Do-it-yourself 15m dream electric stove repair

Electric stove DREAM 15 M circuit switch replacement

Change the left switch first, then the right

We will definitely change all burnt fastons

the diagram shows a 1200 watt burner

there are also 1000 watt burners resistance of spirals

Ohmmeter reading when connected to a mains plug

will be 1- 200 ohm 2- 120 ohm 3- 80 ohm 4- 50 ohm

when switching the oven 1-40 ohm 2- 75 ohm 3- 75 ohm 4- 150 ohm

resistances may differ by 1-3 ohms allowed by GOST

Electric stove DREAM 15 M scheme

Temperature regulator WY 320-653-21F2

Krasnoyarsk repair of electric furnaces t. 8 902 918 93 34

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Today, the popularity of household appliances powered by electricity is constantly growing, but minor breakdowns sometimes occur during operation. The electric stove is present in every modern kitchen - it is the heart of this space. When a kitchen assistant fails, many home craftsmen are interested in whether it is possible to repair an electric stove with their own hands?

Firstly, a home craftsman who decides to repair an electric stove on his own must at least understand electrical appliances, know the elementary fundamentals of electrical engineering and safety rules when carrying out this type of work. Secondly, you need to be sure that you can perform such a complex repair, and most importantly, find and eliminate the root cause of the breakdown. Third, it is necessary to prepare special tool.

When dismantling electric stoves, you will need screwdrivers for various purposes: for a cross or slot, with different thicknesses, the so-called tip specialists. You will definitely need keys - open-end and capscrews, pliers, wire cutters. For internal work in the body of the product, a soldering iron, side cutters, an insulating tape and, of course, a special device for measuring voltage and resistance are useful.

The photo shows only an approximate set of the necessary tools - during work, the assortment of the tools used tends to significantly expand.

The electric stove looks very impressive - it is a complex household appliance, but its design is quite simple, and all the main working elements are in a special heat-resistant housingwhich is made of stainless steel.

The principle of operation is similar to all electrical household appliances: the current, passing through heating elements (TEN), heats them to a predetermined temperature. The stove has several burners on the hob, and their number varies: at least two, and the standard is 4. For example, the budget Mechta 15M electric stove has only two burners and a small oven, and the product of Belarusian engineers Hephaestus has a standard set of burners and a voluminous oven.

Burner structure quite varied. Classics are burners on an enameled hob with heating elements inside, modern ones are solid ceramic surfaces with heaters of various types built into them. Let's consider the main types of burners.

1. Old domestic options are equipped with products cast iron, they slowly heat up and also cool down, creating a steam effect in the kitchen, but they are resistant to moisture and high temperatures.
2. Tubular spirals - they are made from a hollow tube, when heated, such devices not only give off heat, but also promote the circulation of warm air inside their case, which significantly increases their efficiency. These products are very difficult to repair yourself.
3. Hotplates ceramic they are very simple in design, they are easy to repair at home - the nichrome spiral is placed in special cells in a circle and fixed. In modern models, glass-ceramic solid plates are increasingly used - they are more durable and easy to clean.
4. Halogen devices - these are special burners with a similar emitter, which are installed in different places on the hob. A stove with such burners provides quick heating, in a second, and low energy consumption, so they are the most economical, but only professional craftsmen can repair them.

All models of modern stoves to transfer current to the burners use power wire special section, in addition, they are connected to regulators and thermostats, ensuring their protection against overheating.

In different models, the heating level is controlled in different ways: by manually changing the cooking mode or special timers and alarms that control.

During the operation of electric stoves, users may encounter such typical malfunctions.

1. Sometimes when the product is turned on, burning smell - it is necessary to turn off the stove and inspect the burners, on which the remains of burnt food could remain, which can be easily removed. When there is a smell of burnt plastic or rubber, then you need to call the master.
2. The heating element does not heat up - here is the fault of the burner or the connecting wires, but first you need to check the controls, maybe the contact has gone away.
3. Impossible adjust the optimal temperature heating the hotplate - it is necessary to repair the switch.
4. The hotplate does not heat up - if you have a spiral inside, then it often ruptures from overheating or moisture ingress. In this case, it is very easy to repair the electric stove - replace the spiral, that's the whole repair.
5. The oven is not working well - it is necessary to ring the heating elements, in 100% it is their fault, replacement is required, since they are not being repaired.

