power unit or repairing, as well as if it is necessary to perform complex straightening operations, it becomes time-consuming to remove the engine. To do this, we drive the car into the inspection pit. To begin with, let's take a closer look at the photo of the diagram of the engine itself.
Let's get to work. First, drain the oil. To do this, unscrew the pan cap. Having previously unscrewed the plug on the engine block, carefully drain the coolant. Remove the terminal from the battery, disconnect the suction cable and remove the gas cable. We remove the wires from the generator, temperature and pressure sensor. Next, remove the ignition block from the distributor and remove the central wire from the ignition coil.
Then we remove the wires from the starter, release the gas clamp and carefully remove it. We also remove the coolant pipes and the tube from the special vacuum brake booster. Remove the front exhaust pipe. We return the timing belt cover. This is almost a necessary procedure, as due to lack of distance, it will subsequently be difficult to remove the engine.
Next, we put an emphasis under the wheels on the left side of the car and carefully remove the right front wheel. In addition to the jack, you should insure yourself with any support under the body. We unscrew the crankshaft pulley through the inspection hatch. Remove the timing belt. The alternator belt was removed earlier. Then be sure to remove the crankshaft pulley. We disconnect the engine from the gearbox - this is the next operation.
With the help of a knob and a corresponding head, we tear off all the fastening bolts. Using a hoist, it is necessary to slightly raise the motor and release its cushion bolts, at the same time, it is better to raise the power unit a little, so the mounting bolts will come out easier. We unscrew the bolts to the end and take them out completely. We hook and raise the motor using a hoist. Carefully remove the engine protection. We remove the generator. This completes the preparatory work.
Next, we gradually raise the "engine" and at the same time push it out of the box. We carefully remove it. After completing the appropriate repairs, the VAZ 2108 engine is installed on the car. All actions are performed in reverse order.
In the process of repairing a VAZ 2108 engine, work should be done with the following elements:
Most often, tuning a VAZ 2108 engine includes operations for boring and polishing the intake and exhaust channels, and this, as a result, leads to a certain increase in volume.It is widely known that if the power unit is bored to a volume of 1.8 liters, it is possible to develop power of only 170 hp. However, thanks to the development of technology, today it has become possible to increase the power to 200 horsepower. This can be achieved by installing a turbine.
Considering the reviews of many domestic "tuners", the best option for the VAZ 2108 engine would be to install a turbine from the Subaru company. Let's get to work. We take a new unit, for example, from Lada Kalina, which has conventional built-in oil nozzles. Special additional channels are made in the standard block head and new valves are installed. At the same time, the shafts remain standard. Factory injectors are replaced with others that are more efficient, for example, from the Saab 2.3T.
You can also install a reliable Walbro petrol pump. It is designed for power units with a capacity of about 600 hp. Taking into account the peculiarities of the placement of the VAZ 2108 engine, the turbine should be installed directly above the outlet windows. You can also take a block from Subaru - IHI VF10 as a turbine. It is of high quality and not very expensive. As an exhaust manifold, you can use a do-it-yourself stainless steel part. After finishing all the tuning operations, if done correctly, the car will be able to show impressive dynamics. He will be able to compete with cars even on the high-speed track.
1. Install the liners in the bed of the main bearings. In this case, the retaining protrusion of the liner must enter the groove of the bed. Install liners with grooves in the first, second, fourth and fifth beds (counting from the camshaft drive), and in the third - without a groove.
2. Lubricate the liners with engine oil.
3. Lubricate the crankshaft journals with engine oil and lay the shaft in the bed of the main bearings. In this case, the flywheel mounting flange must be located on the side of the fourth cylinder.
4. Insert two thrust half rings into the grooves of the bed of the third main bearing.
5. Rotate the half rings so that the ends are flush with the ends of the bed.
6. Insert the liners into the liner caps without grooves. In this case, the retaining protrusion of the insert must enter the groove of the cover.
7. Lubricate the lada samara cover insert with engine oil. Replace the cover according to the mark.
8. The cover is installed so that the mark on it is located on the side of the generator (on the left side of the engine). Install the rest of the covers in the same way according to the marks.
9. Install the cover bolts without tightening them.
10. Tighten the cover bolts to a torque of 69-84 Nm (6.9-8.4 kgfm). Tighten the third cover bolts first, then the second and fourth, then the first and fifth. After tightening the bolts, turn the crankshaft - it should rotate easily, without jamming.
11. Using an indicator, measure the axial clearance of the crankshaft. It should be in the range of 0.06-0.26 mm. If the gap is greater than 0.26 mm, replace the thrust washers (see note 1).
To measure the axial clearance of the crankshaft, install the indicator so that its foot rests against the shaft flange. Move the crankshaft all the way away from the indicator and install the indicator
to 0. Move the crankshaft in the opposite direction. The indicator will show the size of the gap.
As spare parts, half rings of nominal size (2.31-2.36 mm thick) and size increased by 0.127 mm (2.437-2.36 mm thick) are supplied.
12. Press the crankshaft rear oil seal into the holder using a mandrel until it stops.
13. Grease the retainer gasket to the gland retainer for easy installation.
14. Lubricate the lip of the oil seal with engine oil.
15. Lubricate the crankshaft flange with engine oil.
16. The crankshaft rear oil seal is installed in the holder using a special mandrel. If there is no mandrel, slide the oil seal with the holder onto the crankshaft flange, carefully tucking the lip of the oil seal onto the shaft flange with a pointed stick made of soft wood.
17. Carefully slide the holder along the flange until it stops and tighten the fastening bolts.
18. Adjust the holder so that its top plane coincides with the plane of the block.
19. Tighten the six mounting bolts of the holder.
20. Press the crankshaft front oil seal into the oil pump housing using a mandrel. Lubricate the lip of the oil seal with engine oil.
