DIY Philips electric kettle repair

Repair of the PHILIPS HD 4686 electric kettle
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Video Repair of the PHILIPS HD 4686 electric kettle of Andrej Rudnitsky channel

The electric kettle has become an indispensable attribute of any kitchen and is the bestseller in comparison with other household appliances. This device is widely used both at home, in the kitchen and in the office. But unfortunately, like any electrical appliance, the kettle breaks down after a while. Since the price of this water heater is not too high, it is easier to buy a new one than to repair it. But if you consider yourself a home craftsman, or an apparatus for boiling water is dear to you as a memory, you can try to repair the electric kettle with your own hands.

An electric kettle works on a fairly simple principle, regardless of whether it is an expensive model or a budget one. At the bottom of the device there is a heating element connected to a thermostat, consisting of bimetallic plate... A tubular heater, when an electric current is applied to it, heats the liquid to a boil. When steam forms during the boiling process, it passes through a special channel to the thermostat, as a result of which the latter turns off the power supply.

If you look at the operation diagram of the device, you will notice that it works on the principle of an iron, and does not differ in the complexity of its design. But before you repair an electric kettle, there are always difficulties when disassembling the case, since the latches (holding the handle) are located differently for different models of units, in addition, the fastening screws can be with a head for a special screwdriver.

An electric kettle is a simple device that contains few elements that can fail. But still, there are common problems, among which the following can be distinguished:

• slow heating of the liquid;
• the device shuts down prematurely;
• the kettle does not turn off;
• the device does not turn on;
• burnout of the heating element;
• water leaks from the housing.

If you notice that the kettle does not heat up the water quickly, then pay attention to the condition of the heating element. Thick layer of limescale on it, formed due to insufficiently good maintenance of the unit, has poor thermal conductivity, which is why it takes more time to heat the water. If the scale is not removed, the heating element may burn out.

In addition, the entire contact group of the device suffers from overheating, as a result of which the contacts melt or burn out.

To get rid of limescale, you can use a regular citric acidsold in stores. It is enough to pour 1-2 bags of citric acid (20 grams each) into the tank, bring it to a boil and leave the heated solution in the container for 30 minutes. After that, the container must be thoroughly rinsed with running water to remove scale residues. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated.

This behavior of an electric water heater is explained by the fact that the device may turn off due to scale formed on the heating element. Since the heating element has a fuse against overheating, it works and breaks the electrical network. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to descale the heaters.

During the boiling of water in the vessel of the apparatus, the steam must be collected under the lid and directed through a special channel to the thermostat.If the lid is not closed tightly, then this does not happen, and the electrical appliance will work without shutting down. If everything is in order with the lid, check that the steam hole on the side of the handle is not clogged with limescale. In the case when everything is in order with the hole, it can be assumed that the kettle does not turn off due to breakdown of the thermostat.

The thermostat at the electric kettle is located at the bottom of the case, and in order to get to it for replacement, you will have to disassemble the device completely.

As an example, a conventional budget device was taken, which does not differ in design from more expensive models - an electric kettle Vitek, Tefal, Polaris, Scarlett and others. By the way, in this model, as in the Vitek VT-7009 (TR), the container is made of heat resistant glass... So, let's analyze the unit according to the following algorithm.

Repairing a kettle should start with disconnecting it from the mains... Next, remove the device from the stand (base) and unscrew all the screws on its bottom panel.

After that, it is necessary with special care to pry off the plastic cover on the handle using a thin screwdriver. This should be done carefully because in different models of devices the latches can be located in different places, and it is easy to break them.

Removing the trim reveals the mounting screws. They also need to be removed.

After unscrewing all fasteners, using light force, detach the handle with the cover from the body.

Next, detach the housing from the bottom of the unit.

At the bottom of the case, you will see all the main elements of the device: contact group, thermal relay and heating element.

pay attention to bimetallic plate (on the right in the figure). If damage is visible on it or it looks worn out, then this may be the reason that the appliance has stopped turning off. The plate is not repaired, but replaced with a new one.

