In detail: do-it-yourself electrolux repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Among the many brands of washing machines, Electrolux is in constant demand and popularity. Modern models are distinguished by wide functionality and convenient control. But, in any technique, sooner or later, various malfunctions and breakdowns occur. You have to contact warranty service centers or try to repair your Electrolux washing machine with your own hands. Self-diagnostic capabilities allow you to identify a breakdown and take timely measures to avoid more serious consequences.
A similar situation occurs quite often. First of all, this may be due to the lack of electricity. For various reasons, knocks out a circuit breaker, mainly due to a short circuit. Sometimes the residual current device is triggered when there is a current leakage to the washing machine. RCD tripping often occurs due to poor-quality wiring. Lack of power is often due to a faulty outlet.
Another reason is often a surge protector. For testing purposes, it is recommended to plug the washing machine directly into a power outlet. Sometimes the cord itself from the machine is faulty, constantly experiencing mechanical stress. A multimeter is used to detect a breakdown. If there is a break, it is recommended to completely replace the wire, since twisting will not provide reliable and stable operation.
Quite often the power button fails. In some Electrolux models, it is directly powered. When checking, the washing machine must be de-energized. The functionality of the button is checked using a multimeter turned on in buzzer mode. During the test, the button is alternately switched on and off. In the ON position, the multimeter will beep, which indicates its working condition. In the off position, the button will not be detected.
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Sometimes the problem is a faulty noise filter. The filter dampens the electromagnetic waves generated by the washing machine. If it breaks down, the electric current stops flowing through the circuit and the washing machine does not turn on. The filter is checked by dialing. At its input there are three wires - phase, neutral and ground, at the output - only phase and zero. If there is voltage at the input, but not at the output, then the filter is faulty and needs to be replaced.
The most serious reason for not turning on the Electrolux washing machine is associated with a malfunction of the control module. Replacing the entire device is very expensive and the control unit can be repaired by yourself. However, it is far from always possible to do this at home, therefore it is in this case that it is recommended to use the services of a service center.
Most washing machines are installed in the bathroom, therefore, in accordance with the PUE, they must be protected from leakage currents using a separate RCD or differential machine. However, situations often arise when protective devices start to work constantly for no apparent reason. There are several of the most probable options due to which such an unplanned actuation occurs.
First of all, triggering can occur as a result of incorrect connection of the differential machine. This happens when attempts are made to a zeroing device, in the absence of a grounding wire. In another case, the phase is passed through the device, and the working zero is simply duplicated or connected directly to the common zero bus.According to the rules, the current of the phase and neutral conductors passes through the internal circuit of the protective equipment. Part of the current passing through the common zero bus is perceived by the RCD as a leak, so the power is immediately turned off.
Another reason is a defective protective device. Before checking the RCD, all outgoing wires are disconnected. After that, voltage is applied to the switched on RCD or differential machine and the TEST button is pressed. As a result, the protective equipment should be disabled. If this does not happen, then the RCD is faulty and must be replaced.
If the RCD is working properly, you should carefully inspect the washing machine itself and assess its condition. This applies to old units, since it is they who have damaged internal wiring, worn insulation of the electric motor windings, deformed housings of internal parts and other breakdowns that can cause current leakage. The check is done with a multimeter by checking the resistance between the machine body and the plug electrodes.
If all the previous checks did not reveal any faults, then the reason is most likely a faulty electrical wiring. It can be pierced by a nail or self-tapping screw, too tightly packed in a panel or junction boxes. The ingress of moisture is quite often observed. These malfunctions are especially pronounced when the insulation is damaged or worn out. If no damage can be found, the entire cable line must be replaced.
A characteristic feature of modern Electrolux washing machines is the absence of dependence on the presence or absence of hot water in the water supply system. The unit heats it up to the required temperature by itself. Therefore, the situation becomes rather unpleasant when the collected water does not heat up and remains cold.