21. Lubricate the oil pump gears with engine oil by pouring oil through the oil receiver hole.
22. Turn the oil pump gears several times by the pinion lugs.
23. Turn the drive gear of the oil pump for proper installation on the crankshaft of the VAZ 21099: the projections on the drive gear must match.
24. ... with flats on the crankshaft.
25. Apply grease to the gasket to the pump for easy installation.
26. The front crankshaft oil seal is installed using a special mandrel. If there is no mandrel, slide the pump with the oil seal onto the crankshaft up to the seat on the shaft. Then, using a sharpened soft wood stick, carefully tuck the lip of the oil seal onto the shaft journal.
27. Carefully slide the oil pump along the shaft until it stops and tighten the mounting bolts. Correct the position of the pump so that its upper plane coincides with the plane of the block. Tighten the six mounting bolts to a torque of 8.5-10.0 Nm (0.85-1.0 kgfm).
29. ... and crankshaft journals with a soft, lint-free cloth.
30. Lubricate the mirror of the first cylinder with engine oil.
31. Lubricate the piston mounting mandrel with engine oil.
32. Lubricate the piston of the 1st cylinder with engine oil.
33. Spread the piston ring locks at an angle of 120 ° relative to each other.
34. Insert the piston assembly with the connecting rod into a mandrel and use it to install the piston into the cylinder so that the arrow on the piston crown points towards the oil pump.
35. Install the connecting rod cover with bushing according to the marking, after having lubricated the bushing with engine oil (see note).
The caps on the connecting rods are installed so that the cylinder numbers of the VAZ 21099 on the cover and the connecting rod are on the same side.
36. Install the two cover retaining nuts. Install the rest of the pistons in the same way.
37. Tighten the connecting rod cap nuts with a torque wrench to a torque of 44-54 Nm (4.4-5.4 kgfm).
38. Apply a thin layer of sealant to the threads of the flywheel mounting bolts.
39. Install the flywheel, then the lock washer, and install the flywheel mounting bolts (see note).
Install the flywheel so that the mark on the flywheel is opposite the connecting rod cover of the fourth cylinder of the VAZ 2109, since the mounting bolts are asymmetrically located.
40. Tighten the flywheel mounting bolts to a torque of 62-89 Nm (6.2-8.9 kgfm), keeping the VAZ 2108 flywheel from turning.
41. Lubricate the oil receiver O-ring with engine oil.
42. Install the oil receiver in place (see note) and tighten the bolt securing the oil receiver to the oil pump to a torque of 7.0-8.0 N · m (0.7-0.8 kgf · m).
We recommend replacing the oil receiver O-ring before installation.
43. Tighten the two bolts securing the oil receiver to the cover of the second main bearing to a torque of 8-10 Nm (0.8-1.0 kgfm).
44. Cut off the protruding ends of the gland holder and oil pump gaskets.
45. Lubricate the cylinder block mating face with grease.
46. Install the oil sump gasket.
47. Install the oil sump.
48. Tighten the oil sump mounting bolts to a torque of 5-8 Nm (0.5-0.8 kgfm).
49. Install the key into the groove in the crankshaft.
50. Install the crankshaft pulley with the pin out.
51. Slide the toothed belt onto the crankshaft pulley.
52. Install the pulley on the crankshaft, aligning the hole in the pulley with the pin on the toothed pulley of the VAZ 2109 camshaft drive belt.
54. Install the gasket on the water pump and lubricate the gasket with grease.
55. Install the water pump in the cylinder block of the VAZ 2108 so that the factory marking of the pump is directed towards the mating plane of the cylinder block, since the mounting bolts are asymmetrically located.
56. Install the rear camshaft cover.
57. Tighten the four bolts securing the rear cover to the cylinder block to a torque of 7.8-8.0 Nm (0.78-0.80 kgfm).
58. Install the driven disk into the pressure plate housing so that the less protruding part of the hub is directed towards the flywheel.
59. Insert a centering mandrel into the splines of the driven disc from the diaphragm spring side.
60. Install the clutch on the flywheel of the lada satellite.
61. Tighten the six bolts securing the clutch to the flywheel evenly diagonally to a torque of 19.0-31.0 Nm (1.9-3.1 kgfm). We recommend replacing the fastening bolts during assembly.
Gasoline engine on the "eight"
The appearance of the VAZ 21083 gasoline engine is directly related to the low quality of domestic rubber products. The fact is that at the very beginning of production, the VAZ 2108 engine was installed on the Lada Samara family cars, the first domestic power unit designed specifically for transverse placement under the hood of a front-wheel drive car.
However, the VAZ 2108 engine had an unpleasant feature common to foreign engines with a timing belt drive. When a timing belt breaks, the engine pistons met with the cylinder head valves, and the latter necessarily bent, which led to expensive repairs to the VAZ 2108 engine. On foreign cars, such a breakdown happened extremely rarely due to the high reliability of the timing belts. However, in the first Samaras, the breakage of a low-quality belt was such a frequent occurrence that it was necessary to urgently refine the engine with the help of specialists from German automakers. As a result, a new engine appeared, which became the progenitor of a whole family of power units. Assembling a VAZ 21083 engine is not a difficult task; it can be done without the help of specialists.
Overhaul of a VAZ 21083 engine usually consists of disassembling the unit, troubleshooting parts, boring the crankshaft and cylinders, and assembling the motor. Dismantling the engine is a simple matter, troubleshooting and boring are also simple procedures. But it is necessary to assemble the motor extremely carefully, carefully following the instructions.
Let's start by installing the crankshaft in the cylinder block. Remember: the numbers of cylinders and main bearings are counted from right to left in the direction of the car. That is, 1 cylinder is located near the pump and timing drive, and 4 - near the clutch and gearbox.