But how to disassemble a Bosch kettle if, when you unscrew all the screws on the bottom, it cannot be removed? Those who disassembled such a device faced difficulties, which often ended in a breakdown of the device. Since the process is quite complicated to describe, it is better to watch a video on this topic.

There are various reasons why your boil machine will not turn on.

1. Faulty electrical cord and plug... To do this, you need to “ring out” the cord with the tester, touching the probes to the contacts of the plug and the contacts on the base (base). If a break is found, replace the cord with a new one.
2. Poor contact in the stand (base). From prolonged work, the contacts can burn, due to which their conductivity is disturbed. If fumes have formed on the contacts, they can be cleaned using fine sandpaper. But in the case when they are melted, they will need to be completely replaced.
3. Internal switch defective in the device. Since the switch has to experience quite large loads (from 1500 to 2000 W), its contacts can melt over time. This may cause the device to not work. The switch is located at the bottom of the handle, and in case of malfunction it looks as shown in the figure below.

In this case, the button must be replaced. But there is a malfunction of the button, in which you can fix the kettle with your own hands without replacing it. If you look at the button from the side, you can see 2 contacts, which in the “on” position close. If on them carbon deposits form, the device will not turn on.

To remove carbon deposits, you can use fine sandpaper, a nail file, or a thin file. To make it more convenient to do the stripping, you will need a small "revision" of the button, namely, removing the sides with a pair of nippers.

Another reason that the device does not want to work can be called malfunction of the mechanical power button... This breakdown is most often found in the Tefal vitesse model, since plastic slats are built into the handle of the electrical appliance, which transmit the translational movement from the outer button to the inner one located at the bottom of the unit.

After this part breaks, it becomes impossible to turn on the Tefal kettle. To understand in more detail how to repair an item that has broken, you can watch a video that describes one original way to fix a defect.

When repairing electric kettles, both old and newer, the most common breakdown is heating element burnout. The problem with heating elements arises, first of all, due to their overheating due to untimely descaling.

Before you repair a kettle with a disc heater or a heating element in the form of a spiral, it is necessary to disassemble the unit as described above. After that, take a tester and connect the test leads of the device to the output contacts of the heater. If the light on the device lights up, or it emits a sound, then the heating element can be considered serviceable.

How to check the heating element if no measuring device? It turns out to be very simple. It is necessary to connect zero from the mains to one contact of the heater, and a phase to the other. Next, insert a 220 light bulb into the socket, from which 2 insulated wires are taken out. Touch one stripped end of the wire to one contact of the heater and the other to the opposite. If the light is on, then the heating element is working properly.

If it turns out that the disc heater has burned out, then it cannot be replaced, since it is one piece with the bottom of the electrical appliance, such as in the Scarlett kettle, or Vitek VT-7009 (TR). Therefore, you will have to buy a new unit. Only open-type heating elements can be replaced.

If you notice that water is flowing (leaking) from the reservoir of the device, then it is recommended to use such a device for a while, until scale forms in the microcracks, which can block the seepage of liquid. If this does not help, then you will have to buy a new "boiler" if the warranty period has expired.

Another reason that the reservoir is leaking may be loose connection of the electric heater with the device body (if the heating element is open). In this case, you can tighten the fasteners holding it. If this does not help, then you will have to remove the heating element and change the rubber gasket, which is worn out.

Thus, we can summarize: in some cases it is quite possible to repair the unit for boiling water on our own. But if you do not have enough certain skills in the repair of household appliances, then the best option would be to buy a new kettle. Repair in a service center, from a financial point of view, does not justify itself, and there is no guarantee that the breakdown will not happen again.

He showed one of the repairs of an electric kettle.

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Do you want to watch how to repair an electric kettle? In the video I am sequentially, step by step.

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The repair of the thermal switch is shown.

A little about the protection design and possible malfunctions.

Possible malfunctions, electric kettle repair. https://youtu.be/ZVOJAg8Z-0w.

An excellent, working way to eliminate leaks in the kettle body as a result of cracks, holes, etc.

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Subscription to the channel You can buy the thermostat here: https://ali.pub/uzwmk (search for your model through the search) If.

