In detail: do-it-yourself repair of egur opel astra n from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Opel cars are quite popular among our car owners, and they are serviced in many places. But if we consider such a serious breakdown as a malfunction of the EGUR (electrohydraulic power steering), then you cannot do without a truly qualified specialist. It is these professionals who work in our specialized workshop, where we carry out all the necessary types of work from diagnostics to repairs.
TRW1 pumps were first produced back in 1998 and were the first variation. There are certain difficulties in the complex maintenance of this part, but at the same time there is a block that is responsible for adjusting the speed. We have been working in this area for a long time and have accumulated enough experience to cope even with such malfunctions that other auto repair shops may not tackle.
The technique is gradually being improved, the innovations have also not been spared by the EGUR Opel Astra N. In particular, the amplifier pump has an electronic control unit and the ability to conduct more detailed diagnostics. Especially computer diagnostics, taking into account the necessary physical parameters, helps in this. Thanks to this technical improvement, it has become easier to repair the Opel Astra H EGUR pump.
The subsequent update of the Astra N filling turned out to be quite good for motorists. The installed new power steering has a can-bus, which makes it possible to receive the necessary signals from the ABS system. Also in the car there were sensors for the location of the steering wheel. However, now what has become simple on the one hand, has complicated the system on the other, the presence of additional electronics.
A considerable number of car owners began to acquire their driving experience by driving simple domestically produced cars with a steering column or rack. When, after driving such a car, it becomes possible to change to a vehicle equipped with EGUR, the driver experiences great relief from how easy it is to turn the steering wheel.
This is the main purpose of this mechanism, which allows you to drive a car more comfortably. This rather complicated mechanism requires attention from the driver, who must not forget about its regular maintenance. Our experts can help you with this, who know for sure how to carry out high-quality repairs.
Video (click to play).
In fact, EGUR is a modernized steering rack with a set of new functions that make it easier to steer a car. In different cars, they may differ slightly structurally, just as they may differ in the Opel Astra, depending on the features of a particular model. Our masters understand well all the subtleties of repair that a particular car has.
Oil pump.
Expansion tank.
Distributor.
Power hydraulic cylinder.
Pressure regulator.
Hoses and connectors.
It also includes a housing, rotor and O-ring. A special pump is responsible for creating and maintaining the required pressure of the working fluid that provides movement.
A seemingly not very complex device requires careful handling when carrying out repairs. Our masters, specializing in the repair of EGUR, will be able to tell you about its structure and the principle of operation in more detail.
EGUR malfunction is one of the problems of almost every car that many car owners face. It is not necessary to know in detail about each of them, but it is enough just to understand the most common ones.Such useful knowledge will not be superfluous, and the driver will be able to react in time so that a more serious breakdown does not occur before he reaches the service.
The main signs of malfunctions in the operation of the EGUR Opel Astra H:
Unstable operation of the system as a whole.
There is a kickback from the steering wheel.
Difficulty turning the steering wheel.
Well audible drive noise.
When any of the above symptoms appears, it is necessary to diagnose the entire system. For this, our workshop has special computer equipment that allows you to read error codes. After obtaining information about the state of the EGUR in this way, it is possible to carry out better repairs, without the need for a long search for the cause of the unit's malfunctioning.
First, the car owner must regularly check the power steering fluid level. If the quantity is insufficient, it must be topped up to the required level. You also need to check the system for leaks, since this is what this problem is most often associated with. It can also happen that air has entered the system, or perhaps the EGUR elements have simply worn out.
Also, problems can arise due to problems with the tires, and in order to find out it is necessary to check the tightness of the system. It is necessary to remove excess air, and then check the quality of the wheels. If there are problems with the belt, which affects the fact that beating may appear in the steering wheel, you will need to replace it with a new one and check the correct tension.
The reason may be insufficiently good operation of the pump or its complete breakdown. To determine the cause of such a malfunction, you will need to carry out a complete diagnosis. At the same time, you need to check the oil seals, which over time can fully deplete their resource. When the system is depressurized, noise may appear, which is given by the working fluid coming out of it.
Our specialized car service will make prompt and high-quality repair of the EGUR of your car at an affordable cost. The availability of modern equipment and stock of the most demanded spare parts allows us to guarantee a high level of work performed. We install only high-quality parts that are recommended by the direct manufacturer.
The main stages of the repair of EGUR on the Astra H:
Primary diagnostics of the node performance.
Diagnostics using computer equipment.
Selection of new and replacement of faulty parts of the mechanism.
Assembling and checking the work performed at the stand.
Final diagnostics with adjustment.
If after the diagnostics it turns out that it is impossible to repair the EGUR Opel Astra H, then we will completely replace the entire unit with a completely new one. For these purposes, we have a large number of different spare parts in stock. The craftsmen regularly check the availability of the most necessary things so that each next client can quickly receive the necessary repair services, without the need for a long wait.
Egur did it a couple of days after the breakdown, but his hands didn’t get to write a note.
It can be removed quite simply on a 1.3 diesel engine, except that he only folded a few mats when unscrewing it from the bracket, which is at the wall.
Further on autopsy: First of all, I heated the roof with a hair dryer and it was very easy to take off. Then I unscrewed everything that could be done (here I hurried a little, because it was enough to unscrew the pump) The next step was to remove the cover on the bottom. Hemorrhoids are even more so. The Fritzes did not regret the sealant. As a result, I took off everything and cleaned it up.
After opening, I found a cracked transistor. I thought for a long time whether to remove the control board or not, I decided to remove it, and for good reason. As it turned out, the smd element burned out.
Fortunately, the comrades helped with the scheme. Feet in hand and to the electronics and bearings store.
I bought components, an oil seal and two bearings. All soldered, assembled, glued. And installed it in the reverse order. When pouring a new liquid (I took febi) I noticed that the old one was rather cloudy.
As a result, everything works with a bang.With a successful combination of circumstances (weather, shop and spare parts availability), everything can be done in a couple of days.
Now the most important thing is sources for repair and spare parts. Sources:
Parts I used: 1) Bearing 6000-C-2Z 2 pieces (closed housing), price 150 rubles per piece 2) Oil seal 10x19x7 (2.2 ″) with a spring inside 1 piece, price 21 rubles 3) Transistor IRL2505PBF N-channel 55V 104A 1 piece, price 95 rubles Analog Transistor IRL3705NPBF N-channel 55V 89A 4) Chip resistor 0.125W 22 Ohm, 5% SMD0805 1 piece, the price per piece is 8 rubles. 5) 06161 Synthetic hydraulic oil Febi (green), 1 liter, price 538 rubles 6) Silicone sealant ABRO 999 gray, price 220 rubles
Where to get the oil and sealant is not a question, but finding the right electronic components and an oil seal with bearings was not particularly easy. NOT ADVERTISING, but to help - I took electronics in CHIP and DIP, and the oil seal and bearings in Standard Bearing.
Good day to all!)
In general, after replacing the bearings in the generator, the whistle did not disappear. We have such a bespant sound on a cold one. Having smoked the forums, I realized that it was an egur. With a mileage of 150-200 thousand km, the grease in the bearing is all produced and the egur begins to die, by the way, this is a very common problem on asters G and J.
I removed the 80A fuse under the hood responsible for the operation of the EGURA and thus once again made sure that the problem was in it.
Whistling due to the fact that the grease in the bearings in the egur is all worked out.
For repairs we need:
3. High quality sealant (I took Victor Reinz-black)
4. Desirable pit or lift
5. Regular ring wrench for 14, 19, 10.
6. Torx (I don't remember the number, I had a set)
7. Any degreaser (gasoline, white spirit, etc.)
The work done took me a carriage + still a lot of time. I climbed into that area for the first time and in order not to break off anything superfluous, not to tear it off, I had to work hard. So, let's begin.
We drive into the pit, in my arsenal there was a pit in my uncle's garage. The first time I took off the egur was for the holidays on February 22-23. The garage was not heated and it was not very comfortable to work.
Some pictures will not be mine, tk. there was no opportunity to take pictures.
1. Remove the crankcase protection by unscrewing 4 bolts by 14 around the perimeter.
2. We see our patient. In order not to tear off the gas analyzer cable, disconnect it and put it aside.
3. It is necessary to disconnect the return hose and the supply hose. The supply hose is screwed into the egur body like a 19 nut. The return hose is fastened with a clamp to the egur plastic piping.
4. EGUR is attached to the bracket with 3 bolts, and screwed with 3 nuts on “10”. We unscrew 3 nuts by 10, I got a 10 spanner wrench. Although this procedure was not convenient to carry out, to put it mildly.
5.Then we unscrew the bracket, it is fastened with two nuts 14 and one bolt with a head at 19, this bolt goes through the entire subframe. (The design is the same as for the generator mount)
6. Remove the battery, then remove the battery seat. We open the fuse box under the hood. We take out the purple chip, which is responsible for the work of the egur. And we disconnect the harness block going to this fuse box. Cut off all the clamps that attach our braid to the car body.
7. Now you need to pull out the bracket on which the egur is attached. We take it out of the gas analyzer cable area. Then, in the same way, we take out the egur itself.
Now we start operating.
8. Remove the iron clamp from the plastic barrel.
9.We heat the plastic tank at the bottom
10. Remove the plastic tank.
11. We removed the pump, we see the coupling, REMEMBER how it stood. We remove it, we see the C-shaped retaining ring, we remove it with the help of a special. puller or Che will come to hand =).
then we clean off the factory gasket.
Remove the cover, then remove the rotor
Then we turn the aegur over and also knock out the upper bearing and the oil seal with a screwdriver.
When assembling the entire structure, place the plastic tank on a sealant, and instead of the factory gasket, also use a sealant before degreasing the surface. When parsing, I broke the pipette on which the return hose is attached, I found the Opel Astra Club in the community. Special thanks for helping Artyom for the tank that he sent me, Vitalik88163, minicar for the consultation and my uncle who helped me a little with advice and who is not on the drive)
Oil seal: 100r delivery, 50r cost.
The problem is solved, nothing whistles to the cold)
