DIY viburnum ebu repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of an ebu viburnum from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

A modern car is a high-tech device. It is enough to look under the hood and under the panel: sensors, wires, control units and other electronics are installed everywhere. The more expensive and presentable a car is, the more it is crammed with all kinds of equipment. As a rule, the more electronics, the more problems arise with this.

In any car, and Lada Kalina is no exception, the electronics are controlled by a small box - an electronic control unit, or simply an ECU.

The electronic control unit is also called a controller. Its main task is to collect information from all sensors, process and further return the corresponding commands to the executive units. The ECU is an element of the on-board network, it continuously exchanges data with other systems, for example, APS (traction control system), automatic transmission (automatic transmission), security system, climate control system, etc.

The controller is a visually small microcircuit, but its structure is quite complex. The ECU has several types of memory:

EPROM. Contains all executive control schemes, is responsible for fixing commands in accordance with a certain sequence. This memory contains calibration data or a standard for setting the operation of all processes, depending on the power and type of power plant, as well as other parameters (weight, transmission, etc.). The EPROM does not depend on external power sources, even if the on-board network is completely de-energized, all information will be saved.
RAM. The memory, which is completely dependent on the power supply of the on-board network, in case of violation of this condition, all information is deleted. As a rule, these are diagnostic codes and data necessary for the ECU to carry out calculations.
EPROM - electrical programmable memory device. Immobilizer combination codes are saved here. If this data is not in memory, then the engine will not be able to start. The system does not depend on power supply, the information is stored permanently.

Video (click to play).

The controller is a multifunctional device. It not only controls the operation of the engine, but also protects the car from unauthorized access.

The electronic control unit is located under the center console on the driver's side. To get access to it, it is enough to remove the protective panel. It is worth noting that the location for the ECM was chosen very poorly. The ECU under the console is often flooded with coolant, because the heater radiator and hoses are in close proximity. Therefore, many motorists strive to move it to a safer place as soon as possible.

The data that comes from the sensors contains various characteristics. For example, a mass air flow sensor (MAF) collects and transmits data on the volume of air supplied to the system - the more air the engine consumes, the higher its dynamic characteristics. If the figures are overestimated, this will inevitably lead to an increase in fuel consumption. The ECU on the Lada Kalina is able to track such deviations and report the malfunction to the owner, although it will continue to issue commands based on incorrect data.

The controller collects information about the following processes:

crankshaft and camshaft position;
intake air temperature;
reset errors;
vehicle speed;
body vibration amplitude;
on-board network voltage;
coolant temperature;
the content of impurities in the exhaust gases.

The ECU also transmits data about throttle position, fuel consumption, ignition angle and much more.

There are not many problems with the ECU. Basically, the failure of the controller occurs due to a power surge in the network. Other possible system problems:

The device often fails due to mechanical damage. For example, the device received a strong blow or prolonged vibrations were observed, which caused cracks in the soldered contacts and in other places.
The controller is overheating due to extreme temperature fluctuations. For example, in winter, some motorists start the engine at high speeds, trying to start it with a guarantee, as a result of which the ECM overheats.
Corrosion. Oddly enough, rust appears on the module due to frequent changes in air temperature and, as a result, a large amount of condensation.
Depressurization. For this reason, moisture gets inside, which leads to the failure of the device.
Lack of communication with the control unit. Occurs after intervention in the control system from the outside. Often this happens when they try to "light up" another car from one car with a dead battery. It is possible that the terminals are reset during engine operation with the battery, or the polarity is reversed when connecting (the terminals are reversed). Less often, the lack of communication occurs due to starting the starter without connecting power to it.

If the device is out of order for some reason, repair or replacement should be carried out only after performing a comprehensive diagnosis. The nature of the problem may indicate a problem with other systems. If they are not eliminated in a timely manner, then repairing or replacing the module with a new one will lead to repeated failure.

If the device does not work correctly or there is no connection at all, then you can notice this by the following signs:The absence of control signals for the ignition system, IAC, fuel pump and other devices, the operation of which is regulated by the electronic control unit, may indicate a controller malfunction.

