DIY repair of double-circuit boilers vaillant

The Vaillant ATMOTEC PLUS boiler is heating a section of my friend's townhouse. A situation has often begun to occur in which, filling the bath at a certain moment, the boiler goes into error, accordingly, it stops heating the water. I did not observe the error code myself, according to the owner - the crossed out tap on the display, restored the operation by restarting the boiler.

Considering the age of the boiler is more than seven years, which presumably has never been flushed, it was unambiguously decided that it was necessary to flush the secondary DHW heat exchanger from scale and dirt.

Then the question arose - how to wash. You can call a specialist of the service organization with a booster and special fluid, or rinse it yourself at home. Since I had not seen my friend for a long time and the last matches of the World Ice Hockey Championship were due for the weekend, it was decided not to call anyone and boil the heat exchanger in citric acid. After all, it's never too late to flush with a booster.

We drained the water from the boiler through the safety valve, removed the heat exchanger. The presence of dirt in it was visually obvious. For washing, a solution of ordinary citric acid, purchased in a store, was prepared - as the simplest and safest. A sachet of 80 grams was poured into three liters of water. Filling the heat exchanger with a solution, boiled in a regular saucepan three times and washed with water between boils. There was a lot of dirt, from one contour black, from the other - red with a suspension of heavy particles. Only after the third boiling did the mud become noticeably smaller, they decided to complete the procedure. We put the heat exchanger back in place, filled the boiler, and were glad that the water is now warming up significantly faster and has become much hotter. Overall, the procedure was successful.

Everything would be fine, but an hour later, in the absence of the owners, a decent puddle formed under the boiler. As it turned out, the boiler began to relieve pressure through the safety valve. Due to the fact that there was no experience in solving problems in hydraulics, it was decided that the boiler had time to cool down during flushing, we fed it unnecessarily with cold water and as a result, after heating the coolant, the pressure in the system went beyond the limit.

The water was drained from the boiler to a pressure of 1.5 bar, it was by midnight, so we calmed down on this. With the onset of the next day, a decent puddle formed under the boiler again.

It was obvious that after flushing, the boiler began to work incorrectly - during operation, there was a constant increase in pressure to the maximum value.

Expansion tank pressure

According to the symptoms, the first thing that came to mind was to check the pressure of the expansion tank of the boiler. I will not describe how this is done, you can watch the video. If there is no air in it, and there is no compensation for thermal expansion, pressure surges will be observed in the system, which lead to a discharge. We drained the water from the boiler, checked the pressure - the value was about 0.6 bar. Not to say that small, but just in case pumped up to 0.8 bar. Even when we were dumping water from the boiler, we noticed that the pressure in the boiler suddenly increased from 1.2 bar to 1.5 bar in just a few minutes. At the same time, the boiler did not perform any operations at all. It became clear that there was a constant feeding of the boiler. The make-up valve is closed, but the boiler is being fed. Slowly, at approximately 10-15 minute intervals, the pressure in the heating system increased by 0.1 bar.

Having studied the hydraulic circuit, it became clear that "parasitic" makeup can occur only in two places: the makeup tap and the heat exchanger that was washed.

Replacing the secondary heat exchanger

As a result, the problem was solved by installing a replacement heat exchanger.Apparently, there was a fistula in the old heat exchanger, and a point of communication between the two circuits arose. Over time, the fistula was overgrown with scale and dirt, and after rinsing it opened. I do not pretend to be an expert in the field of physicochemical processes occurring inside the heat exchanger, but I would venture to suggest that over time, the scale formed caused local overheating inside and damage to the plate, but at the same time the scale itself ensured the tightness of the circuit.

This whole story prompted me to the following thoughts and recommendations:

• It is advisable to flush the heat exchanger regularly. It all depends, of course, on the water quality of a particular region, the presence or absence of coarse filters, etc. Local organizations recommend flushing once a year before the heating season, but I do not consider this a dogma.
• It would not be superfluous to have a second replacement heat exchanger, this allows replacement at any time, because with such a malfunction, it is impossible to operate the boiler as a whole, even for heating. More is true for owners of large private homes.
• It would be correct to pressurize the heat exchanger after flushing (I don't know if this is done when flushing in specialized organizations, I would do it). In our case, it could be simply blown out with the mouth, because the fistula was large enough.

Checking the tightness of the heat exchanger on the boiler

You can check the tightness of the heat exchanger on the boiler by shutting off the cold water supply to the boiler and opening the hot water tap. If the heating system and the DHW circuit are communicated through a heat exchanger, water will flow from the tap. In our case, this did not happen - from the tap, a little dripped once a minute, drop by drop. Perhaps, if this test were repeated at a boiler pressure of more than 2 bar, then the leak would manifest itself clearly. That is why the option of heat exchanger leakage was initially excluded (as it turned out to be wrong).

