homeThe bestDo-it-yourself dream 29 electric stove repair
Do-it-yourself dream 29 electric stove repair
In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the dream 29 electric stove from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Electric stove DREAM 15 M circuit switch replacement
Change the left switch first, then the right
We will definitely change all burnt fastons
the diagram shows a 1200 watt burner
there are also 1000 watt burners resistance of spirals
Ohmmeter reading when connected to a mains plug
will be 1- 200 ohm 2- 120 ohm 3- 80 ohm 4- 50 ohm
when switching the oven 1-40 ohm 2- 75 ohm 3- 75 ohm 4- 150 ohm
resistances may differ by 1-3 ohms allowed by GOST
Electric stove DREAM 15 M scheme
Temperature regulator WY 320-653-21F2
Krasnoyarsk repair of electric furnaces t. 8 902 918 93 34
The other day, I had to deal with the repair of the Dream electric stove, more precisely, with the repair of the oven of this product.
According to the stories of the owners of this miracle, the stove periodically lives its own life, then one burner does not work, after a while it starts working, but the other does not react. The oven diligently fed her household for the New Year holidays, and at Christmas she flatly refused to bake a goose. In this state, I found her. On turning on the oven, the stove reacted only with the illumination of the oven, to give heat, and even more so to bake pies, she categorically refused.
Arriving on a call, I did not particularly prepare for the global repair of the Dream 12-03 electric stove (by the way, the principle of disconnection with other models is similar). He took with him a travel box with the necessary tools and went to the application.
A cursory examination of the main electrical connections of the cooker yielded no results. Everything was in place and in a very satisfactory condition. OK. Lack of quick results is also a result. Then I went along the standard chain from the power input distribution terminals. In the course of the chain, I checked the thermostat of the Dream electric stove - without any complaints, and slowly but surely following the visual scheme, I got close to the power switch PM-16-5-01.
Video (click to play).
The fact that zero did not pass through it, I realized right away, but I did not remove the switch, nor did I solve the puzzles of the zigzags of the five-speed switch, deciding to be prepared and creatively approach the process.
As well as detecting a malfunction of the Dream electric stove oven from a swoop, I could not find a connection diagram for this miracle of technology. But I found it more important, the operating modes of the five-pin power switch. With regards to the scheme of the Dream electric stove, the issue was resolved as follows. Although visual, and most importantly before me, I had a diagram that was not violated by anyone, but having made a request to the manufacturer, to my surprise, I quickly received an answer, and then a wiring diagram of an electric stove Dream 12-03, for which special thanks to the manager Natalia, from this production.
Armed with the circuits, I made a second attack on the repair of the electric oven Miracle Cooker Dream.
My initial assumptions were confirmed, the malfunction was hidden in the oven mode switch, and more specifically, two contacts from heating "floated" to the side, and the contact plates had a reddened appearance from overheating. Verdict - the power switch of the Dream oven modes, for replacement.
But, since in our city, there were no such switches available, only on order, at the request of the owners of the stove "to do at least something", the outgoing contacts were restored to their place by heating, and the contact surfaces themselves were cleaned of carbonization with alcohol, (fortunately, their surface was not damaged by burning).
Alternatively, for the temporary working capacity of the PM-16-5-01 power switch and others from the same series, if the "burnt" contact is deformed by temperature and does not close the contact plate, it can be bent. It will not be possible to do this locally, but by removing the contact group from the case, having previously pulled out the contact jumper holding it (indicated by the arrow in the photo), it is possible to bend it.
At the same time, taking into account the temperature deformation and weakening of the metal, take the bending angle by 20 degrees more than the adjacent working contacts. Before installing the switch on the Dream electric stove, make sure that, according to the operating modes, the "treated" contact closes the group, and in other modes there is a visible break.
It is difficult to give a guarantee for such a repair of the Dream electric stove, but until the arrival of a new power switch, it will definitely last.
At the end of my description of repairing an electric stove, I will lay out all the diagrams that I managed to find on the network and those that were sent by the manufacturer (by the way, in my case, the actual installation was different from the factory diagram).
