DIY boat repair

The reliability and durability of the duralumin hull of a motor boat largely depends on how carefully the annual spring repair is carried out.

In order to find all the large and small defects, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the case from the outside and from the inside. Dust is removed with a hair brush, oil stains - with a cloth soaked in gasoline. After that, the body is washed with warm soapy water, then with clean water, wiped and dried.

Most often, the owner of a duralumin boat has to deal with such damage to the hull as corrosion of the material, destruction of the paintwork, mechanical damage (holes, breaks, cracks) of the skin and kit parts, loosening of riveted and bolted joints. In addition, abrasion (wear during friction) of the keel and on the cheekbones causes a lot of trouble - here the protective coatings and cladding wear out the fastest during operation.

Most of the listed damages can be corrected by the cold method - without heat treatment of the body parts, the purpose of which is to impart the necessary ductility to the metal for bending the parts. If such processing is nevertheless necessary, then it must be borne in mind that duralumin acquires plasticity sufficient for bending the flange, aligning the bent edges of the sheet in the hole or bent corners of the set after heating to 600 - 700 °. In order to determine this temperature, they use a simple method: rub the workpiece on the back with soap; the moment when the soap turns black and determines the release of the duralumin. The metal restores its previous properties in about an hour after cooling in air.

In any case, the process of replacing damaged parts should be carried out gradually - one at a time and carefully so that the body being repaired does not lose its rigidity.

It is impossible to remove the rivets by chopping off the heads with a chisel, since in this case damage to the edges of the holes is inevitable, cracks and tears are formed. It is recommended to drill the rivets. To do this, you first need to screw the centers on the mortgage heads, substituting support from the side of the closing heads.

Then, with a drill, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the rivet shank, a hole is drilled to a depth equal to the height of the head. After that, the insert head can be easily broken off, and the rest of the rivet is knocked out with a beard, the diameter of which should correspond to the diameter of the rivet to be removed.

After removing the removable parts, carefully inspect the rivet holes, which will have to be reused. There should be no cracks or tears in the material in the area of ​​the holes. In all cases, it is recommended to re-drill the old holes for rivets of the nearest larger diameter when preparing for attaching new parts.

It is very important to identify and replace any loose rivets. Places of leakage along the seams are most often detected by the appearance of traces of corrosion at the rivets. Sometimes it is necessary to specially check the tightness of the joints with kerosene on chalk (this will be discussed below). When lightly tapping with a hammer, weakened rivets can be detected by a change in sound - it becomes deaf, rattling. As a rule, the holes under the weakened rivets are "developed" and have an oval shape. Such rivets cannot be “tightened”; they should be replaced with rivets of larger diameter with appropriate reaming of the old holes.

Dropped out rivets are also replaced with heads disconnected to a secret part flush with the sheet and with a bare sheet countersink.Most often, rivets near the transom are damaged from vibration of a running engine and in the middle part of the bottom, which takes shocks when moving on waves.

If a crack is found on the sheet, it is necessary, firstly, to limit its further propagation by drilling holes with a diameter of 2.5-3.0 mm at both ends, and, secondly, to put a reinforcing plate from the inside of the case. The overlay should cover the crack on all sides by about 25 mm; the material and thickness of the lining must be the same as on the skin being repaired (fig. 7).

Remove burrs and chamfers from the edge of the cut-out strip, mark and drill holes for the rivets. Having temporarily put the cover in place, drill holes in the casing through it, remove the cover, clean the contacting surfaces from chips and burrs, degrease with acetone or solvent. It is necessary to put a sealing tape under the cover or smear the place with an automobile sealant-gasket (this is somewhat worse).

Sealing small (no more than 60-70 mm in diameter) holes begins with the removal of the damaged section of the sheet. For easier marking, the cutout is usually given the correct circle shape. The diameter of the lining, which is installed from the inside of the case, must be 50-60 mm larger than the diameter of the cut-out, in order to provide the overlap along the entire perimeter, which is necessary for riveting with a double-row staggered seam with a rivet pitch of 15-20 mm.