The fault can be detected approximately 30 minutes after the start of the wash. It is enough to put your hand on the glass of the sunroof, and if it is cold, then the water does not heat up.
- The main cause of the malfunction is considered to be the incorrect installation of the washing machine, when the heights of the pump and sewage system do not correlate with each other and do not provide a normal drain. In this case, water entering the tank immediately leaves the machine through the drain. The heating itself occurs, but due to the constant flow of cold water, it simply does not have time to warm up.
- The wrong wash mode is selected. Some of the programs are not designed for strong water heating and the heat will not be felt through the sunroof.
- Breakdown of the water heater - heating element, after which the machine simply stops heating the water. This is mainly due to the formation of scale, leading to overheating and burnout of the heating element. It often fails under the influence of voltage surges in the electrical network.
- Sometimes the heating stops as a result of the failure of the temperature sensor. This leads to an automatic stop of water heating in order to avoid overheating of the heating element.
The greatest problems are created by a faulty control module that controls all processes, including water heating. In this case, independent actions can only aggravate the situation, therefore it is recommended to contact the service center.
If water is not collected, do not panic and immediately run to the service center. First of all, you need to try to figure it out on your own and check for the presence of certain reasons.
First of all, you should make sure that the water supply is working properly. Sometimes there is simply no necessary pressure in the urban network. In some cases, the owners forget to open the tap that supplies water to the washing machine, which was closed after the previous wash.
If the water supply system is working properly, then the reasons for the lack of water in the tank are related to the washing machine itself. This could be an inlet valve clogged due to poor quality water. The valve may burn out due to voltage surges and other electrical problems.If the heating element is broken, the washing program is not activated and water is not drawn. Another reason is a faulty control board. Not everyone can deal with complex electronics on their own, so most often the only correct way out is to contact a service center.
If the water is in the Electrolux washing machine, it does not drain. There are also certain reasons for this malfunction.
Most often, it's all about a clogged drain filter, pipes or sewer. Therefore, these elements require careful cleaning. These actions are not repairs and relate to maintenance work that you can perform yourself.
If there is no blockage, it is imperative to check the pump or drain pump, which is constantly in contact with water. If a malfunction is found, the device must be replaced. Often the pressure switch, that is, the sensor responsible for the water level, fails. An incorrect signal supplied by it leads to incorrect operation of the control module. Another reason may be a faulty board or a software failure, which are repaired in specialized service centers.
The Electrolux washing machine begins to emit extraneous sounds in the form of a creak, crackle, noise and others.
This can happen for the following reasons:
- Loose drum pulley fastening, accompanied by a jerky whistle and crackling sound. Such fasteners are unscrewed and re-installed on the sealant. A pulled pulley must be replaced.
- A foreign object has fallen between the drum and the washing tub, as evidenced by a hum and creak during operation.
- Failed bearings are indicated by vibration and hum, like an airliner. At first, under the influence of moisture, the seals that seal the shaft wear out, and then the bearings themselves begin to rust and break. As a rule, bearings and seals are replaced at the same time.
In addition, springs and shock absorbers can be worn out, causing the entire unit to rumble. In this case, the reservoir is displaced and tilted, therefore, during operation, it knocks against the inner walls. The same happens when the counterweight fails. All defective elements are subject to mandatory replacement.
By the symptoms of defects in Electrolux washing machines, we mean any external manifestation of a malfunction, for example, extraneous sounds during operation, too long work, inability to perform any stage of the washing program, and so on. It is the symptoms of breakdown that force the user to act (call the wizard or look for the cause on his own).
But the problem is that some malfunctions occur before symptoms appear and hardly manifest themselves. For example, wearing rubber pads will not show themselves in any way until a leak occurs. But let's return to the typical symptoms of malfunctions of Electrolux washing machines, to begin with, we will list them, but in the subsequent paragraphs we will deal with their detailed decoding.
- The machine washes in cold water, does not heat it up, even if the program specifies otherwise.