Checking the make-up tap Vaillant
The make-up tap could also be the cause of the tap water leakage into the heating system. If it was clearly not possible to reject the heat exchanger, then you can check the make-up valve on the Vaillant ATMO PLUS as follows:

• shut off the cold water supply to the boiler
• make-up tap must be closed
• drain water from the boiler through the safety valve
• unscrew the copper pipe connecting the make-up tap with the boiler heating system
• open the cold water supply to the boiler

If the make-up tap does not completely shut off the water supply to the boiler, you will see it visually.

I decided to describe this case, because this experience can be useful, to someone else in such a situation, it is not always convenient to read many pages of the forum and there is time for this. There are also open comments on the page, in which you can leave your thoughts on this matter or some additions (maybe I made a mistake when writing the article). Constructive criticism in essence is always welcome!

🙂 you overdid it with scale etching and temperature - burned a hole between the chambers. To clean the heat exchanger, you need a flushing stand and more gentle chemicals.
in your defense I can say that flushing the heat exchanger according to the rules cleans it by 70% or so. The operation is time-consuming and expensive. Cheaper and guaranteed result in node replacement. There is also a reason to change the heat exchanger to a more powerful one, from 7 plates to 19. The power of the hot water increases.
Successful repairs to all.

The Vaillant ATMOTEC boiler stores the last ten error codes in memory, which are easy to view on the display, there is no need to torment the owners. By washing in lemon without forced circulation, it is possible to restore working capacity only temporarily, only a booster with an acid composition leads to the state of "new". And for the reasons described, flushing an old heat exchanger often leads only to unnecessary spending and buying a new one.It is not very expensive and you can afford it once every seven to ten years 🙂 The most important thing: it will not work in real life to check the tightness of the make-up tap using the method indicated at the end of the article, since it is with this boiler model that an easily unscrewed thin tube goes to the cold water inlet, and the other end of the faucet is supported by a check valve that prevents water from the heating system from escaping to the street in the absence of "water in the tap" and an attempt to raise the pressure! Good luck!

Even if you carry out regular boiler maintenance and operate the equipment correctly, Vaillant equipment can still fail. Do not think that you have come across a fake or the Germans started making bad boilers. Like any other technique, it can also break.

Before repairing the Vilant gas boiler without the help of a specialist, assess your abilities. If you "communicate with you" with technology, you can only advise one thing - even with minor failures, immediately call the wizard. You are not hammering a nail into the wall, but repairing serious equipment. One wrong step can put you and other residents in the house in danger.

Those who are confident in their skills can be advised to make repairs on their own.

New boiler won't start at all? Check if phase and zero are connected correctly. Air that has accumulated in the system can also interfere with the full startup of the boiler.

The second common problem that the owner of a Vaillant boiler may encounter is insufficient flame level. In this case, boiler repair is reduced to the correct setting of the required gas pressure level. If the problem persists, we advise you to check the module on the gas valve, as well as the diode bridge. A complex reconfiguration of equipment can also correct the situation. To carry it out, use the instructions that come with the boiler.

Why does the burner go out immediately after starting the equipment? This symptom may also indicate that the gas pressure is too low. Try to lower the minimum pressure to 5 mbar. It is possible that after this procedure the boiler will start working correctly.

Some owners of Vaillant boilers are faced with the problem of insufficient water temperature. Elementary, Watson - you just need to adjust the minimum and maximum values ​​of the indicators.

If a problem occurs in modulation mode, it makes sense to check the valve and board. But if the sensor readings are inaccurate, the elements may need to be replaced.

A fairly common problem with many Vaillant units is filter clogging. The poor quality of the coolants is to blame for everything. Check the filter periodically - and you will need to buy vaillant parts much less often. Even if the need arises, always purchase original components. Although they will cost more, they will last much more.

Vaillant boiler repair video, in particular, replacing the flow sensor (aquasensor).

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Briefly about how and what can be controlled in the Vaillant VCW 242 mounted double-circuit boiler.

The proprietary sensor is located in the block with the ignition device and costs over 800 (.) Hryvnia.Chinese sensor, more.

Self-service of the gas flue boiler Vaillant 280. Self-cleaning of the combustion chamber.

the heating circuit does not start the heating circuit, the problem is with the three-way valve.

Wall-mounted gas boiler Vaillant: replacement of the heat exchanger of the Vaillant boiler (Vaillant boiler). If the hot one does not flow well.

