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Jigsaws are usually easy to repair. The job is to replace the worn out part. To extend the service life of the equipment, it is necessary to follow the operating rules and carry out preventive maintenance. In case of more complex breakdowns, it is better to immediately contact the master.
KM wrote: If you bought a Makita after all, you would understand how easy it is to make straight cuts when you have a GOOD jigsaw at hand.
For such conclusions, a test is needed: the same material, the same cuts by one person with two devices alternately. Then, if 4324 really wins, then it will be possible to draw a conclusion that has already set the teeth on edge: "My Makita is better, because this is Makita!" Here are the people who write:
Samara wrote: I have a Makita 4324. I also learned to saw for a long time.
So a lot of things depend on the hands. Maybe you have them gold?
Berg wrote: For such conclusions, a test is needed: the same material, the same cuts by one person with two devices alternately.
And when will the other person get a diametrically opposite result? To do what?
In fact, you just need to feel when the file starts to turn and correct the position of the jigsaw at that moment. But all the same, fluctuations in the region of 0.5-1 mm on a cut with a length of one meter are inevitable. Although if there was a normal removal of sawdust, it could be possible to reduce it still.
Serg wrote: And when will the other person get a diametrically opposite result?
So it's in the hands, however.
Serg wrote: if there was a normal removal of sawdust, it could be possible to reduce it still.
I have excellent sawdust removal, they simply do not exist in the place of the cut and on the line. So I will work on myself.
Berg wrote: So it's in the hands, however.
Here one cannot but agree.
Berg wrote: I have excellent sawdust removal, they simply do not exist in the place of the cut and on the line. So I will work on myself.
Having straight arms, it is still impossible to cut directly with a bad jigsaw. Both the hands and the jigsaw should be straight.
But if the hands can be straightened with experience, then the jigsaw cannot.
Just with experience you understand that a jigsaw is not a curve, it just has features that can be easily taken into account. ... it's not a bug, it's a feature.
(WITH)
2Serg: In-in, when I bought Makita, I thought that she would cut for me herself
... And at the expense of hands, I do not quite agree, the head feels and draws conclusions through its senses, in! True, the almost complete absence of a vibro allows you to leave a working jigsaw on the table with a file in the cutting line, blow off the dust and check out the situation, or move it literally with two fingers for an especially accurate passage along the line. But the main thing is, unless of course the jigsaw is completely crooked, to feel exactly your jigsaw, how it behaves there when turning to the right, or to the left, when sawing plywood, wood, steel, duralumin, plexiglass, etc. STE intuitive creativity of pure water. I generally keep quiet about the properties of materials. Something like this, approximately.
Saw, Shura, saw, they are golden. (arms)
. Without hands, of course, nowhere. Also bought Skill, fell for this shnyaga. Well, nothing, it works. Sawed a lot of GVL - dust and files fly, but managed. Even more or less evenly managed to saw off the countertop into the kitchen - I trained for a long time - sawed off 2-3 cm "slats", but mastered, practically no revision was required, only sand lightly. And the file is better Boshevskaya. Vertical is better really in a square.
gena wrote: In Makita 4324, the tightening with a wrench, the adjustment is stepless, there are no backlashes.
I don’t understand anything, are there really no backlashes? I went shopping, felt this Makita - backlashes are everywhere like all cheap jigsaws. Damn, do they only get to Krasnoyarsk with a Chinese assembly? I touched 4340 - there really are no backlashes. Interestingly - there was a topic about the oil flowing from Makit, so I noticed: indeed, everyone's video is just filled with liquid oil. Maybe not to check the backlash with your finger?
)) Then you need to wipe it off.
Electric jigsaw Bosch PST 650
There is no need to talk about what an electric jigsaw is intended for. The topic will cover the main issues:
how the electric jigsaw motor works;
electric jigsaw diagram;
connecting an electric motor through a capacitor;
repair of the electric motor;
sharpening the jigsaw blade.
So, you have purchased an electric jigsaw and as a common cause for all power tools is the cause of the malfunction, both mechanically and electrically. Basically, such breakdowns can be attributed to various breaks in the electrical circuit, that is, to name the following characteristic causes of jigsaw breakdowns:
malfunction of the stator windings of the electric motor;
malfunction of the armature windings of the electric motor;
capacitor malfunction;
wear of graphite brushes;
wear of the electric motor manifold.
In general, there are five main causes of commutator motor malfunctions.