- The machine cannot fill up the water.
- The washing machine cannot drain the waste water
- The machine does not go to the rinse cycle or skips it without rinsing the laundry.
- The washing machine does not spin.
- The machine cannot pick up the powder from the cuvette and washes without it.
- The washing machine does not turn on or turns on every other time.
- The machine, when turned on, almost immediately knocks out the machine.
For your information! These symptoms are found on Electrolux washing machines more often than others, which is why we are considering them, but in fact there are much more such symptoms.
The washing cycle assumes that the Electrolux washing machine will fill and drain water for the entire duration of the program. One portion of water is required for washing, another for rinsing. She will also need to drain the water after spinning, and if there is a drying mode, then after it. But what happens if the machine cannot fill the tank with water, then the machine will not be able to execute the program and will freeze.
In a similar situation and in many others, the manufacturer insured himself by providing an error recognition system. In the event of a malfunction, the washing machine will display an error code on the display, which can be deciphered using the user's instructions and understand what exactly is broken. In particular if the machine does not fill in water, an error E11 should pop up on the screen.
- the filler valve does not work;
- no water supply;
- the water filter installed in front of or on the inlet hose is heavily clogged.
What can you do in such a case with your own hands? You need to start with the simplest thing, check if there is water in the tap, perhaps we are not talking about a malfunction at all. After that, you should check whether a filter for water purification is installed near the inlet hose (or on it). If it is there, it is necessary to shut off the water on the riser pipes, and then carefully unscrew this filter and clean it. Some manufacturers' water filters cannot be cleaned; in this case, you will need to buy a new filter and replace the old one..
Note! Flow-through filters are good because dirt will not pass through them into the machine and will not arrange a blockage inside, but there is a problem, they need to be changed in time. If you forget, the filter can become clogged with dirt, stopping the water supply to the machine.
If the problem is not in the water supply or in the filter, then you need to check the inlet valve. To carry out such a check, you will need to use a multimeter, some have problems using this device. But if you figure it out, the rest is simple.
It may turn out that the machine can fill in water, but not drain. In this case, the wash program is activated, the wash ends, but the rinse does not start, since the waste water will remain in the tub. In this case, the problem is either with the drain pump or with a blockage in the drain hose. It is not difficult to replace the drain pump with your own hands, it is important to follow the instructions offered by experts. Cleaning the drain hose is also quite simple, and let's start with it.
- Drain the water from the tank of the Electrolux washing machine through the small emergency drain hose located at the drain filter at the front in the lower right corner of the machine body.
- Disconnect the drain hose from the machine body and from the drain pipe or siphon.
- Thoroughly rinse the hose under running water, if there is a cleaning cable, use it, if not, you can clean the blockage with a piece of stiff wire.
- Replace the hose and test the machine.
After 5-7 years of operation, Electrolux washing machines begin to wash worse. When you start looking for the reason, it turns out that the powder that we pour into the cuvette, almost all of it remains there. It turns out that washing takes place virtually without powder, what is the problem?
When collecting water for washing, the washing machine must pass the stream through the compartment for the powder, so that the powder, along with the water, goes into the tank. There is a valve next to the cuvette that must open for water to enter the powder compartment. So, if the valve is worn out, clogged with dirt and water stone, it may simply not open. What to do?
- Remove the detergent drawer.
- Remove the top wall of the washer.
- Locate the valve at the base of the powder cuvette niche and inspect it.
- If the valve is worn out, it needs to be replaced with a new one, if cleaning can be done, then do it.
- Replace the lid, insert the powder cuvette and check the operation of the machine.
If the washing machine does not rinse or squeeze out water, even with a separate rinse program, this may be a signal that the control board is broken. Do-it-yourself control board repair is almost impossible, especially if you do not have the skills to repair electronics - contact a specialist.