Attention! If the electric stove was connected independently, then not a single service will do repairs for free - you have lost the right to warranty service.

The process of finding equipment failure does not depend on the model of the product and the type of hob or the burners installed on it.

First, using a voltmeter, you need to check the voltage. Do not exclude the possibility of the circuit breaker being triggered, the insulation of the wiring may be broken or the reason lies in the outlet... If so, then it is necessary to disassemble it, and clarify the reason.

If the indicator lights up on the control panel, and the stove does not work, then there is no power supply to the burners, which means that you need to disassemble the stove.

The correct operation of the mechanical or electronic control unit should be checked - measure the current flow to the burner terminals with the device.

Check the heating element of each burner to find a burned-out coil.

Inspect all thermal sensors, relays and various regulators.

Our task is to find a malfunction and localize the resulting problem. After following all the recommendations, you will find the reason for the failure of the equipment, and we will tell you how to fix it a little later.

Models of slabs are different not only in external shape, but also in size, design - it is impossible to describe a disassembly algorithm that will fit all products. Common factor for all is the presence of a thermal insulation layer - here you need to work with him very carefully. Users should be aware that the asbestos dust of the gaskets under the burners in older models is very harmful to health - keep this fact in mind when disassembling archaic stoves.

initially the hob is dismantled - it is fastened with screws, if you unscrew them, then it can be easily removed. Under it are the burners, supplying wires to them and mechanical temperature regulators, which are located on the front panel.

All this must be dismantled in order to get to the lower part, where the heating elements of the oven are located.

At a modern electric hob with a hob made of glass ceramics disassembling the case for repair will be different - in order to get inside, you just need to remove the top panel.

Important! Repair of glass-ceramic hobs is carried out only by specialists of the service center - amateurs with superficial knowledge and lack of experience are better off not touching such complex equipment.

Below are the common breakdowns of electric cookers. Some of them can be fixed by yourself, others require professional diagnostics and repair.

If you have a stove with burners, then in order to change them, you need to act according to this method.

1. We unscrew the nut and remove the grounding.
2. There may be a ring or bracket under it that presses the part to the base.
3. The burner is fastened with a threaded connection or simply inserted into a special hole. In the first case, we lubricate the thread with oil and carefully try to unscrew it from the case, in the second case, we pry it with a screwdriver and take it out.
4. If the model is of the old model, then it is better to immediately replace the burned-out burners with modern and economical models that are suitable in size.
   
5. If the burners are in good working order, then the reason for the failure lies in control unit - a large current flows through the mechanical regulators, and carbon deposits can form on delicate contacts, which are cleaned with fine sandpaper.

Here's a step-by-step guide on how to repair or replace a switch on an electric cooker.

1. If there are no clicks when turning the regulator, this indicates that it is defective.
2. There is an original check of its condition: we put the regulator in the middle position, apply voltage to the stove, the automatic protection should work - turn on and off after 30 seconds.
3. Before removing the handles, you must study the instructions - on some models they do not understand (Gefest, Kaiser).
4. First, the control knobs are removed from the outside, then we unscrew the front panel.
5. A bar is installed under it, which must be removed in order to get to the broken regulator.

If the click is inaudible when the relay is turned on, then it is necessary to check for the presence of a signal - if it is absent, the reason lies in the microprocessor itself or in the cascade at the output. To repair an electronic unit, you need to have a schematic diagram and understand the complexities of radio engineering... If there is no knowledge and skills, then it is better to turn to specialists - otherwise you will have to buy a new electric stove.

Modern electric stoves on heating elements quite often use a cascade-type burner thermostat.

Sometimes there is a breakdown of such a regulator, for which an identical replacement can be found. Experienced masters advise to install triac type such a device, you just need to take it with a margin of power and current strength. In some models, it is installed on one board along with a heatsink. When the burner of the stove is operating at maximum, and the heating control cannot be changed, this indicates that it was the regulator that failed for an unknown reason - it urgently needs to be replaced.

Each user should understand that modern household appliances are crammed with electronics, each model has its own, different from others, nuance of manufacturing and control - mechanical or electronic. Outside interference without special knowledge and skills can negatively affect the delicate filling of electric stoves.