Wall-mounted double-circuit gas boiler Vilant has several options for malfunctions. Most of them are caused by misuse. But there are also more difficult situations that can be solved only with the help of constant prevention and diagnosis.

Malfunctions of the Vilant gas double-circuit wall-mounted boiler are divided into several groups, due to the occurrence of malfunctions.

• improper installation and operation;
• lack of prevention;
• breakage of parts;
• malfunction of the electronic system.

If necessary, all problems can be eliminated very quickly. To do this, it is enough to know the main faults and error codes, which will be reflected on the electronic scoreboard.

Important! In the absence of the required experience, a full-fledged repair should be carried out by a specialist who will immediately identify the cause of the malfunction and eliminate it.

Vilant double-circuit wall-mounted gas boilers have several common problems:

Important! When installing the equipment, diagnostics should be performed by a specialist or a person with experience, as this will help to avoid most of the errors.

During installation, diagnostics must be carried out in advance, which will identify all the problems. This procedure is mandatory. Most of the problems are related precisely to improper installation and operation. In addition, breakdowns are also more likely to occur under these conditions.

It is worth considering that malfunctions can be caused by a variety of reasons, including mechanical damage or a failure in the electronic control system. Most problems will not show up with annual maintenance and proper operation.

It is also worth considering that in case of a number of breakdowns, the electronic scoreboard will not work. For each specific case, a different way of eliminating the negative factor is used. If you do not understand what the problem is, then it is better to contact specialists who will fix the problem without additional damage to the equipment.

There are some expert tips to take into account. In particular, a number of tips are related to the prevention and initial use of the boiler. Recommendations:

• the model must meet the needs of the heating system;
• connection must be made strictly according to the instructions;
• any small deviations from the duty cycle should be checked immediately;
• before the first working start, diagnostics should be carried out;
• the installation of the equipment is carried out by professionals; otherwise, malfunctions may occur during the first working cycles.

Important! A boiler of any type must be fully serviced. Otherwise, over time, the duty cycle will begin to deteriorate.

During operation, most users have questions that can only be answered by specialists. Also, for each question there is an answer that allows you to solve the problem. Advice:

1. If there is no reaction to the inclusion of water and a set of sounds that come from the equipment itself, it is worth checking the gas supply line, as well as the gas meter.
2. In case of pressure jumps that occur due to the expansion tank, it can simply be pumped up.
3. If the pressure sensor does not work properly, error F75 pops up. To eliminate, you can simply press the feed valve.
4. With alternating shutdown of equipment and supply of either hot or cold water, it is worth setting the minimum pressure.
5. With delays in switching the boiler from one mode to another and sounds that look like gurgling, it is required to pump out excess air.
6. In addition to water, you can only use a coolant specially selected for the boiler. There should be no other liquids.
7. When the equipment stops completely and the panel fades, it is necessary to check the fuses.
8. If the icon flashes with a flame and there is no inclusion, you need to clean the filters and check the sensors.
9. If there is a good pressure of cold water, but hot water does not go well, then you will need to check and change the heat exchanger.

There is one more nuance worth considering. The factory settings are set to the maximum value (not always, but often). If you have a smaller area, it is worth reducing the power. This procedure should be carried out after connection at the first diagnosis.

Different error codes may appear on the display, but, at the same time, the problem can be complex. The error that prevents the equipment from switching to operating mode is displayed.

After identifying the shortcomings, their elimination is required. Further, a complete inspection of the equipment and adjustment is carried out. After that, diagnostics are started, which should check all modes and capabilities of the boiler.

Only after all these procedures can the equipment be put into operation. It is also important to carry out the necessary cleaning after repair or troubleshooting.

There is an important nuance. If the boiler is not regularly maintained, problems with filters and chimney may arise. That is why the maintenance procedure implies not only the change of parts, but also the complete putting of the equipment in order.

Most often, all problems during operation are displayed on the display. It is these signs that are required to navigate in the first place.

The most common errors on the scoreboard are F22, 28, 29, 36, 75. But in fact, there are a lot of errors that are displayed on the screen using codes. Most of the codes will not appear even for the entire long-term period of use, but there are several errors that can occur if used improperly. These include errors like:

• F0 or F1 - a check of the cable and the NTC sensor, which controls the temperature regime, is required;
• F2 - sensor failure or cable break;
• F5 or F6 - incorrect operation of the sensor, which removes combustion products in a safe way;
• F10 - short circuit on the line;
• F13 - the temperature regime of 130 degrees was exceeded, which led to a failure in the system;
• F32 - poor fan performance.