A round insert-liner is placed in the cutout flush with the casing so that the gap between the liner and the cutout edge does not exceed 1 mm. The insert is riveted with a single-row seam with a 20 mm pitch (Fig. 8).

Larger holes are sealed in the same way, but the lining from the inside of the body is not made solid, but annular with an inner diameter 50-60 mm less than the diameter of the insert (Fig. 9).

In order not to spoil the appearance of the boat, riveting of all linings and fittings is recommended (if the thickness of the sheets allows) with countersunk head rivets.

In case of significant damage to the casing, it is necessary to replace the entire sheet or most of it. When replacing part of the sheet, it is better to place additional joints on the frames. The size of the overlap and all other connection elements must be made the same as at the nearest joint. Having removed the old sheet, you need to rinse the shelves of the kit adjacent to the casing with gasoline, remove corrosion, and prime and paint the cleaned places.

A new sheet is superimposed on the outside of the body and traced in place, trimmed to clean size; if necessary, knocking out it is given the necessary shape. Temporarily the sheet is fastened to the set with "assembly" bolts every 200-300 mm; the diameter of the holes for them is usually made less than the diameter of the rivets. If necessary, alignment spacers are laid between the set and the sheet - strips of D16AT duralumin (pre-primed). At the end of the fitting, full-size holes for rivets are drilled in the sheet, then the sheet is removed, and the contacting surfaces are cleaned and degreased.

A sealing tape is laid over all joints, the sheet is put in place and tightly crimped over a set of bolts. To seal the resulting joint, you can use thiokol sealants of the U-30M brand (according to GOST 13489-68) and UT-37 (according to TU 51-38-14-179-67). The basis of these sealants is a liquid low-molecular polysulfide polymer - thiokol, which, upon the introduction of vulcanizing agents and an accelerator, transforms at normal temperature into an elastic rubber-like material that practically does not shrink.

U-30M sealant protects metal surfaces in contact with fuel and water from corrosion. Due to its low adhesion to aluminum surfaces, it is applied on special adhesive subcoats.

Sealant U-37 protects surfaces to a greater extent from the effects of high humidity, sea and fresh water. It does not require adhesive subcoats.

To connect duralumin parts with cold riveting, anodized rivets from alloy D18P and less often from B65 are used. When repairing a case not from duralumin, but from an aluminum-magnesium alloy, rivets from AMg-5P must be used.

Below are some guidelines for riveting parts of varying thickness and uneven loading.

Seams along frames and stringers are best done in one row with F4 mm rivets, 30 mm pitch, along the zygomatic and keel profiles - with the same rivets, but in two rows in a checkerboard pattern with the same pitch; the deck can be riveted with rivets with a diameter of 3 mm, with a pitch of 25 mm. To clarify the required diameter of the rivets, you can be guided by the data in Table. 6.

If the strength of any node is checked by calculation, it must be assumed that when using the D18 material, the rivet shear force d = 3mm is 134 kg, d = 4 mm - 239 kg (at B65, 1.3 times higher).

The step along the waterproof joints is taken equal: along single-row seams 3-4d; along double-row seams 6-7d in a checkerboard pattern.

The length of the rivet rod when joining parts (two thicknesses) is determined by the formula:
1 = S + 1.5d.

It is recommended that riveting on the joints of the set and equipment assemblies be made with rivets with a semicircular or barrel-shaped insert head. To reduce the resistance to movement, it is better to rivet the bottom plating in the stern of the boat (planing platform) with countersunk head rivets from the outside; the rest of the bottom, side and deck plating can be riveted with flat-convex half-countersunk head rivets.

Before drilling holes for riveting, the sheathing sheets must be carefully "squeezed" - tightened to the set with bolts.