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The nichrome wire should be selected according to the resistance, about 20-23 Ohm and the length should be carried into the groove a little.

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He spoke about a not quite standard malfunction.

Sometimes it is necessary to repair simple household appliances, not an exception electric kettles. Decided.

Electric kettle repair. We open the Chinese teapot. And we throw it away, since it cannot be repaired because of the ten.

The “Smart Home” concept has been haunting me for a long time. I will share my personal experience in kitchen automation. There should be electronics in the kitchen too! No one will consider such things as a curiosity anymore:

1. a microwave oven, with which you can set the operation algorithm by pressing the buttons on the numeric keypad;
2. refrigerator with electronic thermostat;
3. oven with electronic timer and temperature sensor.

I would like something else unusual. There are, of course, interesting devices, like a refrigerator that can independently order food and distribute torrents (Anton, hello to you 🙂 ), but this is too much.

I needed an electric kettle. I naturally decided to buy an electronic one.

It didn’t take long to choose, since in 2009 there was not yet a large selection of electronically controlled electric kettles. My choice fell on Philips HD 4686/30 (white). This model can heat water up to 40, 60, 80 or 100 degrees, maintain the set temperature for 30 minutes, and has several overheating protections. Pleasing to the eye are a number of LEDs on its body, which show the current water temperature.

Everything was fine for a little over a year, until so much scale accumulated in the teapot that it was already annoying.

I get rid of scale very simply - I pour half a packet of citric acid into the kettle and boil water in it. After cleaning, the bottom of the kettle and all its filters (nets and metal shavings) shone again and became like new.

And then it began. The next day the kettle dripped.

I soon found out that quite a few owners of this model faced a similar problem.

The kettle is still under warranty. The service center said that the kettles are not being repaired, but simply replaced with new ones. But here's the bad luck - white teapots are no longer produced! A black kettle would not look kosher in my kitchen, so I refused to change it and decided to fix it myself.

Well, I thought, the hour has come when I can finally dig into his insides with a clear conscience.
Disassembling it the first time was not easy - you needed an asterisk (T8) screwdriver and great skill to bend the plastic latches. I soon reached the disc heating element, pulled it out and removed the O-ring from it.

The O-ring, by the way, is patented (Chinese patent no. Zl98811836.x). It is called EASIFIX PRESSURE SEAL (more details here).

As it turned out, the leak was caused by the presence of limescale residues on the O-ring. I cleaned everything thoroughly with a citric acid solution and put the kettle back.

Later, I began to sort out the kettle every time after such a cleaning.

About a year later, a second surprise awaited me. The kettle began to turn off a few seconds after it was turned on. The first thing I assumed was electronics power supply problems. Sinned on a dry electrolytic capacitor. This time I disassembled the kettle completely.

We must pay tribute to the engineers, the body is well thought out. The electronics are reliably protected from moisture. There is a lot to learn.

Here it is - an electronic heart, i.e. printed circuit board of my "charm". I found the documentation for the microcontroller, it turned out that it is even capable of playing music.

Along the way, I found out that the teapot has not one temperature sensor, but two - below and above under the lid. Double protection!

I replaced the capacitor and tested the kettle. Everything went fine.

I put the kettle back, poured water and. it turns off again after 2 seconds!

As always, it works when disassembled, but not when assembled. The usual thing.

I no longer knew where to "dig". And then I accidentally noticed that if you shake the kettle, then it manages to work a little longer. It looked like it was not electronics that were to blame, but mechanics.

I got to the thermal relay - this is the third line of defense. The thermostat is located on the back of the disc heating element. It turned out that it failed and began to open the circuit at standard temperatures instead of emergency ones. I fixed it simply by bending the contacts with tweezers.

The kettle is now working as expected.

Can I attach a radio control to it now? 😉

Household appliances for cooking are widely used by mankind, and the leader of them, perhaps, is the electric kettle. Today it is difficult to find an apartment or office where there is no electrical appliance for heating water to a boil. But the service life of any electrical appliance is not eternal and there comes a moment when you turn on the electric kettle, and the water does not heat up.