There may be a lot of errors and codes for them, but everything can be found in the instructions. The Russian-language manual contains a list of the most common codes. Less common, but still encountered, are errors:

1. F11 - indicates that there has been a short circuit of the temperature sensor installed in the return line;
2. F12 - this type of error appears only if the water heater sensor is closed;
3. F15 - a short circuit occurred in the outdoor flue gas sensor;
4. F20 - this type of error appears if the overheating sensor was poorly connected or it is inoperative. The error indicates the activation of the overheating protection, which occurs in such situations;
5. F23 - this code appears if there is not enough coolant in the unit and because of this there is a big difference between the readings of the sensors of the incoming and return lines. To eliminate this problem, it is enough to check the correct connection of the sensors, the performance of the pump, as well as its condition, since it can be damaged or blocked;
6. F24 - insufficient amount of coolant in the boiler itself. In such a situation, the temperature rises sharply. This may be due to insufficient pressure in the system itself, low pump performance or blockage;
7. F61 - the control signal to the gas valves is interrupted. In such a situation, you need to immediately check the valves or electronics, they may be faulty.

When these and many other errors appear on the display of the device, you must immediately diagnose it and eliminate all errors in order to prevent its failure.

Even despite the high quality of the product, over time it can be subjected to various damages, which can be recognized using various error codes displayed on the device screen.

All codes must be treated carefully, deciphered and immediately eliminated all problems, otherwise the device may quickly become unusable. To prevent the appearance of new errors, you can call a wizard who can replace the broken parts.

Do you need repair of the Vilant boiler? We professionally deal with repair of the entire line of Vaillant heating boilers, we also provide guarantee for your work... Are you running out of time? Our technicians will repair your boiler quickly and efficiently. There is no need to wait for spare parts, everything is in our warehouse.

German boilers Wilant have long been considered the quality standard of the consumer. But without periodic maintenance, even the most reliable boiler can break down. The following factors lead to breakdown: improper operation, poor water, unstable current, clogged fuel. Do-it-yourself repair of Vaillant boiler automation is difficult, since it is a technically complex household appliance.

Our specialists have been trained at the Vaillant training center, are familiar with the specifics and know the intricacies of repairing Vilant boilers... Boiler repair consists of diagnostics, troubleshooting. Also, the master will find and eliminate, if possible, the cause of the breakdown. The foreman immediately takes spare parts with him to the exit, which may be useful for repairs. This saves you equipment downtime, which is especially important in winter, when the heating system can freeze.

Most often we produce repair of gas boilers Vilant... Floor standing gas boilers, including condensing boilers, are less common, but we also repair them.

• Wall hung gas boilers:
  • Vaillant atmoTEC (Atmotek)
  • Vaillant turboTEC
  • Floor standing gas boilers:
    • Vaillant atmoVIT (Atmovit)
    • Vaillant atmoCRAFT
    • Condensing boilers Vaillant ecoCRAFT (Ecocraft)
    • Electric boilers Vaillant eloBLOCK
    • The gas boiler goes out and ignites.
    • The boiler does not turn on after power surges.
    • Flame separation occurs.
    • Strong vibration and noise of the boiler when switched on.
    • The pipes remain cold, but the feed is hot.
    • The boiler shows errors on the display.
    • You can smell gas.
    • Small pops when entering.
    • The equipment is leaking.

    If you are faced with such or any other problems - call! We will help you! Do not wait for the boiler to completely stop working!
    8 (495) 510-81-51

    We are engaged in the repair of heating boilers of any kind. Gas, diesel, condensing, electric, as well as industrial boilers - we can do everything. Our craftsmen have been trained by leading boiler manufacturers. We have our own huge spare parts warehouse, where more than 30,000 different items are always available.

    You can call the master by phone: 8 (495) 510-81-51

    Send applications by e-mail:

    We are located at the address: Mytischi, st. Selezneva, 33

    Hello! I accidentally came across your site and decided to try my luck. I myself work as a commissioning engineer for instrumentation and automation, including gas equipment. Recently, in our city, the installation of individual low-power heating boilers operating on gas fuel has been widely used. Accordingly, the equipment began to break down over time. The company in which I work is registered in the company "VAILLANT" as an official representative of this company. But the information on the automation system "VAILLANT" gives minimal (roughly speaking, "if it does not work, replace the control board"). Not all customers can afford the cost of new units, but from the experience of servicing large boilers, I know that the repair of such devices can be carried out right at the facility. If someone knows more detailed information about the above automation system, or experience in repair, I ask you to share your information

    Thanks in advance Kamaev Evgeniy

    Good afternoon. Most often it fails:
    1. Flame control system (ionization sensor)
    2. Hot water supply system (water flow sensor is based on the "Hall" effect
    3.If the program is interrupted due to a power outage, it may freeze dull, or the next time it is turned on, serious errors appear and the startup algorithm is violated (I would like to know how you can change the program)

    Wall-mounted gas boiler Vaillant: replacement of the heat exchanger of the Vaillant boiler (Vaillant boiler). If the hot water from the boiler does not flow well, or the boiler water does not flow at all, the reason is: scale in the heat exchanger, in the Vilant boiler.
    How to flush the Vilant boiler heat exchanger:
    The heat exchanger in the Vaillant boiler was changed to a new one with our own hands, and the gas boiler, after the boiler was repaired, has good water pressure at the outlet.