If you have a simple stove with burners on an enameled hob, then you can repair it on your own by watching the video:

The other day, I had to deal with the repair of the Dream electric stove, more precisely, with the repair of the oven of this product.

According to the stories of the owners of this miracle, the stove periodically lives its own life, then one burner does not work, after a while it starts working, but the other does not react. The oven diligently fed her household for the New Year holidays, and at Christmas she flatly refused to bake a goose. In this state, I found her. On turning on the oven, the stove reacted only with the illumination of the oven, to give heat, and even more so to bake pies, she categorically refused.

Arriving on a call, I did not particularly prepare for the global repair of the Dream 12-03 electric stove (by the way, the principle of disconnection with other models is similar). He took with him a travel box with the necessary tools and went to the application.

A cursory examination of the main electrical connections of the cooker yielded no results. Everything was in place and in a very satisfactory condition. OK. Lack of quick results is also a result. Then I went along the standard chain from the power input distribution terminals. In the course of the chain, I checked the thermostat of the Dream electric stove - without any complaints, and slowly but surely following the visual scheme, I got close to the power switch PM-16-5-01.

The fact that zero did not pass through it, I realized right away, but I did not remove the switch, nor did I solve the puzzles of the zigzags of the five-speed switch, deciding to be prepared and creatively approach the process.

As well as detecting a malfunction of the Dream electric stove oven from a swoop, I could not find a connection diagram for this miracle of technology. But I found it more important, the operating modes of the five-pin power switch. With regards to the scheme of the Dream electric stove, the issue was resolved as follows. Although visual, and most importantly before me, I had a diagram that was not violated by anyone, but having made a request to the manufacturer, to my surprise, I quickly received an answer, and then a wiring diagram of an electric stove Dream 12-03, for which special thanks to the manager Natalia, from this production.

Armed with the circuits, I made a second attack on the repair of the electric oven Miracle Cooker Dream.

My initial assumptions were confirmed, the malfunction was hidden in the oven mode switch, and more specifically, two contacts from heating "floated" to the side, and the contact plates had a reddened appearance from overheating. Verdict - the power switch of the Dream oven modes, for replacement.

But, since in our city, there were no such switches available, only on order, at the request of the owners of the stove "to do at least something", the outgoing contacts were restored to their place by heating, and the contact surfaces themselves were cleaned of carbonization with alcohol, (fortunately, their surface was not damaged by burning).

Alternatively, for the temporary working capacity of the PM-16-5-01 power switch and others from the same series, if the "burnt" contact is deformed by temperature and does not close the contact plate, it can be bent. It will not be possible to do this locally, but by removing the contact group from the case, having previously pulled out the contact jumper holding it (indicated by the arrow in the photo), it is possible to bend it.

At the same time, taking into account the temperature deformation and weakening of the metal, take the bending angle by 20 degrees more than the adjacent working contacts. Before installing the switch on the Dream electric stove, make sure that, according to the operating modes, the "treated" contact closes the group, and in other modes there is a visible break.

It is difficult to give a guarantee for such a repair of the Dream electric stove, but until the arrival of a new power switch, it will definitely last.

At the end of my description of repairing an electric stove, I will lay out all the diagrams that I managed to find on the network and those that were sent by the manufacturer (by the way, in my case, the actual installation was different from the factory diagram).

Scheme of contact groups of the power switch PM-16-5-01

This is how the oven switch itself (and the burners) of the Dream electric stove looks like:

Electrical diagram of an electric stove with a Dream oven (although it is two burners, but the wiring of the oven switch is the same.

Wiring diagram of electrical connections of the electric stove Dream 8

Wiring diagram of electrical connections of the electric stove Dream 12-03

Electrical diagram of a two-burner stove with an oven model "Dream 221Ch"

And just in case, suddenly someone wants to read:

If you have any questions about repairing the Dream electric stove, write to the mail: - I will definitely answer and help in any way I can.

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          Repair of electric stoves DREAM

          

          As you know, the repair of the plate is carried out to eliminate malfunctions that occurred during transportation, storage and operation, and consists in replacing individual failed component parts of the plate. The DREAM cookers are structurally simple enough, although the spare parts (except for the burners) are very specific.