To ensure strength and tightness, the diameter of the drill when preparing the holes must be taken 0.1 mm larger than the diameter of the rivet. Holes for rivets in the gasket or tape must be dug with an awl; drilling after installing the tape is not allowed. The rivet holes should be free of edges, ragged edges and cracks.

The sockets for the embedded heads of countersunk and semi-countersunk rivets are countersunk at an angle of 90 °. The depth of the sockets for the countersunk insert head with the reverse riveting method should be 0.1 mm less than the rivet head height, and with the direct riveting method it should be equal to the head height.

When riveting the boat hull, the so-called reverse method is most often used, in which blows are applied from the outside of the hull (it is clear that this is more convenient than from the inside) on the mortgage head (if it is not flat, then through a crimp with a hole in the shape of the head). The formed head is formed inside the body by flattening the end of the rivet shank on the massive support. The shape and dimensions of the support must be selected locally - depending on the convenience of approaching the rivet rod to be broken.

Usually, the following tools are used during work: mandrel 1 (Fig. 10) - a steel rod sharpened on a cone, with the help of which holes for rivets are aligned when assembling parts; support 2 - massive steel or cast iron rod, which serves to press the insert head in the process of riveting in a straight way and casing 3 - steel rod with a hole (in the end in the center), the diameter of which is 0.5-1.0 mm larger than the diameter of the rivet; used to seal the parts to be joined around the rivet shank 4.

In fig. 11 shows a sketch of a fairly comfortable support for working inside the boat's hull.

When connecting parts of frame frames or other pre-fabricated units, it is more convenient to use the direct riveting method, when blows are applied to the riveted end of the rivet rod. If, when checking the quality of the seams by tapping or inspecting, rattling, poorly set rivets are noticed, they must be replaced with rivets of a larger diameter.

On the shelves of the frames, single dents and nicks with a depth of less than 5 mm in the absence of cracks can not be straightened at all. Sometimes, instead of straightening or replacing the frame, it is advisable to limit ourselves to duplication - by installing an overlay from a section of a suitable profile.

Small - up to 5 mm long surface (blind) cracks, in extreme cases, can be localized, as recommended above. Areas with obvious through cracks must either be removed or duplicated with reinforcing linings.

Cracks and local damage in one of the stringer shelves are repaired in the same way as on the frames. If the stringer breaks down over a relatively long length, the damaged area should be cut out and replaced with a new profile. The new section - the insert - is fitted to both ends of the remaining parts of the stringer as tightly as possible (the gap should not exceed 0.2 mm) and is connected to them using short butt overlays (Fig. 12).

After completing the repair, in all cases it is necessary to check the quality of the rivets produced.

The parts to be connected must fit snugly against one another. The rivet heads should be tightly tightened to the material without nicks and "tightening".

The minimum distance from the edge of the part to the center of the rivet should be at least 1.7 times the diameter of its shank.

In order to make sure that the body is tight, it is recommended to pour water into it (slightly above the cheekbone level) or to test the tightness of the seams using kerosene. The edges of the sheets and the heads of the rivets are coated on the outside with a chalk solution, and after it dries, the joint from the inside of the body is moistened with kerosene. In the event of a leak, kerosene spots appear on the chalk surface.

The repair of the hull ends with the restoration of the protective paint and varnish coating.

An aluminum boat, like any other, requires careful inspection and, if necessary, repair.

It is not always possible to entrust repairs to a specialist; often boats are repaired by their own hands.

Having carefully examined the aluminum boat, you should understand what kind of repair is needed.

Inspection begins from the bottom of the boat, for this it is turned over. Look for cracks, rusted spots, lost or loose rivets.

The transom of the boat experiences the greatest load during operation, and special attention is paid to it.

Of course, various breakdowns are possible, but in the article I consider only those that are inherent only in boats made of aluminum and its alloys.

One of the most common damage to an aluminum boat is corrosion. Often cracks are hidden under the corrosive spots. If you do not fight with it, then as a result, a hole will form in the bottom.