    0:20 - remove the boiler casing
    1:25 - release the pressure on the heating circuit of the Vaillant boiler
    1:51 - unscrew the Vilant heat exchanger
    2:40 - put rubber gaskets under the vailant boiler heat exchanger
    3:31 - install a new heat exchanger and tighten
    6:24 - open the heating circuit valves
    6:46 - check for leaks
    7:20 - add pressure to the heating circuit
    8:46 - checking the pump
    12:08 - check again for tightness

    

    This device appeared in our country thanks to the state program for gasification of the private sector. I don’t remember who recommended this particular brand. Most likely one of the store sellers that I called. Then, like you now, I wanted to get a good, reliable boiler, once and for a long time. German or Italian. In the direction of the domestic ones, he looked with distrust (however, it was not possible to verify in practice).

    Gas double-circuit boiler Vaillant TurboTec Pro purchased in advance (as insurance against further price increases), since nothing was ready yet. Then we just knew that we would conduct gas, that's all. It stood with us in its original packaging for over a year, and now, finally, the necessary preparatory work has been completed. Can be installed.

    Now, having already looked at how the plumbers did it, I will answer: in principle, it is possible. But it is undesirable: in this case, the factory guarantee will not work. There are still a couple of tricks worth knowing when installing on your own. Hanging on the wall is easy, but:

    • the installation site must be co-ordinated with the gas distribution organization (indicated in your project);
    • how will you cut a hole for a turbo chimney, say, in a stone wall (about 10 cm in diameter)?

    And now - a surprise: as a protection against “woodpeckers”, the plant provided secret taps - they do not reveal their presence in any way, they, nevertheless, are in a closed position.

    Vaillant boilers require compliance with simple power supply rules:

    1. be sure (from the very beginning!) connect it only through a voltage stabilizer (or a special UPS for boilers - it already has a stabilizer). Of the first, my plumbers recommended RESANTA products (but they did not recommend using domestic ones, on the contrary). I chose the uninterruptible power supply myself - I took the budget SKN-Z1000 (which actually has a power of 700 W) - it is quite enough. A battery is purchased separately for it: it is recommended for 120A * h, and it lasts for about 8 hours of boiler operation (in the winter season);
    2. The monitors said that the polarity must be observed - allegedly for Vaillant it matters that this particular wire is connected to the phase, the second, respectively, to the ground. In practice, I confused everything and forgot for a long time, but did not notice the boiler's dissatisfaction.

    Vaillant has no problems with reliability. It has been working for me for a couple of years, and has never required repair. By the way, before the start of the new heating season, do not forget to call a specialist for preventive maintenance (this winter - the second in a row from the moment of installation - we first postponed everything for later, and then completely forgot to carry out scheduled maintenance, but there were no deviations in the operation of the boiler It’s a shame in front of the “German”, by the next winter we will definitely call a specialist).

    Not everything went as smoothly for the neighbor.But here, it seems, there is a fault of the installers: according to the old woman, it was they who filled the stabilizer with water (the same as mine), and Vaillant worked without it. For the time being. This time has come in the spring, in the form of a thunderstorm. The electronic filling of Turbo TecPro "flew" from it. The case was out of warranty, and the detail cost the grandmother 2,500 rubles. The rest of the boiler works to this day without any complaints.

    The operation of the Turbo Tec Pro boiler consists of three alternating cycles:

    • the gas is on and the pump is operating, pumping heated water;
    • the gas goes out, and the pump continues to pump water for some time;
    • the boiler seems to be resting (and the lower the temperature of the heating circuit is set, the longer it will “smoke” between operating cycles);
    • everything went over again.

    Since the boiler is double-circuit, both circuits (heating and water heating) must somehow “be friends” (communicate with heat) with each other. But something in the boiler operation algorithm seemed illogical to me:

    if, when the boiler is running on heating the batteries, you start to take hot water, the gas will first go out, and then, after a dozen or two seconds, it flashes again. The question is: why extinguish it?

    if, when the boiler is operating to heat the house, we lower the temperature (of the heating circuit, not hot water), the boiler tries to heat up its hot water supply a little at the expense of “free”, that is, as it believes, excess energy: gas (yellow light ), as already mentioned above, goes out, the green indicator lights up. It would seem that the idea is reasonable, but only ... the green light burns literally ONE SECOND. Do you have time to heat the water circuit even for a fraction of a degree in such a time?