If you can not only start the washing machine, but also turn it on at all, the problem is probably either in the “power on” button or in the network cable. In any case, in order to check both versions, you will have to use a multimeter and measure the resistance on the button contacts, as well as on the wires of the network cable. To get to the on / off button, you need to do the following.
- Take out the flask for the powder, in the niche on the right side there will be a fastener holding the instrument panel, it must be unscrewed.
- Unscrew the other bolts holding the panel and remove it.
- Disconnect the plastic holders that attach the front to the board.
- We find the contacts of the on / off button and measure the resistance.
- If the problem is in the contacts, then they will need to be cleaned and soldered, and then assembled in the reverse order.
- Remove the back cover of the washing machine.
- There will be a protective pad at the base of the power cord, detach it.
- We check the reliability of the connection of the contacts of the power filter and the wires of the network cable.
- If the wires were connected securely, then we disconnect the wire and check it for breakdown with a multimeter.
- The broken wire needs to be replaced, it is best to buy a new original network cable and put it instead of the old one.
- We assemble the machine and check its work.
Important! When working with the power cord, never insert the plug into the outlet to avoid electric shock.
It may happen that the washing machine starts, the washing program is set, but as soon as you start the program and there is a load in the electrical circuit, the machine knocks out and the machine turns off. In this case, contact a professional electrician immediately, as the problem is most likely in the electrical circuit. Perhaps the outlet is faulty or the wire cross-section is not designed for such a load, in general, remember one thing - it is absolutely impossible to operate the machine with such a malfunction!
Before changing the heating element, do not forget to check it with a multimeter, starting with the temperature sensor, perhaps the problem is not in him at all, but in the control board.This happens in rare cases, but this version cannot be dismissed in any case.
In conclusion, we note that the repair of Electrolux washing machines in a number of cases can be done with your own hands, especially if these hands grow from the right place. In some cases, of course, it is better to contact specialists and pay a lot of money, but very often you can do everything yourself and save a lot of cash.
Washing machines Electrolux have their own characteristic malfunctions due to the technical features of their design (with vertical loading or horizontal loading). Therefore, do-it-yourself repair of these machines is possible only after thorough theoretical preparation and a detailed study of the device of a specific model.
Many modern washing machines have an error recognition system. When a malfunction is detected, they show an error code on the display, the decoding of which is given in the instructions:
- Water is not being drawn into the tank.
- Dirty water does not drain.
- The machine skips the rinsing step.
- The machine does not wring out.
- The loaded detergent remains in the tray after washing.
- The water in the tank does not heat up.
- The machine is bad or does not turn on at all.
All of the above breakdowns occur with other brands of washing machines, but for Electrolux they are the most frequent, especially for top-loading machines.
If the washing machine does not draw water (although it is in the tap), then there can be only two reasons:
- the filter in the inlet hose is clogged;
- the filling (inlet) valve is faulty.
You can try to clean the filter yourself, but most often clogged filters do not provide for cleaning, but subject to replacement entirely... The same is with the filling valve - if it does not work (this can be checked with a multimeter), the faulty valve must be replaced.
If the washing machine Electrolux is vice versa not drains waste water, then the reasons for this malfunction may be:
- failure of the drain pump (pump);
- the drain hose is blocked.
Replacing a faulty pump is quite simple according to the instructions, but cleaning the drain hose with your own hands, you need to disassemble a little more:
- First, drain the remaining water from the tank through the emergency hose located below, next to the drain filter.
- Disconnect the drain hose from the machine.
- Rinse or blow through the hose well. If it does not come out, use a special cleaning cable or stiff wire.
- Reinstall the drain hose.
- Fill the machine with water and check its drain.
If the machine skips the rinse step or spinning the laundry, this can only mean one thing - a malfunction of the control board! It is impossible to repair the board yourself, unless you understand electronics.
If washing powder remains in the tray after washing, this indicates a malfunction of the tray valve, which is responsible for the short-term injection of water during its collection. Over time, this valve can become clogged or simply deteriorate. If it is broken, then it cannot be repaired - only replaced. But if it's just clogged, then you can try to clean it somehow or rinse it under a strong stream of hot water.