          Consider the main malfunctions of the DREAM plates, the reasons and methods of elimination.

          1. The lamp of the light signal armature of the DREAM plate does not light up, the electric burner does not heat up.

          Cause of malfunction: Open circuit, electric burner out of order

          It is necessary to find and repair an open circuit. Replace the hotplate.

          2. The lamp of the light-signaling fittings does not light up, the electric burner of the DREAM cooker heats up.

          Cause of malfunction: the light-signaling armature is out of order.

          It is necessary to replace the light-signaling fittings.

          3. The oven (oven) of the DREAM electric stove heats up unevenly.

          Most likely one of the heating elements burned out or an open circuit. Therefore, you need to find an open circuit. Replace ten.

          4. The oven does not heat up when the oven is switched on.

          The reason is a malfunction of the thermostat or an open circuit in the electrical circuit. The problem is solved by replacing the thermostat or eliminating the open circuit.

          5. The oven is on, but the oven light is off.

          Usually this is due to the fact that the backlight has burned out, but the cartridge may also burn out. Replacing the light bulb or socket will solve this problem.

          The general requirements for dismantling are as follows:

          - disconnect the stove from the electrical network;

          - determine the place of repair and the procedure for dismantling;

          - prepare the necessary tool

          

          Diagram of fastening the door of the oven plate DREAM

          Removing the control cabinet door cooking plate DREAM produce in accordance with Figure 1, for which it is necessary:

          a) open the door of the roasting cabinet 3;

          b) install the technological stops 2 into the holes of the hinge strips 1;

          c) close the door of the roasting cabinet 3; at the same time, by moving the lower part of the door towards you, remove it from the axes of the door of the frying electrical cabinet 4 and the brackets of the hinged assemblies 5 (direction of arrow B);

          e) pull the door of the frying cabinet 3 upwards from the hinge strips 1 (arrow direction A).

          To install the door of the frying cabinet 3 in the reverse order according to Figure 1. When installing the door of the oven 3, make sure that the axes of the oven door 4 are precisely aligned with the slots of the brackets of the hinged assemblies 5.

          Replace parts of the oven cabinet door in accordance with Figure 5.

          Replacing the heating element-burner (stove 442T, 15M, 29 M, etc. with heating elements) (see Figure 2):

          

          a) unscrew the two screws securing the top hob on the side of the front of the hob, and also loosen the two screws on the back of the top hob;

          b) install the technological stop, lift the top panel;

          c) disconnect the conductors from the heating element, unscrew the nut securing the ground wire, disconnect it from the heating element;

          d) bend the burner springs welded to the burner pan, pull it out of the top plate;

          e) remove the crosspiece of the burner;

          f) loosen the threaded connection (screw, nut), pull out the heating elements.

          g) install a working heating element-burner.

          Reassemble in reverse order.

          Replacing the cast iron electric burner (stove with cast iron burners), (see Figures 3):

          

          a) unscrew the four screws securing the block-plate;

          b) unscrew the fastening screws, remove the rear upper wall;

          c) unscrew the nut, disconnect the ground wire of the cast iron electric burners from the cord bracket assembly;

          d) disconnect the conductors from the cast iron electric burners, remove the block-plate;

          e) unscrew the nut from the central stud of the cast iron electric burner and disconnect the ground wire;

          f) unscrew the cast iron electric burner fastening nut, remove the traverse and the cast iron electric burner;

          g) install a working cast iron electric burner.

          Reassemble in reverse order.

          Power Switch Replacement (see Figures 4):

          

          a) perform the operation in accordance with a) 3.5, move the block-plate;

          b) unscrew the screws securing the control panel with the frame brackets, detach the control unit from the frame

          c) disconnect the wires from the faulty power switch and remove the handle;

          d) unscrew the screws securing the power switch with the control panel;

          e) install a working power switch.

          Reassemble in reverse order.

          Replacing the thermostat (see figure 4):

          a) perform operations in accordance with a), b) clause "Switch replacement";

          b) remove the upper rear wall, unscrew the six screws securing the upper rear wall to the frame;

          c) open the door of the roasting cabinet and remove the baking sheet and wire rack

          d) unfasten the washer of pressing the thermostat tube to the frying electrical cabinet, pull out the thermostat cylinder from the frying electrical cabinet;

          e) disconnect the conductors from the faulty thermostat and remove the handle;

          f) unscrew the screws securing the thermostat to the control panel;

          g) install a working thermostat.