    Even in the “German”, we are pleased with the possibility of additional installation of all sorts of “sweets” (for example, a two-zone temperature sensor that controls it in one of the changes and at the same time on the street; based on the data received, the ordering of the boiler to heat further or to pause - the device is conceived for the sake of saving gas) ...

    Of course, the engineers thought about the safety and durability of the boiler: if the water pressure in the heating circuit drops below normal, Vaillant will stop working and display an error code on its black and white LCD display (along with the red indicator). The same will happen when the gas pressure in the line drops, only the error number will be different. In my first winter (more precisely, already in March, at temperatures above zero), the boiler often "got up" due to a gas error, because Handshake in Russia is incurable - when laying a highway in a microdistrict, it was either too lazy, or forgot ... to blow it thoroughly. Result: There was a lot of water (condensation) in the gas. In winter, she froze on the walls of the pipes, with the appearance of heat, it went into the gearbox and clogged it.

    If you decide to use the Vaillant TurboTec Pro for attracting bathtubs, this paragraph is for you:

    For some reason, Turbo Tek Pro cannot heat water “in real time” (serve as a flow heater). It only heats up that small container of water that is in its bowels. When (quite quickly when taking a shower / filling a bath) this volume is used up, almost cold water starts flowing from the tap ... AND NOW IMAGINE THAT YOU ARE STANDING UNDER THIS Faucet. I even know what comes out of your mouth: YourBunnyWrote “No.!% *? etc. After this (first ... and so far the last) bath / shower, you will probably think about an indirect heating boiler. It is designed to accumulate a large amount of water in advance by heating it from the heating circuit.

    The Vaillant Turbo Tec Pro gas boiler is generally good and reliable. Energy consumes less than a refrigerator. Yes, it has a couple of moments of ridicule (as in one of your negligent relatives), but what you can't take away is German reliability.

    P.S. I have not used any other gas boilers, so I have nothing to compare with. Perhaps the aforementioned shortcomings are found on other models - I do not know. I will be glad to publish your comments, remarks, clarifications.

    Everything is working. Flushed the heat exchanger once. One board burned out through my fault. In the shower, I keep the tap constantly on, then there are no problems with temperature changes.

    Friends! I am not a qualified professional. Your questions will be answered (at least I think so) at the official Vaillant dealership. Write your questions there! Write here only reviews that do not require a response.

    This entry was posted on Saturday, April 7th, 2012 at 20:27 and is filled under: Heating / Gasification

    The gas boiler vaillant atmotec pro vuw int 240 3-3 began to give error F28. Where he stands, I visit twice a week, upon arrival I find cold batteries, a red diode and an F28 error. I restart it by pressing the "troubleshoot" button - it helps for a while. It can even work for a day without interruptions.
    But then it's still F28. We managed to find the following symptoms:
    1. The boiler can “fall into error” right during the operation of the burner for heating. That is, the boiler is working for heating, the yellow indicator is on, suddenly red, error F28.
    2. Ignition works “every other time”. It happens like this: the crackling of the electrodes is twice as long as the "usual" one (by sensations) - the electrodes become silent - some mechanical sound inside the boiler (as if something turns, opens, closes) - again the crackle of electrodes, now of the usual duration - the boiler starts up in heating mode, normal operation. That is, starting from the second ignition attempt.
    3. All of the above appears only in heating mode. When the boiler is running on hot water supply, everything is fine. Change the electrodes? Or is it a gas problem?

    The Vilant 240-3-5 Atmo tech plus double-circuit boiler was installed and put into operation. The launch was carried out independently with the inclusion of all the required programs. Worked without problems for 2 months. Yesterday I turned on the water draw at two points at the same time and heard a specific gurgle in the device. Turned off one point and through
    for a short time everything calmed down. DHW is set to 39 ° C. After that, I turned on the water draw in one place and tried to add the DHW temperature to the maximum. Already after 45 gr. some vibration of the apparatus began to appear and a specific gurgle, as if the water was boiling. When the heating circuit is operating up to 80 gr. nothing of the kind is observed. What could it be?

    The wall-mounted boiler vaillant atmotec pro vuw int 240-3-3 r2 is gaining pressure in the heating system, how to fix it?

    Replace the make-up valve, my ball valves began to pass water after three years. It is also possible that the water passes through the secondary heat exchanger into the heating system.