Per heating the water in the tank the washing machine meets only one element - a tubular electric heater (TEN). Therefore, if the water in the machine does not heat up, you should start "dancing" with it:
- We carefully inspect all the wires going to the heating element from the power supply unit for a break.
- We take our multimeter and "ring" the temperature sensor of the heating element.
- We check the contacts of the heating element itself.
If the heating element or its thermal sensor is faulty, we change them to new ones. If a wire break is detected, we eliminate the break, isolate, re-solder the contacts.
In rare cases, when all three of these elements are in good order, but the water in the tank does not heat up, it is to blame control board... Unfortunately, only a specialist can fix it.
In cases where the washing machine does not turn on at all, or even worse - it turns on every other time, the malfunction may be in the power button or network cable.
In Electrolux washing machines, it is not uncommon for the network cable to loosen and the contacts at its base break. The easiest way to check the serviceability of the cable is with a multimeter (tester). If there is a malfunction in it, then you can make repairs with your own hands.
But it is much more difficult to get to the contacts of the power button. Especially if it is not mechanical, but electronic - on the thyristors of the control board. The mechanical switch can be easily replaced and re-soldered, and electronics knowledge is required to fix the electronic button.
As you can see, in many cases, DIY repair of the Electrolux washing machine is quite possible and there is nothing special about it. There are only non-repairable units and parts that can only be replaced. And if you learn to do it yourself, you will save a lot of money on the services of specialists!
Most modern Electrolux washing machines have an electronic display with a fault code function. It appears if any error occurs during washing or other processes. Any user with even a little experience in handling household appliances can independently troubleshoot various problems and perform minor repairs to the blocks of the Electrolux washing machine.
If an alphanumeric error code appears on the display, refer to the instructions. It sometimes notes the main emergency situations and options for their solution. There you can also find a diagram of the location of its main nodes.
If the reasons for the breakdown are external (the drain or inlet hose is clogged, there is no pressure), there is no need to open the device. But if the defect lies inside (for example, the machine does not turn on or does not execute commands):
- 1. Remove the upper surface first. They stand behind the cars, unscrew the screws (2 pcs) under the cover and pull it towards themselves.
- 2. Unscrew the screws holding the back wall.
- 3. Approximately in the middle of the body, they find bolts that tighten both halves, unscrew them.
- 4. Move the body apart and gain access to the nodes and blocks.
If, when you turn on the washing machine, there is no characteristic noise of water passing through, and when you spin or completely end the washing process, there is no drainage of the liquid, then the corresponding codes will be displayed on the screen:
No or too little water supply in the wash mode. The required height of the liquid column in the tank has not been reached within a certain time.
With active inlet assemblies, there is no notification about the operation of the flow sensor
- improper operation of any of the filler valves or triac in the control circuit of these mechanisms on the electronic module;
- blocking of the intake valve;
- blockage that prevents water from pouring inside, or low flow pressure in the water supply system;
- wiring defect;
- damaged flow sensor
- pump;
- blockage of the drain hose, pipes or filter with debris;
- improper operation of the electronic controller
- electronic board;
- pump or its electrical wire.
An error occurs when the inlet valves are broken or clogged, the triac malfunction, low water pressure or improper operation of the control board elements. To check electronics and electricians, they use a multimeter, in other cases, use the visual-manual method.
Accidents in which the case is opened:
- 1. Malfunctions of the electronic board (EP). It is often found under the detergent drawer or against the front wall. Check the wires connecting this module to the filler nodes. If they are in order, then when you turn on the washing unit to the network or press the "Start" button, an alternating potential of 220 volts will appear on the valve terminals. If it is not there, the EP is to blame. It is difficult to fix it yourself. Better to contact a service or store.
- 2. The inlet filter is clogged. This is the mesh between the valve and the inlet hose. It needs to be cleaned.