To determine the depth of damage, it is best to clean the bottom of the boat with a grinder. Peel to metal.

After rough cleaning, sand it with sandpaper, and if necessary, remove the old paint with a special remover. Then degrease, prime and paint.

When inspecting the boat, the hammer will help to determine the reliability of the rivets. It will be necessary to knock on each rivet, if it rattles and wobbles, then it will need to be replaced.

If the holes are developed, then a rivet of a larger diameter must be put in this place.

The most common rivets fail, which are located closer to the motor, they are most susceptible to vibration.

The next step will be to seal the cracks. Cracks on a boat are most often formed in a collision, for example, accidentally stumbled upon a driftwood. Cracks can be impressive and very small.

The smallest cracks can be repaired with zinc-doped tin-lead alloy soldering.

When working with aluminum and alloys, the problem arises with tinning, the oxide film interferes. There are several ways to solder aluminum, for example, you can use an alkaline anhydrous oil, for example, gun oil. Before soldering, clean the surfaces, moisten with oil, then remove the film with a soldering iron and solder. They also use a flux by applying it to the solder.

The only way you can fix holes and large cracks in your aluminum boat is with patches.

Patches can be riveted or welded.

Welding, in general, is best used in exceptional cases when it is impossible for some reason to rivet.

Not all aluminum alloys withstand welding, often the boat hull breaks next to the weld. Knowing this, experienced welders are usually reluctant to take up the job.

But still, welding is used for repairs. Therefore, if you cook, then you need to do it on both sides and only thin sheets.

If you are not a professional welder, you will have to transport the boat to a workshop. Aluminum boats are welded with argon.

The patch is placed on the inside of the boat. In order for it to be durable, all riveting rules must be observed.

The size of the patch should correspond to the size of the crack.

The material from which you make the patch should be exactly the same as on your boat.

If aluminum is combined with another metal, then a galvanic pair is created. This means that galvanic corrosion will occur at the junction, which will quickly destroy aluminum or its alloy.

For the same reason, it is not recommended to use a metal brush to clean the case.

It is necessary to observe the following sequence when installing a patch using a rivet:

Some people try to seal small cracks with cold welding or glass cloth, it is a waste of time. Such repairs are impractical, all of this will quickly fall off during operation.

After repairs, the boat should be painted with a special paint.

Folk omen: Young and inexperienced fishermen have the biggest catch!

Dear forum users!
I inherited Kazanka M from my grandfather - I want to repair it. Help with advice on how you can repair a worn keel?

And immediately the question is, is the keel rubbed visually, but is it flowing or not in this place yet?
The degree of repair depends on this, or you will have to fix the leak, or simply put a “protection” so that it does not rub further.

OK. Tomorrow I'll take a picture and post it.

> Dear members of the forum!
> I inherited Kazanka M from my grandfather - I want to repair it.
> Help with advice on how you can repair a worn keel?

There is info on keel repair, and more on the topic.
Link.

in the photo after renovation, lock after the season of dragging her from the barn into the water and back. but in this case, the height of the lining was not restored, but only the gap was closed

Here she is Kazanochka!

the keel is not leaking, but needs to be repaired. Epoxy, according to the above example, can you fix it? will not crumble during operation?

And the volshteyven disfigured someone's “kind” hands at the base, where it was kept, it was evident that there was nothing to do, I got upset today and spotted a small hole in the dent. How to repair?

and this is already my doing, my own tap was broken and the boat was leaking water. I had to dismantle it and insert a bolt with a rubber gasket, it turned out reliably, but probably not durable from a stainless steel. And here's another question that the protruding bolt will not interfere with the motor, otherwise the plans are to purchase a motroa.

Yeah, boat ”about the war. "
A stainless bolt is undesirable, a bronze plug is good. The motor will not interfere.
As for the keel, if the boat does not flow, then it is epoxy, and I would make the pad from an AMg strip on top of the old one with rare rivets.
Well, the body would be stripped and painted.

rip out all the dust from the crack and about. on the bottom of the lining there is a plasticine fence so that it does not flow down to the bottom. theoretically, you can make a new section of the lining (bending and so on to bring out the old one, inserting a new one, but it is difficult.) from epoxy with sawdust - duralumin shavings, you will get a monolith that will catch on all voids, reinforced with metal remnants, flow under the lining to prevent possible development of holes in the bottom metal and practically enough strength - metal-polymer material
by the way, you can not only sawdust but also pieces of duralumin shavings in those places that are not outside but inside the gap, of course, this is a mixture of epoxy with optics

> Yeah, boat ”about the war. "
> Stainless bolt is undesirable, bronze plug is good. The motor does not
> will interfere.
> As for the keel, if the boat does not flow, then epoxy, and I
> I would have made an AMg strip on top of the old one on rare rivets.
> Well, the body would be stripped and painted.

+10000 *-))))
And bodyage the epoxy on the advice of Yuri Yuryevich with sawdust.
Everything is recoverable!

the meaning of an additional overlay on top of the old one? here only at the transom you need to end-to-end - continue to rivet a piece of a new lining into the old holes. (I did this in one of the boats, it was also destroyed). I would have ruined the transom when restoring a bullet-free cauldron. cut the frames of the pretransom frame at the bottom, drill out the terrible native transom. open the freed sides with a bar at the top (not along the edge, because it will become much higher due to the spinning of the side that is curled in the drain, but resting at the level of approximately the future edge of the side and rapier to a width of at least the width along the bottom, but better wider). from a piece of metal, a new wide transom is riveted around the perimeter of the extended ass (fits very easily). we save the cauldron from its main curse - the blockage of the transom side inward (the reason for the main overkills), we increase the habitability of the transom space, the weight remains practically the same, boldly hang 30 forces (especially if you do it with the collapse of the transom side outward) .. (I did this in two cutoffs , but it would have to be destroyed even wider. in the photo, the side width is approximately equal to the width along the bottom)

—— I was upset and spotted a small hole in the dent today. How to repair? ——— one of the options: we screw a short self-tapping screw with a cap into the hole just below the stem line. we coat the self-tapping screw and the hole with an ordinary auto-putty. she will hold onto the screw. we grind the putty in shape. on the treated putty with liquid epoxy (it can be somewhat absorbed into the surface of the putty) on a piece of epoxy cloth, then again with a little sandpaper, so using reinforcing screws (you can screw a couple of small ones into the dent and wrap a wire between them) - the putty will not rip out the epoxy; it will not crack and will hang on the screw until it pulls it out

—— What is the meaning of the additional overlay on top of the old one? ——–
==========
Yes, in order to drag along the sand with a drag for 15 years and not look at the keel at all. Like armor, what the hell will she have, and if it gets worn out, it's elementary to rivet 20 rivets (on the entire keel) and replace the keel with a new one.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I am glad that I got to a good forum. Now I will dwell among fellow watermen.
I will definitely make a photo report when I start my renovation.

> Dear members of the forum!
> I inherited Kazanka M from my grandfather - I want to repair it.
> Help with advice on how you can repair a worn keel?

There is info on keel repair, and more on the topic.
Link.

Advised repeatedly, zero reaction. But there is no simpler and more practical keel than from a hoop. The whole north does this, then drags the boats along the ground with a tractor, on the ice with a blizzard - and does not bother. The only problem is with barrels, they have become rare. Today I had to carry hoops from the village for 1200 km)))

Is it possible to use a stainless steel pad? And that is, the store is small.
and along the way the question is what kind of riveting to take, will 3-ki be enough?

and in what proportion to stir epoxy with hardener?

> Is it possible to use a stainless steel pad? And that is, the store is small.
> and along the way the question is what kind of riveting to take, 3-ki is enough? and also epoxy with a hardener in what proportion to stir?

I do not advise, electrochemical corrosion can result from the difference in materials. Lumin only. Epoxy is supplied with different hardeners, the ratio is different, read the instructions.
An example of the manufacture and installation of an overlay.

Good luck.

Since here the topic about the repair of cauldrons has gone, I also have a couple of questions for connoisseurs. Many of my rivets are leaking, I will change. Then I want to rip off the old paint, otherwise my cauldron is like cabbage. There are 5 layers of paint and all are different.
In this regard, questions arise:
1. How to grease the rivets before painting to make it safer?
2.What paint for the case would you recommend?

Here, in fact, is my cauldron before the last repainting in 2003.

Before installing, I smeared the blind rivets with ordinary silicone sealant (which is for aquariums), no problem for 6 years!

Yuri Yurievich wrote:
we get rid of the cauldron
> from her main curse, the blockage of the pristine side inward (
> the reason for the main overkills)

Yuri Yurievich.
And on a broom with boules to be treated with a wedge under the motor?

I did it on mine. True on the 5th. Electric bus. 4 years, normal flight.

pag102 08 Oct 2012

pag102 12 Oct 2012

are there really no people working with polymers ((

There was a case. Two big objections are 1. adhesion. 2 temperature coefficient. extensions.
Unambiguously rivet.

pag102 15 Oct 2012

Can it be repaired with modern polymer materials?

When repairing AL bodies of some car brands, adhesive is widely used with the help of epoxy compounds and a secret liquid, which increases adhesion to metal, practically without cleaning it.
But if you clean it roughly, but to shine AL and immediately apply the compound, then I tried it myself and my hatch edging made of AD-31 is glued to fiberglass. I have been walking down the hatch with my feet for several years, and the connection is holding.
Why don't you give it a try on a test plate?

pag102 15 Oct 2012

VASYa2011 15 Oct 2012

it was the case of riveting an imported boat after being hit. pancake flows.
is there some kind of pneumatic tool?

The hammer should be much lighter than the support on the back side, otherwise adjacent joints will break. There are pneumatic hammers, they need air of about 6 kg / cm2 at a decent flow rate.
Post has been edited by Tribune: October 15, 2012 - 12:05

pag102 15 Oct 2012

VASYa2011 15 Oct 2012

The hammer should be much lighter than the stand.

And rivets, if duralumin, must be “released” before
installation, and the thiokol tape used to be used for sealing, now there are a lot of mastic-hermenics.

Rider 15 Oct 2012

"Treat like like like" (c) From my experience - polymers on Al alloys do not stick. The steel keel on Al Amur also caused bewilderment. Do not use welding either - the adjacent rivets will weaken and the seal will burn out.
Rivet.

steel keel on his first "Cupid" also discovered with surprise

There was a case. Two big objections are 1. adhesion. 2 temperature coefficient. extensions.
Unambiguously rivet.

Glue
adhesives have been used in the aviation industry for a long time, and there were no Cupids either.
on the first passenger jet "Komets", the metal skin of the wing and fuselage was glued. Concorde aircraft structures, made of aluminum alloy and designed for a service life of thousands of flight hours, are bonded together with epoxy-based glue. Changes in temperature and load must be assumed there are not boat. Airworthiness standards are apparently also present.
You can probably find something useful in the "manuals" for the repair of combat damage to aircraft in the field.
Post has been edited by Rider: October 15, 2012 - 15:26

Rider 15 Oct 2012

.. Probably you can find something useful in the "manuals" for the repair of combat damage to aircraft in the field.

in the next branch, the "guide" for the repair of combat damage and the protection of riveted hulls with fiberglass is already being written
5
rivets would probably go away with pleasure

SanychSan October 15, 2012

we have few such specialists. it was the case of riveting an imported boat after being hit. pancake flows. And a passing question. How should this procedure be carried out? about rivets like found information 2 types use. and what rivets? is there some kind of pneumatic tool? there is revenge that narrow completely from the inside you can't crawl

All this is riveted by the method of back riveting. They knock on the head, through a mandrel, or a pneumatic hammer (KP-14 = up to 4mm and KP-24 from 5 ki). Inside there is support (such with a shape along the profile - 2.5 kg, or less if you don't mind your hands). I recommend finding a riveter at the airport.

All this is riveted by the method of back riveting.They knock on the head, through a mandrel, or a pneumatic hammer (KP-14 = up to 4mm and KP-24 from 5 ki). Inside there is support (such with a shape along the profile - 2.5 kg, or less if you don't mind your hands). I recommend finding a riveter at the airport.

Reverse riveting is a delight, I couldn't do it. In such cases, he simply turned over the rivet (or changed to another head) and riveted on the other side. With a pistol, too, it should not be busting, too powerful requires a heavy mandrel, you cannot slip it everywhere and it is already difficult to hold it.
However, everything comes with experience. If your hands are not crooked, do not care where they grow from

SanychSan October 16, 2012

Reverse riveting is a delight, I couldn't do it. In such cases, he simply turned over the rivet (or changed to another head) and riveted on the other side. With a pistol, too, it should not be busting, too powerful requires a heavy mandrel, you cannot slip it everywhere and it is already difficult to hold it.
However, everything comes with experience. If your hands are not crooked, do not care where they grow from

Experience of 19 years. Riveter 5th grade airport Nizhnevartovsk.

Can we blast nada?
“In some cases, special types of rivets are used - explosive (AN — 1504).
Blast rivets have a recess (chamber) in the free end of the rod, filled with an explosive, which is protected from the penetration of atmospheric moisture by a layer of varnish. Explosive rivets are made with a diameter of 3.5; 4; 5 and 6 mm made of D18P wire. The length of the core of the explosive rivets is from 6 to 20 mm, the thickness of the riveted package is from 1.6-2.5 to 14.1-15 mm.

The explosive riveting process is different from conventional riveting. Here, an electric heater is used as a riveting tool.
Riveting with explosive rivets consists in inserting a rivet into a hole, in the free end of the rod of which there is a chamber filled with an explosive. With a light blow of a hammer (in a cold state), the rivet is upset. Then the tip of the electric heater 1 is placed on the insert head. Within 2-3 s, the rivet heats up, and at a temperature of 130-160 ° C, the charge explodes, while the end of the rod expands strongly and forms a closing head. "

Here
Post has been edited by Alessandro: October 16, 2012 - 14:00

SanychSan October 16, 2012

Can we blast nada?
“In some cases, special types of rivets are used - explosive (AN — 1504).
Blast rivets have a recess (chamber) in the free end of the rod, filled with an explosive, which is protected from the penetration of atmospheric moisture by a layer of varnish. Explosive rivets are made with a diameter of 3.5; 4; 5 and 6 mm made of D18P wire. The length of the core of the explosive rivets is from 6 to 20 mm, the thickness of the riveted package is from 1.6-2.5 to 14.1-15 mm.

The explosive riveting process is different from conventional riveting. Here, an electric heater is used as a riveting tool.
Riveting with explosive rivets consists in inserting a rivet into a hole, in the free end of the rod of which there is a chamber filled with an explosive. With a light blow of a hammer (in a cold state), the rivet is upset. Then the tip of the electric heater 1 is placed on the insert head. Within 2-3 s, the rivet heats up, and at a temperature of 130-160 ° C, the charge explodes, while the end of the rod expands strongly and forms a closing head. "

Cupid's keel is rubbed to holes))))))))

but Gregory and Radik got down to business.
reinforcement of 10 wire rod is just right.
will still serve for many years))))))

File comment: The frames are ice-bent.

P22-04-15_19.04.jpg [454.19 KB | Views: 9764]

Cupid's keel is rubbed to holes))))))))

but Gregory and Radik got down to business.
reinforcement of 10 wire rod is just right.
will still serve for many years))))))

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