DIY power saw repair

In detail: DIY repair of power saws from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Electric saw Makita UC4030A with a 5-meter cord (Fig. 1). I bought it to make it easier to work in the country, as I was tired of sawing dry trees. She showed herself excellently, with the exception of the oil supply system, but more on that later.

Rice. 2-5. We flip the flag of the tire fastening screw, slightly loosen the tire with it, then loosen the chain with the tensioner screw, then unscrew the sprocket cover with the tire fastening screw and remove the cover, and then the tire with the chain.

Rice. 6,9,10. We unscrew the two screws securing the engine, on the other side it is necessary to unscrew two more screws, having previously removed the cover of the oil tank for convenience, After that, we disconnect the engine from the gearbox.

Rice. 11, 13 Remove the lock washer from the sprocket shaft, then the washer and take out the sprocket.

Rice. 14, 15. Unscrew the 6 screws securing the handle and the toothed stop and remove them.

Rice. 16. Turn the gearbox over and remove the cover.

Rice. 17, 19, 20. Pull the tube off the oil pump, take out the oil tank, press the chain brake lever towards the braking side until it clicks, then remove it.

Rice. 21-26. We turn the gearbox over and remove the aluminum cover along with the driven shaft. And there we see that there is little lubrication in the gearbox, but there is a lot of sawdust, but it should be the other way around. It is clear with sawdust, the aluminum lid adjoins the plastic body only at three points, therefore there are three slots between the lid and the body, through which sawdust flies in and grease escapes. On the driven gear, lubrication is only on the periphery, and the drive gear is generally dry.

Rice. 27, 28. We clean all the parts of the gearbox.

Video (click to play).

Rice. 29, 30, 31. We take out the pump plunger and the pump itself.

Rice. 32. Taking the pump by both sides with our hands, we try to rotate both parts in different directions, while pulling one out of the other. The pump should disconnect.

Rice. 33. Now it's pump time. Examine all parts carefully. The ball and spring should be free to pull out, the rubber ring should be where it is in the picture. My ball bit the ring in the square (left side) of the pump because of a small step in the body. The pump is the most moody part of the saw. For some, he pours oil, for others, he does not pump at all. This topic was discussed on the site's forum. If the oil is pouring, then the ball is to blame. You need to put more. Or pour the oil thicker. If not pumping, then grabbed air. The pump does not like air very much due to the fact that there is only one check valve. If there is air in the tube, the plunger will drive it back and forth. There is an exit. It is necessary either to create excess pressure in the oil tank (by mouth, pump) so that the oil itself pushes the air, or to create a vacuum in the outlet channel after the pump using a syringe. The latter method works well.

Rice. 34.35.36. You need to make sure that the brake mechanism is in the braking position, if not, then put on the lever and move it to the front position until it clicks. In this position, the tension of the spring is minimal and you can pry it off with a screwdriver, but preferably with gloves. We take out the spring and rods.

Rice. 37, 38. Unscrew the screw and remove the brake band.

Rice. 39. We remove the tube from the tank.

Rice. 40-44. To eliminate the gap between the lid and the body, I found a washer with a bent edge along the diameter of the body, cut out the technological holes and grooves, screwed the washer to the lid. The places where the stops protrude through the washer are covered with sealant.

Rice. 45. Apply some lubricant to the pinion gear. I squeezed out half of the tube. When the sealant hardens, I will smear it on the gear and, if it is necessary, I will add more.One hell, centrifugal force will scatter in the corners.

Rice. 46, 47. Remove the drive gear from the motor shaft. We take out the brushes.

Rice. 48. Unscrew 6 screws on one side and one on the other.

Rice. 49-51. Remove the cover. The motor rotor is pulled out with little effort.

The assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

Dismantling the electric chain saw

The design component of an electric chain saw is presented in the form of a protective shield, which is a saw brake. The protective shield is triggered during a sharp throwback of the tool in this case, if an unsuccessful contact with the sawing object occurs. It should also be noted that when disassembling, it is imperative to take into account a special container through which, with the help of a filter, oil is supplied to the chain, created for automatic lubrication. Most models have an adjustable lubrication intensity for workflow with different hardness materials. Some models anticipate a special adjustment.

During disassembly, the electric motor is first disconnected, and in the forthcoming one and the rest of the working part, which is presented in the form of a chain resting on the bus with teeth attached together by means of hinges. The chain is presented in the form of adjusted thickness and sharpening of teeth. Such a feature is needed first so that it does not jam during the working process. In an unpleasant case, slippage may occur, and there may even be a stopper, which can very badly affect the engine itself.

Therefore, if you carry out disassembly electric saw for any repair or maintenance work, then especially for the long working process of the machine, you need to select a suitable oil liquid, also track its level and sharpen the blade at the right time during operation.

The brake in the saw will podkubit a little, but the owner refused to replace it. VK: Group:.