DIY Moulinex electric kettle repair

Repairing an electric kettle is simple - everyone can handle it. Inside there is a spiral, rolled into the bottom, which controls the thermostat with a button. The structure is powered by a voltage of 230 volts, protected against overheating by a thermal fuse. More often wire - you have to change. Cheap models lack the intricacies of protection.

Repairing an electric kettle with your own hands sometimes becomes an interesting activity, especially if the lid plus the handle is cast, it is impossible to undock from the electric kettle. Cause: The screws are under the edge of the door. Reluctantly think how the Chinese managed to collect the miracle of technology.

Guangdong products are well-known. China is rich in economic and other interesting areas that provide tax and some other concessions to manufacturers. The United States is not enthusiastic about the conflict with the heirs of communism, whom Nietzsche predicted the fate of a couple of centuries ago. Today we will see how to repair an electric kettle in China, made according to a standard design for a company that does not seek to reveal its true origin, with a probability of 95% being a representative of Eastern Europe, MB, Russian Federation. Let's see what our compatriots indulge in - the best examples of world household appliances pass the hands of the Guangdong workers.

China's GDP ranks second. Japan is the third. Not bad, considering the state of the Land of the Rising Sun, which survived the Second World War. Feudal Japan became the world's largest electronics manufacturer.

Below are photos that allow you to personally enjoy the views of the details of the simplest design. There will be links to the images in the text. If you want - look, you don't want to - scroll blindly. Disassembly begins with a lid. Skipping a step will not remove the side panel that hides the LED plus on / off switch. With the side panel on, it is more difficult to remove the bottom. Dilemma. Do the opposite, if you are looking for difficulties, then you can not remove the cover at all!

Video (click to play).

Lid. It is held by two ears with two pins. A plastic monolith, you are tortured to disassemble, installation is more difficult. The first photo shows the pins perfectly. There are two screws on the sides, unscrew immediately, remove the side panel. Everything is neat inside - plus models, we often find a whole mess of wires. We pass to the bottom.

There are three screws around the connector where the grounding lug is provided (the structure hangs in the air). We unscrew, we are convinced: the bottom hesitates to remove. There are six plastic teeth along the perimeter that fit into the six holes in the body. So that it does not accidentally fall apart, worn out by exploitation, there is a guide on the sides of each tooth. Alternately, the teeth will have to be snapped off with a screwdriver separately (see the photo below), if you break it, you will break the bottom by removing it. They took a picture of each tooth, illustrating what was said. We put the dismantled parts aside, look at the switch.

The photo shows from the bottom position. Shiny circle with a cut - mechanical sensor. Thanks to the bimetallic plate, seizing the moment, the electric kettle turns off. The water boils, an increased amount of steam begins to be released. There is a small hole in the housing located under the switch, covered with a circular loose plastic plug (see photo). The plate is installed above the gate of the couple. Boiling begins, the temperature rises sharply. After a moment, a click can be heard. The tongue of the plate, made up of a pair of metals, bends up sharply. It looks like a bimetallic relay.

Now the switch. Not so easy.The part is devoid of visible joints, except for the metal bracket shown in the photo on the side. The upper movable part is attached to it. When we turn on the kettle, the switch nose rests against the tongue of the round plate with a cutout, the bracket is compressed. Due to the design, the parts retain their initial position indefinitely. Click! The slightest jerk releases the bracket, which returns the switch to its original position.

Let's examine the bottom of the case. Here are:

• circular connector;
• rolled spiral;
• LED divider resistor with a nominal value of 14 kOhm.

While the switch is dormant, the LED glows blue. Full 230 volts applied. The photo shows available: the resistor was burnt, the contacts were inserted into the clamping terminals, one could not stand the inspection. I had to solder it. The divider resistor is connected in parallel with the rolled heater. The electric kettle turns on - the glow changes to orange. Dual LED (did the school teachers keep it quiet?), Unlike typical use, both shades work simultaneously while the water is boiling. The combination of electromagnetic waves of different shades gives orange. It is difficult to enumerate the shades that form a superposition (the repairman is deeply indifferent).

Remove the resistor, or it will burn out - nothing bad will happen. It's just that the LED will stop changing its hue, tracking changes in the switch position. The color is irrespective of the water temperature. It is easy to see that there is no thermal fuse. We believe that there is simply no protection. Those interested can equip a metal case with a part, next to the ring connector. Provide protection against empty switching. This kettle can cause fire without protection. We recommend adding a thermal fuse to the device. Place not somewhere in the center, around the perimeter of the heating element, increasing the reliability.

The resistance of the heating element is 30 ohms. The photo shows the power values ​​on a metal surface through a fraction of 220 and 240 V. Enough to understand what can break. The device of the electric kettle is simple, even a kettle can be repaired, but ... It was easy to remove the lid, but put it back! We hope the readers will solve the issue on their own, we find it difficult to answer. But we will show you how to disassemble the switch for those who want to clean the contacts. The distance of the gap is scanty, steam is in the air. Just look at the two screws in the picture: they are covered with rust, although the electric kettle has not been properly used.

We believe that six months later, the contacts will need to be refreshed. Let's analyze the switch:

1. Place your finger on the plastic ear that secures the switch to the case.
2. Use your thumb to push the button on the opposite side.
3. Gently squeeze your fingers, the retaining bracket will pop out. Protect more than the apple of your eye, otherwise the electric kettle will only have to be thrown away.

The assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Hook the bracket with the front of the button, rest it against the base, gently push the part into place without any extra effort. The bimetallic plate can be easily removed with a knife or screwdriver. Self-repair of electric kettles consists of such trifles, otherwise it will not take long to break the lid by putting it on! Contacts are made of bronze, can be seen in the photo. It is impossible to clean with alcohol, gasoline, there is plastic nearby. We suppose we'll have to get hold of acetic acid, the switch is waiting in line.

We'll have to disconnect the terminals. The Saturn model in question is not easy. The photo shows a small hole in the terminal, which corresponds to the spike of the second half. If you press there with an awl, the connection can be disassembled without problems. Otherwise ... I can't tear one from the other. The process is aggravated: the joints are protected by a heat-shrinkable cambric, which is poorly heated by a hairdryer. It crumbles easily, barely holds, but ... does not come off. Therefore, if necessary, cut, disassemble the unit. The clamping terminals are disposable. The wire of the resistor jumped out, it was not possible to squeeze it back, it is not convenient. I had to solder it.

Weld the plastic with a soldering iron. Along the way, using the necessary additives (polyethylene). Choose a material that is compatible with the food industry. Use heat-resistant glue, harmless to humans.

As the readers understood, this is one of the cheap models of Chinese teapots, made by order of a certain company. The maintainability of the product is zero. Difficult to disassemble, even harder to assemble. Poking around, it is easy to spoil the presentation, functionality. Donets dressed quite simply, with considerable effort, threatening clicks. The cover caused great difficulty. Skillful use of a hair dryer will help. With only a screwdriver, disassembly will be difficult.

We also recommend evaluating the assembly in the store. How difficult it will be to disassemble the device in order to repair the electric kettle with your own hands. If the product is disposable, it is not too happy, and if, in addition, it is dangerous ... no comment.

We hope that after such a detailed review, readers will be able to repair Tefal electric kettles and repair the Scarlet electric kettle. After all, most of the products are made in China. We want to say goodbye, see the pictures, evaluate, study. If the bimetallic plate is inserted in the wrong direction, the electric kettle will stop turning off when it boils! Although the click is audible.

Boiled water causes allergic reactions. It is difficult to name the percentage of people susceptible to the disease. Kashpirovsky considers half of the planet an aggravated reaction. Treats almost 100% of applicants. Some (impudent) are sent back. Let them try local hospitals.

The regulation of the immune system is poorly understood by science. A sane person who has known Quincke's edema will be careful not to reject the slightest possibility of cure.

The electric kettle has become an indispensable attribute of any kitchen and is the bestseller in comparison with other household appliances. This device is widely used both at home, in the kitchen and in the office. But unfortunately, like any electrical appliance, the kettle breaks down after a while. Since the price of this water heater is not too high, it is easier to buy a new one than to repair it. But if you consider yourself a home craftsman, or an apparatus for boiling water is dear to you as a memory, you can try to repair the electric kettle with your own hands.

An electric kettle works on a fairly simple principle, regardless of whether it is an expensive model or a budget one. At the bottom of the device there is a heating element connected to a thermostat, consisting of bimetallic plate... A tubular heater, when an electric current is applied to it, heats the liquid to a boil. When steam forms during the boiling process, it passes through a special channel to the thermostat, as a result of which the latter turns off the power supply.

If you look at the operation diagram of the device, you will notice that it works on the principle of an iron, and does not differ in the complexity of its design. But before you repair an electric kettle, there are always difficulties when disassembling the case, since the latches (holding the handle) are located differently for different models of units, in addition, the fastening screws can be with a head for a special screwdriver.

An electric kettle is a simple device that contains few elements that can fail. But still, there are common problems, among which the following can be distinguished:

• slow heating of the liquid;
• the device shuts down prematurely;
• the kettle does not turn off;
• the device does not turn on;
• burnout of the heating element;
• water leaks from the housing.

If you notice that the kettle does not heat up the water quickly, then pay attention to the condition of the heating element. Thick layer of limescale on it, formed due to insufficiently good maintenance of the unit, has poor thermal conductivity, which is why it takes more time to heat the water.If the scale is not removed, the heating element may burn out.

In addition, the entire contact group of the device suffers from overheating, as a result of which the contacts melt or burn out.

To get rid of limescale, you can use a regular citric acidsold in stores. It is enough to pour 1-2 bags of citric acid (20 grams each) into the tank, bring it to a boil and leave the heated solution in the container for 30 minutes. After that, the container must be thoroughly rinsed with running water to remove scale residues. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated.

This behavior of an electric water heater is explained by the fact that the device may turn off due to scale formed on the heating element. Since the heating element has a fuse against overheating, it works and breaks the electrical network. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to descale the heaters.

During the boiling of water in the vessel of the apparatus, the steam must be collected under the lid and directed through a special channel to the thermostat. If the lid is not closed tightly, then this does not happen, and the electrical appliance will work without shutting down. If everything is in order with the lid, check that the steam hole on the side of the handle is not clogged with limescale. In the case when everything is in order with the hole, it can be assumed that the kettle does not turn off due to breakdown of the thermostat.

The thermostat at the electric kettle is located at the bottom of the case, and in order to get to it for replacement, you will have to disassemble the device completely.

As an example, a conventional budget device was taken, which does not differ in design from more expensive models - an electric kettle Vitek, Tefal, Polaris, Scarlett and others. By the way, in this model, as in the Vitek VT-7009 (TR), the container is made of heat resistant glass... So, let's analyze the unit according to the following algorithm.

Repairing a kettle should start with disconnecting it from the mains... Next, remove the device from the stand (base) and unscrew all the screws on its bottom panel.

After that, it is necessary with special care to pry off the plastic cover on the handle using a thin screwdriver. This should be done carefully because in different models of devices the latches can be located in different places, and it is easy to break them.

Removing the trim reveals the mounting screws. They also need to be removed.

After unscrewing all fasteners, using light force, detach the handle with the cover from the body.

Next, detach the housing from the bottom of the unit.

At the bottom of the case, you will see all the main elements of the device: contact group, thermal relay and heating element.

But how to disassemble a Bosch kettle if, when you unscrew all the screws on the bottom, it cannot be removed? Those who disassembled such a device faced difficulties, which often ended in a breakdown of the device. Since the process is quite complicated to describe, it is better to watch a video on this topic.

There are various reasons why your boil machine will not turn on.

1. Faulty electrical cord and plug... To do this, you need to “ring out” the cord with the tester, touching the probes to the contacts of the plug and the contacts on the base (base). If a break is found, replace the cord with a new one.
2. Poor contact in the stand (base). From prolonged work, the contacts can burn, due to which their conductivity is disturbed. If fumes have formed on the contacts, they can be cleaned using fine sandpaper. But in the case when they are melted, they will need to be completely replaced.
3. Internal switch defective in the device.Since the switch has to experience quite large loads (from 1500 to 2000 W), its contacts can melt over time. This may cause the device to not work. The switch is located at the bottom of the handle, and in case of malfunction it looks as shown in the figure below.

In this case, the button must be replaced. But there is a malfunction of the button, in which you can fix the kettle with your own hands without replacing it. If you look at the button from the side, you can see 2 contacts, which in the “on” position close. If on them carbon deposits form, the device will not turn on.

To remove carbon deposits, you can use fine sandpaper, a nail file, or a thin file. To make it more convenient to do the stripping, you will need a small "revision" of the button, namely, removing the sides with a pair of nippers.

Another reason that the device does not want to work can be called malfunction of the mechanical power button... This breakdown is most often found in the Tefal vitesse model, since plastic slats are built into the handle of the electrical appliance, which transmit the translational movement from the outer button to the inner one located at the bottom of the unit.

After this part breaks, it becomes impossible to turn on the Tefal kettle. To understand in more detail how to repair an item that has broken, you can watch a video that describes one original way to fix a defect.

When repairing electric kettles, both old and newer, the most common breakdown is heating element burnout. The problem with heating elements arises, first of all, due to their overheating due to untimely descaling.

Before you repair a kettle with a disc heater or a heating element in the form of a spiral, it is necessary to disassemble the unit as described above. After that, take a tester and connect the test leads of the device to the output contacts of the heater. If the light on the device lights up, or it emits a sound, then the heating element can be considered serviceable.

How to check the heating element if no measuring device? It turns out to be very simple. It is necessary to connect zero from the mains to one contact of the heater, and a phase to the other. Next, insert a 220 light bulb into the socket, from which 2 insulated wires are taken out. Touch one stripped end of the wire to one contact of the heater and the other to the opposite. If the light is on, then the heating element is working properly.

If it turns out that the disc heater has burned out, then it cannot be replaced, since it is one piece with the bottom of the electrical appliance, such as in the Scarlett kettle, or Vitek VT-7009 (TR). Therefore, you will have to buy a new unit. Only open-type heating elements can be replaced.

If you notice that water is flowing (leaking) from the reservoir of the device, then it is recommended to use such a device for a while, until scale forms in the microcracks, which can block the seepage of liquid. If this does not help, then you will have to buy a new "boiler" if the warranty period has expired.

Another reason that the reservoir is leaking may be loose connection of the electric heater with the device body (if the heating element is open). In this case, you can tighten the fasteners holding it. If this does not help, then you will have to remove the heating element and change the rubber gasket, which is worn out.

Thus, we can summarize: in some cases it is quite possible to repair the unit for boiling water on our own. But if you do not have enough certain skills in the repair of household appliances, then the best option would be to buy a new kettle. Repair in a service center, from a financial point of view, does not justify itself, and there is no guarantee that the breakdown will not happen again.