But do not get upset prematurely and run to the store for a new electric kettle, first you should try to repair it yourself. An electric kettle is one of the simplest household electrical appliances, and in many cases it is quite easy to repair it yourself, even without the skills of an electrical engineer, as the repair technology below will convince you.

To repair an electric kettle with your own hands with knowledge of the matter, you need to familiarize yourself with the principle of its operation. It is easy to do with an electrical diagram. Although there are many models of kettles, they are all assembled according to the same electrical diagram, regardless of their appearance and capacity. There are some differences in the schemes, for example, the presence of a timer, but the basis of the electric kettle circuit is still preserved, and it is surprisingly simple, no more complicated than an electric heater circuit.

The electric kettle works as follows. Through an electric plug, the mains voltage is supplied with a flexible cord to the XP1 contacts of the stand, on which the electric kettle is installed when the water is heated. At the base of the kettle there are reciprocal contacts, which, when placed on the base, are connected to the contacts on the base. Further, the current passes through the thermal switch S1, which is turned on using the key on the kettle and turns off automatically when the water boils.The S2 thermal protection switch is not directly involved in the operation, it is always on and operates only if the kettle is turned on without water. From the switches, voltage is supplied to the terminals of the tubular electric heater, in abbreviated form - heating element. The HL lamp serves to indicate the on state.

From an electric plug of the C6 type, the mains voltage is supplied with the help of a flexible cord to the XP1 contacts of the stand, on which the electric kettle is installed when the water is heated. The contacts are deeply recessed into the support to prevent accidental contact with the human body.

If you look closely, you can see one spring-loaded electrical contact in the depths of each concentric groove. Through these contacts, the supply voltage is supplied to the electric kettle. There is also a contact in the hole in the center, which serves to connect the body of the electric kettle to the PE grounding wire. The PE contact is low-current and does not participate in the work, but only serves to protect a person from electric shock in the event of an insulation breakdown.

How the stand looks like with the cover removed can be seen in the photo. At the ends of the power cord, plug-in terminals are installed, which, in turn, are put on the terminals of the contacts. The photo on the right shows a view of the XP1 connector from the side of the contact block installation.

To transfer electricity from the stand to the kettle, in the center of its bottom there is a counterpart of the contacts of the XP1 connector, which is a grounding pin in the center and two concentric copper rings.

If you remove the lid of the electric kettle, then a picture will open before your eyes, as in the photo. The main element is a two-end tubular electric heater (TEN) bent in the form of an open ring.

At the ends of the heating element there are ceramic-insulated leads from the body for supplying the supply voltage. Steel flat contacts are welded to them by contact welding, onto which cap terminals are put on. There is a hole in the flat contact, and in the union terminal there is a spring-loaded strip with a protrusion. When putting on the terminal, the protrusion enters the hole on the contact, and reliably fixes the terminal, preventing it from spontaneous slipping. To remove the terminal, press the spring-loaded bar with the end of a sharp object so that the protrusion comes out of the hole.

Usually, insulating tubes are put on all the terminals in the electric kettle and the holes with the lock are not visible. Therefore, in this case, to release the terminal from the retainer, the insulation must be pushed aside, as shown in the photo. When installing the removed terminals in place, do not forget to orient them so that it is possible to squeeze the latch, otherwise the repeated removal of the terminal will be possible only with great effort.

To supply the supply voltage, turn on the electric kettle and protect it from overheating, a special unit is used, fixed with three screws or nuts in the center of the heating element circle. In order to remove the unit from the case, you need to remove the terminals from the heating element and unscrew the screws or nuts. In cheap models, instead of a threaded fastener, you can find a fastening with the help of bent metal strips welded to the body, which have to be bent.

Heating elements in electric kettles, depending on their volume, are installed with a capacity of 500 to 2500 W and emit huge thermal energy in a small area. To exclude a fire if the kettle is turned on without water or the lid is not closed (in some models, the open position of the lid does not block the switch), the S2 thermal protection system is provided in the design.