- 3.Clogged or damaged valves - open or short windings. When the program is started, water is injected into the machine with a characteristic noise. If it is not there, the hose is clean, and the liquid does not pass into the container for filling the powder and other components - the valve is faulty. Some devices have several of these parts under the top cover, so you will have to check each one.
- 4. Blockage in pipes and assemblies. If the valves are in good working order, a step-by-step check of the cleanliness of the units is carried out. These are different branch pipes, hoses, a container for powders, a pressure switch.
- 5. The flow sensor does not send a signal to the electronic unit.
They put the multimeter in the "dialing" mode, connect its probes to the terminals of the windings of each valve. When the readings of the device are close to zero or infinity, the part is changed. The resistance of a healthy node is 0.2-0.4 kOhm.
It is easy to check the part if 220 volts from the electric power supply are supplied to its conclusions. It is enough to remove the valve and blow into it and at the same time press "Start". If the air flows freely, the unit is working properly.
In case of hitches with the exit - the malfunction lies in the part itself. It must be replaced or tried to be repaired (open and remove the blockage or breakage).
The code is displayed when a unit is depressurized, a defect or a break in one or more internal hoses. It means that liquid is collecting in the sump.
Verification can take a long time:
- it is necessary to disassemble the device and drain all the water from the pallet;
- turn on the car and observe where it flows from.
To pinpoint the leak, you can place a piece of paper under each assembly and hose. If a defective block is identified, it is changed or the damage is repaired with a sealant, glue, silicone.
The spent liquid has remained in the tank for more than 10 minutes. This defect occurs for the following reasons:
- the pump is broken, its winding is damaged;
- there is no signal to start the pump engine with electric power;
- debris in the drain hose or filter.
- 1. Check the voltage at the terminals of the electric drive and the pump when the drain mode is turned on.
- 2. Disconnect the filter and drain hoses (internal and external, connected to the drain). It is necessary to identify if there is any debris in them.
- 3. Determine with a multimeter the presence of a resistance of 170 ohms in the drain pump coil. If it shows values much less than the specified one, then the turns are closed. If the readings are greater, there is a break.
If you encounter this error, you must immediately stop and turn off the machine. The code occurs due to an excess of foam in the tank.
The danger is that the foam clogs the sewer riser and begins to seep into the side branches to the neighbors.
To prevent trouble:
- 1. Turn off the machine and pull the hose out of the drain.
- 2. Substitute a bathtub or other large container and, turning the washing machine on to the drain, gradually remove any frothy water from it.
- 3. After cleaning the unit from excess foam, turn on the washing program so that clean water is collected in the machine. Then insert the hose into the drain and switch the program to drain.
It does not interfere with checking the pump and filter - they can be clogged with debris and foam.
The code notifies about the activation of the automatic leakage control system - Aqua Control. The electronics will start the pump to completely drain the liquid or open the container with the absorbent, which will fill a special two-layer hose and block the water inlet into the device.
The machine will then beep and may stop. It will not turn on until the cause of the leak is found. This is often due to electronics malfunction. If the wiring, electronic device or the pump itself is damaged, it overflows, and the Aqua Control system is triggered.
The test begins with determining the voltage at the pump contacts. If it is not there, they inspect the electronic board and wires. Otherwise, check the resistance of the coils of this node. If it is 170 ohms, remove the pump, disassemble and check.
Various identification and testing devices can become a source of incorrect functioning of the washing machine.If they are faulty, the corresponding signal will not be sent to the main unit and the unit will stop, some element will burn out or there will be a leak.
In fact, the name of the company "Electrolux" is known to everyone, but few are familiar with the technology of this company. In this article, let's talk about the technique of this company in more detail. More specifically, let's talk about the Electrolux washing machine - malfunctions, do-it-yourself repairs. Each owner of a washing machine of this brand is strongly recommended to read the instructions for use. This is necessary in order to restore the performance of the equipment in case of failures.