          Reassemble in reverse order.

          Replacement of light-signal fittings (Figure 4):

          a) perform operations in accordance with a), b);

          b) disconnect the conductors, remove the fittings and replace with a suitable one. Reassemble in reverse order.

          Replacing the connecting cord (Figure 8):

          a) remove the upper rear wall, unscrew the six screws securing the upper rear wall to the frame;

          b) remove the clamp from the connecting cord, unscrew the two screws;

          c) by unscrewing the nuts securing the veins of the connecting cord, remove it;

          d) install a serviceable connecting cord. Reassemble in reverse order.

          Replacing the backlight lamp for the oven cabinet (Figure 2.7):

          a) unscrew the six screw fastening of the upper rear wall to the frame, remove the upper rear wall;

          b) replace the faulty backlight lamp.

          Reassemble in reverse order.

          Replacing the lamp holder for the backlight of the frying cabinet (see Figures 2.7);

          a) unscrew the six screws securing the upper rear wall to the frame, remove the upper rear wall;

          b) unscrew the backlight lamp and disconnect the wires from the cartridge;

          c) unscrew the upper part of the cartridge from the lower one or two turns, remove the cartridge from the bracket and replace it.

          Reassemble in reverse order.

          Replacing the upper n lower heating element of the frying electrical cabinet (see Figures 2.7):

          a) perform operations in accordance with a), b)

          b) unscrew the fastening screws, remove the side profile and the side wall from the right side;

          c) disconnect the wires from the heating element;

          d) remove the wire from the frying electrical cabinet and unfold the thermal insulation;

          e) bend the clamps, replace the heating element.

          Reassemble in reverse order.

          Replacing the rear heating element of the electrical cabinet for the frying (Figure 2.7):

          a) perform operations in accordance with items a, b), c) 3.11 and 3.12;

          c) bend the clamps, replace the heating element.

          Reassemble in reverse order.

          Replacement of the upper and lower heating elements of the roasting cabinet (see pictures 2.7):

          a) perform operations in accordance with a), b) 3.7 and 3.12;

          b) unscrew the fastening screws, remove the side profile and the side wall from the right side;

          c) disconnect the wires from the heating element;

          d) remove the wire from the frying electrical cabinet and unfold the thermal insulation;

          e) bend the clamps, replace the heating element.

          Reassemble in reverse order.

          Replacing the rear heating element of the roasting cabinet (Figure 2.7):

          a) perform operations in accordance with items a, b), c) 3.11 and 3.12;

          c) bend the clamps, replace the heating element.

          Reassemble in reverse order.

          1 - Internal panel (PE 12-06.13.110)

          2- Outer glass (PE 12-06.13.200)

          5- Spring nut (PSh .02.002)

          Electric stove connection diagram.

          Note: on the electrical connection diagrams, the colors of the conductors are marked: B - white, C - blue, K - red

          We offer your review for self-repair electrical circuits of electric stoves!

          Presented are plates of Russian and foreign production, which have not changed for years.
          To enlarge the view, click on the picture.

          The main elements and assemblies of the stove: heating element E1 (in the first burner), E2 (in the second burner), E3-E5 (in the oven), a switching unit consisting of switches S1-S4, thermal relay F type T-300, indicators HL1 and HL (gas-discharge to indicate the operation of the heating element), HL3 (incandescent type to illuminate the oven). The power of each heating element is about 1 kW

          To adjust the power and degree of heating of the heating element of the frying cabinet, a 4-position switch S1 is used. When you set its knob to the first position, contacts P1-2 and P2-3 will close. In this case, the following will be connected to the network using a plug: TEN E3 in series with TEN E2 and E3 connected in parallel. The current will flow along the path: lower contact of the plug XP, F, P1-2, E4 and E5, E3, P2-3, upper XP plug contact. Since the heating element E3 is connected to the heating element E4 and E5 in series, then 38 the resistance of the circuit will be maximum, and the power and degree of heating are minimal. In addition, the neon indicator HL1 will glow due to the passage of current through the circuit: lower contact of the plug XP, F, P1-2, E4 and E5, R1, HL1, upper contact XP.

          Connecting nodes Dream 8:

          In the second position, contacts P1-1, P2-3 turn on. In this case, the current will flow through the circuit: the lower contact of the XP plug, F, P1-1, E3, P2-3, the upper contact XP. In this situation, only one heating element E3 will work and the power will be higher due to a decrease in the total resistance with a constant mains voltage of 220V.

          In the third position of the switch S1, contacts P1-1, P2-2 will close, which will lead to the connection to the network only of the heating elements E4 and E5 connected in parallel. Switch S4 is used to turn on the HL3 lamp for the oven backlight.

          H1, H2 - tubular burners, H3 - cast iron burner 200mm, H4 - cast iron burner 145mm, P1, P2-stepless power regulators, P3, P4-seven-position power switches, PSh - three-stage oven switch, P5-blocking switch, L1 .... L4 - signal lamps for switching on the burners, L5 - signal lamp for switching on the oven or grill heaters, L6 - signal lamp for reaching the set temperature in the oven, H5, H6 - oven heaters, H7 - grill, T - thermostat, B - key switch, L7 - oven lighting lamp, M - gear motor.

          6. BURNER SWITCHES Combustion, Hansa, Electra, Lysva:

          Message transfor »13 Aug 2015 14:35

          Message transfor »13 Aug 2015 14:48

          Message Vlad1989 »13 Aug 2015 17:52

          Message transfor »13 Aug 2015 18:20

          The main elements and assemblies of the stove: heating element E1 (in the first burner), E2 (in the second burner), E3-E5 (in the oven), a switching unit consisting of switches S1-S4, thermal relay F type T-300, indicators HL1 and HL (gas-discharge to indicate the operation of the heating element), HL3 (incandescent type to illuminate the oven). The power of each heating element is about 1 kW

          To adjust the power and degree of heating of the heating element of the frying cabinet, a 4-position switch S1 is used. When you set its knob to the first position, contacts P1-2 and P2-3 will close. In this case, the following will be connected to the network using a plug: TEN E3 in series with TEN E2 and E3 connected in parallel. The current will flow along the path: lower contact of the plug XP, F, P1-2, E4 and E5, E3, P2-3, upper XP plug contact. Since the heating element E3 is connected to the heating element E4 and E5 in series, then 38 the resistance of the circuit will be maximum, and the power and degree of heating are minimal. In addition, the neon indicator HL1 will glow due to the passage of current through the circuit: lower contact of the plug XP, F, P1-2, E4 and E5, R1, HL1, upper contact XP.

          For the “Dream” electric stove, you need to purchase a tubular electric heater with a single-ended heating element 67 - 14 / 1.0 T220 with a spiral type burner. In principle, a heating element of this type of any modification should be suitable for the tile in your picture.

          The electric stove must be disconnected from the mains.

          Here is a diagram for replacing the heating element, which clearly shows how the burner of the Dream stove looks in disassembled form:

          The heating element on this tile has a free play (for easy cleaning of the case under it), lift it up slightly and remove the crosspiece under the heating element from under it (pos. 5).

          We turn the tile over and disassemble.

          We visually inspect the structure for damage to the wires, their insulation, carbonization, we check the operation of the switch and the reliability of the connections.

          If possible, we eliminate damage, isolate, clean up, tighten the connections. Everything is fine.

          Before disconnecting the wires from the heating element, mark them in order to avoid mistakes when connecting a new heating element.

          Disconnect the wires from the old heating element (pos. 1).

          Unscrews the threaded connection of the clamp (pos. 2) the screw and nut (pos. 6 and 7) fastening the heating element, at the same time the ground wire is also disconnected.

          In the reverse order, insert the new heating element into the mounting sleeve (item 3), into the bowl (item 4), connect the ground and tighten the clamp, connect the wires to their places. We collect the tiles. Everything.

          Video (click to play).

          If you have an “autometer” available and you still doubt the correct connection, then it is better to check the resistance on the plug with an “autometer” at different positions of the heating mode switch: in the zero position, the circuit is open, there is no resistance, in the first position the resistance of the burner should be about 200 ohms, in the second about 120 ohms, in the third about 80 ohms, in the fourth about 50 ohms.

          

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