As temperature sensors in electric kettles, round bimetallic plates are used with a recess inside, forming a "tongue" in the center of the plate. In the photograph of the reverse side of the power supply and thermal protection connection unit, two such plates are visible.When attaching the assembly to the bottom of the kettle, the bimetallic plates fit snugly against the body. For better heat transfer from the body, they are lubricated with a special thermally conductive paste. When repairing a kettle, this paste must not be removed.

A bimetallic plate consists of two thin plates of metals glued together over the entire plane with different coefficients of linear expansion. Therefore, when heated, one metal expands more than the other and the bimetallic plate bends. If you fix the bimetallic disc by the tongue, as in the photograph of the node, then its outer part will bend in it.

To turn off the kettle in case of overheating, it is enough to mechanically tie the bimetallic plate to the contacts. For this, a ceramic rod is used, one end of which rests against the disk, and the other against the spring-loaded plate of the contact group. When bending, the disc presses on the rod, which, pressing on the contact plate, moves the contacts away from each other.

This type of protection has a big drawback, after the kettle body has cooled down, the plate will return to its place and the kettle will turn on again, and this will continue until the heating element burns out or the electric kettle is turned off by the switch or removed from the stand. But, despite the noted drawback, this method of protection completely excludes the possibility of fire.

To prevent the heating element from turning on again, in some models, two bimetallic discs are installed. One works as I described above, and the second is connected to the switch and, when overheated, presses on the switch, which is triggered and completely disconnects the electric kettle from the supply voltage, as if the shutdown happened by a person's hand.

In modern electric kettles of any model there is a system for automatically disconnecting the heating element from the mains when the water boils. The principle of operation of the system is based on the direction of the steam generated during boiling of water through a channel to a bimetallic plate, mechanically connected to the switch.

The bimetallic disc on the switch is fixed to the edge, and therefore, when it heats up, the tongue bends, as in the photo. On the left is a bimetallic disc at room temperature and the tongue is in the plane of the rest of the disc surface. On the right, when heated with steam, the tongue bent down a few millimeters, pressed the switch lever S1 and the electric kettle turned off.

Depending on the manufacturer and model of the electric kettle, the key or lever of action on the switch is installed either in the upper part of the handle in the form of a key or under the handle, in the form of a plate or a rod with a handle put on it. The bimetallic disc is installed either at the top of the handle directly on the switch or at the base.

The cavity of the handle is usually used as a channel for supplying steam to the bimetallic plate of the switch. Sometimes for this purpose, a separate channel is installed inside the kettle in the form of a square or round tube, as in the photo. Installing a separate steam channel in the water tank is not the best option, since an additional gasket appears and, as a result, it is also a potential malfunction in the form of water leakage through this gasket.

In some models of kettles, in the base or on the power key, an on-state indicator is installed on a neon lamp, on an electrical diagram marked HL, or they make an LED water light. The on-state indication allows you to immediately detect if the plug is not inserted into the outlet or if the kettle is poorly installed on the stand.

Usually, a neon lamp or a driver for LED backlighting of water is connected directly to the terminals of the heating element and therefore immediately indicates the supply of voltage to its terminals. For indication, an ordinary neon lamp is used, connected through a current-limiting resistor of about 200 kOhm. In the photo, the contour of the resistor is visible on a heat-shrinkable tube, put on the bottom wire.

LEDs are used as a light source for illuminating water in electric kettles. The LED is not designed for direct connection to the mains and therefore the driver is installed. The driver circuit is a series-connected rectifier diode, a 12 kΩ resistor with a power of 5 W and an LED. To exclude flickering of light, an electrolytic capacitor of 100 uF, 16 V is installed in parallel to the LED. Since two LEDs are used for the backlight, two circuits are assembled on the board.

The photo on the right shows a transparent insert mounted in the metal bottom of the kettle. Through it, the water is illuminated from the side of the base.

After studying the electrical circuit and the principle of operation of the electric kettle, you can start repairing it yourself. The most common case of breakdown is burnout of contact pads in switches and loss of contacts in terminal connections. These failures are due to the high current consumption of the electric kettle, the value of which can be found from the table below. The table is universal and applicable to any electrical appliances designed for a 220 V AC supply - irons, electric stoves, heaters and others.