Scheme of contact groups of the power switch PM-16-5-01
This is how the oven switch itself (and the burners) of the Dream electric stove looks like:
Electrical diagram of an electric stove with a Dream oven (although it is two burners, but the wiring of the oven switch is the same.
Wiring diagram of electrical connections of the electric stove Dream 8
Wiring diagram of electrical connections of the electric stove Dream 12-03
Electrical diagram of a two-burner stove with an oven model "Dream 221Ch"
And just in case, suddenly someone wants to read:
If you have any questions about repairing the Dream electric stove, write to the mail: - I will definitely answer and help in any way I can.
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Repair of electric stoves DREAM
As you know, the repair of the plate is carried out to eliminate malfunctions that occurred during transportation, storage and operation, and consists in replacing individual failed component parts of the plate. The DREAM cookers are structurally simple enough, although the spare parts (except for the burners) are very specific.
Consider the main malfunctions of the DREAM plates, the reasons and methods of elimination.
1. The lamp of the light signal armature of the DREAM plate does not light up, the electric burner does not heat up.
Cause of malfunction: Open circuit, electric burner out of order
It is necessary to find and repair an open circuit. Replace the hotplate.
2. The lamp of the light-signaling fittings does not light up, the electric burner of the DREAM cooker heats up.
Cause of malfunction: the light-signaling armature is out of order.
It is necessary to replace the light-signaling fittings.
3. The oven (oven) of the DREAM electric stove heats up unevenly.
Most likely one of the heating elements burned out or an open circuit. Therefore, you need to find an open circuit. Replace ten.
4. The oven does not heat up when the oven is switched on.
The reason is a malfunction of the thermostat or an open circuit in the electrical circuit. The problem is solved by replacing the thermostat or eliminating the open circuit.
5. The oven is on, but the oven light is off.
Usually this is due to the fact that the backlight has burned out, but the cartridge may also burn out. Replacing the light bulb or socket will solve this problem.
The general requirements for dismantling are as follows:
- disconnect the stove from the electrical network;
- determine the place of repair and the procedure for dismantling;
- prepare the necessary tool
Diagram of fastening the door of the oven plate DREAM
Removing the control cabinet doorcooking plate DREAM produce in accordance with Figure 1, for which it is necessary:
a) open the door of the roasting cabinet 3;
b) install the technological stops 2 into the holes of the hinge strips 1;
c) close the door of the roasting cabinet 3; at the same time, by moving the lower part of the door towards you, remove it from the axes of the door of the frying electrical cabinet 4 and the brackets of the hinged assemblies 5 (direction of arrow B);
e) pull the door of the frying cabinet 3 upwards from the hinge strips 1 (arrow direction A).
To install the door of the frying cabinet 3 in the reverse order according to Figure 1. When installing the door of the oven 3, make sure that the axes of the oven door 4 are precisely aligned with the slots of the brackets of the hinged assemblies 5.
Replace parts of the oven cabinet door in accordance with Figure 5.
Replacing the heating element-burner (stove 442T, 15M, 29 M, etc. with heating elements) (see Figure 2):
a) unscrew the two screws securing the top hob on the side of the front of the hob, and also loosen the two screws on the back of the top hob;
b) install the technological stop, lift the top panel;
c) disconnect the conductors from the heating element, unscrew the nut securing the ground wire, disconnect it from the heating element;
d) bend the burner springs welded to the burner pan, pull it out of the top plate;
e) remove the crosspiece of the burner;
f) loosen the threaded connection (screw, nut), pull out the heating elements.
g) install a working heating element-burner.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Replacing the cast iron electric burner (stove with cast iron burners), (see Figures 3):
a) unscrew the four screws securing the block-plate;
b) unscrew the fastening screws, remove the rear upper wall;
c) unscrew the nut, disconnect the ground wire of the cast iron electric burners from the cord bracket assembly;
d) disconnect the conductors from the cast iron electric burners, remove the block-plate;
e) unscrew the nut from the central stud of the cast iron electric burner and disconnect the ground wire;
f) unscrew the cast iron electric burner fastening nut, remove the traverse and the cast iron electric burner;
g) install a working cast iron electric burner.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Power Switch Replacement (see Figures 4):
a) perform the operation in accordance with a) 3.5, move the block-plate;
b) unscrew the screws securing the control panel with the frame brackets, detach the control unit from the frame
c) disconnect the wires from the faulty power switch and remove the handle;
d) unscrew the screws securing the power switch with the control panel;
e) install a working power switch.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Replacing the thermostat (see figure 4):
a) perform operations in accordance with a), b) clause "Switch replacement";
b) remove the upper rear wall, unscrew the six screws securing the upper rear wall to the frame;
c) open the door of the roasting cabinet and remove the baking sheet and wire rack
d) unfasten the washer of pressing the thermostat tube to the frying electrical cabinet, pull out the thermostat cylinder from the frying electrical cabinet;
e) disconnect the conductors from the faulty thermostat and remove the handle;
f) unscrew the screws securing the thermostat to the control panel;
g) install a working thermostat.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Replacement of light-signal fittings (Figure 4):
a) perform operations in accordance with a), b);
b) disconnect the conductors, remove the fittings and replace with a suitable one. Reassemble in reverse order.
Replacing the connecting cord (Figure 8):
a) remove the upper rear wall, unscrew the six screws securing the upper rear wall to the frame;
b) remove the clamp from the connecting cord, unscrew the two screws;
c) by unscrewing the nuts securing the veins of the connecting cord, remove it;
d) install a serviceable connecting cord. Reassemble in reverse order.
Replacing the backlight lamp for the oven cabinet (Figure 2.7):
a) unscrew the six screw fastening of the upper rear wall to the frame, remove the upper rear wall;
b) replace the faulty backlight lamp.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Replacing the lamp holder for the backlight of the frying cabinet (see Figures 2.7);
a) unscrew the six screws securing the upper rear wall to the frame, remove the upper rear wall;
b) unscrew the backlight lamp and disconnect the wires from the cartridge;
c) unscrew the upper part of the cartridge from the lower one or two turns, remove the cartridge from the bracket and replace it.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Replacing the upper n lower heating element of the frying electrical cabinet (see Figures 2.7):
a) perform operations in accordance with a), b)
b) unscrew the fastening screws, remove the side profile and the side wall from the right side;
c) disconnect the wires from the heating element;
d) remove the wire from the frying electrical cabinet and unfold the thermal insulation;
e) bend the clamps, replace the heating element.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Replacing the rear heating element of the electrical cabinet for the frying (Figure 2.7):
a) perform operations in accordance with items a, b), c) 3.11 and 3.12;
c) bend the clamps, replace the heating element.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Replacement of the upper and lower heating elements of the roasting cabinet (see pictures 2.7):
a) perform operations in accordance with a), b) 3.7 and 3.12;
b) unscrew the fastening screws, remove the side profile and the side wall from the right side;
c) disconnect the wires from the heating element;
d) remove the wire from the frying electrical cabinet and unfold the thermal insulation;
e) bend the clamps, replace the heating element.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Replacing the rear heating element of the roasting cabinet (Figure 2.7):
a) perform operations in accordance with items a, b), c) 3.11 and 3.12;
Note: on the electrical connection diagrams, the colors of the conductors are marked: B - white, C - blue, K - red
We offer your review for self-repair electrical circuits of electric stoves!
Presented are plates of Russian and foreign production, which have not changed for years. To enlarge the view, click on the picture.
The main elements and assemblies of the stove: heating element E1 (in the first burner), E2 (in the second burner), E3-E5 (in the oven), a switching unit consisting of switches S1-S4, thermal relay F type T-300, indicators HL1 and HL (gas-discharge to indicate the operation of the heating element), HL3 (incandescent type to illuminate the oven). The power of each heating element is about 1 kW
To adjust the power and degree of heating of the heating element of the frying cabinet, a 4-position switch S1 is used. When you set its knob to the first position, contacts P1-2 and P2-3 will close. In this case, the following will be connected to the network using a plug: TEN E3 in series with TEN E2 and E3 connected in parallel. The current will flow along the path: lower contact of the plug XP, F, P1-2, E4 and E5, E3, P2-3, upper XP plug contact. Since the heating element E3 is connected to the heating element E4 and E5 in series, then 38 the resistance of the circuit will be maximum, and the power and degree of heating are minimal. In addition, the neon indicator HL1 will glow due to the passage of current through the circuit: lower contact of the plug XP, F, P1-2, E4 and E5, R1, HL1, upper contact XP.
Connecting nodes Dream 8:
In the second position, contacts P1-1, P2-3 turn on. In this case, the current will flow through the circuit: the lower contact of the XP plug, F, P1-1, E3, P2-3, the upper contact XP. In this situation, only one heating element E3 will work and the power will be higher due to a decrease in the total resistance with a constant mains voltage of 220V.
In the third position of the switch S1, contacts P1-1, P2-2 will close, which will lead to the connection to the network only of the heating elements E4 and E5 connected in parallel. Switch S4 is used to turn on the HL3 lamp for the oven backlight.
H1, H2 - tubular burners, H3 - cast iron burner 200mm, H4 - cast iron burner 145mm, P1, P2-stepless power regulators, P3, P4-seven-position power switches, PSh - three-stage oven switch, P5-blocking switch, L1 .... L4 - signal lamps for switching on the burners, L5 - signal lamp for switching on the oven or grill heaters, L6 - signal lamp for reaching the set temperature in the oven, H5, H6 - oven heaters, H7 - grill, T - thermostat, B - key switch, L7 - oven lighting lamp, M - gear motor.
For the “Dream” electric stove, you need to purchase a tubular electric heater with a single-ended heating element 67 - 14 / 1.0 T220 with a spiral type burner. In principle, a heating element of this type of any modification should be suitable for the tile in your picture.
The electric stove must be disconnected from the mains.
Here is a diagram for replacing the heating element, which clearly shows how the burner of the Dream stove looks in disassembled form:
The heating element on this tile has a free play (for easy cleaning of the case under it), lift it up slightly and remove the crosspiece under the heating element from under it (pos. 5).
We turn the tile over and disassemble.
We visually inspect the structure for damage to the wires, their insulation, carbonization, we check the operation of the switch and the reliability of the connections.
If possible, we eliminate damage, isolate, clean up, tighten the connections. Everything is fine.
Before disconnecting the wires from the heating element, mark them in order to avoid mistakes when connecting a new heating element.
Disconnect the wires from the old heating element (pos. 1).
Unscrews the threaded connection of the clamp (pos. 2) the screw and nut (pos. 6 and 7) fastening the heating element, at the same time the ground wire is also disconnected.
In the reverse order, insert the new heating element into the mounting sleeve (item 3), into the bowl (item 4), connect the ground and tighten the clamp, connect the wires to their places. We collect the tiles. Everything.
If you have an “autometer” available and you still doubt the correct connection, then it is better to check the resistance on the plug with an “autometer” at different positions of the heating mode switch: in the zero position, the circuit is open, there is no resistance, in the first position the resistance of the burner should be about 200 ohms, in the second about 120 ohms, in the third about 80 ohms, in the fourth about 50 ohms.
Thanks to such a versatile energy as electricity, the popularity of electric stoves is growing. This site has an article on how to connect an electric stove, and this page describes common problems, methods of identifying and eliminating them.
In many cases, a home craftsman or an ordinary user can make repairs to the electric stove with his own hands, without resorting to expensive specialist services.
Electric cooking
Regardless of the model of the electric stove and the type of burners used, the identification of the cause of the failure of the electric stove should be carried out according to the following algorithm:
Check with a voltmeter for the presence of a supply voltage (it is possible that the circuit breaker on the stove connection line has tripped, the wiring is damaged, or the outlet is faulty;
Make sure that the plug and the power supply cord are in good working order - the glow of the control lamp or electronic indication on the control panel automatically excludes this malfunction;
The task of any repairman is localize the problem... Having gone through this algorithm step by step, you can repair the electric stove with your own hands, having a small set of tools available and having limited knowledge in electrical engineering.
The most important condition on which not only the successful repair of the electric stove depends, but also the safety of the master and those around him, is knowledge of the basics of electrical engineering and electrical safety. You also need confidence in your abilities - some measurements will have to be made with the voltage turned on.
From the tools for disassembling the body of the electric stove, you will need screwdrivers with suitable tips, perhaps a set of keys, pliers. For work inside the case, depending on the detected malfunction, you will need a soldering iron, wire cutters, electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.
Repair tool kit
Sometimes it is possible to identify a problem only by visual inspection (carbon deposits on the contacts, or a soldered wire). But, practice shows that in most cases it is impossible to repair an electric stove without measuring instruments.
Inspect the connections to the terminals
The most acceptable would be to use a multimeter - a multifunctional measuring device, which should be used by any master dealing with electrical engineering. In some cases, you can get by with a voltage probe and a homemade continuity from a light bulb and a battery.
If the mains voltage is normal, and the stove suddenly stops working after switching on, then it is worth checking the outlet itself - perhaps it does not correspond to the power, or the contacts are worn out, and they spontaneously bend during the heating process.
There are cases that in electric stoves with mechanical regulators and burner power switches, the control lamp burned out long ago, and the stove itself stopped working properly much later. At this stage, without starting to disassemble the case, it is possible to identify a malfunction in the switches, including various burners and switching modes their work.
The two burners of the electric stove do not work
If it is found that some of the heaters are working, albeit not at full capacity, then the malfunction of the power cord can be excluded, and you need to look for problems in the switches or in the spirals of the burners.
It is unlikely that all burners will burn out at the same time (although this is possible if all heaters were running during a power surge). Therefore, if there is no reaction to manipulation of the switches, the voltage may not be supplied to the controls.
Since electric stoves and hobs come in a variety of shapes, sizes and designs, there is no way to describe them all in one article, so the user must independently figure out how to disassemble the case. But common to all types of electric stoves is the presence of thermal insulation and it is necessary to work with it very carefully.
Various designs of electric stoves
If the thermal insulation layer of the electric stove is significantly damaged, its energy efficiency will decrease, as well as the readings of the temperature sensors will change, which will entail the stove's malfunctioning in the future.
It must be remembered that it is necessary to work with glass wool thermal insulation only with thick gloves, and the asbestos dust of the thermal insulation gaskets of old electric stoves is harmful to health.
Having disassembled the body of the electric stove, it is necessary to study the internal structure of the equipment, determine the type of regulators, switches and heaters. It will be very handy to have in stock plate layout... But even without a circuit, knowing the basics of electrical engineering, you can understand the heater control system and identify the problem.
Attention, the following verification methods are contrary to the user's instructions, which prohibit turning on the electric stove when the case is disassembled, so you should be very careful!
If the electric cooker does not work at all, you should check for the presence of voltage at the input of the switches or the electronic control circuit. Imported electric stoves with an electronic control unit are vulnerable to power surges, and very often problems in them are not related to damage to the heating elements.
Electronic control unit for electric stove
If the power cord is OK, and the voltage is on, and the display does not light up, then the internal fuse of the electric stove control unit may have blown. But the indication of a working display does not always guarantee its performance - perhaps there was a breakdown in the power switching relays.
The most accessible way to check the control unit is to check the voltage supply to the terminals of the burner heaters. If the voltage comes in, but the heating element does not heat up, then you need to disconnect the electric stove from the outlet, then disconnect the terminals from the heating elements and ring them.
Checking the supply of voltage to the terminals of the coil of the burner
It will be safer if you first attach special crocodile clips to the terminals of the heating elements, which are put on the measuring probes, and then apply voltage. If only part of the burners is working, then it will be more expedient to ring the heaters first, and only then look for an open circuit in the power circuit. It must be remembered that heating elements can have several coils - the heating power is regulated by the way they are connected together.
If a burnout of the filament or a breakdown on the case is detected, the damaged heating element should replace.
If the stove is old, then it is worth replacing the burned out heaters with more advanced and economical ones. The best electric heaters have proven themselves for electric stoves.
If the continuity of the spirals did not reveal any malfunctions in them, then the cause should be sought in the control unit. As already mentioned, heating elements can have several built-in coils, which are switched using switches or electronic relays.In both cases, a large current flows through the contact groups, from which carbon deposits form on them.
Switch for operating modes of the electric stove
Let's say the heating element of an electric stove has two spirals: C1 and C2. For their switching, a three-position switch with three contacts can be used: K1, K2, K3.
Connection diagram of a heating element with two coils
When K3 is turned on, both spirals are connected in series and will work at half their capacity. When K2 is turned on, the C1 spiral will heat up at full strength. The maximum heating will be obtained with the simultaneous closure of K1 and K2 - two spirals will be connected in parallel. All other possible options are meaningless and should be excluded by the switch design itself.
To fix such a switch, you need to disassemble it and get to the contacts to clean them with sandpaper or a thin flat file. You also need to check the tension of the hold-down springs and the fit of the contacts. Cleaning the surfaces, tightening the springs, and bending the contacts will help fix the problem.
A similar switching function in electric stoves with an electronic control unit is performed by electromechanical relays. If, when the mode is selected, the operation of the relay is audible, and the voltage does not change at the output, then the fault is in them. For example, to switch the modes of a hotplate with three spirals, you need four relays or a corresponding switch.
Connection diagram for a hotplate with three spirals
To ensure the versatility of the heating disc, the built-in coils have different power, and accordingly their resistance is different. More details about checking and connecting such burners are shown in the video:
In the absence of a characteristic click of the relay, ring its coil and check for the presence of a control signal. In the absence of a control signal, a breakdown may be in the output stage or in the microprocessor of the electric stove. To independently repair the electronic control unit, you must have its circuit at hand and have knowledge of radio engineering.
But, as shown in the video, if a faulty relay is found, owning a soldering iron and having an identical replacement, you can independently carry out a similar repair of an imported electric stove or hob.
For heating elements and disk heaters of electric stoves, it is often used stepless power regulator... In old domestic slabs, a regulator on bimetallic plates was used, which reacts to the flowing current. In addition, a temperature sensor or thermostat can be installed that reacts to the heat of the heating element.
Electric hob heating thermostat
In such systems, heat generation is controlled by alternately turning on and off the electric stove heater when the temperature is lower or higher than the range set by the regulator. You can get acquainted with the operation and connection of such a regulator by watching the video below:
In case of failure of such a regulator, an identical replacement can be found. But it will be more expedient to install a modern power regulator based on a triac (it works like a dimmer for a lighting system).
Since the triac power control is carried out by changing the shape of the sinusoidal voltage (cutting off part of the half-wave), almost any regulator designed for a given power and current, but taken with a reasonable margin, will do.
Triac power regulator
In some electric stoves, the triac is installed together with a heat sink on the board. If the burner is operating at full power and the heating does not adjust, then the transition in the triac is broken, and it must be replaced.
If there is no current at the output of the electronic regulator, you should check the sawtooth bias voltage at the control electrode of the triac when the electric stove is switched on.This test is carried out with an oscilloscope, which is available in special workshops and some masters with deep knowledge of radio engineering.
Sometimes the electronic control unit is OK, but reacts to incorrect readings of the thermal sensors of the heating control system. You need to find out the type of sensor, study its properties and test methods in order to exclude this option for an electric stove malfunction. It is also possible that the mechanical timer breaks down, the contacts of which are also susceptible to corrosion and oxidation.
The material in this article will help the user independently find the cause of the breakdown of the electric stove. If the problem is in a burned-out burner, mode switch or power regulator, then no special skills are required to carry out self-replacement. But, in case of a breakdown of the electronic control unit, then due to the complexity of the repair, it is better to take it to the workshop.