External manifestations of malfunctions in the washing machine are the symptoms. They can even be such trifles as working a little longer than usual or slightly altered sound. All this indicates that something is not working properly in the washer. It is thanks to such things that we detect a breakdown and have time to restore the equipment.
Important! The big problem is that some malfunctions appear before such symptoms appear, and the worst thing is that they do not manifest themselves for a long time.
The most common symptoms are:
- Cold wash. The water does not heat up even if the program is set otherwise.
- Water is not poured.
- Water does not drain.
- The rinsing is not performed in two versions: either it does not go to it at all, or it skips and performs the subsequent actions.
- No spinning occurs.
- Powder is not taken from the cuvette, and washing takes place without it.
- Does not turn on or turns on every other time.
- When the machine is turned on, the machine knocks out.
Important! Hard water is a common cause of machine breakdowns. The negative result of contact of such water with machine mechanisms is scale, mold, unpleasant odor, etc. This can and should be fought. Read more in our articles:
Now that we have figured out in what situations it is worthwhile to be wary, and, possibly, to repair the Electrolux washing machine with our own hands, let's talk about in what situations it is necessary to do certain actions.
The wash cycle in any washing machine - “Electrolux” is no exception, it assumes that the water will drain and fill. At least twice - when washing and when rinsing. Also, the water is drained after spinning and drying.
This is where an obstacle arises. If she cannot fill in water, then the program freezes and the wash stops.
Important! In this situation, the manufacturer has provided for a system of errors that are highlighted on the display in the form of a special code. You can decipher it by looking at the instructions. In particular, if the situation we are discussing arises, the machine displays the E11 code.
If your device issued the E11 code, there may be 3 reasons:
- No water supply.
- Filler valve does not work.
- The filter in the inlet hose is clogged.
What to do in such a case? Since there are several reasons, you need to start from the most obvious one. In our case, the first thing to do is to check for the presence of water in the tap, because if there is no water, then we can make the obvious conclusion that the breakdown is not in the car.
Second, check for clogging of the filter. You need to do it like this:
- Check if this filter exists in your washing machine.
- If it exists, then shut off the water on the risers, carefully remove this filter.
- Assess the degree of soiling and find out if the filters of your model of washing machine can be cleaned.
- If the filter is cleaned, remove the blockages and put back.
- Otherwise, you will have to buy a new filter.
Important! Do not forget that in all washing machines, sooner or later, such a filter needs to be replaced. Otherwise, it will clog up so that it will stop the water supply.
If you find out that the reason is not in the absence of water and not in the filter, then you will have to deal with the inlet valve. To check it, you will need to use a multimeter. If you still haven't found the problem, you will need to contact the service center.
Important! Sooner or later, all equipment physically wears out. In the event of a major breakdown, repairs can be very expensive. It often happens that spare parts are no longer available for your washing machine model. It's time to think about buying new equipment! For you, we have prepared ratings of the best washing machines:
In a situation where water is poured, but not drained, the washing program is activated, but rinsing does not occur due to the fact that water does not leave the tank. The problem may be due to the following reasons:
- Drain pump malfunction.
- Drain hose clogged.
Replacing the drain pump is easy - just follow the instructions. The situation is the same with the hose. Let's start by checking the hose. For this:
- Drain the water tank through the emergency drain hose. In most models, it is located at the drain filter in the lower right corner of the washer.
- Next, disconnect the drain hose from the product drain pipe or siphon.
- Clear the blockage with a hard wire Kursk or a special cable.
- Rinse it with running water.
- Put the hose back in place, check the functionality of the device.
Let's move on to another malfunction of the Electrolux washing machine and its DIY repair. The main symptom of such a problem is the deterioration of the quality of the wash over the years. As it turns out later, the whole problem is that the washing machine does not pick up the powder from the cuvette. Washing comes out practically without powder, and therefore the quality of washing leaves much to be desired. What is the reason for this situation? Let's take a closer look.