A spiral is a conductive coating applied to a ceramic base, which in turn is glued to a metal heat-conducting disc, the bottom of the kettle.

If the coil is burnt out, then the kettle is absolutely not repairable. You need to buy a new one.

There were 3 pieces in operation.

The first, the oldest PHILIPS HD4651. The time of its intensive exploitation is about 5 years. During this time, one of the glasses on the sides cracked, possibly as a result of his washing, and the glasses also turned yellow. The junction of the contacts between the kettle and the stand is badly worn out. The contact was already bad. The contacts welded to the heating element fell off. I contacted by pressing the bottom cover with bolts. Made in Poland.

The second is still working. Teapot made in Poland.

In the third, the spiral burned out after 2 years, which will be discussed below. Teapot made in Poland

Fragment of the bottom cover with a label

Electrical connection of the spiral with the stand

Measure the resistance at the indicated points, if it differs greatly from 18 Ohm, then the spiral is not working properly

Shown in close-up is one of the 3 welding locations and a contact pad for continuity.

For those who are thinking of buying a Philips HD4667 / 20 kettle, it will be useful to know that you may face one problem in the future ─

insert on the lid. The teapot itself is good, one might even say "unkillable", but after prolonged use, the transparent insert of the lid collapses. Therefore, it is better to take care of the availability of a spare one in advance.

If a breakdown has already occurred, do not despair. You can buy the insert for the lid of the philips hd4667 kettle either in the online store or in the service. The price of the issue is 700 ─ 1000 rubles.

If there is neither time nor desire to wait, then you can repair the teapot lid with your own hands in 1 ─ 2 hours.

For repairs, you will need a small piece of monolithic polycarbonate 3-4 mm thick, a round file, sandpaper and metal scissors.

First, you need to disassemble the teapot lid by unscrewing 5 screws with a curly screwdriver.

The upper part is removed with a gasket and a transparent insert. The lower part remains in place.
Attaching the damaged insert to the polycarbonate, we make a sketch.

You can cut monolithic polycarbonate with both an electric jigsaw and metal scissors. Moreover, the latter option is less noisy and dusty.

Depressions are made with a regular round file.

After that, the edges are trimmed with sandpaper.

Trying on the future glass in place. It should fit tightly enough.

After that, gently heat the insert on gas.

Here I was in a hurry, and, as a result, I made a mistake (slightly overheated the edges where the bubbles appeared).In order not to repeat such a mistake, it is better to keep the part higher. It will take a little more time, but "boiling" will not occur.

After warming up, quickly put the insert in place and, pressing with a glove along the contour, make a bulge.

It remains to assemble the "sandwich" in the reverse order and the lid for the teapot is ready.

If, nevertheless, you need an original plastic insert for a teapot, then for a while, you can get out of the situation as follows.

We disassemble the cover. Take the baking sleeve. Fortunately, it is intended for food and high temperatures.

We put between the two parts of the lid and assemble in the reverse order. We make holes with self-tapping screws during assembly. We cut off the excess with scissors or a clerical knife. Be careful not to damage the rubber seal.

If the article was useful, do not consider it a work, share on the social network:

Thanks for the idea.
I cut out a thin lid from a plastic food jar, it bends and does not need to be heated

Thank you. Somehow I didn’t think about such an option.

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In this article, we will analyze in detail troubleshooting methods and electric kettle repair with common malfunctions like “does not boil" or "does not turn on“. Most teapots in the price range of up to 3 - 5 thousand rubles are made, most likely, in China. Therefore, their reliability, as a rule, is at the appropriate level.

The electric kettle, the repair of which will be described below in the article, worked for about 11 months and failed. Often people think that if the kettle does not turn on, means, burned out heating element (heating element) and the kettle can be thrown away, especially if it still turns out to be disc. Spiral heating element it could still be replaced if the reason lay in a faulty heating element, but now such kettles are quite rare.