    Wall-mounted gas boiler Vilant Turbo Tek 24 was often turned on and off, after about 5-7 minutes. Since yesterday, work has become a little different. For example, tonight did not turn on for at least 2 hours, then turned on and worked for a long time. All that has changed since then is grounding,
    which was not at all before. Could this only affect the operation of the boiler? Or is it just a coincidence? The gas is started up by a metal pipe, but with a dielectric insert. Gas consumption per day remained the same, the temperature in the house did not change. And the hot water supply used to work with off / on every 10-15 seconds, while the yellow lamp was on and the green one was blinking. Today, for the first time, the hot water supply also started smoothly, without shutdown, only a green light was on.

    This year, my device also works with a burner lock. That is, it turned on, caught up to the set +5, drives the pump (I did not set it to continuous mode) for 5 minutes, and if the return temperature did not fall to the switch-on temperature, it stalls for 5 minutes (I did not exactly detect it). The difference from last year is that he reduced the power from 24 to 14, having estimated the power of his radiators. There is no grounding in the apartment (there is grounding). DHW will be turned off during water sampling if there is a small water flow and the boiler cannot maintain the set temperature at minimum power (if the gas valve is configured). Adjust the DHW temperature so that the burner does not switch off. If you have it through the boiler, I don't see any problems. And if on a straight line - it is uncomfortable.

    We carried out the assembly, installation and connection of the Vaillant Turbotec pro VUW 242-3 boiler. It heats 200 m2 for the second year last year in frosts down to -15-20 and consumed 400 m3 of gas per month.In the summer, the company that sold it to me carried out MOT, nothing else changed in the heating system or in the modes of use. Now, in a month at above-zero temperatures outside, the device has consumed 600 m3. Tell me what could have happened and how to fix it?

    They could have changed the settings of the gas valve, maybe just because of the clock. Put on a room thermostat.

    In operation Vilant Turbo Tek 24, error f28 lights up what can it be? You restart the boiler and everything works, but after a day or two, this error pops up again.

    The same error popped up. I suffered with this problem for three weeks. The boiler turned off every day or two. First, we changed the board, it didn’t help, we installed it. They sinned on the power supply, put a transformer with galvanic isolation, a dielectric spacer from the gas hose. Some other events. Then I was advised to wipe the contacts (electrodes) that light the burner with alcohol. After that, the problem is no longer me
    worried.

    The gas boiler Turbotec plus VUW INT 362-3-5 does not start, falls into error 37, the exhaust fan does not start. Tell me how you can check it? 220 is supplied to the three-pin connector.

    The control board came out of standing, the one on the fan.

    Is it possible to put an additional pump to raise the return temperature? Since the system is large and designed for central heating. The burner works strangely, back and forth, you can hear it by the sound, because of this, as I understand it, the temperature jumps. Previously, it did not work like that, the burner is modulating, has caught up with the temperature and maintains it.

    Try the following:
    1.return the bypass back.
    2. turn down the heating power to such an extent that the error disappears. Once per 60 gr. works - it should work.

    Answer, who knows, in the Turbo Tek 24 kW boiler there should be a hot secondary heat exchanger and a return pipe from the pump (when operating with CO), although the return pipe itself at the inlet is not hot. The device heats up to 75 degrees (supply), but in fact it does not heat up the last batteries.

    Probably the pump of the heating system does not press through, but through the built-in regulated bypass of the heating system and goes back to the heat exchanger. Therefore, the last radiators and subcooled. Perhaps you need to look at the three-way. It drives water along the DHW circuit.

    Atmotec vuw int 240-3-3 gave error f28. After cleaning the gas valve, the indication of the flowing water temperature is incorrect, more by 15-20 degrees. The question is, what needs to be done so that the indication is correct, with the one that comes out of the tap?

    There is nothing you can do. It has been and always will be. This boiler does not have a DHW temperature sensor.

    When you turn on the program P.6, error f75 comes out, which indicates a malfunction of some valve. Do I understand correctly that the problem is that the scale has done its job? And you need to clean this valve between the circuits, if so, where is it located and how is it usually cleaned?

    Find the description of error F75 in the instructions. I don't think the 3-way valve is the cause. And the noises can indeed be caused by scale in the heat exchangers. Service the boiler by flushing the heat exchangers.

    Installed turbotec pro vuw 242-3. Why does the handle set the hot water temperature to 55 degrees, does it heat up to 75, while it goes into overheating? Is the temperature set with a knob or is it necessary to lower it in the settings to less than 65C +10 (C)? Everything is fine, but at this temperature, scale will form.

    This boiler does not have an NTC sensor on the DHW circuit. The display shows the temperature in the primary circuit (as with heating). Those. to heat the DHW to 55, the boiler keeps about 75 in the primary circuit in your case. All TEC Pros have this situation. DHW knob - to set the DHW temperature. The heating circuit temperature will not be 75, but slightly higher (by 10-20 degrees) than the DHW temperature you ordered.

    We carried out the repair as follows: the gasket between the volute and the pump head was replaced. Only it is still not clear how the water could get into the pump head through the drain hole.

    We installed and commissioned the Vilant Atmo Tek 24 boiler.When the burner is fired up, the piezo bursts for 5-8 seconds, the gas ignites, the piezo bursts again for 5-10 seconds, the gas goes out, the second ignition attempt begins. Firing up occurs in the same way as the first time, then the device works normally. I cleaned the piezo rods, the sensors on
    output, no results whatsoever.

    It is necessary to measure the gas pressure. Yes, and maintenance is required.

    1. Try to turn off the “auxiliary” pump altogether (if everything works without it).
    2. Disassemble the old pressure sensor (without a special tool, possibly with the destruction of the mount). Remove the rubber membrane - it may be covered with a hard "crust" (due to the operation of the boiler with diluted ethylene glycol and a dirty heat carrier). Remove the “crust” with alcohol - the elasticity of the membrane should be restored, that is, if a “crust” forms, then the ethylene glycol degradation products will follow you until the CO is completely flushed from antifreeze (this is not easy) and the pressure sensors will have to be changed regularly.
    3. Try to slightly “press down” the boiler feed service valve - it is possible that pressure surges when starting the pump will increase. You have a pump from the PRO boiler, but I don't see a big problem in this. Your boiler already has a built-in regulated bypass - the need for a jumper with a non-return valve is extremely doubtful. I suggest a 3-speed boiler pump, turn off the external one, watch the process. If possible, identify when F75 occurred - heating or DHW.

    Your boiler model does not have a pressure sensor. The thought of flushing and maintenance is good, but it doesn't hurt to look into the return filter as well. I would start by flushing the heat exchangers. Fill the heat exchanger with acid (hodgepodge) for half a day, clean both heat exchangers, also remove all tubes, clean the seats for the rubber bands, clean the 3-way valve, the filter mesh, where the pressure sensor, the pressure sensor may be overgrown with deposits on the membrane, so you need to restore it elasticity. Do this procedure and see. Further it seems to me it is necessary to look at the pump.

    Malfunction of the gas boiler Vaillant Atmotec pro VUW INT 240-3-3. When the boiler is fired up to hot water, a few seconds after normal ignition, a spark jumps between the ignition electrodes, the height of the burner flame drops sharply. Then, if the spark jumps again, then the burner goes out and error F28 pops up. If the burner is working for heating, and you open the water supply, everything works fine, the water heats up. Increased
    supplying gas to the gas valve, running the P1 diagnostic program, wiping the control electrode - nothing helps. If the control electrode is heated by the burner during operation for heating, then the burner also works for hot water. When starting the burner to hot water with the heating turned off, the situation described above occurs.

    It is very similar to a small current in the combustion detection chain. Was the ionization current measured by the specialist during his visit?
    1. Poor or no grounding.
    2. Presence of potential on the boiler drum.
    3. Malfunction of the stabilizer or uninterruptible power supply, if any.

    Installed and connected gas boiler Vaillant Turbotec VUW INT 240-3-3 (2007 onwards). About 3 days ago, he turned off the heating (reduced the temperature). Yesterday I left, and I was not at home for a day, I arrived - error F28 is on. Every day they turn off the light for a couple of hours now, I don't know if this has any meaning or not. I took the instructions and studied them. I tried to do a reset - it does not help. When turned on, some kind of valve buzzes, like on the water supply. And there is not even an attempt to ignite, it is immediately reset to error F28. If you turn off the gas main, everything is the same. Still such a moment, no one lives in the house and gas. tiles are rarely used. When the gas is turned on, it seems like air flows for a while, because sometimes the match blows out, and the burner does not ignite. Maybe there is a need to bleed the air in the boiler? Or the reason is the gas valve. What else to see at the F28?

    The presence of gas on the boiler. Achieve stable combustion of gas on a gas stove. Then try to start the boiler.It may not start right away until all the air from the line is bled.

    Vaillant VUW INT 240-2-3 R1 wall-mounted boiler malfunction. Yesterday suddenly a LED on the panel lit up - a crossed out wick. I understand that he says that he cannot light a flame, but why is this happening? It seems that no one touched him. Ignition does not go, there is no flame. Last year we did prophylaxis. Red button - does not respond.

    Video (click to play).

    Once the error was not cleared - he cured it with a pencil, rubbed the key on the back, which is pressed against the board.

    

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