During normal operation of the washing machine, a stream of water must pass through the powder compartment, which takes away all the contents. This water passes through the valve, which should open at the beginning of the set mode. But when it is already worn out, clogged with water stone and mud, it may not open. This is the reason for such a malfunction.
To fix the Electrolux washing machine with your own hands:
- Pull out the detergent drawer.
- Remove the top of the washer.
- At the base of the niche where the powder compartment was located, find the same valve, inspect it.
- If it is damaged, it must be replaced. If you can just clean it, clean it.
- Replace the cover, insert the powder compartment.
- Check the functionality of the washing machine.
As you can see, sometimes due to a simple valve, such a small part, the whole system may not work well.
If your system does not spin or rinse products even when a special program is set, most likely this is a problem with the control board. Its breakage cannot be eliminated by hand. Therefore, in order for you to repair the control board, you will need to contact the service.
If you cannot not only start the wash, but also simply turn on the appliances, the problem is probably in the power button or the network cable. There is also a possibility that there is simply no electrician in the house. So it's worth checking it out.
In order to check the versions of the causes of the breakdown, you need to use a multimeter, or more precisely, measure the resistance values at the button contacts and the wires of the network cable. In order for you to access the shutdown button, you must:
- Take out the powder compartment.
- In the niche that has opened on the right side, unscrew the fastener that holds the dashboard.
- Do the same with the rest of the bolts and remove the panel.
- Detach the plastic holders that secure the front part.
- Find the contacts of the power button, measure the value.
- If the problem is in the contacts, then they need to be cleaned and soldered, and then assemble the machine in the reverse order.
If the button is fine, then there is most likely a problem with the network cable. It is also possible to fix the Electrolux washing machine with your own hands. To do this, you need:
- Remove the back cover of the washing machine.
- Detach the protective pad from the base of the power cord.
- Check the reliability of the connection of the wires of the mains cable with the contacts of the mains filter.
- If the wires are securely attached, then disconnect the wire and check it with a multimeter for breakdown.
- If you find a broken wire, then it must be replaced with an original new one.
At the end, reassemble the washing machine in reverse order, check its operation.
Important! When working with the power cord, do not plug it into an outlet to avoid electric shock.
If your assistant starts up, the washing program is set, and as soon as you start, the machine knocks it out, you must immediately contact the electricians. Problem. most likely, in an electrical circuit, and it is impossible to make repairs on your own.
Important! It is strictly forbidden to operate the washing machine in such conditions.
Such a malfunction can be found quite often in Electrolux washing machines. This effect is caused by the breakdown of the heating element - the heating element. It is very difficult to confuse this breakdown with another.
The solution here is one - to replace the heating element. Do-it-yourself repair of Electrolux washing machines is a completely difficult task, and replacing a heating element is one of the most difficult options. The main thing is to do everything carefully and in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Important! Before changing the heating element, measure it with a multimeter. The problem may not be with him at all, but with the control board.
Let's talk about the main error codes. Among them:
- E11 familiar to us is a problem with water intake from the pipeline.
- E12 - malfunction during drying with water supply.
- E13 - there is liquid in the pallet, which means there is a crack in the body.
- E21 - the washer does not drain water.
- E23, 24 - pump failure.
- E22 - there is no drain during drying, the condenser system may be clogged.
- E31, 32 - malfunctions of the water level sensor.
- E33 - power surges.
- E35 - occurs when the level switch breaks down.
- E36 - malfunctions of the water level relay.
- E41..45 - problems with the door.
- E51..54 - no communication between the control system and the engine.
- E55 - possible engine failure, power failure.
- E57 - high level of current in the system.
- E61, 62 - overheating.
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We discussed such a topic as the Electrolux washing machine, its malfunctions, do-it-yourself repairs and quick error orientation - all this is now available to you. Use our advice, manufacturer's instructions, and in most cases you can easily solve the problem yourself, without involving a wizard.