Minor causes of electrical faults include the following:
wire break in a network cable along its length; mechanical damage to the cable;
break in the mains cable wire at the base of the plug;
faulty contact connection in the plug
The device of an electric jigsaw is shown in a schematic diagram:
As with all power tools, it shows how to convert electrical energy into mechanical energy. On this score, it also makes no sense to talk about the transmission mechanism of this power tool.
What is the electric motor itself for this type of electric jigsaw?
Collector single-phase electric motor
As you understand, an explanation will be given to the collector motor used in electric jigsaws.
For a better understanding of this topic, the photograph shows an enlarged version of such an electric motor, which in its electrical circuit does not differ in any way from the electric motor used in electric jigsaws - connected to an external source of alternating voltage with one phase.
Collector motors are capable of operating from power sources:
direct current;
alternating current.
The electrical diagram in Fig. 1 shows a method for connecting in series two stator windings of an electric motor, followed by a connection: brush - collector.
In the next photo, an image of the stator windings of an electric motor is given - with three wire leads.
Why does the stator winding of the electric motor have exactly three wire leads? - You ask.
Two wire leads from the three stator windings of the electric motor are intended for connection in the electrical circuit of the working capacitor.
The capacitor in the electrical circuit in Fig. 2 has a connection between the beginnings of the leads of the wires of the two stator windings - working and starting.
When replacing a capacitor, it is taken into account:
capacity;
nominal voltage value.
Previously, before connecting the capacitor, it is specified - between which wires the display indicator of the device the multimeter will indicate the total value of the resistance of the two stator windings. It is this connection of the capacitor in the electrical circuit that will be correct.
A separate stator winding has its own resistance value. So for the starting winding - the resistance value will be greater than for the working winding.
Carrying out diagnostics both for the total total value of the resistance of the two stator windings and for each individual winding, it is possible to determine either the serviceability or the gap in the windings.
Figure 3 shows an image of the rotor of a collector single-phase electric motor. The ends of the rotor winding wires are connected to the collector plates.
The two rotor windings are connected in series with each other. Electrical contact with the rotor windings is made by connecting the graphite brushes to the rotor collector. The electric circuit of the electric motor is closed on two rotor windings.
To measure the resistance of two rotor windings, it is enough to connect two probes of the device, an ohmmeter, a multimeter with this measurement function to the contacts of the graphite brushes.
If the resistance indicator on the display of the device is zero during measurement:
two rotor windings;
two stator windings,
- from this it will follow that these constituent elements in the electrical circuit are unusable. The same applies if there is no resistance in the electric circuit of the electric motor.
The graphite brushes of the collector electric motor, when they are worn out, must be replaced. These parts, like others, are commercially available for each individual power tool.
Jigsaw blades
In order not to create an unnecessary load on the electric motor itself, the blade of this power tool must have a sharpened edge of the teeth.
The blade teeth are sharpened with the appropriate natfil. There are a wide range of needle file sets available on the market.
A set of needle files Bison with a clamping plastic handle
The blade is preliminarily clamped in a bench bench vise.
Locksmith table vise
As for the details of diagnostics for power tools, you can get more information by looking at this blog.
Among the hand tools used in the household, the jigsaw is the most popular. This is an electrically driven device designed to produce a curved cut.
Demand determines supply. The power tool market is represented by a wide range of both household and professional models from domestic and foreign manufacturers. Any equipment requires technical maintenance and repair if necessary.
Using examples of real breakdowns and methods for their elimination presented in this article, the user will learn about the repair of jigsaws from different manufacturers in general.
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The design of jigsaws from different companies is not much different. It consists of a body, a sole, a saw blade, a cutting tool mechanism, a gearbox and an electric motor that drives the working body of the tool.
The difference in the models of a particular manufacturer lies in the design features of some units. It is natural that the malfunctions and the reasons for their occurrence are also identical.
Knowing the most common power tool failures and the preventive measures to prevent them will help both the novice DIYer and the experienced professional.
Among the typical failures of electric jigsaws are:
Sawing curvature.
Change in shape or destruction of the support roller.
Breakage of the cutting tool attachment.
Damage to the gears of the reducer.
Destruction or bending of the support rod.
Broken teeth on the jigsaw collet.
Early wear of the armature worm gear.
The jigsaw is designed to make rough curved cuts, so it's not worth talking about the ideality of sawing. Although in models of hand tools from different manufacturers, this indicator is also different. When using cheap models, they don't pay much attention to this, and the cut turns out to be completely crooked. You need to deal with this in service centers, but you can try to get rid of the curvature at home.
The platter roller can break if you use poor quality saw blades or a blunt tool. Using the cutting tool in an inappropriate load condition. This could result in a jammed or sawn-off support roller.
To avoid such a problem, you need to use well-sharpened cutting blades of acceptable quality, observing the optimal cutting conditions and following the recommendations of the manufacturer.
As a rule, almost all models of jigsaws are equipped with a toolless saw blade fixation unit. This simplifies the process of changing the cutting tool. But the operation of the mechanism in conditions of constant dustiness leads to the ingress of wood chips into it, and this leads to the failure of the device.
In order to exclude a breakdown of the unit, it must be constantly cleaned of dust and lubricated with a special compound such as WD-40. During operation, it is necessary to use a vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the tool.
Failure of gearbox elements is the result of wood dust entering through the ventilation holes. Here, as in the previous case, you cannot do without a dust collector.
Breakage or bending of the support rod occurs during the careless use of the power tool. This can happen when it falls or unintentionally collides with the jigsaw body, directly the support rod with protruding elements of the machined surfaces.
Tooth decay on the collet of an electrically powered jigsaw can only occur through the fault of the performer. This is the result of an attempt to inadvertently tighten the not fully inserted cutting blade.
The armature worm gear will not last long if the cutting process is started before the tool motor reaches its optimum power. To prolong the life of the mechanism, do not start work before reaching full engine speed.
It is worth paying attention to the domestic production of the Interskol jigsaw. It is produced in Izhevsk. For domestic use, this is a perfectly acceptable option. It has many positive qualities, and the most impressive is its low cost. But there are also disadvantages.
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This is the curvature of the cut. What is the problem and can you get rid of it? The blame was the quick-release fastening of the file. The fact is that it is designed for the maximum saw blade thickness. All thinner cutting tools in the mount just dangle.
How to get out of this situation? It is necessary to replace the quick-release mount with a simple device with ordinary bolts. It is not difficult to make it. You need to take a square rod, cut off two blanks, drill holes in them and connect with two M5 bolts with nuts. The procedure for attaching the saw blade will be somewhat more complicated, but the tool will produce an even cut.
In addition, you can modify the very design of the tool and limit the movement of the file in the transverse plane.
take sheet aluminum and cut the plate to fit the sole of the jigsaw;
in the front part of the workpiece, it is necessary to make a cutout according to the size of the working area of the cutting tool. File all edges; make bevels on the inner longitudinal edges of the cutout;
from plexiglass, you need to cut a plate to the size of the working area of the saw blade. File all sharp edges and make reverse bevels on the outer longitudinal edges;
the aluminum plate must be marked for its installation on the sole of the jigsaw. Drill and chamfer holes for the installation of countersunk head screws;
a piece of plexiglass must be inserted into an aluminum plate, after having made a cut at the place of its position.
The saw blade will now be limited in lateral movement almost in the cutting zone during operation, which will give it even greater straightness.
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Another, no less popular manufacturer of domestic power tools, is the Smolensk company Diold. Electric jigsaws are distinguished by their low price and rather decent quality. For homework, this is a perfectly suitable budget option.
It also has points worth paying attention to. The first is the support roller. Over time, and this is about a year, it begins to lose its round shape. The reason is the material of the video or the technology of its production. It has insufficient hardness.
Its repair is to replace it. Still, it is better not to reinvent the wheel, but to purchase an original video from the manufacturer or take the tool to a service center, especially if it is under warranty.
If this option is not suitable or impracticable, then you can reanimate the jigsaw with the help of available tools. To do this, you need a regular M5 bolt with a nut. In this case, the bolt will serve as an axis, so you need to grind off the thread on it, and the nut with a roller, in it along the generatrix it is necessary to cut a groove along the thickness of the saw blade.
It is ideal to do this on a lathe, but you can also use a tool that is at hand, such as a drill and an angle grinder disc. The disk must be clamped in a vice, the bolt and nut - in the drill and cut into the groove. The repair option is not ideal, but it has the right to life, as it has been tested in practice.
Another nuance in using the Diold jigsaw is the ingress of wood dust into the start button. This happens due to the lack of tightness, and dust, getting inside the button, prevents the passage of current. The solution to the problem will be periodic, at least once a year, cleaning the contacts.
One of the best jigsaws on the world market are the models of the German company Metabo. Everything is good in him. High power, aluminum body, pendulum device. In addition, the tool is crammed with electronics, which allows you to customize the jigsaw to individual programs for each type of cut. And the cut is just perfect both in quality and straightness. The Metabo power tool is the best jigsaw today.
But not eternal. Breakdowns happen here too. The reasons can be very different. But as practice has shown, the weak point is mechanics. After significant loads, and in particular, cutting metal, it may fail.
Typically, the axle on the bearing bracket, arm and stem will not support. To restore the tool, it is better to purchase original spare parts, and assemble them at a service center by specialists.
When self-assembling the Metabo jigsaw, it is imperative to apply Castrol LMX grease to all rubbing surfaces with the addition of RiMET grease in a ratio of 3: 1.
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Consider another budget option for a jigsaw - the Crimean Fiolent. This is a perfectly acceptable model both in terms of price and quality. There are two problems in the operation of a jigsaw. This is a possible failure of the stem during improper handling of the tool and insufficient or illiterate lubrication.
In the first case, in order to avoid this damage, it is enough to carefully and carefully handle the tool. But if this does happen, you will have to replace the damaged stem. For this you need:
Remove the housing cover by unscrewing 4 screws.
Remove the rectangular washers and retaining rails from the stem.
Unscrew 4 bolts and remove mechanism cover. Below it is the flywheel and the stem itself.
Unscrew 2 screws each, remove the upper and lower stem holders. The latter is with a spring, so you need to clean it carefully.
Dismantle the destroyed stem with guide washers.
Lubricate the flywheel and eccentric with a special gear lubricant.
Put the guide washers on the new stem and install in place.
Attach the saw blade holder to the bottom of the stem.
Install the upper and lower holder, screw on the mechanism cover and install the washers and retaining rails.
Insert the cutting tool and test the jigsaw at idle speed and under load. If the check shows no abnormalities, install the housing cover.
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In the second case, everything is much more serious. It would seem, what is difficult about lubrication? But due to the fact that the tool constantly works in extreme conditions, the ingress of wood dust into the device cannot be avoided, it is necessary to carry out service work according to the intensity of operation, but at least once a year.
All mating parts and assemblies need to be lubricated. To do this, you need to disassemble the jigsaw. But if in the first case, for example, you limited yourself only to dismantling the stem, now we disassemble the tool completely and re-lubricate all the rubbing surfaces of the parts.
For lubrication, the manufacturer offers Litol 24, but it will not work in the jigsaw gearbox, due to its thick consistency, therefore, as a rule, it is lubricated with oils. You can combine Litol 24 with Feol 2U graphite grease in a ratio of 3: 1.
However, it should be borne in mind that now the fluidity of the lubricant mixture is higher, and after some operating time, it will begin to get into the engine rotor. The reason for this is left-hand drive. When the rotor rotates, the lubricant mixture is captured by the teeth and is fed to the rotor like a screw. The oil separator installed inside the motor housing does not fulfill its function. In theory, it should throw away the incoming mixture, but in practice this does not happen. This is evidence of the imperfection of the design proposed by the manufacturer.
To avoid this problem, some work needs to be done. Or rather, put the oil separator not inside, but outside the motor housing. At the same time, in order for the oil separator snail to work and discard oil, it is turned over.
One more nuance.The bore diameter is Ø 9 mm, and the diameter of the outer part of the oil separator is Ø 9.2 mm - it ideally blocks the passage for the lubricant mixture. But when installing it, you need to apply a certain effort and a nozzle in the form of a pipe of a suitable size.
In addition, it is advisable to install a dust washer on the rear bearing of the armature. It will protect it from wood dust and extend its service life.
After that, you need to assemble the oiled jigsaw and test it for performance. After 10 hours of operation, the tool should be checked for grease penetration into the motor housing. If everything is done correctly, then such an option is excluded.
And of course Bosch. The power tool of this manufacturer is distinguished by the high quality of components, assembly and a long service life, provided that it is treated with care. He also has a drawback - the price. Moreover, both the product as a whole and the spare parts are expensive.
It should be noted that the Bosch tool practically does not break, but there are some nuances that appear during long-term use. For example, wear on the brushes of the electric motor, failure of the speed controller or the device for holding the saw blade. There are accidents and more complicated ones, failure of a rod or an anchor, but this is, rather, from incorrect handling.
As in the case of Metabo, Bosch jigsaws are best repaired at service centers. There they will install original spare parts and give a guarantee for the repair performed. But this is an expensive pleasure.
After reading the article, the user gained theoretical knowledge about jigsaw failures. Now, in the event of a breakdown, he will be able to determine the cause and make the right decision, and maybe even perform minor repairs.
Video (click to play).
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