This is easy to do; a screwdriver and a few keys will be enough for work. The most common transfer locations are as follows:

Attach under the insulation just above the rug in the front left.
On the duct above the glove compartment.

As a last resort, you can wrap the controller more tightly with plastic wrap or cover it with sealant. This option is not the most successful, since condensate will accumulate inside and the ECU will fail.

The whole work will take no more than an hour. Armed with a screwdriver and a 10 key, we proceed to dismantle:

Remove the plastic shroud from the front passenger side.
Access to the controller immediately opens, but it is not so easy to remove it. First, unscrew the self-tapping screw with a screwdriver and try to pull the ECU towards you. If it does not work, then remove the cover from the driver's side and press on this side.
After removing the ECU, you need to unscrew the mount on which it is fixed.
Now you can start installing in a new location. As an example, the place under the glove compartment shelf was chosen.
In the shelf, make three holes for bolts for 5 in places like on the computer. Then screw the controller to the shelf.

When installing, you need to be careful not to damage the wires. In such a simple way, you can avoid the possible flooding of the electronic control unit and the problems associated with this nuisance.The controller, or in the common people "brains", on Kalina is one of the most important components of the car, it is not for nothing that he received such a nickname. Without it, it is impossible to imagine the normal functioning of all vehicle systems. In addition, the ECU greatly facilitates the monitoring of the operation of the engine and the on-board network, helping to identify faults in a timely manner and eliminate them.Note!
To carry out the work on replacing the controller on the car, you will need to stock up on: Screwdrivers, or, to be more precise, you need a Phillips screwdriver, which will need to unscrew the fastening screw of the right lining, as well as a wrench that will need the minus terminal from the battery you can throw off!Summary:Where is the controller (ECU) located?
On all cars, it is installed differently and even on Kalina cars, depending on the year of manufacture, it can stand in different places, for example, on Kalina 2 (we do not consider such in this article) it stands under the carpet and, unlike the first Kalina, completely in another place, on the first Kalinas, unfortunately, the controller is so poorly located that when the stove faucet fails (When it starts to leak) it starts to fill up, in this regard, all his electronics quickly die and therefore in a very short time the controller becomes unusable and must be replaced, for clarity, where it is located on the first Kalina, you can see in the photo below, the arrow indicates the right lining of the floor tunnel and if you remove it, then you will have a controller in front of your eyes. Image - DIY viburnum ebu repair

Note!
We will give advice, when buying the first Kalina, we recommend that you first take up the controller, namely, transfer it from that place to another, otherwise if the stove faucet starts to fill it, then you will have to look for new money somewhere, and the new controller is not small money and therefore you need to take care of the one that is, so that you do not have to replace it with a new one (In this article, we will touch on the topic of transferring this part, so read everything carefully)!

When do you need to change the controller (ECU)?
In fact, it's not so easy to meet a broken controller, because they really live almost their entire life while the car itself is driving, but it can still either burn out or, due to an unfortunate location, it is generally filled with water, coolant, etc. ., maybe, as with the first Kalins, this happens (on them the controller is very unsuccessfully located from the factory), the symptoms of its failure are the loss of communication with the ECU (that is, you connect to it and the computer simply does not see it), as well as improper engine operation, improper operation includes engine triplet, misfires in the ignition system, incorrect operation of fuel injectors (they can either pour and fill the engine in this regard, or simply turn off and will not work) and the car may still not start, but after the appearance of these symptoms on the ECU, you need to think last, especially if you have moved it to a place where there is no moisture, just as we said, these control units eternal and almost never fail.

Note!
The best way to understand whether the control unit is working or is out of order is to put the exact same unit from a known serviceable car, it’s just that, unfortunately, it’s very difficult to determine its state, in addition, the unit can even communicate and show what is in There are no mistakes in the car, although it will not start the car itself or it will, but the car will not work correctly and will not develop its full potential and power!

Note!
When the ECU is removed, inspect it, there should be no cracks on it, if necessary, disassemble it by removing the cover from it (There the screws will need to be unscrewed from the side) and when the cover is removed and you have the board itself in front of your eyes, then the first thing inspect it and there should be no moisture on it and it should be in a normal state and nothing should be torn off from it either!

Withdrawal:
1) First, de-energize the entire on-board network, otherwise if water gets on the controller or on the wiring block when you disconnect it, it will immediately disable it, or the wires will burn out, but although even without water they can close the wires, therefore all the same, secure yourself by throwing off the minus terminal from the battery for this (For how to do this, read "in this article" in paragraph 1), then from the side of the passenger seat, or to be more precise, climb into the place where the passengers put their feet and there will be a side lining of the floor tunnel on the side, it is mounted on one screw, you unscrew it and then remove the lining as shown in the example of the left lining in the small photo.

2) As soon as the right lining is removed, at the very bottom find the control unit, it is attached with one screw to the heater body (This screw is indicated by the arrow in photo 1), you unscrew this screw and then remove the controller along the guides when it is removed , disconnect the block of wires from it, to do this, pull out the latch that attaches the block to the control unit (see photo 2) and then the block can be disconnected from the controller and thus it will be completely removed from you.

Installation:
The new controller is installed in the reverse order of removal, but during installation there are some nuances, firstly the immobilizer (This is only for the new control unit,therefore, if you don’t change it, then you don’t need to do anything) if you don’t have it disabled, you will have to retrain (For how to do this, read the article: "Training an immobilizer for a VAZ"), and secondly, install if you are going to do the same place the controller (which we do not advise you), then make sure that the controller brackets enter (the brackets are indicated by the red arrows, the heater in the photo, by the way, was removed for clarity from the car) exactly into the guides of the heater case.

Additional video clip:
Be sure to check out the video below, it tells why you need to move the control unit from its original place, and also shows where it can be fixed and with what all this is done.

The engine control unit of a car is, in fact, the “brains” of the car, on the operation of which all systems of the car depend. A number of factors indicate a malfunction of the control unit, however, it is possible to determine exactly what exactly has failed in the control unit with the help of high-quality diagnostics.

To carry out diagnostics, you need to contact a specialized car service, in which, using a special module and cable, specialists connect to the control unit and make its diagnostics. The module is connected to a special computer on which a program is installed that recognizes error codes that are displayed on the screen when diagnosing the control unit. If necessary, specialists also use multimeters.

Thus, the specialist captures various indicators in real time. It can detect throttle position, fuel ratios, or temperature, for example. Carrying out diagnostics for a variety of models of modern cars is not difficult, in addition, the computer's firmware is constantly updated, which means that the computer receives new data on new types of control units. After the diagnostic procedure has identified errors, specialists begin to repair the engine control unit, replace or restore the factory settings, resetting the errors that appear.

Repairing an engine ECU is a rather complicated and time-consuming process and is recommended only in cases where replacement of the control unit is impossible for any reason, or when replacement may become too expensive for the car owner. It is not recommended to repair the ECU with your own hands at all, there is a great risk of damaging the electronic "brains" completely, which will disable all the accompanying systems of the car.

There are many reasons why the electronic control unit fails or any malfunctions in its operation begin. Among the most common breakdowns, one can distinguish such as lack of visibility behind the ABS sensor, lack of contact with the ignition unit, injector operation controller, as well as lack of contact with various sensors, throttle position or temperature sensor. In addition, the control unit may fail as a result of mechanical damage or moisture ingress on the microcircuit. Thus, in the event of a malfunction in the unit, overvoltage may occur, which sometimes completely disables the system. Overheating, moisture ingress, rust, moisture - all this can cause damage to the electronic unit. Also, experts from numerous car services note a high proportion of calls to them by motorists who tried to repair the control unit with their own hands or entrusted this business to unprepared people. Image - DIY viburnum ebu repair

It is important to remember that an ECU consists of many complex connections, and therefore a poor-quality repair with your own hands can provoke serious problems in the operation of this unit. As for new car models, in case of problems with the control unit, a complete replacement of this element is recommended.If the car has a warranty, then it is worth contacting the dealership, where the ECU will be replaced with a new one, while there are some car models whose engine control unit repair is impossible even by professionals. In any case, you should first carry out high-quality diagnostics, then consult with a specialist, and only after that decide what exactly to do with the failed control unit.

Do you still think that car diagnostics is difficult? If you are reading these lines, then you have an interest in doing something yourself in the car and really savebecause you already know that:

STO lomat big money for simple computer diagnostics

To find out the error, you need to go to the specialists

Simple wrenches work in the services, but you can't find a good specialist

And of course you are tired of throwing money away, and there is no question of driving around the service station all the time, then you need a simple ELM327 AUTOSSCANER that connects to any car and through a regular smartphone you will always find a problem, pay off CHECK and save a lot.We have tested this scanner ourselves on different machines. and it showed excellent results, now we recommend it to EVERYONE! So that you do not fall for the Chinese counterfeit, we publish here a link to the official website of the AutoScanner. Image - DIY viburnum ebu repair

Greetings to you dear friends and readers of our site. In today's article, I would like to talk with you about the ECU controllers Lada Kalina 1 and 2. Well, if you look into the very structure of this post, then we will talk about where the ECU controller is located, how to dismantle it yourself, and of course interchangeability controllers.

So, the Kalina engine control unit is located at the very bottom of the console, between the floor and the heating radiator. It is accessed from the side of the passenger's feet.

To do this, you need to remove the plastic cover, which is attached with one self-tapping screw. We unscrew it and move the pad forward slightly along the direction of the car, after which it should completely disengage. We remove the cover to the side. Under it we see the following picture.

Location of the ECU controller on Lada Kalina

One of the most common problems encountered by the owners of Lada Kalina is the failure of the computer. Let's look at the main reasons for controller failure:

Failure due to a short circuit in the on-board network. Here, you can get by with a little blood and solder the main resistors, or it will lead to the complete combustion of the element.
Liquid hit on the panel of the unit, which will lead to complete failure. Usually the ECU is filled with antifreeze.
Illegal actions of third parties that will lead to damage to the ECU.
Other reasons not previously specified.

All these reasons will serve as a pretext for diagnosing and dismantling the car control unit.

In order to remove the ECU block on the Lada Kalina, you must perform the following procedure:

First you need to unscrew 2 self-tapping screws, the place of the first is shown with an arrow. The second is at the same level from the engine side. Before that, you must remember to remove the terminal from the battery. After unscrewing the screws, do you need to pull the block towards the passenger door? and he must leave from there along the guides. Sometimes it happens that the wires run into the carpet. Then they need to be corrected.
In order to remove the connector and disconnect the unit from the wires, you first need to: pull the connector lock to the side. The latch is a bracket. I think you can easily find it on the connector.

After the block filled with antifreeze has been removed, its initial inspection should be carried out. For these purposes it is necessary to remove 4 screws using an asterisk screwdriver. Then you should slowly remove the control board for a visual inspection. The most common failure is a burnout of the ignition coil output control key. In this case, repairs will not be able to help.

As a result of such a malfunction, Lada Kalina starts to work only on 2 cylinders, and sometimes refuses to start at all. You can cope with this problem in a stationary workshop. There, the damaged element will be removed, washed and dried. On the second place in terms of frequency is the burnout of the board. It is not difficult to find such a defect: the characteristic blackening of the board leaves no doubt.

Can the ECU be repaired in this case? The answer to this question can only be given in a service center, but experience shows that repairs will not help here. Complete replacement required. It so happens that sometimes the brain circuitry is mildly damaged. If this happens, then the car owner can get off easily. To restore the car's performance, you will need a little repair:

wipe the block with a dry cloth;
rinse with WD-40 many times and blow it out with a compressor;
rinse several times in alcohol and blow again with a compressor;
dry well, otherwise Lada Kalina will not move;
drying takes at least 1-2 hours.

I will give the table of interchangeability of the Kalina ECU... These data were not verified by me personally, but by one authoritative master for me. The interchangeability of these blocks applies only to blocks with factory firmware (that is, after installation, you do not need to reflash the block for your engine and sensors). So, in each line there is a block marking, firmware version and toxicity class.

Bosch 21114-1411020-40 with software B104CR01 (02) Euro3 (in my cases it was this one) can be replaced with:
Bosch 21114-1411020-40 with software В102СQ05 (CR06) Euro3;
Bosch 11183-1411020-02 with software B101CR01 (02) Euro2.

All of the above Bosch units can be replaced with domestic units January 7.2 and 7.2+.

Domestic blocks are all Euro 2, with the exception of M73 blocks - they are Euro 3. January 7.2 and 7.2+ blocks manufactured by Avtel or Itelma (Euro2) for Kalina 1.6l 8V:
7.2 11183-1411020-21 (22) with PO A (I) 201CO56 (57) (58);
7.2+ 11183-1411020-21 (22) with software A (I) 201CP57. There is no air conditioner on these support units, as I understand it
And, in fact, blocks M73, which are suitable for Kalina. These blocks are all Euro 3:
М73 21114-1411020-41 with software А303CE05 (CF06) Euro3 (support the air conditioner);
М73 21114-1411020-42 with software I303CE05 (CF06) Euro3 (support the air conditioner).

Thus, all of the listed ECUs with the Euro3 toxicity class can be changed without hesitation (only if they have factory firmware). It is also possible to replace a block with a Euro3 class with a block with a Euro 2 class, but the other way around is not possible. All markings are located on a white plate stuck on the ECU cover. Further, I consider it necessary to consider the option of replacing the block with a used one and one that was in a car with an activated immobilizer, since in this case there is one unpleasant feature.

Repair VAZ Kalina, electrical circuits VAZ Kalina, generator Kalina, starter Kalina

On the issue of repairing the ECU of cars "Kalina"

On the threshold of winter, I would like to share my thoughts on some of the troubles that Kalina presents to us. In these considerations, the reasons for the appearance of coolant in the ECU will not be clarified. The consequences of her being in it will be shown here.
It all starts simply. The car drives as if nothing had happened, the driver turns off the engine, goes, for example, for bread (the easiest option), or sits all day fishing (a more problematic option). Then he cannot start the engine, and tows the car to the garage without removing the terminal from the battery (the most problematic option).
Let's start looking at the options in order of difficulty. The option is the simplest. The block was flooded, it was removed on time and "dissected". Here's what we have (see photo):

What do we see? A coolant of unknown origin, using a process called electrolysis, under the influence of an electric current, lays conductive paths with resistance from units to tens of ohms, depending on temperature and humidity. This is enough to prevent the engine from starting.Below is a snapshot of slightly higher magnification:

There is nothing particularly terrible. We take a cleaning agent, something like a Fairy, and thoroughly clean the board with a dishwashing sponge and brush. We perform the same procedure with the lower cover of the unit body (if it is January 7.2). Then we dry it for a long time, for example, heat it in the oven at 50-80 ° C.
Everything. Putting the block together and the problem is solved. The block must be fixed above the shelf with double-sided tape. The length of the bundle is quite sufficient.

The next option is a little more complicated.

Coolant, again of unknown origin, using the same process, destroys the pad, metallization, and vias (known as via).

Moreover, this liquid also creates a galvanic path with a resistance of several ohms. This, at a glance, is enough trifle to ensure that the engine will never start. Moreover, there may be a sufficient amount of such damage in the block. The main thing is to have the patience to find them all. It is treated quite simply. It is necessary to clear the path that has arisen and solder the interlayer well. In the sense - it is good to warm up, get rid of oxides, and prevent the solder from protruding above the plane of the lower side of the board (the so-called solder layer). Otherwise, the polyester insulator, glued to the bottom cover of the unit body, will be squeezed through. January 7.2. We fill the channel of the galvanic path with rosin with alcohol, or some kind of varnish. Note that alcohol-rosin flux type LTI-120 is not suitable for pouring. There, in addition to rosin, there are many more incomprehensible components. They can disrupt the normal operation of the ECU.
The BOSCH ECU is a little more complicated, more on that later.

This is how the damaged area looks after repair:

Well, the penultimate situation in terms of complexity. The car stood in the garage for a long time, and at this time the block was long and stubbornly eaten away by TOSOL. By the way, I still don't understand the difference between antifreeze and antifreeze. Indeed, in fact, "antifreeze" means "non-freezing", and TOSOL is one of the brands of antifreeze, nothing more.

Actually, this is what we are talking about:

The problem is that the vias between the top layer (component) and the inner layer, or the bottom layer (solder) and the inner layer, are corroded. Let me remind you that BOSCH7.9.7, January 7.2 and VS blocks are made on a three-layer printed circuit board. Therefore, the lower and upper layers can be simply connected with a wire or solder bridge when the metallization is destroyed. But with the inner layer, we will not succeed. Having a schematic diagram or a working block (by calling via), we can duplicate the conductors of the inner layer with hinged wiring. But these wires can only be mounted on the top side of the board (component layer), in the version January 7.2. The jumpers on the bottom layer will prevent the assembly of the block body.

The photo shows that the via is completely eaten away.

Having no idea about the circuits, which are made by the inner layer, we cannot animate the block. Unfortunately, it is only suitable for spare parts.

But that's not all. Here is a photo of the same via with a slightly different plan:

It can be seen that the liquid penetrated under the layer, and from this it swelled up. It is difficult to remove antifreeze from there. It is necessary to drill the visible layer to half the thickness of the board, warm it up thoroughly and fill it with WD-40 liquid. This isn't torture, is it? Moreover, the block is already corrupted anyway.

In addition to corroded areas and metallization, there is carbonization of fiberglass. The color rendition of the camera is slightly distorted due to its low quality, and in fact it is not entirely correct to take pictures through the eyepiece of a microscope with a household camera.

Actually, everything is clear here. But such a case is also quite simple to restore.

There is also a very interesting point that should be focused on. It consists in the following. The unit was repaired, after which it works on the table. The car leaves, and the next morning it starts up, and as the interior warms up, it stalls. The physics of the process is simple. The block is cooled overnight.In the morning, they started the engine, turned on the stove, warm air flowed, and condensation forms in the cold block on the printed circuit board. And that's it, the engine stopped. And the reason is simple. We didn't pay attention to the bottom cover of the unit. Close inspection reveals dark dots on the insulating film. If we look at them through a microscope, we will see banal through holes. I don't understand how and with what polyester film (lavsan) can be eaten like this:

Through these destruction of the film, perfectly distinguishable in the photographs, a closure to the block body occurs. And through other holes, several circuits are connected, and the normal operation of the ECU is disrupted. Note that the case is insulated, and one hole won't hurt us in any way. And it is treated quite simply. Tear off the film and glue it back with an offset of 2-3mm to the right - up. We cut new holes for fasteners. The very place of destruction is covered with paste KPT-8. What's wrong? Normal insulator.

Now a few words about ECU BOSCH 7.9.7. German engineers know how to make printed circuit boards so that they are practically irreparable. There are three main layers, but along the perimeter, excluding the connector footprint, a couple more layers are made. Tracking the progress of German engineering while sitting in a forest is difficult. Of the twelve BOSCH blocks sent to me, I managed to restore only three.

The picture shows "mold" on the tracks and on the lower right and left via. What can I say? Blow off capacitors, clean thoroughly with Fairy, varnish the tracks. Via solder. Moreover, these ECUs must be processed with a sufficiently powerful soldering iron. I don’t think that foreigners in the inner layers design thermal barriers (they are not observed on the visible layers either), so the site should be heated “in an adult way”. But not in terms of temperature (no more than 280-300 ° C), but in terms of the heat capacity of the soldering iron.
Further, one more remark. How to properly solder a via if it has undergone electrochemical corrosion. I don't have much choice in the forest, so I use a flux to solder aluminum.
Like this:

Naturally, the option is not the best, but acceptable. Although it is written on the bottle that it is not necessary to wash off the flux, this raises doubts. Therefore, we will use Faerie again.

Below are examples of remanufactured defective boards:

This is a photo of "defeated" defects from shots 9-12:

Video (click to play).

and you decided that the block cannot be restored, give it to me. A? Any mail will send it for 50 rubles, including packaging. The sending address can be found in the PM.

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