So, if your kettle suddenly stopped turning on and the warranty period of its operation has ended, then you can safely proceed to diagnosing the malfunction of the electric kettle. Electric kettle malfunctions are different, we will consider here purely electrical malfunctions, that is, we do not consider here mechanical repair of a broken off part of the kettle structure, all kinds of water leaks, and similar non-electrical malfunctions.

What do you need to repair an electric kettle?

We need the following tools: a Phillips or flat screwdriver (depending on the type of screws) and a multimeter (tester).

Let's start repairing the electric kettle

The first step is to make sure that there really is a voltage in the household electrical network of 220 volts. It is silly and corny at first glance, but this is one of the troubleshooting algorithms. How to determine. It is enough to plug another electrical device into the outlet and check the voltage in the outlet. This is not particularly difficult.
Next, you need to ring the stand from the electric kettle using the tester. We take the tester and ring the circuit in turn from the electrical plug and the socket on the stand from the kettle. On the stand in the socket, you may have 3 conductors, the third is ground, in my case this protective ground electrically connects the kettle body and the side (ground) terminal on the Euro plug. We look at the presence of a circuit using a multimeter and the absence of signs of carbon deposits on the contacts. If the circuit is not broken in the stand (which is a rarity) and there is no carbon deposits, you can proceed to disassemble the electric kettle. Although it would be more correct to immediately measure the resistance on the kettle itself, I believe that the operation performed will not be superfluous and will not take much of your time.

If everything is in order with the stand for the electric kettle, then, therefore, malfunction is covered in the teapot itself... Here it is appropriate to ring the chain once again from the side of the kettle without disassembling it, although it was possible to immediately start dialing from the kettle itself. We take a multimeter and measure the resistance of current-carrying contacts. If the device (multimeter) shows infinity, in other words, an open circuit, proceed to disassembling the kettle.

We turn off the three screws on the bottom cover. There may be 6 self-tapping screws here, it all depends on the specific model of the teapot.

After disassembling the kettle, immediately check, does it work Heating element, for this we measure its resistance using a tester (multimeter). The multimeter shows a value of 172 Ohm, this is in my case, you may have other values, which tells us about serviceability Heating element... If you have endless resistance then you're out of luck Heating element burned out and out of order. Disk heating element cannot be replaced, the spiral heating element can still be changed, it is found on sale. So the heating element is working properly, let's move on.

Let's try to figure out now what is going where. Two red wires parallel to the heating element, this is the power supply to the neon lamp, which signals the inclusion of the kettle. This whole circuit (white wires) goes into the handle of the kettle, where there is a switch and at the same time a thermostat. Since the heating element, as we have seen above, is serviceable, and the kettle itself did not turn on, then with a high degree of probability unjust this same electric kettle switch... In order to get to the switch, you need to disassemble the handle of the electric kettle.

At the handle of the kettle, you need to remove the cover, which is attached to the self-tapping screw and latches. Behind this overlay is located switch or in another way it is called thermostat for electric kettle.

Kettle thermostat, serves to turn the kettle on and off when it boils. Due to the fact that a rather large current flows through these contacts (10A or 2000 W), then contacts here most often get burned... It is enough to ring it with a tester to check whether the switch is serviceable or not.

The switch in our case is faulty, let's try to carefully disassemble it to get to the contacts. To do this, move the upper part of the switch to the left and lift it up. Remove the top of the switch and set it aside.

Having fully disassembled switch for kettle, we see carbon deposits on contacts... In the photo, the bottom contact is raised up for clarity.

Carbon deposits on the contacts of the electric kettle switch, the most common malfunction that occurs when repair of electric kettles... For removing carbon deposits on contacts switch, you need to clean the contacts with a file or a female nail file. After stripping, you need to immediately ring the circuit with a tester, if the circuit appears to assemble the switch and the kettle in the reverse order.

Sometimes contacts in the switch for a teapot completely burn out, in this case you can try buy a thermostat for a kettle on the Internet, the price is about 200 rubles (excluding shipping costs). If I was buying a kettle thermostat, I would buy it here, with free shipping besides.

If you do not understand something in the article, you can watch the whole process of repairing an electric kettle with your own hands in the following video: